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THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


THREE    YEARS 


IN 


THE    PACIFIC; 


INCLUDING 


NOTICES    OF 


BRAZIL,  CHILE,  BOLIVIA,  AND  PERU. 


BY 
AN  OFFICER  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  NAVY. 

"  Comme  a  mes  chers  amis  je  vous  veux  tout  conter." — Corndlle. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 

CAREY,  LEA  &  BLANCHARD. 
1834. 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1834, 

BY  CAREY,  LEA  &  BLANCHARD, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office,  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  in 

and  for  the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


1'KINTKD  II Y  LTDIA  11.  BAIIKY,  NO.  26  5TOIITII  FIFTH  STRF.KT. 


TO 


FRANCIS  H.   GREGORY,  ESQ. 

COMMANDER  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  NAVY; 


AS 

A  SLIGHT  TRIBUTE 

TO 

HIS  TALENTS  AS  AN  OFFICER,  AND  HIS  VIRTUES  AS  A  MAN, 

THIS   WORK 

IS    RESPECTFULLY    INSCRIBED, 

BY    HIS    FRIEND, 

THE  AUTHOR. 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 
Introductory — Getting  under  way — Getting  to  Sea,    -  9 

NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Entrance  to  Rio  de  Janeiro — The  Sugar  Loaf — Glance  round  the  harbor 
— The  Corcovado — Gldria  Church — The  City — Praya  Grande,        -  17 

CHAPTER  II. 

Walk  in  the  streets  of  Rio — Imperial  Chapels — Rua  Direita — Slaves — 
Rua  d'Ouvidor — Marimba — Abdication  of  Dom  Pedro — Regency  of 
Pedro  II., 23 

CHAPTER  III. 

Museum — Aqueduct — Banana  tree — Farinha — Policemen — Slave  of  a  na- 
turalist— Casa  da  Agua, 36 

CHAPTER  IV. 
The  Opera — The  Currency, 42 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  Botanic  Garden — A  Peep  at  Court, 46 

CHAPTER  VI. 

A  walk — A  ride — A  dinner  party, 52 

CHAPTER  VH. 

Architecture — Cries — Market — Churches — Cemetery  of  San  Francisco 
de  Paula — Funerals — Climate — Prison — Slave  market — Library — News- 
papers,   60 

CHAPTER  VHI. 
Geography  of  Brazil — Products — Diamond  Mines,     ....  65 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Departure — Voyage  round  Cape  Horn — Cape  Pigeons,     ...  72 


V1I1  CONTENT^ 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Arrival  at  Valparaiso — Bay — Appearance  of  the  place — Landing — Town 
— Market — Scenes  in  the  street — Costume — Oraci6n — Plaza — Cries — 
Beggars, 81 

CHAPTER  II. 

Society — Introduction  to  a  Family — Costume — Furniture — Mate- — Sing- 
ing— Cigars — Presenting  of  Flowers — Leave-taking — Traits  of  Charac- 
ter— A  day  visit — Anecdote — Tertiilia  on  a  Sunday  evening — Dancing 
—  "El  cuando"— " La  Perdi'z"— Foreign  Society,  ...  92 

CHAPTER  in. 

Ride  to  Santiago — Mode  of  Travelling — Peonada — The  honey  palm — Car- 
r£tas — Mode  of  descending  hills — Peiiuelas — Throwing  the  lazo — A 
bivouac — Casablanca — Posada — Mode  of  making  butter — Bread — Cu- 
esta  de  Zapata — Bustamente — Breakfast — Cuesta  del  Prado — A  view — 
Entrance  to  Santiago — Custom  house  officers — Table  of  Barometric 
observations, 107 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Fonda  Ingl6sa  and  inmates — Fonda  del  Comercio  and  Fonda  de  la  Nacion 
— Site  of  Santiago — Description  of  the  city — Its  founding — Plaza — 
Shops — Book  stores — Dead  bodies  exposed  before  the  prison  early  in 
the  morning — Siesta — Shopping  at  night — Ladies — Costume,         -         125 

CHAPTER  V. 

Tajamar — Military  Academy — Militia  System — San  Liines — Alameda — 
An  evening  visit — Card  playing — National  Institute — Schools — Socie- 
dad  Filarm6nica — Otavario — Procession — Praying  for  rain — State  of 
medicine  and  pharmacy, 133 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Visit  Colina — Law  of  primogeniture — A  senator — A  family  dinner — Face 
of  the  country — Ploughing — Sowing — Baths — Friar  of  San  Feh'pe — 
Don  Jose — Return  to  Valparaiso — Storm  on  the  road,     -         -         -         143 

CHAPTKR  VII. 

Coquimbo  bay — La  Serena — Salute — Balsas — The  Port — Commerce — 
Condor:* — The  City — Distress  by  drought — Society — Trade,  •         152 


CONTENTS.  IX 


NOTICES  OF  BOLIVIA. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Bay  of  Mexillones — Cobija — Soil — Landing- — Balsa — Town — Old  trees — 
Scarcity  of  water — Commerce — Visit  to  the  copper  mines — Catfca,         163 

CHAPTER  H. 
Historical  sketch  cf  Bolivia — Its  productions — Coca,  ...         174 

—••»«©»*«— 

NOTICES  OF  PERU. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Callao  Bay — Island  of  San  Lorenzo — Entering-  Callao — Castles — Ancient 
defence  of  Callao — Town  of  Callao — Market — Water — The  Mole — Re- 
mains of "  Old  Callao," 181 

CHAPTER  II. 

Ride  to  Lima — The  Road — Monument — Bellavista — Treasure — Church 
of  Palms — Market  women — Tambo  de  la  Legua — Church — Negroes 
dancing — Mules  and  asses — Alameda  de  la  Portada — Meet  a  pleasure 
party — Lima  gate — Entrance  to  the  city — Animas — First  view  of  "the 
street  of  Callao," 190 

CHAPTER  III. 
History  of  the  founding  of  Lima, 200 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Topography  and  climate  of  Lima — Plan  and  divisions  of  the  city — Walls 
— Distribution  of  property — Population — Religious  communities,  203 

CHAPTER  V. 

Plaza — Portales — Palace — Cathedral — Archbishop's  palace — Fountains 
— The  Plaza  by  day,  and  by  night — Segarreros — Picantes — Barquillos 
—Ice, 212 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Saya  y  Manto — Scenes  in  the  street — Police — Market — Cherimoya — Pal- 
ta — Granadilla— Cafes, 220 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Convent  of  St.  August; n — Monastery  of  La  Incarnacion — Convent  of  San- 
to Domingo — Negros  Bozales — Convent  of  San  Francisco — Our  Lady 
of  Mercies — San  Pedro — Library — Churches — Bells — Inquisition — Mu- 
seum— University  of  St.  Mark — Hall  of  Deputies — Charities — Hospitals,  229 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VIH. 
The  Cathedral — The  Sagrario — Oracion — The  B6veda — Death  of  Pizarro 
— His  interment, 247 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Morning  visits — A  family — Conversation — Difficult  for  foreigners  to  enter 
society — Female  education — Ignorance  of  Geography — Provincialisms 
— A  tertiilia — Monte  al  <lao — Use  of  Tobacco — Morale  of  Lima  society 
— Habits  of  the  ladies — A  good  trait  in  the  Lima  character — Gambling,  262 

CHAPTER  X. 

Sunday  in  Li  ma — Hooks — Mache>o — Misturas — PucherodeFlores — Street 
of  peril — Scene  on  the  Alameda — Cock-pit — Theatre,    ...         275 

CHAPTER  XI. 
Bull-bait — Plaza  del  Acho, 283 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Nacimientos — Christmas  Eve — Christmas — Ride  to  Chorillos — Saltead6res 
— Bathing — Harbor  of  Chorillos — Callao — La  Presidenta — Carnival — 
Miraflores — Magdalena, 293 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
St.  John's  day — Amancaes, -        300 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Dia  de  Santa  Rosa — Birth-day  customs — Life  of  Santa  Rosa,       -         -         305 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Day  of  All  Saints — Pantheon — Responsos — Mode  of  burial — Obsequies — 
Collecting  alms  for  masses — Day  after  All  Saints — Funeral  expenses — 
A  patriotic  curate — Rapacity  of  curates — Cofiadia  or  burying  company 
—  Marriage  ceremony — Marriage  fees — Difficult  for  foreigners  to  marry 
in  Peru — Clandestine  marriage, 312 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Influence  of  priests  over  society — Perpetual  light — Priests  rule  families — 
Confession — Penances — Money  paid  for  expiation  of  sin — Nove'nas — 
Superstition — Preaching — Bulas  de  Cruzada — Character  of  the  clergy 
— Notions  about  religious  toleration — Supremacy  of  the  Pope — "Car- 
tas Peruanas," 321 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Arica — Appearance  from  the  Anchorage — Mole — Advertisements — 
Stn  <  is — School — Water  and  provisions — Ancient  Cemetery — Found- 
ing of  Arica—  Population— Products— Commerce — Guano,     -         -         338 


CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Islay — Landing  place — Town — Arequipanian  ladies — Post-office  regula- 
tion— Notions  of  the  captain  of  the  port  about  politics,  -         -         345 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Pisco,  from  the  anchorage — Landing — Ancient  Pisco — Town — A  ride — 
Salinas — Commerce — Captain  of  the  Port, 353 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Guarmey — Ferrol — Samanco — Nepeiia, 358 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Santa — Bathing — A  prison  scene — An  execution,       -  369 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
Huanchaco— Balsas— Landing— Port— Road  to  Truxillo— The  Grand  Chi- 
mu,  and  his  war  with  the  Incas—  City  of  Truxillo — "El  Quipos  del 
Chimu" — A  nunnery  and  a  nun — Pacasmayo — Spinning — Ride  to  San 
Pedro — A  Governor — A  Colonel — Hospitable  reception,         -         -         379 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Lambayeque  Roads — Derivation  of  the  name  of  the  Pacific — Landing — 
San  Jose — Balsa — Ride  to  Lambayeque — Plaza — The  Capiis,  a  dress 
worn  previous  to  the  Conquest — A  curious  currency — The  Church — 
A  morning  visit — Chichaiias — Huacas — Chicha — Gourds — Indians — 
Town — Products — Visit  Chiclayo — Factoria  de  Tobacos — Soap  making 
— Tanning — Palm  Sunday — Return  to  Lambayeque — Passion  week — 
Scenes  at  the  Chicharfa  and  Billiard  room — Mode  of  embarking,  388 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Paita — Bay — Town — Piura — Whalers — A  fish  story,  ...        414 

CHAPTER  XXV. 
Geography  of  Peru — Repartimientos — Mita  System — General  La  Mar — 
General  Gamarra,  - 417 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Valedictory  to  the  south-west  coast  of  America,  and  return  home,      -        435 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


The  following  pages  are  the  result  of  observations  made 
during  two  cruises  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  one  of  more  than  three 
years,  on  board  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Brandywine,  from  August 
1S26,  to  October  1829,  and  the  last  on  board  of  the  U.  S.  S. 
Falmouth,  from  June  1831,  to  February  1S34,  and  recorded 
with  a  hope  of  making  my  countrymen  better  acquainted  with 
some  of  the  peculiarities  of  their  southern  neighbors. 

As  far  as  the  nature  of  the  work  would  permit,  the  author 
has  avoided  obtruding  himself  upon  the  attention  of  the  reader, 
and  has  indulged  in  but  few  reflections  ;  being  content  to  pre- 
sent naked  facts,  and  allow  each  one  to  dress  them  for  himself, 
and  draw  his  own  conclusions.  The  merits  of  the  perform- 
ance, with  its  many  imperfections,  remain  to  be  decided  by  the 
public,  from  whom  is  claimed  all  the  indulgence  usually  accord- 
ed to  novices  in  undertakings  of  the  kind. 


(£j*  The  word  "huaca,"  which  occurs  several  times  in  the  "Notices  of  Pe- 
ru," is  pronounced  as  if  it  were  written  waca.  The  words  in  Spanish,  which 
begin  with  hua  and  Jua,  are  pronounced  as  if  written  with  W  i  thus,  Huanchaco 
is  pronounced  IVanchaco;  Juanita,  JVanita,  Sec. 


THREE   YEARS   IN  THE   PACIFIC. 


INTRODUCTION. 

Introductory — Getting  under  way — Getting  to  Sea. 

Sea-going  people,  and  particularly  sailors,  for  there  is  a 
distinction  to  be  made  between  them,  derive  a  pleasure  from 
looking  at  a  vessel,  which  landsmen  cannot  comprehend.  Next 
to  woman,  nothing  can  fix  the  admiring  gaze  of  a  thorough 
bred  seaman,  so  soon  as  a  ship.  When  he  views  her  from  the 
shore,  sitting  buoyantly  on  the  water,  his  eye  roves  quickly 
over  her  side  from  stem  to  stern,  and  carefully  notes  her  pro- 
portions, her  paint,  the  line  of  her  ports  and  guns,  with  bright 
tompions  reflecting  the  sun's  rays,  her  shear,  and  model  gene- 
rally. The  next  look  is  aloft.  There  he  scans  the  nice  propor- 
tion and  symmetry  of  her  spars  ;  if  the  examination  be  satisfac- 
tory, he  pronounces  her  "a  splendid  model — clean  run  and 
neat  aloft,"  mentally  deciding  that  she  sits  on  the  water  like  a 
duck,  and  must  be  a  good  sea-boat.  If  he  is  to  become  an  in- 
mate on  board,  from  that  moment  he  feels  a  growing  affection 
for  her,  and  will  not  hear  her  faults  mentioned  without  attempt- 
ing a  defence.  He  speaks  her  praises  with  delight,  and  takes 
as  much  pleasure  in  her  decoration,  as  a  city  belle  possibly  can 
in  that  of  her  own  person ; — his  ship  occupies  a  place  in  his 
mind,  only  second  to  that  of  his  wife  or  sweetheart. 

Without  possessing  the  discriminating  eye  of  a  tar,  I  enjoy, 
in  a  high  degree,  the  sight  of  a  fine  ship  at  her  moorings,  and 

when  I  first  looked  upon  the  F ,  I  felt  a  "yearning  to- 

2 


10  THKKE   FEABS  IN   THE    PACIFIC. 

wards'*  her.   Yet  this  is  not  that  warm,  adoring  sort  of  love, 
IB  spired  by  woman,  but  rather  such  attachment  as  we  feel  for 

a  favorite  dog  or  horse.   Though  the  F be  not  a  perfect 

imen  of  naval  architecture,  she  is  looked  on  favorably  by 
those,  "trained  to  command  and  range  the  various  sail,"  and 
her  accommodations,  both  for  officers  and  men,  will  bear  com- 
parison with  those  of  any  sloop-of-war  in  the  service. 

I  laving  prepared  every  thing  for  my  voyage,  in  June,  1831, 
I  found  myself  on  board,  waiting  only  for  a  favorable  wind.  I 
had  parted  from  my  friends.  Recollection  is  still  fresh  with 
the  conflict  between  the  anticipation  of  new  scenes  and  the 
regret  of  separation,  the  resolution  to  part  without  a  sigh,  the 
benedictions  of  parting  friends,  the  gazing  after  one,  the  ma- 
ternal blessing  and  last  advice,  breathed  in  tones  of  affection. 
The  words  of  a  mother  at  such  a  time  are  like  a  warning  voice 
from  Heaven,  and  like  that  voice,  too  frequently  disregarded ; 
— one's  feelings  almost  bubble  up  at  the  thought,  in  spite  of  all 
that  philosophy  may  teach  ! 

"  It  is  a  bitter  trial  to  forsake, 
E'en  for  a  season,  in  this  changeful  world, 
The  things  we  cherish  !" 

One  morning,  while  looking  over  the  beautiful  bay,  and 
gazing  on  the  fair  city  of  New  York,  that  seemed  to  rise  out 
of  the  bosom  of  the  waters,  the  boatswain  shouted,  in  the  deep, 
gruff  tone,  peculiar  to  those  of  his  office,  "  all  hands,  up  an- 
chor ahoy  !" 

The  first  lieutenant,  the  moving  spring  of  the  active  and 
ready  crew,  stood  upon  the  poop,  trumpet  in  hand.  The  offi- 
cers were  called  to  their  respective  stations  ;  the  capstan  bars 
placed  and  manned  ;  the  messenger  passed.  Silence  reigned 
"  fore  and  aft."  The  "  first"  applied  the  trumpet  to  his  mouth, 
and  in  an  under  tone,  gave  the  order,  "heave  round." 

The  "lads"  stepped  away  to  the  music  of  the  merry  fife, 
and  with  light  hearts,  timed  "Off  she  goes"  till  the  anchor 
was  apeak. 

••  High  enough,"  cried  the  second  lieutenant,  who  was  sta- 
tioned on  the  forecastle 


INTRODUCTION.  11 

"Pall  the  capstan — unship  the  bars — lay  aloft  top-men  — 
lower-yard-men  in  the  rigging,"  were  the  successive  orders, 
and  at  once,  the  masts  appeared  like  living  pyramids  of  nimbly 
moving  seamen. 

"  Aloft  lower-yard-men,"  and  they  followed  to  their  stations. 
"Close  in,  you  Sirs,  close  in."  The  men  were  now  seen  in 
the  tops,  under  them,  and  near  the  yards,  ready  to  spring  for- 
ward at  the  next  word,  which  they  seemed  eager  to  anticipate, 
for  it  was  necessary  to  repeat  the  admonition,  "to  keep  close 
in,"  to  prevent  them  from  immediately  gaining  the  ends  of 
the  various  yards.  The  orders  were  now  given  in  the  full  tone 
of  command. 

"Trice  up — layout — loose  away."  In  a  second,  the  stud- 
ding sail  booms  rose  ;  the  sail-loosers  were  hanging  over  the 
yards,  untying  the  cords  which  secured  the  sails  in  their  posi- 
tions, and  the  next  moment  all  was  still — not  a  finger  moved. 

"  Stand  by — are  you  ready  there  fore  and  aft  ?"  "  All  ready, 
Sir,"  replied  a  midshipman  from  each  of  the  tops. 

"  Let  fall — sheet  home  and  hoist  away  the  topsails — cheerly 
with  the  main,  cheerly."  At  the  word,  all  the  canvass,  which 
heretofore  had  been  concealed  by  being  neatly  folded  on  the 
yards,  fell  at  the  same  instant  into  beautiful  festoons,  and  the 
men  briskly  descended  to  the  deck.  The  next  moment  the 
topsails  were  hoisting,  and  the  fifes  playing  "The  girls  we 
left  behind  us,"  as  the  crew  marched  along  the  deck  with  the 
haulyards,  keeping  time  to  the  music. 

"Tramp  the  deck  boys,  tramp  the  deck,"  cried  the  second 
lieutenant  in  an  encouraging  tone,  and  the  time  was  marked 
louder  than  ever. 

"High  enough  with  the  mizen — belay  the  mizen  topsail 
haulyards,"  cried  the  fifth  lieutenant.  "Belay  the  mizen  top- 
sail haulyards,"  echoed  a  midshipman  in  a  youthful  key,  and 
the  boatswain's  mate  piped,  belay  ! 

"Belay  the  fore-topsail  haulyards — high  enough  with  the 
main — belay  the  main  topsail  haulyards,"  succeeded  pretty 
rapidly,  attended  by  the  same  echoing  and  piping  as  before. 

Again  the  capstan  bars  were  placed,  or  rather  "shipped," 


12  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  the  order  given  to  "  heave  round."  The  next  moment,  the 
"second"  cried,  "high  enough." 

"Pall  the  capstan — unship  the  hars — forward  to  the  'cat' — 
move,  lads,  move — "  replied  the  "first"  in  the  full  tone  of  a 
manly  voice,  unaided  hy  his  trumpet.  A  few  seconds  only 
passed,  and  the  anchor  rested  on  the  hows. 

"Man  the  jih  haulyards." 

"All  manned,  Sir,"  replied  the  "second." 

"Haul  taught — hoist  away  the  jib — starboard  your  helm, 
quarter-master — jump  to  the  braces — starboard  fore  braces — 
larboard  main  braces — starboard  cro'  jack  braces,  haul  in — ." 
The  execution  of  these  orders,  almost  as  fast  as  given,  brought 
the  fore-topsail  aback  against  the  mast,  while  the  "  after"  yards 
were  full  ;  and  aided  by  the  jib,  her  head  "paid  round,"  and 
looked  down  the  stream.  Now,  the  yards  were  trimmed  to 
the  wind,  and  the  ship  moved  gently  on  her  way. 

The  wind  drew  kindly  aft.  Sail  after  sail  was  spread,  and 
studding-sails  were  set,  "low  and  aloft  ;"  thus,  under  a  cloud 
of  canvass,  and  with  a  fine  breeze,  the  ship  swept  away  with 
the  ease  and  grace  of  a  sea  bird. 

Silence  took  place  of  the  bustle  consequent  upon  getting 
under  way.  The  sea-oJJlce?'S  still  remained  at  their  stations, 
while  the  idlers*  were  on  the  poop,  admiring  the  scenes  we 
were  passing  on  either  hand,  or  conversing  with  those  few 
friends,  who,  determined  to  see  the  last  of  us,  accompanied  us 
down  to  return  in  the  pilot  boat.  It  is  soothing,  in  after  years, 
to  call  to  mind  those  who  thus  speed  us  with  stili  another  look 
— another  grasp  ; — to  what  hopes,  and  fears,  and  regrets,  does 
the  word  farewell  give  rise  ! 

The  men  were  standing  about  the  decks,  ready  to  seize  a 
rope  when  ordered.  The  pilot  stood  upon  a  gun,  attentive  to 
the  song  of  the  leadsman  in  the  chains,  as  he  cried,  "  by  the 
deep  nine,"  and  narrowly  watching  the  progress  of  the  ship. 
His  words  were  few,  and  directed  to  the  quarter  master  at  the 

•  Idler  is  Uic  epithet  applied  to  all  officers  on  board  of  a  man-of-war,  who 
do  not  keep  a  regular  watch  ;  such  are  the  surgeon,  purser,  sailing  master,  Sec. 


INTRODUCTION.  13 

wheel,  who  answered  his  orders  with  precision.  "Port,"  said 
the  pilot,    "Port,  Sir," — replied  the  quarter  master. 

"Steady,"  said  the  pilot. 

"  Steady,  Sir,"  repeated  the  quarter  master. 

When  we  arrived  at  the  Narrows,  our  prospects  of  getting 
to  sea  that  day  were  blasted  ;  the  wind  suddenly  changed,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  bring  the  ship  to  anchor. 

After  spending  several  days  at  Staten  Island,  the  wind  blew 
fair.  Soon  the  anchor  arose  from  its  bed  ;  the  sails  were  again 
spread,  and  swelled  into  beautiful  curves,  that  harmonized  with 
the  straight  lines  of  our  spars  and  rigging  ;  we  moved  over  the 
placid  surface  of  the  bay — the  leadsman's  song  ceased — our 
bows  nodded  recognition  to  the  crested  wave  of  the  ocean — 
the  pilot  boarded  his  little  vessel,  bearing  our  last  farewell,  and 
we  stood  on  our  course  towards  where  the  waters  and  skies 
seemed  to  meet.  The  day  was  in  its  splendor,  but  lighted  no- 
thing to  us  save  the  expanse  of  the  sea.  Night  came,  and  the 
moon  looked  over  the  mighty  scene,  and  her  light  danced  over 
the  waves.  The  stars  shone  brightly  and  calmly  ;  the  breeze 
blew  mildly.  Thus,  day  succeeds  day,  and  the  sameness  of 
ship's  duty  is  only  relieved  by  occasionally  meeting  a  sail  as 
lonely  as  ourselves. 

There  are  times,  however,  when  the  dark  clouds  hang  upon 
the  horizon — the  waters  darken,  and  heaving  themselves  sul- 
lenly, often  to  a  fearful  height,  burst  into  foam — the  scud  flies 
over  the  heavens — lightning  flashes — thunder  rolls,  and  the 
storm  howls  furiously  across  the  waste  !  The  ship,  then  strip- 
ped of  her  canvass,  rises  and  plunges  to  the  impulse  of  the 
waves,  and  the  wind  moans  sadly  through  the  shrouds.  Then 
does  man,  indeed,  in  his  majesty  of  mind,  appear  warring  with 
the  elements,  and  bidding  defiance  to  their  force.  The  noble 
bark  seems  to  spurn  the  angry  buffetings  of  the  deep,  and  glides 
triumphantly  over  the  heaving  billows.  Well  tempered  enthu- 
siasm swells  the  bosom  of  the  skilful  director  of  this  wonderful 
machine.  He  scans  the  heavens  and  the  wild  waste  ;  his  voice 
rises  above  the  tempest,  and  his  orders  are  executed,  by  those 
whom  he  guides,  as  fearlessly  as  they  are  given. 

Then  follow,  the  abatement  of  the  winds,  the  smoothing  of 


14  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  sea,  the  clearing  of  the  sky,  and  the  reappearance  of  the 
sun.  Next  comes  the  calm,  with  its  never  failing  attendant, 
ennui ;  the  ship  rolls  over  a  still  restless  sea,  the  sails  flap 
against  the  mast,  every  place  on  hoard  is  uncomfortable,  and 
every  place  cheerless — at  length,  a  gentle  breeze,  first  seen  at 
a  distance,  comes  skipping  and  kissing  along  the  surface,  throw- 
ing it  into  fields  of  ripple.  The  sails  feel  its  influence,  and 
again  we  move  on  our  course,  with  spirits  as  buoyant  as  our 
"sea-girt"  home  ! 


NOTICES    OF    BRAZIL. 


NOTICES    OF    BRAZIL. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Entrance  to  Rio  de  Janeiro — The  Sugar  Loaf — Glance  round  the  harbor- 
Trie  Corcovado — Gloria  Church — The  City — Praya  Grande. 

On  the  last  Sunday  in  August  1831,  we  descried  through  a 
hazy  atmosphere,  the  "  Cabo  do  Frio,"  while  yet  thirty  miles 
off.  Five  years  before  1  beheld  this  lump  of  Brazilian  earth 
with  as  much  interest  as  if  it  were  a  mass  of  topaz  or  diamonds ; 
then,  every  moment  seemed  an  hour,  and  every  spot  that  pre- 
sented itself  as  we  drew  near,  became  of  importance.  Even 
the  sand  beach,  sweeping  towards  the  capital  of  this  empire, 
fancy  assured  me,  led  to  something,  but  that  something  was 
indefinite,  and  is  so  still.  The  same  feeling  seemed  to  pervade 
all  those,  who  looked  now  on  a  strange  shore,  for  the  first 
time  ; — every  countenance  beamed  with  joy,  and  all  were  plea- 
surably  excited. 

Cape  Frio,  a  high,  wild,  barren  insular  promontory,  stands 
at  the  extremity  of  Maranbaya  beach,  sixty-eight  miles  to  the 
eastward  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  having  a  passage  for  coasting  ves- 
sels between  it  and  the  main.  The  land  may  be  seen  from  a 
great  distance  in  clear  weather,  rising  high  behind  the  beach, 
which  sweeps  with  a  gentle  curve  to  the  entrance  of  the  har- 
bor. 

We  were  favored  with  a  fresh  sea  breeze.  Keeping  in  sight 
of  the  beach,  we  could  see  distinctly,  before  the  clay  closed, 
3 


IS  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Nazareth,  built  on  the  shore  thirty 
miles  from  the  Cape;  also,  "  Cabo  Negro,"  and  the  Maris  Isl- 
ands, which  are  said  to  be  fourteen  miles  from  the  "  Pau-de- 
Agucar,"  or  Sugar  Loaf,  so  called  from  its  form,  standing  on 
the  west  side  of  the  harbor. 

The  wind  died  away  as  the  sun  set,  and  we  were  obliged  to 
wait  for  the  morning  under  easy  sail.  The  morning  was  cloudy 
and  foggy,  and  we  were  unable  to  get  into  port  that  day.  To- 
wards evening  we  saw  the  islands  again,  and  after  night  fall, 
the  light  on  "  Ilha  Raza"  or  Flat  Island,  or,  according  to  the 
easy  translation  of  sailors,  Razor  Island.  The  sun  set  in  a 
heavy  bank  of  clouds,  shooting  his  rays  high,  and  gilding  the 
skies  in  beautifully  varied  tints,  and  lighting  up  our  hopes  for 
the  morrow;  the  night,  like  the  preceding,  was  spent  under 
easy  sail. 

About  eleven  o'clock  on  Tuesday  morning  the  sea-breeze 
set  in,  much  to  our  relief,  for  we  were  weary  with  "hope  de- 
layed." As  we  drew  near,  the  several  small  islands,  sprinkled 
near  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  came  into  sight  one  after  the 
other,  as  the  fog  lifted  slowly  before  the  gentle  breeze.  Pre- 
sently we  saw  the  "  Pao-de-Agucar,"  rising  nearly  thirteen 
hundred  feet*  into  the  air  on  the  left  of  the  harbor's  mouth, 
and  on  the  right,  the  battlements  of  Santa  Cruz,  standing  at 
the  foot  of  a  high  mountain.  When  still  nearer,  we  perceived 
the  Brazilian  flag  of  yellow  and  green ;  the  holy  cross,  emble- 
matic of  the  religion  of  the  country ;  the  telegraph  and  watch 
towers,  then  the  masts  of  the  shipping  in  the  harbor.     When 

*  Captain  Beechey,  R.  N.  measured  it,  both  in  1825  and  1828.  The  first  ob- 
servation made  its  summit  to  be  1286,  and  the  last,  1299  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea. — Beechey's  Voyage. 

To  the  westward  of  the  Sugar  Loaf,  the  land  is  very  remarkable ;  when  ap- 
proaching the  harbor  on  a  clear  day,  it  presents  the  appearance  of  a  huge 
figure  of  a  man  lying  on  his  back.  The  profile  of  the  face  presents  an  immense 
nose  and  chin,  while  the  "Pao-de-AcAicar"  represents  the  toes  of  this  great 
man.  Some  exaggerating  and  waggish  fancy  has  given  to  the  whole  the  fami- 
liar appellation  of  Lord  Hood's  nose  ;  whether  that  feature  of  his  Lordship  me- 
rited the  comparison,  is  not  a  matter  of  history  ;— though  Captain  Basil  Hall 
states  that,  "the  characteristic  prominence  of  the  Hood  nose"  has  been  well 
known  in  the  navy  "for  a  glorious  half  century." 


NOTICES  OF   BRAZIL.  19 

passing  close  under  the  guns  of  the  fortress,  we  were  hailed  in 
a  slow,  stentorian  tone,  that  seemed  to  issue  from  the  rocks, 
for  no  human  being  was  in  sight;  allowing  an  interval  between 
each  word,  the  voice  cried,  "what — ship — is — that? — Where 
— do — you — come — from? — How — many — days — out?  These 
questions  being  answered,  it  wished  us  a  pleasant  passage  to 
the  city,  whose  spires  and  fanes  were  already  in  view.  We 
continued  our  course,  passed  a  small  fort  situated  near  the  en- 
trance of  Botapogo,  the  fort  of  Villegagnon,  point  Gloria, 
and  soon  reached  our  anchorage,  in  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
and  picturesque  bays  in  the  world. 

We  "  came  to"  about  a  mile  from  the  city,  with  our  bows 
to  the  southward  and  consequently  looking  out  of  the  harbor. 
Rat  Island  and  "  Ilha  das  Cobras,"  lay  between  us  and  the 
shore.  The  former  is  notable,  because  navigators,  on  arriving 
here,  resort  to  it  for  the  purpose  of  testing  the  correctness  of 
their  nautical  instruments.  It  is  a  small,  low  rock,  and  not  far 
from  the  latter,  which  divides  the  outer  from  the  inner  har- 
bor ;  the  men-of-war  lie  in  the  one,  and  merchantmen  occupy 
the  other. 

From  the  Sugar  Loaf,  which  is  a  conspicuous  point,  we  will 
glance  round  this  beautiful  marine  basin,  and  endeavor  to  con- 
vey some  idea  of  its  form.  The  "  Pao-de-Agucar"  is  more  than 
twelve  hundred  feet  high,  as  mentioned  above,  and  bears  a 
striking  resemblance  to  a  loaf  of  sugar,  inclining  a  little  to  one 
side.  Its  surface  is  nearly  smooth,  of  a  dark,  sombre  color,  and 
sprinkled  here  and  there  with  little  tufts  of  stunted  bushes.  It 
stands  on  the  west  side  of  the  harbor,  and  at  the  entrance  of 
the  almost  circular  bay  of  Botafogo,  which  sweeps  round  towards 
the  city  as  far  as  San  Bernardo  point.  Notwithstanding  the 
steepness  of  its  sides,  (that  towards  the  sea  being  perpendicular, 
or  perhaps  overlooking  the  water  for  ten  or  fifteen  feet  above 
the  surface,)  it  has  been  twice  ascended,  and  both  times  from 
the  most  inaccessible  point.  Many  years  ago  an  Austrian  mid- 
shipman, in  that  reckless  spirit  of  enterprise  which  is  a  boon 
given  to  all  sailors  by  father  Neptune,  when  they  wed  the 
sea,  offered  to  wager  with  his  messmates  that  he  would  ascend 
the  Sugar  Loaf  from  the  sea  side,  and  display  a  flag  on  its  sum- 


20  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

mit.  The  offer  was  accepted,  and  the  young  son  of  the  Ocean, 
properly  equipped,  started  on  his  expedition.  At  the  base  of 
theMrock,  the  water  rises  and  falls  alternately  three  or  four  feet 
as  the  waves  roll  past  into  the  harbor,  so  that  several  attempts 
were  made,  before  he  succeeded  in  landing.  He  then  toiled  up 
the  embrowned  side  of  the  rock,  hoisting  himself  by  a  bush  or 
by  some  inequality  of  the  surface,  till  he  reached  the  top,  where 
he  displayed  his  banner,  and  to  the  terror  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Rio,  lighted  a  fire;  for  every  one  who  was  not  aware  of  the 
enterprise,  thought  that  the  Pao-de-Aeucar  had  suddenly  be- 
come a  volcano.  After  remaining  all  night  under  the  dreadful 
apprehension,  as  he  said,  of  being  eaten  by  venomous  serpents 
that  hissed  round  the  fire,  or  of  rolling  down  the  shot  tower 
like  mountain  into  the  sea,  if  he  should  be  overcome  by  sleep, 
he  safely  descended,  and  obtained  the  wager.  In  spite  of  its 
difficulties,  the  same  feat  was  afterwards  achieved  by  an  Ame- 
rican midshipman,  who  left  "the  stripes  and  stars"  waving 
over  the  land  while  the  bunting  endured,  for  no  Brazilian 
would  venture  to  haul  it  down.  The  repetition  of  the  enter- 
prise is  now  forbidden  by  an  imperial  decree. 

Close  in  the  rear,  the  mountains  are  broken  by  deep  ravines 
and  splintered  into  peaks,  one  of  which,  called  the  Corcovado, 
out  tops  and  overhangs  the  rest.  Upon  its  very  summit,  like 
an  eyry  perched  among  the  clouds,  is  an  observatory  and  a 
watch  tower  which  may  be  seen  at  a  great  distance,  when  not 
hidden  in  the  vapors  that  frequently  shroud  it.* 

Between  San  Bernardo  and  Gloria  points  extends  a  long 
beach,  which,  from  having  been  the  resort,  in  times  past,  of 
the  gorgeously  plumed  flamingo,  is  now  called  "  Praya  do  Fla- 
mingo." On  Gloria  point  is  placed,  very  conspicuously,  a  small 
white  church,  dedicated  to  the  invocation  of  "  Nossa  Senhora 
de  Gloria."  The  edifice  is  octahedral,  and  has  a  tall  slender 
spire  at  one  side.  The  hill  on  which  it  stands  is  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  spots  about  Rio.  The  terrace  surrounding 
the  church,  which  is  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of 

•  According-  to  the  measurement  of  Captain  Heechcy,  H.  N.  made  after  the 
formula  of  Mr.  Daniel,  the  ha.se  of  the  flag  staff  is  by  one  observation  2308 
feet,  and  by  a  second  2306  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  21 

the  sea,  forms  a  delightful  promenade  in  "  twilight  gray,"  well 
suited  for  the  denoument  of  love.  In  the  hall  or  entrance  of 
the  building  are  hung  many  mementos  of  the  miracles  wrought 
by  our  Lady  of  Glory,  who,  it  would  appear,  was  an  adept  in 
the  healing  art.  Casts  in  wax,  many  of  them  obscene  in  their 
configuration,  from  that  of  the  simplest  wound  to  the  most 
loathsome  ulcer,  are  collected  here  as  testimonials  of  relief  af- 
forded at  her  hands  and  through  her  invocation,  to  the  afflicted 
of  both  sexes. 

From  this  point  sweeps  a  small  cove,  lined  by  a  neat  row  of 
Avhite  one  story  buildings  that  look  out  upon  the  bay,  to  point 
St.  Iago,  upon  which  stands  a  fortress  of  the  same  name.  The 
next  cove  is  short,  and  terminates  at  "Cobras."  Here  the 
city  is  seen  over  a  forest  of  the  masts  of  small  craft,  reposing 
under  the  shelter  of  the  mountains.  The  "  Praca  de  San  Jose," 
the  Palace,  and  the  imperial  Chapels  are  conspicuous.  The 
whiteness  of  the  buildings  brings  the  whole,  like  a  picture,  in 
strong  relief  against  the  dark  mountain  sides  in  the  back  ground. 
Bells  are  ringing  different  peals  at  the  same  time,  guns  are 
firing,  and  at  almost  every  hour  of  every  day,  hundreds  of 
rockets  are  sent  whizzing  through  the  air  in  honor  of  some 
saintly  festival.  From  the  anchorage,  the  city  appears  to  be  a 
cleanly  one,  but  "  'Tis  distance  lends  enchantment  to  the 
view ;"  for, 


"whoso  entereth  in  this  town, 


That,  sheening  far,  celestial  seems  to  be, 

Disconsolate  will  wander  up  and  down, 

'Mid  many  things  unsightly  to  strange  ee ; 

For  hut  and  palace  show  like  filthily  : 

The  dingy  denizens  are  reared  in  dirt ; 

Ne  personage  of  high  or  mean  degree 

Doth  care  for  cleanness  of  surtout  or  shirt, 

Though  shent  with  Egypt's  plague,  unkempt,  unwash'd,  unhurt !" 

To  the  northward,  the  mountains  rise  high  in  slender,  splin- 
tered peaks,  which,  from  a  fancied  resemblance  to  the  tubes  of 
an  organ,  are  called  the  Organ  Mountains.  In  the  same  direc- 
tion are  seen  white  chateaus  perched  on  the  hills  and  rocks,  so 
high  as  to  be  sometimes  robed  in  clouds.    The  city  itself  is 


22  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

overlooked  by  two  or  three  convents,  as  solemn  in  their  appear- 
ance as  the  monks  of  their  cloisters. 

On  the  eastern  side,  and  nearly  opposite  to  Rio,  is  a  neat, 
quiet  village  called  Praya  Grande,  which,  during  the  season  of 
amusement,  is  a  place  of  general  resort.  It  contains  several 
potteries,  and  is  famed  for  the  quantity  of  fine  sweetmeats, 
made  and  exported.  At  the  southern  extremity  of  Praya  is  a 
huge  mass  of  rocks,  which,  apparently,  have  been  thrown  from 
the  main  land  by  some  natural  convulsion  ;  upon  its  very  sum- 
mit (a  most  romantic  situation  truly)  stands  a  church  or  a 
dwelling,  accessible  from  the  main  by  a  short  wooden  bridge. 
From  this  point  the  beach  of  the  placid  bay  of  Inrufuba  sweeps, 
almost  like  a  circle,  to  fort  Santa  Cruz.  Along  the  shore  is  a 
straggling  village,  interspersed  with  gardens,  and  surrounded 
by  luxuriant  plantations  of  the  coffee  tree. 

We  have  now  glanced  round  the  bay  and  arrived  at  Santa 
Cruz,  between  which  and  the  Sugar  Loaf,  the  waters  roll  into 
this  magnificent  harbor; — an  amphitheatre  whose  bounds  are 
hills  rising  one  behind  the  other,  valleys  and  mountains  that 
are  smiled  on  throughout  the  year  both  by  Flora  and  Pomona, 
yielding  flowers  and  fruits,  grateful  in  their  fragrance,  and  lus- 
cious to  the  most  refined  and  delicate  taste.  Over  this  sheet  of 
water,  passage  boats,  under  a  press  of  sail,  are  stretching  in 
every  direction,  bearing  parties  from  shore  to  shore.  The 
naked  negro  toils  at  his  oar — the  black  soldier  in  gay  costume 
lolls  in  his  curtained  barge,  wreathed  in  the  smoke  of  his  cigar 
— the  tatooed  slave  paddles  his  rude  canoe — the  barges  of  the 
men-of-war,  with  feathering  oars,  are  shooting  from  point  to 
point — the  men-of-war  sit  majestically,  and  their  flags  and  pen- 
nants flutter  proudly  on  the  breeze — the  forts  and  castles  frown 
sullenly — the  palace  smiles — the  church  and  convent  look 
grave — the  hills  are  lovely — the  mountains  grand — the  grace- 
ful palm  tree  nods. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  23 


CHAPTER  II. 

Walk  in  the  streets  of  Rio — Imperial  Chapels — Rua  Direita — Slaves — Rua 
d'Ouvidor — Marimba — Abdication  of  Dom  Pedro — Regency  of  Pedro  II. 

Many  years  ago,  I  met  in  Brazil,  an  Austrian  gentleman, 
who,  having  spent  several  years  in  England,  spoke  English 
remarkably  well.  Certain  circumstances  of  a  private  nature, 
in  which  the  heart  was  deeply  interested,  which  he  narrated, 
ripened  an  acquaintanceship  of  a  few  weeks  into  intimacy  and 
friendship.  His  name  was  Brunner.  When  I  last  saw  him, 
in  1826,  he  held  a  colonel's  commission  in  the  imperial  army 
of  Brazil. 

The  first  inquiries  that  suggested  themselves  on  landing  at 
the  palace  stairs  in  September  1831,  were  whether  Brunner 
was  still  in  the  city,  and  whether  he  was  still  lamenting  his 
disappointment; — his  "  ladye  love"  had  played  him  false!  I 
made  my  way  among  the  boatmen  and  venders  of  fruit  always 
standing  on  the  slip,  and  looked  at  the  sentinel  and  his  box. 
Whether  any  thing  had  been  changed,  or  whether  he  had  been 
relieved  since  my  last  visit,  1  doubt.  The  same  high  cloth  cap 
covered  his  woolly  head,  and  the  same  musket  was  trailed  over 
his  shoulder — the  same  soiled  belt  and  cartouche  box  hung  at 
his  side,  and  as  little  energy  was  displayed  in  his  whole  ap- 
pearance as  can  possibly  be  imagined.  A  paper  cigar  burned 
quietly  between  his  lips,  which  he  seemed  too  lazy  to  puff  to 
prevent  it  from  going  out.  While  observing  this  sauntering 
soldier,  I  was  suddenly  seized  by  the  hand  and  welcomed  to 
Brazil.  It  was  Brunner.  He  had  recognised  me  across  the 
palace  square,  and  almost  breathless  came  running  to  greet  me. 

"  When  did  you  arrive — how  long  do  you  stay — how  have 
you  been  ?" 

Unexpected  meetings  with  friends  are  always  agreeable, 
even  at  home,  and  when  one  sees  a  man  suddenly  stand  before 
him  in  a  strange  land,  whom  he  is  conjecturing  may  be  dead, 


24  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

or  what  is  the  same  thing,  gone  away,  the  pleasure  is  enhanced 
— imagination  cannot  conjure  up  any  thing  half  so  pleasant. 

As  I  answered  the  questions,  my  arm  resting  on  Brunner's, 
we  walked  towards  the  imperial  chapel,  which  fronts  the  quay. 
1  observed  that  my  friend  was  attired  d,  le  citoyen,  and  at  once 
inferred  that  a  change  had  taken  place  in  his  pursuits. 

"You  have  doffed  your  regimentals?" 

"Oh  yes! — true,"  he  replied,  "I  followed  your  advice  in 
that;  you  told  me.  you  may  remember, 

"  The  charm  of  life  that's  lost  in  love, 
Is  never  found  in  fame  !" 

and  I  considered  that,  with  some  other  things  you  said,  very 
seriously,  and  in  consequence,  changed  the  muster  roll  into  a 
leger." 

"And  got  married  in  consequence  of  the  change?" 

"If  you  discovered  that  by  my  countenance,  you  deserve 
credit  as  a  physiognomist.  I  have  indeed  found  '  a  Leah  my 
recompense  to  be' — but  more  of  that  anon." 

"  I  must  congratulate  you  at  any  rate — for  a  man  of  the 
world  would  never  marry  in  Brazil  without  making  himself 
wealthy,  because  happiness  is  seldom  the  companion  of  a  fo- 
reign wife  and  poverty." 

"Thank  you — thank  you — I  am  much  better — I  mean,  1 
am  much  more  useful  in  the  world  now  than  I  was  as  a  sol- 
dier; but  you  shall  have  an  opportunity  of  judging  for  yourself. 
Do  you  observe  any  change  in  the  appearance  of  the  "Pra§a 
de  San  Jose"  or  "  Largo  do  Paco  ?" 

The  fountain  seems  to  be  just  as  much  frequented,  and  I  do 
not  perceive  that  the  chattering  of  the  negroes  is  less ;  nor  have 
they  lost  any  skill  in  balancing  their  water-kegs.  If  we  may 
judge  from  the  heavy  burdens  they  carry  upon  it,  negroes  care 
less  for  the  head  than  we  do.  How  is  it,  that  pressure  does 
not  spread  the  arch  of  the  skull  and  make  it  assume  an  unna- 
tural shape,  as  in  the  case  of  Indians  of  certain  tribes  !  Some 
of  the  slaves  here  carry  almost  constantly,  the  weight  of  fifteen 
or  sixteen  gallons  of  water  on  the  head  nearly  all  day  long, 
moving  so  steadily  under  it,  that  keg  and  man  appear  to  be 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  25 

parts  of  the  same  machine.  A  negro  instinctively  puts  every 
thing  on  his  head  be  it  light  or  heavy,  yet  I  am  not  aware  of 
any  race  that  is  remarkably  flat  headed. 

"There  is  not  so  much  military  show  about  the  palace  now 
as  during  the  reign  of  Pedro  I.  We  were  wont  to  see  each 
of  those  staffs  along  the  palace  wall,  supporting  a  musket ;  and 
troops  parading  at  this  hour,  and  a  fine  band  playing." 

"'That  is  easily  accounted  for — 

'  Grim  visaged  war  has  smoothed  his  wrinkled  front.' 

The  army  has  been  but  lately  disbanded,  and  only  men  enough 
kept  to  garrison  the  forts." 

We  were  now  in  front  of  the  imperial  chapels  which  open 
on  the  square  called  the  place  of  St.  Joseph.  The  emperor's 
chapel  is  amongst  the  richest  and  most  splendid  in  Rio;  it  is 
not  large,  but  the  whole  interior  is  arranged  with  a  due  regard 
to  taste.  Every  person  uncovers  while  he  passes  the  open 
door,  or  bows,  and  signs  himself  with  the  cross  as  he  enters. 
Several  females  were  kneeling  in  different  parts  of  the  open 
space,  on  carpets  or  mats  brought  by  their  slaves,  while  the 
men  were  content  to  protect  their  knees  from  the  dusty  pave- 
ment by  spreading  out  a  pocket  handkerchief.  On  either  side 
of  the  church  are  small  altars  dedicated  to  saints  whose  por- 
traits or  statues,  carved  in  wood  or  cast  in  wax  as  large  as  life, 
stand  in  niches  above,  decorated  with  a  profusion  of  tinsel.  A 
low,  wooden  balustrade  runs  parallel  with  the  wall  on  each 
side  of  the  church,  forming  narrow  aisles  in  front  of  the  minor 
shrines,  and  separating  them  from  the  centre  or  nave,  at  the 
farthest  end  of  which  stands  the  principal  altar,  rendered  mag- 
nificent at  the  expense  of  a  great  deal  of  wealth  and  labor.  The 
ceiling  is  arched,  and  ornamented  with  stucco  and  twisted 
mouldings  richly  gilt. 

In  all  Catholic  countries,  the  churches  are  open  from  dawn 
till  sunset,  and  during  that  interval,  persons  may  be  always 
found  at  their  devotions.  Sunrise,  however,  is  the  most  fash- 
ionable hour.  Here,  the  wealthy  go  in  their  palanquins, 
dressed  in  black  silk,  with  a  manto  of  the  same  material,  or  a 
lace  veil,  worn  tastefully  over  the  head  and  shoulders. 
4 


26  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"This  is  certainly  a  splendid  temple,"  said  I,  "but  it  is 
easy  to  perceive  through  all  the  glitter  that  it  is  only  an  imi- 
tation of  reality — the  golden  candlesticks  are  but  gilded  wood, 
and  the  tall  wax  candles  are  only  half  what  they  seem.  Why 
endeavor  to  practice  a  deception  in  a  church?  the  most  igno- 
rant devotee  that  kneels  must  know  that  the  apparently  tall 
candles  are  tin  tubes,  with  wax  ends." 

"  Had  you  been  in  Italy,  you  would  not  admire  this  church 
so  much  ;  it  is  not  so  rich  now  as  it  formerly  was.  The  ad- 
joining temple  is  the  chapel  of  the  empress,  but  I  do  not  think 
it  superior  in  beauty  or  decoration  to  that  we  have  just  left." 

We  walked  along  the  "  Rua  Direita,"  which  may  be  con- 
sidered the  "Broadway"  of  Rio,  and  stopped  before  the  door 
of  the  "Hotel  du  Nord,"  which,  like  a  spendthrift,  had  seen 
its  best  days  in  its  youth.  Degeneration,  even  of  a  tavern,  falls 
unpleasantly  upon  the  sight ;  this  one,  from  being  the  best 
"public,"  has  dwindled,  in  five  years,  to  a  mean  tippling  shop. 
From  this  spot,  we  looked  along  the  street,  and  a  gayer  or 
more  various  scene  cannot  easily  be  imagined.  Men  of  busi- 
ness were  hurrying  along  the  side  walks,  jostling  the  leisurely 
moving  free  black,  or  the  shop  keeper  smoking  at  his  own 
door  ;  the  native  military  officers  were  deliberately  striding 
about  with  an  important,  arrogant  air,  the  calexas  (or  calecas) 
and  seges  were  rattling  along  by  dint  of  lashing  and  spurring 
the  mules — the  high  boots  with  hcav)r  soles  and  heels,  armed 
with  plated  spurs,  the  glazed  leather  hat  and  high  cockade, 
distinguish  the  cale$ero  from  every  other  kind  of  servant  in 
the  city — gangs  of  slaves,  united  by  iron  collars  and  chains 
ten  or  twelve  feet  in  length,  were  trotting  along,  with  bags  of 
coffee  or  sugar  on  their  heads,  endeavouring  to  drown  the  sad 
clanking  of  their  irons,  in  the  notes  of  a  song  and  chorus, 
which,  in  happier  times,  they  may  have  sung  beneath  their 
native  shades.  Each  one  of  these  gangs  was  followed  by  a 
black  soldier,  carrying  an  unsheathed  bayonet  in  one  hand  and 
a  heavy  whip  in  the  other.  Next,  we  saw  approaching,  a  gay 
palanquin,  borne  by  two  slaves  at  a  short  trot.  Presently  it 
rested  in  front  of  a  store,  and  a  sallow  female  hand,  covered 
with  jewels,  pushed  aside  the  velvet  curtains,  and  the  vender 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  27 

of  tapes  and  laces  ran  from  his  counter  and  bowed  obsequi- 
ously. Immediately,  there  was  an  Italage  of  stuffs  of  various 
kinds,  and  the  marchand  was  eulogizing  his  goods  and  bar- 
gain, bowing  the  whole  time.  The  lady  purchased  or  rejected 
something — I  saw  no  purse  ;  the  curtain  again  hid  the  hand 
and  the  jewels; — the  slaves  trotted  on  with  their  mistress. 
Whiz,  flew  a  rocket,  and  snap,  crack,  crack,  exploded  a  bunch 
of  squibs  from  amidst  a  crowd  of  half  naked  negro  boys,  who 
moved  along  with  an  unmeaning  shout.  Then  came  a  fat  sal- 
low looking  priest,  under  a  broad  brimmed  hat,  rolled  up  at 
the  sides,  with  a  long  silken  cord  terminated  in  a  tassel  hang- 
ing down  his  back.  He  wore  a  long  silk  robe  or  gown,  and  a 
pair  of  heavy  shoes  with  large  buckles.  Close  after  him  moved, 
in  short  struts,  a  precocious  Brazilian  dandy,  of  Lilliputian 
stature,  perhaps  fourteen  years  old,  and  attired  like  a  man  of 
twenty-five  ;  wearing  a  stick  in  one  hand,  and  carrying  a  satchel 
in  the  other;  he  stepped  along,  in  imminent  danger  of  disap- 
pearing beneath  his  cocked  hat  that  towered  over  his  head  like 
an  extinguisher,  though  worn  for  distinction.  Then  followed 
a  dozen  slaves  or  water  carriers,  all  naked.  The  next  figure, 
was  that  of  a  portly  sedate  looking  gentleman  whose  moon 
formed  countenance  stood  forth  to  assert  his  claims  to  the  cha- 
racter of  a  bon  vivant  of  imperturbable  equanimity.  He  wore 
a  cocked  hat  with  ostrich  feather  trimming,  a  broad  tailed  coat, 
vest  with  capacious  pockets,  neat  unmentionables,  all  of  black, 
buckled  at  the  knee  over  a  pair  of  red  silk  ribbed  hose,  and  a 
pair  of  square  toed  shoes  with  huge  paste  buckles.  One  of  his 
hands,  with  ruffle  round  the  wrist,  holding  a  glove,  he  carried 
behind  him,  while  the  other — gloved — swung  a  gold  mounted 
stick  from  the  Moluccas,  which  he  struck  on  the  pavement  at 
almost  every  step  his  gently  stooped  figure  advanced.  This 
was  a  congressman — an  M.  P. 

"This  gay  scene  indicates  a  business  like  disposition  in  the 
people  ;  but  the  clank  of  those  chains,  clouds  the  pleasing  re- 
flections otherwise  excited.  The  slaves  cannot  be  treated  here 
with  humanity?" 

"My  dear  Sir,"  replied  Brunner,  "you  are  mistaken. 
Slaves  in  this  country  are  treated  with  the  greatest  humanity 


28  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC 

and  kindness,  and  in  many  cases  are  even  too  much  indulged. 
Those  negroes  who  have  just  passed  us  arc  government  slaves, 
who  have  become  public  property  through  the  agency  of  their 
own  crimes.  Every  one  of  them  has  committed  either  assault, 
robbery,  or  murder.  Taking  away  life  is  a  punishment  hardly 
known  in  Brazil.  When  a  negro  is  convicted  of  any  outrage, 
or  infraction  of  the  law,  he  is  usually  sentenced  to  labor  in 
chains  for  a  limited  period,  at  the  expiration  of  which  he  is  re- 
turned to  his  master." 

"Does  the  master  receive  no  compensation  for  the  services 
of  the  slave  in  the  mean  time?" 

"  No.  They  say  the  loss  is  a  just  punishment  for  not  having 
taught  the  slave  better." 

"Are  these  convicts  hired  to  individuals  by  the  govern- 
ment, or  is  there  any  public  work  on  which  they  are  em- 
ployed ?" 

"The  custom  house  employs  many  of  them,  many  are  em- 
ployed as  scavengers,  and  some  in  levelling  hills  and  blasting 
rocks  in  the  suburbs." 

We  walked  slowly  on,  and  turned  up  the  "  Rua  d'Ouvidor," 
which  is  lined  with  fancy  stores  and  shops  of  the  French  "mo- 
distes." Next  to  the  "Rua  Direita,"  it  is  perhaps  the  busiest 
and  most  fashionable.  It  leads  to  the  theatre  and  opera  house. 
The  emperor  was  wont  to  dash  through  it,  occasionally  driving, 
with  his  own  imperial  hands,  four  grays  of  exquisite  beauty, 
headed  by  his  trumpeter,  and  followed  by  a  cavalry  guard  ; — 
then  off  flew  every  hat,  and  every  body  stood  aside  to  let  the 
imperial  coachman  pass. 

My  attention  was  attracted  by  a  crowd  of  negroes  in  the 
street,  in  the  midst  of  which  one  was  dancing  to  the  sound  of 
a  rude  instrument,  accompanied  by  the  voice.  "  What  is  this?" 
I  asked  my  companion. 

"  Nothing  more  than  a  few  idle  negroes  of  the  neighborhood, 
assembled  together  to  dance  the  '  guachambo,'  a  sort  of  fandan- 
go, to  the  sound  of  the  'marimba,'  which  claims  Africa  as  the 
country  of  its  invention."  It  is  generally  made  of  some  light 
species  of  wood,  and  may  be  compared  to  the  toe  part  of  a 
shoe.   On  the  flat  side,  or  sole  part,  arc  secured  nearly  in  their 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  29 

centres,  eight  pieces  of  steel  wire  about  six  inches  long;  their 
ends  curve  upwards,  and  being  of  different  lengths,  form  an 
octave.  The  longer  ends  of  these  keys  play  free,  and  when 
touched,  vibrate  a  sleepy  sort  of  note,  which  can  hardly  be 
called  disagreeable.  The  instrument  is  clasped  between  the 
hands,  hanging  down  in  front,  and  is  played  upon  by  the 
thumbs.  There  is  another  form  of  the  "marimba,"  in  which 
the  keys  are  placed  on  a  thin  piece  of  board  ;  this  is  secured  to 
a  thinly  scraped  cocoanut  shell,  and  is  the  better  kind,  sound- 
ing much  clearer,  and  more  musical.  The  servants,  (porters) 
who  are  always  seated  at  the  doors  of  private  dwellings — 
which  by  the  by  always  have  the  family  coach  standing  at  the 
foot  of  the  stairs,  on  the  lower  floor,  fitted  for  the  purpose,  by 
way  of  demonstrating  the  quality  of  the  master — pass  hours 
together,  nodding  over  their  own  music,  produced  with  about 
the  same  effort  required  to  twirl  the  thumbs  ; — playing  on  the 
"  marimba"  is  just  one  degree  beyond  "  dolcefar  niente." 

When  we  came  up,  the  dancing  had  ceased,  and  the  blacks 
were  making  way  for  us  to  pass.  I  called  the  musician,  that  I 
might  examine  his  instrument.  He  grinned,  and  appeared  gra- 
tified by  the  notice  taken  of  him.  He  was  young  and  full  of 
health,  but  with  a  most  stupid  expression  of  countenance,  pro- 
duced by  a  chain  of  fleshy  nodules  extending  from  the  point  of 
his  nose  in  a  line  over  his  forehead  ;  when  his  attention  was 
not  otherwise  engaged,  his  eyes  were  always  directed  towards 
this  distinguishing  mark.  At  our  request,  he  played  a  lively 
air,  and  accompanied  himself  with  a  short  see-saw  motion  of 
the  body.  So  soon  as  he  commenced,  all  the  negroes  drew 
nearer  and  nearer,  till  we  were  completely  encircled  by  grin- 
ning spectators.  I  inquired  into  the  origin  of  the  bumps,  and 
Brunner  informed  me  that  it  is  a  species  of  tatooing,  done  in 
infancy  by  their  parents,  designed  as  the  distinguishing  mark 
of  the  tribe.  He  pointed  out  in  the  crowd  around  us,  one  whose 
face  was  scratched  or  gashed  on  one  cheek  ;  one  marked  in  the 
same  way  on  both  cheeks  ;  some  on  their  temples  ;  some  on 
their  breasts  and  backs  ;  and  there  was  one  who  had  each  of 
his  teeth  cut  off  diagonally,  so  as  to  make  them  serrated  or 


30  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE  PACIFIC. 

saw-like.  Common  misery  lias  not  caused  the  negroes  to  for- 
get the  feuds  of  their  tribes,  for  they  have  brought  mutual  and 
perhaps  hereditary  hatred  with  them,  and  it  is  supposed  that 
the  safety  of  the  whites,  whose  numbers  are  very  small,  de- 
pends upon  this  circumstance.  Though  this  may  be  partially 
true,  I  suspect  that  apathy,  which  is  a  characteristic  of  the 
African  races,  is  the  reason  why  they  do  not  rise  up  en  masse 
and  destroy  their  masters. 

Next  we  looked  into  an  hotel  kept  by  an  Englishman  ;  it  is 
the  best — the  worst — the  only  one  of  the  kind  in  the  place  ;  it 
is  entirely  supported  by  foreigners — natives  rarely  visit  pub- 
lie  inns.  After  looking  round  for  a  moment,  and  noticing  a 
sign  over  the  door,  announcing  that  "  bains  chauds"  might  be 
procured,  we  returned  to  the  "Rua  d'Ourives,"  which  is  en- 
tirely occupied  by  silver-smiths,  jewellers,  and  lapidaries,  and 
following  its  course  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  turned  to  the  right, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  entered  the  counting  house  of  my  friend. 

We  found  several  gentlemen  conversing  about  the  change 
that  had  then  just  taken  place  in  the  political  state  of  Brazil. 
When  the  usual  salutation  was  over,  the  subject  was  resumed. 

"  What  do  you  say  were  the  circumstances,"  asked  a  gen- 
tleman of  the  party,  addressing  himself  to  Brunner,  "that  led 
to  the  abdication  ?" 

"  There  were  perhaps  several,"  replied  Brunner,  "that  may 
be  considered  as  conducing  to  that  end.  A  jealousy  has  long  ex- 
isted between  the  native  Brazilians  and  the  Portuguese,  which 
was  originally  caused  and  kept  up  by  Dom  Pedro.  The  refu- 
gees, who  fled  from  the  proscription  and  tyrannical  wrath  of 
Dom  Miguel,  always  found  here,  not  only  protection  and  an 
asylum,  but  many  have  been  received  into  places  of  power  and 
emolument  under  the  government,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  Bra- 
zilians, who  were  not  slow  to  perceive  and  feel,  that  the  em- 
peror placed  more  confidence  in  them  than  in  his  own  subjects. 
lie  was  constantly  surrounded  by  them,  and  seemed  to  be  much 
influenced  by  their  advice  in  almost  every  thing.  Envious  of 
the  distinction  and  honors  heaped  upon  these  foreigners,  as  the 
inhabitants  of  Portugal  were  termed,  the  natives  conceived 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  31 

themselves  injured,  and  gave  a  voice  to  their  grievances.  Mur- 
murs grew  into  complaints,  and  representations  were  made 
which  passed  unnoticed,  until  the  emperor  was  told,  in  pretty 
plain  terms,  that  he  must  change  his  ministry.  Even  this  step 
was  treated  with  contempt,  and  when  Dom  Pedro  thought 
seriously  of  regaining  the  confidence  of  the  people,  which  he 
had  lost,  it  was  too  late.  The  ministry  was  changed  and  re- 
changed  successively,  to  please  one  or  another  of  the  many 
political  parties  which,  as  a  consequence  to  the  state  of  things, 
sprung  forth  like  so  many  heads  from  that  political  hydra — 
public  discontent.  These  parties  were  composed  of  people  who 
had  their  views  in  elevating  certain  persons  to  a  place  near  the 
throne.  The  public  ear  was  occupied  by  vague  and  contradic- 
tory rumors  and  reports  ;  and  the  minds  of  the  people  became 
filled  with  uncertainty  and  alarm.  Among  other  groundless 
and  ridiculous  reports,  was  one  that  there  was  a  design  against 
the  constitution,  and  the  liberties  of  the  people — that  this  con- 
spiracy was  the  plotting  of  the  Portuguese ;  and,  however  pre- 
posterous and  unreasonable  it  may  appear,  it  was  said  that  Dom 
Pedro  was  at  the  head  of  it  ! 

"  The  emperor,  about  this  time,  had  been  on  a  visit  of  in- 
spection to  a  neighboring  province,  and  under  the  pretext  of 
receiving  him,  on  the  day  of  his  return,  the  refugees,  with 
many  Portuguese  who  have  been  long  residing  here,  paraded 
the  streets  with  arms,  in  squads  of  forty  or  fifty,  uttering  cries 
which  were  highly  irritating  to  the  feelings  of  the  natives,  and 
even  looked  upon  by  them  as  seditious.  The  Brazilians  were 
exasperated,  and  attempted  to  put  down  the  obnoxious  party 
by  force,  and  in  consequence  several  skirmishes  took  place  in 
the  streets,  and  several  lives  were  lost  on  both  sides.  This 
happened  on  the  thirteenth,  fourteenth,  and  fifteenth  of  March. 
The  shops  were  shut  up  ;  foreigners  thought  of  taking  refuge, 
with  their  effects,  on  board  of  the  men-of-war  of  their  respec- 
tive nations  ;  and  all  business  was  suspended  for  several  days. 

"  With  a  view  of  restoring  peace,  or  of  obtaining  at  least  a 
cessation  of  hostilities  amongst  all  parties,  and  of  soothing  and 
tranquillizing  the  public  mind,  the  emperor  at  once  appointed 


32  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

a  new  ministry,  composed  entirely  of  Brazilians  whose  liberal 
sentiments  were  universally  acknowledged.  This  step  was 
popular,  and  public  order  was  again  restored,  but  was  short 
lived.  Tbe  ministry  was  again  changed  for  men  who  were  ex- 
Iremely  obnoxious  to  the  Brazilian  party.  The  greatest  anx- 
iety was  now  manifested  by  all  classes  of  citizens.  Expressions 
of  their  indignation,  warmly  and  publicly  spoken,  followed, 
and  great  numbers,  as  if  by  common  consent,  assembled  in  the 
'  Campo  Santa  Ana,'  since  called  the  '  Praca  (VJicchnna- 
gdo.'  A  deputation  was  sent  from  them  to  the  emperor,  urging 
him,  if  he  wished  to  preserve  order  and  avoid  civil  war  and 
bloodshed,  to  dismiss  the  Portuguese  ministry,  and  reinstate 
that  which  he  had  last  deposed.  In  spite  of  the  entreaties  of 
General  Lima,  the  military  commandant  of  the  province,  who 
was  in  high  favor  with  the  people,  and  of  the  tears  of  the  em- 
press, he  refused  the  request  of  the  deputation,  and  obstinately 
adhered  to  his  resolution.  The  emperor's  reply,  endorsed  by 
the  ministry,  and  the  order  for  the  mob  to  disperse,  was 
scarcely  read,  before  it  was  torn  to  pieces  and  trampled  under 
foot  !  The  troops  soon  began  to  take  part  with  the  people, 
who  were  now  armed  and  prepared  for  the  worst.  An  attack 
was  apparently  meditated  somewhere,  and  before  ten  o'clock 
that  night  even  the  body  guard  at  the  palace  had  gone  over 
and  joined  the  insurgents.  The  emperor  found  that  he  had  been 
deceived  by  his  courtiers,  who  had  relied  on  the  support  of  the 
army,  and  as  the  only  possible  means  remaining  of  preventing 
bloodshed,  and  restoring  tranquillity,  he  resolved  on  abdica- 
tion. In  this  dilemma  he  sought  the  aid  of  counsel  from  the 
British  and  French  legations,  and  received  the  Charges  late 
that  same  night  at  the  palace.  Exercising  the  power  given 
him  by  the  constitution,  he  abdicated  in  favor  of  his  son  Uom 
Pedro  de  Alcantara,  under  the  title  of  Pedro  II  !  This 
last  act  was  received,  early  on  the  morning  of  the  seventh  of 
April,  with  joyful  acclamations,  and  the  same  day,  before  eight 
o'clock,  having  hastily  collected  what  money  and  valuables  he 
could,  the  ex-einpcror,  with  the  empress  and  the  young  queen 
of  Portugal,  embarked  privately  on  board  of  II.  B.  M.  line-of- 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  33 

battle  Ship  Warspite,  leaving  the  young  emperor  and  princesses, 
at  the  palace  of  San  Christovao  !* 

"The  national  assembly  had  been  ordered  by  the  emperor 
to  convene,  and  though  many  members  had  not  yet  arrived  in 
town,  they  met,  and  according  to  the  constitution,  appointed 
a  regency,  to  administer  the  government  and  laws  during  the 
minority.  On  the  9th  of  April,  the  young  emperor,  Dom  Pe- 
dro II.,  made  his  public  entry  into  the  city,  amidst  the  shouts 
and  'vivas' of  the  populace.  A  due  quantity  of  gunpowder  and 
rockets,  as  is  usual  on  all  great  occasions,  were  expended,  to 
manifest  the  public  loyalty  to  the  new  sovereign. 

"  Tranquillity  was  again  restored.  The  emperor  in  a  few 
days  set  sail  for  England,  on  board  of  H.  B.  M.  Frigate  Vo- 
lage,  and  the  young  queen  of  Portugal  on  board  of  the  French 
Corvette  La  Seine." 

"  Then  I  presume  every  thing  is  now  quiet  ?" 

"Not  perfectly  so — there  is  a  party  in  favor  of  a  republic, 
but  it  will  die.  Every  body  who  knows  any  thing  of  the  ex- 
tent and  resources  of  Brazil,  must  decide  against  it.  Two  mu- 
lattoes,  who  were  educated  in  France  by  the  emperor,  are  said 
to  be  the  leaders  of  the  republican  party." 

"Did  property  sustain  any  injury  from  the  rioters  or  insur- 
gents during  the  disturbance  ?" 

"Not  at  all.  The  Brazilians  are  a  pacifiqiie.  people,  and 
would  rader  enjoy  der  right  by  courtesy  dan,  by  force,"  re- 
marked an  old  gentleman,  who  until  this  moment  had  been 


*  The  emperor,  in  his  real  character  of  nonchalance,  was  seen,  before  he  left 
the  harbor,  eagerly  employed  catching  fish  ! 

"Dom  Pedro  was  born  at  Lisbon,  on  the  12th  of  October,  1T98;  he  was  the 
second  son  of  Dom  John  VI.  and  of  Carlota  Joaquina,  daughter  of  Charles  IV. 
of  Spain  ;  but  by  the  premature  death  of  his  elder  brother,  Antonio,  he  be- 
came heir-presumptive  to  the  crown.  He  was  of  a  weakly  temperament  when 
a  child,  but  showed  early  some  of  that  vivacity  of  character  which  has  since 
distinguished  him.  He  was  educated  by  the  Padre  Antonio  d'Arrabida,  an  in- 
telligent ecclesiastic,  who  early  impressed  him  with  sentiments  of  religion,  for 
which  he  is  still  distinguished ,-  but  his  education  was  in  nothing  else  remarka- 
ble, except  that,  in  common  with  his  sisters,  he  acquired  some  knowledge  of 
Latin,  which  he  has  not  yet  forgotten." — Walsh.  Notices  of  Brazil.  Vol.1. 
London,  1830. 

5 


34  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

silent.  tl  Pah!  Vat  can  dese  miserable  devil  do — when  dcy 
have  de  arms  dcy  put  de  ball  into  de  gun  first,  and  den  de  pou- 
dre — vat  use  is  dat  7  eh  !"  He  accompanied  the  concluding 
question  with  a  shrug  of  the  shoulders,  and  an  elevation  of  his 
brows,  that  threw  his  forehead  into  transverse  wrinkles  ;  and 
take  him  altogether,  the  speakerlooked  like  a  mammoth  note 
of  interrogation. 

"Then  the  conflicts  were  not  very  bloody,  I  presume?" 

"Bloody  !"  exclaimed  the  old  man,  changing  his  posture 
and  features  till  he  resembled  in  some  degree  an  interjection, 
"I  tell  you,  Sure,  one  hundred  good  men  vill  take  de  town 
any  time.  Dcy  allow  fifty  black  rascal  to  run  about  de  street 
widout  opposition,  and  cut  de  troat  of  de  women,  vile  de  sodger 
run  in  de  house  and  lock  de  door  !    Bloody — vy  !  Sare,  dey 

are  d d  coward,  and  as  to  de  property,  dey  are  afraid  to 

steal  it !"  As  he  concluded,  he  made  his  exit  by  a  back  door. 

"The  regency,  I  believe,  is  a  trinity,  or  triumvirate,  or  tri- 
umviracy  ?" 

"Yes  !  It  is  composed  of  three  members  of  the  general  as- 
sembly, elected  by  that  body,  the  eldest  of  the  three  being  the 
president.  All  decrees  and  laws  are  issued  by  the  regency,  in 
the  name  of  the  emperor.  The  following  are  the  regents  and 
present  ministry. 

Regency. 

Francisco  de  Lima  e  Silva,  } 

Jos6  da  Costa  Carvalho,  >  Regents. 

Joilo  Braulio  Muniz,  ) 

Jose  Bonifacio  d'Andrada — Tutor  to  the  Emperor. 

Ministers. 

Home  Department,  Jos6  Linho  Coutinho. 
Foreign  Jlffairs,        Francisco  Carneivo  de  Campos. 
Justice,  Diogo  Antonio  Feijo. 

War,  Jos6  Manuel  de  Moraes. 

Navy,  Jos6  Manuel  de  Almeida. 

Treasury,  Antonio  Homen  do  Amaral. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  35 

11  Andrada,  one  of  the  most  popular,  as  well  as  learned  men 
in  the  country,  was  named  by  the  emperor  ;  which  is  an  impe- 
rial prerogative,  granted  by  the  constitution,  on  the  vacation 
of  the  throne,  either  by  death  or  abdication."* 

At  this  moment  the  old  gentleman  returned.  He  was  about 
five  feet  high,  broad  across  the  shoulders,  and  rather  corpulent. 
His  head  was  small,  covered  with  a  short  stubborn  growth  of 
black  and  gray  hair — his  forehead  rather  low,  with  bushy  eye- 
brows— small  twinkling  black  eyes,  well  set  into  his  head — 
nose  somewhat  pug — and  a  large  mouth  filled  with  fine  teeth. 
A  constant  smile  played  over  the  old  man's  weather-beaten 
countenance.  Though  near  sixty  years  old,  he  displayed  great 
animation  of  manner — it  might  almost  be  called  fidgetty — and 
you  at  once  conceded  that  he  was  a  fine  little  old  fellow.  He 
wore  a  short  gray  frock  coat,  with  black  velvet  collar  and  trim- 
mings— black  vest — and  blue  pantaloons,  over  laced  boots. 
When  he  listened,  he  thrust  his  hands  into  his  pockets,  and 
alternately  raised  and  let  himself  down  from  his  tiptoes,  throw- 
ing his  head  to  one  side,  and  seemed  ready  to  laugh  in  your 
face.  His  speech  was  generally  broken,  and  he  snapped  his 
fingers,  threw  up  his  eyebrows,  and  sometimes  his  shoulders 
were  raised  so  slowly  and  significantly,  that  you  might  very 
reasonably  entertain  fears  that  his  head  would  disappear  be- 
tween them,  like  a  turtle's  into  its  shell  ;  and  this  was  all  by 
the  way  of  punctuation. 

Brunner  presented  me  to  this  gentleman  as  Dom  Bento,  his 
father-in-law.  He  drew  me  by  the  hand,  and  turning  his  head, 
said  "come  gentlemen,  de  soup  is  ready."  He  led  me  into  a 
dining  room,  and  continued,  "  here  we  take  our  lunch,  or  soup,  it 
being  too  far  from  our  dwelling  to  return  to  the  counting-house 
after  dinner,  and  too  long  to  fast  from  eight  in  the  morning  till 
sunset."  All  the  merchants,  at  least  the  foreign  ones,  adopt 
this  plan.  About  a  dozen  persons  sat  down,  besides  several 
clerks.  The  repast  consisted  of  soup  and  bouillie,  with  yams, 
&c.  and  wine  and  fruit. 


•  In  December  1833,  he  became  somewhat  unpopular,  and  one  party  was 
anxious  that  he  should  resign,  but  he  positively  refused. 


36  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Museum — Aqueduct — Banana  tree — Farinha — Policemen — Slave  of  a  natural- 
ist— Casa  da  Agua. 

The  Museum  is  open  daily  to  the  public,  from  twelve  until 
two  o'clock,  and,  as  it  should  be  every  where  with  institutions 
of  the  kind,  the  admission  is  free  to  every  body.  Brunner  and 
I  visited  it,  however,  early  in  the  morning,  by  special  favor. 
The  utility  of  a  national  museum,  where  access  may  be  had  at 
all  proper  times,  free  of  expense,  is  incalculable  ;  and  particu- 
larly to  a  country,  which  depends,  like  ours,  upon  the  general 
information  of  its  inhabitants  for  the  existence  of  its  govern- 
ment. Our  optics  collect  much  more  rapidly,  and  preserve 
more  faithfully,  information  or  knowledge,  than  any  of  our 
senses,  and  what  is  thus  once  acquired  is  seldom  forgotten.  A 
museum  established  under  proper  regulations,  would  create  a 
taste  for  natural  science,  and  enable  talent,  in  the  most  indigent 
circumstances,  to  gain  knowledge  which  could  hardly  fail  to 
make  the  possessor  a  better  man,  and  a  more  useful  member  of 
society. 

This  collection  occupies  several  rooms,  communicating  with 
each  other,  in  the  second  story  of  a  building  at  the  corner  of 
the  Praga  d'Acclama^ao.  The  cabinet  of  minerals  is  certainly 
a  very  good  one;  probably  equal  to  any  one  on  this  continent 
in  the  metallic  specimens  and  precious  stones.  The  birds  are 
badly  prepared,  most  of  them  being  without  eyes,  and  many 
are  lying  on  their  sides.  The  curators  are  at  present  (1S31,) 
arranging  them  according  to  the  classification  by  Cuvier.  The 
native  Indian  curiosities  are  numerous;  some  of  the  war  dress- 
es, which  are  composed  of  feathers  of  many  brilliant  colors, 
are  really  beautiful.  Besides  these,  which  are  of  chief  interest, 
being  of  this  country,  there  are  many  foreign  curiosities  and 
specimens  of  natural  history.  In  one  of  the  apartments  there 
are  several  very  good  pictures,  and  two  or  three  Sarcophagi. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  37 

During  our  visit,  every  attention  was  extended  to  us,  and  I  left, 
deeply  impressed  with  the  kindness  and  urbanity  of  the  cura- 
tors. 

We  passed  along  one  side  of  the  "  Campo  Santa  Ana,"  now 
called  the  "  Acclamacao,"  towards  the  Aqueduct.  After  turn- 
ing two  or  three  streets,  which  are  not  so  much  frequented  as 
either  the  Rua  d'Ouvidor,  or  Rua  Direita,  we  came  beneath 
that  part  of  this  great  work  which  is  carried  over  a  valley  two 
hundred  yards  wide,  supported  on  two  rows  of  arches,  one 
resting  upon  the  other,  at  a  height  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet.  In 
the  streets  through  which  we  had  just  walked,  I  observed  that 
a  favorite  pastime  with  a  large  part  of  the  female  community, 
is  to  loll  out  of  the  window,  supporting  the  trellis  shutter,  which 
opens  upwards,  against  the  head.  Thus  every  thing  falls  under 
their  notice,  while  they  are  quite  per  dues,  except  to  persons  on 
the  same  side  of  the  street.  This  habit  is  not  confined  to  fe- 
males alone.  Men,  almost  en  cuerpo,  are  often  seen  idling  in 
this  way  for  hours  together.  In  this  climate,  trellis  shutters 
supply  the  place  of  blinds  and  sash. 

We  turned  to  the  right,  and  ascending  the  hill  towards  the 
Corcovado,  passed  a  number  of  negresses,  washing  and  spread- 
ing out  their  clothes  upon  the  grass  to  bleach.  On  the  summit 
of  this  hill,  which  is  at  least  two  hundred  feet  high,  stands  the 
convent  of  Santa  Teressa.  The  windows  are  barred,  and  trel- 
lised,  and  sashed  so  securely  as  almost  to  exclude  the  air  and 
even  the  light  of  day.  Near  this  spot  the  Aqueduct  makes  an 
angle  in  which  there  is  built  a  hut. 

"The  negroes  who  live  in  this  cottage,"  said  Brunner, 
"  spend  time  in  drowzy  laziness.  All  their  wants  being  sup- 
plied by  their  garden,  they  seldom  descend  to  the  city." 

"But  they  must  labor  at  certain  seasons  to  make  that  pro- 
duce?" 

"Not  so.  The  soil  is  so  fertile,  that,  with  little  more  exer- 
tion or  attention  than  is  required  to  cast  the  seed  upon  it,  a 
plentiful  crop  is  produced  '." 

"But  this  little  spot  will  not — cannot  yield  them  their  en- 
tire sustenance ;  it  may  provide  fruit  and  vegetables,  but  they 
also  require  bread  and  animal  food  ?" 


38  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"They  seldom  see  bread  or  meat,  unless  it  be  in  the  form 
of  *  farinha'  or  tapioca,  and  this  a  little  labor  supplies;  if  they 
do  not  get  it,  for  those  who  have  so  few  wants,  the  banana 
forms  a  substitute. "  The  banana  requiring  neither  care  nor  toil 
in  cultivation,  becomes  as  useful  as  wheat  itself.*  A  few 
months  are  sufficient  to  produce  the  fruit  from  the  sucker  (by 
which  it  is  propagated),  and  all  the  attention  necessary,  is  to 
soften  the  soil  about  its  roots,  and  every  year  or  two,  cut  off 
those  stocks  which  have  been  productive.  When  green,  the  fruit 
will  yield  a  species  of  flour  equal  to  that  of  rice;  when  ripe, 
it  is  delicious  to  the  palate,  and  highly  nutritious.  Eight  or 
ten  large  bananas  are  sufficient  food  for  a  man  during  a  whole 
day.  This  plant  not  only  affords  bread  and  fruit,  but  also  a 
very  fine  sugar  may  be  extracted  from  the  latter.  It  enables 
man  to  live  almost  without  labor,  and  its  ample  leaves  shade 
him  from  a  tropical  sun. 

It  is  really  a  beautiful  plant.  It  grows  about  twelve  feet 
high ;  its  branches  or  leaves  are  a  foot  broad,  and  from  six  to 
eight  feet  long;  they  unite  at  the  base,  and  spread  asunder  at 
the  top.  When  the  leaf  first  appears,  it  is  rolled,  and  rises  from 
amidst  those  which  are  already  expanded  ;  and  when  mature, 
unfolds  itself  into  a  spathe,  and  droops  with  the  rest.  The 
fruit  is  produced  in  a  large  conical  or  pear-shaped  mass  at  the 
end  of  the  stalk,  which  bends  towards  the  earth  by  its  weight 
This  mass  consists  of  loricating  leaves,  which  enclose  the  young 
fruit.  As  it  ripens,  the  leaves  curl  up  and  drop  off,  disclosing 
a  circle  of  bananas,  attached  by  their  bases  to  the  stalk  ;  the 
second  and  third  circle  appear,  but  smaller  than  the  first,  be- 
cause the  nutritive  juices  are  less,  and  at  last  the  stalk  is  termi- 
nated with  a  plummet-shaped  end  and  abortive  blossoms.  At 
first  the  color  of  the  fruit  is  green  ;  but  as  it  ripens,  turns  yel- 
low— a  beautiful  king's  yellow — which  contrasts  finely  with 
the  clear  maize  green  of  the  leaves. 

"  In  my  walks  through  the  city,  I  have  seen  a  great  deal  of 
the  *  farinha'  you  speak  of,  and  I  am  told,  it  forms  a  chief  arti- 
cle of  diet  with  the  slave  population." 

•  See  Humboldt's  New  Spain.  Dennis.  Histoire  du  Bre'sH. 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  39 

"  It  is  not  only  extensively  used  by  the  slaves  and  lower 
classes  of  whites  in  Rio,  but  forms  a  standing  dish  on  the  tables 
of  the  rich,  made  into  various  deserts.  This  Jatropha  Mani- 
hot  is  the  great  substitute  for  all  bread  stuffs.  It  is  prepared 
without  trouble,  and  will  keep  for  any  length  of  time  without 
suffering  from  the  attacks  of  insects." 

We  followed  the  Aqueduct  in  its  windings  and  ascents  for 
two  miles,  and  passed  by  a  hut  of  reeds  and  mud,  built  on  the 
very  verge  of  the  precipice.  Before  the  door,  which  faced  the 
Aqueduct,  were  extended  on  the  ground,  two  men,  resting  their 
heads  on  their  hands,  with  the  elbow  on  the  earth.  They 
were  listless,  drowsy,  lazy.  Beside  them  were  two  or  three 
hounds,  their  long  Spanish  or  Portuguese  fowling  pieces  and 
knives.  A  third  man  was  leaning  against  the  hut,  sustaining 
a  pipe  with  his  left  hand,  while  his  right  was  applied  across 
his  breast  to  support  his  left  elbow.  His  eyes  were  fixed  upon 
the  ground.  A  little  beyond  the  hut  were  two  slaves,  chained 
together  by  the  ankles,  sweeping  the  path  ;  they  were  entirely 
naked,  with  the  exception  of  the  loins,  which  were  girded  with 
a  piece  of  blue  cotton  stuff.  Their  masters  wore  large  trowsers 
of  no  definite  color,  with  shirts  which  had  once  been  white, 
but  from  negligent  ablution,  or  no  ablution,  now  appeared  of 
a  smoky  yellow.  They  had  neither  caps  nor  shoes ;  one  of  the 
recumbents,  however,  held  his  toes  in  a  pair  of  slippers. 

When  we  came  up,  the  dogs  commenced  growling  and  mut- 
tering, and  rolling  their  eyes  upon  us,  but  without  raising  their 
long  noses  from  the  ground.  The  man  lying  nearest  the  path, 
laid  his  hand  upon  the  collar  of  one  of  them,  and  they  all  be- 
came quiet.  When  we  were  near  enough  to  have  trodden  on 
the  fellow,  he  slowly  drew  up  his  legs,  and  made  an  effort  to 
fish  with  his  toe  one  of  the  slippers,  which  was  dropped  in  the 
movement;  but  he  failed,  and  assuming  a  look  of  resignation, 
permitted  it  to  remain  at  the  risk  of  being  walked  over.  The 
one  leaning  against  the  house  raised  his  eyes,  and  scowling 
upon  us  from  under  a  profusion  of  black,  uncombed  hair,  mut- 
tered a  sort  of  salutation,  but  without  moving  a  muscle — the 
very  smoke  escaped  from  his  mouth  without  receiving  an  im- 
pulse. 


40  THIIEE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"  You  would  never  guess,"  said  Brunner,  "that  these  are 
the  police  or  watchmen,  stationed  here  to  prevent  robberies 
from  being  committed  by  runaway  slaves,  who  hide  themselves 
in  tbc  mountain  thickets,  and  elude  every  effort  made  to  appre- 
hend them." 

Just  before  arriving  at  the  hut  above  mentioned,  there  is  a 
break  in  the  Aqueduct,  and  the  path  changes  from  the  right 
to  the  left  side  of  the  work.  From  this  spot  we  enjoyed  a  most 
enchanting  bird's  eye  view.  To  the  northward  and  westward 
runs  a  valley, sprinkled  with  gardens  and  hamlets;  beyond  the 
vale,  rise  the  palace  of  San  Christovao,  and  the  chateau  of  the 
Marchioness  of  Santos;  a  lake  spreads  its  peaceful  waters  to 
the  scented  air ;  the  bay  is  filled  with  shipping,  and  dotted  with 
green  islands;  and  the  town  of  Praya  Grande,  in  miniature 
from  distance,  is  seen  on  the  opposite  shore.  On  the  other 
hand,  far  below,  is  a  deep  glen,  where  white  cottages  contrast 
with  the  deep  green  of  the  coffee  tree  and  the  gold  of  the 
orange ;  the  Sugar  Loaf  stood  high,  and  before  us  the  Corcova- 
do,  still  higher  and  wilder,  almost  overhung  our  path. 

**  Lakes,  forests,  cities,  plains  extending  wide, 

The  pomp  of  kings,  the  shepherd's  humble  pride." 

We  continued  our  walk.  The  path  was  less  beaten,  and  the 
sward  yielded  to  the  foot  like  the  richest  carpet.  The  whole 
way  was  "flowery,  wild  and  sweet."  All  was  hushed.  Our 
steps  frequently  disturbed  "the  green  and  speckled  lizards," 
that  darted  from  the  sunshine  of  the  path  and  side  of  the  Aque- 
duct, to  the  shade  of  their  retreats,  in  some  crevice  of  the 
work.  A  few  wild  notes  struck  the  ear,  and  the  gay  winged 
butterflies  sported  in  seeming  dalliance  with  each  other,  ever 
and  anon  resting  upon  the  flowers,  which  in  every  direction 
were  blooming  around  us,  while  the  golden-crested  humming 
bird  sipped  the  nectar  which  nature  had  prepared.  But  man 
will  nut  permit  all  this  in  quiet.  The  cabinet  of  the  naturalist 
and  amateur  must  be  filled  with  "specimens,"  and  both  but- 
terfly and  bird  lose  their  lives  for  the  particolor  of  their  down, 
and  the  gay,  varying  tints  of  their  plumage. 

Presently  we  met  a  man  sweeping  a  gauze  net  through  the 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  41 

air,  and  pinning  the  insects  which  he  caught  upon  his  hat.  He 
was  a  tall,  raw-boned  mulatto,  under  a  broad  brimmed  hat, 
stuck  full  of  insects  writhing  and  fluttering  in  the  agonies  of 
death.  His  white  cotton  jacket  might  have  been  mistaken  for 
a  pincushion,  the  sleeves  and  lapels  were  so  full  of  pins. 
Though  barefooted,  he  was  tidy.  A  bag,  containing  gauze, 
thread,  &c,  for  a  net,  to  replace  that  on  his  pole,  should  it  be 
torn,  was  slung  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other,  a  large,  light 
wooden  box,  to  receive  his  game.  At  our  request  he  showed 
to  us  the  result  of  his  day's  excursion,  and  appeared  gratified 
by  our  notice  of  him  ;  his  box  was  half  full  of  butterflies  and 
various  insects. 

After  parting  with  him,  Brunner  asked  whether  I  thought 
this  man  badly  or  inhumanely  treated. 

"You  do  not  mean  to  say  that  this  man  is  a  slave?" 

"  He  is  a  slave,  and  belongs  to  a  German,  who  gains  a  living 
by  making  collections  of  birds,  insects,  shells,  &c,  which  he 
sells  to  travellers.  He  has  several  slaves  whom  he  has  taught 
to  prepare  these  specimens,  and  two  or  three  others  who  hawk 
them  about  the  streets." 

When  we  arrived  at  the  "Casa  da  Agua,"  which  is  four 
miles  from  the  city,  we  determined  to  rest.  The  "  Casa  da 
Agua"  is  a  covered  basin  or  receptacle  for  the  water,  which 
rushes  down  the  mountain  in  a  narrow  stream.  A  slab,  set  in 
the  wall,  bears  date  1744,  the  time  of  commencing  the  work, 
and  1807,  the  period  of  its  repair. 

Just  above  the  "  Casa  da  Agua"  is  a  broad  spreading  rock, 
in  the  surface  of  which,  are  several  slight  excavations,  filled 
with  limpid  water  by  tiny  rills  which  wander  from  the  main 
stream.  The  rocks  rise  nearly  perpendicular  around  this  spot; 
the  shade  was  perfect,  and  the  air  perfumed  with  sweet  odours. 

While  viewing  the  scene,  and  deliberating  whether,  in  spite 
of  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  we  should  continue  our  walk  to  the 
observatory  on  the  Corcovado,  still  a  thousand  feet  above  us, 
and  only  to  be  reached  by  a  long,  circuitous,  and  laborious 
path,  a  negro  parted  the  bushes  next  the  valley  below,  and 
stood  nearly  naked  before  us.  He  removed  a  piece  of  a  woollen 
cap  from  his  head,  in  token  of  respect,  and  saluted  us  with 
6 


42  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"Viva  Senhores,"  grinning  in  the  height  of  good  nature.  He 
might  have  been  forty  years  of  age ;  he  was  well  made,  and 
remarkably  athletic,  yet  his  figure  was  that  of  a  youth  of  twen- 
ty. His  temples  were  tatooed,  and  his  teeth  cut  off  diagonally. 
His  whole  dress  consisted  of  a  pair  of  coarse,  loose  breeches. 
We  asked  him  many  questions ;  he  told  us  that  he  had  been 
brought  from  Mozambique  when  young,  but  he  did  not  express 
any  desire  to  return,  nor  any  regret  for  the  loss  of  his  parents. 
With  some  hesitation  he  accepted  of  a  cigar,  and  it  was  some 
time  before  he  was  persuaded  to  light  it;  when  he  did,  how- 
ever, he  puffed  in  ecstacies,  and  I  concluded  that  he  had  never 
before  regaled  himself  with  a  real  Havana,  and  said  so.  Brun- 
ner  replied,  that  it  was  not  the  cigar  which  gave  him  pleasure, 
but  the  honor  which  he  conceived  he  was  receiving  at  our 
hands — in  all  probability  a  white  man  had  never  addressed 
him,  except  in  a  sharp,  imperative  tone. 

He  went  his  ways,  and  we  sat  ourselves  down  upon  the  rock 
and  lighted  our  cigars. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


The  Opera — The  Currency. 


The  night  on  which  I  visited  the  opera,  "  La  Italiana  in 
Algeri"  was  performed  in  a  masterly  style.  The  scenery  was 
good,  and  the  orchestra  full  and  efficient.  The  company  is 
composed  of  Italians,  brought  here  by  the  emperor,  Pedro  I. 
The  house  is  large,  and  contains  one  hundred  and  twelve 
boxes,  besides  the  imperial  box  which  fronts  the  stage.  The 
pit  is  extensive,  and  the  seats  are  separated  from  each  other, 
like  arm  chairs,  and  some  are  so  arranged  that  they  may  be 
kept  under  lock  and  key.  The  prompter  is  placed  in  front  of 
the  stage  so  conspicuously,  that  the  dramatic  illusion  is  in  a 
great  degree  lost.     A  box  or  wooden  hood  is  built  about  two 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  43 

feet  above  the  level  of  the  stage,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  stage 
lights,  intended  to  conceal  him,  but  answers  the  end  very 
badly,  for  as  his  eyes  follow  the  lines  of  his  book,  his  head, 
generally  covered  with  a  white  net  cap,  crowned  with  a  tassel, 
is  seen  moving  from  side  to  side ;  and  his  voice  sometimes  rises 
above  that  of  the  actors,  so  that  at  times,  they  seem  only  to 
gesticulate  while  he  reads.  The  house  is  dimly  lighted  with 
dingy  tallow  candles.  Order  is  preserved  and  enforced  by  a 
number  of  black  soldiers,  distributed  through  the  pit. 

The  house  was  full,  which  argued  much  in  favor  of  the  mu- 
sical taste  of  Brazil.  The  ladies  were  dressed  much  in  the 
style  of  our  own  belles,  and  wore  the  hair  high  on  the  top  of 
the  head,  ornamented  with  artificial  flowers  made  of  feathers ; 
these  are  beautiful,  and  are  the  best  imitation  of  natural  flowers 
I  have  seen  ;  they  are  made  in  the  convents  at  Bahia.  Jewelry 
is  more  fashionable  than  with  us.  Many  dark  eyes,  lively 
countenances,  and  fine  busts,  appeared  in  the  dress  row,  yet  I 
will  not  say  the  ladies  were  handsome ;  I  complained  of  the 
immoveable,  placid,  unmeaning  expression  of  most  of  the  faces, 
but  I  did  not  quarrel  with  the  brunettete  of  their  complexion. 
There  was  not  a  female  in  the  pit ;  negroes  and  whites  were 
promiscuously  mixed. 

After  the  opera  there  was  some  fine  dancing ;  but  according 
to  my  notion,  the  performers  should  diminish  the  extent  of 
their  genuflexions,  and  increase  the  thickness  and  longitude  of 
their  dresses  :  they  appeared, 

"  In  very  thin  clothing,  and  but  little  of  '^." 

This  over,  we  walked  into  the  coffee  room.  Blacks  and 
whites  were  gay  and  noisy,  eating  and  drinking  together,  ap- 
parently on  the  most  intimate  terms  of  equality.  We  next  as- 
cended to  a  small  bar  in  the  fourth  tier,  where  several  gentle- 
men were  refreshing  themselves  with  lemonade,  orgeat,  and 
similar  beverages.  The  Brazilians  are  a  temperate  people, 
seldom  drink  in  the  evening,  and  usually  confine  their  libations 
to  wine,  and  that,  Port.  The  annual  consumption  of  Oporto 
wine  is  32,000  pipes  of  145  gallons  each,  equal  to  4,640,000 
gallons !    The  import  duty  is  only  six  dollars  the  pipe. 


44  TIIREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

I  gave  the  bar  keeper  a  Spanish  dollar  to  pay  for  some  le- 
monade. He  balanced  it  on  his  finger  and  offered  to  change  it 
for  four  "petaks,"  which  is  little  more  than  one-half  of  its 
value.  I  insisted  that  it  was  worth  two  "  mil  reis,"  and  several 
native  gentlemen  present  told  him  the  same  thing,  but  it  was 
some  time  before  he  was  satisfied,  and  at  last  said,  "well,  I 
am  doing  this  at  a  great  risk,  and  I  fear  I  shall  lose  both  mo- 
ney and  lemonade." 

I  remarked  to  Brunner  that  there  appeared  to  be  a  great 
difficulty  in  the  rate  of  exchange. 

"Yes,"  he  replied,  "it  is  owing  to  the  fluctuating  value  of 
the  currency,  which  changes  almost  daily.  At  present  a  Spanish 
dollar  is  worth  seventy-two  *  vintems'  or  1,440  reis,  in  copper, 
and  2,000  reis  in  the  paper  of  the  bank  of  Brazil.  By  this 
you  will  find  that  copper  is  at  a  premium  of  about  38  per  cent. 
A  thousand  hard  dollars  will  be  received  in  trade  at  1,920  reis 
each,  but  to  purchase  the  same  number,  each  one  will  cost 
2,020  reis."' 

M  Then  it  is  necessary,  when  transacting  business,  to  be  al- 
ways well  informed  of  the  value  of  money.  I  have  noticed  in 
the  market,  that  money  has  a  different  value  at  stalls  only  a 
few  yards  apart,  and  in  order  to  avoid  difficulty,  it  is  best  to 
resort  to  the  money-changers,  who  give  copper  for  silver  at  a 
very  small  premium." 

"  Yes ;  but  you  lose  by  it.  They  say  that  copper  is  at  a  pre- 
mium of  33§  per  cent.,  and  when  they  change  a  note  of  10,000 
reis,  they  calculate  the  discount  on  that  amount  instead  of  the 
copper  which  you  receive,  and  thus  you  lose  about  400  reis." 

"Is  not  the  bank  paper  as  good  as  copper  ?  neither  can  be 
made  a  tender  out  of  the  country,  and  I  suppose  the  bank  will 
redeem  its  notes." 

"The  paper  never  will  be  redeemed  ;  though  it  is  said  that 
the  bank  has  sufficient  in  its  vaults  to  do  so.  The  copper  has 
an  intrinsic  value,  for  when  the  worst  comes  to  the  worst,  we 

•  December  1833.    The  exchange  has  risen  *  the  dollar  is  now  worth  only 
1,300  reis. 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  45 

can  make  it  into  pans,  and  besides,  to  the  northern  provinces 
it  is  nearly  a  par  remittance." 

"Then  the  bank  is  not  a  national  one?" 

"No!  It  was  chartered  to  a  company.  The  government 
became  indebted  to  it,  and  being  unable  to  pay,  assumed  the 
management  of  the  bank,  and  to  enhance  its  credit,  endorsed 
the  notes,  which  only  circulate  within  the  province  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro.     The  other  provinces  have  their  respective  banks." 

"  Still  I  do  not  understand  why  the  value  of  money  should 
change  almost  daily.  I  may  sell  goods  to-day  for  a  certain 
sum,  and  to-morrow  they  may  be  of  one-third  less  value." 

"  Such  is  the  fact.  This  fluctuation  is  only  attributable  to 
the  frequent  exportation  of  large  amounts  of  copper  to  the 
north." 

"  Then  the  bank  must  make  large  dividends  if  it  does  much 
business  ?" 

"  Technically  speaking,  the  bank  does  no  business  whatever. 
It  receives  deposites,  but  does  not  discount,  and  the  only  source 
of  profit  is  its  property,  and  the  loss  or  wearing  out  of  its 
notes." 

"  Goods  must  pay  a  handsome  advance  on  the  invoice  to 
yield  profit,  while  the  rate  of  exchange  is  so  high  ?" 

"  Such  would  be  the  case  if  remittances  were  made  to  the 
United  States  in  coin ;  this  country  affords,  however,  good 
returns  in  coffee,  hides,  sugars,  &c,  and  when  bills  are  wanted, 
they  are  always  negotiated  on  European  houses." 

The  inconvenience  which  would  have  resulted  in  the  United 
States,  from  the  establishment  of  the  small  money  unit,  pro- 
posed by  Robert  Morris,  the  financier,  is  practically  illustrated 
at  Rio.  A  dollar  at  par  contains  one  thousand  parts,  called 
"  reis,"  and  hence  the  dollar  is  termed  a  "  mil  rei."  A  trifling 
accompt,  to  persons  unacquainted  with  the  currency,  is  an 
alarming  document ;  the  gross  amount  of  a  bill  for  ten  dollars 
is  represented  by  five  figures.  This  makes  calculation  tedious, 
and  to  strangers  embarrassing.  Americans  require  their  bills 
reduced  to  dollars,  and  Englishmen  must  have  them  in  pounds, 
shillings,  and  pence,  before  they  understand  them. 


46  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

The  following  is  a  specimen  of  a  Brazilian  accompt,  render- 
ed by  the  English-speaking  clerk. 

Rio  Janeiro.  Dec:  1S33. 


■               —              ■           '   ■     XV  1  . 

To  Louzada  &  Ca. 

2         Duz'ns  Port  wine 

- 

8,000  rs. 

16,000  rs. 

1         Barel  Mackrels 

- 

- 

10,000  " 

3         Duz'ns  Claret 

- 

- 

15,000  " 

50    lb.  Indian  meal 

- 

- 

5,000  " 

h  "  Nutmegs 

- 

- 

1,600  « 

46£  "  Ham 

- 

280  rs. 

13,020  " 

5         Duz'ns  Fowls 

- 

7,500  " 

37,500  " 

500         Onons 

- 

1,S00  " 

9,000  " 

h  lb.  Asspice 

- 

- 

1,600  » 

23         Duz'ns  Eggs 

- 

360  " 

8,280  « 

68  lb.  Butter 

- 

320  " 

21,760  " 

Vegetables 

Total, 

13,000  " 

151,760  rs. 

"Dollars  at  1,280  reis,  makes  gllS-/^." 


CHAPTER  V. 

The  Botanic  Garden — A  Peep  at  Court. 

Early  one  morning  we  seated  ourselves  in  a  "caleca,"  and 
set  off  to  visit  the  Botanic  Garden.  The  "caleca"  is  a  kind  of 
gig  or  chaise,  which  has  the  body  hung  in  advance  of  the  axle, 
and  betwixt  a  pair  of  huge,  clumsy  wheels,  made  gaudy  with 
paint  and  gilt,  not  however  in  the  best  taste.  A  leather  curtain 
in  front  serves  to  screen  ladies  from  admiration,  and  gentle- 
men from  dust,  when  they  do  not  care  for  the  scenery  through 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  47 

which  they  ride.  To  this  vehicle  two  mules  are  harnessed 
abreast  ;  one  in  the  shafts,  and  the  other  on  the  outside,  to  bear 
the  "calecero,"  in  his  grotesque  livery  and  big  boots.  Though 
a  hackman,  he  wears  a  uniform,  which  is  sometimes  a  green 
coatee  with  red  trimmings  and  white  steel  buttons  ;  at  others, 
a  blue  coatee  with  yellow  collar  and  cuffs.  Armed  with  a 
heavily  loaded  whip,  he  bestrides  his  little  saddle,  and  lashes 
and  spurs  the  mules  from  the  start.  In  spite  of  appearances, 
however,  our  caleca  proved  to  be  a  very  commodious  and  easy- 
going carriage,  and  whirled  us  along  at  the  rate  of  five  or  six 
miles  the  hour. 

We  rolled  through  several  streets,  and  emerged  from  the 
city  upon  the  Praya  do  Flamingo,  whence  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  harbor  and  shipping.  Our  carriage  was  soon  passing  a 
handsome  chateau,  which  was  shut,  and  apparently  uninhabit- 
ed. This  was  one  of  the  ex-emperor's  retreats.  Next  we  came 
in  sight  of  the  peaceful  waters  of  Botafogo,  shut  in  and  almost 
land-locked  by  high  and  irregular  hills,  whose  shadows  were 
trembling  on  the  surface  of  the  bay,  now  glittering  in  the  first 
beams  of  the  rising  sun.  The  whole  shore  is  studded  with 
houses  and  gardens  ;  and  the  morning  air  came  perfumed  with 
flowers,  and  conveyed  delight  in  every  breath. 

• '  Not  all  the  charms,  that  ethnic  fancy  gave 
To  blessed  arbours  o'er  the  western  wave, 
Could  wake  a  dream  more  soothing  or  sublime, 
Of  bowers  ethereal  and  the  spirit's  clime  !" 

At  the  head  of  the  bay  we  turned  to  the  right.  The  country 
was  beautifully  picturesque.  About  four  miles  from  town  the 
road  lies  between  a  lake,  which  is  separated  from  the  ocean  by 
a  narrow  strip  of  land,  at  one  place  so  low  that  the  sea  not  un- 
frequently  finds  its  way  over  it,  and  the  irregular  hills  which 
terminate  in  the  almost  overhanging  Corcovado.  Tiny  rills 
gush  from  the  sides  of  the  mountain,  and  leap  in  miniature  cas- 
cades down  its  side,  fertilizing  the  ground  over  which  they 
pass.  From  this  spot  we  saw  a  large  square  mountain,  which 
is  considered  an  excellent  land  mark  in  making  the  harbor  of 
Rio  ;  from  its  supposed  resemblance  to  a  ship's  topsail,  it  is 


48  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

called  "la  gavia."  At  this  spot,  a  redoubt  of  stone,  mounting 
four  guns,  effectually  protects  the  southern  part  of  this  route  to 
the  city.  About  two  miles,  or  perhaps  less,  beyond  the  lake,  is 
the  Botanic  Garden  ;  one  of  the  spots  usually  visited  by  travel- 
lers, and  which  will  always  pay  them  for  their  pains.  When 
our  caleca  halted  before  the  iron  gate,  it  was  opened  by  a  ne- 
gro, who  afterwards  became  our  guide,  and  pointed  out  the 
most  interesting  parts  of  the  garden. 

The  Botanic  Garden  was  established  by  Dom  Leandro  do 
Sacramento.  It  covers  a  surface  of  about  four  acres,  laid  out 
in  alleys  and  beds,  which  are  kept  in  fine  order.  It  contains  a 
large  number  of  exotics,  and  a  great  deal  of  the  tea  plant,  which 
was  introduced  to  ascertain  whether  this  climate  was  suitable 
for  its  culture.  So  desirous  was  the  emperor  of  naturalizing  it, 
that  he  imported  a  Chinese,  with  his  family,  to  attend  solely 
to  the  cultivation  of  this  plant.  Thus  far  it  promises  well,  and 
in  time  may  become  of  importance  to  the  country.  This  gar- 
den produced,  (I  think,  in  1830,)  forty  "arrobas"  (32  lb.);  in 
San  Pablo,  El  Senhor  Dom  Jose  Arouche  de  Toledo  Rex- 
don  gathers  annually  from  eighteen  to  twenty  "  arrobas  ;"  in 
the  province  of  Las  JNIinas  are  gathered  about  twent)'  arrobas; 
besides  other  places  of  which  we  have  no  account.  In  1S26, 
shoots  were  sent  to  Maranan,  but  perished  from  the  dryness 
of  the  season. 

In  different  places  are  turf  seats,  and  benches  shaded  by  trees 
and  surrounded  by  every  variety  of  flowers.  Within  a  short 
distance  of  each  other,  are  growing,  arrow-root,  sago,  carda- 
mom, cinnamon,  cloves,  and  the  bread-fruit  tree  weighed 
down  with  its  own  production.  Nature  and  art  have  produced 
wonders  here  !  While  we  rested  in  the  shade  of  the  beautiful 
Jacca  tree,  the  song  of  birds,  and  the  odors  of  spices  and 
flowers,  fell  soothingly  upon  the  senses. 

The  only  plant  of  which  we  were  not  permitted  to  break 
twigs,  is  a  small  bush  about  four  feet  high,  termed  the  national 
tree,  because  each  leaf  contains  a  mixture  of  yellow  and  green 
— the  colors  of  the  Brazilian  flag.  Even  of  this,  however,  we 
were  indulged  with  a  few  leaves. 

We  returned  to  the  city  at  eleven  o'clock,  in  time  to  dress 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  49 

to  visit  the  Court,  which  held  a  levee  in  honor  of  the  anniver- 
sary of  the  independence  of  Brazil  from  the  throne  of  Portu- 
gal.* 

At  half  past  twelve  the  American  Legation  reached  the  side 
entrance  of  the  palace,  and  alighting  from  the  calecas,  made 
way  through  the  gate  to  the  stair.  As  we  ascended,  I  learned 
from  one  of  our  party,  that  wearing  gloves  or  hats  in  the  im- 
perial presence  was  equally  contrary  to  etiquette.  I  had  been 
instructed  in  the  part  which  I  was  to  enact  in  the  pageant  At 
the  head  of  the  stairs,  and  entrance  of  the  saloon,  stood  an  hal- 
berdier, dressed  in  a  harlequin  suit  of  green,  checkered  with 
yellow  stripes  half  an  inch  wide.  In  the  first  room,  which  was 
handsomely  furnished,  were  several  gentlemen  of  the  foreign 
corps  diplomatique,  and  among  them  a  Nuncio  from  the  Pope. 
Of  course  all  were  in  their  court  dresses.  From  this,  we 
passed  into  a  larger  room,  fitted  up  in  a  much  more  elegant 
manner.  Both  were  hung  with  portraits,  and  paintings  illus- 
trative of  Brazilian  history,  which  seemed  to  be  the  topic  of 
conversation  with  several  foreign  ministers,  who  were  wait- 
ing for  the  opening  of  the  Court.  The  subject  of  one  of 
these  pictures,  is  a  story  which  I  presume  every  good  Portu- 
guese and  Brazilian  ought  to  believe.  It  runs,  that  some  time 
in  the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century,  the  Moors  and  Portu- 
guese were  at  war  ;  the  forces  of  the  two  nations  were  very 
unequal  ;  the  Moors  counted  three  hundred  thousand  warriors, 
while  the  Christian  army  scarcely  numbered  thirteen  thousand 
fighting  men.  Notwithstanding  this  great  disparity  of  force, 
Alphonso,  the  Portuguese  general,  resolved  to  give  battle, 
though  to  all  the  issue  seemed  not  to  be  doubtful.  He  ha- 
rangued his  troops,  and  exhorted  them  to  conquer  or  die, 
rather  than  yield  to  the  infidel.  Having  increased  their  confi- 
dence by  his  eloquence,  he  announced  the  following  day  to  be 
fixed  for  the  conflict,  and  that  Heaven  would  manifest  some 
extraordinary  sign  as  a  harbinger  of  victory  ! 

He  retired  to  his  tent,  and  read,  in  the  Bible,  the  history  of 
GideoD,  which  he  looked  upon  as  similar  to  his  own.    While 

•  September  6th. 


50  THREE    V'EARS  IN   THE  PACIFIC. 

asleep,  he  dreamed  that  a  venerable  sage  appeared  and  promis- 
ed him  the  victory  !  This  vision  had  scarcely  passed  away, 
when  an  ofiicer  informed  him  that  a  strange  old  man  had  en- 
tered the  camp,  and  was  extremely  importunate  to  be  admitted 
to  his  presence.  Alphonso  ordered  the  stranger  to  be  conduct- 
ed into  the  tent ;  when  he  entered,  the  general  recognised  in 
him  the  person  he  had  seen  in  his  dream.  Without  waiting  for 
interrogation,  the  old  man  stated  that  he  was  a  fisherman,  and 
\  had  been  doing  penance  for  sixty  years  on  a  neighboring  moun- 

tain ; — that  he  had  now  come,  by  command  of  God,  to  announce 
victory  to  the  arms  of  Portugal  ;  adding,  "when  you  hear  a 
clock  strike,  go  forth  from  your  tent ;  you  will  behold  a  bright 
manifestation  of  what  Heaven  is  doing  for  you  !"  and  immedi- 
ately departed,  leaving  Alphonso  filled  with  mingled  joy  and 
surprise.     Some  time  after  day  break,  hearing  a  clock  strike, 
he  hastily  armed  himself,  and  sallied  from  the  tent     In  the 
midst  of  a  flaming  cloud  he  beheld  a  group  of  angels  supporting 
a  crucifix  !    A  clear  voice  announced  the  victory,  and  that  the 
soldiers  would  proclaim  Alphonso  king  ;  the  voice  required 
that  he  should  accept  and  wear  the  crown  ;  prophesying  that 
he  would  henceforward  glorify  God,  and  carry  his  religion  to 
the  most  distant  climates  in  the  world  !    Alphonso  prostrated 
himself,  and  declared  that  he  would  obey  the  commands  thus 
emanating  from  Heaven  ;  and  begged,  in  case  his  people  should 
ever  offend,  that  he  might  suffer  chastisement  in  their  stead. 
The  vision  vanished,  and  the  victory  was  gained  over  Ismael  I 
The  story  of  the  painting  was  just  concluded,  when  the  right 
hand  door  opened,  and  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  Brazil- 
ian Household  entered.    Dom  Pedro  II.  was  accompanied  by 
his  sisters  and  the  regency.  The  dresses  of  the  members  of  the 
court  were  splendid  ;  that  of  the  young  emperor  was  neat  and 
simple.     As  they  passed  through  the  rooms,  every  head  was 
bowed  in  salutation.  Presently  a  flourish  of  trumpets,  followed 
by  a  grand  march  by  a  full  band,  proclaimed  the  opening  of  the 
Court.    We  had  all  followed  into  the  anteroom.    In  a  few  mo- 
ments the  chamberlain  informed  the  corps  diplomat  icjue  that 
his  Imperial  Highness  was  ready  to  receive  them.    Those  who 
had  resided  longest  near  this  court,  took  precedence,  and  fol- 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  51 

lowed  the  chamberlain  through  the  left  hand  door.  The  Ame- 
rican Legation  was  last.  Our  Charge  preceded,  and  the  officers 
followed  according  to  rank,  at  about  three  yards  from  each 
other.  On  entering  the  presence,  we  all  bowed  ;  and  again, 
when  half  way  up  to  the  diiis,  and  repeated  the  reverence  im- 
mediately before  his  Highness.  Then  retreating,  with  our  faces 
towards  the  throne,  and  making  three  bows,  we  made  our  exit 
through  the  right  hand  door.  This  movement  in  a  large  room, 
is  far  from  being  graceful ;  and  from  the  impediment  experi- 
enced by  the  clergy,  in  consequence  of  wearing  long  robes, 
they  have  been  excused  from  this  retrograde  step.  We  halted 
in  the  room  where  the  chamberlain  had  met  us,  to  observe 
those  who  were  still  entering  to  pay  their  court  to  the  infant 
emperor. 

The  throne  room  was  richly  hung  with  green  velvet,  sprink- 
led with  gold  and  silver  stars,  and  the  floor  was  covered  with  a 
bright  colored  carpet,  with  a  centre  medallion  figure.  Dom 
Pedro  II. ,  who  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  his  father, 
stood  upon  the  dais — an  elevation  of  one  step,  on  which  the 
throne  is  usually  placed — with  the  regency  on  his  right,  and 
his  two  younger  sisters  on  his  left  hand.  His  large,  liquid  eyes, 
wandered  from  one  person  to  another  with  an  expression  of 
half  indifference.  His  salutations  were  stiff,  and  the  princesses, 
who  are  his  seniors*  (he  is  not  six  years  old),  seemed  to  suffer 
a  kind  of  mauvaise  honte.  Ladies  and  lords,  and  officers  bear- 
ing their  respective  insignia,  stood  along  the  walls  on  either 
hand.  Many  of  the  courtiers  were  arrayed  in  rich  suits  of  vel- 
vet of  antiquated  fashion,  and  wore  those  decorations  of  honor 
which  it  may  have  pleased  royalty  to  bestow  upon  them. 

The  crowd  soon  began  to  move  out  of  the  palace  towards 
their  carriages.  The  music  continued  ;  conversation  was  gay  ; 
every  body  wore  a  holy-day  face,  and  self  approbation  might 
be  read  in  every  countenance ! 

*  The  late  empress  left  five  children. 

Dona  Maria  de  Gloria,  Queen  of  Portugal,  born  April  4th,  1819. 
Dona  Januaria,  ....  "     March  11th,  1821. 

Dona  Paulina  Mariana,       ...  "    February  17th,  1823. 

Dona  Francisca  Carolina,  •  "    August  2d,  1824. 

Dom  Pedro  d' Alcantara,  (now  Dom  Pedro  II.)  "    December  2d,  1825. 


52  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


A  walk — A  ride — A  dinner  party. 


On  Sunday  morning  I  strolled  about  the  city  with  a  friend. 
Towards  point  Gloria,  and  in  front  of  a  large  building  once  oc- 
cupied as  a  royal  residence,  is  a  garden,  or  rather  park.    Large 
trees  of  many  varieties,  amongst  which  are  mangoes  and  aca- 
cias, shade  the  alleys  and  walks  which  lead  through  parterres 
and  beds  of  flowers.     I  visited  this  plac©  frequently,  because  I 
thought  it  a  promenade  for  ladies,  but  I  have  found  that  no- 
body resorts  there,  save  a  few  old  men  and  priests.     After 
viewing  the  bay  from  the  wall,  which  is  washed  by  the  waves, 
and  examining  a  bronze  fountain  which  is  now  dry,  we  walked 
to  where  the  aqueduct,  elevated  on  arches,  passes  into  the  city. 
Near  it  was  a  crowd  of  negroes  of  both  sexes,  standing  half  leg 
deep,  washing.    The  lower  limbs  were  bare  to  the  hips,  and 
their  dress  tucked  up  in  such  a  manner  as  to  give  it  the  appear- 
ance of  a  pair  of  short  breeches.    The  clothes  were  spread 
about  on  the  banks  of  this  drain  for  the  benefit  of  the  sun. 
Pieces  of  wardrobe  were  undergoing  the  lavatory  process  by 
being  beaten  with  good  will  between  two  stones — an  excellent 
test  of  tho  strength  of  the  fabric,  and  which  saves  the  hands 
quite  as  well  as  our  best  constructed  washing  machines.    The 
operators  were  very  gay.     Their  chattering  seemed  ceaseless ; 
yet  its  monotony  was  relieved  occasionally  by  little  bickerings 
and  contentions,  which  arose  from  slight  encroachments,  made 
by  one  or  another  on  what  was  conceived  to  be,  by  priority  of 
possession,  the  spot  or  pounding  stone  of  some  one  indivi- 
dual.   These  advantages  of  location  are  not  unimportant ;  the 
water  is  much  clearer  and  in  greater  abundance  in  some  places 
than  in  others.     These  disputes  sometimes  led  to  blows,  and 
then  some  worthy  master's  linen  was  applied  very  unceremo- 
niously about  the  ears  of  the  contending  parties.    The  wenches 
generally  came  olf  victorious,  much  to  the  amusement  of  the 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  53 

crowd,  who  displayed  their  approbation  and  white  teeth  much 
to  the  annoyance  and  irritation  of  the  discomfited  black,  who 
was  sometimes  forced  to  move  higher  up  the  stream.  This 
scene  also  affords  amusement  to  the  neighbors,  if  we  may  judge 
from  the  number  of  females,  peeping  and  laughing  from  the 
windows  of  the  surrounding  houses. 

On  our  return  to  the  Praca  de  San  Jose  we  met  Brunner, 
who  insisted  upon  our  dining  with  him  at  his  country  resi- 
dence. In  a  very  few  minutes  our  party  had  increased  so  much, 
that  several  caleeas*  were  necessary  to  carry  us.  I  was  seated 
with  my  friend,  and  we  set  off  at  a  fine  trot ;  as  soon  as  we 
got  out  of  the  city,  the  ride  became  so  pleasant  that  I  would 
have  willingly  prolonged  it.  Chateaus  and  plantations  lined 
the  road  on  both  sides.  An  air  of  luxury  and  tranquillity  per- 
vaded most  of  them  ;  but  the  retreats  of  Englishmen  could  be 
distinguished,  by  the  great  comfort  and  neatness  that  charac- 
terize their  dwellings  in  every  part  of  the  world,  from  those 
belonging  either  to  Brazilian  or  Portuguese  gentlemen.  The 
air  was  perfumed  with  flowers  and  fruits,  contrasting  most  de- 
lightfully with  that  in  the  confined  streets  of  Rio. 

An  hour's  drive  brought  us  to  a  lane  running  through  a  cof- 
fee plantation,  and  terminating  at  the  door  of  Dom  Bento  Tro- 
vato's  house.  Our  reception  was  cordial,  and  we  were  soon 
conversing  in  Spanish  or  in  French  with  the  daughters  of  our 
worthy  host.  His  son  carried  us  over  the  magnificent  dwell- 
ing, which  is  not  yet  entirely  finished.  The  rooms  are  spa- 
cious, and  adapted  to  the  climate.  The  furniture  is  of  beautiful 
rose  wood,  and  most  of  it  has  been  made  on  the  spot.  A  gar- 
den of  flowers  has  been  commenced,  and  a  labyrinth  formed 
in  it  afforded  amusement  to  some  of  the  party,  who  found  them- 
selves entangled  in  the  mazes  of  its  many  winding  paths. 

Thousands  of  pounds  of  coffee  are  gathered  annually  on  this 
plantation.  On  an  average,  each  tree  yields  about  a  pound,  but 
some  will  yield,  when  taken  great  care  of,  three,  four,  and 
even  five  pounds,  but  that  is  not  usual.  All  that  is  required 
in  its  cultivation  is,  occasionally  to  loosen  the  earth  about  the 

•  Each  caleca  accommodates  but  two  persons. 


54  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE  PACIFIC. 

trees;  the  greatest  labor  is  in  gathering  and  drying  it,  and 
without  slaves  this  business  would  be  unproductive.  The  cof- 
fee is  gathered,  the  pod  taken  off — each  one  contains  two 
grains — and  spread  out  to  dry  in  a  yard  with  a  tile  floor;  its 
quality  then  depends  very  much  upon  the  care  taken  in  turning 
it.  A  great  deal  of  the  coffee  consumed  in  the  United  States 
is  from  this  place,  and  it  is  only  the  first  quality  which  will 
sell  there.  The  second  quality  is  sent  to  Europe,  where,  in 
many  places,  it  is  parched  or  roasted  and  ground  before  it  is 
sold.  Though  not  a  tree  is  cultivated  beyond  a  hundred  miles 
from  Rio,  the  whole  world  might  be  supplied  with  coffee  from 
this  port  alone. 

The  coffee  tree  came  originally  from  upper  Ethiopia,  where 
it  has  been  known  from  time  immemorial,  and  is  still  culti- 
vated with  success.  It  is  supposed  very  generally  that  a  Mo- 
lacho,  a  kind  of  priest,  named  "  Chadely,"  was  the  first  Arab 
who  made  use  of  coffee ;  and  he  was  led  to  it,  to  free  himself 
from  a  continual  somnolence  which  interrupted  his  nocturnal 
devotions  and  prayers.  The  Derves  and  religious  mussulmen 
imitated  him,  and  the  "  Legistas"  followed  their  example. 
From  the  coasts  of  the  Red  Sea,  its  use  passed,  by  means  of 
travellers,  to  Medina  and  Mecca,  and  all  the  Mahometan  coun- 
tries. Public  coffee  houses  were  established  in  Persia  under 
the  regulation  of  the  government,  and  became  the  fashionable 
resort  for  the  idle  to  lounge,  and  the  busy  to  rest;  politicians 
to  talk  of  news;  poets  to  recite  their  verses,  and  the  "Mola- 
chos"  to  dispute.  In  Constantinople  the  introduction  of  coffee 
caused  a  great  sensation.  The  caffes  were  crowded,  and  the 
mosques  were  deserted ;  therefore  the  mufti  declared  coffee  to 
be  comprehended  within  the  law  of  Mahomet,  which  forbids 
the  use  of  strong  liquors,  and  in  consequence,  the  Porte  shut 
up  the  coffee  house  doors. 

In  1652,  a  merchant  named  "Edward,"  on  his  return  from 
the  Levant,  introduced  coffee  into  London.  The  English  were 
pleased  with  it;  and  since  that  time  its  use  has  been  adopted 
over  all  Europe  and  America ;  but  to  a  moderate  extent  com- 
pared with  countries  where  the  use  of  wines  is  prohibited. 

In  Arabia  the  rich  only  partake  of  it,  while  the  poor  make 


NOTICES  OK  HRAZILo  55 

an  infusion  from  the  shell  of  this  precious  berry.  It  is  said  to 
be  clear,  not  so  bitter  nor  so  strong  as  coffee.  Betalfagui,  a 
city  of  Yemen,  is  its  great  mart  in  Arabia.  It  is  exported  from 
Mecca.* 

Before  dinner  the  time  was  passed  in  conversation  and  list- 
ening to  music ;  several  pieces,  of  which  Dom  Pedro  I.  is  the 
composer,  and  which  speak  well  for  his  taste,  were  played. 
He  is  passionately  fond  of  music,  and  there  are  very  few  in- 
struments which  he  does  not  play  well.  The  opera  company, 
or  rather  the  musicians,  were  not  unfrequently  brought  to  San 
Christovao  to  accompany  the  emperor  in  his  concerts,  or  to 
play  his  compositions.  Mrs.  Brunner  was  fond  of  speaking  of 
the  empress  Leopoldina,  with  whom  she  was  intimately  ac- 
quainted, and  described  her  as  a  sociable  and  amiable  woman ; 
she  attributes  her  death  to  Dom  Pedro's  brutality.  The  pre- 
sent ex-empress  was  also  highly  spoken  of,  but  not  with  the 
same  devotional  feeling  as  the  former.  She  is  much  beloved 
by  the  emperor,  and  is  said  to  exercise  very  great  influence 
over  him ;  yet  he  spoke  to  her  once  so  harshly  at  table,  on 
board  of  H.  B.  M.  Ship  Warspite,  that  she  retired  in  tears.  He 
is  extremely  timid  at  sea;  on  their  passage  to  England  on 
board  of  H.  B.  M.  Ship  Volage,  he  asked  her  whether  she  was 
not  afraid;  "Why  should  I  be,"  she  replied,  "while  I  see 
the  captain  is  not?" 

Dom  Pedro  is  said  to  possess  a  considerable  share  of  good 
nature,  and  the  following  anecdote  seems  to  bear  evidence  of 

it.    A  midshipman  H of  the  United  States  Navy,  some 

four  or  five  years  since,  followed  a  man  who  deserted  from  his 
boat,  into  the  palace,  where  the  sailor  had  fled,  in  hopes  of 

eluding  pursuit.    Mr.  H rushed  by  the  sentinel,  and  by 

mistake,  got  into  the  audience  room.  The  noise  occasioned  by 
his  abrupt  entry,  led  the  emperor  to  inquire  the  cause;  and 
when  informed  that  it  was  a  young  naval  officer,  ordered  him 
to  his  presence.  The  midshipman  told  the  emperor  that  he  had 
entered  the  palace  in  pursuit  of  a  deserter,  and  would  not  leave 


*  See  Establecimientos  Ultramarinos  por  Edwardo  Malo  de  Luque.    Tomo 
segundo.  Madrid.  1785. 


56  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

it  till  he  should  find  him.  Dom  Pedro  was  pleased  by  his  re- 
solute manner,  and  extended  his  hand  to  be  kissed.  The  mid- 
dy, however,  did  not  so  understand  him,  but  gave  it  a  hearty 
shake,  and  requested  the  emperor  to  allow  the  deserter  to  be 

sought  and  delivered  up.  The  sailor  was  taken,  and  Mr.  H 

left  the  palace. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  the  emperor,  when  driving  four-in- 
hand,  met  Mr.  H .   He  drew  up  the  horses,  and  extended 

his  hand,  which  Mr.  H shook  very  cordially,  and  told 

his  Highness  that  he  was  extremely  happy  to  see  him.     The 

emperor  frequently  related  the  anecdote,  and  styled  Mr.  H 

his  "young  American  friend." 

We  sat  down  to  dinner  at  three  o'clock.  The  party  was 
large.  There  was  an  officer  there,  belonging  to  one  of  the 
men-of-war  in  the  bay,  who  particularly  interested  me.  He 
was  a  fat,  stout  man,  with  a  plump  Falstaff  rotundity  of  per- 
son, and  a  red  face.  His  forehead  was  remarkably  high,  rising 
like  a  pyramid  above  his  blonde  eyebrows ;  but  it  was  narrow, 
and  his  whole  head  bore  no  slight  resemblance  to  a  truncated 
sugar  loaf.  It  has  shaken  my  faith  in  the  doctrine  of  phrenolo- 
gy !  His  aquiline  nose  was  placed  like  a  peeping  post  between 
two  large,  prominent  eyes,  which,  like  jealous  neighbors,  ex- 
ercised a  constant  surveillance  over  each  others  views.  This 
gentleman  was  evidently  a  gGiir?nand,  and  so  fond  of  eating, 
that  he  seldom  spoke,  unless  for  the  purpose  of  recommending 
some  particular  sauce,  or  good  dish  before  him.  To  say  that  he 
was  "  the  man  who  eat  up  all  the  pudding,"  would  be  no  libel. 
He  sat  next  to  me.  After  devouring  a  portion  of  a  very  fine 
fish,  he  commenced  cleaning  his  plate,  with  his  bread,  of  the 
compound  sauces  he  had  poured  upon  it,  and  spoke  for  the  first 
time  during  the  whole  day.  "Elegant  fish,  Sir!  beautiful 
soy  !"  then  turning  his  head  to  one  side,  and  leaning  over  the 
table,  filled  his  mouth  with  a  piece  of  bread,  dripping  with  oil 
and  fish  sauce.  He  could  not  speak ;  but  laying  his  hand  on  a 
decanter,  nodded  to  me  and  filled  his  glass.  The  draught  was 
swallowed  with  more  gout  than  I  had  before  seen — "  delicious 
Port." 

The  fish,  which  my  taciturn  friend  so  justly  praised,  was 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  57 

large,  and  resembled  the  sheep's-head  in  form,  but  very  supe- 
rior to  it  in  flavor.  It  is  much  esteemed  at  Rio,  and  is  rather 
rare.  The  great  price  given  for  it  is  an  evidence  of  the  high 
estimation  in  which  it  is  held.  Brunner  told  me  that  fifteen 
or  twenty  dollars  have  been  paid  for  one  weighing  as  many 
pounds.  Fish  of  every  kind  pay  a  tithe  to  government  for  the 
support  of  hospitals. 

Opposite  to  my  officer  was  6eated  a  fine  looking  English 
gentleman,  whose  shirt  bosom  was  deeply  embroidered,  and 
closed  with  most  aristocratic  diamond  buttons ;  besides,  he 
wore  beautiful  cambric  ruffles,  and  a  diamond  ring  on  his  little 

finger.     This  was  an  Attach6  to Legation.    You  could 

easily  perceive  that  he  was  a  distinguished  man,  for  he  seldom 
used  his  fork,  but  scooped  up  the  morsels  with  a  piece  of  bread. 
With  the  ladies  he  was  an  oracle,  but  not  so  deeply  venerated 
by  my  friend  Brunner,  and  I  discovered  that  Dom  Bento,  once 
or  twice,  attempted  a  joke  at  his  expense.  Some  one  remarked, 
during  dinner,  that  he  had  been  a  month  at  Rio,  and  had  not 
yet  seen  a  lady  in  the  street. 

"That  is  certainly  a  very  strange  fact,"  said  the  Attache, 
"  but,  I  presume,  it  is  entirely  owing  to  the  jealous  nature  of 
Brazilian  husbands !" 

"  Not  so,"  replied  a  gentleman  of  a  very  serious  and  sarcas- 
tic manner;  "there  is  a  better  reason;  they  are  unwilling  to 
brave  the  sight  of  naked  negroes,  like  the  English  and  French 
ladies  here,  and  shrink  from  many  things  that  are  brought  be- 
fore us  in  the  streets." 

"But  you  will  not  admit  this,  Mr.  L ,"  said  Dom 

Bento. 

"Not  he,"  continued  the  sarcastic  gentleman,  "because  he 
knows  very  well  that  there  is  no  jealousy  in  England,  nor  vir- 
tuous, nor  chaste,  nor  modest  women,  any  where  else!" 

"  I  beg  your  pardon,  gentlemen  ;  though  I  do  not  say  sweep- 
ingly  that  there  is  not  a  virtuous  woman  in  France  or  Brazil, 
yet  I  think  you  will  agree  with  me,  that,  in  a  given  number, 
there  is  a  greater  proportion  of  truly  virtuous  females  in  Great 
Britain,  than  in  any  other  country  in  the  world ;  at  any  rate, 
they  are  more  sociable,  and  certainly  better  educated. " 
8 


58  TIIREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"  What  do  you  think  of  his  lordship's  mutton,  Mr.  L ?" 

asked  Dom  Bcnto. 

My  officer  broke  in  ;  "I  agree  with  Mr.  L ,  this  is  most 

exquisite  mutton,  and  the  capers  sauce  is  luscious !" 

"  I  was  not  thinking  of  his  lordship's  mutton;  hut,  preju- 
dice aside,  it  is  universally  conceded,  that  there  is  no  mutton 
in  the  world  like  the  English." 

"No  one  disputes  that  the  mutton  is  good  in  England,  but 
that  it  is  better  than  any  other,  I  doubt,"  said  the  sarcastic 
gentleman;  "you  will  say  the  same  of  the  beef,  and  I  assure 
you,  I  have  eaten  better  beef,  and  better  mutton  too,  both  in 
Peru  and  Montevideo,  than  I  ever  did  in  England !" 

The  Attache  was  not  easily  disconcerted,  for  when  Dom 
Bento  said — I  must  confess  somewhat  maliciously — "  the  mut- 
ton you  are  now  eating  and  praising,  is  Brazilian,  and  reared 
upon  my  own  estate,"  the  great  man  quickly  replied,  "  I  dare 
swear  it  is  of  English  breed  !" 

This  conversation,  or  rather  dialogue,  was  carried  on  in 
English.     The  ladies  were  speaking  Spanish. 

"  How  is  it,"  asked  Mrs.  Brunner,  "  that  not  a  North  Ame- 
rican— not  a  single  one,  of  the  many  who  have  been  in  Brazil, 
has  ever  married  a  lady  of  the  country  ?  Foreigners  from  every 
other  part  of  the  world  have  found  wives  here  !" 

"Oh!"  said  an  old  bachelor,  "the  ladies  are  too  unsocial 
and  formal  for  them ;  only  think,  it  requires,  I  am  told,  six 
years  to  become  acquainted,  and  besides,  you  are  all  such  stub- 
born Catholics,  that,  to  gain  your  hands,  a  man  must  forswear 
his  religion !" 

"I  will  contradict  that,"  said  Brunner. 

"  So  you  may,"  replied  the  bachelor,  "  except io  probat 
regulam. "  The  fact  is,  that  North  Americans — much  as  they 
are  given  to  wandering — possess  a  greater  love  of  country  than 
any  other  adventurers  who  seek  their  fortunes  abroad.  I  say 
adventurers,  because  no  man  will  leave  his  own  lire  side,  un- 
less it  be  with  a  hope  of  better  fortune,  and  an  easier  life  in 
another  clime;  except  travellers  from  curiosity. 

After  the  ladies  retired,  several  songs  were  sung,  and  the 
Attache  did  me  the  honor  to  ask  me  to  take  wine  with  him ; 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  59 

when  the  glasses  were  filled,  he  said,  in  a  most  gracious  tone, 
smiling  and  bowing  at  the  same  time,  "Will  you  say  some- 
thing, or  shall  I?" 

<*  You,  if  you  please,  Sir!" 

"  Then,  the  President  of  the  United  States  !" 

We  joined  the  ladies  at  an  early  hour,  and  spent  the  after- 
noon agreeably,  in  dancing,  music,  and  conversation.  The 
"Miudinho,"  the  music  of  which  is  the  composition  of  Dom 
Pedro,  and  "  a  nine  handed  reel,"  were  exhibited  to  us  as 
the  dances  of  the  country.  They  are  both  animated  and  amus- 
ing. 

After  tea,  and  a  pleasant  drive  by  moonlight,  we  arrived  in 
town  about  nine  o'clock. 

Foreigners  generally  tell  us  that  the  natives  of  Rio  are  cold 
and  inhospitable ;  it  must  be  granted,  on  one  hand,  that  the 
Brazilians  are  somewhat  formal,  and  require  gentlemen  to  be 
properly  introduced  ;  and  on  the  other,  foreigners  visit  the  city 
without  letters  to  any  of  the  natives,  and  few  of  them  speak 
the  language  !  Under  such  circumstances,  how  can  they  know 
each  other? 

I  am  told  by  those  who  have  long  resided  here,  that  the  la- 
dies are  amiable  and  kind ;  and  in  the  higher  circles,  elegant 
and  polished  in  their  manners.  They  are  deficient  in  the  essen- 
tials of  a  polite  education,  but  are  accomplished  musicians  and 
dancers.  Their  style  of  beauty  would  not  please  us.  They 
are  generally  very  dark  brunettes,  have  fine  black  eyes,  and 
hair,  and  are  rather  beyond  embonpoint — in  fact,  the  whole 
population  appears  to  be  disposed  to  grossness  and  obesity.  As 
in  all  tropical  climates,  the  ladies  are  marriageable  at  a  very 
early  age — they  are  not  unfrequently  mothers  at  twelve  and 
fourteen  years  old ! 


60  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Architecture — Cries — Market — Churches — Cemetery  of   San    Francisco   de 
Paula — Funerals — Climate — Prison — Slave  market — Library — Newspapers. 

This  city  offers  much  to  interest  and  much  to  disgust  the 
traveller.  The  construction  of  the  houses  is  suited  to  the  mild- 
ness of  the  climate,  which  is  never  cold  enough  to  require  the 
dwellings  to  be  warmed  artificially.  The  consequent  absence 
of  chimneys  rising  above  the  roofs  as  in  our  northern  cities, 
impresses  us  at  first  with  the  belief  that  there  is  a  feature  want- 
ing, and  which  is  not  at  first  discovered.  The  houses  are  gene- 
rally two  stories  high,  rough  cast  or  whitewashed.  The  win- 
dows of  the  second  story  extend  from  the  floor,  and  open  upon 
iron  verandas,  in  which  it  is  common  in  the  afternoon  to  see 
gentlemen  enjoying  the  cigar.  The  red  tile  roofs,  with  their 
eaves  projecting  and  terminating  in  points,  make  the  houses 
and  the  landscape  around  Rio  resemble  the  sketches  we  see 
upon  crockery.  In  the  interior  of  the  houses,  wooden  ceiling 
is  generally  substituted  for  plaster ;  and  it  is  usual  for  all  the 
apartments  of  the  same  floor  to  communicate  above  the  parti- 
tions, which  do  not  extend  entirely  to  the  top  or  cornice  of  the 
room.  This  allows  a  free  circulation  of  air,  which  is  so  essen- 
tial to  comfort  and  health  in  tropical  climates.  The  lower  floor 
is  occupied  as  a  coach  house  and  stables,  and  visitors  cannot 
reach  the  family  without  passing  the  family  coach,  which  is 
kept  in  fine  order.  This  custom  takes  its  origin  from  the  fond- 
ness of  show  which  is  innate  with  the  Portuguese  and  Spa- 
niards. The  entrance  door  is  properly  a  large  gate,  which  is 
constantly  watched  by  a  black  slave  in  livery,  who  manages  to 
keep  awake  by  sliding  his  thumbs  over  a  "  marimba."  In  the 
lower  windows,  close  trellis  shutters,  hung  from  above  hori- 
zontally, answer  all  the  purpose  of  glass. 

The  streets  are  narrow,  always  dirty,  and  intersect  each 
other  nearly   at  right  angles.      In   their  centres,    run    small 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  61 

streams  of  water,  which  aro  usually  the  vehicles  of  filth;  and 
when  it  rains,  which  it  does,  and  very  heavily,  during  a  con- 
siderable part  of  the  year,  the  whole  street  is  overflowed.  The 
side  walks  are  very  narrow,  and  the  dress  of  foot  passengers 
is  always  in  danger  of  being  soiled  by  the  splashing  of  horses 
and  carriages. 

The  cries  of  the  town  are  indescribable  ;  the  ears  are  assailed 
with  the  shrill  and  discordant  voices  of  women  slaves  vending 
fruits  and  sweetmeats  ;  and  of  the  water  carriers  crying  '  agua,' 
which  they  carry  about  on  their  heads  in  large  wooden  kegs, 
filled  at  the  different  fountains ;  each  one  is  worth  about  six 
cents. 

The  market  place  is  a  filthy  collection  of  booths,  generally 
surrounded  with  mud,  under  which  is  sold  a  variety  of  vege- 
tables and  fruits.  The  yam  supplies  the  place  of  the  potato. 
The  oranges  are  amongst  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  are  sold 
at  from  ten  to  twenty-five  cents  the  hundred.  Butcher's  meats 
are  sold  in  shops  which  may  be  scented  from  afar,  proclaiming 
the  state  in  which  they  are  kept.  It  is  customary  to  require 
the  purchaser,  after  selecting  what  he  wishes,  to  take  also  a 
piece  of  an  animal  that  may  have  been  killed  three  or  four 
days  ;  and  if  he  refuse,  the  butcher  most  obstinately  withholds 
the  chosen  morsel.  The  beef  is  tender,  but  entirely  destitute 
of  fat,  and  would  be  much  better  if  more  care  and  cleanliness 
were  bestowed  in  the  butchery.  The  pork  is  very  good  ;  but 
the  mutton  is  bad,  and  extravagantly  dear.  The  poultry  is  in- 
different, and  far  from  being  cheap.  The  fish  market  is  a  very 
good  one,  generally  well  supplied ;  oysters  are  found  in  the 
bay,  but  they  are  not  much  esteemed.  I  am  told,  there  is  a 
market  for  monkeys  and  parrots,  but  I  did  not  visit  it. 

There  are  in  this  city  thirty-nine  churches  ;  some  of  which 
are  splendidly  and  fancifully  ornamented.  That  of  San  Fran- 
cisco de  Paula  is  a  very  large  one.  The  naves  are  spacious, 
and  the  chapels  are  well  furnished  with  wax  candles,  crucifixes, 
paintings,  and  images  of  saints.  The  whole  interior  of  the 
church  is  decorated  with  pillars  and  heavy  carving.  But  little 
light  enters  through  the  painted  panes,  and  that  seems  to  dim 
the  blaze  of  the  tall  candles.    The  whole  inspires  a  religious 


f)2  THREE  TEARS  IN  TTIE   PACIFIC 

awe,  well  calculated  to  influence  the  mind  of  the  uneducated, 
who  readily  yield  to  appearances  which  they  do  not  compre- 
hend. 

I  visited  this  church  on  All  Saints'  Eve.  It  was  filled  with 
worshippers  kneeling  on  pieces  of  carpet  and  mats,  counting 
their  beads  in  silence  for  the  rest  of  the  departed.  The  silence 
was  interrupted,  ever  and  anon,  by  the  bursting  of  rockets  sent 
from  the  church  steps  and  belfry,  accompanied  by  a  short  peal 
of  bells.  I  threaded  my  way  through  the  kneeling  crowd,  to 
a  side  door  which  leads  to  the  cemetery  of  the  church.  It  is 
an  open  court,  surrounded  by  a  corridor,  supported  by  wooden 
pillars.  I  descended  the  short  stair  to  the  temple  of  death, 
called  the  "  Catacumbas;"  by  the  faint  glimmer  of  the  lamps, 
and  the  soft  light  of  the  starry  heaven,  I  saw  a  number  of  slaves 
busied  in  decorating  the  sepulchres  of  their  late  masters.  Crim- 
son satin  and  black  velvet  canopies,  trimmed  with  broad  gold 
and  silver  lace  and  spangles,  were  tastefully  arranged  over  the 
vases  containing  the  ashes  of  the  dead.  Around  the  enclosure, 
forming  in  fact  the  walls,  are  tiers  of  holes,  each  one  of  which 
is  just  large  enough  to  contain  a  human  body.  The  corpse, 
with  its  coffin,  is  deposited  in  one  of  these  holes,  where  it 
remains  for  two  years,  and  at  the  expiration  of  that  time  is  re- 
moved ;  the  bones  are  burned,  and  the  ashes  inurned  for  preser- 
vation. Some  of  these  urns  are  very  beautiful,  being  ornament- 
ed, and  bearing  the  appropriate  epitaphs  and  inscriptions  in  gilt 
letters.  Funerals  are  conducted  here  with  as  great  pomp  as 
the  circumstances  of  the  deceased  will  allow.  It  is  very  com- 
mon to  hire  coffins  for  the  occasion,  and  they  are  always  large 
enough  to  receive  within  them  a  rough  box  enclosing  the 
corpse.  Funerals  always  take  place  at  night,  and  the  dead 
body  is  left  in  the  church  till  the  ensuing  day,  when  the  rough 
coffin  is  sealed  up  in  the  hole,  and  the  gay  one  is  returned  to 
the  undertaker,  to  figure  on  another  occasion. 

The  police  of  Rio  is  military ;  walk  where  you  may,  soldiers 
and  barracks  are  met  with. 

The  low  situation  of  this  city,  and  the  filthy  state  of  its  streets, 
rendered  it  formerly  very  unhealthy ;  the  slave  trade  was  the 
means  of  introducing  contagious  diseases,  which  spread  them- 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  63 

selves  amongst  the  people.  In  a  great  measure,  however,  these 
evils  have  disappeared,  owing  to  the  establishment  of  a  more 
efficient  police,  and  the  abolition  of  the  importation  of  slaves 
from  Africa.  The  climate  is  eternal  spring,  summer,  and  au- 
tumn blended  together,  for  the  fruit  trees  are  budding  and 
yielding  their  fruits  at  the  same  time;  and  while  one  tree  is 
just  putting  forth  its  modest  blossoms,  another,  only  a  few  feet 
from  it,  is  bending  under  the  weight  of  its  produce.  Seeds 
thrown  into  the  ground,  spring  into  a  plant,  and  yield  a  crop, 
with  but  little  care. 

The  other  day  I  passed  by  the  "Carcalada"  or  prison.  From 
it  proceeded  a  most  offensive  smell,  arising  most  probably  from 
the  crowding  together  so  many  persons,  and  neglecting  to  re- 
move the  filth  that  must  be  continually  accumulating.  At  the 
grated  windows  appeared  a  number  of  the  prisoners,  calling 
out  to  the  passers  by  to  give  them  alms,  or  to  purchase  the 
horn  combs,  and  cups  and  toys  which  they  held  up  in  their 
hands.  In  the  street,  three  or  four  prisoners  were  chained  by 
the  neck  to  the  wall,  begging  ;  they  were  "pedindo  justica" 
— asking  justice.  One  of  them  was  a  mulatto,  who  informed 
me,  that  an  opportunity  was  thus  afforded  to  those  who  were 
without  money,  to  obtain  means  to  pay  for  their  trial,  and  fee 
their  lawyers.  He  was  charged  with  an  assault,  and  had  been 
put  in  the  street  with  others  to  beg,  as  the  prison  does  not 
afford  rations  before  trial.*  In  the  second  story  were  several 
well  dressed  men,  seated  in  the  verandas,  smoking.  They  were 
confined  for  debt.  A  little  beyond  the  prison,  I  questioned  a 
Portuguese,  who  was  standing  at  his  door,  and,  as  is  usually 
the  case,  he  readily  gave  me  what  information  I  asked.  He 
told  me  that  the  prison  contained  at  this  time  six  hundred  and 
twenty-seven  persons. 

I  am  happy  to  state,  that  I  sought  in  vain  for  the  slave  mar- 
ket which  I  visited  in  1826.  By  the  common  consent  of  the 
Christian  world,  the  traffic  in  slaves  has  ceased  ;  yet  I  am  told 


•  "  On  doit  ajouter  que  le  gouvernment  ne  se  charge  point  de  la  depense 
des  prisonniers,  et  qu'il  laisse  a.  la  pitie  des  habitants  le  soin  de  les  nourier." 

Dennis. — Histoire  du  Brtsil. 


64  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

that  some  have  been  imported,  clandestinely,  6ince  1830.  At 
the  time  I  visited  this  market,  I  saw  the  poor  slaves,  seated  on 
benches,  thirty  or  forty  together,  and  entirely  naked,  except 
the  loins,  which  were  covered  by  a  fold  of  blue  cotton  cloth. 
Many  of  them  were  suffering  from  the  small  pox,  or  just  con- 
valescing. While  I  was  looking  into  one  of  these  stalls  of  hu- 
man life,  a  lady,  attended  by  two  servants,  entered,  and  gazing 
round  at  the  group,  fixed  her  eye  upon  one,  and  after  survey- 
ing him  well,  as  a  practiced  jockey  docs  a  horse,  she  inquired 
the  price.  The  merchant  ordered  the  individual  indicated  to 
get  up,  and  then  put  him  through  several  exercises,  to  show 
that  his  motions  were  perfect.  All  this  took  place  with  the 
same  indifference,  or  more,  than  is  evinced  generally  in  a  bar- 
gain for  a  pair  of  gloves. 

In  the  rear  of  the  imperial  chapel  there  is  a  public  library, 
containing  fifty  thousand  volumes,  open  to  the  public  every 
day.  The  librarian  is  very  urbane,  and  scrupulously  attentive 
to  propriety,  even  in  the  dress  of  the  visiters.  I  visited  it  one 
day,  when  the  thermometer  was  standing  at  90°  F.,  in  com- 
pany with  a  gentleman  who  wore  a  white  jacket,  after  the  fa- 
shion of  the  place  ;  the  librarian  very  politely  told  him  that  it 
was  against  the  rules  of  the  institution  for  gentlemen  to  appear 
there  in  such  a  costume,  and  begged  him  therefore  to  with- 
draw ! 

The  general  taste  for  reading  in  any  country,  may  be  esti- 
mated by  the  number  and  kind  of  various  periodicals  published 
in  it*  In  Rio  Janeiro  there  are  several  daily  and  bi-weekly 
newspapers  printed,  the  largest  of  which  is  the  "  Jornal  do 
Commercio,"  and  that  is  of  half  the  size  of  the  "  National 


•  A  valuable  publication,  like  "Waldie's  Library,"  a  work  which  is  doing 
so  much  in  the  United  States  to  diffuse  a  taste  for  reading-,  and  consequently 
for  the  diffusion  of  knowledge  (the  demand  for  which  speaks  well  for  the  good 
taste  of  our  countrymen),  would  not  be  patronised  in  any  State  of  South  Ame- 
rica ;  simply  for  the  reason  that  a  taste  for  literature  is  not  general.  A  volume 
of  "  Waldie,"  always  delightful  on  land,  is  a  desideratum  at  sea,  from  its  com- 
pact and  portable  form.  Passengers  in  merchant  ships,  who  find  complete  sets 
on  board,  may  deem  themselves  fortunate  ;  the  libraries  of  United  States  ves- 
sels should  never  be  without  them. 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  65 

Intelligencer,"  published  at  Washington,  D.  C.  The  others 
are  the  "0  Indigena  do  Brazil,"  and  "0  Iman.  Jornal 
Caramuru,"  and  some  others,  of  the  size  of  half  a  sheet  of 
foolscap  paper.  They  are  occupied  with  items  of  foreign  news, 
imperial  decrees,  personal  attacks,  and  advertisements  of  run- 
away slaves.   Some  of  these  are  curious. 

"  Roga-se  ao  Sr.  Jodo  Carlos  Bouvier  de  chega  a  rua  Di- 
reita,  N.  34,  a  respeito  de  hum  negocio  que  ndo  ignore,  isto 
no  praso  de  trez  diets  da  publicagdo  deste,  alias  a  natureza 
de  negocio  sorti publicada.,'> 

"  Mr.  Joao  Carlos  Bouvier,  is  requested  to  call  at  No.  34, 
rua  Direita,  relative  to  an  affair  of  which  he  is  not  ignorant ;  if 
he  do  not  in  three  days  from  this,  the  nature  of  the  affair  will 
be  published." 

Another. — "  Roga-se  ao  Sr.  Cirurgido  Jlntonio  Francisco 
Pereira  da  Fonceca,  haja  de  mandar  a  rua  de  S.  Jose,  N. 
122,  pagar  4||120r<s.  que  deve  ha  mais  de  dous  annos." 

"  Mr.  C A F Pereira  da  Fonceca  is  requested 

to  send  to  No.  122,  rua  de  S.  Jose,  and  pay  4||120  rs.,  which  he 
has  owed  more  than  two  years !" — An  unpleasant  dun  ! 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Geography  of  Brazil — Products — Diamond  Mines. 

The  empire  of  Brazil  is  the  most  extensive  of  the  several 
countries  of  South  America.  Nature  has  marked  the  boundary 
on  the  north  by  the  river  Maranon  ;  on  the  south  is  the  Re- 
public of  Montevideo,  formerly  the  Banda  Oriental ;  on  the 
west,  the  mountains  of  Matto-Grosso  separate  it  from  Peru  ; 
and  on  the  east,  its  shores  are  washed  by  the  Atlantic. 

The  whole  country  is  watered  by  large  streams,  which  afford 
a  water  communication  in  almost  every  direction  ;  and  by  the 
9 


66  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

addition  of  a  few  canals,  the  inhabitants  of  the  more  remote 
sections  would  be  enabled  1o  send  their  produce  to  the  chief 
markets  on  the  coast  In  a  few  years,  the  Maranon  will  become 
a  great  highway  of  commerce,  by  steam  navigation,  from  the 
interior  of  Peru,  and  even  from  the  shores  of  the  Pacific  ocean  ; 
then  a  large  portion  of  trade,  now  conducted  by  the  route  of 
Cape  Horn,  will  be  directed  into  this  new  channel. 

The  country  is  divided  into  provinces,  or  captaincies.  Along 
the  coast  are  Guyana,  Para,  Maranham,  Piauhy,  Siara,  Rio- 
Grande-do-Norte,  Parahyba ;  Pernambuco,  which  includes 
Alagoas  ;  Seregipe-d'el-Rey,  Bahia,  Ilheos,  Porto-Seguro,  Es- 
pirito-Santo,  Rio-de-Janeiro,  San-Paulo,  Santa-Catharina  (an 
island  near  the  coast),  and  Rio-Grande-do-Sul.  The  interior  is 
included  in  three  great  divisions  ;  Minas-Gcraes,  Goias,  and 
Matto-Grosso,  which  are  subdivided  into  comarcas,  or  depart- 
ments. These  provinces  are  but  imperfectly  known  ;  they 
abound  in  mines  of  gold,  silver,  and  other  metals,  and  precious 
stones,  among  which  the  diamond  and  topaz  are  conspicuous. 

The  vegetable  productions  of  this  vast  empire  are  as  abun- 
dant and  valuable  as  those  of  any  other  in  the  world  ;  not  only 
in  medicinal  plants,  fruits,  and  dye  woods,  but  in  timber  suit- 
able for  all  the  purposes  of  marine  architecture.* 

Rio  dc  Janeiro,  or  St.  Sebastians,  is  advantageously  situated 
for  an  extensive  commerce.  The  bay  is  one  of  the  most  safe 
and  capacious  in  the  world,  affording  every  facility  for  water- 
ing vessels,  and  refreshing  their  crews,  after  long  voyages. 
It  is  a  rendezvous  for  men-of-war,  and  a  stopping  place  for 
merchant-men  of  all  nations  trading  to  the  Pacific. 

Like  all  the  colonies  in  the  New  World,  Brazil  was  much 
restrained  in  her  commerce  by  the  mother  country  ;  but  since 
the  immigration  of  the  court  to  Rio  dc  Janeiro,  in  1807,  the 
old  restrictions  have  been  removed.  About  1S10,  a  treaty  was 
made  with  England,  by  which  all  the  ports  of  Brazil  were 
opened  to  British  vessels  and  produce,  on  paying  fifteen  per 
cent,  on  a  valuation  made  by  their  own  consuls.     This  treaty 


•  A  fine-of-battle  Bhip  and  a  frigate,  buHt  at  Bahia,  were  launched  and  sent 

'■>  Kio  Janeiro  in  1833 


NOTICES  OF  BRAZIL.  67 

expired  in  1825.  The  produce  of  all  other  nations,  imported 
into  Brazil,  pays  a  duty  of  twenty-four  per  cent,  on  a  valuation 
made  by  the  custom-house  of  the  country.  Thus  a  very  con- 
siderable advantage  was  secured  to  the  English  ;  the  French 
complained  (and  do  still)  of  the  high  estimates  made  of  their 
goods,  which  frequently  paid  a  hundred  per  cent.,  thus  de- 
stroying any  profit  that  might  have  accrued  in  their  trade. 

Previous  to  the  royal  immigration,  commerce  was  much  in- 
jured by  exclusive  privileges,  granted  to  certain  companies. 
Salt,  for  example,  was  a  monopoly  which  bore  heavily  upon 
trade,  being  indispensable  in  the  preservation  of  hides,  and  salt- 
ed and  jerked  beef,  which  were  sent  from  the  interior  under  the 
name  of  "carnas  do  sertaon."  The  laboring  classes  in  nearly 
every  part  of  South  America  live  almost  exclusively  upon 
jerked  beef,  which  is  prepared  by  cutting  the  meat  into  rib- 
bon-like pieces  and  drying  them  in  the  sun,  with  a  small  addi- 
tion of  salt,  or  by  steeping  them  in  a  strong  pickle  for  twenty- 
four  hours.  The  heat  of  the  climate  precludes  the  salting  of 
beef  in  large  pieces  or  joints. 

The  province  of  Rio-Grande-do-Sul,  which  enjoys  a  most 
temperate  climate,  produces  a  great  number  of  hides,  and  quan- 
tities of  the  u  carnas  do  sertaon,"  or  meats  from  the  interior, 
sufficient  for  home  consumption,  and  even  for  exportation ;  of 
these  u'carnas"  the  black  population  consume  great  quantities 
— in  fact,  it  is  the  only  animal  food  they  eat. 

The  province  of  St.  Paul,  celebrated  for  the  courage  of  its 
inhabitants  and  the  numerous  exploring  expeditions  which  have 
sallied  from  it  for  the  interior,  yields  wheat,  rye,  maize  or 
Indian  corn,  manioc,  and  potato  ;  and  lately  the  vine  begins 
to  flourish  in  its  genial  climate.  The  Palma  Christi  grows  in 
such  abundance,  that  castor  oil  is  burned  in  lamps,  instead  of 
spermaceti.  Coarse  cottons  are  exported :  their  manufacture 
promises  to  improve. 

Saint  Catherine,  an  island  on  the  coast,  near  the  tropic,  yields 
coffee  and  rice  of  a  superior  quality ;  and  Mr.  Langsdorf  states* 
that  indigo,  pepper,  vanilla,  balsam  copaiba,  and  several  other 

*  Voyage  a  Pile  Sainte  Catherine. 


68  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

similar  articles  caa  be  grown  without  much  labor  or  attention. 
Lately  very  good  cheese  has  been  made  and  exported  to  the 
main.  The  forests  of  St.  Catherine  produce  several  excellent 
species  of  wood. 

Rio  Janeiro,  besides  possessing  a  fertile  soil,  remarkably 
well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  coffee,  which  is  rapidly  in- 
creasing, is  the  focus  of  industry  and  trade,  from  which  im- 
provements of  all  kinds  spread  in  every  direction  over  Brazil. 
The  flourishing  state  of  the  spice  trees  in  the  botanic  garden 
near  the  city,  promises  that  their  cultivation  may  be  extended 
in  the  province,  and  if  not  sufficiently  productive  for  exporta- 
tion, will  at  least  supply  the  demand  for  home  consumption. 
Minas-Geraes,  besides  the  major  part  of  the  productions 
common  to  the  southern  provinces  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  yields 
gold,  diamonds,  and  precious  stones.  Wheat  and  Indian  corn 
grow  in  plenty,  and  large  quantities  of  nitre  are  obtained  from 
the  mines  of  Monte  Rorigo. 

Matto-Grosso  and  Goias  are  but  thinly  populated.  They  are 
inhabited  by  several  tribes  of  unsubdued  Indians.  The  soil  is 
covered  with  rich  pasturage,  forests,  and  several  useful  plants 
which  are  common  to  Peru. 

In  the  provinces  of  Espirito-Santo  and  Porto-Seguro,  are 
found  several  kinds  of  wood  suited  to  cabinet  work  and  archi- 
tecture. The  Ibirapitanga  (Brazil  wood),  now  so  necessary 
in  manufactures,  and  which  is  beginning  to  fail  in  Pernambuco, 
is  met  with  here. 

Ilheos  and  its  adjacent  territories  furnish  manioc,  and  the 
cacao  tree,  though  its  cultivation  is  not  extensive. 

The  soil  of  Bahia  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  sugar- 
cane;  the  manufacture  of  which  is  daily  improving.  Tobacco 
also  flourishes  in  this  province,  and  affords  very  considerable 
profits.  At  St.  Salvador  (Bahia),  as  well  as  at  Rio  Janeiro, 
several  mechanic  arts  are  exercised  with  a  degree  of  perfection 
which  would  not  disgrace  European  workmen. 

In  Pernambuco  and  its  vicinity  is  grown  some  of  the  finest 
cotton  in  South  America.  The  Brazil  wood  thrives  better  here 
than  in  any  other  part  of  the  empire  ;  very  little  attention  is 
paid  however  to  its  propagation. 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  69 

Siara,  Parahyba,  and  Piauhy  are  less  fertile  than  the  cap- 
taincies already  named.    Nevertheless,  its  numerous  flocks  and  ' 
herds  supply  a  lucrative  branch  of  trade. 

The  riches  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  in  Maranham  and  Para, 
are  incalculable.  Cotton  flourishes,  the  cacao  tree  covers  the 
banks  of  certain  rivers,  several  spice-trees  grow  spontaneously, 
and  among  the  choice  woods  is  that  called  citrin,  which  is  re- 
served for  the  manufacture  of  the  most  sumptuous  kind  of 
moveables.  All  these  will  be  sources  of  wealth,  when  the 
country  becomes  more  densely  populated. 

Besides  the  products  already  named,  indigo  grows  in  several 
parts  of  Brazil,  and  the  cochineal  was  formerly  cultivated  in 
the  neighborhood  of  Rio  Janeiro.  With  all  these  advantages, 
added  to  a  little  more  industry  and  a  greater  population,  Brazil 
might  soon  rank  herself  amongst  the  richest  and  most  powerful 
nations  on  earth. 

Finally,  the  southern  provinces  export  wheat,  hides,  horn, 
hair,  and  tallow ;  the  middle,  gold  and  precious  stones ;  and  the 
northern,  cotton,  coffee,  sugar,  tobacco,  and  Brazil  wood.  The 
quantities  of  the  staple  articles  exported  annually  have  been 
estimated  at  one  hundred  thousand  cases  of  sugar,  of  fifteen 
quintals  (12S  lb.)  each;  a  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  bales  of 
cotton,  and  between  twelve  and  thirteen  millions  of  pounds  of 
coffee  !  The  imports  are  chiefly  wines,  brandy,  and  oil,  from 
Portugal ;  dry  goods  and  hardware  from  England  ;  and  flour, 
salted  provisions,  naval  stores,  and  household  furniture,  from 
the  United  States. 

The  population  of  Brazil,  according  to  the  latest  census,  in 
1819,  is  as  follows; 


Whites, 

843,000 

Indians, 

259,400 

Free  castes, 

426,000 

Slave   do. 

200,000 

Free  blacks, 

159,500 

Black  slaves, 

1,72S,000 

Total, 

3,615,900 

70  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Notwithstanding  the  numerous  exploring  expeditions  of  the 
Paulists.  the  discovery  of  those  treasures  which  have  given  ce- 
lebrity  to  the  district  where  they  are  found,  is  owing  to  chance. 
Though  they  performed  many  journeys  in  search  of  precious 
stones,  the  Brazilians  were  for  a  long  time  ignorant  that  they 
possessed  extensive  mines  of  diamonds.  In  1729,  a  certain 
Fonseca  Loho  found  the  first  stones  of  this  kind,  and  handed 
them  to  a  workman,  who,  having  been  at  Goa,  at  once  per- 
ceived their  value.  According  to  other  authorities,  some  of 
them  were  carried  to  the  governor  of  Villa-do-Principe,  by 
whom  the)'-  were  used  for  a  long  time  as  counters.  About  the 
same  time,  some  of  them  came  into  the  possession  of  the  Dutch 
minister  at  Lisbon,  who  sent  them  to  Amsterdam  and  ascer- 
tained their  value.  A  treaty  was  immediately  concluded  be- 
tween Holland  and  the  Portuguese  government,  for  all  the 
precious  stones  found  in  the  district  of  Serro-do-Frio.  The  mas- 
ters of  Brazil,  not  discovering  till  too  late  their  disadvantage  in 
this  arrangement,  saw,  for  several  years,  the  wealth  which 
should  have  been  their  own,  pass  into  the  possession  of  rivals. 
When  it  again  returned  to  them  in  1772,  these  stones  had  lost 
much  of  their  value  in  Europe. 

The  diamond  district  is  known  by  the  name  of  Serro-do- 
Frio;  it  extends  sixteen  leagues  from  north  to  south,  and  eight 
from  east  to  west.  It  is  surrounded  by  craggy  mountains,  as  if 
nature  had  been  at  some  pains  to  conceal  her  treasures  from 
man !  Every  possible  precaution  is  taken  to  prevent  the  inha- 
bitants from  carrying  the  diamonds,  which  are  found  in  the 
auriferous  sands,  beyond  this  natural  wall ;  all  the  outlets  are 
strictly  guarded,  and  any  person  detected  in  breaking  the  law 
is  most  severely  punished.  Oilenders  were  formerly  sent  to 
the  coast  of  Angola,  which  punishment  was  looked  upon  by 
many  as  severe  as  death  itself. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  diamonds  arc  procured  without 
great  labor.  They  are  sometimes  found  on  the  surface  of  the 
earth ;  but  it  is  not  unfrequcntly  necessary  to  turn  the  course 
of  rivers,  to  obtain  even  a  small  quantity.  Until  the  present 
period,  the  river  Jiquitihonha  has  furnished  most  of  this  kind 
of  wealth.    Large  masses  of  that  species  of  flint,  known  in  the 


NOTICES  OP  BRAZIL.  71 

county  by  the  name  of  "cascalhao,"  arc  found  in  it,  which 
are  submitted  to  a  lavatory  process,  in  such  a  way  as  to  prevent 
every  opportunity  of  fraud.  The  diamond  is  almost  always  en- 
veloped in  a  ferruginous  crust;  therefore,  long  practice  is  ne- 
cessary to  enable  persons  to  distinguish  them  from  the  flints 
among  which  they  are  imbedded. 

Nor  are  they  procured  without  expense.  It  is  calculated  that 
every  diamond  obtained  by  the  government,  costs  about  eight 
dollars  the  carat !  Though  more  than  a  thousand  ounces  of 
diamonds  have  crossed  the  Atlantic,  since  the  discovery  of  the 
mines,  the  whole  produce  of  Tejuco  has  not  been  put  in  circu- 
lation ;  because  this  would  be  a  sure  means  of  reducing  the  va- 
lue of  a  precious  stone,  which,  unlike  others,  has  only  an  arbi- 
trary price.  The  same  policy  has  forbid  the  opening  of  the 
mines  of  Goias  and  Matto-Grosso,  which  are  guarded  by  the 
government  from  the  incursions  of  adventurers. 

At  the  time  of  the  discovery  of  the  famous  diamond  of  the 
Portuguese  crown,  South  America  was  so  tranquil,  that  it  is 
looked  upon  as  an  important  event.  It  was  found  in  the  brook 
of  Abay te,  by  three  malefactors  who  had  been  banished,  and 
carried  to  the  governor  of  mines  by  an  ecclesiastic.  Its  size 
was  so  enormous,  that  repeated  assays  were  made,  before  they 
were  convinced  of  its  being  in  reality  a  diamond.  It  was  then 
sent  to  Lisbon,  where  it  excited  universal  astonishment,  and 
procured  the  pardon  of  the  criminals.  Afterwards,  an  explor- 
ing station  was  fixed  on  the  banks  of  the  Abayte,  but  without 
success ;  the  diamonds  found  were  of  little  value,  and  scarcely 
defrayed  the  expense  of  search.  * 

*  Dennis.  Histoire  du  Bresil. 


* 


72  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Departure — Voyage  round  Cape  Horn — Cape  Pigeons. 

Two  weeks  were  happily  spent  at  Rio,  which  will  be  long 
remembered  by  the  writer,  and  many  of  his  companions,  who 
shared  the  elegant  hospitalities  of  our  countrymen  and  others 
there.  To  Mr.  Brown,  our  Charge  d'Affaires,  and  Mr.  Wright, 
our  Consul,  we  were  indebted  for  many  civilities,  and  great 
kindness. 

At  daylight,  on  the  10th  of  September,  1S31,  being  ready 
for  sea,  we  got  underway,  with  a  light  land  breeze,  and  "  fan- 
ned" out  of  the  magnificently  picturesque  harbor  of  Rio  Ja- 
neiro, and  again  tossed  on  the  Atlantic,  towards  the  boisterous 
regions  ruled  by  the  Cape  Spirit ! 

"  Farewell  to  the  land  where  the  clouds  love  to  rest, 

Like  the  shroud  of  the  dead  on  the  mountain's  cold  breast ; 
To  the  cataract's  roar,  where  the  eagles  reply, 
And  the  lake  her  lone  bosom  expands  to  the  sky  !" 

Before  sunset,  Cape  Frio  was  lost  sight  of,  and  we  only 
thought  of  the  storms  we  might  encounter  in  passing  into  "  Le 
Grand  Ocean,"  as  the  French  most  emphatically  term  the 
Pacific. 

Cape  Horn  appears  to  be  truly  the  patria  nimborum.  Very 
few  days  of  the  year,  summer  or  winter,  are  cloudless ;  they 
are  all  the  same,  cold  and  stormy.  I  have  passed  it  four  times ; 
once  in  summer,  once  in  winter,  once  in  spring,  and  once  in 
the  autumn.  In  all  these  passages,  the  thermometer  sank  as 
low  as  32°  F.,  and  was,  on  no  one  day,  above  fifty.  I  have 
conversed  with  sealers,  who  have  spent  whole  years  on  the 
cape ;  with  whalemen,  who  have  doubled  it  in  every  month  in 
the  year ;  with  the  masters  of  merchant  vessels,  trading  to  the 
Pacific ;  and  they  all  concur  in  giving  a  stormy  character  to 
this  region.     1  have  also  examined  the  log-books  of  many  ves- 


CAPE  HORN.  73 

scls,  and  have  found  them  to  agree,  very  generally,  upon  this 
.subject.  The  journals  of  voyagers,  particularly  of  the  earlier 
navigators,  give  most  fearful  accounts  of  the  tempests  and  dis- 
asters, generally  encountered  in  passing  from  the  Atlantic  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  And  if  shipwreck,  in  our  time,  be  less  fre- 
quent than  in  the  earlier  ages,  it  must  be  attributed  to  the  great 
improvements  in  marine  architecture,  seamanship,  and  naviga- 
tion, and  not  to  any  amelioration  of  the  climate  of  the  Cape, 
and  its  vicinity.  For  we  find,  that  a  distinguished  naval  com- 
mander, who  visited  the  Pacific  nearly  twenty  years  since, 
holds  the  following  language :  "  The  passage  round  Cape  Horn, 
from  the  eastward,  I  assert,  from  my  own  experience,  is 
the  most  dangerous,  most  difficult,  and  attended  with  more 
hardships,  than  that  of  the  same  distance  in  any  other  part  of 
the  world;"* 

Of  the  very  many  merchant  vessels,  annually  doubling  Cape 
Horn,  very  few  have  been  lost.  The  number  that  yearly  pass 
the  Cape,  may  be  estimated  at  three  hundred,  yet  so  far  as  I 
have  been  able  to  learn,  shipwrecks  and  total  losses  have  not 
averaged  one  a  year. 

The  principal  difficulties  of  this  navigation,  arise  from  the 
constant  prevalence  of  the  winds  from  the  westward,  with  but 
little  variation.  Vessels  bound  to  the  Pacific,  have  to  contend 
with  these  winds,  which  are  accompanied  with  cold,  cutting 
rains,  snow,  hail,  and  sleet;  and  their  crews  are  exhausted, 
more  by  the  continuance  than  by  the  severity  of  the  weather. 
Such  was  our  own  case,  in  the  passage  of  1831,  and  that  of 
several  merchant  vessels,  with  whose  officers  I  have  conversed. 

The  usual  route  pursued,  going  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pa- 
cific Ocean,  is  to  pass  between  the  Falkland  Islands  and  the 
main,  and  draw  round  the  land  as  much  as  the  prevailing  winds 
will  permit.  Vessels  always,  if  possible,  "make  the  land"  of 
the  Cape,  that  is,  approach  near  enough  to  see  it,  and  then  hold 
their  way  westward,  until  they  reach  the  meridian  of  eighty 
or  eighty-five  degrees  of  west  longitude,  before  attempting  to 

*  Porter's  Journal,  vol.  i.  p.  82.  See  also,  the  Voyages  of  La  Perouse,  Lord 
Anson,  Basil  Hall,  Frezier,  kc. 
10 


74  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

steer  to  the  northward.  If  successful  in  gaining  that  meridian;, 
without  being  driven  far  to  the  southward,  the  passage  is  gene- 
rally short; — the  voyage  from  the  latitude  of  40°  S.,  in  the  At- 
lantic, to  Valparaiso,  is  made  in  from  thirty  to  thirty-five  days. 

It  frequently  happens,  however,  that  vessels  are  driven  as 
far  as  G3°,  and  even  64°  south,  where,  if  to  the  eastward  of  the 
meridian  of  Cape  Horn,  they  meet  with  icebergs,  and  suffer 
severely  from  the  cold.  Vessels  have  been,  occasionally,  forty, 
fifty,  sixty,  and  in  some  instances,  seventy  days,  contending 
with  wind  and  storms,  before  being  able  to  get  to  the  west- 
ward, when  "hugging  the  land  ;"  while,  at  the  very  same  pe- 
riod, the  same  region  has  been  passed  by  others,  in  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  days,  by  pursuing  the  southern  route.  The  com- 
bined experience  of  whalemen  and  sealers,  goes  to  establish, 
that,  in  high  southern  latitudes,  the  winds  prevail  from  the 
eastward  during  a  great  part  of  the  year,  which  is  directly  con- 
trary to  what  is  true  as  respects  the  direction  of  the  winds  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  land.  In  fact,  it  seems  that  the  winds  in 
this  part  of  the  world,  blow  comparatively  in  narrow  veins ; 
and  it  has  been  remarked  by  the  most  experienced  navigators, 
that  gales  do  noL  blow  home  to  the  land. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  most  intelligent  seamen,  that  vessels 
should  not  pass  through  Straits  La  Mair ;  that  they  should  keep 
close  in  to  the  land,  and  not  go  south  of  57°  S.,  but  beat  be- 
tween that  parallel  and  the  land,  until  they  may  reach  the  me- 
ridian of  S5°  west  longitude,  before  attempting  to  get  to  the 
northward.  Though  the  wind  blows  generally  from  the  west- 
ward, varying  from  south,  south-west,  to  north,  north-west,  it 
occasionally  comes  from  the  eastward.  Of  three  vessels  that 
doubled  Cape  Horn,  in  October  1S31,  the  first  was  thirty-one 
days,  from  Lat.  45°  40'  S.  Long.  5S°  30'  W.  in  the  Atlantic,  to 
Lat.  34°  30'  S.  Long.  79°  15'  W.  in  the  Pacific.  She  reached 
59°  31'  S.  Her  log-book  docs  not  show  that  she  had  the  wind 
from  the  eastward  at  any  one  time ;  it  varied  from  south  to 
north,  north-west.  The  second  vessel  was  thirty  days  from 
Lat.  40°  21'  S.  Long.  54°  5'  W.  in  the  Atlantic,  to  Lat.  30°  46' 
S.  Long.  73°  30'  W.  in  the  Pacific.  She  passed  through  Straits 
La  Mair,  and  went  as  far  as  57°  54'  S.    She  had  an  easterly 


CAPE  HORN.  75 

wind  for  several  clays.  The  third,  was  twenty-nine  days  from 
Lat.  50°  48'  S.  Long.  61°  W.  in  the  Atlantic,  to  Lat.  45°  5'S. 
Long.  SO0  17'  W.  She  reached  as  far  as  59°  7'  south  latitude. 
This  vessel  experienced  some  heavy  gales,  but  had  the  advan- 
tage of  easterly  winds  for  several  days. 

The  United  Slates  Ship  Brandyvvine  doubled  Cape  Horn  in 
December  1S26.  She  was  thirty-seven  days  from  Rio  de  Ja- 
neiro to  Valparaiso,  and  went  as  far  as  5S°  S.  The  United 
States  Ship  Guerriere  doubled  the  Cape  in  May  1829.  She 
went  as  far  as  5S°  37'  south,  and  had  very  little  easterly  wind. 
She  was  sixty  days  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  Valparaiso.  The 
United  States  Ship  Falmouth  doubled  the  Cape  in  October 
1831.  She  was  forty-nine  days  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  Valpa- 
raiso, and  went  as  far  as  62°  5'  south  latitude. 

The  commander  of  an  English  whale  ship,  who  has  doubled 
the  Cape  eighteen  times,  (four  times  in  the  month  of  March, 
when  lie  found  the  wind  prevailing  from  the  eastward)  recom- 
mends the  month  of  March  to  enter  the  Pacific,  and  November 
to  return. 

The  master  of  an  American  merchant  ship,  who  has  doubled 
the  Cape  eight  times,  thinks  it  advisable,  in  case  of  strong  head 
winds,  "to  lay  to"  under  Staten  Land,  and  there  wait  for  a 
favorable  opportunity. 

From  all  we  can  learn,  it  seems  advisable  not  to  pass  through 
the  Straits  La  Mair ;  to  keep  close  in  with  the  land,  say  within 
twenty  or  thirty  miles;  not  to  go  south  of  57°;  and  not  to  at- 
tempt to  decrease  the  latitude,  until  in  the  meridian  of  85°  W., 
no  matter  how  promising  the  appearances  of  the  weather  may 
be.  The  reasons  given  for  this  course  are ;  first,  though  the 
winds  be  mostly  from  the  westward,  they  are  not  constantly 
from  that  quarter ;  second,  that  the  gales  are  not  so  severe  near 
the  land,  and  do  not  blow  home ;  third,  that  there  are  no  cur- 
rents setting  on  shore ;  and  fourth,  by  not  being  too  far  south, 
advantage  may  be  taken  of  a  favorable  wind,  that,  in  a  few 
hours,  might  carry  the  vessel  beyond  the  parallel  of  the  Cape, 
which  would  be  unavailing,  if  the  ship  should  be  as  far  as  63° 
S. — as  has  been  recommended — because  these  winds  do  not  al- 
ways last  long  enough  to  carry  a  vessel  many  hundred  miles. 


76  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Within  a  few  years,  another  passage  has  heen  successfully 
tried  by  several  vessels  ;  that  which  originally  led  to  the  Pa- 
cific— the  Straits  of  Magellan.  From  their  entrance  on  the  At- 
lantic, to  Cape  Pillar,  on  the  Pacific,  is  estimated  to  be  from 
three  to  four  hundred  miles.  The  breadth  varies  from  eight  to 
twenty  miles.  The  water  is  deep,  the  anchorage  good,  the 
surface  generally  smooth,  and  both  its  coasts  abound  in  safe  and 
convenient  harbors,  which  may  always  be  gained  seasonably 
by  vessels  passing  through  the  straits.  About  a  year  since,  an 
American  barque,  drawing  more  than  fifteen  feet  water,  passed 
through  in  four  days  ;  the  master  informed  us  that  he  encoun- 
tered no  difficulty,  of  any  kind  whatever.  Sealers,  who  fre- 
quent that  part  of  the  world,  are  quite  familiar  with  the  navi- 
gation, and  do  not  hesitate  between  it  and  going  round  the 
Cape.  One  of  H.  B.  M.  vessels  of  war,  properly  equipped  for 
the  purpose,  is  now  engaged  in  surveying  the  Straits  of  Ma- 
gellan, and  it  is  to  be  hoped,  that  the  report  of  her  commander 
will  do  much  to  dispel  the  objections  to  taking  that  route  to 
the  Pacific. 

This  subject  is  one  which  merits  the  attention  of  navigators : 
and  if  each  one  would  forward  an  extract  from  his  log-book,  to 
some  of  the  public  journals,  with  such  observations  as  might 
suggest  themselves,  it  might  be  soon  settled.*  The  Sailor's 
Magazine  would,  no  doubt,  publish  any  thing  that  might  have 
a  tendency  to  clear  this  matter  from  the  uncertainty  at  present 
connected  with  it.  It  is  to  be  hoped,  that  navy  officers,  cruising 
in  the  Pacific,  will  not  be  backward  in  collecting  and  forward- 
ing information  upon  the  subject,  to  the  editor  of  the  " Mili- 
tary and  Naval  Magazine,"  which  ought  to  he  cherished  by 
the  talent  and  patronage  of  both  branches  of  the  service. 

From  latitude  22°  south,  in  the  Atlantic,  our  ship  was  fol- 
lowed to  Valparaiso  by  numbers  of  petrels,  or  Cape  pigeons. 
They  were  of  two  kinds,  the  spotted  and  the  silvery.  The  first 
is  rather  larger  than  the  domestic  pigeon,  but  from  the  thick- 
ness of  its  plumage,  weighs  much  less.   The  feet  are  three  toed 

•  SHfiman's  Journal  for  April,  1834,  contains  an  intcrc«t'n;r  article  on  tliis 
M.  P,  Maury,  of  the  United  statu  Navy. 


CAPE  HORN.  77 

and  webbed  ;  the  eyes  arc  black  ;  the  bill  hooked,  with  one 
exterior  nostril  ;  tail  short.  The  breast  is  beautifully  white, 
and  the  back,  wings,  and  tail,  spotted  black  and  white  ;  and 
from  that  circumstance,  Frezicr  says,  the  sailors  called  them 
damiers,  or  draught-boards.*  Its  motions  are  graceful.  It  sails 
about  the  stern  of  vessels  at  sea,  sometimes  balancing  itself 
upon  the  wing,  and  again  dropping  gently  to  the  surface,  to 
pick  up  any  crumbs  that  may  have  been  thrown  overboard, 
and  then  mounts  upon  its  untiring  course.  When  caught,  as 
many  were  with  hook  and  line  trailed  over  the  stern,  it  is  un- 
able to  rise  from  the  deck,  and  attempts  to  defend  itself  by 
ejecting  the  contents  of  the  stomach,  and  a  pure  yellow  oil  of 
a  fishy  odor. 

The  silver  variety  is  of  about  the  same  size.  The  breast  is  a 
brilliant  white,  and  the  back,  wings,  and  tail,  are  of  a  light 
leaden  hue,  but  of  silvery  brightness  ;  in  other  respects  it  does 
not  differ  very  much  from  the  first. 

On  the  Sth  of  October,  though  nearly  four  hundred  miles 
from  land,  (the  latitude  being  Gl°  49'  S.,  and  the  longitude 
74°  50'  W.)  the  birds  still  followed  us.  Besides  the  pigeons, 
numbers  of  albatross  were  caught  at  the  stern,  and  afforded 
fine  sport  to  many  persons  on  board.  On  the  ninth,  the  wind 
changed  from  west  to  south-west  by  west,  and  all  the  birds 
left  us,  but  returned  again  on  the  eleventh,  when  the  wind 
hauled  to  the  northward  and  westward,  and  remained  with  us 
till  we  arrived  at  Valparaiso.  The  largest  albatross  caught, 
measured  seven  feet  from  the  tip  of  one  wing  to  the  tip  of  the 
other. 

On  the  18th,  the  latitude  was  50°  2S'  S.,  and  the  longitude 
79°  53'  15"  W.,  and  we  all  indulged  in  the  hope  that  we  had 
passed  all  the  perils  and  tedium  of  the  Cape  ;  for  the  long, 
deep  blue  swell,  which  distinguishes  the  Pacific  from  the  At- 
lantic, was  now  remarked  by  every  body  ;  but  we  had  not  yet 
passed  "  where  Chiloe's  tempests  sweep,"  and  were  therefore 
disappointed.  On  the  19th  the  barometer  sunk  to  28.75  inches, 
and  we  soon  after  had  a  fresh  gale,  that  rendered  it  prudent  to 

*  Frezier  :  Voyage  to  the  South  Sea.  London.  1717. 


78  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"lie  to  under  a  close  reefed  main  topsail."  On  the  20th  we 
furled  the  main  topsail,  and  laid  to  under  "the  fore  and  aft 
sails,"  for  the  purpose  of  trying  the  qualities  of  the  ship,  more 
than  from  necessity,  and  it  was  not  till  the  24th,  that  we  got  a 
fine  hreeze  from  the  west.  Our  position  was,  that  day,  42°  41' 
south  latitude,  and  77°  45'  west  longitude.  From  that  time  the 
weather  remained  pleasant,  and  the  winds  favorable,  till  we 
arrived  at  Valparaiso. 


NOTICES    OF    CHILE. 


NOTICES    OF    CHILE. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Arrival  at  Valparaiso — Bay — Appearance  of  the  place — Landing — Town — 
Market — Scenes  in  the  street — Costume — Oracion — Plaza — Cries — Beggars. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  29th  of  October, 
1831,  after  a  passage  of  forty-nine  days  from  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
and  having  sailed  12,548  miles  from  New  York,  we  anchored 
in  the  bay  of  Valparaiso. 

Those  who,  on  the  voyage  to  the  "  Vale  of  Paradise,"  had 
anticipated  their  experience,  and  formed  a  picture  of  the 
place  in  their  imaginations,  from  written  descriptions,  found 
their  hearts  sink  with  disappointment  at  the  first  glance.  "Is 
this  the  lauded  'Vale  of  Paradise  !'  Is  this  the  spot  we  have 
heard  of  so  often  on  our  voyage,  as  the  scene  of  pleasure!" 
exclaimed  some  ;  "I  feel  no  inclination  to  go  ashore  at  such  a 
looking  place.  It  resembles  a  brick-kiln  more  than  a  town!  If 
the  lee  coast  be  no  better  than  this,  I  have  seen  enough  of  the 
Pacific."  Such  were  the  remarks  of  those  who  had  never 
twirled  in  the  waltz  with  the  fair  Chilenas,  nor  experienced 
the  hospitality  of  a  Chile  reception.  Yet  they  have  all  since 
learned,  that  social  pleasures  may  be  totally  independent  of 
locality  and  scenery — whatever  may  be  their  influence  upon 
the  imagination  and  the  mind. 

On  approaching  the  coast,  the  land  is  seen,  in  clear  weather, 
above  the  clouds,  capped  with  snow,  even  before  the  line  of 
11 


82  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

coast  is  perceived  above  the  horizon.  At  sunrise,  the  chain  of 
the  gigantic  Cordilleras  is  seen,  many  miles  at  sea,  in  their 
natural  and  desolate  grandeur.  Soon  after  the  sun  rises,  the 
land  is  shrouded  by  a  curtain  of  mist,  and  it  often  happens,  that 
fifty  or  sixty  miles  are  passed  over,  before  the  high  land  of  the 
coast  is  descried.  As  it  is  approached,  we  find  it  rocky,  stand- 
ing up,  broken  and  wild,  from  the  very  margin  of  the  ocean. 
Still  closer,  its  barrenness  proclaims  itself;  and  few  are  not 
disappointed,  when  they  discover,  in  midsummer,  that  vege- 
tation is  parched  and  dry.  In  midwinter,  which  is  the  rainy 
season,  all  nature  is  gay  ;  the  hills  are  green  ;  the  air  is  soft 
and  pleasant,  and  the  atmosphere  remarkably  clear.  Those  who 
arrive  at  this  period  are  always  delighted.  Thus  it  was,  in  the 
month  of  June,  that  a  late  traveller  saw  the  trees  and  bushes 
which  do  not  exist ;  but.  which  his  happy  fancy  created  from 
the  tall  cactus,  that  stands  as  an  indication  of  the  soil's  sterility. 
In  October,  when  the  rains  have  ceased,  and  their  influence  on 
the  wild  vegetation  is  no  longer  felt,  as  is  the  case  now,  the 
high  hills  of  Valparaiso  are  barren,  red,  and  bare  ;  scarce  a  bush 
is  seen,  and  nothing  but  the  "cardon"  (cactus)  outlives  the 
drying  winds  of  summer.  These  facts  go  far  to  reconcile  the 
discrepancies  of  various  descriptions.  Arrive  in  whatever 
month  they  may,  those  who  have  sojourned  here  a  few  days, 
seldom  rejoice  to  leave  ;  and  after  a  few  months  on  the  northern 
coast,  return  with  renewed  pleasure. 

This  bay,  which  opens  to  the  north,  is  bounded  by  a  land 
line  resembling  the  curve  of  a  sickle,  the  longer  part  of  which 
is  to  the  north,  and  is  ultimately  lost  in  the  coast ;  the  shorter 
curve  terminates  in  what  is  called  Valparaiso  point  From  it, 
across  the  mouth  of  the  bay,  to  the  northern  point,  called  Con- 
con,  is  nine  miles.  The  anchorage  is  in  the  south-western  part 
of  the  bay.  In  the  shorter  curve,  or  opposite  to  the  anchorage, 
is  sheltered  under  the  high  land,  "  La  ciudad  y  el  pucrto  dc 
Valparaiso."  Scarcely  allowing  room  for  a  single  .street  along 
the  beach,  the  hills  rise  perpendicularly  a  hundred  and  fifty 
feet,  then  fall  back  and  continue  to  rise  at  an  angle  of  about 
twenty-livo  degrees.  On  their  very  summit  is  erected  a  signal 
stall",  or  telegraph,  which  stands  two  thousand  feet  above  the 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  83 

sea.*  The  high  land  is  continuous  entirely  round  the  bay,  but 
is  thrown  into  waves  or  undulations  ;  and,  in  several  places,  is 
broken  into  deep  glens  or  gorges,  called  "quebradas,"  which 
embouchc  close  to  the  water's  edge. 

In  front  of  the  anchorage  is  a  high  bluff,  or  block  of  land, 
formed  by  a  "quebr&da"  running  on  either  side  of  it,  called 
Monte  Alegre,  and  sometimes  reproachfully,  "  Cerro  de  los 
Judeos,"  or  Jews'  Hill.  Upon  it  arc  built  several  fine  dwell- 
ings, occupied  by  English  and  American  residents,  who  live 
there,  almost  entirely  apart  from  the  natives,  forming  a  sort  of 
foreign  colony.  The  quebrada  on  the  right,  is  the  "  Quebrada 
de  San  Augustin  ;"  between  it  and  the  next — "  Quebrada  de 
San  Francisco" — are  the  ruins  of  the  former  castle  and  novcr- 
nor's  house,  which  were  shaken  'down  by  the  severe  earth- 
quake of  November,  1S22.1*  Farther  to  the  right,  the  high 
land  is  divided  by  quebradas  into  several  bluffs,  called  by  En- 
glish and  American  sailors,  "the  fore,  main,  and  mizen  tops." 
To  the  left  of  Monte  Alegre,  are  the  Catholic  and  Protestant 
burial  grounds,  separated  by  a  passage  twenty  feet  wide  ;  and 
not  far  from  them,  is  the  powder  magazine.  A  little  beyond 
this  point,  the  high  land  begins  to  recede,  leaving  a  broad  tri- 
angular plain,  upon  which  is  built  that  part  of  the  town  called 
the  "  Almcndral,"  or  Almond  Grove.  The  name  led  the  tra- 
veller before  alluded  to,  into  a  supposition  that  the  groves  seen 
from  the  anchorage  are  of  almond  trees,  but  there  are  not  more 
than  two  trees  of  the  kind  in  the  place.  What  he  saw,  are  the 
"Oliv&res,"  or  plantations  of  olive  trees,  of  which  there  are 
five  or  six  in  different  parts  of  this  section  of  the  town.  At  the 
end,  or  bottom  of  the  Almendral,  is  seen  the  road  to  Santiago, 
mounting  in  a  zigzag  line  over  the  hills,  or  "Altos  de  Valpa- 
raiso." At  the  foot  of  the  "  altos"  is  a  small  brook,  nearly  dry 
in  summer,  but  which  in  winter  swells  to  a  large  stream,  almost 
worthy  the  name  of  riVLr. 

To  the  northward  and  eastward,  and  about  three  miles  from 


*  Porter's  Journal. 

\  For  an  account  of  that  earthquake,  see  Miers'  Travels  in  Chile  and  La 
Plata.  London,  1826. 


84  THREE  TEARS  IN  TIIE   PACIFIC. 

the  bottom  of  the  Almendral,  is  a  small  fort,  under  the  guns  of 
which,  in  1814,  the  United  States  Ship  Essex  was  captured  by 
the  British,  after  a  gallant  resistance  of  a  superior  force,  and 
under  other  unequal  circumstances.*  In  the  same  direction,  the 
peak  of  Aconcagua,  the  bell  of  Quillota,  and  the  great  chain  of 
the  Cordilleras,  crowned  with  perpetual  snow,  close  this  pic- 
ture of  hills  and  mountains. 

"  Hill  peeps  o'er  hill,  and  Alps  on  Alps  arise." 

At  this  season,  (October,)  the  number  of  launches,  pulling 
"to  and  fro,"  loading  and  unloading  every  variety  of  craft,  under 
almost  every  flag,  announces  the  activity  of  trade.  Close  in  to 
the  western  shore,  are  moored  two  or  three  hulks,  which  formed 
a  part  of  the  expedition  to  Peru  under  San  Martin,  which  struck 
the  fatal  blow  to  Spanish  power  on  this  side  of  the  Andes.  The 
only  vessel  of  the  Chilian  Navy,  now  kept  in  commission,  is  a 
beautiful  brig  of  war ;  in  fact  the  only  one  that  has  any  preten- 
sions to  efficiency.  The  anchorage  is  considered  good  ;  though, 
at  certain  seasons,  it  is  dangerous.  In  winter,  which  is  from 
the  middle  of  May  to  the  end  of  August,  north  winds  prevail, 
and  throw  into  the  bay  a  swell  so  heavy,  that  vessels  some- 
times snap  their  cables,  and  are  driven  on  shore,  where  they 
soon  beat  to  pieces.  The  winter  is  also  the  rainy  season,  if  a 
dozen  rainy  days,  in  the  course  of  that  time,  can  be  so  called. 
The  most  implicit  reliance  is  placed  upon  the  indications  of 
changes  in  the  weather,  afforded  by  the  barometer;  so  soon  as 
it  begins  to  fall,  even  when  the  surface  of  the  mercury  becomes 
concave,  north  wind  and  rain  may  be  most  confidently  expect- 
ed ;  particularly,  if  the  land  to  the  northward  be  distinctly 
visible.  During  the  rest  of  the  year,  the  wind  prevails  from 
the  southward,  and  blows  at  times  so  strongly  that  ships  drag 
to  sea,  from  the  anchoring  ground  being  a  declivity  ; — the  same 
winds  bring  with  them  such  quantities  of  dust,  that  the  eyes 
of  people  walking  the  streets  suffer  severely. 

Previous  to  1830,  the  landing  was  upon  the  sand  beach.   In 

*  Porter*!  Journal. 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  85 

that  year  a  very  commodious  jetty  was  built,  under  the  di- 
rection of  an  officer  of  the  Chilian  Navy,  who  is  by  birth 
and  education  an  American.  In  less  than  a  year  after  it  was 
finished,  those  piles  which  were  not  defended  by  copper,  were 
completely  reduced  to  a  honeycomb  state,  by  a  curious  little 
animal,  called  an  auger  worm,  (terrido  navalis,)  from  the  re- 
semblance its  head  bears  to  the  common  auger.  It  is  small, 
white,  and  almost  gelatinous,  with  the  exception  of  the  head, 
which  is  armed  with  two  moveable  plates  of  shell,  by  which, 
it  is  presumed,  the  animal  perforates  the  wood.  As  it  advances 
in  the  work  of  destruction,  it  lengthens,  and  increases  in  size, 
constantly  enlarging  the  cell,  in  proportion  to  the  demand  for 
accommodation.  The  cell  is  lined  with  a  calcareous  coating, 
(the  secretion  of  the  animal)  similar  to  the  shells  of  the  mol- 
luscous tribes.  The  worm  sometimes  attains  several  feet  in 
length,  and  an  inch  in  diameter.  From  the  havoc  made  on  the 
jetty,  it  may  be  easily  inferred  what  would  be  the  fate  of  a 
vessel,  not  defended  by  copper,  were  she  to  remain  long  in 
this  port. 

The  town  of  Valparaiso  is  divided  into  the  Port  and  Almen- 
dral.  The  port  consists  of  one  irregular  street,  and  the  quebrd.- 
das,  which  are  built  in,  wherever  a  site  for  a  house  is  possibly 
attainable.  "  Ranchos,"  or  huts,  are  perched  about  on  the  hill 
sides,  like  great  birds'  nests,  wherever  a  resting  place  can  be 
scooped  out.  The  want  of  level  land  is  a  great  drawback  upon 
the  advancement  of  this  place ;  nevertheless,  it  improves  more 
rapidly  than  any  other  city  on  this  side  of  Cape  Horn.  Most 
of  the  houses  on  the  main  street,  are  good  two  story  buildings, 
occupied  on  the  ground  floor  by  stores  and  warerooms.  In  the 
eastern  part  of  the  Port,  and  in  the  Almendral,  the  houses  are 
only  one  story  high.  They  are  all  built  of  "  adobes,"  or  sun- 
dried  bricks,  white-washed,  and  roofed  with  red  tiles. 

The  great  square  or  plaza  is  small.  Lately,  it  has  been  much 
improved  by  being  paved,  and  by  the  erection  of  a  "  Cabildo," 
or  government  house,  on  one  side  of  it.  During  the  early  part 
of  the  day,  the  plaza  is  filled  with  trunks  made  of  hide,  full  of 
fruit,  vegetables,  and  baskets  of  poultry.  The  market  is  per- 
haps the  best,  and  is  certainly  the  cheapest  on  the  coast.    Be- 


86  TIIREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

yond  the  plaza,  is  a  second  market-place,  formed  of  booths, 
ranged  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square,  where  are  sold  butcher's 
meats,  as  well  as  vegetables  and  fruits.  The  native  method  of 
butchering,  is  very  different  from  ours;  instead  of  cutting  the 
animal  into  joints  and  pieces,  the  large  muscles  are  dissected 
out  separately,  which  is  well  adapted  to  the  ways  of  Chilian 
cookery.  Butcher's  meat  is  also  hawked  about  the  town  on 
jackasses,  which  generally  excites  disgust  in  the  stranger,  both 
from  the  dry,  dirty  appearance  of  the  meat,  and  the  savage, 
bloody  look  of  the  butcher,  who  carries  a  large  knife  in  the 
hand,  as  he  slowly  follows  the  ass,  crying,  in  a  drawling  tone, 
"carne  de  vaca," — or  "carne  carnero,"  beef,  or  mutton. 
There  are  one  or  two  English  butchers,  who  supply  the  foreign 
residents,  and  foreign  vessels  visiting  the  place.  Poultry  and 
game  are  plenty,  and  sold  at  reasonable  prices.  In  their  dilfer- 
ent  seasons,  varieties  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  in  abundance, 
are  brought  to  market  from  the  neighboring  valleys  of  Quillota, 
Milapilla,  and  Casablanca.  The  principal  fruits  are,  grapes, 
oranges,  (not  very  good),  apples,  pears,  peaches,  (which  have 
but  little  flavor,)  plums,  apricots,  nectarins,  lemons,  (both 
sweet  and  sour)  limes ;  figs  twice  a  year,  the  first  crop  being 
what  are  termed  "  brcvas,"  and  the  second  "higos ;"  strawber- 
ries of  a  very  large  size,  some  of  them  measuring  five  and  six 
inches  in  circumference,  but  of  very  inferior  flavor;  and  excel- 
lent musk  melons.  The  water  melons,  which  are  small,  but 
very  good,  form  a  large  portion  of  the  diet  of  the  lower  classes. 
The  Madeira  nut,  and  a  large  species  of  chestnut,  arc  very 
plenty.  There  is  another  nut,  called  "  pinon,"*  very  similar 
to  the  chestnut  in  taste.  The  vegetables  are,  potatoes,  yucas, 
cabbages,  cauliflowers,  cucumbers,  radishes,  pumpkins,  toma- 
toes, lettuce,  celery,  peas,  beans,  &c.    Neither  the  fruits  nor 


*  In  Spanish,  the /?7tfe(~)  over  then,  gives  to  the  word  in  which  the  n  occurs, 
the  same  sound  as  if  it  were  followed,  in  English,  by  the  letter  y,-  thus,  pinon 
is  pronounced  pinyone ;  tiiha,  as  if  written  ninya;  mahana,  as  if  written 
many  ana ;  Doha,  as  if  written,  Donya,  £tc. 

As  I  cannot  take  the  liberty  of  changing  the  Spanish  orthography,  I  have 
thought  best  to  give  the  above  explanation  now,  that  the  reader  may  not  be 
at  a  loss,  whenever  the  h  occurs  in  the  course  of  this  work. 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  87 

vegetables,  owing  to  some  peculiarity  of  soil,  possess  the  same 
excellence  of  flavor  as  those  of  Europe  and  the  United  States. 
The  best  are  the  grapes  and  figs.  The  fruit  trees  are  never 
grafted.  It  is  but  reasonable  to  suppose  that  greater  care  in 
their  cultivation  would  very  much  improve  the  taste  and  size 
of  the  fruits. 

Besides  all  the  good  things  of  the  land  mentioned,  the  bay 
and  its  neighboring  coasts  furnish  the  market  with  a  variety  of 
fine  fish.  Many  of  the  molluscous  animals,  taken  on  the  rocks, 
are  sold  in  the  plaza,  and  are  eaten  by  the  lower  classes. 
Amongst  them  are  several  species  of  Chiton,  called  "prende- 
d&rcs,"  or  squeezers,  from  their  habit  of  rolling  themselves  up 
very  strongly,  when  taken  from  the  rocks ;  one  or  two  of  Ba- 
lanus,  or  barnacle ;  a  large  species  of  JJonax;  several  of  the 
Fissurella  and  Patella;  and  one  which  is  styled  by  Blainville, 
Choncholepas  Peruvianus. 

From  the  greater  part  of  the  business  being  transacted  within 
a  small  space,  the  street,  in  the  morning,  presents  a  very  lively 
scene.  It  was  formerly  almost  impassable,  from  the  collecting 
together  of  a  great  number  of  ox-carts,  used  for  bringing  to 
market  the  produce  of  Santiago  and  the  surrounding  country. 
A  decree,  not  long  since  issued,  ordered  that  light  carts  should 
be  substituted  for  the  heavy  ones ;  but  the  evil  is  not  removed, 
for  those  now  in  use  are  nearly  as  large  as  the  old  "  carretas." 
Besides,  troops  of  laden  mules  and  jackasses  are  constantly 
passing  and  repassing ;  and  half  of  the  busy  world  of  Valpa- 
raiso being  constantly  on  horseback,  renders  it  necessary  to  be 
always  on  the  qui  vive  while  walking  the  street. 

In  front  of  the  landing  and  jetty  is  the  custom  house,  lately 
erected,  and  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  for  which  it  was  in- 
tended; and  to  the  left  are  the  "capitanfa,"  or  captain  of  the 
port's  office,  and  the  "resguardo,"  a  department  of  the  cus- 
tom house.  There  is  always  a  crowd  of  boatmen  sauntering 
about  this  spot,  ready  to  make  themselves  useful  when  there  is 
any  prospect  of  remuneration.  They  are  stout,  brawny,  ath- 
letic men,  with  good  humored  faces  of  a  light  olive  complexion  ; 
from  foreign  sailors  they  have  acquired  English  enough  to 
make  themselves  understood,  and  to  annoy  every  stranger  who 


8S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

passes.  The  moment  an  Englishman  or  an  American  comes 
in  sight,  a  half  dozen  of  these  men  run  forward,  calling,  "  you 
want  boty — me  holy  very  fine,"  at  the  same  time  rolling  up 
the  legs  of  their  trowsers  to  he  in  readiness  to  launch  one  of 
the  whale  boats  from  the  row  constantly  drawn  up  on  the 
beach  to  the  right  of  the  jetty.  If  the  stranger  maintain  silence, 
the  boatmen  dance  down  before  him,  looking  inquisitively  in 
his  face,  and  if  they  discover  he  really  wishes  to  embark,  they 
rush,  each  to  his  respective  boat,  and  holding  up  one  hand,  to 
attract  attention,  vociferate  or  cry  in  an  animated  tone,  "aqui, 
mi  patron — aqui,  me  boty."  If  the  "patron"  now  declare 
that  he  does  not  intend  to  go  afloat,  the  whole  crowd  set  up  a 
good  natured  shout  at  the  expense  of  their  disappointed  bro- 
thers. When  strangers  land,  the  boatmen  are  the  first  to  wel- 
come them  with  smiling  faces,  and  to  extend  an  arm  to  assist 
them  on  shore,  without  afterwards  expecting  a  reward  for  this 
natural  sort  of  politeness. 

Next  to  the  busy  appearance  of  the  street  and  the  landing, 
the  individuals  of  the  picture  attract  attention.  The  "agua- 
dores"  and  their  donkeys,  that  supply  every  family  with  water 
from  springs  in  the  different  quebradas,  stand  forth  conspicuous 
in  the  eyes  of  the  newly  arrived  North  American.  The  don- 
key carries  two  small  barrels  or  kegs,  suspended  one  on  either 
side,  in  a  wooden  frame  adapted  to  the  purpose ;  and  the 
"  aguador"  sits  en  croupe,  swinging  his  bare  legs,  first  one  and 
then  the  other,  as  if  spurring.  He  wears  a  coarse  cone  shaped 
hat  drawn  well  over  his  face,  a  shirt  with  sleeves  rolled  up 
above  the  elbow,  a  leather  apron,  something  like  that  of  a  black- 
smith, and  loose  trowsers  reaching  just  below  the  knee.  He 
carries  a  pole  about  six  feet  long,  armed  with  an  iron  curve  or 
hook  before  him,  lying  crosswise.  A  small  tinkling  bell,  at- 
tached to  the  saddle,  gives  notice  of  his  approach.  These  men, 
apparently  the  happiest  and  steadiest  fellows  in  the  world, 
manifest  a  sort  of  indifference  or  nonchalance  for  every  thing 
around  them  ;  having  learned  a  lesson  of  patience  from  the  ani- 
mal they  drive,  they  arc  never  in  haste,  nor  can  they  be  in- 
duced to  move  out  of  their  accustomed  pace.  When  the  wa- 
ter-carrier stops,  and   removes  one  of  the   barrels,  to  prevent 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  89 

the  other  from  dragging  the  saddle  round,  he  props  it  with  the 
pole  which  he  carries  for  that  purpose.  Water  is  worth  a  real 
(twelve  and  a  half  cents)  the  "cargo"  or  load. 

The  muleteers  also  wear  cone-shaped  straw  hats,  "ponchos," 
breeches  that  extend  below  the  knee,  "  botas"  or  leggings,  and 
hide  sandals,  with  great  spurs,  the  rowels  of  which  are  fre- 
quently three  and  even  four  inches  in  diameter.  The  "pon- 
cho" is  an  oblong  piece  of  cloth,  from  six  to  ten  feet  long,  and 
from  three  to  five  broad,  fringed  at  the  edges,  with  a  slit  in  the 
centre,  (bound  with  ribbon),  through  which  the  head  is  passed, 
leaving  the  ends  to  fall  down  in  careless  drapery  before  and 
behind,  so  as  to  conceal  the  upper  part  of  the  figure.  When 
the  poncho  becomes  too  warm,  or  otherwise  inconvenient,  it 
is  knotted  round  the  waist,  discovering  that  the  body  and 
shoulders  are  clothed  in  a  coarse,  dark  colored,  woollen  shirt 
or  frock,  with  short  sleeves.  The  poncho  is  of  every  variety 
of  color;  sometimes  plain,  and  sometimes  ornamented  with 
stripes  of  flowers  and  fancy  patterns  in  lively  colors.  This 
garment  is  universally  worn  by  all  classes  when  riding  on 
horseback ;  its  cost  varies,  according  to  the  material  of  which 
it  is  made,  from  four  to  a  hundred  dollars.  The  legs  are  de- 
fended by  a  pair  of  woollen  leggings,  of  a  dark  color,  striped 
or  plain,  extending  from  the  foot  half  way  up  the  thigh,  and 
secured  below  the  knee  by  a  tasselled  garter,  giving  to  the 
whole  figure  a  striking  and  unique  appearance.  The  "  botas," 
like  the  poncho,  are  worn  by  all  classes  when  on  horseback. 
Such  is  the  general  costume  of  the  "  arrieros"  and  "  peones" 
— muleteers  and  laborers — varying  only  in  the  fineness  of  the 
texture,  according  to  the  wearer's  purse.  The  spurs  of  the 
poorest  class  are  of  iron ;  but  the  ambition  of  every  man  in 
Chile  is  to  obtain,  next  to  a  fine  horse,  a  pair  of  huge  silver 
spurs.  The  mules  are  covered  on  either  side  with  thick  pads 
of  unsheared  sheep  skins,  upon  which  the  load  is  lashed  by 
thongs  or  ropes  of  hide.  That  he  may  stand  quiet,  when  laden 
or  unladen,  the  muleteer  blindfolds  the  animal  by  throwing 
the  poncho  over  his  eyes.  It  is  curious  to  see  laden  mules 
coming  in  from  the  country.  They  are  strung  together,  one 
behind  the  other,  by  a  hide  rope  or  halter,  leading  from  the 
12 


90  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

tail  of  the  one  to  the  neck  of  the  other,  in  succession,  with  a 
space  of  about  ten  feet  between  them. 

The  costume  of  gentlemen,  when  attending  to  business,  ge- 
nerally consists  of  a  short  jacket  of  white  or  blue  cloth,  ac- 
cording to  the  season,  and  a  felt,  or  straw  hat,  of  Manila  or 
Guayaquil  manufacture,  not  differing,  in  other  respects,  from 
that  of  the  United  States.  The  young  men  of  fortune  follow 
the  fashions  given  to  them  by  French  or  English  tailors. 

The  dress  of  the  ladies,  when  walking,  is  the  same  as  that 
termed  in  the  United  States  an  evening  dress.  They  wear 
neither  hats  nor  bonnets,  but  instead,  ornament  the  hair,  which 
they  know  how  to  arrange  in  excellent  taste,  with  two  or 
three  natural  flowers.  The  parasol  affords  protection  to  their 
complexion,  when  it  requires  any,  for  they  seldom  walk  till 
the  sun  has  in  a  degree  lost  his  power.  When  they  go  to 
church — which  they  do  every  morning  at  sunrise — they  dress 
in  black,  with  a  veil  or  mantilla  over  the  head. 

Reader,  be  kind  enough  to  picture  to  yourself  a  busy  crowd, 
composed  of  the  various  figures  I  have  attempted  to  sketch  ; 
moving  through  a  narrow  street  in  different  directions.  The 
"aguador"  threading  along  among  troops  of  mules  and  carts  ; 
merchants  discussing  the  quality  and  price  of  goods  ;  their 
clerks  hurrying  to  and  from  the  custom-house  ;  the  "guaso" 
or  countryman,  with  hat,  poncho,  botas,  and  spurs,  seated  in 
his  comfortable  saddle,  with  toes  thrust  into  the  sides  of  huge 
blocks  of  wood,  that  answer  the  place  of  stirrups,  guiding  his 
docile  animal  ;  ladies  in  their  walking  dress,  with  parasol,  and 
followed  by  little  Indian  servants,  from  Arauco  ;  the  "dul- 
cero,"  or  vender  of  sweetmeats,  crying  "  dulces  ;"  "merca- 
chifles,"  or  pedlars,  with  loads  of  ribbons  and  trifles,  praising 
in  stentorian  voices  the  cheapness  of  their  goods  ;  sailors,  riding 
horses  that  might  be  taken  for  the  descendants  of  the  famed 
"  Rocinante,"*  pushing  and  spurring  on  in  spite  of  all  obstacles. 


•  This  word  is  in  perfect  keeping  with  the  whole  of  that  inimitable  work  of 
Cervantes,  Don  Quixote ;  it  is  derived  from  rociti,  which  signifies  a  hack  horse, 
and  aiiU,  before  or  formerly. 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  91 

Fancy  all  these,  and  yon  may  have  an  idea  of  Valparaiso,  near 
the  landing,  on  a  week  day  morning. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  streets  are  almost  de- 
serted. At  that  hour  husiness  ceases  ;  the  natives  take  the 
"  siesta,"  or  afternoon  nap,  and  foreigners  go  home  to  dine. 
At  sunset  the  world  wakes  up,  and  the  street  becomes  again 
animated.  The  chandler  makes  his  appearance,  bearing  a  load 
of  dirty  tallow  candles,  strung  on  a  pole  over  his  shoulder, 
crying  "  velas  de  sebo" — tallow  candles ;  and  the  tinker  makes 
himself  heard,  shouting,  "el  hojalatero — vasinicas  de  hoja- 
lata  mui  baratas" — the  tinker,  chamber  utensils  of  tin — very 
cheap.  No  hour  could  be  more  appropriate  for  vending  these 
articles,  than  the  close  of  the  day!  Ladies  and  gentlemen  sally 
forth  at  this  hour,  for  the  "paseo,"  or  promenade;  at  this 
hour,  too,  is  "  oration," — the  church  bell  tolls,  and  every  body 
stands  silent  and  uncovered,  while  he  repeats  the  evening 
prayer.  In  a  few  seconds  the  bell  again  strikes,  and  every  one 
signs  himself  with  the  cross,  then  wishes  his  neighbour  a  good 
night.  On  these  occasions,  it  is  the  etiquette  for  the  eldest  in 
company  to  be  the  first  to  say  good  night ;  and  it  is  sometimes 
amusing  to  see  them  dispute  who  shall  begin ;  the  younger  ones 
present  leaving  it  to  their  seniors  to  make  this  sort  of  acknow- 
ledgment of  age — "Diga  Vmd,"  at  last  says  one — "No  Senor, 
diga  Vmd,"  replies  another; — "Say  you" — "No  Sir,  say 
you!" 

During  the  evening  the  shops  are  lighted,  and  the  streets  are 
enlivened  by  parties  of  ladies  "shopping."  On  Thursday 
nights,  a  military  band  serenades  the  governor  at  nine  o'clock, 
and  crowds  of  people  assemble  to  enjoy  it  with  him.  On  Satur- 
day nights  the  streets  are  particularly  gay.  The  plaza  is  sprink- 
led over  with  flat  baskets  of  shoes,  ranged  with  great  care, 
and  lighted  by  a  tallow  candle,  stuck  upon  their  sides  ;  it  is  a 
custom  of  great  antiquity  for  ladies  to  repair  there  to  purchase 
shoes,  for  it  is  said,  the  Chilenas  require  a  new  pair  every 
week.  The  size  is  ascertained  by  measuring  them  with  the 
spread  fingers;  and  perhaps  experience,  gained  by  the  frequency 
of  fitting  themselves,  is  of  considerable  advantage. 

Even  until  very  late  at  night,  men  are  heard  crying  through 


92  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE  PACIFIC. 

the  street,  "  accitunas" — olives  ;  and  "  picAntes" — morsels  of 
meat  and  vegetables  highly  spiced.  Both  during  the  day  and 
night,  beggars  sit  at  the  corners,  with  their  feet  drawn  up  be- 
neath them,  their  hands  in  an  imploring  posture,  crying  in  a 
whining,  nasal  tone,  to  every  passer-by,  "una  limosna  porun 
pobre,  por  el  amor  de  Dios" — alms  for  a  poor  man,  for  God's 
sake.  These  appeals,  however,  are  seldom  heeded.  On  Satur- 
days, it  is  a  universal  custom,  I  believe,  in  all  South  America, 
as  well  as  in  Spain,  for  beggars  to  throng  the  streets,  and  ask 
alms  in  the  name  of  their  patron  saints.  There  is  scarcely  a 
family,  that  has  not  a  certain  number  of  mendicants  to  whom 
it  gives  something  on  Saturdays,  but  refuses  charity  to  all  others, 
and  to  them  also  on  all  other  days.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  meet 
old  men  on  horseback,  beseeching  charity  in  the  most  piteous 
tones; — "un  mediocito  por  amor  de  Dios" — a  medio  (6^ 
cents)  for  the  love  of  God.  The  diminutive,  cito,  is  added,  to 
lessen  in  appearance  the  amount  of  the  gratuity  asked.  I  am 
not  aware  how  much  this  custom  bears  upon  the  proverb,  about 
"set  a  beggar  on  horseback,"  &c,  or  whether  it  has,  in  fact, 
any  truth  in  Chile. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Society — Introduction  to  a  Family — Costume — Furniture — Mate" — Singing1 — 
Cigars — Presenting  of  Flowers — Leave-taking — Traits  of  Character — A  day 
visit — Anecdote — Tertiilia  on  a  Sunday  evening — Dancing — **  El  cudndo" 
— "La  Perdiz" — Foreign  Society. 

The  conventional  customs  of  society  in  Valparaiso,  diner  in 
many  respects  from  those  of  the  United  States.  Day  visiting, 
except  on  Sundays,  is  not  usual,  which  is  the  reverse  with  us, 
that  day  being  set  aside  for  the  worship  of  the  Deity.  Yet,  on 
becoming  intimately  acquainted  with  any  family,  it  may  be 
visited  at  all  times,  without  any  one  thinking  it  improper,  or 
even  hazarding  a  conjecture  as  to  the  motive,  should  the  calls 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  93 

be  frequent.  At  sunset  the  ladies  are  generally  prepared  to  re- 
ceive company,  and  expect  it.  The  history  of  my  first  visit 
will  give  a  better  idea  of  the  forms  of  society,  than  a  simple 
rehearsal  of  them. 

I  followed  a  friend  into  a  drawing  room,  furnished  in  the 
Chile  fashion,  with  tables,  mirrors,  a  sofa,  a  piano,  and  a  great 
number  of  chairs,  ranged  in  two  rows  facing  each  other,  on  that 
side  of  the  room  where  the  sofa  stood.  A  "pet&te,"  or  thick  straw 
mat,  covered  the  floor,  and  a  strip  of  carpet  was  laid  only  under 
the  chairs  on  one  side  of  the  room.  It  was  twilight,  and  can- 
dles had  not  been  yet  brought.  Three  ladies  sat  upon  the  sofa, 
conversing,  with  their  feet  drawn  up  under  them,  a  la  Turque, 
while  a  fourth  stood  looking  through  a  glass  door  that  opened 
upon  a  balcony,  beating  one  of  the  panes  with  her  fingers,  as  if 
it  had  been  a  piano,  and  humming  a  waltz.  The  evening  was 
cool,  and  the  ladies  were  all  covered  with  large  shawls,  the 
right  corner  being  thrown  over  the  left  shoulder,  so  as  to  bury 
the  chin  in  its  folds,  much  after  the  manner  that  dandies  wear 
the  Spanish  cloak.  In  the  winter,  this  custom  is  universal ; 
then  the  nose  and  chin  are  hidden  in  the  shawl,  the  eyes  only 
being  seen  above  the  fold.  During  that  season,  having  neither 
hearths  nor  chimneys  in  the  house,  except  for  the  kitchen,  the 
ladies  keep  warm  by  placing  a  "brazero,"  or  copper  pan  of 
well  burned  charcoal,  near  the  sofa,  with  a  basket,  made  for 
the  purpose,  turned  over  it,  upon  which  they  rest  their  feet, 
or  even  sit.  As  we  entered  the  apari,ment,  which  was  high  and 
airy,  the  ladies  on  the  sofa  ceased  their  conversation,  and  bent 
forward  in  formal  salutation,  as  my  conductor  said,  "^Como 
pasan  ustedes,  Senoritas  ?  Un  Amigo!" — How  do  you  do, 
ladies?  A  friend — pointing  to  me  as  he  pronounced  the  last 
word.  The  lady  who  was  humming,  curtsied  and  took  a  chair. 

"Que  fresquito  es  la  noche,  Don  Samuel! — the  evening 
is  a  little  cool,  Don  Samuel ! — ask  your  friend  to  be  seated," 
said  the  eldest  lady  to  my  cicerone,  and  then  resumed  the  con- 
versation for  a  moment  with  the  three  young  ladies,  who  were 
her  daughters.  I  felt  very  much  as  if  I  were  not  welcome, 
from  the  cold  reception  we  had  received.  Presently  long  tal- 
low candles  with  thick  wicks  were  brought  in,  and  one  set 


94  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

upon  each  of  the  tables,  placed  under  the  mirrors  ;  this  gave 
me  an  opportunity  to  survey  the  arrangement  of  the  furniture 
already  mentioned.  A  glance  showed  me  that  the  three  sisters 
were  delicate  brunettes,  with  fine  black  eyes,  wearing  the  hair 
in  two  large  ringlets  or  rather  rolls  on  either  temple,  while 
that  of  the  back  of  the  head  was  folded  over  a  very  large  tor- 
toise shell  comb  of  beautiful  workmanship,  en  Jiligrane. 
Many  of  the  combs  worn  in  Chile  measure  from  eighteen 
inches  to  two  feet  around  the  top  !  The  shawls  were  of  Canton 
crape,  embroidered  with  flos  silk,  (the  work  of  the  ladies'  own 
hands),  and  the  dresses  of  French  muslin  of  gay  patterns.  The 
only  ornaments  in  the  hair  were  natural  roses  and  pinks,  dis- 
posed with  much  taste.  The  expression  of  their  countenances 
was  grave,  intelligent,  and  rather  pleasing.  When  the  lights 
were  brought,  the  ladies  on  the  sofa  slipped  their  feet  to  the 
floor,  adjusted  their  dresses,  and  Dofia  Juana,  the  mother,  said, 
"  <;E1  Senor,  habla  Castelldno?" — "  Does  the  Gentleman  speak 
Spanish  ?"  My  friend  replied  that  I  did,  and  said  to  me  in 
English,  "  now  I  shall  leave  you  to  make  acquaintance  your- 
self." 

"  <;  Usted  es  recien  llegado,  Senor  ?" — "  You  are  recently  ar- 
rived, Sir."    This  question  was  followed  by  several  others, 
and  the  good  lady  seemed  to  manifest  great  interest  in  all  my 
replies,  expressing  a  hope  that  I  would  be  pleased  with  Chile. 
"<;  Que  sera"  la  gracia  de  usted,  Caballero  ?" — "  What  is  your 
(Christened)  name,  Cavalier?"  asked  Doila  Carmencita,  the 
eldest  daughter.     "  Francisco,  para  servir  &  usted,  Senorita," 
— "Francis,  at  your  service,  Miss,"  I  replied. 
"Are  you  fond  of  music,  Don  Francisco? 
"Yes!  very — do  you  play?" 

"A  little" — then  she  requested  her  youngest  sister,  Doiia 
Ignacita,  to  play  "alguna  cosita,"  some  little  thing.  The 
young  lady  obeyed  the  request,  as  if  it  had  been  a  mandate, 
opened  the  piano,  and  played  several  waltzes,  at  the  end  of 
each  of  which,  Don  Samuel  said,  "mui  bien,  Senorita" — 
"Very  well,  Miss." 

She  was  interrupted  by  a  female  servant,  (a  slattern  by  the 
way)  bringing  in  a  tray  of  tea  and  maU,  followed  by  a  young 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  95 

Indian  girl  from  Arauco,  bearing  a  silver  salver  of  cakes,  &c. 
The  Araucanians,  when  taken  and  instructed  young,  make  ex- 
cellent servants;  and  there  is  scarcely  a  family  without  one  in 
its  service,  particularly  where  there  are  young  ladies.  This 
race  has  borne  the  character  of  fierce  and  warlike  from  the 
earliest  times  ;  their  valor  and  martial  prowess  have  been  cele- 
brated in  an  epic  of  thirty-seven  cantos,  entitled  "La  Arau- 
cana,"  by  Don  Alonzo  de  Ercilla  y  Zuniga. — Speaking  of  the 
country  of  Arauco,  he  says, 

"  Ve*nus  y  Aman  aqui  no  alcanzan  parte, 
Solo  domina  el  iracundo  Marte." 

The  "mate,"  or,  as  it  is  familiarly  called,  "yerba  mate," 
(Hex  Paraguensis),  is  a  plant  of  Paraguay,  used  in  almost 
every  part  of  South  America,  as  a  substitute  for  tea.  It  ar- 
rives in  Chile  from  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  by  the  way  of  Cape 
Horn,  or  by  crossing  the  Cordilleras,  packed  in  bales  of  hide. 
It  presents  to  the  eye  a  greenish  yellow  dust,  in  which  are 
mingled  broken  leaves  and  stems  of  the  plant.  This  mate- 
rial, infused  in  boiling  water,  forms  the  "mate,"  which  every 
where  in  Chile,  previous  to  the  revolution,  was  substituted 
for  the  more  costly  tea  of  China ;  since  that  period,  the  old 
ladies  only  adhere  to  the  practice,  while  the  young  ones, 
more  refined  in  taste,  prefer  sipping  Young  Hyson  or  Bohea, 
from  a  gilt  edged  China  tea-cup.  The  "yerba,"  with  sugar 
and  the  outer  rind  of  orange  or  lemon  peel,  or  pieces  of  cin- 
namon, are  placed  in  a  globular  vessel  holding  about  a  gill, 
and  boiling  water  is  poured  in  upon  them.  The  vessel  con- 
taining the  infusion,  termed  "a  mate,"  is  either  entirely  of 
silver,  or  of  a  small  gourd,  banded  with  silver,  supported  by 
a  stem  and  plate  of  the  same  metal.  A  silver  cover,  perforated 
with  a  hole  for  the  passage  of  the  "  bombilla,"  and  secured  to 
the  side  by  a  chain,  serves  to  retain  the  heat  and  aroma  of  the 
plant.  The  "bombilla"  is  a  tube  from  ten  to  twelve  inches 
long,  terminated  at  one  end  by  a  bulb  (not  unlike  that  of  a 
thermometer)  pierced  with  many  small  holes ;  like  "  the  mate," 
it  is  silver,  or  consists  of  a  cane  tube  with  a  metal  bulb. 
Such  is  the  apparatus  from  which  the  elderly  Chilenas  sip, 


96  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

or  rather  suck  their  favorite  beverage,  at  a  temperature  very- 
little  below  that  of  boiling  water.  Doila  Juana  took  "  the 
matey  and  after  two  or  three  sips,  offered  it  to  me,  to  try 
whether  it  were  pleasant;  however  willing  I  might  have  been 
to  receive  the  tube  into  my  mouth,  immediately  after  coming 
from  the  pouting  lips  of  her  daughters,  I  must  confess,  I  felt 
some  repugnance  to  suck  the  same  stem  with  Dofia  Juana. 
Yet,  recollecting  that  one  of  Bazil  Hall's  officers  had  given 
offence  by  carrying  a  "bombilla"  for  his  peculiar  use,  I  took 
"the  mate,"  and  finding  it  agreeable  in  flavor,  did  not  relin- 
quish it  until  1  had  drawn  it  to  the  dregs.  Those  who  take 
"  mate"  for  the  first  time,  usually  burn  their  lips  ;  and  it  is  the 
only  mistake  at  which  ladies  laugh ;  in  fact,  a  cynic  could 
scarcely  keep  his  countenance :  fancy  a  gentleman  pressing  a 
hot  silver  tube  between  his  lips,  jerking  back  his  head  in  sur- 
prise, then  resorting  to  his  handkerchief  to  dry  his  eyes,  and 
while  he  does  so,  attempting  to  smile — the  tout  ensemble  pro- 
duces the  most  whimsical  expression  of  countenance  imagi- 
nable. Two  or  three  "  mates"  are  generally  quite  sufficient  to 
supply  a  company  of  eight  or  ten  persons ;  for  they  are  passed 
from  mouth  to  mouth  till  all  are  satisfied.  When  the  fluid  is 
exhausted,  "  the  mate"  is  replenished  with  sugar,  and  hot 
water  from  a  silver  kettle,  usually  placed  in  the  room  upon  a 
small  "  brazero"  of  living  coals. 

The  young  ladies  preferred  tea,  and  I  joined  in  the  prefer- 
ence, though  I  do  not  think  mate  disagreeable  to  the  taste. 
The  whole  was  carried  out  at  the  expiration  of  a  few  minutes. 
Mate  drinking,  or  rather  sipping,  is  fast  going  out  of  fashion, 
and  in  the  haut  ton  is  now  seldom  seen. 

Dofia  Panchita,  the  second  sister,  played  several  marches, 
and  then  Dofia  Carmencita,  upon  our  solicitation,  took  her 
seat  at  the  instrument,  ran  her  fingers  over  the  keys,  and  ac- 
companied herself  in  Rossini's  "0  Dolce  ingratapatria."  She 
sang  with  skill,  and  executed  with  much  taste  ;  but  she  had  the 
nasal  enunciation,  which  is  very  general  with  all  the  Chilcnas 
when  they  sing,  and  which  is  exceedingly  disagreeable  to  those 
unaccustomed  to  it. 

The  music  had  the  effect  of  removing,  in  a  considerable  dc- 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  97 

gree,  the  restraint  which  I  felt  at  our  reception.  The  first 
waltz  on  the  piano  dispelled  the  stiffness  of  conversation,  which 
was  afterwards  carried  on  during  the  whole  evening  with  great 
vivacity. 

When  Dona  Carmencita  ended  her  song,  a  small  silver  globe 
(supported  on  a  stem  and  plate,  like  the  mate-cup,)  holding  a 
single  coal,  was  brought  in,  and  Dona  Juana  begged  us  to  enjoy 
our  cigars  the  same  as  if  we  were  at  home. — "  Don  Francisco, 
porque  no  pita  usted  su  cigaro?  haga  usted  lo  mismo,  como  en 
su  misma  casa."  "  Don  Francisco,  why  do  you  not  smoke  your 
cigar? — do  the  same  as  if  you  were  in  your  own  house." — 
Adopting  the  maxim,  u  Borne  comme  a  Rome,  we  indulged 
ourselves  in  smoking  one  of  the  cigars  of  Chile,  called  "  hojas," 
or  "hojitas."    They  are  about  two  inches  and  an  half  long; 
the  wrapper  is  made  of  the  inner  husk  of  corn,  and  filled  with 
coarsely  powdered  tobacco.    As  their  use  is  apt  to  stain  the 
fingers  of  the  smoker,  the  fashionable  young  gentlemen  carry 
a  pair  of  delicate  gold  tweezers  for  holding  them.     The  cigar 
is  so  small  in  size,  that  it  requires  not  more  than  three  or  four 
minutes  to  smoke  one.     It  serves  well  to  fill  up  an  interval  in 
conversation.    At  tertulias,  the  gentlemen  sometimes  retire  to 
a  balcony,  to  smoke  one  or  two  cigars  after  a  dance. 

About  eight  o'clock,  a  party,  consisting  of  four  ladies  and 
two  gentlemen,  came  in.    The  same  stiffness  of  reception  was 
manifest  on  their  entrance,  except  that  the  ladies  rose  from 
their  seats,  and  embraced  their  female  guests  one  after  the 
other.    Yet  the  conversation  was  soon  very  animated,  dresses 
were  criticised,  the  theatre  spoken  of;  and  it  was  mentioned 
as  a  profound  secret,  that  a  ball  was  to  be  given  by  some  one 
of  their  mutual  friends.    Then  the  subject  changed  to  the  in- 
disposition of  some  one  of  the  family,  and  each  lady  recited  a 
long  list  of  remedies  which  were  infallible,  relating  how  such 
a  one  had  suffered  from  the  same  disease.    I  inferred  from  the 
whole  discussion,  that  a  violent  quack  medicine  called  "Pan- 
quimagogo,"  was  the  most  effectual,  as  well  as  the  most  popu- 
lar of  all  remedies,  in  all  diseases. 

Soon  after  the  arrival  of  the  ladies  and  gentlemen,  ices,  cakes, 
liqueurs,  and  water,  were  served  to  all.  The  conversation  did 
13 


98  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

not  flag ;  and  I  was  impressed  with  the  fact,  that  the  ladies  fre- 
quently displayed  considerable  archness  and  humor  in  their  re- 
marks; and  this  I  found  to  be  the  case  in  all  my  intercourse 
with  Chilian  society. 

Just  before  taking  leave,  Doiia  Ignacita  left  the  room,  and 
returned  in  a  few  minutes  with  a  handful  of  flowers,  and  pre- 
sented one  to  each  of  the  guests,  in  a  manner  that  was  very 
graceful,  her  face  being  lighted  up  with  smiles;  yet  she  said 
not  a  word.  This  universal  custom  of  presenting  flowers  to 
guests,  is  a  beautiful  token  of  welcome ;  and  where  they  are 
not  offered,  it  is  certain  that  the  visiter  has  not  made  a  favor- 
able impression,  and  a  repetition  of  his  visits  will  not  be  ac- 
ceptable. This  presentation  is  made  on  the  three  or  four  first 
visits,  but  is  afterwards  omitted.  Of  the  origin  of  this  custom, 
I  know  nothing ;  yet  I  was  pleased  with  it,  and  bore  off  my 
rose  as  an  emblem  of  friendship,  and  valued  it  more  when  I 
came  to  understand  the  full  force  of  this  kind  of  language. 

When  we  took  leave,  the  ladies  again  embraced  their  female 
guests ;  and  Doiia  Juana  said  to  me,  "  Senor  Don  Francisco,  ya 
sabe  usted  la  casa,  y  es  a  la  disposicion  de  usted." — "Don 
Francisco,  now  you  know  the  house,  and  it  is  at  your  disposal." 
I  thanked  her,  and  said,  I  should  take  great  pleasure  in  repeat- 
ing my  visit.  "Cuando  guste  usted  Caballero."  "When  you 
please,  Cavalier,"  she  replied,  and  turned  to  my  friend  Don 
Samuel,  and  said,  "  no  olvide  usted  la  noche  de  Domingo,  y 
diga  a  su  amigo,  que  venga  tambien." — "  Dont  forget,  Sunday 
night,  and  tell  your  friend  to  come  also  !" 

Such  are,  generally,  the  events  and  ceremonies  of  a  first  visit 
on  a  week  day  evening.  It  will  be  observed,  that  I  was  intro- 
duced as  a  friend,  without  my  name  being  mentioned,  nor  was 
any  other  than  my  Christian  name  asked,  until  my  third  or 
fourth  visit.  After  that  the  flowers  are  not  given,  unless  other 
strangers  be  present,  when  the  old  acquaintances  also  receive 
the  compliment,  in  common  with  the  rest  of  the  company. 
There  is  something  so  very  amiable  in  the  character  of  the 
Chilenas,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  not  to  be  pleased  in  their 
society.  Foreigners  who  arc  unable  to  speak  Spanish  well,  are 
always  treated  with  the  greatest  indulgence,  as  respects  errors 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  99 

of  speech,  and  always  receive  encouragement  from  the  ladies; 
they  anticipate  a  part  of  the  sentence,  when  they  ohservc  the 
speaker  embarrassed,  but  never  in  such  a  way  as  to  make  him 
feel  that  it  is  for  correction  ; — then  they  are  so  patient,  and 
speak  so  slowly  for  him,  and  never  laugh,  or  even  smile,  at  his 
most  ludicrous  mistakes.  I  will  observe  here,  that  the  best 
way  to  learn  to  speak  Spanish,  is  first  to  become  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  the  conjugation  of  the  verbs,  then  visit  the  la- 
dies, and  talk,  right  or  wrong — 

"  Thus  Juan  learn'd  his  alpha  beta  better 
From  Haidee's  glance,  than  any  graven  letter." 

I  think  Lord  Byron  good  authority  for  this  at  least.  The  gram- 
matical construction  of  the  language  may  be  studied  with  more 
advantage,  after  the  student  is  able  to  speak  it,  than  before. 

My  second  visit  to  Doila  Juana,  was  between  the  hours  of 
twelve  and  one  o'clock  in  the  day.  I  found  two  of  the  young 
ladies  seated  at  their  frames,  embroidering  shawls,  in  very 
beautiful  patterns.  They  wore  the  shawl,  and  the  hair  was 
braided  and  hanging  down  the  back.  Doiia  Carmencita  was 
sitting  on  the  sofa,  h  la  Turque,  with  a  book  in  her  lap,  and 
stooping  forward,  in  such  a  way  that  her  hair,  which  was  loose 
and  wet,  formed  a  complete  veil  for  her  face.  On  my  entrance, 
she  laid  her  hair  behind  her  ears,  and  closed  her  book.  Her  sis- 
ters pushed  aside  their  work,  and  adjusted  their  shawls  and 
dresses.  The  shawl  of  a  Chilian  belle  is  a  most  rebellious  and 
troublesome  article  of  dress,  for  it  will  be  constantly  slipping  oft" 
the  shoulder,  and  so  disclose  a  pretty  neck  and  upper  part  of  the 
bust,  which  the  young  ladies  are  ever  anxious  to  conceal.  La- 
dies never  pursue  their  needle-work  in  the  presence  of  stran- 
gers, or  rather  visiters,  as  it  is  considered  impolite ;  from  this 
circumstance,  foreigners  have  charged  them  with  being  idle. 
Yet  when  it  is  recollected  that  there  are  no  mantua-makers  in 
Chile,  and  that  the  ladies  make  their  own  dresses,  they  must 
be  exonerated  from  that  accusation.  They  are  always  neat  in 
the  decoration  of  their  feet ; — silk  stockings  are  universally 
worn. 

Dona  Carmencita  apologized  for  the  state  of  her  parare,  say- 


100  TnREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

ing  that  she  had  just  been  washing  her  hair  in  a  solution  or 
suds  of  "quillai,"  and  it  had  not  yet  dried.  The  "  quillai" 
is  the  bark  of  the  Quillaja  Saponaria,  Molina,  a  large  tree 
growing  at  the  foot  of  hills,  and  in  the  mountain  valleys  of 
Chile.  When  the  bark  is  broken  into  small  pieces,  and  infused 
in  cold  water,  it  forms  a  suds  similar  to  that  of  soap.  With 
this,  the  ladies  of  Chile  are  in  the  habit  of  washing  their  heads, 
once  in  about  ten  days  ;  they  say  it  preserves  the  scalp  from 
dandruff;  it  certainly  gives  the  hair  a  very  clean,  glossy  ap- 
pearance. Besides,  it  is  also  useful  for  cleansing  cloths,  silks, 
and  crapes,  from  grease,  without  injuring  either  their  texture 
or  color,  and  is  sometimes  used  as  a  medicine. 

The  ladies  were  very  conversable,  and  made  many  inquiries 
about  the  United  States,  the  North  American  ladies,  their 
amusements,  dress,  &c.  They  spoke  of  the  Peruvian  ladies  as 
being  distinguished  for  their  intrigues  and  want  of  modesty, 
and  as  an  illustration,  Doiia  Juana  related  the  following  anec- 
dote. 

A  Marquesa  was  walking  towards  her  home  one  evening, 
concealed  in  the  peculiar  dress  of  the  country,  called  "  saya 
y  manto,"  and  was  spoken  to  by  an  unknown  young  gentle- 
man in  a  cloak,  who  importuned  her  to  go  to  a  caffc  and  ac- 
cept of  some  refreshment.  She  finally  consented.  After  partak- 
ing of  ices,  cakes,  and  costly  wines,  to  an  amount  so  great  that 
she  thought  her  beau  would  not  have  money  enough  in  his 
purse  to  pay,  she  called  the  host  aside,  (whom  she  knew  well,) 
and  told  him  not  to  permit  the  gentleman  to  leave  the  house 
till  he  had  paid,  nor  to  accept  from  him  any  other  pledge  than 
his  pantaloons  ;  for  which  service  the  landlord  was  to  receive 
a  douceur.  The  young  gentleman's  purse  could  not  cover  one 
half  the  amount  of  the  charge,  and  mine  host  vowed  that  he 
must  have  the  whole  before  he  left.  The  young  gentleman 
offered  his  watch  in  pledge,  which  was  obstinately  refused. 
The  marquesa  grew  impatient  at  the  delay,  and  urged  her 
beau  to  make  haste,  or  she  would  leave  him.  The  landlord  de- 
manded the  pantaloons.  The  young  gentleman  was  indignant, 
and  referred  the  case  to  his  fair  enchantress,  who,  after  some 
coaxing,  persuaded  him  to  yield  his  pantaloons,  roll  his  cloak 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  101 

about  him,  and  accompany  her  home.  He  consented.  She  de- 
lighted the  victim  of  her  sport  with  her  lively  jeux  tfesprit, 
as  they  walked  along,  and  at  last  ushered  him  into  a  splendidly 
furnished  room,  occupied  by  a  brilliant  party  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen.  The  youth  would  have  escaped,  but  the  fair  one 
held  him  tight  by  the  arm,  and  conducted  him  to  a  seat.  He 
drew  his  cloak  closer  around  him,  and  bent  his  feet  under  his 
chair.  The  marquesa  introduced  several  of  her  female  friends 
to  him,  after  giving  them  a  hint  of  her  joke.  The  young  ladies 
insisted  that  he  must  be  very  warm,  but  he  thought  it  was 
cold  ; — they  urged  him  to  dance,  but  he  vowed  he  could  not. 
At  last  the  ladies  became  rude,  and,  forcibly  removing  the 
cloak  from  the  young  cavalier's  shoulders,  exposed  him  to  the 
whole  company,  standing  in  his  drawers  and  boots;  after  being 
heartily  laughed  at,  he  was  turned  out  of  doors! 

When  Dona  Carmencita  told  the  story,  I  asked  whether  she 
believed  it.  She  replied,  laughing,  "Quien  sabe  puez!" — Who 
knows  then!  This  expression  is  very  constantly  used  by  the 
Chilians,  and  the  word  puez  is  employed  frequently  without 
any  meaning  being  attached  to  it.  Puez  bien,  puez  bueno, 
puez  si,  puez  no,  are  universally  used.  Not  unfrequently, 
when  a  pause  occurs  in  company,  the  dead  silence  will  be 
broken  by  some  one  exclaiming,  with  a  sigh,  "  Puez  si  Sefior!" 
which  serves  as  a  starting  point  for  conversation. 

On  a  Sunday  evening,  I  accompanied  my  friend,  Don  Samuel, 
"to  assist"  at  the  tertulia  given  weekly  by  Doiia  Juana.  We 
found  a  number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  old  and  young,  pretty 
and  plain,  already  assembled.  The  ladies  were  ranged,  seated 
facing  each  other,  in  a  long  file,  extending  across  the  room, 
the  appearance  of  which  was  much  improved  by  the  carpet 
being  spread  entirely  over  the  "petate,"  or  mat.  In  the  United 
States  the  carpets  are  always  taken  up  for  soirees  or  tertulias 
(preferring  the  latter  word),  when  dancing  forms  a  part  of  the 
amusement ;  but  here,  on  the  contrary,  they  are  always  spread 
for  that  purpose,  and  kept  rolled  up  to  one  side  of  the  apart- 
ment at  other  times.  Even  at  public  balls,  the  dancing  room  is 
always  carpeted  ;  the  reason  for  this  practice  is  that  the  floors 
are  of  tiles. 


102  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

The  gentlemen  were  slowly  pacing  the  apartment,  standing 
in  squads  of  two  or  three,  or  conversing  with  the  ladies  ;  and 
two  or  three  were  walking  in  the  balcony,  smoking  "hojitas." 

The  ladies,  now  laughing  and  talking,  had  thrown  aside  the 
shawl,  and  displayed  the  bust  and  figure,  beautified  by  the  aid 
of  all  the  little  machinery  of  a  female  toilette.  In  this  particu- 
lar, they  do  not  manifest  less  taste  than  the  ladies  of  other 
countries,  who  pay  a  moderate  respect  to  the  great  tyrant — 
Fashion.  The  Chilenas  have  been  accused  of  using  pink-sau- 
cers, and  flake  white,*  yet,  so  far  as  my  observation  goes,  I 
think  most  unjustly.  I  would  not,  however,  defend  every  lady, 
in  this  or  any  other  country,  from  the  charge  of  using  "afeites" 
— which  word  includes  all  those  articles  used  for  beautifying 
the  face,  as  rouge,  pearl  powder,  pink-saucers,  flake  white, 
moveable  or  extra  curls,  and  the  long  list  of  cosmetics.  I  pre- 
sume, as  a  general  rule,  that  female  vanity,  caeteris paribus, 
is  nearly  the  same  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  Where  intellectual 
qualifications  are  esteemed  superior  to  those  of  a  personal  kind, 
women  of  cultivated  minds  will  scorn  to  attract  the  other  sex 
by  the  means  alluded  to  ;  but  can  we  blame  those  born  where 
female  excellence  is  estimated  to  consist  of  mere  animalitt'y 
for  helping  nature,  when  she  has  been  sparing  in  bestowing 
personal  beauties,  by  the  use  of  those  "afeites!" 

Tea,  coffee,  &c.  were  served  as  with  us,  and  afterwards  one 
of  the  ladies  took  a  seat  at  the  piano.  While  she  was  preluding, 
a  gentleman,  styled  "el  bastoncro"  (who  is  some  intimate, 
self-elected  for  the  evening)  cried  out,  "  Contradanza  Se- 
fiores" — Contradance,  Gentlemen" — upon  which  intimation, 
they  led  forth  their  partners,  and  stood  up  in  order.  The  mu- 
sic commenced  ;  the  time,  that  of  a  slow  waltz.  That  the  grace 
and  beauty  of  the  "  contradanza"  may  be  appreciated,  it  must 
be  seen ;  the  figures  are  so  various,  and  some  of  them  so  intri- 
cate or  labyrinth-like,  that  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe  them ; 
they  exhibit  what  might  be  termed  the  very  poetry  of  the 
Terpsichorean  art.  The  contradance  was  followed  by  qua- 
drilles and  waltzing. 

•  Porter's  Journal. — Basil  Hall. 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  103 

"Dulccs"  or  sweetmeats  of  various  kinds  are  served  during 
the  evening,  in  a  manner  that  is  peculiar  (so  far  as  I  know)  to 
the  south-west  coast  of  this  continent.  A  large  shallow  dish 
of  "  dulces,"  placed  on  a  silver  salver  with  a  numher  of  small 
forks  of  the  same  metal,  is  offered  round  to  the  company,  each 
lady  conveying  a  morsel  of  the  sweet  to  her  mouth  from  the 
dish,  by  aid  of  a  fork.  The  "dulce"  is  sometimes  very  little 
more  consistent  than  thick  syrup  ;  then,  it  is  very  adroitly 
twisted  round  the  fork,  and  dexterously  deposited  in  the 
mouth.  Immediately  after  the  salver  of  "dulces,"  follows 
one  with  goblets  of  water,  which  the  Chilians  invariably  drink 
after  eating  sweets.  On  these  occasions,  a  beau  hands  the  glass 
to  a  belle  in  a  gallant  manner,  holding  his  neat  cambric  hand- 
kerchief beneath  it,  that  a  drop  may  not  fall  upon  the  lady's 
dress. 

A  few  dances  and  a  few  songs,  more  "dulces,"  (and  ices 
occasionally)  bring  the  evening  near  its  close.  Then,  if  the 
party  has  been  a  merry  one,  the  "Cuando,"  a  dance  peculiar 
to  Chile,  is  performed.  It  is  always  accompanied  by  a  song. 
It  commences  like  the  minuet,  all  the  gestures  being  very 
graceful,  and  in  time  with  the  verses,  which  run  thus ; 

"  Anda  ingrdta  que  algun  dia 
Con  las  mudanzas  del  tiempo, 
Lloraras  como  yo  lloro — 
Sentiras  como  yo  siento — 

Cuando !  cuando ! 

Cuando,  mi  vida,  cuando  I" 

With  these  lines  ends  the  minuet ;  the  allegro  follows,  and  the 
step  changes  to  a  shuffle  or  quick  beating  of  the  feet,  called 
"  zapateando"  or  shoeing  it,  to  the  following  lines,  while  one 
or  two  persons  beat  time  with  their  palms  upon  the  top  of  the 
piano ; — 

"  Cuando  sera  esa  dia 
De  aquella  feliz  manana 
Que  nos  lleven  a  los  dos 
£1  chocolate  a  la  cama. 

Cuando !  cuando ! 

Cuando,  mi  vida,  cuando !" 


104  TIIREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

With  these  lines,  the  figure  changes  from  the  minuet ;  the  dan- 
cers advance  towards  and  retreat  from  each  other,  move  round 
dos  a  dos,  "  zapateando"  in  time,  waving  their  kerchiefs  in  the 
right  hand,  left  arm  akimbo,  whole  figure  leaning  forward, 
eyes  and  face  cast  down,  till  at  last  the  gentleman,  with  a  gal- 
lant coupe  of  the  foot,  seizes  the  lady's  hand,  dodges  under 
her  arm,  and  both  gain  their  seats,  amidst  the  plaudits  of  the 
company.  "  Otra,  otra," — Another,  another,  exclaim  a  dozen 
voices,  and  the  floor  is  occupied  by  another  couple,  and  the 
dance  is  again  repeated.  The  andante  verse  of  the  song  con- 
tains an  accusation  of  ingratitude,  and  a  prognostication  that, 
in  time,  the  lady  will  feel  and  weep  as  much  as  the  gentleman 
(who  sings)  has  felt  and  wept ;  the  allegro  supposes  a  recon- 
ciliation, and  is  an  exclamatory  inquiry,  "when  shall  be  the 
nuptial  day  !" 

The  following  verses  are  sung  as  andante,  with  the  same 
allegro  given  above. 

"  Las  durisimas  cadenas 
Que  mi  triste  cuerpo  arrastra ; 
Puesto  que  por  te  las  llevo, 
No  pueden  serine  pesadas." 

JLllegro. 

"  A  me  que  huya  los  rigores, 
Conque  procuras  hen'ime! 
Yo  no  puedo  existirme, 
Si  prosigues  en  tus  amores  !" 
Jlllegro. 

"  Cuando,  cuando,  tengo  pena, 
Me  voy  a  l:i  orilla  de  la  mar, 

Y  le  pregunto  a  las  olas 
Mi  amante  me  dejard  \" 

Megro. 

a  Este  hermoso  ramill£te, 
Rccibe  antes  que  te  partas, 
l ".i i  serial  de  mi  memoria, 

Y  en  prenda  de  mi  constancia  !" 

Allegro. 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  105 

The  following  stanzas  are  sometimes  substituted  both  for 
allegro  and  andante  : 

"Cuando,  cuando, 
Cuando  yo  me  muere 
No  me  lloren  los  parientes 
Lloren  me  las  Alembiques 
Donde  sacan  aguardientes." 

Allegro. 
"  A  la  plata  me  remito, 
Lo  demas  es  boberia, 
Andar  con  la  boca  seca 
E  la  barriga  vacia  !" 

There  is  another  dance,  called  "la  perdiz,"  which  some- 
times follows  the  "cuando,"  and  occasionally  takes  its  place. 
It  is  performed  with  the  accompaniment  of  beating  time  with 
the  palms,  and  singing  the  following  verses  to  rather  a  lively 
air; 

"  Hay  !  de  la  perdiz,  madre, 
Hay  !  de  la  perdiz, 
Que  se  la  lleva,  el  gato, 
Y  el  gato — mis,  mis — 
Ven  aca,  ven  aca,  mis,  mis." 

The  step  is  similar  to  that  exhibited  in  the  "  cuando."  When 
the  above  lines  are  concluded,  the  dancers  stand  opposite  to 
each  other,  and  the  lady  repeats  a  stanza  from  memory,  such 
as  follows : 

"  Tengo  una  escalerita, 
Llena  de  flores, 
Para  subir  al  cielo, 
De  mis  amores."* 

The  chorus  is  then  repeated  with  the  dance  and  waving  of  the 
handkerchief.    When  it  ceases,  the  gentleman  is  bound  to  re- 

*  Thus  rendered,  literatim — 

"  I  have  a  little  ladder 
Full  of  flowers, 
To  mount  to  the  heaven 
Of  my  loves!" 
14 


106  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

ply  to  the  lady  in  an  appropriate  stanza,  from  some  of  the  poets> 
or  make  one  impromptu  for  the  occasion.  This  alternate  danc- 
ing and  recitation,  are  continued  till  the  lady  has  exhausted 
her  memory,  or  till  she  has  repeated  six  or  eight  stanzas. 
When  the  dancers  possess  humor  or  wit,  as  they  frequently 
do,  "la  pcrdiz"  becomes  the  source  of  great  merriment  and 
enjoyment. 

About  eleven  o'clock,  the  old  ladies  begin  to  embrace  their 
friends,  the  young  ones  imitate  them,  and  the  "  tertulia"  is 
broken  up.  Nothing,  in  the  way  of  evening  party,  can  exceed 
the  social  cordiality,  the  freedom  from  restraint,  and  the  gene- 
ral enjoyment,  afforded  at  the  "  tertulias",  and  "  reuniones"  of 
Chile. 

The  English-speaking  foreigners,  in  Valparaiso,  who  pre- 
tend to  be  of  substance,  and  somewhat  aristocratical  withal, 
have  formed  little  coteries  amongst  themselves,  and  never  ad- 
mit the  Chilians  into  their  society,  except  on  some  grand  oc- 
casion, or  unless  the  ladies  are  married  to  some  Englishman 
or  North  American.  All  the  English  and  American  ladies 
here,  are  married ;  therefore,  the  young  men  seek  amusement 
in  the  society  of  the  natives,  at  least  till  they  acquire  the  lan- 
guage. Few  of  them  are  able  to  speak  it  on  their  arrival,  and 
even  after  a  long  residence  in  the  country,  they  rarely  learn 
to  speak  well.  The  Germans  and  French  possess  an  innate 
power,  and  naturally,  more  industry  for  acquiring  languages, 
and  perhaps  greater  facilities  than  others;  we  generally  find 
them  speaking  with  grammatical  propriety,  and  often  with  ele- 
gance, though  not  with  the  purity  of  accent  often  attained  by 
the  Americans  and  English. 

A  difference  of  education  and  religion,  a  difference  in  the  es- 
timate of  pleasures  and  amusements,  together  with  the  inabili- 
ty to  speak  fluently  the  languages  of  each  other,  arc  sufficient 
reasons  for  the  want  of  congeniality,  observable  between  the 
foreign  and  Chilian  ladies:  and  I  have  invariably  remarked, 
that  when  they  have  met  at  petitcs  soirees,  the  society  has  been 
under  restraint,  and  hilarity  repressed.  This  is  particularly 
true  of  water  parties,  for  which  the  Chik'nas  have  a  great  lik- 
ing, and  which  are  most  cheerful   when  entirely  Chilian,  or 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  107 

North  American  and  English.  The  foreign  society,  compared 
with  the  Chilian,  is  more  intellectual — more  conversational — 
more  devoted  to  eating — while  the  Chilian  is  more  musical — 
(not  of  the  highest  order,  however)  more  chit-chatable — more 
flirtationable — and  then  they  dance  and  glance  ; — there  is  a 
sort  of  rivalsh ip,  too,  between  the  qualities  of  the  head  and 
heels,  for  the  face  grows  grave  whenever  the  feet  "move  to 
measure."  The  Spanish  society  is  more  fitted  to  please  and 
amuse  naval  officers  during  their  short  visits;  but,  for  a  long 
sojourn,  the  English  and  North  American,  met  with  in  Valpa- 
raiso, is  preferable.  Considering  the  discordant  materials  of 
which  it  is  composed,  the  foreign  society  may  be  pronounced 
good.  The  English  abroad,  so  far  as  I  have  seen,  generally  as- 
sume a  higher  stand  than  they  have  held  or  can  hold  at  home ; 
and  adopting  the  maxim  of  Hamlet — "  assume  a  virtue,  if  you 
have  it  not,"  set  up  for  distinction,  and  from  their  efforts  to 
gain  it,  very  often  deserve  it.  North  Americans  are  occasion- 
ally obnoxious  to  similar  remarks.  There  is  a  jealousy  between 
the  two  nations  that  sometimes  peeps  forth; — in  fact  there  is 
a  disagreeable  sort  of  surveillance,  mutually  exercised  by  the 
■*  people  of  both  sides  of  the  water. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Ride  to  Santiago — Mode  of  travelling — Peonada — The  honey  palm — Carretas 
— Mode  of  descending  hills — Penuelas — Throwing  the  lazo — A  bivouac — 
Casablanca — Posada — Mode  of  making  butter — Bread — Cuesta  de  Zapata — 
Bustamente — Breakfast — Cuesta  del  Prado — A  view — Entrance  to  Santiago 
— Custom  house  officers — Table  of  Barometric  observations. 

FiNDixa  myself,  towards  the  end  of  May  1S32,  in  Valpa- 
raiso, with  a  few  weeks  leisure,  and  a  friend  about  returning 
to  his  residence  near  Santiago,  I  determined  to  embrace  the 
opportunity  of  paying  a  visit  to  the  Capital  of  Chile.  This  is 
not  the  most  favorable  season  for  travelling,  but  inasmuch  as 


108  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  rains  had  heen  backward,  we  anticipated  that  the  roads 
would  be  good. 

The  usual  mode  of  travelling  is  in  a  gig.  The  vehicle  used 
here,  differs  in  nothing  from  that  of  the  United  States,  except 
that  the  wheels  are  clumsy,  and  of  a  stronger  construction.  It 
frequently  happens  that  the  gig,  from  rough  treatment,  is  sadly 
shattered,  and  in  consequence,  almost  covered  with  thongs  of 
hide,  running  in  different  directions,  to  keep  it  from  tumbling 
to  pieces.  The  one  selected  for  our  journey,  had  a  neat  green 
body,  hung  low,  with  a  gilt  wreath  running  round  the  panels; 
the  top  was  broad,  and  hung  forward  so  much,  that  it  afforded 
us  ample  protection  both  from  sun  and  rain. 

The  gear  of  the  team  is  rather  peculiar.   The  horse,  placed 
in  the  shafts,  is  harnessed  in  the  ordinary  manner,  with  the 
exception  of  having  a  short  leading  rein,  held  by  a  postillion, 
who  rides  a  horse  attached  on  the  left  side  by  a  swingle-tree. 
His  saddle,  like  all  those  of  the  country,  rises  high  before  and 
behind,  affording  a  secure  seat,  and  is  composed  of  several 
pieces  ;  first,  a  rough  wooden  tree  is  put  on  over  two  or  three 
hack-cloths,  and  then  as  many  "pillons,"  or  sheep  skins  dress- 
ed with  the  wool  on,  and  dyed  of  various  colors,  are  placed 
over  it.   The  whole  is  secured  by  a  girth,  made  of  a  dozen  thin 
strips  of  hide  worked  into  large  rings  at  each  end,  and  attached 
to  the  saddle  by  similar  thongs.     The  stirrups  are  pyramidal 
shaped  blocks  of  wood,  carved  in  some  curious  pattern,  and 
sometimes  ornamented  with  plates  of  silver,  having  holes  on 
one  side  to  accommodate  the  feet.     The  reins  are  of  plaited 
hide,  terminating  in  a  thong  six  or  eight  feet  in  length,  which 
answers  all  the  purposes  of  a  whip.    The  bit  is  very  powerful, 
and  capable  of  controlling  the  most  vicious  horse.   At  the  sad- 
dle-bow is  carried  a  long  knife,  used  both  for  feeding  and  de- 
fence ;  the  u  lazo,"  or  noose  of  hide,  without  which  the  horse- 
man would  be  frequently  at  a  loss,  is  carried  behind.  The  pos- 
tillions wear  straw  hats,  over  Madras  or  silk  handkerchiefs 
knotted  about  the  head,  the  ends  hanging  down  behind.      A 
short  jacket,   coarse  pantaloons,  botas,   great  spurs,  and  the 
poncho,  sometimes  knotted  carelessly  round  the  waist,  or  hang- 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  109 

ing  unembarrassed  over  one  shoulder,  complete  the  travelling 
dress. 

One  advantage  of  this  mode  of  travelling,  is  that  the  travel- 
ler is  free  to  choose  his  hour  for  setting  out,  as  well  as  that  for 
halting  ;  and  as  only  two  can  ride  together,  he  always  has  the 
privilege  of  selecting  his  travelling  companion.  In  1S26,  the 
gig,  horses,  &c.  were  hired  to  go  from  Valparaiso  to  Santiago 
for  seventeen  dollars  ;  owing  to  the  increase  of  commerce,  and 
the  consequent  necessity  of  more  frequent  communication  be- 
tween the  port  and  the  capital,  the  price  is  reduced  to  ten. 

About  one  o'clock  P.  M.,  our  "  capatuz"  (sort  of  prefect  or 
overseer)  brought  the  gig  to  the  door  ;  and,  having  seen  our 
trunks  carefully  lashed  with  thongs  of  hide  to  the  sides  of  a 
pair  of  patient  baggage  mules,  we  mounted.  While  chatting 
with  our  friends,  and  giving  occasional  directions  about  the 
mules,  our  vehicle  was  well  stowed  with  what  are  called  "en- 
comiendas,"  or  small  packages,  directed  to  various  persons  in 
Santiago.  We  were  seated  ;  the  postillion  looked  back,  nodded 
his  head,  and  said,  interrogatively,  "^yavamos,  Senores  ?" 
— do  we  start  now,  gentlemen?  We  answered,  "vamos."  He 
bestowed  his  whip  right  and  left,  and  we  trotted  off  as  fast  as 
the  many  obstructions,  from  mules  and  carretas,  crowded  in 
the  narrow  street,  would  allow.  On  reaching  the  lower  end  of 
the  Almendral,  we  met  the  second  "peon,"*  or  postillion, 
with  a  troop  of  six  or  eight  horses,  destined  as  a  relay  upon 
the  road.  We  halted  ;  the  capital  came  up  with  the  mules,  and 
drove  them,  as  well  as  the  extra  horses,  ahead.  In  the  mean 
time,  the  second  postillion  hitched  on  to  the  vehicle,  by  a 
thong  passing  from  the  shaft  to  his  saddle  girth  ;  then  both  ap- 
plying whip  and  spur,  we  moved  up  the  Altos  de  Valparaiso 
at  a  round  trot,  with  three  horses  abreast. 

Domingo,  the  capataz,  had  several  new  straw  hats,  which  he 
was  carrying  to  some  of  his  friends  ;  they  were  placed  one 
within  the  other,  and  then  upon  his  own,  forming  a  pyramid 
on  his  head.  He  had  changed  the  pace  of  his  stout,  long  bodied 
'horse,  into  a  walk,  when  Domingo  threw  the  rein  behind  him, 

•  The  word  "  peon"  designates  a  laboring  man. 


110  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  resting  a  hand  on  cncli  thigh,  allowed  his  person  to  move 
from  side  to  side,  with  the  alternate  steps  of  the  animal,  as  he 
preceded  us  up  the  alto.  As  the  ascent  grew  more  steep,  our 
speed  slackened,  and  the  "peon,"  named  Pepe,  drew  forth  an 
"hojita,"  and  having  property  adjusted  it,  held  it  crosswise 
betwixt  his  lips,  while  he  struck  fire  by  the  aid  of  a  small  horn 
of  tinder,  and  in  a  little  while,  both  Pepe,  and  Manuel  the 
second  peon,  were  quietly  smoking. 

Pepe  was  a  stout,  well  formed  youth,  about  five  feet  six 
inches  high,  and  perhaps  twenty  years  old.  He  possessed  an 
amiable  though  somewhat  serious  face,  with  good  teeth,  and  a 
cheek  like  a  dirty  peach.  He  had  a  new  gingham  jacket,  which 
he  was  desirous  of  protecting  from  the  dust,  and  therefore  tied 
two  corners  of  a  handkerchief  under  his  chin,  allowing  it  to 
hang  down  behind  like  a  cloak.  Manuel  was  perhaps  younger, 
equally  vigorous,  but  possessed  of  a  most  roguish  countenance, 
though  not  less  healthful  than  that  of  his  companion  ;  in  fact, 
he  was  a  frolicksome  looking  youth,  with  well  turned  limbs. 
These  two  "  peones"  seemed  to  be  the  best  friends  in  the 
world,  and  had  I  not  inquired  as  to  the  fact,  I  should  have 
thought  they  were  brothers  ;  for  during  the  whole  journey, 
they  were  always  ready  to  strike  fire  for  each  other,  and  per- 
form a  thousand  other  little  friendly  offices.  The  "  capatdz" 
was  a  man  of  about  thirty,  stout,  well  made,  and  six  feet  high. 
The  "peones"  obeyed  his  orders  cheerfully,  but  never  treated 
him  with  the  deference  that  I  have  seen  elsewhere  observed 
by  persons  similarly  related.  These  men  were  a  fair  specimen 
of  what  is  termed  the  "peonaxla,"  or  laboring  population  of 
Chile.  They  were  active,  cheerful,  and  respectful,  without 
being  servile,  and  well  calculated  to  be  members  of  a  free  and 
independent  republic.  Those  men  who  live  as  they  do,  are  re- 
markable for  the  development  of  their  lower  limbs  ;  it  is  not 

unusual,  in  some  parts  of  the  country,  to  say,   "Don 

ticne  buena  picrna" — such  an  one  has  a  good  leg  ;  meaning  he 
is  a  good  horseman. 

The  summit  of  the.  Altos  de  Valparaiso  is  12C0  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.*  Like  all  the  high  land  round  Valparaiso, 

•  Micrs.     Travels  in  Chile. 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  Ill 

it  is  chiefly  composed  of  blocks  of  decomposing  feldspar,  cover- 
ed with  a  thin  soil,  scarcely  sufficient  to  nourish  the  cactus 
plants,  that  stand  on  its  most  prominent  points.  The  road  has 
been  cut  into  the  solid  rock  in  some  places,  with  very  considera- 
ble labor  ;  it  mounts,  in  a  zig-zag  line,  up  one  side  of  a  deep 
quebrada,  at  the  bottom  of  which  runs  a  pebbled  brook. 
Though  a  considerable  toll  is  levied  for  keeping  it  in  repair, 
it  is  sadly  out  of  order.  Every  laden  mule  entering  into  or 
going  out  of  Valparaiso,  pays  a  "medio"*  (6^  cents).  This 
tax  is  sold  yearly  by  the  government,  at  auction  ;  the  purchaser 
collects  the  toll,  and  the  government  engages  to  keep  the  road 
in  good  travelling  condition.  Yet  in  winter  it  is  rarely  travel- 
led in  safety;  for  the  rains  of  a  single  night  swell  the  streams, 
and,  carrying  off  the  fragile  bridges,  render  the  road  impassa- 
ble till  the  waters  subside.  In  the  winter  of  1S27,  intercourse 
between  Santiago  and  the  Port  was  suspended,  from  this  cause, 
for  several  days. 

In  about  an  half  hour  we  reached  the  top  of  the  hill.  Here, 
for  a  moment  only,  we  had  a  magnificent  view.  The  town  lay 
almost  beneath  us,  the  bay  spread  its  beautiful  sheet  of  water 
before  the  eye,  and  the  ocean  expanded  away  till  it  met  the 
sky  and  disappeared.  Only  one  small  sail,  like  a  bright  speck 
on  the  blue  expanse,  was  seen  approaching  the  harbor. 

*  The  coins  of  Chile  are  all  of  gold  or  silver.  Banks  and  bank  notes  are  un- 
known. 


"Onza, 

equal  to 

$17  25 

Gold.  «< 

|  Media  Onz 
|  Doblon, 

a,     do. 
do. 

8  62* 
4  31J 

_  Escudo, 

do. 

2  15* 

r  Peso, 

equal  to 

$1  00 

Dos  reales 

do. 

25 

Silver.  < 

Real, 

do. 

12* 

Medio, 

do. 

6} 

t  Cuartillo, 

do. 

3 

The  dollar  is  rare.    The  small  pieces  are  irregularly  clipped,  and  familiarly 
called  "  cut  money." 


112  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

From  rouo-h,  the  road  now  became  smooth ;  the  south  wind 
swept  fresh  and  cool  across  it.  Pepe  untied  the  poncho  from 
his  middle,  and  thrusting  his  head  through  its  centre,  concealed 
the  upper  part  of  his  figure  in  its  drapery.  Manuel  cast  off  the 
trace  from  his  saddle  girth,  and  went  away  with  the  capataz. 
Pepe  put  spurs,  lashed  his  heavy  whip  right  and  left,  and  made 
a  cheering  noise  to  the  animals.  They  pricked  up  their  ears; 
the  one  in  the  shafts  set  off  in  a  rapid  trot,  while  that  on  which 
the  postillion  rode  advanced  in  a  beautiful  canter.  Pepe  sat 
like  a  part  of  the  animal  upon  which  he  was,  his  poncho  flap- 
ping, and  the  ends  of  the  handkerchief  round  his  head  fluttering 
on  the  breeze.  Quick  motion  is  the  most  pleasant  stimulant  in 
the  world,  whether  on  shore  or  afloat.  Pepe  commenced  a 
song  in  the  nasal  yet  melancholy  tone  of  the  country,  accom- 
panied by  the  jingle  of  his  huge  spurs  and  the  rattling  of  the 
wheels  over  the  hard  dry  ground.  My  companion,  as  well  as 
myself,  during  the  slow  ascent  of  the  hill,  had  sunk  back,  each 
into  his  corner;  he  enjoyed  a  sort  of  revery,  enveloped  in  the 
smoke  of  a  cigar  which  stole  quietly  upwards  in  a  little  blue 
stream  from  the  corner  of  his  mouth,  while  I  watched  the 
horses'  heads  as  they  alternately  nodded  up  and  down ;  for  I 
found  nothing  to  look  at  but  the  ascent  before  us.  We  now 
both  roused  up,  and  looked  back  at  the  bay  and  the  ocean,  and 
then  forward.  The  country,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was 
uncultivated,  barren,  and  irregular.  We  saw  now  and  then  a 
solitary  palm  tree  waving  its  beautiful  green  head  on  the 
breeze.  Our  horses,  mules,  and  capatdz  had  disappeared  in 
some  of  the  gullies  or  by-roads. 

This  palm  is  very  valuable,  supplying  a  substitute  for  honey 
in  a  country  where  there  are  no  bees.  It  grows  from  forty  to 
fifty  feet  high  ;  the  limbs  all  spring  upwards  from  the  top,  and 
falling  over,  form  a  graceful  round  head.  The  fruit  is  in  every 
respect  like  the  cocoa-nut,  except  that  it  is  not  larger  than  a 
walnut.  At  particular  seasons  the  trunk  is  bored,  and  the 
sap,  by  evaporation,  forms  a  honey,  which,  distilled,  yields  an 
intoxicating  liquor,  called  "guarape,"  much  prized  by  the 
lower  classes.  The  annual  produce  of  a  single  tree  is  estimated 
to  be  worth  ten  dollars. 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  113 

When  descending;  the  hill  to  Penuelas,  we  overtook  three 
large  "carretas,"  on  their  way  to  the  capital.  The  carreta  or  cart 
is  a  most  clumsy,  unwieldy  kind  of  vehicle.  The  wheels  are 
about  ten  feet  high,  bound  with  a  huge  wooden  tire,  the  fellies 
of  which  are  applied  in  such  a  way  that  the  joints  fall  between 
those  of  the  wheel-fellies;  the  whole  being  secured  with 
wooden  pins,  gives  strength  to  the  structure.  The  hubs  are 
simply  blocks,  or  rather  sections  of  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  with  a 
hole  burnt  through  the  centre  for  the  axle,  which  is  never 
greased,  because,  it  is  said,  the  squeaking  noise  caused  by  the 
friction  of  the  dry  wood,  served  to  waken  the  drowsy  custom 
house  officers,  stationed  on  the  road  during  the  Spanish  re- 
gime; and  now  the  oxen  have  become  so  accustomed  to  the 
sound,  that  they  are  unwilling  to  move  without  it.  The  body 
of  the  cart  is  fourteen  or  fifteen  feet  long,  by  six  or  seven 
broad,  covered  over  with  an  arching  canopy,  made  of  canes  or 
wattled  straw,  having  small  square  holes  cut  in  the  sides  as 
look-out  places,  while  the  front  and  rear  are  left  open.  It  is 
drawn  by  from  four  to  six  oxen,  yoked  by  the  horns,  the  first 
pair  of  which  support  the  tongue  of  the  carreta.  The  driver, 
or  capataz,  wears  a  cone  shaped  hat,  poncho,  and  a  pair  of 
bragas,  sustained  above  the  loins  by  a  sash;  they  fall  a  little 
below  the  knee,  and,  being  cut  straight,  the  inner  seam  ap- 
plies itself  close  to  the  leg,  while  the  outer  one  stands  afar  off. 
The  legs  are  bare ;  the  feet  are  protected  by  sandals  of  untanned 
leather,  or  shoes  made  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  the  moc- 
casin of  the  North  American  Indian.  He  is  armed  with  a  pole, 
ten  or  twelve  feet  long,  pointed  with  a  nail  or  piece  of  sharp 
iron,  with  which  he  guides  his  cattle;  each  one  of  the  team 
has  a  name,  and  if  not  obedient,  when  called,  is  made  to  feel 
the  point  of  the  goad. 

The  carretas  we  came  up  with,  were  laden  with  bales  and 
packages;  carrying  also  on  top,  bales  of  straw,  (not  chopped, 
but  broken  by  the  fashion  of  treacling  out  the  grain  by  mares, 
instead  of  thrashing  it),  for  the  provender  of  the  journey,  which 
extends  from  six  to  ten  days,  according  to  the  state  of  the  roads. 
The  teamsters  were  walking  near  the  carretas,  guiding  them 
down  hill ;  to  prevent  a  too  rapid  descent,  a  yoke  of  oxen  was 
15 


114  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

attached,  by  a  hide  rope,  to  the  tail  of  each  cart.  The  animals* 
understood  their  duties  well ;  for  they  placed  their  feet  in  ad- 
vance, and  unwillingly  yielded  the  ground,  as  they  were  drag- 
ged forward  by  the  horns,  thus  answering  all  the  purposes  to 
the  carruta,  which  a  kedge  anchor  does  to  a  ship  moving  in  a 
tideway — that  is,  retard  the  progress. 

While  we  were  looking  at  the  carretas,  Domingo  and  Manuel 
came  up  with  the  mules  and  horses.  Manuel  passed  his  "  lazo" 
round  the  centre  of  the  axle  of  the  gig,  and  fastening  it  to  his 
saddle  girth,  reined  in  his  horse  behind  us,  and  we  followed 
down  the  hill,  kedging  in  the  same  style  as  the  carretas.  When 
near  the  "  ranchos,"  or  huts,  which  form  the  "  pueblo,"  or 
town,  two  or  three  bare  headed,  half  naked  children,  ran  along 
beside  us,  holding  out  flowers,  and  crying,  "toma,  Sefiores; 
un  real" — "  take  (them),  gentlemen ;  a  real."  Though  it  was 
rather  cool,  the  present  of  flowers  was  romantic  enough ;  but 
the  call  for  the  real,  reminded  me  of  one  of  the  letters  of  Miss 
Biddy  Fudge : 

"  This  is  all  that's  occurr'd  sentimental  as  yet ; 

Except,  indeed,  some  little  flower  nymphs  we've  met, 
Who  disturb  one's  romance  with  pecuniary  views, 
Flinging  flowers  in  your  path,  and  then  bawling  for  sous .'" 

The  post  of  Penuelas  is  three  leagues  from  Valparaiso,  and 
nine  hundred  and  forty-one  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
Here  there  is  an  inn,  at  which  many,  who  ride  thus  far  for 
pleasure,  stop.  Here  we  found  a  table  spread  with  cold  corned 
beef,  ham,  tongue,  &c,  and  a  half  dozen  English  midshipmen, 
from  one  of  the  men-of-war  in  the  harbor,  amusing  themselves 
by  endeavoring  to  throw  the  "lazo."  Their  frequent  failures 
served  to  set  off  the  dexterity  with  which  our  "  peones"  caught 
the  horses,  which  were  to  relieve  those  ridden  thus  far.  The 
"  lazo"  is  a  hide  rope,  ten  or  twelve  yards  long,  with  a  running 
noose  at  one  end,  which  is  opened,  when  used,  for  about  a  yard ; 
the  coil  is  held  in  the  left  hand,  while  the  right  keeps  the 
noose  in  a  circular  motion  over  the  head ;  when  fairly  spread, 
it  is  thrown  with  unerring  aim,  and  lodges  over  the  neck  of  the 
animal  to  be  taken.    The  moment  the  "lazo"  encircles  his 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  115 

neck,  the  horse,  that  hcfore  was  so  shy  as  to  render  approach- 
ing him  impossible,  becomes  completely  docile. 

Having  changed  horses,  we  again  took  our  seats,  and  con- 
tinued on,  rising  and  descending  hills,  for  three  leagues,  over 
a  very  irregular,  barren  country.  This  distance  brought  us  to 
the  Tablas  or  plains.  The  sun  had  sunk,  and  left  the  sky  bril- 
liant in  stars  and  azure.  The  atmosphere  in  Chile,  during  the 
winter,  is  clearer  than  in  any  part  of  the  world,  and  the  splen- 
dor of  the  moonlight  nights,  cannot  be  exceeded  any  where. 

At  a  short  distance  before  us,  we  saw  a  light,  and  on  draw- 
ing near,  perceived  that  it  proceeded  from  a  fire  in  the  midst  of 
three  or  four  carretas,  which  had  halted  for  the  night.  We 
again  alighted  to  change  horses.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  see 
over  the  plain,  we  could  discern  no  house.  The  fire  was  sur- 
rounded by  the  carreteros,  or  teamsters;  some  were  seated  on 
the  ground,  with  their  feet  drawn  up,  and  their  hands  locked 
in  front  of  their  knees;  some  were  standing  with  arms  folded; 
others  reclined  upon  an  elbow,  gazing  at  the  burning  faggots, 
and  others  again  were  moving  about,  silently  arranging  the 
provender  for  the  cattle.  The  bales  of  straw  had  been  brought 
from  the  carretas,  and  the  oxen  stood  peacefully  chewing  the 
cud,  having  satisfied  their  appetite  on  this  meagre  fare.  Small 
earthen  pans,  or  "ollas,"  placed  on  tripods  of  stones,  were 
stewing  and  sending  forth  a  savory  smell  of  garlic,  and  two  or 
three  pieces  of  "charqui,"  or  jerked  beef,  were  broiling  on 
the  coals.  As  we  drew  near  to  enjoy  the  benefit  of  the  fire — 
for  the  air  had  grown  chill  as  November,  several  dogs  made  a 
furious  attack  upon  us,  but  were  at  once  recalled  by  an  authori- 
tative voice;  "Ay!  perro,  ush — perro — grandisima  *  *  *  *  *!" 
The  last  superlative  epithet  (which  would  soil  our  page)  being 
followed  by  a  stone,  the  curs  slunk  away,  and  laid  down  under 
the  carts.  So  soon  as  the  uproar  subsided,  they  said,  "  pasan 
ustedes  adeldnte,  Senores ;  hace  frio" — pass  forward,  gentlemen, 
it  is  cold."  We  found  comfortable  seats  on  the  tongue  of  one  of 
the  carretas,  at  once  lighted  our  cigars,  and  took  part  in  the  con- 
versation. These  "  peones"  were  lamenting  the  want  of  rain, 
and  drew  a  most  gloomy  picture  of  the  state  of  the  country. 
"The  flocks  and  herds,"  said  they,  "are  perishing  in  every 


116  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE  PACIFIC. 

direction,  for  want  of  fodder — our  mules  and  oxen  are  growing 
leaner  and  leaner  every  da}' — straw  is  dear,  and  we  must  lay 
up  for  the  season,  to  give  our  cattle  an  opportunity  to  fatten  !" 

The  glare  from  the  fire  presented  the  group  in  strong  relief; 
their  brown  ponchos  and  bragas,  sun-burnt  faces,  and  bare  legs, 
gave  them  a  wild  appearance,  that  might  have  induced  one  to 
mistake  the  scene  for  a  bivouac  of  banditti. 

In  a  few  minutes,  our  capataz  cried,  "  ya  estamos,  Senores" 
— we  are  ready,  Sirs.  We  again  mounted,  and,  having  first 
rolled  our  cloaks  around  us,  each  settled  into  his  own  corner. 
As  it  was  growing  late,  Manuel  hitched  his  beast  on  the  right; 
and  while  the  horse  in  the  shafts  trotted  at  a  rapid  rate,  those 
under  the  saddle  went  at  a  hand  gallop.  The  road  was  now 
hard,  smooth,  and  perfectly  level.  By  the  light  of  the  stars, 
we  could  perceive  that  the  capat&z  kept  the  relief  horses  and 
mules  trotting  on  ahead.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  way, 
Pepe  and  Manuel  relieved  each  other  in  low,  plaintive  ditties, 
which  were  unintelligible  to  us  on  account  of  the  rattling  of 
the  wheels,  the  pattering  of  hoofs,  and  the  jingle  of  spurs. 
Whenever  we  passed  a  bivouac,  such  as  above  described,  Ma- 
nuel always  hailed  with  the  greatest  good  humor,  and  was  al- 
ways answered  in  some  gay  saying. 

In  this  manner  we  rode  four  leagues,  which  brought  us  to 
the  "pueblo"  of  Casablanca,  through  the  street  of  which  we 
drove  at  a  round  rate,  amidst  the  uproar  of  barking  dogs.  As 
we  passed  the  houses,  we  saw,  through  the  wide-open  doors, 
by  the  dim  light  of  a  tallow  candle  burning  in  each,  the  figures 
of  men  and  women  rolled  in  ponchos  and  shawls,  sauntering 
about  the  rooms.  Not  an  individual  was  induced  by  curiosity 
to  come  to  the  street  to  gape  at  our  noisy  party,  as,  I  think, 
would  have  been  the  case  in  the  small  villages  of  some  of  the 
"  Immortal  States." 

A  little  after  eight  o'clock  we  alighted  in  the  court  yard  of 
a  "  posaxla,"  or  tavern,  kept  by  an  Italian  named  Feroni,  which 
has  the  reputation  of  being  the  best  in  the  place.  Feroni  was 
a  polite,  tall,  well  made  man,  with  an  aquiline  nose,  black 
whiskers,  and  large  black  eyes.  His  language  was  a  sort  of 
jumble  of  Italian   and   Spanish,  with  an  occasional   dash  of 


NOTICES  OP  CniLE.  117 

French.  He  ushered  us  into  a  travellers'  room  on  one  side  of 
an  inner  "patio"  or  court,  where  we  found  three  gentlemen 
voyageurs.  One  a  huge  Frenchman,  as  corpulent  as  Daniel 
Lambert  was  wont  to  be  represented  on  our  copy-books,  in 
by-gone  days;  another  was  a  tall,  almost  bone-bare  Spaniard, 
with  an  immense  nose  and  a  squeaking  voice,  and  the  third,  a 
young  Chileno  of  pleasing  manners.  An  oblong  table  stood 
in  the  centre  of  the  room,  leaving  space  on  each  side  for  chairs, 
and  servants  to  pass,  covered  with  a  cloth,  stained  with  red 
wine,  and  scattered  with  crumbs,  informing  us  that  the  party 
had  just  supped.  At  one  end  of  the  apartment  stood  a  long 
settee,  which  filled  the  space  between  the  side  walls  ;  at  the 
other  was  the  entrance,  and  a  small  table  with  glasses  and 
bottles. 

The  Frenchman  sat  at  one  end  of  the  settee,  picking  his 
teeth  with  a  fork,  while  the  old  Spaniard  lolled  at.  the  other, 
smoking  an  "hoja"  cigar;  both  were  listening  to  the  little 
Chileno,  who  was  walking  up  and  down,  puffing  at  intervals, 
when  we  entered.  The  party  saluted  us  very  politely,  asked 
us  to  be  seated,  and  then  the  Chileno  continued  his  recital. 
Feroni  inquired,  "  Cavaliere,  que  quieren  ustedes  cenar?" — 
meaning,  Gentlemen,  on  what  will  you  sup?  Having  ascer- 
tained our  wishes  on  that  head,  he  retired,  and  brought  in  a 
large  copper  pan  of  well  burnt  charcoal,  which  was  quite  wel- 
come to  our  benumbed  fingers  and  toes. 

After  the  fire  had  infused  a  little  suppleness  into  my  limbs, 
I  walked  forth  to  survey  the  premises  while  our  supper  was 
preparing.  The  house  is  one  story  high,  built  around  a  "  pa- 
tio" or  court  yard,  into  which  open  several  small  sleeping 
rooms,  the  travellers'  room,  a  passage  to  the  kitchen,  and  an- 
other to  the  stable  yard.  Two  small  rooms  in  front  are  occu- 
pied by  Feroni,  Madam  Feroni,  and  all  the  little  Feronis.  I 
found  the  family  seated  on  mats  around  a  "  brazero"  of  coals 
prattling,  while  the  mother,  squatted  on  the  ground,  was  sew- 
ing by  the  light  of  a  tallow  candle  supported  on  a  very  low  ta- 
ble before  her.  The  children,  though  barefoot,  were  otherwise 
warmly  clothed.  The  furniture  of  the  room  was  complete  in 
a  few  old  stamped  leather  back  chairs,  and  a  bed  which  seemed 


118  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

to  be  the  common  receptacle  for  cast  off  ponchos,  shawls,  caps, 
&.c.  To  the  right  of  this  family  apartment  was  another,  of 
about  the  same  dimensions,  in  which  Feroni  had  a  small  dirty 
table,  with  pen,  ink,  and  paper.  In  one  corner  was  a  bed,  in 
another  a  half  dozen  skins  of  butter,  and  over  head  a  quantity 
of  Bologna  sausages,  of  no  mean  excellence,  were  hanging  from 
the  naked  beams.  This,  it  will  be  seen,  was  the  office  or  sanc- 
tum of  our  Boniface. 

In  Chile,  butter  is  packed  in  sheep  skins  with  the  wool  side 
out,  and  would  be  very  good,  in  spite  of  appearances,  were  it 
not  so  much  salted.  The  operation  of  churning  is  performed 
by  a  donkey  ;  the  cream  is  put  into  large  gourds  or  dry  skins, 
placed  on  his  back,  and  then  the  animal  is  kept  trotting  round 
the  yard  till  the  butter  is  made.  In  this  art  they  seem  not  to 
have  advanced  a  single  step  since  its  discovery ;  for  we  are  told, 
that  a  countryman  somewhere  lost  a  large  jug  of  cream  by  car- 
rying it  for  a  distance  on  a  hard  trotting  horse,  which  acci- 
dent led  to  the  important  invention  of  churns  and  butter.  A 
friend  told  me,  that  he  had  presented,  some  years  ago,  a  Yan- 
kee churn  to  a  family  residing  near  the  capital,  and  taught 
them  to  use  it.  So  long  as  it  was  a  novelty  they  were  pleased, 
but  at  the  end  of  a  few  weeks  they  decided  that  the  donkey 
made  butter  just  as  well,  and  consequently  threw  it  aside  ! 

Casablanca  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  plain,  which  is 
well  irrigated,  and  produces  quantities  of  wheat,  butter,  cheese, 
apples,  peaches,  pears,  &c.  It  is  ten  leagues  from  Valparaiso, 
and  consists  of  two  long  streets  which  meet  at  right  angles;  in 
the  elbow  thus  formed  stand  the  church  and  the  curate's  dwell- 
ing, which  opens  on  a  grass  plot  in  front.  The  houses  are 
mostly  one  story  high,  built  of  "  adobes"  or  sun-dried  bricks, 
and  roofed  with  red  tiles.  The  population  does  not  exceed  one 
thousand  souls. 

Half  an  hour  after  our  arrival,  Feroni  announced  supper, 
which  consisted  of  roasted  lamb,  eggs,  tea,  bread,  and  excel- 
lent butter.  The  bread  in  Chile  is  made  with  a  small  addition 
of  lard  or  "graza,"  and  a  little  anise  to  give  it  flavor.  The 
wheat  and  flour  of  Chile  arc  remarkably  excellent;  when  ma- 
nufactured by  French  bakers,  it  is  equal  in  sweetness  and  nutri- 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  119 

tive  qualities  to  any  bread  I  have  ever  tasted.  It  is  generally 
made  in  the  form  of  small  rolls. 

Soon  after  ending  our  meal  we  retired  to  our  respective 
sleeping  apartments.  Mine  was  furnished  with  a  mattress, 
spread  upon  a  platform  of  reeds  placed  side  by  side,  raised  two 
feet  from  the  ground,  and  covered  by  a  coarse  "petate"  or 
mat.  A  wash-stand  stood  under  a  vile  distorter  of  personal 
beauty — a  Chinese  mirror  about  a  foot  square. — I  found  conso- 
lation, however,  soon  after,  being  buried  up  to  the  chin  in 
Feroni's  clean  bed. 

At  daylight,  according  to  direction,  the  capatdz  knocked  at 
the  door,  and  holding  a  lantern  up  to  the  window,  cried, 
"Senor,  arriba,  arriba!" — up,  up,  Sir!  Feroni  had  prepared 
tea  for  us,  which  was  a  comfort  of  a  cold  morning,  and  in  which 
the  big  Frenchman  joined  us.  Then,  settling  himself  alone  in 
his  gig,  rolled  in  a  large  blue  cloak,  tying  a  comforter  around 
his  neck,  burying  his  chin  in  its  folds,  placing  a  little  fur  cap 
on  his  head,  well  drawn  down  in  front,  leaving  no  part  of  his 
face  uncovered,  (for  his  eyes  were  defended  by  a  pair  of  spec- 
tacles), off  he  drove  before  us.  We  took  our  seats,  almost  as 
well  defended  as  the  Frenchman,  and  followed.  As  we  dashed 
out  of  the  gate,  our  wheels  broke  through  a  sheet  of  ice  nearly 
an  inch  thick.  The  sun  had  not  yet  risen  above  the  moun- 
tains which  encircle  the  plain  ;  the  air  was  calm  and  piercing; 
the  sky  was  clear  blue,  and  a  star  still  lingered  in  sight.  Our 
road  lay  before  us  in  one  long,  straight  line,  of  three  leagues 
and  a  half,  to  the  Cuesta  de  Zap&ta.  The  hedges  on  either  hand 
were  dry,  and  the  trees  every  where  leafless. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Cuesta  are  a  number  of  Algarrobo  and 
Quillai  trees.  Here  Manuel  hitched  his  horse  to  the  gig,  and 
we  ascended  the  zigzag  road  of  the  Cuesta,  three  horses  abreast. 
Its  highest  point  is  1S50  feet*  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  When 
we  reached  it,  we  looked  back  upon  the  road  we  had  just 
passed,  which  appeared  like  a  single  white  line  stretched  across 
the  plain.  Here  we  felt,  for  the  first  time  that  morning,  the 
cheering  influence  of  the  sun's  rays,  which  thawed  our  silence 


Miers. 


120  THBEE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

(till  then  uninterrupted)  into  conversation;  even  the  big  French- 
man looked  out  round  the  side  of  his  gig  top,  and  cried  "  e'est 
un  joli  matin  !"  Manuel  again  passed  his  "  lazo"  around  the 
axle,  and  we  again  kedged  down  after  the  Frenchman.  About 
ten  o'clock  we  stopped  at  an  inn  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Cu6sta,  in  a  vale  called  El  cajon  de  Zap&ta,  where  we  changed 
horses,  and  again  moved  on.  The  country  is  level,  and  culti- 
vated, till  it  reaches  an  immense  hill,  or  rather  mountain,  that 
surrounds  the  plain,  forming  it  into  a  great  basin. 

About  one  o'clock  we  halted  at  Bustamente,  which  is  1773 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  seven  leagues  from  Santi- 
ago. Here  we  stopped  to  breakfast.  The  posada  is  a  one  story 
building,  surrounding  three  sides  of  a  court  or  square,  having 
a  low  corridor,  in  rather  a  decayed  condition,  running  round 
it.  We  found  every  thing  very  comfortable  and  clean — at  least 
for  a  high  road  in  Chile. 

They  gave  us  for  breakfast  the  universal  "casuelo,"  and  a 
roasted  "loma,"  with  tea  and  chocolate.  The  "casuelo"  con- 
sists of  boiled  chicken,  potatoes,  onions,  carrots,  tomatoes  and 
eggs ;  the  whole  being  well  seasoned  with  grease,  aji,  (a  species 
of  capsicum,)  and  a  little  garlic.  The  grease  and  aji  are  brown- 
ed in  an  "olla,"  and  poured  over  the  dish  just  at  the  moment 
it  is  served  up.  In  spite  of  its  incongruous  materials,  to  a  hun- 
gry stomach  this  mixture  is  far  from  being  despicable.  The 
"  loma"  is  the  tender  loin  of  the  bullock,  dissected  out  entire, 
and  roasted  on  the  coals,  and  is  an  exceedingly  precious  mor- 
sel. 

In  proportion  as  our  appetites  succumbed  to  the  good  things 
placed  before  us,  the  Frenchman  grew  communicative.  He 
was  the  principal  of  a  fashionahle  female  school,  and,  about  ten 
days  previously,  had  lost  his  wife  in  her  accouchement.  He 
lamented  her  loss,  and  expatiated  on  her  virtues,  "  because," 
said  he,  "  I  have  been  casting  my  eyes  amongst  the  Chilenas, 
but  I  am  unable  to  find  one  who  can  supply  her  place  in  the 
seminary  !"  Three  weeks  after  this  he  was  married.  So  much 
for  the  conjugal  love  of  a  Frenchman  ! 

We  again  mounted,  and  were  soon  ascending  the  great  Cu6s- 
ta  del  Prado,  which  rises  2543  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  121 

On  one  side,  this  road,  which  has  been  termed  the  Simplon  of 
America,  has  twenty-eight  turns.  It  winds,  zigzag,  over  a 
kind  of  round  mountain  spur,  far  into  the  deep  and  almost  per- 
pendicular quebradas,  which  are  on  either  side.  In  these, 
though  the  sun  had  passed  the  meridian,  white  frost  still  hung 
on  the  leafless  shrubbery,  and  the  little  puddles  on  the  road 
were  still  covered  with  ice.  This  road,  though  good  as  it  can 
well  be  make,  is  dangerous;  carriages  have  been  hurled  from 
the  top  into  the  quebrada  below,  and  it  is  needless  to  say  what 
was  their  fate  !  The  passage  of  the  Cuesta  de  Zapata  is  equally 
dangerous,  similar  accidents  having  occurred  upon  it. 

When  at  the  top,  the  most  splendid  scene  imaginable  broke 
upon  the  view.  The  sky  was  cloudless,  the  atmosphere  was 
clear,  and  the  azure  heavens  seemed  transparent.  The  Cordil- 
leras of  the  Sierra  Nevada  stood,  in  a  mighty  chain,  before  us, 
rearing  their  summits  IS, 000  feet  towards  the  blue  vault.  The 
fleecy  snows — the  accumulation  of  ages — hung  like  a  bright 
mantle  over  its  rocks  and  cliffs,  falling  gracefully  into  the  pro- 
found gorges  and  deep  glens,  like  the  folds  of  a  rich  drapery. 
At  the  base,  the  capital  was  perceived,  but  its  towers  and  fanes 
sank  into  insignificance  in  presence  of  the  stupendous  moun- 
tain !  To  the  right,  the  stream  of  Mapocho  stole  glittering 
over  the  vega  ;  the  Maypo  called  up  the  glorious  struggle  which 
decided  the  fate  of  Chile  to  be  onward  in  the  march  of  inde- 
pendence ;  and  imagination  arrayed  the  field  with  charging 
cavalry  and  flying  squadrons,  and  the  ears  rang  with  the  ex- 
ulting shouts  of  victory  !  To  the  left,  Colina  appeared  like  a 
bright  speck  upon  the  plain,  and  in  every  direction  were 
sprinkled  "chacras"  and  "haciendas,"  teeming  with  the  labors 
of  peace!  Conforming  with  the  magnificence  of  the  scene, 
mammoth-like  condors  proudly  sailed,  between  us  and  the 
sky,  towards  their  eyries  in  the  cold  bosom  of  the  Andes  ! 

Admiration  was  spell  bound  !  We  were  awe-struck  by  the 
grandeur  of  the  mighty  works  of  nature  before  us,  and  exclaim- 
ing, "How  wonderfully  sublime  !"  gazed  on  in  silence. 

"  Ah  me  !  what  hand  can  pencil  guide,  or  pen, 
To  follow  half  on  which  the  eye  dilates, 
Through  views  more  dazzling  unto  mortal  ken, 
16 


122  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Than  those  whereof  such  things  the  bard  relates, 

Who  to  the  awe-struck  world  unlock'd  Elysium's  gates  ?"* 

As  before,  we  kedged  down  the  cuesta,  always  looking  at 
the  scene  before  us,  when  not  prevented  by  winding  far  into 
the  quebr&da ;  indeed  it  seemed  impossible  to  take  the  eye  from 
it.  Having  passed  the  cuesta,  the  road  became  level,  and  we 
drove  rapidly.  The  sun  had  ceased  to  cast  his  rays  on  the  glit- 
tering mountain,  and  the  curtain  of  night  began  to  darken  the 
vega ;  but  the  rosy  tint  of  the  snow,  and  the  glowing  sky  above, 
still  remained  when  we  arrived  at  the  entrance  of  the  city. 

The  view  of  the  Andes,  which  absorbed  our  whole  attention 
during  the  afternoon,  leading  the  mind  into  a  thousand  specu- 
lations, left  us,  when  the  day  closed,  with  feelings  elevated  far 
above  the  ordinary  concerns  of  life.  But  at  the  entrance  of  the 
city,  all  that  elevation  was  dashed  down,  and  the  mind  forced 
into  a  new  channel.  The  officers  of  the  customs,  stationed  at 
the  outskirts  of  the  capital,  stopped  us.  Two  long  lank  fel- 
lows, with  broad  brimmed  straw  hats,  tied  under  the  chin,  the 
brim  floating  free,  and  long,  dark  colored  ponchos,  made  their 
appearance.  One  held  a  dirty  tallow  candle  in  one  hand,  and 
bent  the  long  lean  fingers  of  the  other  round  the  flame,  to  de- 
fend it.  from  the  air,  at  the  same  time  endeavoring  to  look  over 
the  light,  for  the  glare  prevented  him  from  seeing  any  thing. 
They  first  advanced  upon  the  Frenchman,  whom,  after  much 
grumbling  on  his  part,  they  forced  to  dismount.  A  man  of  his 
dimensions  is  generally  good  natured,  but  he  did  not  rise  wil- 
lingly from  a  seat  in  which  he  had  been  settled  for  two  hours. 
As  he  stepped  cautiously  to  the  ground,  a  deep  groan,  ab  imo 
pectore,  escaped  slowly  from  his  lips,  infusing  itself  into  the 


•  The  battle  of  Maypo,  which  fixed  the  destinies  of  Chile,  was  fought  on 
the  5th  of  April,  1818.  The  royalist  army  was  6,000  strong,  and  that  of  the 
patriots  6,500,  including  1,000  militia.  The  victory  was  complete.  About  2,000 
royalists  were  slain,  and  3,500  were  made  prisoners.  The  patriot  loss  was 
1,000  in  killed  and  wounded. 

Previous  to  this  brilliant  victory,  Chile  had  been  depressed  by  the  disastrous 
affair  at  Cuncha  Uayada,  but  so  gnat  was  the  excitement  and  joy  on  the  recep- 
tion of  the  news  from  Maypo,  that  several  persons  irrevocably  lost  their  reason  ! 
Sec  Mcnwirs  of  General  Miller,  vol.  1.  London,  18 23. 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  123 

word  sacre,  pronounced  in  a  tone  vividly  descriptive  of  the 
feelings  of  his  inward  man.  Notwithstanding,  the  officers  care- 
fully searched  the  gig,  and  found  a  small  box  directed  to  the 
French  Consul  at  Santiago.  The  French  Dominie  plead  in 
vain.  It  was  against  the  law  to  carry  sealed  letters  or  packages ; 
this  was  therefore  a  prize.  Finding  remonstrance  useless,  he 
again  took  his  seat  and  drove  off,  breathing,  as  long  as  we  could 
hear  him,  a  mountain  of  French  curses  on  "  les  coqui?is." 

Our  turn  came  next.  Without  ceremony,  they  very  impe- 
ratively saluted  us  with,  "get  out  of  the  gig,  and  let  us  see 
what  it  contains."  Having  seen  the  fruitless  effects  of  remon- 
strance, in  the  case  of  our  companion  of  the  road,  we  thought 
ready  compliance  might  at  least  procure  us  politeness.  We 
therefore  alighted.  My  compagno?i  de  voyage  had  brought 
with  him  a  pound  of  snuff  for  an  old  gentleman  in  the  country, 
and  a  box  of  cigars  for  himself ;  and  for  which  he  had  a  "  guia" 
or  permit  from  the  custom  house  at  Valparaiso.  One  of  these 
vigilant  officers  had  mounted  and  already  opened  the  gig  box, 
when  the  "  guia"  was  presented  to  him.  The  candle  bearer 
drew  near  and  stood  in  front  of  the  wheel,  leaning  into  the  ve- 
hicle, while  the  other  seated  himself,  and  stretching  the  paper 
between  his  hands,  leaned  forward  to  the  light  which  was  now 
held  before  it.  Both  began  reading  and  spelling  the  permit, 
commencing,  "  Puerto  y  Ciudad  de  Valparaiso  y  veinto  cinco 
de  Mayo."  Every  word  was  carefully  read  or  spelled,  their 
heads  turning  from  side  to  side  as  their  eyes  followed  the  lines. 
When  they  had  finished  the  perusal,  the  snuff  and  cigars  were 
duly  examined,  to  make  sure  that  no  more  than  the  quantities 
named  in  the  permit  had  been  brought.  At  length,  being  sa- 
tisfied that  the  gig  contained  nothing  contraband,  the  capautz 
was  ordered  to  unload  the  mules  of  our  trunks.  While  this 
was  doing,  he  who  seemed  to  be  superior  drew  forth  a  pocket 
box  of  coarsely  powdered  tobacco,  and  having  very  leisurely 
prepared  an  "hoja,"  cigar,  commenced  smoking.  The  trunks 
were  opened  in  the  middle  of  the  road.  Not  an  article  escaped 
minute  examination  ;  every  shirt  was  spread  out,  and  even  the 
coat  pockets  looked  into.  All  this  was  conducted  with  the 
greatest  deliberation,  with  a  view,  no  doubt,  as  my  friend  sug- 


124 


THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


gested,  of  obtaining  some  trifling  douceur,  which  he  was  un- 
willing to  bestow,  "  because  such  a  practice  encourages  disho- 
nesty." To  their  surprise,  our  patience  was  as  indefatigable  as 
their  own  ;  and  at  last  they  said  we  might  proceed,  apologizing, 
however,  before  we  parted,  for  their  minute  search,  telling  us, 
that  they  had  found,  only  a  few  days  since,  a  lot  of  smuggled 
ribbons  concealed  in  a  lady's  soiled  dress,  which  they  brought 
to  light  from  the  top  of  her  maid's  trunk  ! 

All  this  might  have  been  avoided  by  slipping  a  few  reals 
into  the  hands  of  these  faithful  public  servants,  but  my  com- 
panion was  anxious  for  satisfaction  in  another  way  ;  whether 
he  ever  obtained  it  I  am  unable  to  state. 

After  the  trunks  were  locked — not  without  difficulty,  how- 
ever— and  placed  again  on  the  mules'  backs,  we  rattled  through 
the  streets  to  the  Fonda  Inglesa,  right  glad  to  get  to  our  jour- 
ney's end.  Here  we  were  doomed  to  meet  disappointment ; 
all  the  rooms  were  full.  But,  fortunately,  after  a  little  inquiry, 
we  found  furnished  lodgings  at  La  Fonda  de  la  Constitucion, 
nearly  opposite,  but  no  table,  so  that  we  slept  in  the  one  house 
and  eat  in  the  other. 


Barometrical  Observations  made  between  Valparaiso  and 
Santiago,  in  the  months  of  October  and  November,  1S19, 
by  John  Miers. 


Height  of 

Calculated 

Estimated 

Barometer 

Degree  ot 

Stations. 

height  above 

heights. 

in  inches. 

Thermometer. 

the  level  of 
the  sea. 



Altaelu  il.l 

Detachi  d. 

30.002 

59 

57 

Valpaiaiso,  in  a  house, 

30 

28.683 

68 

57 

Summit,  Alto  de  Valpa- 

raiso, 

1260 

1260 

29.023 

62 

60 

Post  House,  Peiiuelas, 

941 

941 

29.185 

57 

56 

Casablanca, 

745 

745 

28.972 

52 

51 

Vinilla, 

893? 

917 

26.892 

42 

39 

Ditto, 

942  3 

27.991 

51 

45 

Summit,  Cucsla  de  Za- 

pata, 

1850 

1850 

28.355 

62 

61 

Cuiicavi, 

1560 

1560 

27.4 

75 

62 

Summit,     Cuesta     del 

Prado, 

2543 

35  IS 

28.184 

72 

65 

Post  house,  Prado, 

17  "3 

1773 

28.235 

55 

56 

Santiago  dc  Chile, 

L665  I 

1727  5 

1691 

28.188 

62 

65 

Ditto, 

NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  125 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Fonda  lngle"sa  and  inmates — Fonda  del  Comercio  and  Fonda  de  la  Nacion — 
Site  of  Santiago — Description  of  the  city — Its  founding — Plaza — Shops — 
Book  stores — Dead  bodies  exposed  before  the  prison  early  in  the  morning 
— Siesta — Shopping  at  night — Ladies — Costume. 

The  Fonda  Inglesa,  or  English  Inn  at  Santiago,  which  is 
one  story  high,  built  round  a  patio,  affords  but  miserable  ac- 
commodations ;  the  rooms  are  contracted,  dirty,  and  dark. 
The  domestic  regime  of  the  Fonda  reflects  but  little  credit 
upon  its  executive,  Don  Guillermo,  as  the  landlord  is  named. 
He  is  a  Scotsman,  aged  perhaps  forty-five,  with  a  Burgundy 
face,  and  stooping  shoulders,  and  may  be  seen  at  all  times 
rolled  up  in  a  drab  lion-skin  coat,  with  mother  of  pearl  but- 
tons, gazing  on  the  billiard  table,  silently  smoking  a  cigar. 

The  billiard  room  is  filled  for  two  or  three  hours  every 
night,  with  the  fashionable  young  Chilenos,  who  play  till  eight 
or  nine  o'clock,  when  they  depart  to  some  tertulia.  Amongst 
them  were  several  who  had  just  returned  from  Europe,  whither 
they  had  been  sent  for  improvement  in  morals  ;  they  dress  in 
all  the  extravagance  of  Parisian  fashion,  and  amuse  themselves 
by  ridiculing  the  priesthood  of  their  own  country,  and  dissemi- 
nating the  Deistical  and  Atheistical  principles  acquired  abroad. 
The  only  advantage  gained  by  their  visit  to  Paris,  is  the  acqui- 
sition of  the  French  language,  which  they  speak  fluently.  To 
an  intellectual  young  Chileno,  1  expressed  a  surprise  that  they 
did  not  embark  on  a  political  career  in  Chile,  or  at  least  do 
something  to  show  the  value  of  a  visit  to  the  old  world. 
"These  young  men,"  replied  my  friend,  "  were  so  depraved 
in  mind  and  heart,  that  their  parents  sent  them  away  in  hopes 
of  reforming  them  ;  the  success  of  the  experiment  may  be  seen 
by  any  one." 

Every  day,  about  a  dozen  gentlemen  resorted  to  the  table 
d'hote.  At  one  end  sat  a  Buenosayrean,  (by  profession  a  law- 


12G  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

yerand  talking  politician,)  who,  having  been  in  England,  spoke 
English  well  and  rapidly.  For  some  reason  or  other  he  was 
dubbed  Sir  James  Mackintosh  !  The  opposite  end  was  occu- 
pied by  a  man  who  called  himself  English  or  American,  as 
occasion  suited.  He  had  been  master  of  a  merchant  vessel,  but 
through  misfortune,  or  something  worse,  was  sold  out.  Having 
lost  his  money,  as  well  as  his  character,  with  his  vessel,  he  at 
once  called  into  requisition  his  talent  for  drawing,  and  in  a 
very  short  time  gained  considerable  reputation  as  a  miniature 
painter.  Ambitious  in  his  new  art,  he  quickly  took  to  portraits, 
and  in  the  opinion  of  the  Chilian  public,  painted  a  la  mcrveille. 
How  frequently  did  he  exclaim,  "what  an  ass  I  have  been  to 
waste  my  time  on  miniatures  at  two  'onzas'  a  piece,  while  I 
get  six  for  a  portrait !  My  dear  Sir,  these  stupid  people  judge 
of  the  excellence  of  a  picture  only  by  its  size  !"  This  gentle- 
man's pursuits  had  gained  for  him  the  cognomen  of  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence.  This  Sir  Thomas  was  a  strange  compound.  He 
frequently  held  a  colloquy  with  a  large  water  dog  while  he  fed 
him.  On  such  occasions  he  would  exclaim,  "poor  Pompey! — 
they  say  you  have  no  soul — the  rascals  are  not  content  to  live 
three  times  as  long  as  any  other  animal,  but  after  that  they 

must  be  immortal — and  then,  d n  them,  they  keep  their 

immortality  to  themselves,  and  shut  out  all  other  animals  of 
this  world  ;  but,  Pompey,  'tis  vanity  ;  for  their  clay  will  be 
as  senseless  as  your  own."  To  all  of  which  Pompey  replied 
by  sagaciously  wagging  his  tail,  and  looking  grateful  for  the 
morsels  of  meat  and  consolation  bestowed  upon  him.  One  day, 
while  I  was  in  his  room,  a  party  of  young  ladies  came  to  look 
at  a  portrait  of  an  old  aunt,  who  still  flourished  at  tertulias. 
Sir  Thomas  had  invited  them  to  suggest  any  improvements, 
and  point  out  any  faults  that  might  be  apparent  in  the  picture, 
which  represented  a  smiling  countenance,  in  which  time  had 
been  making  his  marks  for  five-and-forty  years.  The  cap  and 
ribbons  were  about  half  finished.  Sir  Thomas  seated  the  ladies 
at  a  proper  distance,  and  placed  the  picture  in  the  most  advan- 
tageous  light,  at  the  same  time  asking  after  the  kind  lady's 
health,  and  making  a  thousand  trilling  queries,  accompanied 
with  smiles  and  grimaces  intended  to  be  cheerful.     Then  tak- 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  127 

ing  his  stand  beside  the  ladies,  left  foot  in  advance,  left  thumb 
in  the  arm  hole  of  his  vest,  and  his  bottle-green  frock  thrown 
back  ;  while  the  right  hand,  by  turns,  pointed  to  the  picture 
and  stroked  his  long  visage  between  the  fingers  and  thumb, 
dropping  the  lower  jaw  as  they  reached  his  chin,  he  thus  dis- 
coursed— "  Well,  ladies,  there's  a  likeness  for  you — the  mouth 
almost  as  rich  as  yours,  Dona  Panchita — (this  was  said  with 
a  bow) — and  the  eye  still  retains  its  fire  ;  it  must  have  been, 
when  young,  like  yours.  Dona  Maria  ; — (another  bow) — then 
the  cheek,  pale  to  be  sure,  possesses  a  "no  se  que"  that  I  ad- 
mire. What  a  pity  that  time  should  take  away  the  young  bloom 
from  so  fine  a  face !  Now,  when  I  look  again,  I  think,  Dona 
Carmencita,  the  cap  is  rather  high,  and  the  bow  of  ribbon  on 
the  left  side  is  rather  too  blue — very  little  though ; — dont 
you  think  so,  Dona  Rosita  Vs- 

"Quien  sabe  !"  replied  the  laughing  girl. 

"You  are  right,  ladies,"  continued  Sir  Thomas,  "the  cap 
is  too  high,  and  the  ribbon  a  very  little  too  blue  ;  the  ladies, 
for  taste  in  such  matters,  after  all."  The  ladies  really  thought, 
as  Sir  Thomas  wished,  that  they  had  suggested  the  faults  in 
the  cap  and  ribbons  ;  and  agreed  with  him  in  every  other  re- 
spect. Like  one  of  experience  and  tact  in  the  world,  he  at  once 
drew  their  attention  to  the  miniatures  of  some  young  beaux, 
and  then  to  some  prints,  keeping  up  their  admiration  to  the 
last ;  and  on  taking  leave,  assured  them,  in  a  low  tone,  that 
their  aunt's  portrait  was  his  master-piece,  and  by  no  means  a 
flattering  likeness  !" 

But  to  return  to  our  table  d'hote;  a  broken  down  English 
gentleman,  much  given  to  playing  dice;  a  young  Scotchman, 
gay  in  spite  of  misfortune,  with  an  eye  as  bright  and  blue  as 
the  bonnet  of  velvet  he  wore  on  one  side  of  his  head ;  a  dump- 
ling looking  Englishman,  who  d d  his  eyes  if  ever  he 

had  seen  such  toast,  or  such  a  set  of  ignorant,  penurious  rascals 
as  were  the  officers  of  the  Chilian  government — because  they 
would  not  pay  him  a  sum  of  money,  one-third  of  which  was 
more  than  he  could  justly  claim.  These,  with  several  others, 
whom  I  cannot  characterize,  usually  filled  the  table  j  they  were 


128  THKEE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

indeed  just  such  a  set  of  cigar-smoking,  chitty-chatty  fellows 
as  one  might  expect  to  meet  with  at  such  an  inn. 

Only  one  of  the  sojourners  have  I  omitted.  lie  was  secre- 
tary to  the  M — x — n  Legation,  and,  in  the  absence  of  the  mi- 
nister, felt  himself  elevated  almost  to  a  level  with  his  patron, 
though  nobody  in  the  house  would  concur  with  him;  there- 
fore he  treated  them  all  with  dignity.  He  eat  his  meals  in 
silence,  curled  his  lip,  and  wiped  his  knife  and  spoon  on  a 
cambric  pocket  handkerchief  before  he  began.  Poor  fellow  ! 
the  ridicule  of  his  fellow  boarders  drove  him  to  housekeeping, 
and  I  am  told,  he  keeps  no  company,  because  he  thinks  no 
one  can  appreciate  his  talents. 

A  tall,  big  nosed,  rosy  cheeked,  spectacled  Frenchman 
sometimes  took  a  seat  among  us  ;  he  was  remarkable  for  swal- 
lowing immense  quantities  of  lettuce  and  claret,  for  cleaning 
his  nails  on  his  plate  with  a  fork,  and  lolling  back  to  pick  his 
teeth,  between  the  courses,  with  the  same  instrument. 

It  is  true,  these  are  not  of  Chilian  growth,  but  I  look  upon 
them  as  amongst  the  curiosities  that  a  North  American  may 
meet  with  in  travelling,  and  as  such,  (never  having  seen  the  like 
at  home)  I  have  sketched  them.  I  do  not  believe  that  such  a 
company,  and  such  a  dirty  hotel,  with  such  an  inert  landlord, 
can  be  found  in  any  part  of  our  country.  Although  I  am  by 
no  means  very  nice  or  scrupulous  in  trifling  matters,  I  could 
not  endure  the  Fonda  Inglesa  longer  than  three  days,  and 
therefore  adopted  the  plan  of  those  Chilians  who  visit  Santiago 
on  business.  They  hire  a  furnished  room  or  rooms,  and  either 
walk  to  one  of  the  cafes  for  their  meals,  or  have  them  brought 
to  their  lodgings.  I  took  the  former  plan,  and  resorted  to  a 
cafe,  which  is  adjoining  to  the  cathedral,  where  I  found  a  card 
as  long  as  Verry's,  from  which  to  select.  Every  thing  was 
new,  neat,  and  very  clean.  The  building  was  formerly  the 
palace  of  the  bishop  of  Chile,  and  of  course  extensive.  It  en- 
closes two  or  three  courts,  and  has  a  hall  for  the  reception  ot 
ladies,  handsomely  furnished  with  carpets,  sofas,  mirrors,  lus- 
tres, and  a  piano.  In  the  Bummer,  after  a  promenade  in  the 
alameda,  it  is  a  fashionable  resort  to  eat  ices  and  confectioaary. 
From  twelve  to  three  o'clock  daily,  this  cafe  is  visited  by  a 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  129 

great  number  of  business  men  of  the  city  as  well  as  strangers. 
The  strangest  mixture  of  people  congregates  here.  The  gay 
youth  sips  his  chocolate  or  coffee  with  "  bizcochuelo"  or  cake, 
beside  the  tonsured  friar,  regaling  himself  on  a  mutton  chop 
and  a  bottle  of  claret.  The  countenances  of  some  are  severe 
and  business  like;  some  light  and  careless,  and  others,  dig- 
nified  but  mild.  Parties  of  two,  or  three,  or  four,  scattered 
over  the  long  hall,  around  small  tables,  contrast  with  each 
other;  some  are  talking  in  low  tones,  others  are  disputatious, 
others  jocular,  and  others,  again,  only  argumentative.  Such  is 
El  Cafe  del  Comercio.  Nearly  opposite  to  it  is  another,  called 
El  Cafe  de  la  Nacion,  which  is  not  so  much  frequented.  Both 
are  furnished  with  billiard  tables.  That  game  is  as  necessary 
to  the  happiness  of  a  Chileno,  and  in  fact  to  every  man  with 
Spanish  blood  in  his  veins,  as  eating  or  smoking  cigars. 

Having  established  myself  as  comfortably  as  circumstances 
would  allow,  I  at  once  commenced  visiting  and  examining  the 
few  "lions"  contained  in  the  Chilian  capital. 

The  plain  on  which  Santiago  stands,  extends  about  forty 
miles  north  and  south,  and  fifteen  east  and  west,  being  shut  in 
on  one  side  by  the  Andes,  and  on  the  other  by  Cuesta  del  Prado 
and  the  continuous  hills.  On  the  south  it  is  bounded  by  the 
river  Maypo,  and  on  the  north  by  the  high  hills  beyond  Colina. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  coincidences  within  my  know- 
ledge is,  that  all  the  colonies  of  Europe  bear  a  striking  resem- 
blance, in  the  features  of  the  soil  and  landscape,  to  the  mother 
country  from  which  they  respectively  sprang.  Who  does  not 
perceive  the  likeness  between  Portugal  and  Brazil?  No  one 
can  gaze  from  the  summit  of  the  Cuesta  del  Prado,  upon  the 
vega  on  which  stands  Santiago,  without  recurring  to  Granada, 
and  a  busy  fancy  may  easily  compare  St.  Lucia  with  the  rock 
of  the  Alhambra,  and  going  back  to  the  early  ages,  see  in  the 
Araucanian  and  Spanish  heroes  in  Chile,  a  repetition  of  the 
Castillians  and  Moors.  The  variety  of  arid  plains,  fertile  val- 
leys, and  snowy  mountains,  in  the  Spanish  part  of  South  Ame- 
rica, Mexico,  Colombia,  Peru,  and  Chile,  produces  a  scenery 
strikingly  like  that  of  Spain,  though  the  portrait  is  colossal  in 
its  dimensions.  To  carry  out  the  comparison,  is  not  the  face 
17 


130  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

of  the  northern  section  of  the  United  States  something  like  that 
of  England  ?  Now,  it  is  not  strange,  that  Chile  and  Peru  should 
resemble  Spain,  but  that  the  countries  of  Europe  should  dis- 
cover and  settle  lands  similar  to  their  own,  is  certainly  re- 
markable ! 

The  city  is  laid  out  in  regular  squares  of  four  hundred  and 
eight  feet  on  each  side,  separated  by  streets  forty-two  feet 
broad,  and  of  course,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  Their 
direction  is  nearly  east  and  west,  and  north  and  south.  They 
are  paved  with  round  pebbles,  and  have  a  trottoir  of  wrought 
flag  stones  on  one  side.  Gutters  are  left  in  the  centre,  through 
which,  during  part  of  the  day,  flow  streams  of  water  from  the 
river  Mapocho,  which  passes  the  city  on  its  north  and  western 
sides.  These  streams  are  useful  in  washing  away  the  filth  of 
the  city,  which  is  perhaps  the  cleanest  in  South  America.  The 
Mapocho  also  affords  to  the  citizens  the  luxury  of  private  and 
public  baths. 

The  architecture  of  the  private  dwellings,  as  well  as  that  of 
the  public  buildings,  is  of  the  Moorish  style.  The  houses  are 
one  and  two  stories  high,  built  of  "  adobes,"  whitewashed  out- 
side, and  roofed  with  red  tiles.  Although  the  winter  is  cool, 
and  snow  is  occasionally  seen  in  the  streets,  very  few  houses, 
even  of  the  best  kind,  have  chimneys  or  hearths;  the  rooms 
being  warmed  by  "  brazeros"  of  charcoal.  The  windows 
opening  into  the  patio,  are  secured  on  the  outside  with  orna- 
mental "rejas"  or  iron  gratings,  which  are  sometimes  gilt, 
and  closed  on  the  inside  by  glazed  sashes  of  tin.  The  small 
houses  that  open  directly  on  the  street,  are  closed  by  a  double 
door,  with  a  grated  wicket  about  a  foot  square,  in  the  upper 
part  of  one  half  of  it,  which  is  the  only  window  in  the  dwell- 
ing. The  best  houses  in  Santiago,  have  been  constructed  by 
carpenters  from  the  United  States;  and  in  some  cases,  owing 
to  the  scarcity  of  suitable  wood,  the  windows  and  doors,  and  a 
great  part  of  the  frame,  already  manufactured,  have  been  im- 
ported from  our  country. 

The  style  of  architecture,  leaves  two  small  rooms  on  each 
side  of  the  "  puertacalle,"  or  great  entrance,  originally  designed 
for  porter's  lodge  and  servant's  room ;  but  now,  we  iind  sonic 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  131 

of  the  finest  dwellings  disfigured  by  having  these  apartments 
rented  for  *' pulpcrias,"  (dram-shops,)  or  for  cobbler's  stalls, 
where  may  be  seen  the  disciple  of  St.  Crispin,  hammering  at 
his  last,  and  his  sluttish  wife  employed  at  her  needle,  while  a 
half  dozen  squalid,  squalling  brats  are  sprawling  over  the  floor 
in  filth  and  dirt.  Whether  this  proceeds  from  carelessness  of 
appearances,  or  from  the  desire  of  increasing  revenue,  I  will 
not  decide,  though  I  am  strongly  inclined  to  the  latter  suppo- 
sition. 

The  city  of  Santiago  was  founded  on  the  24th  of  February, 
1541,  by  Captain  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  and  then  called  "Santi- 
ago de  la  nueva  Estremadura.  "*  On  the  outskirts  of  the 
city  there  is  a  small  house,  sunk  below  the  level  of  the  street, 
said  to  be  that  occupied  by  the  founder ;  with  what  truth,  how- 
ever, I  must  leave  to  antiquarians  to  discover. 

The  plaza  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  occupies 
an  entire  square.  On  the  north-western  side  are  the  presiden- 
tial mansion,  the  palace  of  the  government,  the  prison,  and  the 
courts  of  justice;  forming  altogether  a  fine  white  building,  be- 
fore the  several  doors  of  which  sentries  are  always  on  post. 
On  the  south-western  side  stand  the  cathedral,  and  the  old 
palace  of  the  bishop  of  Chile,  now  occupied  as  the  Cafe  del  Co- 
mercio.  The  cathedral  is  but  half  finished,  though  it  was  com- 
menced more  than  sixty  years  since.  It  is  in  the  Moorish 
style,  and  is  the  only  stone  building  in  the  capital ;  all  the 
others  being  of  "adobes,"  whitewashed.  The  south-eastern 
side  of  the  square,  is  a  "  portal"  or  portico,  occupied  below  by 
drygood  shops,  and  above,  by  private  residences.  On  the  north- 
eastern side  are  the  Cafe  de  la  Nacion,  and  a  number  of  "  tien- 
das"  or  shops,  which  are  closed  by  rough  doors,  secured  on 
the  outside,  when  the  shop  keepers  are  abroad,  by  great  pad- 
locks of  a  coarse  fabric. 

At  the  eastern  side  of  the  city,  is  a  high  conical  hill  of  gra- 
nite, called  Santa  Lucia,  upon  which  are  a  fortress,  a  barrack, 
and  a  powder  magazine.  The  fortress  was  built  by  the  Spa- 
niards, not  very  long  after  the  foundation ;  it  completely  com- 

*  Herrera.  Historia  de  las  Indias  Occidentales. 


132  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

mands  the  city,  and  was  probably  erected  to  check  rebellion 
and  internal  commotions.  From  the  top  of  this  hill,  the  city 
and  the  vicinity  are  spread  out  like  a  map  at  the  feet  of  the 
beholder,  presenting  to  him  the  streets,  and  the  surrounding 
villas  and  gardens,  at  a  single  coup  (Tozil.  Almost  every  house 
has  a  garden  attached  to  it.  From  this  cause  the  city  extends 
over  much  more  ground  than  an  equal  population  (not  exceed- 
ing forty  thousand,)  would  require  in  our  country. 

The  plaza,  in  Spanish  towns,  is  always  a  busy  spot.  The 
fountain  in  the  centre  is  constantly  visited  by  the  "  aguadores," 
filling  and  carrying  away  water;  the  small  retail  shops  sur- 
rounding the  square,  filled  with  a  variety  of  articles,  (for  trade 
has  not  yet  become  sub-divided  into  branches,  as  in  the  large 
cities  of  Europe  and  the  United  States,)  attract  many  pur- 
chasers ;  along  the  trottoir  are  sprinkled  baskets  of  various 
produce ;  horsemen  in  ponchos  and  straw  hats,  are  dashing 
across  the  plaza,  and  every  variety  of  vehicle,  from  the  quick- 
moving  coach  and  four,  through  the  grades  of  "calesa,"  and 
gig,  to  the  lumbering  carreta,  may  be  seen  pursuing  their  re- 
spective routes. 

Almost  every  shop  has  on  its  shelves  a  few  books,  consisting 
chiefly  of  French  translations  and  ecclesiastical  works.  There 
is  no  book  store  in  the  place ;  the  largest  collection  is  displayed 
amidst  hardware  and  cutlery.  Although  so  very  popular,  I 
was  unable  to  procure  a  copy  of  Don  Quixote  in  the  city. 

Early  in  the  morning,  at  the  prison  door,  may  be  seen, 
almost  every  day,  one  or  two  dead  bodies,  stretched  out  upon 
the  stones,  with  a  plate  upon  the  breast,  to  collect  alms  for  their 
interment.  These  are  the  result  of  the  horrid  practice  of  de- 
ciding personal  disputes  amongst  the  lower  orders  by  having 
recourse  to  the  murderous  knife,  instead  of  the  more  rational 
and  innocent  plan  of  John  Bull's  descendants,  of  bruising  each 
other  with  the  weapons  nature  gave  them — their  fists.  At  the 
"pulperias,"  where  the  "peones"  resort  at  night,  to  drink 
"  chicha"  and  "aguardiente"  (brandy),  and  sing  and  dance  to 
the  sound  of  harp  and  guitar,  disputes  frequently  arise  when 
the  brain  becomes  heated  by  strong  drink.  Then  the  poncho 
is  rolled  around  the  left  arm,  to  be  used  as  a  shield,  and  the 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  133 

knife,  constantly  worn  at  the  back,  is  seized  in  the  right  hand, 
and  the  antagonists  are  encircled  by  a  ring  of  by-standers,  to 
see  what  gentlemen  of  "  the  science  of  defence"  have  been 
pleased  to  term  fair  play.  The  dexterity  in  the  use  of  the 
weapon,  which  they  manage  like  a  rapier,  in  the  lunge  and 
garde,  is  truly  surprising.  The  attack  is  fierce  on  both  sides. 
Death  of  one  of  the  parties,  or  severe  wounds,  are  the  certain 
consequence  of  such  rencontres ;  hence  it  is,  that  foreigners  are 
under  the  impression  that  assassination  is  a  common  crime 
amongst  Chilenos.  Yet,  the  practice,  having  strict  regard  to 
the  term,  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  frequent ;  for  we  should 
hardly  say  that  a  man  is  assassinated,  who  falls  by  an  unlucky 
blow  in  a  fist  fight. 

After  two  o'clock,  until  near  sunset,  the  plaza  is  almost  de- 
serted, the  shops  are  closed,  and  every  body  is  enjoying  the 
siesta.  About  six  o'clock  all  is  again  awake,  the  shops  are 
open,  and  the  square  is  crowded  with  ladies,  shopping,  or  pass- 
ing to  and  from  the  Alameda.  They  walk  unattended  by  gen- 
tlemen, with  the  head  uncovered,  except  occasionally  by  a  veil 
h  la  Madonna,  and  the  hair  ornamented  with  natural  flowers. 
This  custom  gives  them  a  degree  of  independence,  not  enjoyed 
by  the  ladies  in  the  United  States  ;  nor  are  they  ever  insulted 
by  being  impertinently  accosted. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Tajamar — Military  Academy — Militia  System — San  Liines — Alameda — An 
evening  visit — Card  playing — National  Institute — Schools — Sociedad  Filar- 
monica — Otavario — Procession — Praying  for  rain — State  of  medicine  and 
pharmacy. 

Along  the  bank  of  the  river  Mapocho  is  built  a  wall,  about 
six  feet  high  and  four  feet  broad,  with  a  walk  on  the  top,  pav- 
ed with  small  pebbles,  and  a  parapet  next  to  the  water.  At 
convenient  distances  are  steps  from  the  ground,  made  of  stone. 


134  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

From  its  offering  a  barrier  to  the  waters  of  the  river  during 
freshets,  it  is  termed  the  "Tajamar,"  or  breakwater  ;  and  is  a 
fashionable  promenade  of  a  Sunday  afternoon,  for  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  rich  and  poor.  The  whole  world  walk  on  the  top 
of  the  wall,  or  rest  on  the  parapet,  gazing  at  the  pomp  and 
grandeur  of  the  scenery,  or  at  the  passing  multitude.  The 
river  is  seen,  split  into  several  channels  by  beds  of  gravel, 
brawling  in  its  course  from  the  lofty  Cordilleras,  and  disap- 
pearing under  a  stone  bridge  of  several  arches,  which  leads 
from  the  city  to  a  suburb  called  La  Canadilla.  When  the 
glow  of  sunset  tinges  the  eternal  snows  of  the  mountains, 
and  the  hills  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  begin  to  grow 
dark  in  approaching  twilight,  the  scene  is  grand  beyond  de- 
scription. The  plain  upon  which  the  city  stands  is  so  high 
that  the  atmosphere  refracts  the  light  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
deceive  the  eye  in  estimating  distance.  One  feels  tempted  to 
stretch  out  the  hand  from  the  street,  and  place  it  against  the 
side  of  the  mountains  ;  yet  they  are  twenty  miles  distant ! 

In  the  neighborhood  of  the  Tajamar,  are  the  cockpit  and 
ball  alley,  where  gentlemen  play  at  the  game  of  "  fives."  Both 
places  are  crowded  on  Sundays  and  festivals,  by  the  young 
gentlemen  of  the  city. 

Monday  being  a  military  day,  I  visited  the  military  acade- 
my, lately  established  in  this  city.  It  contains  at  present  eighty 
cadets,  who  are  taught  every  thing  pertaining  to  the  profession 
of  arms,  by  professors,  who  are  either  Frenchmen  or  English- 
men. The  pupils  are  designed  for  officers  of  the  army  and  mi- 
litia, which  is  established  on  a  plan  well  adapted  to  instruct 
the  whole  male  population  of  the  country  in  the  use  of  arms. 
The  men  are  armed  and  exercised  every  Monday  afternoon, 
in  companies  and  regiments,  in  the  Alameda  de  la  Canada. 
As  the  shopkeepers  are  prohibited  from  opening  their  shops  on 
that  afternoon,  till  after  the  parade  be  over,  the  day  is  face- 
tiously termed  "San  Ltines,"  or  Saint  Monday.  The  same 
plan  is  established  in  every  town  and  village  throughout  the 
country.  The  review  draws  crowds  of  ladies  to  witness  the 
evolutions,  and  some  to  see  the  young  beaux  in  gay  uniforms, 
strutting  before  their  men,  whose  dark  Indian  visages  contrast 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  135 

strongly  with  their  entirely  white  dress.  They  are  a  stout  and 
brave  race;  and  from  their  constant  habit  of  sleeping  in  the 
open  air,  and  faring  hardly,  make  excellent  soldiers. 

There  are  several  fine  military  bands,  which  add  much  to 
the  display.  It  is  in  the  Alameda  that  the  whole  beauty  and 
fashion  of  Chile  may  be  seen  strolling  along  the  shady  walks 
in  gay  attire,  on  fine  afternoons;  in  fact  I  have  never  seen  any 
where  so  many  good  looking  women  as  in  the  Alameda,  on 
a  Sunday,  in  the  summer,  just  before  sunset.  The  Alameda 
is  about  a  mile  long,  and  one  hundred  feet  wide,  planted  with 
double  rows  of  poplar  trees,  having  streams  of  water  running 
between  them,  and  white  stone  seats,  in  their  shade,  at  conve- 
nient distances.  It  is  the  finest  promenade  in  South  America, 
and  is  kept  in  excellent  order.  Every  evening  in  the  summer 
it  is  a  place  of  general  resort.  Gentlemen  enjoy  the  "  cigarrito," 
and  ladies  bons-bo?is  and  trifles  beneath  the  trees.  Boys  mani- 
fest their  early  propensities  for  gambling,  by  placing  two  chips 
or  two  pieces  of  water  melon  in  the  stream,  and  stake  small 
sums  upon  which  will  beat  in  the  race,  running  along  the  edge, 
shouting  and  laughing,  as  they  keep  way  with  the  objects  of 
their  interest. 

On  a  Sunday  evening  I  visited  an  elderly  lady  of  the  haut 
ton  of  Santiago.  The  house  of  Doiia  Xaviera  is  a  large  one, 
and  resembles  most  of  the  fashionable  mansions  of  the  city.  It 
is  one  story  high,  with  a  great  "puertacalle"  opening  from 
the  street  into  a  large  patio,  paved  with  small  pebbles,  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  being  tesselated. 
Sleeping  rooms  look  into  it  from  right  and  left,  while  the  side 
parallel  with  the  street,  and  farthest  from  it,  is  taken  up  by  the 
"  Sala"  and  "  Cuddra" — hall  and  drawing  room.  The  "  Cud- 
dra"  is  a  large  apartment,  with  a  high  ceiling,  separated  from 
the  "  Sala"  by  a  glass  partition,  constructed  of  large  panes, 
the  edges  of  which  lap  over  each  other,  instead  of  being  se- 
cured in  a  sash.  The  furniture  of  the  cuadra  is  remarkable  for 
the  abundance  of  chairs  and  sofas,  ranged  in  two  confronting 
lines.  There  are  two  mirrors  on  the  same  side  of  the  wall, 
with  a  table  beneath  each,  having  "guardabrisas,"  or  candle- 
shades  upon  them,  far  too  costly  and  beautiful  to  guard  from 


136  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  air  the  indifferently  clean  tallow  candles  burning  in  them. 
Spermaceti  candles  are  only  used  on  special  occasions,  and 
lamps  are  seldom  seen. 

The  sala  is  quite  as  large  as  the  cuadra  itself,  but  furnished 
in  a  less  expensive  style.  It  is  the  apartment  where  the  family 
ordinarily  sit,  and  receive  familiar  friends.  I  passed  through 
the  sala,  and  as  I  made  my  way  to  the  cuddra,  perceived  through 
the  partition  that  it  was  filled  with  company.  Two  card  tables 
were  spread  out ;  at  one  of  which  a  party  was  playing  at 
"malilla" — a  fashionable  game  at  cards — and  at  the  other  was 
Dona  Paulita,  the  only  daughter  of  Doiia  Xaviera,  and  opposite 
to  her  a  Canonigo.  On  his  left  Dona  Jesusita,  a  cousin  of  Doiia 
Paulita,  and  opposite  to  her  Don  Manuel,  an  intimate  of  the 
family.  They  were  laughing  over  a  simple  game,  called  "ten- 
derete."  A  young  gentleman  was  seated  at  the  piano,  playing 
a  quadrille,  while  several  were  standing  in  the  centre  of  the 
room,  talking,  and  smoking  "  hojitas."  A  large,  good  natured, 
greasy  looking  friar,  sat  chatting  with  a  toothless  lady,  near 
the  table  of  the  young  people  ;  such  was  the  aspect  when  I  en- 
tered. The  music  ceased  ;  not  on  account  of  deference,  but  be- 
cause their  visiter  was  an  old  acquaintance,  who  had  the  credit 
of  having  saved  the  life  of  Dona  Paulita's  uncle.  After  the 
usual  salutation,  the  card  players  continued  their  games  ;  but 
the  young  gentlemen  exerted  themselves  for  my  entertainment. 
I  drew  a  chair  near  Dona  Paulita,  and  seated  myself  to  observe 
the  game,  and  enjoy  the  humor  and  wit  that  were  flowing 
from  the  good  Canonigo.  He  possessed  an  intelligent  counte- 
nance, keen  black  eyes,  and  silky  black  hair,  and  was  not  more 
than  thirty-five  years  of  age.  His  fine  figure  was  displayed  in 
a  single  breasted  frock  coat,  with  standing  collar,  buttoned  to 
the  throat.  His  tonsure  was  neat,  and,  upon  the  whole,  he  was 
the  handsomest,  as  well  as  the  tidiest  priest  I  remember  to  have 
met  in  South  America.  The  game  of  "  tenderete"  was  soon 
changed  for  another,  called  "brisca,"  which  is  something  like 
whist;  instead,  however,  of  counting  tricks,  the  lace  cards  count 
ten,  and  whichever  side  takes  most,  wins.  Moreover,  the 
players  are  allowed  to  trump  or  not,  as  they  may  deem  most 
advantageous.   Don  Manuel  very  politely  offered  to  resign  his 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  137 

seat  to  me,  but  I  preferred  sitting  near  Dofia  Paulita,*  even  had 
I  been  previously  initiated  into  the  mysteries  of  "  brisca."  The 
Can&nigo  established  the  forfeit  to  be,  that  whoever  lost,  should 
be  obliged  to  make  a  number  of  faces  and  grimaces  for  the  di- 
version of  the  company.  He  was  the  first  to  lose,  and  paid  in 
some  very  droll  and  whimsical  changes  of  countenance,  which 
would  have  been  creditable  even  to  a  man  of  lighter  profession 
than  that  of  a  Catholic  priest.  As  mirth  and  amusement  were 
the  object  of  the  game,  this  mode  of  gambling,  without  dimi- 
nishing the  weight  of  the  purse,  did  less  injury  to  the  better 
feelings  of  the  heart,  than  betting  gold,  while  it  ensured  a  hearty 
laugh,  both  to  winners  and  losers. 

After  some  time,  Dona  Paulita  said,  "  you  did  not  come  to 
dine  to  day.     We  waited  from  four  till  near  six  o'clock" — 

"Yes,"  interrupted  the  canonigo,  "the  second  course  was 
eaten  by  candle  light,  and  what  was  worse,  nearly  cold  L" 

I  was  surprised  to  learn  that  I  had  been  expected.  I  had 
received,  the  day  before,  an  invitation  to  walk  in  the  Alameda 
after  dinner,  but  I  did  not  go,  in  consequence  of  the  afternoon 
being  disagreeably  cold  and  rainy.  My  explanation  was  re- 
ceived, and  the  canonigo  chided  Dona  Paulita  for  not  having 
been  more  particular  in  her  invitation.  Doiia  Xaviera  was  not 
present,  because,  as  the  daughter  told  me,  "tuvo  dolores  de 
barriga,"  and  had  laid  down. 

Tea  and  mate  were  brought.  Several  mates  were  circulating 
at  the  same  time.  The  canonigo  and  cousin  took  theirs  while 
playing  the  game.  It  is  droll  to  see  a  pretty  young  lady  suck- 
ing mate  through  a  silver  bombilla,  hot  enough  to  burn  the  lips 
of  those  ignorant  of  the  mode  of  taking  it. 

At  eight  o'clock  the  fat  friar  took  his  leave,  and  the  old  lady 
assisted  Doiia  Paulita  in  the  game  with  her  advice.  The  ca- 
nonigo made  a  move  as  if  to  depart,  evidently  with  a  wish  to 
remain.  "Do  not  go,  Padre,"  exclaimed  the  young  lady, 
"  omit  the  l  misa'  of  to-night,  and  say  two  to-morrow  instead." 
The  holy  man  assented,  and  resumed  the  game.  The  evening 
passed  away  gaily,  and  at  eleven,  I  bade  my  friends  good  night. 

*  Paulita  is  the  diminutive  and  kinder  term  for  Paula. 
IS 


138  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Amongst  the  guests  was  a  Chileno,  who  had  been  in  the 
United  States  as  Charge  d'affaires.  Speaking  of  our  country, 
and  those  things  which  struck  him  as  curious,  he  told  the  gen- 
tlemen that  our  "prisons  are  secure  without  military  guards, 
and  that  he  had  seen  no  soldiers  in  the  country  except  the  vo- 
lunteer corps  on  holy-days  ;"  contrasted  with  the  countries  of 
South  America,  where  even  the  municipal  police  consists  of 
soldiers,  this  circumstance  is  striking.  This  gentleman  re- 
marked further,  that  "previous  to  the  revolution  of  1829, 
Chile  had  advanced  in  slow,  sure  steps ;  but  since  that  period 
society  had  split  into  political  parties,  and  the  social  intercourse 
created  and  cherished  by  the  Sociedad  Filarmonica  had  al- 
most ceased." 

The  Philharmonic  Society  was  instituted  in  1S27,  for  im- 
proving and  fostering  the  native  taste  for  music,  and  creating 
a  more  generally  social  intercourse.  The  entertainments  were 
given  weekly,  and  consisted  of  music,  both  instrumental  and 
vocal,  by  ladies  and  gentlemen — conversation  and  dancing — 
the  native  fandangos  were  proscribed.  The  beneficial  effects 
of  this  society  upon  the  general  taste  for  music  is  very  mani- 
fest. Before  its  institution,  nothing  was  heard  but  a  few 
waltzes,  contradances,  and  marches,  on  the  piano,  or  simple 
native  songs,  accompanied  by  the  guitar ;  and  ten  years  ago, 
pianos  were  rare  in  the  country,  (an  instrument  styled  the 
clav6  being  a  substitute),  but  now  they  are  found  in  almost 
every  house.  At  that  time  music  was  taught  by  imitation,  or 
parrot-like,  without  principles,  or  written  or  printed  music. 
As  late  as  1S28, 1  saw  young  ladies  following  the  fingers  of  the 
master,  learning  a  few  bars  at  a  time,  and  by  practice  fixing 
them  in  the  memory.  Now,  on  the  contrary,  the  compositions 
of  the  first  German  and  Italian  masters,  Mozart,  Von  Weber, 
Rossini,  Paccini,  &c,  are  performed  by  the  young  ladies  with 
great  taste  and  execution.  This  love  of  music  has  led  to  the 
study  of  the  Italian,  French,  and  English  languages;  and  it 
is  by  no  means  uncommon  to  meet  with  young  ladies,  who 
read  and  speak  one  or  more  of  these  tongues  witli  tolerable 
propriety. 

Education  and  the  diffusion  of  knowledge  appear  to  occupy 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  139 

a  great  share  of  the  public  attention  in  Chile.  Experience  has 
taught,  that  the  South  American  republics  will  never  be  tran- 
quil or  happy,  while  military  prowess  and  glory  dazzle  the 
minds  of  the  people,  who  want  the  lights  of  knowledge  to  en- 
able them  to  estimate  correctly  the  nature  of  their  rights  and 
privileges.  Convinced  of  this  fact,  the  legislature  has  labored 
to  establish  schools  in  every  section  of  the  country.  The  con- 
vents have  been  required  to  open  free  schools,  for  instructing 
children  in  reading,  writing,  morals,  urbanity — a  branch  much 
neglected  in  our  common  schools — and  arithmetic,  on  the  Lan- 
casterian  plan.  Besides,  every  encouragement  is  given  to  pri- 
vate schools  for  both  sexes. 

El  Instituto  Nacional  was  established  in  1S21,  on  the 
d&bris  of  a  college  which  existed  during  the  reign  of  Fer- 
dinand VII.  It  is  adjoining  to  an  old  Jesuistical  church,  called 
La  Campania,  the  front  of  which  is  ornamented  with  no  less 
than  seven  representations  of  the  Saviour.  In  the  Institute 
are  taught  Latin,  English,  French,  mathematics,  geography, 
grammar,  and  what  are  very  expressively  denominated  "las  pri- 
meras  letras"  or  elements — the  last  on  the  Lancasterian  plan. 
Roman  law  is  also  taught.  The  college  is  supported  by  an  ap- 
propriation derived  from  the  church  tithes,  and  the  fees  of  the 
resident  pupils,  who  pay  each  one  hundred  dollars  annually. 
Day  scholars  attend  gratis. 

When  I  visited  the  Institute,  the  geography  class  was  re- 
citing. The  professor  gave  the  cardinal  points  of  the  compass 
to  a  boy,  and  directed  him  to  supply,  on  the  black  board,  the 
intermediate  ones ;  then  required  him  to  describe  the  figure  of 
the  earth,  which  was  very  readily  done.  In  another  apart- 
ment, a  class  in  mathematics  was  reciting.  At  one  end  of  the 
room  stood  the  pedagogue,  "  with  spectacles  on  nose,"  beside 
a  rough  table,  upon  which  was  a  fragment  of  an  earthen  vessel 
containing  a  coal  of  fire,  flanked  by  a  cigar  case ;  the  dominie 
was  not  smoking.  A  boy  of  about  twelve  years  of  age  was 
demonstrating  a  problem  in  geometry  ; — how  to  find  a  centre 
for  a  circle,  which  should  cut  three  given  points.  The  pupil 
seemed  to  be  au  fait,  and  convinced  us  that  he  understood 
what  he  was  saying.    I  was  requested,  by  both  professors,  to 


140  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

propose  any  questions  to  any  of  the  students,  that  I  might  sa- 
tisfy myself  of  their  progress.  This  I  declined,  because  I  was 
a  foreigner,  and  unwilling  to  risk  questions  which  I  might  fail 
in  making  understood. 

Thursday,  the  2Sth  of  June,  was  a  holy-day,  called  the  "Ota- 
vario,"  from  "ocho"  and  "diario,"  the  eighth  day  after  Cor- 
pus. At  each  corner  of  the  plaza  was  erected  a  temporary  altar, 
decorated  with  saints,  candles,  and  tinsel.  On  one  sat  St.  Peter, 
all  alone  with  his  keys,  and  another  represented  the  descent 
from  the  cross.  During  half  the  morning,  there  were  crowds 
about  the  corners,  looking  on  the  erection  and  decoration  of 
the  altars,  by  the  "peones,"  under  the  supervision  of  several 
padres.  The  ornaments  consisted  of  looking  glasses,  shells, 
candles,  silk,  and  tinsel  ;  the  saints  were  borrowed  from  differ- 
ent churches  for  the  occasion. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  several  regiments  marched 
into  the  plaza,  and  formed  two  squares,  single  file,  one  within 
the  other,  leaving  a  space  of  forty  feet  between  them,  for  the 
passage  of  the  procession.  The  centre  of  the  square  was  crowd- 
ed with  ladies,  all  in  the  usual  black,  church-going  habiliments, 
consisting  of  the  mantilla  or  veil,  and  a  black  dress.  The  win- 
dows  of  the  neighboring  houses,  from  which  hung  silk  and 
velvet  banners  of  various  colors,  were  crowded  with  ladies 
and  gentlemen.  Over  the  doors  of  the  houses  in  the  principal 
streets,  flags  were  displayed,  some  half-mast,  and  others  union 
down,  not  intentionally,  but  through  careless  indifference.  At 
twilight,  the  candles  on  the  several  altars  were  lighted,  the 
bells  rang,  and  guns  were  fired  from  the  fortress  on  St.  Lucia. 
At  the  same  time,  the  procession  began  to  issue  from  the  cathe- 
dral, which  was  brilliantly  illuminated.  First  came  "La  Co- 
fr&dia,"  or  brotherhood  of  the  "  Herm&nos  de  Nuestro  Amo" 
— Brothers  of  Our  Master — wearing  white  satin  capes,  em- 
broidered with  gold,  in  two  single  files,  each  one  bearing  a 
long  wax  candle.  Then  the  friars  of  the  several  orders,  each 
one  being  accompanied  by  its  respective  banner  or  symbol, 
consisting  of  a  gaudy  silk  drum,  surmounted  by  a  cross  borne 
aloft  in  the  air.  Next  followed  the  cadets,  in  full  dress,  from 
the  Military  Academy,  and  a  Can6nigo,  chanting  a  psalm,  pre- 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  141 

ceding  "Su  Magestdd,"  or  The  Host,  carried  by  priests,  be- 
neath a  silken  canopy,  supported  by  silver  or  silvered  sticks. 
As  this  passed,  every  body  knelt  upon  the  ground.  Next  fol- 
lowing was  the  President  of  Chile,  in  a  General's  uniform, 
and  the  Cabinet  Ministers,  each  bearing  a  candle.  Near  them 
was  a  boy  of  ten  years  old,  a  descendant  from  the  Carreras, 
so  celebrated  in  the  Revolution,  dressed  in  a  colonel's  uniform. 
He  is  now  educating  at  the  Military  Academy.  President 
Pinto,  with  consent  of  Congress,  made  him  his  aid,  as  a  reward 
for  the  distinguished  services  of  his  family.  Close  after,  fol- 
lowed the  Presidential  guard,  and  a  corps  of  cavalry,  with  a 
mounted  brass  band.  In  this  order  the  procession  moved  round 
the  whole  square,  stopping  for  a  short  time  before  each  altar, 
while  the  censer  smoked,  and  prayers  ascended.  The  different 
bands  were  playing  in  succession,  guns  were  firing,  bells  were 
ringing,  and  every  body  was  uncovered.  As  the  Host  passed 
them,  the  soldiers  knelt  on  one  knee,  in  platoons,  their  heads 
bent  on  their  breasts.  The  crowd  in  the  rear  imitated  the  ex- 
ample. 

The  procession  re-entered  the  cathedral,  the  saints  were  re- 
turned to  their  dark  niches  with  due  formality,  after  having 
been  aired  all  day  in  the  plaza,  and  the  whole  show  soon  dis- 
appeared ; — at  eight  o'clock  the  plaza  presented  the  usual 
nightly  scene  of  nickering  lights,  ladies  walking  and  shopping. 

Similar  processions  (of  which  I  witnessed  two  or  three)  are 
made  in  seasons  of  drought,  in  honor  of  some  influential  saint, 
to  obtain  his  or  her  intercession  with  the  clouds  to  dispense 
their  fertilizing  showers!  The  efficacy  of  such  ceremonies  is 
a  matter  of  grave  belief,  because  the  wily  priests  wait  till  there 
is  every  prospect  of  rain,  before  they  begin  to  pray,  and  thus 
the  pro/ anum  vulgus  are  deceived  into  credence.  The  prayers 
are  more  successful  at  one  time  than  at  another  ;  for  I  am  told 
that  the  whole  ecclesiastic  corps  have  labored  incessantly  at 
devotion,  during  a  whole  week,  without  drawing  a  single  drop 
of  water  from  the  sky  '. 

The  hospitals  of  Santiago  are  not  equal  to  similar  institutions 
in  other  parts  of  the  world,  as  respects  the  comforts  and  at- 
tentions afforded  to  the  sick.     That  of  San  Juan  de  Dios,  has 


142  THREE  YEARS  IN  TTTE  PACIFIC. 

several  wards,  all  illy  ventilated,  containing  two  hundred  and 
thirty  patients,  of  whom  one  hundred  and  three  were  suffering 
with  small  pox.  These  cases  were  not  separated  from  the  rest. 
In  the  surgical  wards,  were  several  with  knife  wounds,  re- 
ceived in  midnight  brawls  in  the  suburbs.  This  hospital  is 
under  the  direction  of  English  physicians. 

As  in  Spain,  the  profession  of  medicine  is  lowly  estimated 
in  Chile,  yet  efforts  have  been  made  to  elevate  the  standing  of 
its  members  in  society,  and  with  considerable  success.  In 
1S26,  Doctor  William  Blest,  an  English  practitioner,  publish- 
ed in  Santiago,  some  "  Observations  on  the  Actual  State  of 
Medicine  in  Chile,"  in  which  he  assigns  its  low  state  to  the 
want  of  a  liberal  education  in  those  who  enter  the  profes- 
sion, the  want  of  a  proper  system  of  medical  instruction, 
and  to  the  slender  fees  paid  for  their  services.  Several  of 
the  medical  men  of  Santiago  are  mulattoes.  Within  two  or 
three  years  a  board  of  examiners  has  been  established,  who, 
without  any  regard  to  certificates  or  diplomas,  from  universi- 
ties or  colleges,  examine  the  candidates  for  practice  in  Latin, 
Spanish,  and  the  several  branches  of  the  healing  art,  in  the 
most  rigid  manner.  This  board  is  chiefly  made  up  of  European 
physicians,  who  have  long  been  established  in  the  country. 
In  order  to  prevent  any  from  practising  who  have  not  re- 
ceived a  license  from  the  board,  apothecaries  are  prohibited, 
under  severe  penalties,  from  compounding  their  prescriptions. 
Apothecaries  study  pharmacy  and  chemistry  for  three  years, 
and  undergo  a  practical  examination  before  they  arc  allowed 
to  open  a  shop.  In  this  way  quackery  is  effectually  put  down, 
and  medicine  is  fast  gaining  rank  and  consideration  amongst 
the  people.  Several  of  the  best  families  are  now  educating 
their  children  for  "  the  healing  art."  It  is  to  be  regretted,  that 
some  similar  plan  cannot  be  adopted  in  the  United  States,  to 
free  the  country  from  the  numerous  charlatans  who  tamper 
with  the  health  and  lives  of  our  citizens. 

Physicians  receive  a  fee  of  four  reals,  equal  to  fifty  cents, 
paid  at  each  visit ;  and  in  consultations,  which  are  frequent, 
four  dollars.  I  am  informed  that  one  or  two  practitioners,  in 
extensive  practice,  wear  leather  pockets,  because  the  angular 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  143 

pieces  of  silver  soon  cut  out  those  made  of  cloth.  Instances  of 
generosity  towards  medical  men  are  not  rare — I  have  heard  of 
a  pair  of  horses  being  presented  in  one  case,  and  two  hundred 
dollars  in  another. 

The  Chilians  possess  generous  feelings  in  many  respects. 
The  moneys  raised  by  subscription  for  charitable  purposes, 
such  as  the  relief  of  a  widow  or  an  orphan,  amount  to  con- 
siderable sums.  I  have  before  me  a  list  of  persons,  who  have 
subscribed,  in  a  few  days,  more  than  two  thousand  dollars,  for 
the  relief  of  widows  whose  husbands  fell  in  one  of  those  petty 
revolutions  which  have  so  frequently  disturbed  the  quiet  of 
the  country. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Visit  Colina — Law  of  primogeniture — A  senator — A  family  dinner — Face  of 
the  country — Ploughing1 — Sowing — Baths — Friar  of  San  Felipe — Don  Jose 
— Return  to  Valparaiso — Storm  on  the  road. 

On  the  10th  of  July,  1832,  I  left  Santiago  for  Colina,  situ- 
ated close  under  the  Andes,  about  seven  leagues  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Chilian  capital.  It  is  a  scattering  village  or  town- 
ship, having  a  small  chapel  and  a  few  ranchos  (huts)  around  it, 
encircled  by  the  great  chain  of  the  Cordilleras,  and  their  moun- 
tain spurs.  The  curate  is  one  of  the  most  important  personages 
in  the  place ;  he  is  conversable,  fond  of  an  "  hoja,"  a  glass  of 
wine,  or  brandy  and  water,  and  a  half  hour's  chat  of  a  morning. 
The  neighborhood  is  made  up  of  several  "  chdcras,"  or  small 
farms,  and  one  or  two  "  haciendas,"  or  estates  of  great  extent ; 
that  on  which  I  sojourned,  contained  fifty  square  miles,  and 
yielded  twenty-five  thousand  dollars  worth  of  wheat  annually. 
These  "haciendas"  have  been  very  much  in  the  way  of  the 
advancement  of  this  country,  for  the  Spanish  law,  preserving 


144  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

them  entire,  placed  all  the  real  property  in  the  hands  of  a  few 
individuals,  and  caused  it  to  descend  from  father  to  the  eldest 
son,  ad  infinitum.  However  necessary  the  law  of  primogeni- 
ture may  be  to  monarchical  governments,  for  preserving  an 
aristocracy,  it  is  certainly  unsuited  to  a  republic;  and  for  that 
reason,  the  "  mayorazgo,"  or  eldership,  is  now  done  away 
with,  except  in  the  cases  of  eldest  sons  born  before  the  repeal 
of  the  law  by  the  Chilian  congress.  The  proprietors  of  these 
estates  are  petty  princes  in  the  land,  who  have  depending  upon 
them  from  three  to  five  hundred  poor  families.  Desiring  only 
to  be  left  to  the  quiet  enjoyment  of  their  farms,  they  seldom 
care  for  or  engage  actively  in  public  affairs.  The  lord  of  the 
estate  where  I  was,  is  a  senator,  and  though  his  country  resi- 
dence is  but  twenty  miles  from  the  capital,  he  has  not  been 
more  than  three  times  in  his  seat  during  the  present  session. 
Yet  he  owns  one  of  the  finest  houses  in  town,  and  says  he  will 
not  go  to  the  senate  unless  sent  for.  "  Para  que  Amigo  !  Why 
should  I,  friend,  there  are  enough  there  without  me !"  Don 
Vicente,  as  he  is  named,  leads  the  life  of  a  prince.  He  rises 
at  nine,  breakfasts  at  ten,  saunters  in  a  small  flower  garden 
with  a  cigar,  laughs  for  a  half  hour  over  Don  Quixote,  of  which 
he  has  a  beautiful  edition  ;  and  by  an  occasional  ride,  or  a  game 
at  chess  with  the  curate,  a  sly  joke  or  bon  mot  with  some  of 
the  ladies,  he  manages  to  get  through  the  day  till  three  o'clock, 
when  he  dines.  After  dinner,  which  occupies  about  two  hours, 
when  alone,  he  smokes  and  dozes  away  the  afternoon  and  even- 
ing, till  ten  o'clock,  at  which  time  he  sups  heartily,  and  retires 
to  bed  about  twelve.  Almost  every  night,  however,  the  curate 
engages  him  at  chess  or  cards,  and  between  the  two,  the  ladies 
are  kept  laughing  the  whole  evening.  It  is  hardly  necessary 
to  say  that  Don  Vicente  is  a  short,  corpulent,  good  humored 
gentleman — afac  sirtiile  of  Sancho  Panza  in  person,  whom  he 
admires  with  all  his  heart.  He  loves  his  family,  is  just  and 
charitable  to  his  dependants,  and  does  not  care  the  snap  of  a 
finger  for  any  body  beyond  them.  Nor  does  he  wish  to  receive 
a  line  from  any  body,  no  matter  what  the  intimacy  may  havo 
been.  "  If  I  hear  of  their  prosperity,"  says  he,  "  I  am  glad  ; 
if  they  are  unfortunate,  I  am  sorry, — '  Que  mas  !  y  amigo,  pa- 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  145 

ra  que  molestdrme  con  sus  cartas.'  What  more — and  my  friend, 
why  should  they  trouble  me  with  their  letters !" 

In  the  neighborhood  there  is  another  gentleman,  less 
wealthy,  and  of  a  more  ordinary  stamp  than  the  senator,  being 
shrewd  but  uneducated ;  that  is,  he  lives  without  recurring  to 
books  for  society  or  conversation.  Don  Ambrosio  is  a  great 
rough  figure,  six  feet  high,  with  a  roguish  blue  eye  and  curly 
hair,  and  perhaps  forty-five  years  of  age.  He  has  a  second 
wife,  a  son,  and  thirteen  daughters,  four  of  whom  are  marriage- 
able. 

About  twelve  o'clock  on  the  second  day  of  my  arrival  at 
Colina,  Don  Ambrosio  came  in,  dressed,  as  is  usual  with 
country  gentlemen  riding  about  their  estates,  in  a  poncho,  botas 
and  spurs.  After  seating  himself,  he  commenced  conversation 
with  me,  by  saying  several  "good  things,"  and  some  piquant 
phrases  of  double  meaning,  by  way  of  ascertaining,  as  he  after- 
wards confessed,  what  my  knowledge  of  Spanish  might  be.  Pre- 
sently some  glasses,  wine,  brandy,  &c.  were  placed  on  the  table, 
and  Don  Ambrosio  was  invited  to  drink.  "Bueno — vamos,  un 
traguito. "  Agreed,  let  us  take  a  small  glass.  When  prepared, 
he  looked  at  it,  and  said,  holding  the  glass  between  his  eye  and 
the  light,  "Pues,  Senores,  no  tengo  sed ;  tengo  buena  apeten- 
cia;  tengo  buena  salud ;  duermo  bien,  como  bien,  mi  muger  no 
se  queja; — ^y  para  que  lo  tomare? — no  quiero  tomarlo — " 
"Well,  gentlemen,  I  am  not  thirsty;  I  have  a  good  appetite; 
my  health  is  good ;  I  sleep  well,  I  eat  well,  my  wife  does  not 
complain;  and  why  shall  I  take  it?  I  will  not" — and  he  put 
down  the  glass,  and  pushed  it  away  without  tasting. 

While  out  in  the  fields  shooting,  the  next  day  after  his  visit, 
I  met  Don  Ambrosio  on  horseback.  He  dismounted  and  car- 
ried me  off  to  his  "oliv&r"  or  olive  grove,  to  shoot  wild  pigeons, 
which  were  numerous,  and  afterwards  insisted  upon  my  "doing 
penance  with  him,"  as  the  phrase  is,  that  is,  dining  with  him. 

The  table  was  spread  in  the  Spanish  style,  with  covers  for 
sixteen  persons,  and  as  many  high  backed  chairs  placed  round 
it.  About  three  o'clock  we  were  seated,  Don  Ambrosio  at  the 
head,  his  wife  on  the  left,  and  I  on  his  right,  while  the  thir- 
teen daughters  took  their  places,  according  to  age,  right  and 
19 


146  in  14 j; l:  ykaks  ijn  the  pacific. 

left,  the  youngest  being  at  the  foot.     The  son  was  absent. 
The  dinner  was  served  up  on  silver,  dish  after  dish,  to  the 
number  of  thirteen,  commencing  with  soup,  and  ending  with 
roast  beef.     The  intermediate  dishes  were  all  compounded, 
or  made  in  the  form  of  hashes,  stews,  &c.    Besides  the  wine 
of  the  country,  and  "  chicha,"  there  was  very  excellent  claret 
The  desert,   consisting  of    pudding,  sweetmeats,  and    fruit, 
was  succeeded  by  a  large  silver  basin  of  water,  and  a  towel, 
into   which    each  one   dipped  the   ends  of  her  fingers,  wet 
and  wiped  her  lips,  and  then  pushed  it  on  to  the  next.   As  the 
fingers  frequently  supply  the  place  of  forks  during  the  repast, 
this  practice  is  certainly  necessary  and  commendable.   Before 
beginning  to  eat,  Don  Ambrosio,  in  a  reverent  manner,  invoked 
a  blessing,  and  after  the  meal,  returned  thanks,  which  was  the 
signal  for  the  younger  children  to  retire. 

Don  Ambrosio  and  his  lady  were  lively,  and,  it  is  hardly 
necessary  to  add,  polite,  for  all  the  natives,  from  the  president 
to  the  beggar,  are  so.  During  dinner,  he  asked  me  which  one 
of  his  daughters  I  thought  handsomest ;  even  if  they  had  not 
been  present,  it  was  a  question  not  easy  to  answer,  and  I  there- 
fore requested  to  be  allowed  to  withhold  my  decision  till  I  had 
become  better  acquainted.  Four  of  them  were  from  fifteen  to 
nineteen  years  of  age,  and  one  was  to  be  married  in  a  few 
weeks.  After  dinner,  my  hospitable  host  gave  me  a  cigar,  and 
begged  to  be  excused,  while  he  should  give  directions  to  some 
workmen  who  were  employed  on  the  estate,  adding,  "when 
I  am  present  the  girls  are  as  quiet  as  lambs,  but  let  me  be  out 
of  sight,  and  they  are  more  noisy  than  so  many  chattering  par- 
rots. If  you  are  afraid  of  them,  I  will  carry  you  with  me ;  but 
I  dare  say  you  will  find  them  musical,  and  if  they  wont  sing 
and  play,  my  wife  will,  and  they  shall  dance  for  you.  Adios 
— dont  make  love  to  more  than  two  of  them  at  a  time." 

So  soon  as  he  had  disappeared,  I  found  the  young  ladies  very 
entertaining,  and  every  tiling  a  father  could  wish  ;  they  played, 
sang,  and  chatted  until  tea  and  "mate"  were  brought,  and 
Don  Ambrosio  returned.  The  evening  passed  pleasantly,  and 
about  nine  o'clock,  (though  the  distance  was  not  more  than  a 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  147 

quarter  of  a  mile,)  I  returned  home  on  horseback,  attended  by 
a  servant. 

The  hospitality  and  kindness  of  the  Chilians  towards  stran- 
gers, cannot  be  exceeded  (if  equalled)  in  any  part  of  the  world. 
Yet  it  is  difficult  for  a  stranger  to  form  a  correct  estimate  of  the 
national  character.  A  friend  of  more  than  ordinary  intelligence 
and  observation,  who  has  resided  several  years  in  Chile,  speak- 
ing of  the  native  character,  says,  "  they  are  a  fickle  race ;  their 
affections  lie  altogether  on  the  surface;  their  feelings  are  not 
deep  seated,  and  of  course  cannot  be  permanent;  they  are  easi- 
ly excited,  and  as  readily  become  indifferent."  But  such  is  the 
influence  of  the  climate,  and  other  circumstances,  that  he  thinks 
few  young  Americans  would  live  willingly  in  the  United  States, 
after  spending  three  years  in  Santiago.  There  is  certainly  a 
charm  about  Chile  that  few  foreigners  can  resist — indeed  it  is 
a  proverb,  for  which  there  are  abundant  data,  that  all  persons 
who  visit  the  country  once,  will  do  so  a  second  time. 

The  face  of  the  country  around  Colina  is  overgrown  by 
several  kinds  of  thorn  trees,  amongst  which  the  algarrobo  or 
carrob  stands  conspicuous.  It  bears  a  bean,  which,  when  used 
medicinally  in  an  infusion,  is  said  to  be  a  very  powerful  aphro- 
disiac. The  tree  grows  to  the  size  of  a  common  peach ;  the 
fruit  is  used  for  feeding  animals,  and  the  wood  for  fuel.  The 
11  espinos"  or  thorn  bushes  overgrow  wheat  fields  and  pasture 
grounds,  and  are  always  cut  even  with  the  soil  at  the  time  of 
ploughing  and  sowing,  which  take  place  after  the  first  rain  in 
the  month  of  June.  On  a  large  hacienda,  this  operation  pre- 
sents an  interesting  and  animated  scene.  1  saw  a  hundred  and 
sixteen  pairs  of  oxen  and  as  many  ploughs*  working  at  the 
same  time.  They  were  marched  and  countermarched  like 
troops  of  soldiers.  Each  ox  had  its  name,  and  each  ploughman 
was  shouting  and  goading  at  the  same  time,  presenting  a  spec- 
tacle not  easily  described.  Like  every  thing  in  Chile,  the  ope- 
ration of  sowing  wheat  is  performed  on  horseback.  The  sower 
carries  before  him,  on  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  a  quantity  of 


*  The  plough  is  a  simple  spike,  not  differing  materially  from  that  of  the  an- 
cient Romans. 


148  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

seed  in  his  poncho,  which  he  holds  with  one  hand,  while  with 
the  other  he  scatters  it  over  the  ground  as  the  horse  walks 
along. 

As  the  rains  are  not  always  sufficiently  copious,  the  fields 
are  irrigated  by  "acequias"  or  shallow  gutters,  running  in 
every  direction  through  them.  Every  estate  requiring  water, 
which  is  scarce,  pays  a  rent  or  tax  to  have  it  at  stated  periods 
after  the  grain  is  sown,  until  it  becomes  ripe  enough  to  har- 
vest   The  water  is  derived  solely  from  mountain  streams. 

The  scenery  around  Colina  is  of  the  grandest  character.  The 
Cordilleras,  ever  robed  in  snow,  stand  close  at  hand,  and  send 
offspurs  two  or  three  thousand  feet  in  height  in  every  direc- 
tion. In  the  winter  the  atmosphere  is  clear,  the  sky  is  of  the 
purest  azure,  and  the  stars  cannot  be  more  brilliant  in  any  part 
of  the  world.  When  the  moon  shines  on  the  cold  mountain 
snows,  and  all  is  hushed  in  silence,  except  the  occasional  wild 
shriek  of  the  quiltregui,*  the  scene  is  truly  sublime,  requiring 
all  the  warmth  of  poetic  description  to  portray  it  to  the  ima- 
gination of  those  who  have  not  seen  it. 

Colina  is  celebrated  in  Chile  for  the  thermal  springs  in  the 
neighborhood,  which  are  visited  by  invalids  and  valetudina- 
rians from  all  points,  to  drink  and  bathe  in  their  waters.  No 
accurate  analysis  has  yet  been  made  of  them ;  they  are  said  to 
contain  both  antimony  and  sulphur. 

One  morning  while  at  breakfast,  a  friar  from  San  Felipe,  a 
small  town  to  the  northward,  called  at  our  house,  and  desired 
permission  to  visit  a  mill  on  the  premises.  When  we  saw  him 
at  the  door,  I  thought  he  might  be  a  true  copy  of  the  renowned 
friar  Tuck,  for,  besides  a  short  rotund  figure,  he  had  a  swag- 
gering air,  wore  a  gay  poncho,  botas,  a  straw  hat,  secured  by 
a  black  cord  knotted  on  one  side  of  the  face,  having  tassels 
five  or  six  inches  long  swinging  below  the  chin.  His  counte- 
nance was  calm,  but  it  was  the  calmness  of  determined  courage, 


•  The  quiltregui  is  a  species  of  horned  plover,  which  frequents  near  habi- 
tations ;  at  night  it  shrieks  in  the  most  melancholy  manner  at  the  approach  of 
any  one,  or  on  hearing  any  unusual  sound.  For  this  reason,  they  arc  cherished 
by  the  farmers,  who  value  them  as  if  they  were  so  many  dogs. 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  149 

and  not  that  of  the  meekness  of  religion.  He  rode  a  stout  black 
horse,  with  a  valise  on  his  back,  and  at  the  saddle  bow  a  long 
double  barrelled  Spanish  fowling  piece  with  brass  mountings, 
the  whole  so  highly  polished,  even  to  the  barrels,  that  it  would 
have  done  credit  to  a  marine  serjeant,  and  pleased  the  eye  of 
the  most  rigid  martinet.  Like  his  prototype,  our  friar  Tuck 
was  fond  of  "creature  comforts,"  and  occasionally  indulged 
his  "  inward  man  ;"  for,  after  telling  us  of  the  fatigue  of  riding 
over  bad  roads,  feeble  health  from  vigils  and  fasting,  he  beg- 
ged, as  a  particular  favor,  that  we  would  replenish  his  bottle 
with  gin,  which  somehow  or  other  had  been  emptied  on  the 
way.  His  bottle  was  filled,  after  he  had  tasted  of  the  quality 
of  the  liquor,  of  which  he  said,  "viene  bien  al  paladdr" — it  falls 
well  on  the  palate — as  he  smacked  his  lips.  Having  lighted  a 
cigar,  he  threw  himself  agilely  into  the  saddle,  saying  as  he 
cantered  off,  "  Dios  le  pague!" — may  God  reward  you. 

Amongst  our  visiters  was  an  "old"  Spaniard  named  Don 
Jose,  who  was  noted  for  story  telling  and  amiability.  He  fre- 
quently lamented  the  change  in  times  and  civilization.  "In 
my  memory,"  he  was  wont  to  say,  "  ladies  required  a  long 
training  before  they  were  admitted  into  society ;  but  now,  they 
catch  a  young  girl  who  is  frisking  and  playing  with  her  doll, 
wash  and  dress  her  clean,  send  her  to  school,  where  she  is 
taught  to  read  and  write,  and  repeat  the  multiplication  table, 
and  at  the  end  of  three  weeks  she  is  broken  into  an  accom- 
plished miss,  ('  Dona  graciosa'),  capable  of  getting  through  a 
tune  on  the  piano,  and  aufait  in  all  the  small  talk  of  the  day!" 
Female  perception  is  wonderfully  quick  in  Chile  ! 

In  spite  of  the  diversion  of  killing  pigeons,  hunting  condors, 
witnessing  the  making  of  "tapias"  or  mud  walls,  examining 
the  dry  and  the  green  hedges,  and  observing  men  in  retire- 
ment, a  month  saw  me  dying  with  ennui,  and  consequently 
on  my  way  to  Valdivia's  city ;  and  in  a  few  days,  I  set  out  on 
my  return  to  Valparaiso. 

My  compagnon  de  voyage,  was  an  elderly  Chileno,  who 
amused  me  the  whole  way  by  telling  stories,  and  pointing  out 
spots  where  murder  had  been  committed,  marked  by  rude 
wooden  crosses,  some  of  them  of  lath  : — 


150  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"  And  here  and  there,  as  up  the  crag  you  spring, 
Mark  many  rude  carved  crosses  near  the  path  ; 
Yet  deem  not  these  Devotion's  offering — 
These  are  frail  memorials  of  murderous  wrath  ; 
For  whcrcsoe'er  the  shrieking  victim  hath 
Poured  forth  his  blood  beneath  the  assassin's  knife, 
Some  hand  erects  a  cross  of  mouldering  lath  ; 
And  grove  and  glen  with  thousand  such  are  rife, 
Throughout  this  purple  land,  where  law  secures  not  life." 

At  present,  however,  murders  are  rare,  and  the  road  may  be 
travelled  at  all  hours  without  molestation. 

We  left  the  city  at  one  o'clock  P.  M.,  and  were  unfortunate 
in  being  overtaken  by  rain  before  we  reached  the  Caj&n  de 
Zap&ta,  where  we  bivouacked  for  the  night.  The  rain  poured 
in  torrents,  and  the  miserable  inn  did  not  possess  a  single 
sleeping  room  that  was  not  permeated  by  water.  Yet  we  con- 
trived to  make  the  best  of  it.  Our  host  was  a  merry  son  of 
Spain,  with  slender  legs,  cased  in  green  corduroy  unmentiona- 
bles, secured  at  the  knee  with  silver  buttons,  and  his  wife  was 
a  stirring,  gay  Chilena,  of  about  twenty  years  old.  She  soon 
procured  us  a  fine  hot  supper,  of  roasted  lamb  and  eggs,  with 
a  casuelo  and  tea.  After  it  was  discussed,  we  were  invited  to 
the  private  apartment  of  our  landlady,  where  we  found  three 
or  four  young  women  of  the  neighborhood,  and  as  many 
young  countrymen  in  their  ponchos,  chatting,  and  smoking 
"hojas."  The  guitar  was  brought  from  its  corner,  a  bottle  of 
"  aguardiente,"  and  glasses,  with  a  large  gourd  of  "chicha," 
were  placed  on  a  chair ;  and  we  were  amused  with  singing, 
dancing  fandangos,  and  drinking,  till  past  midnigbt,  when  we 
retired,  but  not  to  sleep,  for  scarcely  could  we  get  into  a  doze, 
before  a  malicious  stream  of  water  would  find  its  way  through 
the  thatch,  and  trickle  into  the  bed,  or  a  wanton  flea,  in  pur- 
suit of  blood,  would  rouse  us  from  our  slumber.  About  two  in 
the  morning,  a  carreta,  with  a  family  of  ladies,  arrived  from 
Valparaiso,  completely  drenched  in  the  storm.  The  house 
was  all  in  a  bustle,  and  we  forgot  our  own  miseries  in  listen- 
ing to  the  expressions  of  commiseration  for  the  plight  of  the 
newly  arrived,  by  our  kind  hearted  hostess — "  Pobrecftas 
mojadas  hasta  el  pellejo  estan  !" — "poor  things,  they  are  wet 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  151 

to  the  skin. "  By  the  time  the  party  was  arrayed  in  dry  clothes, 
and  seated  at  a  hot  meal,  savory  of  garlic,  to  prevent  taking 
cold,  day  broke,  and  the  rain  had  abated  so  much,  that  we  set 
forward  in  hopes  of  crossing  the  cuesta  before  the  storm  should 
again  commence.  Scarcely  had  we  reached  the  plain,  in  the 
midst  of  which  stands  Casablanca,  when  the  rain  fell  in  such 
torrents  that  the  road  was  flooded,  and  objects  could  not  be 
distinguished  two  hundred  yards  ahead.  Yet  we  kept  on.  The 
capauiz  and  the  "peones"  urging  on  the  animals,  and  cheer- 
ing themselves  with  the  anticipations  of  a  hot  breakfast,  a 
gourd  of  "chicha,"  and  a  quiet  nap  at  Casablanca,  before 
again  setting  off.  And  they  were  not  disappointed,  for  Fe- 
roni  outdid  himself;  not  only  was  the  excellent  breakfast 
quickly  provided,  but  our  rooms  were  warmed  with  well 
burned  charcoal,  which  is  a  luxury  in  Chile,  after  riding  twenty 
miles  on  a  cold  July  morning ! 

About  two-o'clock,  being  refreshed  with  sleep,  though  it 
still  rained,  we  again  mounted  our  gig,  and  lashed  away  for 
the  Port.  The  plains  near  Penuelas  were  drowned  in  water, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  navigate  in  our  vehicle  very  carefully, 
lest  we  should  get  off  the  road  into  some  hole  or  water  course 
formed  during  the  storm.  To  prevent  all  accident,  a  "peon" 
went  ahead  to  sound,  for  we  were  riding  through  a  vast  lake 
of  muddy  water,  about  a  foot  deep.  By  care  we  arrived  safely 
at  the  post  house,  and  after  baiting,  kept  on.  By  this  time  the 
rain  had  ceased,  the  clouds  began  to  clear,  and  when  we  de- 
scended the  Alto  de  Valparaiso  into  the  town,  the  moon  beams 
were  glittering  on  the  placid  surface  of  the  bay,  and  the  sky 
presented  its  characteristic  azure  expanse,  studded  with  myriads 
of  meteor-like  stars. 


152  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Coquimbo  bay — La   Serena — Salute — Balsas — The  Port — Commerce — Con- 
dors— The  City — Distress  by  drought — Society — Trade. 

We  anchored  about  four  o'clock  P.  M.,  on  the  1st  of  Sep- 
tember, in  the  bay  of  Coquimbo,  after  twenty-eight  hours  run 
from  Valparaiso.  During  the  passage,  the  wind  blew  very 
fresh,  and  the  sea  was  short  and  irregular,  rendering  the  ves- 
sel's motion  extremely  uncomfortable.  At  this  season  the 
strong  south  winds  are  not  so  frequent  as  at  other  times  of 
the  year  ;  calms  and  light  northwardly  airs  are  much  more 
common. 

Coquimbo  bay,  like  that  of  Valparaiso,  is  an  indentation  of 
the  coast,  better  protected,  however,  from  the  prevailing 
winds  ;  like  that  bay  too,  it  opens  to  the  northward,  and  the 
southern  cape  extends  so  far  seaward,  that  vessels  may  lie  com- 
pletely land-locked,  and  out  of  all  danger,  even  during  the 
severest  weather.  Its  beach,  which  bounds  a  most  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  sweeps  round  for  about  twenty-five  miles. 
Vessels  may  securely  careen  and  repair  in  this  spot,  at  every 
season  of  the  year.  The  greatest  objection  to  this  port  is  the 
difficulty  of  obtaining  fresh  water ;  even  that  for  the  use  of  the 
inhabitants  is  brought  a  league  in  kegs  and  skins.  Water  for 
domestic  purposes  forms  a  considerable  item  in  the  expenses 
of  a  household. 

The  bay  is  surrounded  by  high  ranges  of  mountains,  which 
increase  in  height  as  they  recede  from  the  coast,  till  the  view 
is  closed  by  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  main  Cordillera,  which  ap- 
pear through  the  valleys  and  quebrddas  running  to  the  sea.  At 
present  they  are  naked  and  inhospitable  to  appearance,  but  in 
rainy  years,  they  are  clothed  in  verdure.  In  the  vicinity, 
there  is  a  great  quantity  of  shell  formation,  and  I  am  told  by 
an  intelligent  friend,  that  the  hills  are  covered  with  shells, 
many  of  which  are  not  found  in  the  bays  of  the  coast. 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  153 

Don  Pedro  Valdivia  founded  this  place  in  1544,  thinking 
that  it  might  be  a  good  retreat,  in  the  passage  from  Chile  to 
Peru,  and  called  it  after  his  native  place,  La  Serena — The  Se- 
rene. 

Formerly  this  port  was  a  common  resort  for  whale  ships, 
but  they  have  lately  abandoned  it,  in  consequence  of  being 
too  closely  watched  by  the  revenue  officers,  and  from  being 
forbid  to  boil  out  their  oil  in  the  bay,  and  cast  the  carcass  of 
the  fish  upon  the  shore,  as  they  were  in  the  habit  of  doing.  It 
requires  no  stretch  of  imagination  to  fancy  the  offensiveness 
of  the  air  in  the  vicinity  of  such  huge  masses  of  animal  matter 
in  a  state  of  putrefaction.  But  they  did  not  remain  long  ;  buz- 
zards, condors,  and  other  carrion  birds  soon  stript  the  bones 
and  left  them  to  bleach  upon  the  shore ;  and  from  the  great 
number  of  them  strewed  along  the  road,  and  employed  in  the 
structure  of  small  bridges,  we  may  form  some  idea  of  the  many 
whales  which  have  been  killed  here.  Besides  the  whales, 
which  it  is  by  no  means  uncommon  to  see,  the  bay  affords  a 
variety  of  fine  fish,  clams,  and  scallops,  which  last  are  not 
found  at  Valparaiso,  only  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  to  the 
south. 

Immediately  after  our  arrival,  as  is  customary,  the  captain 
of  the  port  paid  his  visit ;  and  declined  the  compliment  of  a 
salute,  on  the  score  that  the  guns  of  the  forts  had  been  thrown 
down  in  the  revolution  of  1S29,  and  had  not  been  restored. 
"  In  fact,"  said  he,  "  we  are  now  without  defence ;  the  smallest 
force  would  take  the  place ;  there  is  not  even  a  bayonet,  much 
less  a  soldier,  in  the  garrison." 

Some  years  since,  the  commander  of  one  of  our  ships  of  war 
offered  to  salute  the  town,  on  the  usual  condition  that  it  should 
be  returned  gun  for  gun.  The  authorities  replied,  they  would 
be  extremely  happy  to  do  so,  but  were  entirely  without  pow- 
der. The  commander  sent  on  shore  a  present  of  a  barrel  of 
cartridges.  The  ship  saluted.  The  fort  commenced  firing, 
and  continued  till  sunset ;  then  a  message  was  sent  on  board  to 
say,  "as  it  was  late,  they  would  fire  the  remainder  in  the 
morning !" 

Several  of  the  "  balsas"  of  the  bay  came  round  us  soon  after 
20 


154  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

anchoring.  A  "  balsa"  consists  of  two  seal  skins  (or  the  skins 
of  any  other  large  animals)  sewed  up  into  bags,  inflated  with 
air,  and  lashed  side  by  side  at  one  end,  while  at  the  other  they 
expand  like  a  pair  of  compasses.  At  the  small  end  or  prow  of 
this  primitive  vessel  sits  a  man  astride,  with  his  legs  in  the 
water,  who  propels  the  balsa  by  means  of  a  double  paddle, 
formed  at  each  extremity  like  an  oar  blade,  which  he  indus- 
triously plys,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other.  It  would 
be  no  very  monstrous  conceit  to  compare  him  to  some  mytho- 
logical being  riding  an  inhabitant  of  the  deep.  A  near  ap- 
proach, however,  would  at  once  undeceive  you  as  to  any  pre- 
tensions the  rider  might  have  in  your  imagination  to  godship, 
and  particularly  if  you  should  require  his  services  in  the  line 
of  his  business.  He  carries  messages,  catches  fish,  and  smug- 
gles silver  and  gold,  which  he  secures  in  a  leather  bag  under 
his  seat,  and  conveys  them  very  safely  on  board,  free  of  ex- 
port duty.  This  class  of  amphibia  on  the  whole  coast  is  famed 
for  its  honesty;  no  instance  of  fraud  being  on  record,  except 
where  custom  house  officers  are  concerned,  though  millions  in 
gold  and  silver  have  been  intrusted  to  their  conveyance.  Their 
mutual  quarrels  sometimes  give  rise  to  amusing  scenes.  It  is 
always  an  object,  when  they  meet,  to  cut  holes  in  each  other's 
"balsas;"  when  successful,  which  they  often  are  after  much 
manoeuvring  on  both  sides,  the  air  escapes,  and  the  discomfited 
wight,  left  with  only  a  flaccid  hide  for  his  support,  is  reduced 
to  the  necessity  of  swimming  for  his  life.  Not  unfrequently 
the  contest  ends  in  the  loss  of  both  vessels;  but  the  anger  of 
the  parties  is  completely  washed  away,  by  a  cold  bath  and  pro- 
tracted swim,  by  the  time  they  reach  the  shore  ! 

The  Port,  as  it  is  called  to  distinguish  it  from  the  City,  is  an 
assemblage  of  about  a  dozen  ranchos,  (small  huts),  as  many  "ra- 
madas,"  the  custom  house,  and  a  two  story  building,  erected  by 
one  of  those  enthusiastic,  ill  directed,  and  long  since  bankrupt, 
mining  associations  formed  in  England,  which  is  now  occupied 
by  the  captain  of  the  port.  A  "  ramada"  is  a  bivouac  (fre- 
quently for  life)  made  by  throwing  together  branches  of  trees 
and  bushes;  families  not  unfrequently  pass  their  whole  lives 
without  any  other  protection  from  the  noonday  sun,  the  night 


NOTICES  OF  CHILE.  155 

dews,  and  winter  rains,  than  is  incompletely  afforded  by  a 
«  ramada"  and  a  scanty  apparel.  A  convenient  place  for  land- 
ing and  embarking  is  formed  in  front  of  the  "Company's 
house"  by  a  pier  of  stones,  put  together  without  any  kind  of 
cement.  The  custom  house  is  a  long,  low  rancho,  which 
stands  between  the  town  and  pier. 

Not  a  single  English  merchant  vessel  has  visited  the  bay  for 
the  last  two  years  ;  American  ships  only  come  for  copper,  which 
is  carried  as  a  remittance  to  the  United  States  or  to  China. 
When  they  cannot  obtain  sufficient  at  Valparaiso,  they  take  in 
hides,  and  touch  at  Coquimbo,  and  fill  up  with  copper.  It  fre- 
quently happens  that  even  here  the  demand  of  China-bound 
vessels  cannot  be  supplied ;  in  which  case,  to  complete  their 
cargoes,  they  go  to  Huasco  and  Copiapo,  two  copper  ports  to 
leeward.  Some  ships  carry  away  from  six  to  eight  thousand 
quintals,*  which  are  bought  at  from  thirteen  to  seventeen  dol- 
lars each.  The  export  duty  is  one  dollar  per  quintal,  and  some 
municipal  charges,  amounting  to  seventeen  or  eighteen  cents. 
From  seventy  to  eighty  thousand  quintals  are  annually  shipped 
from  this  port. 

Besides  copper,  from  seventy  to  eighty  thousand  markst  of 

silver,  in  the  form  called  "plata  piiia,"  (worth  at  the  present 

price,  from  $ 490,000  to  §560,000,)   are  annually  carried  to 

Europe  in  British  men-of-war,  one  of  which  sails  every  four 

months  for  Rio  Janeiro  and  England.   The  amount  in  gold  Can- 
ts o 

not  be  estimated,  because  it  is  all  smuggled.    Silver  is  taxed 
with  a  duty  of  four  reales  (fifty  cents,)  the  mark. 

The  road  from  the  port  to  the  city,  runs  along  the  beach  for 
two  or  three  miles,  then  striking  to  the  right  over  some  sand 
hills,  passes  among  cultivated  fields  and  vegetable  gardens, 
which  are  irrigated  by  ac^quias  from  a  mountain  stream,  dig- 
nified by  the  name  of  Coquimbo  river,  laving  the  northern  side 
of  the  town.  This  part  of  the  road  is  called  La  Pampa ;  where- 
ever  a  water  course  traverses  it,  a  foot  bridge  (used  by  man 
and  beast)  is  formed  by  laying  two  ribs  of  a  whale  side  by  side ! 

*  A  Spanish  quintal  is  100  pounds  Avoirdupois. 
t  A  mark  is  eight  ounces  Avoirdupois. 


156  THREE   VEARS  IN   THE    PACIFIC. 

Just  before  turning  off  from  the  beach,  \vc  came  to  the  re- 
cent carcass  of  a  mule,  upon  which,  seven  large,  black  winged, 
ruflle  throated  condors,  and  a  crowd  of  buzzards,  were  feasting. 
They  allowed  us  to  approach  so  near,  that  had  we  been  pro- 
vided with  arms,  we  might  have  shot  them,  as  they  arose  slow- 
ly on  the  wing.  These  mammoths  of  the  air  frequently  destroy 
small  animals.  They  sometimes  form  a  circle  around  a  sheep 
or  goat,  and  spreading  out  their  wings,  approach  till  they  strike 
their  prey.  The  first  stroke  of  the  beak  is  aimed  at  the  eyes; 
if  the  animal  cry,  they  seize  the  tongue  with  their  talons,  and 
then  falling  upon  him,  devour  the  body,  even  to  the  bones.  In 
the  country  they  are  caught  in  the  following  manner.  A  pen 
is  formed  of  high  palisadoes  driven  into  the  ground,  and  a 
fresh  carcass  put  into  the  centre.  It  is  left  alone.  In  a  short 
time  the  condors,  who  scent  their  food  for  miles,  descend  into 
it,  and  while  feasting,  the  peones,  armed  with  clubs,  and  the 
body  and  limbs  well  protected  with  hide,  enter  the  enclosure, 
and  commence  the  work  of  destruction.  This  bird  cannot  rise 
without  running  thirty  or  forty  yards,  which  the  limits  of  the 
pen  will  not  allow,  and  they  are  clubbed  to  death,  not  however 
without  making  resistance,  and  occasionally  inflicting  very  se- 
vere wounds  upon  their  pursuers. 

The  entrance  to  Coquimbo,  or  La  Serena,  as  it  is  known 
and  spoken  of  in  all  public  documents,  is  through  an  "  adobe" 
gate,  which  indicates  that  it  was  once  surrounded  by  a  wall. 
The  appearance  is  unpromising.  The  streets,  which  intersect 
each  other  at  right  angles,  arc  of  moderate  width,  and  far  from 
being  clean.  On  one  corner  of  the  plaza  is  the  government 
house,  occupied  by  the  Intcndcnte  of  the  province.  There  is  a 
public  hospital  lately  established,  and  six  or  seven  churches. 
all  with  cupolas  or  belfries.  The  dwellings  arc  in  the  same 
style  as  those  of  Santiago,  presenting  a  white  front  wall,  with 
a  large  gate  studded  with  brass  or  copper  holt  heads.  Very 
few  houses  arc  of  two  stories ;  some  of  them  have  observatories 
on  the  top.  A  small  flower  garden  is  attached  to  each,  and 
from  this  cause  the  city  occupies  more  ground  than  manj 
places  of  three  limes  its  population,  which  does  nol  exceed  ten 
thousand. 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  157 

Several  of  the  fruits  which  grow  here  are  much  esteemed. 
The  Luciima  is  considered  a  great  delicacy  both  at  Valparaiso 
and  Santiago  ;  scarcely  a  vessel  leaves  this  port  without  hearing 
presents  of  this  fruit  to  both  of  those  cities.  The  next  best  in 
the  opinion  of  Chilians,  is  the  Cherimoya.  It  does  not  attain 
the  same  perfection  as  in  Lima;  in  fact  its  flavor  is  entirely 
different.  The  oranges  are  not  so  good  as  those  of  Valparaiso. 
Lemons  and  citrons  flourish.  The  apples  are  tasteless.  The 
gardens  are  filled  with  a  variety  of  flowers,  which  are  nursed 
and  cherished  by  the  ladies.  Bulbs  enjoy  a  large  share  of  at- 
tention ;  among  them  is  the  beautiful  Aiianuca,  which  is  indige- 
nous. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  town  is  a  high  hill,  and  upon  it 
is  erected  a  large  wooden  cross.  From  this  spot  one  may  en- 
joy a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  its  vicinity.  La  Serena  stands 
a  little  off  from  the  beach,  and  about  nine  miles  from  the  port, 
surrounded  by  hills  that  separate  it  from  an  extensive  plain, 
through  which  Coquimbo  river  wanders,  giving  fertility  where- 
ever  it  approaches.  This  vega  extends  to  the  very  base  of  the 
Andes,  and  is  roamed  over  by  numerous  herds  of  grazing  cat- 
tle. The  town  is  dotted  with  green  gardens,  and  surrounded 
by  cultivated  chacras  (small  farms,)  and  white  dwellings,  peep- 
ing from  amidst  green  foliage.  Three  whole  years  have  rolled 
away  without  a  fertilizing  shower.  The  province  is  parched, 
and  on  every  hand  the  rich  landholder  and  poor  muleteer  meet 
you  with  a  tale  of  distress.  The  produce  of  the  earth  is  with- 
held, and  the  pastures  are  burned.  The  flocks  and  herds  are 
perishing  every  where  throughout  the  province,  and  their  own- 
ers are  forced  to  see  them  die  without  being  able  to  prevent 
their  fate.  The  miner  in  vain  brings  to  the  surface  the  rich 
ores  from  the  bowels  of  the  earth.  There  is  no  water  to  assist 
him  in  the  extraction  of  the  metal ;  and  where  there  is,  the 
fuel  necessary  to  melt  it  into  bars,  is  scarce ;  it  is  with  difficul- 
ty that  mules  can  be  procured  to  transport  the  fruit  of  his  toil 
from  the  mines  to  the  coast.  Unless  the  skies  relent  in  show- 
ers, La  Serena,  and  its  gardens,  and  its  ch&cras,  must  soon  be 
blighted,  and  bare  as  the  surrounding  mountains  ! 

La  Serena  is  always  hushed  ;  the  most  death-like  stillness 


158  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

every  where  prevails,  and  it  is  seldom  broken,  except  by  the 
bell  of  the  leading  mule  of  the  troops  that  occasionally  file 
through  the  streets,  to  deposite  their  loads  of  copper  from  the 
mines.  Each  of  these  laborious  animals  brings  into  town  from 
four  to  six  quintals,  a  distance  of  ten  or  twelve  leagues. 
We  saw  one  troop  deposite  a  thousand  quintals.  The  peones 
who  accompanied  the  mules  were  remarkably  muscular  and 
well  proportioned,  and  handled  two  hundred  pounds  of  cop- 
per without  apparent  exertion.  In  addition  to  the  dress  worn 
by  the  same  class  at  Valparaiso,  these  men  had  red  caps  cut 
into  a  long  point  hanging  rakishly  in  front,  and  pieces  of 
sheep  skin  over  the  chest,  right  arm,  and  shoulder,  and  the 
sitting  part  of  their  ample  breeches  was  defended  by  a  broad 
disk  of  leather. 

At  present  there  is  no  society  among  the  natives  ;  even  the 
natural  vivacity  and  buoyancy  of  j'outh  seem  oppressed  by  the 
stillness  and  quiet  of  the  city.  There  are  no  tertulias,  no  re- 
uniones,  no  amusement,  no  hotels.  The  ladies  occupy  their 
time  in  domestic  affairs,  and  in  the  cultivation  of  flowers. 
Reading  is  not  among  their  pleasures.  They  possess  but  little 
beauty  ;  those  whom  I  saw  have  dark,  rough  skins  ;  but  they 
bear  evidence,  in  many  particulars,  of  the  healthiness  of  the 
climate. 

The  males,  when  free  from  their  avocations,  spend  what 
time  they  have  left  from  the  siesta,  in  playing  cards,  billiards, 
or  dice.  Smoking  is  universal,  but  is  entirely  confined  to 
"hojas." 

The  province  of  Coquimbo  abounds  in  mines  of  copper,  sil- 
ver, gold,  and  iron,  which  last  is  not  worked  on  account  of  the 
scarcity  of  fuel.  There  is  no  coal  in  the  province.  The  wood 
used  is  that  of  the  "espinos"  (thorns),  and  a  species  of  acacia, 
called  algarovilla,  which  is  considered  to  be  the  best.  It  bears 
a  fruit,  the  infusion  of  which  is  said  to  possess  the  rare  virtue 
of  restoring  lost  paternity  and  maternity — a  frequent  source 
of  complaint  in  many  parts  of  Chile. 

Cabinet  specimens  of  minerals  are  obtained  with  difficulty. 
Miners  seldom  make  collections,  and  it  is  only  through  their 
orders  that  they  can  be  procured,  because  none  but  proprietors 


NOTICES  OP  CHILE.  159 

are  allowed  to  sell  the  ores,  in  order  to  guard  against  pecula- 
tion by  the  laborers.  Silver  specimens  are  worth  from  ten  to 
twelve  dollars  the  pound,  and  gold  in  proportion. 

Not  long  since,  a  very  rich  silver  mine  was  discovered  near 
Copiapo,  from  which  "papas"  of  native  silver  are  sold  at  a 
price  very  little  below  that  of  the  native  metal.  A  single  spe- 
cimen was  purchased  the  other  day  in  La  Serena,  at  $207! 

I  am  told  that  the  dross  and  slag  formed  when  the  copper 
is  cast  into  pigs,  contain  sufficient  metal  to  yield  a  profit  by 
smelting  it  a  second  time. 

Nothing  is  imported  direct  from  abroad  to  Coquimbo,  but 
to  supply  the  demand  for  goods  used  in  the  province,  among 
which  are  large  cpuantities  of  American  domestics,  the  shop 
keepers  resort  once  or  twice  a  year  to  Santiago  or  Valparaiso. 
The  distance  from  the  former  city  is  travelled  by  the  mail  in 
from  seven  to  eight  days,  but  laden  mules  seldom  get  through 
the  journey  in  less  than  twenty. 


NOTICES    OF    BOLIVIA. 


21 


NOTICES    OF    BOLIVIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Bay   of  Mexillones — Cobija — Soil — Landing — Balsa — Town — Old   trees — 
Scarcity  of  water — Commerce — Visit  to  the  copper  mines — Cati'ca. 

We  sailed  on  the  5th  of  September  from  Coquimbo,  with  a 
northerly  breeze,  which  lasted  about  twenty-four  hours,  when 
the  usual  trade  commenced,  but  it  was  so  light  that  we  did  not 
reach  the  bay  of  Mexillones  till  late  in  the  evening  of  the 
ninth.  This  is  a  beautiful,  extensive,  and  deep  bay  ;  the  an- 
chorage is  close  in  to  the  shore,  and  so  smooth  that  it  offers 
some  advantages  to  ships  of  war  to  careen  and  paint,  as  their 
crews  may  be  put  on  shore  without  any  danger  from  desertion. 
The  nearest  town  or  habitation  is  the  port  of  Cobija,  more  than 
half  a  degree  to  the  north.  The  bay  opens  to  the  northward, 
and  is  surrounded  by  high  land,  as  barren  as  can  well  be  ima- 
gined. There  is  not  a  blade  of  grass,  nor  even  a  cactus  to  be 
seen  on  it.  Nor  is  there  a  drop  of  fresh  water  to  be  found 
within  many  leagues.  The  bay  has  been  frequently  examined, 
with  a  view  of  making  it  the  port  of  Bolivia,  but  the  idea  has 
been  as  frequently  abandoned,  from  the  want  of  water.  There 
is  a  small  stream  about  twenty  leagues  from  it,  which,  it  is 
said,  might  be  brought  here.  At  present,  the  only  inhabitants 
are  the  varieties  of  sea  birds,  pelicans,  gulls,  cormorants,  and 
condors,  and  the  only  regular  visiters  are  whales.  Occasionally 


164  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

a  vessel  anchors  here,  in  order  to  avoid  running  past  Cobija  in 
the  night,  when  they  gain  this  latitude  (23°  S. )  too  late  to 
reach  the  port  on  the  same  day.   This  was  our  own  case. 

On  the  morning  of  the  tenth  it  was  calm,  and  though  we 
fanned  out  of  Mexillones,  we  lay  off  Cobija  all  night,  and  did 
not  anchor  till  near  three  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  ele- 
venth. The  Port  of  Cobija  is  difficult  to  be  found  by  strangers. 
About  five  miles  to  the  southward,  are  two  low  white  rocks, 
which  are  the  only  land  marks  at  this  season  of  the  year,  when 
the  profile  of  the  mountains  of  the  coast  is  almost  constantly 
shrouded  in  fogs  or  clouds.  So  soon  as  a  vessel  is  descried 
from  the  fort,  a  white  flag  is  hoisted  on  the  point  as  a  mark, 
which  may  be  seen  ten  or  twelve  miles  at  sea. 

The  roadstead  of  Cobija  is  formed  by  a  short  low  point  of 
rough  jagged  rocks,  on  which  stand  the  flag-staff,  and  a  fortress 
mounting  six  long  guns.  The  anchorage,  though  secure,  and 
at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore,  is  not  good.  Vessels,  in 
"  heaving  up,"  frequently  part  their  cables,  or  break  their  an- 
chors. About  six  miles  to  the  northward  is  another  rocky 
point,  behind  which,  vessels  that  load  with  copper  ore  from 
the  neighboring  mine,  lie,  though  not  very  comfortably.  This 
spot  is  called  Catica. 

Near  the  first  point  is  the  town,  built  upon  the  falda  or  lap 
of  the  hills,  or,  we  would  say,  mountains,  which  rise  abruptly 
to  a  height  of  between  three  and  four  thousand  feet,  barren, 
cheerless,  and  naked,  except  in  the  region  of  the  clouds,  where 
a  few  blades  of  grass  have  struggled  through  the  soil,  nourish- 
ed by  the  dews  of  winter.  The  trees  of  cactus  grow  larger 
than  any  I  have  before  seen.  Even  these  patches  of  green  fade 
and  are  burnt  up  in  the  summer  under  a  tropical  sun.  The  co- 
lor of  the  mountains  is  variegated  in  spots  of  reddish,  greenish, 
and  whitish  earth,  with  stria?  running  down  the  sides,  looking 
like  the  beds  of  little  cascades,  or  streams  formed  by  heavy 
rains  :  the  captain  of  the  port  informs  me,  however,  that 
showers  are  unknown,  and  the  only  rain  is  a  heavy  mist  like 
the  "llovisna,"  or  drizzle  of  Lima — and  even  this  is  absent 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  The  lap  of  the  hills,  which 
extends  from  their  base  to  the  sea,  not  exceeding  half  a  mile 


NOTICES  OF  BOLIVIA.  165 

in  breadth,  appears  to  be  formed  by  the  accumulation  of  earth 
and  stones,  washed  and  rolled  down  in  the  course  of  time  ; 
and  a  walk  on  shore  corroborated  this  opinion.  Along  the 
street  we  saw  several  shelving  strata,  formed  of  large  pebbles 
of  a  greenish  color,  bedded  in  a  cement  of  dry  earth,  resem- 
bling a  mammoth  puddingstone  formation.  The  rocks  about 
the  place  are  hard,  dark,  green-stone,  and  every  where  bear 
marks  of  having  been  worn  smooth  on  their  angles  by  the  sea. 
In  fact,  towards  Catica,  there  is  a  kind  of  natural  wall,  some 
two  hundred  feet  high,  that  has  evidently  been  under  water 
at  some  remote  period.  Fancy  a  stiff  mud  or  ooze,  worked  up 
with  shells  and  pebbles  of  every  size,  and  then  left  to  dry,  and 
you  will  get  an  idea  of  this  bank  or  wall.  Another  curious 
formation  in  the  neighborhood,  is  of  very  small  shells,  which 
when  carelessly  examined  presents  a  texture  similar  to  a  coarse 
flag  stone,  but  a  nearer  inspection  shows  you  the  minute  shells, 
some  of  which  are  sufficiently  perfect  to  be  very  readily  class- 
ed. The  metallurgist  at  Catica  stated  that  this  formation  was  a 
phosphate  of  lime,  and  that  square  slabs  of  it  were  used  for 
the  flooring  of  their  furnaces,  and  also  ground  fine,  and  mixed 
with  mud  or  clay,  to  form  fire  bricks. 

The  landing  is  effected  by  pulling  through  a  belt  of  kelp, 
which  lines  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  through  a  narrow  chan- 
nel, between  some  low  black  rocks,  into  a  smooth  little  basin, 
where  the  boat  is  drawn  up  on  the  sand  beach.  So  soon  as 
we  stepped  ashore,  our  attention  was  drawn  to  a  fisherman, 
who  was  filling  his  balsa  with  air.  He  was  a  short,  square 
built  Indian,  pretty  well  advanced  in  life,  with  long  locks  of 
black  and  gray  hair  hanging  straight  from  under  a  low-crown- 
ed narrow-rimmed  straw  hat,  rather  worse  for  wear.  He  wore 
a  short  jacket  and  still  shorter  trovvsers  of  old  blue  cloth,  and 
the  particolored  remains  of  a  poncho  girded  his  loins.  A 
dark  copper  colored  skin  covered  his  face  and  neck,  and 
though  far  from  being  embonpoint,  as  Bolivians  generally 
are,  he  might  be  called  muscular.  His  nose  was  flattened  and 
pinched  in,  just  as  it  joined  the  os  frontis,  but  it  did  not  pre- 
sent the  African  flatness ;  and  the  angle  of  his  face  was  that 
common  to  the  Caucasian  or  European  race.     His  eyes  were 


166  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

small,  black,  and  widely  separated  from  each  other,  and  though 
he  did  not  squint,  their  axes  seemed  to  incline  very  much  to- 
wards each  other.  Add  high  cheek  bones  and  a  regular  turn 
to  the  figure,  and  you  may  form  some  idea  of  a  Bolivian — at  least 
such  is  the  general  appearance  of  those  I  have  met.  There  is, 
however,  nothing  fierce  about  them  ;  but  on  the  contrary,  there 
is  a  pleasant,  good  humored  convivial  expression  which  speaks 
in  their  favor.  This  worthy  fisherman  was  resting  on  one  knee 
beside  his  half  flaccid  balsa,  with  a  small  tube  of  intestine, 
which  is  attached  to  its  end,  in  his  mouth,  blowing  and  puffing, 
and  occasionally  tapping  the  vessel  to  ascertain  how  the  infla- 
tion proceeded.  At  length  he  finished,  and  twisted  the  tube 
round  the  nozzle  which  attached  it  to  the  balsa.  The  balsa 
used  here  is  similar  to  that  of  Coquimbo,  but  larger,  and  deck- 
ed over  between  the  two  bags  of  wind  by  a  dry  ox  hide  or  seal 
skin.  On  this  they  carry  freight  or  passengers  perfectly  dry. 
To  prevent  the  water  from  penetrating,  the  balsa  is  coated  over 
with  a  pigment  resembling  new  tanned  leather  in  color.  An- 
other fisherman  drew  his  balsa  ashore,  and  threw  three  fine 
large  fish  upon  the  sand,  which  he  had  caught  amongst  the 
rocks  off  the  point,  with  a  harpoon.  He  told  us  that  was  the 
only  way  of  taking  them. 

The  bay  affords  a  variety  of  excellent  fish,  and  the  rocks 
are  full  of  shell  fish,  much  esteemed  by  the  natives,  but  not 
eaten  by  foreigners.  Amongst  them  are  a  variety  of  limpets 
of  a  large  size,  as  well  as  many  smaller  shells.  Our  stay  here, 
however,  did  not  afford  us  time  to  collect  any  except  a  few 
dead  ones; — but  I  am  inclined  to  think,  that  an  amateur  would 
be  rewarded  by  a  few  days'  labor  at  this  place. 

We  walked  towards  the  governor's  house,  which  fronts  the 
landing,  and  turning  to  the  left,  found  ourselves  in  the  main 
and  only  street  of  Cobija.  It  is  perhaps  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
long,  but  not  closely  built.  The  houses  are  all  one  story  higb, 
and  constructed  of  wood  and  of  adobes  in  the  simplest  style, 
and  very  few  of  them  have  patios.  The  plastering  is  mixed 
with  salt  water,  and  very  soon  blisters  and  peels  off,  from  the 
effects  of  the  sun,  and  therefore  a  constant  repair  is  necessary. 
Wood,  all  of  which  is  brought  from  Chiloc  and  Concepciou,  is 


NOTICES  OF  BOLIVIA.  167 

a  cheaper  material  for  building  than  adobes,  both  on  account 
of  repairs  and  the  original  cost.  A  great  proportion  of  the 
houses  are  occupied  as  stores,  where  a  great  variety  of  foreign 
goods,  both  European  and  American,  are  exposed  for  sale. 
About  the  middle  of  the  street,  there  are  two  ancient  palms, 
and  an  old  dried  up  fig  tree,  (described  by  Frezier,  in  1713,) 
on  the  bark  of  which  foreigners  have  been  in  the  habit  of  cut- 
ting their  names.  Some  of  these  bear  date  as  early  as  1809. 
Amongst  other  names  is  that  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Vincennes,  1S28, 
and  P.  White,  N.  Carolina,  1S32. 

The  oldest  building  here  is  a  church,  said  to  have  been  erect- 
ed a  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  It  is  built  of  adobes  of  a 
small  size,  and  the  cement  is  said  to  have  been  made  of  the 
shell  formation  mentioned  above,  and  is  now  harder  than  stone. 
This  temple  is  very  small  and  mean  in  appearance ;  and  opens 
to  the  sea  by  the  only  door  in  the  building,  which  is  double, 
and  secured  by  a  common  padlock  ;  in  fact,  unless  attention 
were  called  to  it,  it  would  be  overlooked  as  some  stable. 

Amongst  the  inconveniences  of  this  port,  perhaps  the  greatest 
is  the  scarcity  of  water,  which  is  barely  sufficient  for  the  daily 
consumption  of  the  present  small  population,  and  even  this  is 
so  brackish,  that  strangers  are  unable  to  drink  it  without  a 
pretty  free  admixture  of  wine  or  spirits.  Coffee  and  tea  made 
from  it  are  far  from  being  very  palatable.  In  former  years, 
however,  it  was  not  so  scarce.  The  springs  from  which  it  is 
obtained  are  in  front  of  the  trees  in  the  side  of  the  hill,  and 
secured  by  lock  and  key,  except  a  small  tube  of  the  size  of  a 
gun  barrel,  from  which  a  stream  as  large  as  a  swan  quill  is- 
sues; and  this  is  carefully  stopped  when  not  running  into 
the  bottles  or  other  vessels  of  those  who  come  for  water.  At 
the  end  of  the  street,  and  within  ten  yards  of  the  surf,  is  a 
well,  said  to  contain  the  best  water  in  the  place :  this  the  go- 
vernor has  appropriated  to  his  own  use,  and  that  of  the  garrison, 
not  exceeding,  in  all,  servants  included,  fifty  persons.  About 
a  half  a  mile  from  the  town  is  a  spring,  which  is  used  for  wash- 
ing and  watering  the  cattle.  A  barrel  of  sweet  water  from 
Valparaiso  or  Peru  is  esteemed  no  small  present,  and  the  favor 
is  frequently  asked  of  vessels  arriving  in  the  port.    There  is 


168  THREE  VEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC 

now  an  American  ship  at  Catica,  loading  with  copper  ore  ;  the 
captain  fearing  that  he  should  be  short  of  water  for  his  voyage, 
went  in  his  boat  twelve  miles  to  leeward,  and  was  absent  two 
days,  and  obtained  only  two  barrels  of  water,  which  he  de- 
clares "is  so  salt  and  hard,  that  it  will  not  even  boil  beans  !" 
The  saltness  of  the  springs  is  owing  to  the  beds  of  nitre  and 
salt  in  the  neighborhood,  through  which  the  water  percolates  to 
the  place  of  its  exit.  Although  there  is  a  very  complete  appa- 
ratus here  for  boring,  and  with  a  reasonable  prospect  of  suc- 
cess, it  has  never  been  tried. 

In  the  United  States,  a  tavern  and  a  blacksmith's  shop  will 
always  form  the  nucleus  for  a  village.  In  South  America,  a 
church  and  a  billiard  table  answer  the  same  purpose,  and  poor 
is  that  place  indeed,  where,  during  some  part  of  the  day,  the 
balls  are  not  heard  rolling  about.  Here  there  is  a  tolerable 
table,  but  very  illy  supplied  with  cues  ;  and  as  in  all  Spanish 
towns,  the  pin-game  is  the  only  one  played  by  the  natives. 
This  game  is  played  with  three  balls.  Five  pins  of  hard  wood, 
called  "palillos,"  each  five  inches  long,  and  a  half  inch  in 
diameter,  are  set  up  in  the  centre  of  the  table,  with  sufficient 
space  between  them  to  allow  a  ball  to  pass  easily  through.  If 
the  centre  pin  be  knocked  down  without  disturbing  either  of 
the  others,  placed  on  the  corners  of  a  square,  it  counts  five, 
provided  the  player's  ball  first  strike  the  spot  ball  or  that  of 
his  antagonist ;  if  not,  he  loses  as  much.  The  fall  of  either  of 
the  other  pins,  or  all  of  them  together,  counts  two  each. 

There  is  a  tavern  here,  where  all  the  foreign  residents  eat, 
finding  it  much  less  trouble,  and  more  economical,  than  main- 
taining a  private  table.  Though  rather  scanty  in  furniture  even 
for  the  table,  a  very  good  fare  is  served  up  in  the  Spanish 
style.  Some  idea  of  the  trouble  of  house  keeping,  may  be  had 
from  a  knowledge  of  the  fact,  that  every  thing,  except  butcher's 
meat,  is  brought  from  Chile  and  Peru.  Every  vessel,  particu- 
larly the  coasters,  from  both  those  countries,  brings  large  quan- 
tities of  vegetables  and  live  stock  for  this  market,  and  a  part 
of  that  is  sent  off  to  the  interior !  Meat  and  fodder  for  the  cat- 
tle, used  in  the  mining  and  commercial  operations,  are  brought 
from  Calama,  a  town  forty  leagues  to  the  eastward  of  the  coast ; 


NOTICES  OF  BOLIVIA.  169 

and  between  it  and  the  coast,  I  am  told,  there  is  not  a  habita- 
tion, a  tree,  nor  a  blade  of  grass,  nor  a  spring  of  wholesome 
water ! 

The  latitude  of  Cobija  is  22°  30'  south.  It  is  the  only  port 
of  the  Republic  of  Bolivia  ;  whose  limited  coast,  extending 
from  21°  30'  S.  to  25°  soutb,  does  not  afford  any  site  so  con- 
venient as  this.  It  is  placed  in  the  desert  of  Atacama,  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  leagues  from  Chuquisaca,  the  present  capital; 
three  hundred  from  La  Paz,  the  former  capital,  and  a  hundred 
and  fifty  from  the  far  famed  Potosi,  and  not  less  than  seventy 
leagues  from  any  well  cultivated  lands.  It  was  declared  to  be 
the  Port  of  Bolivia  in  1S27,  but  from  the  scarcity  of  water  and 
provisions,  and  from  the  interruption  which  the  trade  received 
from  the  war  with  Peru,  very  few  vessels  entered  it  before 
1829,  since  which  time  the  place  has  increased  to  a  population 
of  between  six  and  seven  hundred  persons,  including  the  miners 
in  the  immediate  vicinity — and  from  the  number  of  new  build- 
ings going  up,  we  should  draw  very  favorable  conclusions  re- 
lative to  its  prosperity.  Though  so  recently  declared  the  port 
of  entry  for  Bolivia,  Cobija  was  resorted  to  as  early  as  1700, 
by  French  merchant  vessels,  when  a  very  rich  commerce  was 
driven  between  it  and  the  mining  district  of  Potosi.  At  that 
period  water  was  in  greater  abundance,  and  of  a  better  quali- 
ty than  at  present.  Previous  to  1827,  the  Republic  received 
all  its  supplies  of  foreign  goods  through  the  port  of  Arica,  in 
Peru,  by  way  of  the  interior  town  Tacna. 

A  half  million  of  dollars,  in  foreign  productions,  is  estimated 
to  pass  through  this  place  annually  for  the  interior.  Packages 
are  almost  all  unpacked,  and  again  put  up  in  smaller  parcels, 
and  of  a  certain  weight,  to  accommodate  them  to  the  means  of 
transportation,  which  is  entirely  by  mules  and  jackasses.  They 
are  generally  carried  on  jackasses  as  far  as  Calama,  and  from 
thence  on  mules  to  the  different  points  of  destination. 

The  imports  consist  of  European  dry  goods,  cottons,  silks, 
quicksilver,  tobacco,  teas,  wines,  American  domestics,  flour, 
&c.  These  are  frequently  purchased  on  board  at  Valparaiso, 
deliverable  at  this  port.  The  duties  are  low  now  on  every 
thing,  and  the  question  of  making  it  an  entirely  free  port, 
22 


170  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

is  agitated  in  the  present  congress.  All  kinds  of  provisions, 
except  luxuries,  as  wine,  &c,  are  admitted  free.  Manufac- 
tured goods,  as  furniture,  and  American  cottons,  pay  an  ad 
valorem  duty  of  ten  per  cent,  which  is  the  highest  levied  ; 
silks  and  similar  goods  pay  five. 

The  exports  are  confined  to  coined  gold  and  silver,  which 
pay  a  duty  of  two  per  cent,  (in  bullion  they  are  prohibited,) 
and  copper  and  copper  ores.  The  following  table,  the  informa- 
tion for  which  was  obtained  from  the  captain  of  the  port,  ex- 
hibits a  view  of  the  number  of  vessels  which  have  visited  ihis 
port  from  the  1st  of  November  1831,  to  September  14  1832, 
being  ten  and  a  half  months. 


Nation. 

Ships. 

Brigs. 

Schooner*. 

Peru, 



4 

13 

United  States, 

7 

3 

8 

Chile, 

— 

2 

13 

England, 

3 

3 

— 

France, 

6 

3 

— 

Holland, 

— 

1 

— 

Mexico, 

— 

— 

1 

Colombia, 

— 

1 

— 

Buenos  Ayres, 

— 

— 

1 

Russia, 

1 

— 

— 

Sardinia, 

— 

1 

— 

Hamburg, 

— 

2 

2 

From  the  9th  of  March  1831,  to  the  14th  September  1832, 
being  seventeen  months,  ten  ships,  ten  brigs,  and  three  schoo- 
ners, under  American  colors,  have  visited  this  port,  and  some 
of  them  several  times. 

During  our  stay  here,  a  day  was  devoted  to  a  visit  to  the 
mines.  Having  prepared  a  basket  with  some  cold  meats,  wine, 
water,  &c,  we  left  the  ship  in  the  gig,  and  pulled  to  Catica, 
which  is  about  two  leagues  from  the  anchorage.  At  this  place 
the  landing  is  bad,  and  generally  effected  through  the  surf  on 
balsas.  The  captain  of  the  American  ship  before  mentioned, 
loading  copper  ore  for  Swansey,  Wales,  joined  our  party.  We 
examined  the  bellows  furnace  here,  and  a  heap  of  ore,  which 


NOTICES  OP  BOLIVIA.  171 

they  were  weighing  and  embarking.  It  consisted  of  a  brown 
oxide,  with  a  hard  clear  fracture,  and  a  red  oxide,  a  sulphuret, 
and  some  green  carbonate.*  Smelting  is  not  carried  on  to  any 
great  extent,  from  the  scarcity  of  fuel.  There  is  no  mineral 
coal  in  the  country,  and  the  charcoal  is  brought  from  Chile 
and  Peru.  For  the  purposes  of  cooking,  the  wood  of  the  cac- 
tus is  used.     It  is  very  light,  and  affords  but  little  heat. 

We  proceeded  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  upon  which  the  mines 
are  situated,  distant  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Catica.  The 
road  is  quite  rough,  and  crosses  a  gap  or  mouth  of  a  valley, 
through  which  passes  the  road  to  Calama  and  Potosi.  When 
arrived  at  a  shed,  which  is  built  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  we 
found  we  had  ascended  perhaps  three  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  had  a  view  of  the  highway  till  it  winds 
out  of  sight  amongst  the  hills.  From  the  nature  of  the  soil, 
from  the  great  quantity  of  pebbles  strewed  over  it,  and  other 
features  of  this  road,  we  came  generally  to  the  conclusion  that 
it  had  once  been  the  bed  of  a  river,  or  a  mighty  mountain  tor- 
rent. After  a  short  rest,  we  began  to  mount  the  side  of  the 
hill  by  a  zigzag  pathway,  which  ascends  at  an  angle,  from  the 
base,  of  at  least  thirty-six  degrees.  From  the  starting  place, 
we  could  just  perceive,  a  thousand  feet  above  us,  and  not  half 
way  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  a  small  white  tent,  amidst  some 
large  trees  of  cactus,  which  was  the  goal  of  our  labors.  Many 
paths  are  formed  by  the  miners  and  mules  on  every  part  of  the 
hill,  and  some  of  them  are  much  more  steep  than  others ;  that 
which  we  followed,  is  perhaps  the  least  difficult  of  ascent.  We 
were  forced  to  stop  for  breath  very  frequently  on  our  way  up, 
and  at  such  times  we  observed  the  mouths  or  entrances  of  seve- 
ral mines,  which  had  been  opened,  but  not  now  worked.  Some 
of  them  are  not  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  deep.  After 
considerable  toil  we  reached  the  tent.  A  half  dozen  little 
hovels, just  large  enough  for  two  or  three  persons  to  crawl  into, 

*  The  gentlemen  engaged  in  the  business  permitted  us  to  select  some  speci- 
mens, and  presented  us  with  others  which  had  been  laid  aside.  We  obtained 
some  fine  crystals  of  the  oxides,  and  a  half  dozen  pieces  containing  very  mi- 
nute portions  of  native  gold.  These  ores  are  supposed  to  yield  about  25  per 
cent,  of  copper,  and  to  contain  gold  enough  to  pay  the  expense  of  reducing  it. 


172  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

were  built  about  it,  with  loose  stones  and  branches  of  the  cac- 
tus. Amongst  these  were  perhaps  twenty  women  and  children, 
seated  upon  stones,  surrounded  with  small  heaps  of  ore,  which 
they  were  breaking  up,  and  sorting  and  throwing  away  the 
stone  which  adhered  to  it.  They  used  double  flat  faced  ham- 
mers, of  about  three  pounds  weight.  Three  or  four  "  boca 
minas,"  or  entrances  to  mines,  opened  near  each  other,  and 
before  them  were  piles  of  ore,  thrown  by  those  employed  in 
bringing  it  up.  The  whole  scene  was  one  of  wretchedness. 
The  women  and  children  were  coarsely  dressed  in  woollen,  and 
without  the  slightest  shelter  from  the  hot  sun. 

We  descended  to  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  mines.    A  miner 
carried  a  small,  dirty,  smoking  lamp,  and  led  the  way.  About 
forty  feet  from  the  entrance,  it  turned  to  the  left,  and  we  found 
ourselves  in  a  spot  where  the  sides  of  the  mine  were  lined 
with  thin  plates  of  quartz  crystal,  which  dip  into  the  joints  or 
cracks  between  the  pieces  of  ore,  and  our  lamp  seemed  sudden- 
ly to  multiply  its  light  a  hundred  fold.    If  the  walls  had  been 
hung   with   cut  glass  drops,   it  could    not  have  been  more 
beautifully  irridescent.    When  I  arrived  near  the  bottom,  the 
guide  suddenly  left  me  to  return  for  some  one  of  the  party, 
who  had  not  progressed  so  fast.    He  was  absent  a  half  minute, 
and  I  was  in  total  darkness.    Close  to  me  I  heard  a  man  snor- 
ing, and  almost  under  my  feet,  the  blows  of  a  hammer,  accom- 
panied by  that  subdued  short  breathed  sound  of  "  ha  !"  at  every 
blow.    To  one  unused  to  such  circumstances,  there  was  some- 
thing appalling  and  unpleasant  to  the  feelings.   The  light  soon 
returned,  and  another  turn  through  a  hoie  just  large  enough 
to  pass,  brought  us  to  a  miner  lying  with  his  side  against  the 
earth,  in  a  bent  position,  breaking  out  large  pieces  of  ore  from 
above  his  head,  with  an  iron  chisel,  and  heavy  hammer.   It  was 
he  whom  I  heard  when  alone  in  the  dark.    He  handed  us  a 
piece  of  the  ore,  which  he  had  just  broken  out,  for  examination, 
and  broke  us  a  neat  specimen  of  what  he  termed  the  best.  This 
was  the  dark  heavy  oxide,  with  a  thin  laminum  of  quartz 
spread  over  one  sid#. 

The  course  of  this  mine  falls  very  little  below  a  horizontal 
line,  and  is  about  ten  feet  in  diameter  in  some  places,  and  in 


NOTICES  OP  BOLIVIA.  173 

others  much  narrower.  From  the  surface  to  the  bottom,  does 
not  exceed  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  gangue  of  these 
mines  is  either  granite  or  carburet  of  iron. 

After  indulging  our  curiosity,  and  selecting  some  pieces  of 
ore  to  carry  with  us,  we  entered  one  of  the  little  huts  where 
the  servant  had  deposited  the  basket  of  provisions.  Five  in  all 
got  inside,  including  our  host,  who  was  polite,  and  answered 
readily  the  questions  proposed  to  him.  Exercise  had  given  us 
an  appetite,  and  it  was  not  long  before  the  contents  of  our  bas- 
ket (of  which  also  the  host  partook)  disappeared.  The  hovel 
contained  a  small  chest,  a  dirty  bed,  and  a  small  barrel,  and 
this  was  all  the  furniture. 

The  ore  is  brought  from  the  bottom  of  the  mines  upon  men's 
backs,  in  small  sacks  of  hide,  and  the  weight  they  thus  carry 
up  rough  ascents,  difficult  for  us  to  climb  unladen,  is  really 
surprising.  The  athletic  forms  of  these  men,  and  their  appa- 
rent cheerfulness,  caused  my  admiration  as  much  as  the  se- 
vere nature  of  their  toil.  There  are  forty  men  at  work,  who 
are  paid  each  a  dollar  a  day,  and  considering  the  life  they  lead, 
and  the  high  price  of  provisions,  it  is  not  much.  After  being 
culled,  the  ore  is  carried  on  mules  and  asses  to  Catica,  to  be 
smelted  or  exported.  On  taking  a  view  of  the  whole,  I  would 
not  give  a  few  fertile  acres  in  our  happy  country,  for  all  the 
mines  of  this  province. 

As  we  descended  the  hill,  we  saw  several  small  yellow  birds 
hopping  amongst  the  stones,  and  picked  up  a  few  land  shells. 
About  half  past  three  we  got  back  to  Calica,  all  very  tired, 
and  quite  ready  for  a  cool  glass  of  wine  and  water,  which  was 
kindly  given  us  at  the  smelting  house.  Here  one  of  the  party 
was  requested  to  see  a  female  afflicted  with  a  dropsy,  which  is 
the  prevalent  disease  of  the  place,  which  is  otherwise  healthy. 
As  there  is  no  medical  man  in  Cobija,  they  are  glad  to  avail 
themselves  of  advice  from  any  physicians  who  may  chance  to 
visit  the  port.  The  only  leech  is  the  Sangrador,  or  bleeder  at- 
tached to  the  garrison,  and  possibly  the  curate  may  have  some 
smattering  of  the  healing  art. 

After  resting  an  hour,  and  in  vain  endeavoring  to  procure  a 
mule,  or  horse,  or  ass,  we  set  forward  on  foot  for  the  town. 


174  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

The  road  is  rough,  up  hills  and  over  gullies,  without  anything 
to  relieve  the  eye  from  its  barrenness.  Scarcely  a  bird  is  to  be 
seen  ;  in  fact,  since  our  being  here,  I  have  seen  only  three  or 
four  buzzards,* a  half  dozen  gulls,  and  a  lone  pelican.  Instinct 
or  experience  teaches,  that  there  is  nothing  to  invite  either 
man  or  animal — but  what  will  not  man  undergo  for  gold ! 

The  two  leagues  were  passed,  and,  well  wearied  with  our 
excursion,  we  returned  on  board  at  sunset. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Historical  sketch  of  Bolivia — Its  productions — Coca. 

On  the  5th  of  August  1825,  Potosi,  Charcas,  Cochabamba, 
and  Santa  Cruz,  formerly  constituting  Upper  Peru,  declared 
themselves  independent  of  Ferdinand  VII.,  and  on  the  11th 
of  August,  the  Assembly  decreed  that  the  Republic  should 
bear  the  title  of  Bolivia.  They  date  the  birth  day  of  the 
nation  from  the  6th  of  August  1825,  the  day  on  which  was 
gained  the  victory  of  Junin. 

On  the  25th  of  May,  1826,  a  Congress  was  installed  at  Chu- 
quisaca,  and  a  committee  appointed  to  examine  the  Constitu- 
tion proposed  by  Bolivar.  They  reported  favorably,  and  in 
conformity  to  its  principles,  a  President  was  chosen  for  life. 
The  choice  fell  on  General  Sucre,  who  accepted  the  office  for 
only  two  years,  on  the  condition  that  two  thousand  Colombian 
troops  should  be  permitted  to  remain  with  him.  Sucre  declin- 
ed holding  the  presidency  for  a  longer  period  than  two  years, 
on  the  grounds  of  having  been  educated  a  soldier  ;  and  having 
spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life  in  the  field,  he  was  unfit  to  be 
the  civic  chief  of  their  government.* 

•  Memoirs  of  General  Miller.  Vol.  II. 


NOTICES  OP  BOLIVIA.  175 

During  his  administration,  schools  were  established,  and 
plenipotentiaries  were  sent  to  Buenos  Ayres,  to  obtain  the  ac- 
knowledgment of  the  independence  of  the  Republic,  which 
was  withheld  by  that  government,  alleging  that  Bolivia  could 
not  be  free  while  General  Sucre  and  two  thousand  Colombians 
were  permitted  to  remain  within  her  territories.  This  act  gave 
umbrage  to  the  Bolivians,  and  evoked  some  spirited  articles  on 
the  subject  from  them,  which  appeared  in  "El  Peruano." 

On  the  15th  of  October  1826,  Peru  acknowledged  Bolivia 
to  be  an  independent  state.  At  present,  an  agent  from  Brazil, 
and  a  Charge  d'Aflaires  and  Consul  General  from  France,  are 
residing  at  Chuquisaca.  The  government  of  the  United  States 
has  not  yet  sent  a  diplomatic  agent  of  any  class  to  that  country. 

Notwithstanding  that  Peru  acknowledged  the  independence 
of  Bolivia,  she  was  anxious  to  obtain  the  cession  of  certain  ter- 
ritories, adjoining  to  her  southern  boundary.  On  the  9th  of 
April  1827,  the  Peruvian  plenipotentiary  left  La  Paz,  and 
soon  after,  a  Peruvian  army,  under  the  command  of  General 
Gamarra,  appeared  on  the  Bolivian  frontier.  On  the  18th  of 
April  1828,  the  garrison  at  Chuquisaca,  the  capital  of  Bolivia, 
revolted,  through  the  intrigue  and  machinations  of  the  Peru- 
vian general.  This  garrison  consisted  only  of  f^y  men,  yet  it 
was  sufficient  to  overthrow  the  then  existing  government. 
General  Sucre,  in  attempting  to  quell  the  disturbance,  was 
severely  wounded  in  the  arm.  Gamarra,  under  pretence  of 
fear  for  the  personal  safety  of  the  President,  and  anxiety  to 
restore  tranquillity  to  the  state,  marched  from  the  Desagara- 
dero,  where  he  was  encamped,  and  took  possession  of  La  Paz, 
and  of  the  Capital.  Sucre  at  once  resigned,  and  sailing  from 
Cobija,  arrived  at  Callao  on  the  13th  of  December,  where  he 
remained  twenty-four  hours,  but  was  not  permitted  to  land. 
While  there  his  wounds  were  dressed  by  one  of  the  medical 
officers  of  the  United  States  Frigate  Brandy  wine ;  and  he  offer- 
ed his  services  to  intercede  between  the  governments  of  Peru 
and  Colombia,  then  at  war,  with  the  hope  of  restoring  peace 
without  having  recourse  to  arms.  On  the  fourteenth  he  sailed 
in  the  Porcia  (an  American  ship)  for  Guayaquil. 

Bolivia  was  soon  plunged  in  a  most  dreadful  state  of  anarchy. 


176  T1IKEE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

General  Santa  Cruz  was  called  by  the  constituent  Congress  to 
be  President,  but  a  party,  or  rather  a  faction,  forcibly  elevated 
General  Don  Pedro  Blanco  to  the  chief  magistracy.  On  the 
25th  of  December  he  made  his  public  entry  into  Chuquisaca, 
and  the  next  day  took  the  oath  of  office.  On  the  thirty -first  a 
revolution  took  place,  he  was  made  prisoner,  and  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  1st  of  January  1S29,  he  was  shot,  after  having  been 
President  four  days ! 

On  the  14th  of  December  1S28,  Gamarra  was  received  at 
Lima,  amidst  the  rejoicings  of  the  people,  who  styled  him  the 
Liberator  of  La  Paz,  and  entertained  him  at  the  theatre,  and 
at  the  Plaza  del  Acho  with  a  bull-bait. 

On  the  15th  of  February  1829,  (six  weeks  after  the  death 
of  General  Blanco,)  the  Vice  President  dissolved  the  Conven- 
tional Assembly,  and  declared  all  their  acts  to  be  void,  leaving 
the  laws  the  same  as  at  the  adjournment  of  the  constituent 
Congress,  and  named  again  General  Santa  Cruz  as  the  provi- 
sional President. 

Since  that  period,  Santa  Cruz  has  been  at  the  head  of  the 
government,  which  for  prosperity  ranks  amongst  the  foremost 
of  the  South  American  republics.  He  has  established  schools, 
increased  commerce  by  relieving  it  of  many  heavy  taxes,  and 
he  has  concluded  a  treaty  of  peace  and  commerce  with  Peru. 

The  extensive  territory  of  Bolivia  is  rich  in  mines  of  cop- 
per and  the  precious  metals;  the  vine  and  olive  nourish;  in 
many  places  sugar  cane  grows  wild,  and  rice  and  flax  are  pro- 
duced in  abundance.  Peruvian  bark  and  indigo  are  success- 
fully cultivated ;  and  the  coca,  which  is  sc  essential  to  the  In- 
dian's comfortable  existence,  is  a  staple  of  this  climate.  The 
erithroxylon  peruvianas  or  coca,  at  the  time  of  the  conquest, 
was  only  used  by  the  Incas  and  those  of  the  royal  or  rather 
solar  blood.  The  plant  was  looked  upon  as  an  image  of  di- 
vinity, and  no  one  entered  the  enclosures  where  it  was  culti- 
vated without  bending  the  knee  in  adoration.  The  divine 
sacrifices  made  at  that  period  were  thought  not  to  be  accepta- 
ble to  heaven,  unless  the  victims  were  crowned  with  branches 
of  this  tree.  The  oracles  made  no  reply,  and  auguries  were 
terrible,  if  the  priest  did  not  chew  coca  at  the  time  of  consult- 


NOTICES  OF  BOLIVIA.  177 

ing  them.  It  was  an  unheard  of  sacrilege  to  invoke  the  shades 
of  the  departed  great,  without  wearing  this  plant  in  token  of 
respect,  and  the  Coyas  and  Mamas,  who  were  supposed  to  pre- 
side over  gold  and  silver,  rendered  the  mines  impenetrable,  if 
the  laborers  failed  to  chew  the  leaves  of  coca  while  engaged  in 
the  toil.  To  this  plant  the  Indian  recurred  for  relief  in  his 
greatest  distress ;  no  matter  whether  want  or  disease  oppressed 
him,  or  whether  he  sought  the  favors  of  Fortune  or  Cupid,  he 
found  consolation  in  this  divine  plant. 

In  the  course  of  time,  its  use  extended  to  the  whole  Indian 
population,  and  its  cultivation  became  an  important  branch  of 
trade.  It  produced  at  one  period  no  less  than  $2,641,487 
yearly,  and  we  are  told  that  its  leaves  were  once  the  repre- 
sentative of  money,  and  circulated  as  coin. 

It  is  sown  in  the  months  of  December  and  January,  its 
growth  being  forwarded  by  the  heavy  rains  which  fall  in  the 
mountainous  regions  from  that  time  till  the  month  of  April. 
It  flowers  but  once  a  year,  but  yields  four  crops  of  leaves, 
which  are  not  however  equally  abundant;  the  least  so  is  ga- 
thered at  the  time  of  inflorescence.  It  requires  to  be  sown 
once  in  five  years.  When  the  leaves  attain  an  emerald  green 
on  one  side,  and  a  straw  color  on  the  other,  they  are  carefully 
pulled,  one  by  one,  and  dried  in  the  sun. 

The  virtues  of  the  coca  are  of  the  most  astonishing  charac- 
ter. The  Indians  who  are  addicted  to  its  use  are  enabled  to 
withstand  the  toil  of  the  mines,  amidst  noxious  metallic  exha- 
lations, without  rest,  food,  or  protection  from  the  climate. 
They  run  hundreds  of  leagues  over  deserts,  arid  plains,  and 
craggy  mountains,  sustained  only  by  the  coca  and  a  little 
parched  corn,  and  often  too,  acting  as  mules  in  bearing  loads 
through  passes  where  animals  cannot  go.  Many  have  attri- 
buted this  frightful  frugality  and  power  of  endurance  to  the  ef- 
fects of  habit,  and  not  to  the  use  of  the  coca,  but  it  must  be 
remembered,  that  the  Indian  is  naturally  voracious,  and  it  is 
known  that  many  Spaniards  were  unable  to  perform  the  Her- 
culean tasks  of  the  Peruvians,  until  they  habitually  used  the 
coca.  Moreover,  the  Indians,  without  it,  lose  both  their  vigor 
and  powers  of  endurance.  It  is  stated,  that  during  the  siege  of 
23 


178  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACTFIC. 

La  Paz,  in  1781,  when  the  Spaniards  were  constantly  on  the 
watch,  and  destitute  of  provisions  in  the  inclemencies  of  win- 
ter, they  were  saved  from  disease  and  death  hy  resorting  to 
thus  plant. 

The  coca  possesses  a  slightly  aromatic  and  agreeable  odor, 
and  when  chewed,  dispenses  a  grateful  fragrance ;  its  taste  is 
moderately  bitter  and  astringent,  and  it  tinges  the  saliva  of  a 
greenish  hue.  Its  effects  on  the  system  are  stomachic  and  to- 
nic, and  beneficial  in  preventing  intcrmittents,  which  have  al- 
ways prevailed  in  the  country.* 

The  mode  of  employing  coca  is  to  mix  with  it  in  the  mouth 
a  small  quantity  of  lime,  prepared  from  shells,  much  after  the 
manner  that  the  betel  is  used  in  the  East.  With  this,  a  handful 
of  parched  corn,  and  a  ball  of  arrow  root,  an  Indian  will  travel 
on  foot  a  hundred  leagues,  trotting  on  ahead  of  a  horse.  On 
the  frequented  roads,  I  am  informed,  that  the  Indian  guides 
have  certain  spots  where  ihey  throw  out  their  quids,  which 
have  accumulated  into  little  heaps,  that  now  serve  as  marks  of 
distance  ;  so  that  instead  of  saying  one  place  is  so  many  leagues 
from  another,  it  is  common  to  call  it  so  many  quids ! 

The  Indians  sometimes  have  tertulias  for  taking  the  infusion 
of  the  leaves,  as  well  as  for  chewing  it.  In  the  former  mode, 
the  effects  are  agreeably  exhilarating.  It  is  usual  to  say,  on 
such  occasions,  "  vamosa  coquear  y  acullicar" — let  us  indulge 
in  coca. 

•  Disertacion  sobre  el  aspecto,  cultivo,  comercio,  y  virtudes  de  la  famosa 
planta  del  Peru,  nombrada  Coca.  For  el  Doctor  Don  Hipoido  i'natiue.  Mer- 
curio  Peruano.    July,  1794.    Lima. 


NOTICES   OF    PERU. 


NOTICES    OF    PERU. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Callao  Bay — Island  of  San  Lorenzo — Entering  Callao — Castles — Ancient  de» 
fence  of  Callao — Town  of  Callao — Market — Water — The  mole — Remains  of 
"Old  Callao." 


Br  reference  to  any  map  of  Peru,  it  may  be  seen  that  Callao 
lies  in  about  twelve  degrees  of  south  latitude,  and  that  Lima 
is  a  little  to  the  northward  and  eastward  of  it. 

From  the  mild,  and  almost  constantly  prevailing  southerly 
breezes,  the  bay  is  always  smooth,  affording  one  of  the  best 
places  on  the  coast  for  vessels  to  careen,  after  their  long  pas- 
sage round  Cape  Horn.  From  its  geographical  relations,  this 
could  not  be  expected,  since  it  is  a  mere  open  roadstead,  pro- 
tected from  the  southerly  breezes  by  an  island  called  San  Lo- 
renzo, which  extends  from  south-west  to  north-east,  nearly 
two  leagues.  It  is  about  a  mile  wide,  and  its  highest  point  is 
nearly  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Towards 
the  southern  end  it  is  separated  by  a  narrow,  rocky  channel, 
navigable  for  boats.  It  bears  evidence  of  having  been  severed 
by  some  violent  earthquake,  at  a  period  of  which  there  is  no 
record.  San  Lorenzo  is  a  barren  spot,  without  a  vestige  of  ver- 
dure, save  on  its  very  summit  for  a  few  weeks  in  the  winter 
season,  when  it  is  pretty  constantly  shrouded  in  dense  clouds. 
Its  rocky  shore  is  inhabited  by  a  variety  of  molluscous  animals., 


IS2  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  great  numbers  of  seals,  while  its  heights  are  only  visited 
by  condors  and  vultures. 

There  is  a  melancholy  sentiment  conveyed  by  a  sight  of  this 
barren  spot.  When  death  has  removed  them  from  this  world, 
our  countrymen,  in  common  with  Englishmen,  are  allowed  no 
other  resting  place,  for  "the  cursed  ungodliness  of  zeal"  has 

"  Denied  the  charity  of  dust,  to  spread 
O'er  dust!" 

Even  the  humble  monument,  raised  by  weeping  friendship, 
has  been  defaced  or  torn  away  by  bigots  !  Many  noble  hearts, 
stilled  by  the  silent  inroads  of  this  deceitful  climate,  now 
moulder  here,  far  away  from  the  land  that  gave  them  birth. 

Not  long  since,  the  government  granted  foreigners  permis- 
sion (not  yet  taken  advantage  of)  to  purchase  a  spot  near  Lima, 
to  be  consecrated  as  a  burying  ground  ;  but  nothing  can  gain  a 
Protestant  corpse  admittance  into  the  Peruvian  Pantheon. 
They  refused  burial  even  to  the  remains  of  Admiral  Guise,  the 
commander  in  chief  of  their  navy,  killed  in  182S,  before  Guay- 
aquil, on  board  of  the  Frigate  Prueba,  till  his  widow,  a  native 
lady,  stated  most  solemnly  that  he  was  a  Roman  Catholic. 

When  we  approached  Callao,  the  zenith  was  clear.  The 
Morro  Solar  and  San  Lorenzo  lay  silent  before  us.  The  breeze 
was  mild.  The  clouds  floated  round  the  mighty  Cordilleras, 
but  their  snowy  peaks  looked  over  them.  The  narrow  strip  of 
plain  between  the  coast  and  the  mountains  was  green.  The 
spires  and  fanes  of  Pizarro's  city  "of  a  thousand  towers  and 
an  hundred  gates,"  were  descried,  nestling  at  the  foot  of  San 
Cristoval.  As  we  neared  the  island,  the  sea  broke  sullenly 
along  its  southern  shore,  and  over  the  insulated  rocks  near  it. 
We  were  so  near  them,  that  we  plainly  saw,  basking  in  the 
sun,  hundreds  of  drowsy  seals  and  sea  lions,  with  sleek  skins 
and  shaggy  manes. 

We  passed  close  to  Ihe  northern  end  of  San  Lorenzo,  ami 
about  four  o'clock  anchored  a  mile  from  the  mole,  and  outside 
of  the  merchant  vessels.    Before  coming  to,  the  captain  of  tin 
port  and  Ihe  port    physician  boarded  us,  and  received  all  the 
letters  we  had  brought.    The  captain  of  the  port  told  ftfl  that  I 


NOTICES  OP  PERT.  183 

fine  of  five  hundred  dollars  was  imposed  on  any  person  who 
should  be  detected  in  carrying  a  sealed  letter  to  Lima.  Letters 
for  the  consignees  of  merchant  vessels  are  excepted. 

Besides  the  entrance  by  the  northern  end  of  the  island,  there 
is  another,  called  the  Boqueron  passage,  between  the  main  and 
the  southern  portion,  called  Fronton. 

To  the  north-east  of  the  anchorage,  the  river  Rimac,  which 
passes  the  City  of  Lima,  insensibly  debouches,  and  leaves 
many  lagoons  in  that  direction.  Two  miles  to  the  north,  there 
is  a  shoal  near  the  shore,  and  a  stream  of  water  falling  into  the 
sea,  called  Bocanegra. 

About  three  leagues  to  the  south  of  Callao,  is  a  promontory 
called  the  Morro  Solar.  On  its  northern  side  is  the  village  of 
Chorillos,  inhabited  by  Indians  ;  which,  during  the  summer, 
is  the  resort  of  the  fashion  of  Lima,  for  the  purpose  of  sea 
bathing.  To  the  south  of  it  are  two  landing  places  ;  one,  El 
Salto  del  FpiAile — the  Friar's  Leap,  and  the  other,  China, 
which  was  much  frequented,  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  cen- 
tury, by  French  merchantmen  and  smugglers. 

Previous  to  the  great  earthquake  of  1746,  (2Sth  October,) 
which  ruined  Lima  and  submerged  Callao,  this  place  was  de- 
fended by  a  simple  Wall,  and  irregular  bastions ;  but,  from  the 
loose  nature  of  the  soil,  without  a  fosse.  The  guns  were  of  brass, 
but  so  entirely  worn,  that  a  great  part  of  the  charge  of  powder 
burnt  out  at  the  touch  hole.  The  gun  carriages  were  quite  as 
defective  as  the  artillery  ;  some  had  but  one  wheel,  and  others 
were  worn  almost  square.  What  is  remarkable,  there  was  no 
one  in  Lima  who  was  professionally  capable  of  repairing  these 
guns,  which  were  at  last  bushed  by  a  silversmith  named 
Francisco  de  Villachica,  who  had  never  been  out  of  Lima,  but, 
from  the  urgency  of  the  case,  undertook  the  work.  At  that 
time,  the  shot  used  were  either  of  pure  copper  or  mixed  with 
lead,  and  we  are  told  that  the  officers  sold  large  quantities  of 
them  for  their  private  advantage.* 

The  site  of  Callao  of  the  present  day,  is  some  hundred  toises 
to  the  north  of  the  old,  and  possesses  a  very  different  soil.   The 

*  Noticias  Secretes  de  America,  p.  138. 


184  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

site  of  old  Callao  is  at  present,  and  probably  was  when  Ulloa 
left  Peru  (1744),  a  loose  shingle  filled  in  with  light  sand.* 

At  present  there  are  three  castles  which  completely  com- 
mand the  anchorage  and  the  road  to  Lima  ;  one  on  the  point 
that  stretches  towards  San  Lorenzo,  called  generally  the  south 
battery,  one  on  the  north  of  the  town,  called  the  north  battery, 
and  a  third  between  the  two,  La  Independencia,  formerly 
named  San  Felipe.  The  last  is  large,  and  well  calculated,  even 
with  a  large  garrison,  to  withstand  a  long  siege,  as  was  demon- 
strated by  the  protracted  resistance  of  Rodil  in  the  late  war. 
The  castles  were  begun  in  1747,  just  after  the  earthquake  ;  in 
the  same  year  Bellavista  was  built,  about  a  quarter  of  a  league 
from  Callao,  as  the  port,  in  order  to  be  beyond  the  ingress  of 
the  sea  in  the  event  of  another  earthquake,  for  Callao  was  lite- 
rally swept  from  its  foundation  by  the  rolling  in  of  the  ocean, 
rather  than  by  the  shaking  of  the  earth.  The  castles  have  pre- 
vented the  augmentation  and  improvement  of  the  town  ;  pro- 
prietors of  the  land  always  are  at  the  risk  of  having  the  houses 
torn  down,  in  case  the  place  should  be  attacked  or  even  threat- 
ened by  an  enemy,  and  that  too  by  their  own  guns. 

Though  these  castles,  and  the  arsenal  immediately  under  the 
walls  of  San  Felipe,  also  defended  by  heavy  brass  guns,  have 
a  formidable  appearance,  they  are  totally  useless  in  preventing 
invasion  from  any  maritime  foe.  They  could  only  serve  as  a 
strong  hold  when  driven  to  extremity,  to  enable  the  besieged 
to  gain  time,  and  draw  succor  from  the  interior  resources  of 
the  country.  True,  tbey  completely  protect  the  immense  bay 
of  Callao,  and  might  save  all  the  shipping  in  it,  in  the  event  of 
an  attempt  to  cut  them  out.  For  many  leagues  to  the  north 
and  south,  landing  can  be  effected  without  risk,  even  in  small 
boats  and  canoes. 

Besides  the  bad  repair  10  which  the  ancient  defence  of  Cal- 
lao was  kept,  the  garrison  was  small  and  without  discipline. 
Many  dishonest  persons  in  Lima,  attached  themselves  to  the 
artillery  nominally,  in  order  to  escape  the  prosecution  of  cre- 


•  Tor  a  description  of  Callao  as  it  was  previous  to  1746,  sec  Frczicr's  Yoy- 
age  to  tlie  South  Sea,  in  1712— 13— 11. 


I  NOTICES  OP  PERU.  185 

ditors.  They  entered  the  corps,  and  appeared  at  certain  times 
at  the  fortification,  to  prove  that  they  were  in  the  service  of 
the  king,  which  exempted  them  from  the  grasp  of  the  officers 
of  justice.  This  nominal  enlistment  was  effected  hy  bribing 
the  officers  of  the  artillery,  with  a  third  or  two  thirds,  and 
sometimes  even  with  the  whole  of  the  pay  receivable  by  law. 

At  the  fortress  in  Valdivia,  the  viceroy  paid  the  troops,  part- 
ly in  clothing  and  the  necessaries  which  they  required,  and 
which  could  not  be  purchased  there.  The  commander  or  go- 
vernor was  intrusted  with  the  disbursements.  He  kept  all  the 
goods;  opened  a  shop,  and,  paying  the  money  sent,  sold  the 
goods  to  the  soldiery  at  most  exorbitant  prices ;  necessity  com- 
pelled tbem  to  purchase,  and  thus  the  chieftain  received  as  his 
own,  what  he  had  held  only  in  trust.* 

Ulloa  complained  loudly  of  the  want  of  discipline  through- 
out all  the  garrisons  of  the  whole  coast,  from  Valdivia  to  Pana- 
ma, and  in  order  to  remedy  it,  proposed  to  send  yearly  to  Spain, 
a  proportional  number  of  men  from  each  province,  according 
to  its  population,  there  to  be  drilled,  taught,  and  accustomed 
to  war  in  the  armies  of  the  monarch.  He  thought  that  a  mili- 
tary education,  sufficient  for  one  of  these  small  garrisons,  could 
not  be  taught  in  America,  even  if  all  the  officers,  superior  and 
subaltern,  had  been  Spaniards,  as  he  recommended.  He  sug- 
gests, however,  the  propriety  of  giving  to  the  newly  educated, 
some  subaltern  offices,  as  serjeant-major,  &c,  to  encourage 
them  to  make  themselves  worthy  of  greater  preferment.  He 
represents  the  Creoles  as  having  been  extremely  vain  of  such 
royal  favor  and  distinction. 

During  the  last  two  years,  Callao  has  much  improved,  and 
the  population  has  increased  to  probably  eight  thousand  souls. 
There  is  a  fine  wharf  or  mole,  nearly  completed,  provided 
with  cranes  and  landing  slips  for  the  convenience  of  vessels  in 
the  harbor.  Its  foundation  is  the  ruined  hulk  of  an  old  sloop 
of  war,  around  which  piles  have  been  driven;  these  are  filled 
in  with  stone,  brought  from  San  Lorenzo,  where  it  is  quarried 
and  broken  by  convicts. 

*  Noticias  Secretas  de  America. 
24 


186  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE  PACIFIC. 

The  main  street,  following  the  course  of  the  beach,  is  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  and  has  been  lately  paved.  The  houses 
are  built  of  "  adobes,"  with  a  second  story  made  of  cane  wick- 
er work,  plastered  with  mud,  and  whitewashed.  The  roofs  are 
all  flat;  also  of  wicker  work,  and  plastered  with  mud.  These 
are  kept  clean  in  some  instances  as  promenades,  but  more  fre- 
quently become  receptacles  for  all  kinds  of  family  refuse.  This 
light  architecture  is  used,  because  it  is  less  expensive,  and  less 
dangerous  during  earthquakes.  At  the  northern  end  of  the 
street  are  a  number  of  huts,  constructed  of  mats,  tenanted  by 
fishermen,  who  supply  the  markets  of  Callao  and  Lima  with 
fish ;  this  part  of  the  town  is  called  the  pescadores. 

Along  this  street  are  many  stores,  billiard  rooms,  pulperias, 
or  tippling  shops,  which  are  rendezvous  for  idle  sailors,  negroes, 
and  the  lowest  order  of  the  population.  These  places  are  the 
scenes  of  all  manner  of  vice;  gambling,  drunkenness,  and  the 
natural  consequents,  quarrels,  and  sometimes  even  murder.  At 
night  the  sounds  of  bacchanalian  mirth,  and  drunken  uproar, 
are  heard  till  a  very  late  hour.  To  the  eastward  several  streets 
have  lately  sprung  up.  The  houses  are  small,  but  comparative- 
ly commodious;  at  almost  every  door  is  tied  by  a  leg,  a  game 
cock  or  two,  crowing  and  scratching  all  day  long; — fighting 
cocks  is  a  very  favorite  and  general  amusement  with  all  the  in- 
habitants. 

The  market  place  consists  of  an  open  square,  in  which  are 
erected  a  few  booths  for  butcher's  meat  and  vegetables.  The 
market  women,  mostly  Indians  and  mulattoes,  spread  out  their 
fruits  and  vegetables  on  mats  or  ponchos,  on  the  ground,  and 
separate  them  into  little  parcels,  worth  a  real  each.  Potatoes 
are  sold  at  from  three  to  eight  for  a  real  j*  eggs  at  from  three 


(iold. 


*  Coins  of  Peru. 

'  Onza,          equal  to 

$17  00 

Media  Onza,     do. 

8  50 

Doblon,             do. 

4  25 

Escudo,            do. 

2  12* 

i,  Kscudillo,         do. 

1 

NOTICES  OP  PERU.  187 

to  six ;  tomatoes  and  beans  are  measured  in  gou^d  dishes  of  an 
arbitrary  size,  according  to  the  views  of  the  venders.  For  once 
the  scene  is  amusing;  frequently  the  market  women  have  their 
young  children  slung  in  the  shawl  or  poncho,  on  the  back, 
while  seated  flat  on  the  ground,  with  one  foot  resting  beneath 
the  ham  of  the  other  leg,  which  is  extended,  and  bare  nearly 
to  the  knee.  The  hair  is  worn  in  three  long  braids,  hanging 
down  behind.  The  heaps  of  fruit  of  every  kind  are  sometimes 
so  numerous,  and  disposed  so  irregularly  over  the  ground,  that 
it  requires  care  in  wending  the  way,  not  to  stumble  into  a  heap 
of  eggs,  or  a  basket  of  cherimoyas.  A  constant  talking,  carried 
on  in  long,  drawling,  nasal  tones,  seems  to  indicate  an  amiable 
docility,  though  they  are  generally  alive  to  their  own  interests, 
and  not  unfrequently  sell  articles  for  less  than  one  half  of  the 
price  first  demanded.  Several  kinds  of  excellent  fish  are  sold 
in  this  market ;  the  corvina,  the  flounder,  and  the  pampano,  are 
best;  the  latter,  caught  only  at  Chorillos,  is  not  always  to  be 
obtained,  and  is  so  highly  esteemed,  that  one  weighing  eight 
or  ten  pounds,  readily  commands  five  or  six  dollars.  The  beef 
possesses  more  flavor,  and  is  perhaps  better  than  at  any  other 
place  on  the  coast.  The  mutton  is  excellent.  Poultry  is  dear, 
and  with  the  exception  of  ducks,  is  very  inferior  in  flavor. 

The  purlieus  of  the  plaza  are  peopled  with  dogs  and  buzzards, 
that  hover  round  to  pick  up  whatever  falls  in  their  way.  Bul- 
locks are  slaughtered  in  the  open  road,  just  outside  of  the  town, 
and  the  meat,  after  being  dressed,  is  brought  to  the  shambles 
on  jackasses,  or  in  carts. 

Along  the  eastern  side  of  Callao,  is  a  "tapia"  (mud  wall),  for- 
merly used  as  a  defence,  but  now  entirely  abandoned.  A  canal, 
running  along  side  of  the  Lima  road,  supplies  the  place,  as  well 
as  the  shipping,  with  water ;  for  the  latter,  it  is  brought  to  the 

T  Peso,           equal  to  $1  00 

I  Dos  reales,     do.  25 

Silver.^  Real,              do.  12£ 

Medio,           do.  6£ 

fc  Cuartillo,       do.  3 

There  is  neither  copper  nor  paper  money  in  the  Republic. 


188  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

mole  in  wooden  conduits,  where  it  is  very  readily  filled  into 
casks,  without  removing  them  from  the  boat.  Just  outside  of 
the  tapia  is  a  sort  of  lock,  where,  from  morning  till  night,  are 
assembled  negro  and  white  women,  washing  linen  by  the  pro- 
cess (not  the  most  approved)  of  pounding  it  with  stones,  and 
spreading  it  out  on  the  neighboring  green.  Horses  are  also 
carried  there  to  drink  and  to  be  washed  ;  all  of  which,  it  is 
thought,  does  not  impair  the  good  qualities  of  the  water  for 
most  domestic  purposes. 

On  working  days  and  holy-days,  Callao  presents  an  active 
scene.  During  business  hours,  the  basin,  formed  by  the  mole, 
is  covered  with  launches  and  boats.  The  mole  is  piled  up  with 
boxes  and  bales  of  merchandise;  large  heaps  of  wheat,  some- 
times containing  thousands  of  bushels  ;  mules  and  asses,  loading 
and  unloading ;  merchants  and  clerks ;  guards  and  custom  house 
officers — all  crowded  upon  it,  each  pushing  and  jostling  his 
way,  and  overcoming  all  resistance.  Amidst  the  trampled  dust, 
no  very  idle  part  is  enacted  by  the  millions  of  fleas,  on  the 
feet  and  ankles  of  all  who  intrude  upon  them.  A  sentinel  stands 
at  the  landing  slip,  opposite  to  which  is  a  sort  of  sentry-box, 
where  the  officers  of  the  guard  lounge,  and  smoke  paper  cigars, 
through  the  twenty-four  hours.  At  night  the  posts  are  increas- 
ed, and  no  person  is  permitted  to  land  or  embark  after  eight 
o'clock,  without  special  permission  from  the  captain  of  the  port. 

The  street  presents  negroes  in  dirty,  tattered  ponchos,  slouch- 
ed straw  hats,  bragas,  or  large  bottomed  breeches,  bare  legs, 
and  raw  hide  sandals  on  the  feet.  The  women  ride  astride, 
and  display  a  superior  knowledge  of  horsemanship.  The  men 
wear  short  jackets,  and  are  constantly  smoking  cigars;  officers 
of  the  garrison,  in  gay  uniforms,  saunter  about  on  foot,  or  are 
seen  on  splendid  steeds,  handsomely  caparisoned,  curvetting 
and  caracoling  through  the  streets. 

The  appearance  of  Callao  is  by  no  means  favorable,  and  no 
one  would  ever  suspect  its  being  other  than  a  very  disagreea- 
ble place.  Strangers  generally  dislike  it  very  much,  which  is 
not  surprising,  for  there  is  little  or  no  society  to  be  found,  except 
in  the  summer,  when  a  few  families  resort  thither  for  the  pur- 
pose of  sea  bathing,  of  which  the  Peruvians  are  passionately 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  189 

fond.  At  that  time  tcrtfilias  arc  formed,  generally  ending  in 
gambling  parties,  in  which  ladies  and  gentlemen  promiscuously 
engage.  Foreigners  amuse  themselves  in  walking,  playing  bil- 
liards, or  bowles,  for  which  there  are  several  alleys. 

The  site  of  old  Callao,  which  is  between  Castle  Independence 
and  the  south  battery,  is,  like  Golgotha,  a  place  of  skulls  and 
human  bones.  The  vaulted  roofs  of  some  of  the  churches  still 
remain,  and  are  on  a  level  with  the  surface.  Into  these  all  the 
bodies  of  those  who  died  during  the  siege  and  blockade  of  1S25, 
were  thrown,  without  changing  the  dress  in  which  they  expired 
or  were  killed.  Many  of  the  bodies  are  shrivelled  and  dried, 
but  show  no  sign  of  putrefaction  having  taken  place.  Here 
were  buried  the  family  of  Torre  Tagle,  Marquis  of  Truxillo, 
who  perished  in  the  castle,  with  many  others,  from  famine. 
Provisions  became  so  scarce  towards  the  close  of  the  siege, 
that  the  marquis,  it  is  said,  gave  a  jewel,  worth  §30,000,  for 
a  single  chicken !  The  bones  now  seen,  are  of  those  who  pe- 
rished at  that  time,  and  were  not  washed  out  by  the  sea,  as  has 
been  suggested,  for  it  rarely  reaches  where  they  are.* 

About  the  year  1650,  Callao  contained  six  hundred  Spanish 
families,  besides  Indians,  Mestizos,  Mulattoes  and  Negroes ; 
also  four  convents,  viz.,  Santo  Domingo,  San  Francisco,  San 
Augustin,  La  Merced,  and  a  house  of  Jesuits.t 


*  Morrel's  Voyages. 

|  Albores  del  Sol  del  Nuevo  Mundo. 


190  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  II. 


Ride  to  Lima — The  Road — Monument — Bellavista — Treasure — Church  of 
Palms — Market  women — Sambo  de  la  Legua — Church — Negroes  dancing 
— Mules  and  asses — Alameda  de  la  Portada — Meet  a  pleasure  party — Lima 
gate — Entrance  to  the  city — Animas — First  view  of  "  the  street  of  Callao." 

The  road  to  Lima  is  nearly  a  straight  line,  drawn  over  an 
inclined  plane,  which  gradually  rises  from  the  sea,  till  it  is  lost 
in  the  base  of  the  hills  of  Amancaes  and  San  Cristoval.  Though 
to  the  eye  the  road  from  Callao  appears  to  be  perfectly  level, 
the  great  plaza  of  Lima  stands  one  hundred  and  seventy  varas 
(Spanish  yards)*  above  the  sea.  It  was  constructed  by  the  vice- 
roy, Don  Ambrosio  O'Higgins,  in  1799,  and  had  the  original 
plan  been  carried  out,  would  have  rivaled  any  thing  of  the  kind 
in  South  America.  A  low  brick  wall  or  curb  runs  along  each 
side  of  a  centre  road,  whose  surface  is  two  or  three  feet  above 
carriage  roads,  which  are  on  either  side.  This  arrangement  is 
not  complete  through  the  whole  extent,  but  is  interrupted,  and 
a  part  of  the  distance  is  travelled  on  the  lateral  roads,  which, 
I  believe,  were  originally  designed  to  be  the  beds  of  streams. 
The  greater  part  of  the  way  is  covered  with  loose  pebbles, 
giving  it  no  very  distant  resemblance  to  a  shingle  beach. 

I  joined  a  party  on  horseback,  soon  after  arriving  in  the 
roads — sorry  stumbling  nags  we  found — and  set  off  in  the 
morning  for  the  capital,  far  farmed  once  as  "  City  of  Kings," 
afterwards  as  "  City  of  the  Free,"  but  still  more  widely  known 
by  the  original  name,  Lima.  We  were  soon  out  of  Callao,  and 
found  the  road  running  in  a  straight  line ;  and  on  the  right  and 
behind  us,  when  fairly  on  the  way,  was  the  gate  and  draw- 
bridge of  El  Castillo  de  la  Independencia.  Curiosity  carried 
our  eyes  in  every  direction.  To  the  right,  all  round  the  castle 
to  the  sea,  was  an  irregular  shingle,  and  to  the  left,  a  broad, 
green  meadow,  covered  with  rank  grass,  spread  itself  to  the 
view.    Just  at  the  skirts  of  Callao,  and  at  the  beginning  of  the 

*  Equal  to  32  English  inches. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  191 

road,  were  planted  two  or  three  posts,  around  which  were  offal 
and  a  number  of  dogs,  with  other  appearances  marking  the 
spot  where  beef  is  slaughtered  for  the  market. 

After  we  had  passed  the  women  washing  at  the  lock  of  the 
canal,  the  first  figures  we  saw  were  two  soldiers  on  foot,  mak- 
ing their  way  towards  Callao.  They  wore  tall,  compressed, 
blue  cloth  caps,  with  red  bands  and  without  vizier,  coarse  gray 
pantaloons,  made  full,  resembling  the  dress  worn  in  some  of 
our  state  prisons,  and  short  blue  jackets.  Their  complexion 
was  dark  mulatto.  They  trudged  along  the  canal,  barefoot, 
with  a  bundle  hanging  on  a  stick  over  the  shoulder,  appearing 
like  men  fatigued  from  a  long  march.  The  next  object  that 
engaged  our  attention  was  a  cross,  erected  on  a  square  pedestal, 
to  the  right  of  the  road,  and  about  halfway  between  Bellavista 
and  Callao,  which  is  said  to  mark  the  spot  where  the  sea  reach- 
ed in  the  great  earthquake  of  1746 ;  and  some  add,  that  a  fri- 
gate was  thrown  there  at  the  time  by  the  force  of  the  waves. 
A  few  years  since,  Bellavista  was  a  flourishing  village.  It  was 
built  in  1747,  and  intended  to  be  the  port,  but  in  the  course 
of  time,  the  terror  caused  by  the  great  earthquake  wore  away, 
and  the  present  Callao  grew  up.  This  checked  the  improve- 
ment of  Bellavista.  Frequent  earthquakes,  the  bombardings 
from  the  castle,  its  alternate  possession  by  the  royalist  and  pa- 
triot troops,  during  the  war  of  the  revolution,  have  left  it  a 
heap  of  ruins,  which  shelter  some  few  Indian  and  negro  fa- 
milies. Between  Bellavista  and  the  cross  just  mentioned,  are 
the  remains  of  a  breast  work,  thrown  up  and  defended  by  the 
patriots  when  General  Rodil  was  in  possession  of  the  castles. 

Presently  we  met  a  drove  of  mules,  laden  with  silver,  and 
guarded  by  a  half  dozen  soldiers — some  of  African,  and  others 
of  Indian  origin.  This  treasure,  amounting  to  eighty  thousand 
dollars,  was  about  being  shipped  to  England.  Close  after 
them  came  a  troop  of  asses,  almost  completely  hidden  in  stacks 
of  green  alfalfa* — a  species  of  trefoil  highly  nutritious  to  horses 
— aptly  enough  compared  to  the  moving  of  "  Birnam  wood." 

On  the  left,  we  came  up  to  La  Iglesia  de  las  Palmas — the 

*  Mendicago  satiaa  of  botanists. 


192  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

church  of  Palms,  or  Baquijano,  which,  in  1825,  served  as  an 
ambush  for  the  patriots  in  a  sharp  skirmish  with  a  royal  party 
from  the  castles.  On  that  day,  from  Lima  gates  to  Callao,  the 
road  was  strewed  with  dead.  The  cruel  Rodil  would  not  con- 
sent to  the  bodies  being  buried — they  laid  there  till  the  buz- 
zards and  vultures  removed  them  ! 

A  party  of  market  people,  closely  followed  by  one  of  plea- 
sure, passed  us.  The  market  women  were  mounted  on  asses, 
with  saddles  made  high  and  square  on  top,  with  pillions  of 
sheep  skins,  tanned  with  the  wool  on.  The  samba  women 
were  seated  astride,  presenting,  from  the  great  breadth  of  the 
saddle,  a  most  grotesque  appearance.  The  well  expanded  leg, 
cased  in  a  silk  stocking,  was  visible  to  the  knee.  The  foot,  set 
off  in  a  green  or  particolored  slipper,  and  armed  with  a  great 
spur,  was  constantly  swung  with  a  careless  air  against  the  sides 
of  the  patient  donkey.  A  figured  calico  gown,  and  a  large 
cotton  shawl,  with  the  right  corner  flung  over  the  left  shoulder, 
and  a  high  crowned  Guayaquil  hat,  tied  under  the  chin  with  a 
black  ribbon,  the  rim  being  left  free,  completed  the  costume. 
Some  had  large  panniers  of  fruit  slung  to  the  sides  of  their  beasts, 
and  others  had  two  sheep  ready  for  the  market,  tied  together 
by  the  hind  legs,  hung  over  the  saddle  bow.  Some  had  their 
infant  children  with  them,  suspended  over  the  back  in  a  shawl 
or  poncho.  These  women  were  mostly  embonpoint,  or  even 
corpulent,  with  round,  shining  faces  and  placid  countenances. 

The  pleasure  party  was  also  of  the  sambo  caste.  The  wo- 
men were  laughing,  and  prancing  along  on  spirited  horses,  ac- 
companied by  sambos  and  negroes.  The  females  were  dressed 
in  white  gowns,  white  ponchos,  Manila  hats,  highly  glazed 
and  decorated,  with  a  bow  and  band  of  black  ribbon,  secured 
under  the  chin,  (the  rim  floating  free),  silk  hose,  gay  colored 
slippers  and  spurs.  The  hair  was  frizzed  over  the  shoulders, 
and  thickly  sprinkled  with  jasmine  flowers.  They  sat  astride, 
and  managed  their  horses  admirably.  The  beaux  also  wore 
Manila  hats,  white  ponchos,  and  white  jean  pantaloons.  Their 
heavy  spurs,  with  rowels  not  less  than  two  inches  in  diameter, 
were  supported  by  a  leathern  heel  piece.  At  a  distance  i!  was 
diilicult  to  distinguish  the  women  from  the  men,  and  when  near, 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  193 

nothing  but  the  bare  leg  of  the  female  pointed  out  the  differ- 
ence of  sex ! 

We  had  scarcely  passed  this  party,  when  an  officer  and  two 
soldiers  shot  by  us  in  full  gallop  for  Lima.  We  learned  after- 
wards, that  it  was  a  lieutenant,  bearing  an  ordinary  despatch 
from  Callao  to  the  government. 

We  stopped  at  the  half  way  house,  and  indeed  our  horses 
were  so  accustomed  to  halt  there,  that  they  trotted  up  to  the 
shed  of  their  own  free  will.  The  "tambo  de  la  Legua"  is  a 
pulperia  at  which  most  travellers  rest  for  a  few  minutes.  Be- 
side it  stands  a  church,  called  La  Legua,  (hence  the  name  of 
the  tambo),  at  the  door  of  which  was  an  image  of  the  Virgin, 
standing  on  a  table,  with  a  crucifix  and  a  silver  plate  before  it, 
half  full  of  "  reales"  and  "medios."  A  friar,  in  a  coarse  tunic, 
with  a  long  beard  and  shaven  crown,  stood  near,  begging  alms 
for  "  la  santisima  Virgen" — the  most  holy  Virgin,  and  extend- 
ing the  crucifix  to  be  kissed  by  all  those  who  bestowed  charity 
in  the  silver  plate. 

The  tambo  is  a  low,  one  story  building,  bearing  the  marks 
of  great  age  ;  the  large  opening  in  front,  like  a  huge  window, 
from  which  liquors  and  cigars  are  dispensed  at  low  prices,  is 
worn  by  the  frequent  handling  of  customers.  On  the  counter, 
which  may  be  compared  to  a  broad  window  sill,  there  are  always 
burning  two  or  three  knots  of  wood  for  the  convenience  of 
lighting  cigars.  The  roof  extends  out  in  front,  affording  an 
ample  shade  for  those  who  stop  to  partake  of  the  "  good  things" 
provided.  On  either  side  of  this  shed  is  a  low  adobe  seat,  for 
the  accommodation  of  foot  passengers.  No  customer  ever 
enters  the  door — a  wise  precaution  against  the  inebriated,  who 
are  not  to  be  trusted  amongst  bottles  and  glasses. 

The  scene  at  the  tambo  was  curiously  contrasted  with  the 
religiously  grave  friar  and  holy  Virgin.  Though  not  twenty 
yards  apart,  there  was  a  party  of  negroes,  men  and  women, 
with  scarcely  tatters  enough  to  hide  their  nakedness,  wriggling 
fandangos  under  the. shed,  to  the  music  of  a  rude  harp,  played 
by  an  old,  frosty  headed  negro,  accompanied  by  the  nasal, 
twanging  voices  of  black  wenches,  who  also  beat  time  with 
their  palms  on  the  body  of  the  instrument.  Both  men  and 
25 


194  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

women  were  bare  legged  to  the  knee.  The  former  wore  large, 
full  bottomed  bragas,  or  breeches,  and  long  woollen  ponchos, 
with  tall,  sugar-loaf-crowned,  Guayaquil  hats.  Their  legs  were 
of  the  true  negro  formation  ;  the  calf  gathered  up  close  to  the 
knee,  and  a  long,  slim  shank,  attached  to  a  broad,  flat  foot,  with 
the  heels  extending  almost  as  far  behind  as  the  toes  did  forward. 
The  women  had  on  ragged  woollen  petticoats,  plaited  full  round 
the  waist ;  the  bust  was  but  illy  concealed  in  a  dingy  chemise  ; 
the  arms  were  bare  ;  a  handkerchief  or  shawl  was  girt  around 
the  hips,  so  as  to  draw  the  petticoat  smooth  over  the  abdomen, 
and  gather  it  up  full  behind,  and  shorten  it  withal.  The  hands 
were  sometimes  akimbo,  sometimes  flung  in  the  air,  and  the 
figures  leaned  forward  as  they  advanced  and  retreated  in  the 
dance.  The  step  was  an  awkward  movement  of  quickly  cross- 
ing one  foot  over  the  other  in  front,  without  lifting  it  high 
from  the  ground,  only  varied  by  an  occasional  hop,  and  accom- 
panied by  an  indescribable  wriggling  of  the  hips.  The  dance 
was  disgustingly  lascivious,  and  the  voices  of  the  females 
coarse  and  disagreeable.  The  whole  party  were  excited  by 
frequent  potations  of  pisco  and  chicha. 

There  were  two  Peruvian  officers,  of  high  rank,  smoking, 
and  looking  on  the  dance  with  great  gravity.  Their  gorge- 
ous uniforms,  almost  hidden  in  gold  embroidery,  contrasted 
strangely  with  the  squalid  garments  of  the  merry  negroes. 
Two  or  three  asses,  with  serious  faces,  stood  gazing  quietly 
on  the  scene.  One  water  carrier  leaned  his  head  on  his  arms, 
which  were  embracing  the  saddle  bow  of  his  donkey,  with  a 
leg  crossed  and  resting  on  the  ground.  His  countenance  was 
distorted  by  a  broad  smile  of  approbation,  that  seemed  to  be 
generating  at  the  very  bottom  of  his  heart.  The  steeds  of  the 
officers  looked  impatient,  neighed,  pawed  the  earth,  and  threw 
up  their  heads. 

Before  we  left  the  tambo,  two  stage  coaches  drove  up ;  one 
from  Lima,  the  other  from  Callao.  Both  were  filled  with  fo- 
reigners, and  one  was  completely  shrouded  in  tobacco  smoke. 
Smoking  in  Peru  is  universal  ;  even  ladies  of  the  better  classes 
are  not  exempt  from  this  practice. 

Alter  ten  minutes'  rest,  we  again  mounted,  and  pushed  on 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  195 

towards  the  capital.  Parties  similar  to  those  we  had  met,  passed 
us,  with  now  and  then  a  "  valcncin,"  which  is  a  two  wheeled 
carriage,  drawn  hy  two  mules  abreast,  on  one  of  which  a  postil- 
lion rides.  When  new  and  in  fine  order,  this  vehicle  is  a  calesa ; 
but  worn  for  some  time,  it  degenerates  into  a  "  valencin,"  as 
private  carriages,  in  the  course  of  time,  dwindle  into  hackney 
coaches  in  the  United  States.  We  overtook  a  drove  of  asses, 
laden  with  kegs.  Two  were  too  much  for  a  single  ass,  so. that 
a  large  stone  was  slung  on  one  side  to  balance  the  keg  on  the 
other.  This  plan  is  not  unfrequently  adopted  by  the  "arrieros," 
or  muleteers,  when  the  packages  are  too  large  to  be  carried  in 
pairs  by  a  mule  or  donkey.  Mules  generally  carry  two  barrels 
of  flour  at  a  load,  from  Callao  to  Lima,  a  distance  of  seven 
miles,  over  a  stony  road. 

To  the  right  and  left  of  the  road  are  seen  large  mounds  of 
earth,  termed  Huacas,  which  are  the  remaining  monuments 
of  the  ancient  Peruvians.  Until  it  approaches  within  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  of  the  city  gate,  the  Lima  road  is  an  unpleasant  one. 
To  the  right  it  is  flanked  by  high  mud  walls,  and  on  the  left 
is  a  meadow  overgrown  in  places  with  cane  brakes,  which, 
some  years  ago,  were  the  ambuscades  of  highwaymen.  Near 
the  metropolis,  the  country  assumes  a  more  smiling  aspect. 
The  dusty  highway  becomes  an  avenue  of  double  rows  of  wil- 
low trees,  with  bubbling  streams  running  on  either  hand. 
Stone  seats  are  conveniently  placed  beneath  their  shade  in  the 
side  alleys,  which  are  lower  than  the  main  road.  On  each 
side  the  garden  walls  are  overhung  by  orange,  lemon,  citron, 
and  palta  trees  ; — the  air  is  redolent  with  the  odors  of  the 
cherimoya  and  orange  ;  its  stillness,  even  at  noon,  is  broken 
by  the  various  notes  of  the  feathered  tribes.  Large  circles  are 
placed  equidistant  on  the  road,  to  the  number  of  four,  called 
"  ovalos,"  designated  as  first,  second,  &c,  beginning  at  the 
gate.  The  road  cuts  them  diametrically,  leaving  a  semicircle 
on  each  side,  surrounded  by  a  stone  seat.  The  round  base  of 
stone  in  the  centre  of  each  "  ovalo,"  was  intended  to  be  a  foun- 
tain. This  avenue  is  called,  "  La  Alameda  de  la  Portada." 
Here>  morning  and  evening,  are  seen  people  enjoying  the 
"  paseo  j"  civilians  and  military  men ;  churchmen  and  laymen, 


196  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  women  of  every  caste  and  rank  in  society.  But  it  is  sel- 
dom crowded,  except  on  feast  days.  When  we  passed,  we  only 
saw  a  Franciscan  friar,  strolling  along,  in  conversation  with  a 
negro  woman,  carrying  a  basket  of  oranges  on  her  head. 

Not  far  from  the  gate,  we  met  a  group  of  natives  on  horse- 
back. The  gentlemen  were  in  short  white  jackets,  full  white 
pantaloons,  the  ponchos  hanging  carelessly  over  one  arm,  Ma- 
nila hats,  fastened  with  black  ties  under  the  chin,  and  the  heels 
armed  with  long  shanked  silver  spurs.  The  horses  of  all  were 
caparisoned  strictly  after  the  fashion  of  the  country.  The  sad- 
dle rises  high  before  and  behind,  and  is  covered  with  blue  pil- 
lions, secured  by  girths,  forming  a  deep  seat,  from  which  it  is 
difficult  to  be  thrown,  because  the  front  corners  of  the  saddle 
curve  backwards  over  the  thighs,  forming  for  them  a  complete 
case.  The  stirrups  are  of  pyramidal  blocks  of  dark  wood, 
carved  in  various  figures,  and  the  corners  are  covered  with 
plates  of  silver.  In  one  side  a  hole  is  scooped  out  to  receive 
the  foot.  A  broad  piece  of  leather,  cut  into  a  sort  of  filigree 
figures,  extends  from  the  back  of  the  saddle  to  the  tail,  and  a 
similar  piece  passes  round  the  hams  and  flank,  which  gives  to 
this  furniture  the  appearance  of  that  of  a  coach  horse.  The 
whole  is  ornamented  with  silver  buckles  and  rings,  and  the 
head  piece  with  a  profusion  of  studs  of  the  same  metal.  The 
ladies,  who  were  of  the  middle  age,  sat  straight  in  their  sad- 
dles, which  were  in  all  respects  like  those  of  the  men,  except 
that  the  stirrups  were  silver,  and  the  reins  were  of  a  finer  tex- 
ture. They  wore  full  ponchos,  which  covered  the  upper  part 
of  the  figure  ;  that  of  the  youngest,  who  was  perhaps  twenty 
years  of  age,  was  striped  in  a  flowered  pattern  of  gay  colors. 
The  hair  hung  in  braids  down  the  back  from  under  the  Ma- 
nila hat,  which  sat  square  on  the  head.  Fine  white  pantalets, 
fringed  with  lace  at  the  bottom,  a  white  silk  sock  and  satin 
slipper,  set  off  a  beautiful  foot,  armed  with  a  golden  spur.  The 
party  consisted  of  six  persons.  Their  horses  were  spirited,  and 
the  ladies  managed  them  with  perfect  skill,  now  checking,  and 
touching  them  at  the  same  time  with  the  spur,  causing  the  ani- 
mal to  throw  up  his  head  proudly  and  dance  off  to  one  side  ; 
now,  giving  rein  and  spur  at  the  same  time,  dash  off  at  a  full 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  197 

gallop  for  a  hundred  yards,  and  then  check  him  into  a  sudden 
halt.  The  men  played  off  their  steeds  in  the  same  manner, 
wheeling  and  caracoling  about  the  ladies.  The  faces  of  all  were 
animated  by  smiles  and  gay  conversation.  The  females  were 
brunettes,  and  seemed  full  of  enjoyment.  The  party  dashed 
by  us  at  a  full  gallop,  the  long  tails  of  their  horses,  and  the 
ponchos  and  hair  streaming  behind  them.* 

Such  were  the  groups  met  with  on  the  road,  going  in  one 
direction  or  the  other.  Sometimes  the  whole  road  appeared 
choked  with  asses  loaded  with  fresh  cut  grass.  Again,  a  "re- 
cua,"  or  drove  of  unladen  mules,  were  urged  on  at  a  full  gal- 
lop by  the  "arriero,"  sitting  erect  in  his  saddle,  head  up, 
poncho  knotted  round  his  waist,  the  reins  of  the  mule  held 
high  over  its  head  with  the  left  hand,  while  with  the  right  he 
whirled  over  his  own  head  a  long  thong  of  hide.  His  legs,  at 
every  spring  of  the  animal,  struck  the  huge  rowels  into  the 
mule's  sides.  As  he  sprang  forward,  wheeling  from  one  side 
of  the  road  to  the  other,  to  keep  his  mules  together,  he  cried, 
"arre  mula — grandisima  *  *  *  !"  evincing,  with  the  last  re- 
proachful epithet,  his  impatience,  by  a  heavy  discharge  of  his 
thong  on  the  back  of  the  hindmost  mule.  Then  away  they 
scampered,  the  dry  hide  "capachos,"  or  bags,  lashed  to  the 
pack  saddles,  clattering  at  a  great  rate  as  they  dashed  along. 

Again,  the  asses  presented  a  most  grotesque  appearance, 
piled  up  and  almost  concealed  beneath  baskets  of  poultry  and 
fruit,  or  whole  sheep  dressed  for  the  market.  Then  came  an 
old,  long  backed  "rocin,"  or  hack,  with  three  or  four  long 
legged,  lean  looking  Indians  seated  on  his  back,  from  his  neck 
to  his  tail.  And  certainly,  the  most  ugly  old  woman  I  ever 
saw,  was  seated  cross  legged  on  the  back  of  a  donkey,  and  a 
little  Indian  riding  behind  her. 

*  Whether  it  is  really  more  indelicate  for  a  female  than  for  a  male  to  ride 
astride,  I  am  not  called  upon  to  pronounce.  At  first,  it  does  not  square  with  our 
notions  of  propriety  ;  but  on  a  closer  examination,  I  could  discover  nothing  im- 
modest in  the  appearance  of  a  lady's  foot  and  ankle,  cased  in  a  pantalette,  nor 
did  it  seem  more  shocking  than  the  tightly  covered  leg  of  the  booted  cavalier. 
One  reason  in  favor  of  ladies  riding  after  this  fashion,  is  that  they  are  more 
secure  in  the  saddle,  and  need  less  the  assistance  of  an  attendant  caballero. 


198  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Now  and  then  we  saw  a  most  amicable  company  of  dogs  and 
"gallinazos,"  or  buzzards,  feasting  on  the  carcass  of  a  mule  or 
ass,  that  had  dropped  down  and  died  by  the  way.  I  have  seen 
these  birds  attack  the  body  of  a  mule  before  the  breath  had 
entirely  left  it,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours  leave  nothing 
but  the  skeleton  !  They  are  the  only  scavengers  in  Peru.  The 
law  protects  them  from  molestation  ;  a  fine  being  imposed  on 
any  person  who  may  wantonly  kill  one  of  the  tribe. 

The  entrance  into  Lima  is  through  a  huge  gate.  There  is  a 
large  centre  arch,  and  a  smaller  one  on  each  side,  which  are 
closed  at  night  with  massy  doors,  correspondent  to  the  arches 
in  size.  In  1825,  some  eulogistic  sentences  on  Bolivar  were 
written  over  the  great  entrance,  but  in  1S27,  the  tide  of  popu- 
lar feeling  having  turned  against  him,  his  name  was  blotted 
out,  and  that  of  La  Mar  substituted  ;  the  eulogy,  however, 
remaining  unchanged.  In  1829,  the  popularity  of  this  chief 
dwindled  away,  and  his  name  and  eulogy  are  now  washed 
over  with  lime; — sic  transit  gloria  mundi. 

On  the  left  side  of  the  gate  is  a  small  building,  occupied  by 
the  officers  of  the  Resguardo — that  department  of  the  custom 
house  which  is  constantly  on  the  alert  to  detect  and  prevent  illi- 
cit trade.  Here,  all  baggage,  and  every  package  of  goods,  are 
examined,  unless  accompanied  by  a  "  guia,"  or  permit,  from  the 
Aduana,  or  custom  house.  Here  also  a  toll  is  collected  for 
every  laden  mule  or  ass  that  passes  to  and  from  Lima. 

Two  long  mud  walls  stand  on  the  sides  of  the  street,  or  ra- 
ther avenue,  which  leads  into  the  "City  of  the  Free."  At 
about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  gate,  it  terminates  in  a  street, 
called  "La  calle  del  Callao."  The  first  thing  we  remarked, 
was  the  mean  appearance  of  the  houses,  and  the  heavy,  closed 
balconies,  jutting  out  in  front.  At  the  corners,  are  two  rude 
wooden  figures,  painted  red,  placed  about  twelve  feet  above 
the  ground,  with  a  representation  of  flames  curling  round  them. 
These  half  figures  have  the  hands  clasped  in  the  attitude  of 
prayer.  They  are  termed  "Animas,"  or  souls,  and  are  intend- 
ed as  mementos  of  the  torments  of  purgatory.  Similar  figures 
are  common  in  all  parts  of  the  city.     On  the  dead  wall  of  a 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  199 

house,  not  far  from  the  commencement  of  this  street,  is  a  rough 
picture  of  the  Devil  carrying  off  the  Saviour  to  the  Mount. 

In  spite  of  the  "dnimas,"  the  corner  houses  are  occupied 
as  grog  shops,  where  there  were  a  dozen  negroes,  men  and  wo- 
men, dancing  fandangos,  under  the  influence  of  pisco  or  Peru- 
vian brandy.  And,  as  if  to  aid  the  dnimas  in  their  pious  inten- 
tion of  rescuing  the  living  from  the  pains  of  the  damned,  there 
was  a  friar,  of  the  Order  of  Descalzos  (Barefooted),  in  a 
sackcloth  tunic  and  leather  girdle,  holding  in  one  hand  a  tin 
box  surmounted  by  a  cross,  having  a  slit  in  the  top  to  receive 
any  alms  that  might  be  bestowed,  while  in  the  other  he  held  a 
long  staff.  He  was  smiling  on  the  scene  before  him  ;  the  staff 
involuntarily  kept  time  to  the  music.  "  The  spirit  seemed 
willing,  but  the  flesh  luas  weak." 

As  we  proceeded  along  the  street,  for  several  cuddras,  or 
squares,  we  saw  many  figures  and  customs  which  to  us  were 
entirely  new.  The  fiat  roofs,  the  abrupt  termination  of  the 
walls  above,  the  faded  green  balconies,  the  great  doorways  and 
grated  windows,  and  the  dingy  white,  scaly  walls,  gave  an  im- 
pression of  poverty  and  seclusion.  The  windows  are  large,  and 
secured  on  the  outside  with  vertical  iron  bars,  placed  about 
four  inches  asunder ;  the  lower  part  is  shut  on  the  inside  with 
a  close  trellis,  generally  painted  green.  From  the  window 
projecting  a  few  inches  on  the  street,  and  the  walls  being  very 
thick,  the  sill  is  broad.  Behind  the  trellis,  which  hides  the  in- 
terior of  the  house  from  passers-by,  we  saw  females  seated  on 
the  broad  sill,  with  their  feet  drawn  up,  and  dresses  loose, 
smoking  cigars,  and  peeping  into  the  street.  The  balconies 
were  occupied  by  females  similarly  engaged.  As  we  rode 
along,  we  met  water  carriers  riding  on  donkeys,  officers  in 
gay  uniforms,  friars  of  several  orders,  women  in  saya  y  manto 
— in  short,  so  many  sights,  new  and  strange  to  us,  that  the  at- 
tention could  not  rest  long  enough  on  any  one  to  register  its 
peculiarities  in  the  mind. 

We  found  comfortable  lodgings,  not  far  from  the  plaza,  at  a 
hotel  kept  by  an  obliging  French  woman. 


200  TIIREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

CHAPTER  III. 

History  of  the  founding  of  Lima. 

Evert  circumstance  connected  with  the  founding  of  a  new 
empire  is  more  or  less  interesting.  It  is  curious  to  see  the  an- 
ticipations of  greatness,  displayed  by  the  founders,  in  the  care 
and  exactness  observed  in  the  planting  of  great  cities.  Fran- 
cisco Pizarro,  the  conqueror  of  Peru,  looked  forward,  no 
doubt,  with  feelings  of  exalted  interest,  to  the  day  when  "  the 
City  of  Kings"  should  be  as  magnificent  as  its  name  portended. 
And  when  he  traced  the  streets  and  squares  of  the  metropolis 
of  the  empire  he  had  won,  he  felt  that  his  name  would  pass  to 
future  ages  with  that  of  the  city  he  planned. 

Where  the  capital  should  be  placed  was  a  question  not  has- 
tily decided  upon.  Several  situations  were  tried  and  aban- 
doned, for  want  of  those  conveniences  and  resources  required 
by  the  inhabitants  of  a  great  city. 

In  the  year  1533,  the  site  of  an  Indian  village  called  Jauja 
— anciently  Xauxa,  which  is  about  forty  leagues  east  of  Lima, 
was  selected  as  the  capital  of  conquered  Peru.  In  the  first  few 
months,  an  university  and  several  public  institutions  were 
founded.  In  order  to  have  a  sea  port  for  this  city,  Pizarro 
despatched  Don  Nicolas  de  Ribera,  as  captain  and  lieutenant 
general,  to  take  possession  of  Pachacamao  in  the  name  of  the 
king,  and  to  leave  population  enough  on  the  coast  to  form  a 
town.  The  execution  of  this  order  gave  birth  to  the  town  of 
Sangallan,  thirty-five  leagues  to  the  south  of  Lima,  and  near 
Cafiete.  On  the  29th  of  November  1534,  the  situation  of 
Jauja  having  been  found  not  adapted  for  the  metropolis,  an  or- 
der was  obtained,  in  consequence  of  a  petition  from  the  Ca- 
bildo  and  the  Alcaldes,  to  move  the  city  to  Sangallan.  At  the 
expiration  of  ten  or  twelve  days,  they  became  dissatisfied  with 
this  change,  and  leaving  thirty  men  in  Sangallan,  marched  to 
the  village  of  Pachacamac.    Here  they  found  some  advantages 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  201 

and  many  inconveniences  for  the  location  of  their  city,  and 
while  discussing  the  matter  amongst  themselves,  the  valley  of 
Rimac  was  suggested  as  being  an  advantageous  position  for  the 
projected  capital.  Pizarro  then  appointed  three  commissioners, 
Rui  Diaz,  Juan  Tello,  and  Alonso  Martin  de  Don  Benito,  to 
go,  with  a  cacique  of  Rimac,  and  examine  the  valley.  The 
order  to  the  commissioners  is  dated  Pachacamac,  January  8th, 
1535.  At  the  end  of  six  days,  having  considered  the  several 
points,  of  the  vicinity  of  the  sea,  the  proximity  of  the  river, 
the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  amenity  of  the  skies,  they  re- 
turned, and  reported  that  they  had  selected  an  advantageous 
position  for  the  founding  of  a  capital. 

On  the  eighteenth  day  of  January  1535,  the  city  of  Lima 
was  founded,  under  the  name  of  "La  ciudad  de  los  Reyes," 
suggested,  as  many  suppose,  from  the  foundation  being  laid  on 
the  day  of  the  Epiphany.*  As  the  Spaniards  in  all  cases  paid 
a  profound  and  even  solemn  respect  to  the  forms  at  least  of  the 
Christian  religion,  Pizarro  having  marked  out  the  plaza  and 
general  plan  of  the  city,  laid  with  his  own  hands  the  corner 
stone  of  a  church,  which  he  dedicated  to  Our  Lady  of  the  As- 
sumption. This  church  is  now  the  cathedral  of  Lima.  But 
Pope  Paul  III.,  having  given  the  same  title  to  the  church  in 
Cuzco,  dedicated  this  to  St.  John  the  Evangelist. 

The  word  Rimac  was  changed  to  Lima  by  the  Spaniards, 
from  the  then  prevailing  habit  of  confounding,  in  pronun- 
ciation, the  R  and  the  L. 

Having  founded  the  city,  Pizarro  petitioned  the  Emperor 
Charles  V.  to  assign  to  it  a  coat  of  arms.  He  gave  the  three 
crowns  and  the  star  of  the  magi,  with  the  two  eagles  and  co- 
lumns of  the  Plus  Ultra,  and  the  two  letters,  I.  K.,  the  initials 
of  Juana  and  Carlos. 

When  the  city  was  founded,  only  twelve  Spaniards  were 
present ;  but  in  the  course  of  a  few  days,  thirty  came  from 


*  Herrera  follows  Garcilaso,  and  says,  that  Lima  was  founded  on  the  day  of 
the  Epiphany ;  but  Calancha,  Montalvo,  and  other  writers,  who  are  generally 
followed,  state,  that  it  was  on  the  eighteenth  of  January,  the  anniversary  of 
the  festival  of  St.  Peter's  chair.     Fide,  Frezier's  Voyage. 
26 


202  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Sangallan,  and  others  from  Jauja,  increasing  the  number  to 
seventy. 

The  valley  of  Rimac  was  inhabited,  previous  to  the  conquest, 
by  the  subjects  of  the  Grand  Chimu,  who  was  conquered  by 
the  Inca  Yupanqui.  In  this  valley  were  many  large  Huacas, 
of  which  there  are  extensive  remains  to  this  day.  The  Huaca 
of  Rimac,  or  "the  God  that  speaks,"  was  near  the  garden  or 
orchard  of  the  convent  of  Santo  Domingo,  formerly  called 
La  chacra  de  Rimactanpu,  now  Limatambo.  The  term 
Rimac  is  the  opposite  of  Pachacamac,  which  designates  the 
God  who  created  the  world  and  gave  life  to  the  universe,  but 
who  was  never  heard  nor  seen.  The  ruins  of  the  temple  of 
Pachacamac  still  remain,  and  are  visited  by  all  travellers  in 
Peru.  It  is  supposed  by  some,  that  the  valley  Rimac  derived 
its  name  from  the  noise  made  by  the  river  in  its  brawling 
course;  but  the  Fray  Calancha  tells  us,  that  he  inquired  of  an 
old  Indian  who  was  governor  of  Magdalena,  why  they  called 
it  Rimac.  He  replied;  "Art  thou,  perchance,  one  of  those 
who  believe  that  it  is  so  called  on  account  of  the  river?  The 
God  whom  my  ancestors  adored  was  thus  named,  because  he 
spoke  to  them  and  answered  their  questions,  which  was  never 
known  of  the  Huaca  of  Pachacamac;  and,  therefore,  in  honor 
of  their  God,  they  called  his  valley  Rimac."  This  explana- 
tion was  never  contradicted  by  any  one  of  the  many  Indians  of 
whom  Calancha  asked  the  meaning  of  the  term. 

The  above  account  is  given  on  the  authority  of  Francisco 
Antonio  Montalvo,  (Life  of  Santo  Torribio,  written  in  1683, 
and  printed  by  the  procurement  of  Doctor  Don  Juan  Francisco 
de  Valladolid,  under  the  title  of  "  Albores  del  Sol  del  nuevo 
mundo ;")  of  Fray  Antonio  de  la  Calancha,  ("Choronica  del 
orden  de  San  Augustin  ;)  of  Garcilaso  ("  Comentarios  Reales ;") 
of  Antonio  de  Herrera  ("  Historia  de  las  Indias;")  and  of  Pe- 
ralta,  ("  Lima  Fundada,  o'  Conquista  del  Peru,"  an  epic  poem, 
printed  at  Lima,  1732). 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  203 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Topography  and  climate  of  Lima — Plan  and  di%'isions  of  the  city — Walls — 
Distribution  of  property — Population — Religious  communities. 


Lima,  or  as  it  is  now  occasionally  styled,  in  the  grandilo- 
quence inherited  from  the  "  father  land,"  "  City  of  the  Free," 
is  built  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river  Rimac,  which  sepa- 
rates it  from  the  suburb  of  San  Lazaro.  It  is  sheltered  to  the 
north  and  east  by  the  hills  of  Amancaes  and  San  Cristoval, 
which  may  be  considered  as  mountain  spurs  of  the  x\ndes,  the 
great  chain  of  which  runs,  north  and  south,  about  twenty 
leagues  east  of  the  city.  When  the  sky  is  clear,  their  snowy 
peaks  are  seen,  not  only  from  Lima,  but  from  a  long  distance 
at  sea.  San  Cristoval  rises  1170  feet,  and  Amancaes  2560  feet, 
above  the  level  of  the  Ocean.* 

The  cross  erected  on  the  summit  of  San  Cristoval,  is  to  com- 
memorate a  signal  victory,  gained  over  the  Indians  by  the 
Spaniards,  through  the  miraculous  aid  of  that  saint.  About  two 
years  after  the  founding  of  Lima,  there  was  a  general  rise  of 
the  Indians  throughout  Peru.  Cuzco  was  besieged,  and  seven- 
ty thousand  Indians  occupied  the  northern  bank  of  the  Rimac. 
In  order  to  be  free  from  the  action  of  the  Spanish  cavalry,  the 
great  body  of  the  Peruvian  army  was  stationed  on  the  hill  in 
question.  Whenever  they  poured  down  the  hill  to  the  attack, 
the  river  suddenly  rose,  and  many  were  drowned  ;  but  when  the 
Spaniards  advanced,  commending  themselves,  as  they  rushed 
forward,  to  the  care  of  San  Cristoval  and  Santiago,  the  waters 
remained  shallow,  to  the  great  dismay  of  their  enemies,  "  being 
to  them,"  says  Garcilaso,  "  what  the  Red  Sea  was  to  the  Phili- 
stines."t 


•  Unanue".  Observaciones  sobre  el  clima  de  Lima.  Madrid.  1815. 
■J-  Garcilaso.  Comentarios  Reales.  Lib.  2.  cap.  28. 


204  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

To  the  south  and  west,  Lima  is  open  to  the  breezes  which 
blow  from  that  quarter  over  the  bosom  of  the  Pacific,  cooling 
the  air  of  summer,  and  clearing  away  the  fogs  and  mists  which 
hang  heavy  over  the  city  in  the  winter. 

From  the  stone  bridge,  built  in  1G10,  over  the  river,  is  a 
beautiful  view  of  the  Rimac,  which  in  winter  is  but  a  brawling 
brook,  split  into  streams  by  a  number  of  pebbly  islands,  which 
sprinkle  its  bed;  while  in  summer,  when  it  is  swollen  by  the 
melting  snows  of  the  Cordilleras,  it  rushes  impetuously  to  the 
sea.  On  the  left  bank,  looking  to  the  southward,  are  seen  the 
Alameda  del  Acho,  and  the  snowy  peaks  of  the  Andes,  tower- 
ing far  above  the  cross  of  San  Cristoval ;  on  the  right  are  the 
Convent  of  San  Francisco,  with  its  garden  and  out  buildings, 
and  beyond  the  precincts  of  the  city,  the  Pantheon,  half  hidden 
amidst  gardens  and  trees.  The  view  is  closed  by  mountains, 
rising  one  above  the  other,  till  the  most  distant  seem  to  sup- 
port the  blue  vault.  To  the  northward,  the  eye  is  lost  amongst 
valleys  and  hills,  and  to  the  west,  the  immense  Pacific  expands 
away  till  it  meets  the  arching  sky. 

The  climate  of  Lima  is  perhaps  the  most  flattering  in  the 
world.  The  soil  and  skies  have  been  themes  of  praise  both 
with  historians  and  poets. 

"  En  su  horizonte  el  Sol  todo  es  Aurora; 
Eterna  el  tiempo  todo  es  primavera  j 
Solo  es  risa  del  cielo  cada  hora ; 
Cada  mes  es  cuenta  de  la  esphera: 
Son  cada  viento  un  halito  de  Flora, 
Cada  arroyo  una  Musa  lisonjera  ; 
Y  los  vergeles,  que  el  confin  le  debe, 
Nubes  fragantes  con  que  al  cielo  llueve  !"• 

This  valley  may  be  said  to  enjoy  an  eternal  spring,  for  vege- 
tation and  fructification  are  constantly  going  forward.  We  see 
in  the  same  garden,  one  tree  putting  forth  its  tender  blossoms, 
while  another  is  bending  beneath  its  matured  fruit;  and  both 
phenomena  are  sometimes  seen  upon  the  branches  of  the  same 
plant.    Wherever  water  reaches  it,  the  soil,  though  not  deep, 

•  Peralta.  Lima  Fundada,  o'  Conquista  del  Feru.  torn.  2.  p.  289.,  cant  8. 
«t.  UI.  Lima  1732. 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  205 

is  abundantly  prolific.  The  atmosphere  is  cloudy  and  humid, 
yet  it  may  be  said  with  propriety,  that  it  never  rains !  The 
vapors  raised  from  the  Ocean,  by  the  power  of  the  sun,  form 
an  awning  over  the  city  for  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  Day- 
break is  accompanied  with  a  dense  fog,  which  conceals  objects 
that  are  but  a  short  distance  from  the  eye.  As  the  sun  climbs 
the  heavens,  the  fog  rises,  discovering  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, and  at  midday,  the  clear  blue  sky  breaks  for  a  short  time 
upon  the  sight.  As  the  sun  declines,  the  azure  becomes  gra- 
dually obscured  by  clouds.  At  night  the  gentle  breezes  of  the 
south  urge  on  more  vapors  to  supply  those  of  the  preceding 
day.  Such  is  the  successive  change,  except  for  a  few  days  in 
midsummer,  when  it  is  cloudless,  and  a  few  in  the  depth  of 
winter,  when  there  is  a  constant  mist.  The  thermometer  (F.) 
ranges  from  51°  the  coolest,  to  81°  the  warmest  day  in  the 
year,  and  rarely  travels  beyond  those  limits.  The  barometer 
usually  stands  at  twenty-seven  inches  four  lines,  varying  only 
from  two  to  four  lines,  through  the  year.*  This  atmosphere 
is  seldom  changed  or  renovated,  because  thunder,  lightning, 
and  tempests  are  almost  unknown  on  the  sea  board,  yet  their 
place  is  awfully  filled  by  frequent  and  sometimes  terrible  earth- 
quakes !  In  the  mountains,  however,  amidst  the  lofty  peaks 
of  the  Cordilleras,  terrific  storms,  accompanied  by  thunder  and 
lightning,  are  not  unfrequent;  the  glow  of  lightning  is  occa- 
sionally perceived  from  the  coast.  From  six  to  twelve,  or  even 
more,  slight  earthquakes  are  felt  annually,  but  the  great  con- 
cussions seem  to  observe  a  periodical  return  at  the  end  of  about 
a  half  century.  The  following  table  of  earthquakes,  which  have 
occurred  since  the  conquest,  at  Quito,  Arequipa,  and  Lima, 
seems  to  confirm  this  statement.  It  is  taken  from  Dr.  Unanue's 
excellent  work  on  the  climate  already  referred  to. 


Arequipa. 

1582. 

Lima. 

1586. 

Quito. 

1587. 

1604. 

1630. 

1645. 

1687. 

1687. 

1698. 

1715. 

1746. 

1757. 

1784. 

1806. 

1797. 

Unanu6. 


206  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

The  year  is  divided  into  two  seasons,  summer  and  winter. 
Towards  the  close  of  April,  the  fogs  become  dense,  and  cover 
the  sky,  day  and  night;  the  mists  commence,  and  continue,  in 
damp  years,  without  interruption,  till  the  sun  approaches  the 
solstice,  when  the  days  become  clear  and  warm ;  the  vapors 
are  dissipated,  and  we  have  the  "  veranito  de  San  Juan" — the 
little  summer  of  St.  John,  answering  to  the  Indian  summer  of 
the  autumn  in  the  United  States.  This  passes  away,  and  in  the 
months  of  July  and  August,  prevail  the  heavy  mists,  called, 
in  the  native  language  of  the  Incas,  gtirua,  and  by  foreigners, 
ironically,  "  Peruvian  dew."  The  weather  is  then  cool,  but 
fires  are  never  required  to  sit  by,  though  the  necessity  of  them 
is  sometimes  discussed  by  strangers. 

Why  it  never  rains  in  Lima,  nor  along  the  coast,  from  Lat. 
6°  S.  to  23°  S.,  may  be  thus  explained.  The  aqueous  vapors 
constantly  raised  from  the  Pacific,  immediately  after  formation, 
are  attracted  by  the  mountains,  or  forced  there  by  the  prevail- 
ing winds,  but  instead  of  bursting  in  showers,  undergo  a  sort 
of  leakage,  because  the  clouds  float  so  low,  that  the  minute  par- 
ticles of  mist  do  not  fall  far  enough  to  form  distinct  drops.  Yet 
this  may  be  owing  rather  to  the  electrical  condition  and  rela- 
tions of  the  mountains  and  valleys,  than  to  an  attracting  power. 
However,  the  phenomenon  ceases  in  the  western  regions,  be- 
yond the  influence  of  the  Cordilleras.  It  has  been  remarked 
by  Dr.  Unanue,  that  the  great  rains  of  the  Andes  are  the  re- 
sult of  the  vaporization  of  the  Pacific;  and  that,  as  a  conse- 
quence, are  formed  the  great  rivers,  emptying  into  the  Atlantic; 
thus,  through  the  air,  by  the  intervention  of  the  mountains,  the 
former  becomes  a  tributary  to  the  latter  Ocean.  The  birth  of 
the  Amazon  and  the  La  Plata,  may  have  been  the  ruin  of  the 
fabled  land  of  Atlantis. 

Notwithstanding  that  it  is  so  agreeable  to  the  senses,  the 
climate  of  Lima  is  enervating ;  and  previous  to  acclimation,  fo- 
reigners are  very  obnoxious  to  diseases  of  the  liver  and  diges- 
tive organs,  for  which,  in  many  instances,  nothing  is  effectual 
but  changing  it  for  the  more  genial  skies  of  Chile. 

Lima  is  laid  out  in  equal  squares  of  four  hundred  feet,  divid- 
ed by  streets  thirty-three  and  a  half  feet  wide,  which  intersect 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  207 

each  other  at  right  angles.  The  courses  of  the  streets  do  not 
follow  the  cardinal  points,  but  vary  from  east  to  south-east; 
"a  precaution  taken  by  the  founder,"  says  the  poet  Valdes, 
"  that  the  walls  might  cast  a  shade  both  in  the  morning  and 
afternoon."  Including  thirty  in  the  suburb  called  El  Cercado, 
the  city  contained,  in  1791,  no  less  than  two  hundred  and  nine 
squares,  and  three  hundred  and  fifty-five  streets.*  Since  that 
time,  little  or  no  improvement  has  been  made;  not  a  single 
new  dwelling  having  been  built  within  the  walls  during  the  last 
thirty  years.  Through  the  centre  of  nearly  all  the  streets,  runs 
a  stream  of  water,  three  feet  wide,  which  is  a  sort  of  cloax  or  re- 
ceptacle for  all  kinds  of  filth  thrown  out  from  private  dwellings. 
The  streets  are  paved  with  round  pebbles,  and  the  narrow 
trottoir  with  flat  stones,  in  such  bad  repair,  however,  that  it 
is  painful  for  the  feet  of  the  stranger  who  presses  them.  This 
plan  extends  to  the  suburb  of  San  Lazaro,  which  is  separated 
from  the  city  proper  by  the  Rimac.  It  contains  the  plaza  del 
Acho,  or  bull  ring,  the  Alameda  del  Acho,  and  the  Alameda 
de  los  Descalzos,  which  was  finished  in  1611,  during  the  vice- 
royship  of  the  Marques  de  Monte  Claros. 

The  city  is  divided  into  four  quarteles,  and  each  one  of 
these  into  thirty-five  barrios.  For  each  barrio  an  alcalde,  a 
functionary  similar  to  a  Philadelphia  magistrate,  is  selected 
from  amongst  its  inhabitants.  The  clerical  division  is  into 
eight  parishes. 

The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  yet  there  are  many 
dwellings  of  two,  which,  for  extent  and  magnificence,  are  com- 
parable to  palaces,  The  walls  are  of  mud  and  cut  straw, 
worked  up  together,  moulded  into  large  sized  bricks,  dried  in 
the  sun.  That  the  walls  may  be  more  capable  of  resisting  the 
frequent  earthquakes,  stout  pieces  of  timber  are  worked  in 
them,  and  when  a  second  story  is  raised,  it  is  constructed  of 
stout,  split  reeds,  wattled  together,  and  then  plastered  over 
with  mud.  The  roofs  are  flat,  made  of  mats,  covered  over 
with  an  inch  or  two  of  earth — enough  to  absorb  the  g&rua 
which  falls  during  the  winter.    From  a  height  the  city  resem- 

*  Mercurio  Peruano.  vol.  1.  p.  90. 


208  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

bles  a  vast  ruin ;  the  tops  of  the  houses  look  as  if  they  were 
covered  with  ashes,  and  the  number  of  buzzards,  stalking  so- 
lemnly over  every  building,  serves  to  enhance  the  impression. 

The  whitewashed  fronts  of  the  houses  present  a  puertacalle 
or  great  doorway,  opening  into  a  patio,  across  which  are  seen 
the  windows  and  entrance  to  the  drawing-room,  or  sometimes 
to  the  sala.  The  windows  are  without  shutters,  and  until  of 
late  years,  without  glass  or  sash  ;  in  their  place  are  substituted 
"  rejas,"  which  are  fancifully  formed  gratings  of  iron,  some- 
times beautifully  gilt.  Very  few  houses  have  windows  open- 
ing from  the  lower  story  into  the  street.  Heavy,  close  balco- 
nies, resembling  great  boxes,  jut  out  over  the  great  door-way ; 
they  are  generally  green,  but  so  seldom  painted,  that  they  look 
sad  and  dingy.  The  walls  terminate  abruptly  on  top,  without 
cornice  or  finish  of  any  kind,  except  in  some  of  the  best  houses 
and  public  buildings.  When  the  puertacalle  opens  on  a  dead 
wall,  as  is  the  case  in  many  parts  of  the  city,  a  landscape  or 
some  perspective  view  is  painted  on  it  to  relieve  the  eye. 
Nevertheless,  the  appearance  of  the  streets  is  dull  and  mean. 

The  interior  structure  is  light  and  airy,  and  well  adapted  to 
the  climate.  The  various  rooms  are  distributed  round  courts, 
which  are  surrounded  by  corridors  when  there  are  two  stories, 
accessible  from  the  patio  by  a  broad  stair.  All  the  rooms  are 
lofty.  For  the  admission  of  light  and  air,  they  have  square 
windows  near  the  ceiling,  closed  by  rough  inside  shutters,  con- 
trolled by  cords,  terminated  with  tassels,  which  hang  from 
spring-latches  into  the  room.  The  joists  or  rafters  which  sup- 
port the  roof  or  ceiling,  as  it  may  be,  are  carved  and  varnished. 
The  floors  are  generally  made  of  square  earthen  tiles,  and  in 
the  best  houses  of  Dutch  tiles,  ornamented  with  drawings. 
The  walls  are  whitewashed  ;  within  a  few  years,  however, 
some  are  papered,  and  in  the  dwellings  of  the  wealthy,  tapes- 
tried with  damask.  Some  houses  have  two  or  three  courts, 
with  corridors  communicating  one  with  the  other. 

Almost  every  house  has  a  stream  of  water  running  through 
it,  which  is  used  for  domestic  purposes.  Gardens  are  rare. 
Though  the  Limanians  are  passionately  fond  of  flowers,  they 
seldom  attempt  any  thing  further  in  this  way  than  the  cultiva- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  209 

tion  of  a  few  choice  plants — mostly  bulbs — which  are  displayed 
in  pots  around  the  corridors. 

The  city  is  surrounded  by  a  parapet  wall,  about  seven  miles 
in  circuit,  and  pierced  by  six  gates.  It  is  from  eighteen  to 
twenty-five  feet  high,  and  about  nine  feet  thick.  It  is  defended 
by  thirty-five  bastions,  each  flank  being  ninety  feet,  perpen- 
dicular to  the  curtain,  and  the  face  about  sixty  yards,  making 
the  angle  of  the  epaide  one  hundred  and  thirty  degrees.  Ex- 
cept at  some  of  the  bastions,  the  wall  is  too  narrow  for  the 
mounting  of  artillery,  which  leads  us  to  suppose,  that  it  was 
constructed  to  guard  against  incursions  of  the  Indians.  They 
are  without/owe  or  out  works,  and  their  top  is  a  very  frequent 
promenade  for  foreigners,  but  natives  seldom  resort  to  them. 
They  were  built  about  the  year  16S5,  during  the  viceroyship 
of  the  Duke  de  la  Palata,  by  Don  Juan  Ramond,  a  Flemish 
priest. 

In  1791,  the  property  of  Lima  was  distributed  and  owned 
as  follows: — 


The  King. 
Convents. 
Monasteries. 
Holy  Inquisition. 
Hospitals. 
Holy  places. 
Brotherhoods. 
Colleges. 
Clerigos. 

Private  religiosos. 
Individual  nuns. 
Individuals. 


It  will  be  seen,  on  examination  of  the  above  list,  that  nearly 
one-third  of  the  property  belonged  to  the  church  and  to  charita- 
ble institutions. 

The  first  census  of  the  population  of  Lima  was  made  in  1600, 
27 


Houses. 

9  belon 

ged 

to 

362 

(i 

a 

216 

a 

a 

17 

tt 

tt 

103 

a 

tt 

24 

a 

tt 

157 

a 

tt 

29 

a 

tt 

137 

tt 

tt 

61 

a 

tt 

29 

a 

tt 

2797 

a 

tt 

Total,  3941 

210 


THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


when  it  contained  14,262  inhabitants.     The  following  is  the 
census  of  1790. 


SINGLE. 

MARRIED. 

WIDOWED. 

Spaniards, 

TOTAL. 

17,215 

Men. 

Women. 

Men. 

Women. 

Men. 

Women. 

5225 

4835 

2740 

2603 

370 

1442 

Indians, 

1426 

929 

684 

631 

80 

162 

3,912 

Mestizos, 

1357 

1362 

737 

767 

74 

334 

4,631 

Negroes, 

3138 

2737 

1200 

1250 

153 

482 

8,960 

Mulattoes, 

1831 

2148 

775 

735 

78 

405 

5,972 

Quarteroons, 

728 

815 

345 

290 

43 

162 

2,383 

Quinteroons, 

76 

91 

17 

16 

6 

13 

219 

Zambos, 

1139 

1308 

312 

349 

102 

174 

3,384 

Chinos, 
Total, 

385 

414 

135 

117 

26 

43 

1,120 

15305 

14639 

6945 

6758 

932 

3217 

47,796 

c       i  (Men,  23,1S2?    ._  _n. 

Seculars,       \Wq^       24;614£  47,796. 


Religious  professors,    j  «r    ' 

Living  in  religious       C  Men, 
communities,  £  Women, 


Total, 


C  Men, 
I  Women, 


991   C  1     BAT 

656  £  1'647' 

1'564?  3  184 

1,620  5  ' 

25'737?  52  627 

26,8905  ^'°^/* 


The  population,  since  1790,  has  probably  decreased  one-fifth; 
so  that  the  city  now  contains,  by  estimate,  40,000  inhabitants. 
This  decrease  must  be  referred  to  the  war  of  the  revolution, 
which  carried  off  many  in  the  battle  fields  ;  others  removed  to 
Spain  rather  than  join  the  patriot  cause. 

Population  of  Lima. 


me 

year 

10UU, 

ii,ao» 

Increase. 

a 

it 

1614, 

25,455 

11,193 

a 

a 

1700, 

37,259 

11,804 

a 

tt 

1746, 

60,000 

22,741 

Decrease. 

a 

a 

1755, 

54,000 

6,000 

a 

a 

17S1, 

60,000 

6,000 

a 

a 

1790, 

52,627 

7,373 

NOTICES  OP  PERU. 


211 


The  earthquake  of  1746,  and  the  epidemic  diseases  which 
followed,  caused  a  decrease  of  6,000  in  the  population.  From 
the  repugnance  of  the  lower  orders  to  give  the  true  number  of 
their  families,  supposing  that  the  census  is  for  the  purpose  of 
levying  new  taxes,  it  is  presumed  that  the  above  numbers  are 
rather  under  than  beyond  the  truth. 


Religious  Communities. 


Orders  of  Friars. 

Houses. 

Number. 

Benitos, 

1 

12 

Geronimos, 

1 

3 

{Mendicants.) 

Dominicans, 

4 

272 

Franciscan, 

2 

242 

Descalzos, 

1 

60 

Missionaries  of  Ocopa, 

4 

Augustins, 

3 

227 

Mercedarians, 

3 

228 

Minimos, 

1 

64 

San  Juan  de  Dios, 

1 

53 

{Regular  clergy.) 

Agonizantes, 

2 

8S 

{Congregation.) 

S.  Felipe  Neri, 

1 

94 

Total, 

20 

1347 

The  above  numbers  include  noviciates,  servants,  and  slaves. 


Orders  of  Nuns. 

Bern&rdas, 

Houses. 

1 

Number. 

157 

Dominicas, 

2 

225 

Franciscas  Claras, 

1 

244 

Capuchlnas, 
Concebidas, 

1 

1 

39 
260 

Do.        Descalzas, 

1 

155 

Carried  forward, 


1080 


212 


THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


Order*  of  Nuns. 

Houses. 

Number. 

Brought  forward, 

7 

1080 

Augustinas, 

2 

2G8 

Carmelitas  Descalzas, 

2 

88 

Do.  Nazarinas  Descal: 

zas,   1 

47 

Trinitdrias, 

1 

53 

Mercedarias, 

1 

49 

14 


1585 


Orders  of  Nuns. 

Houses. 

Number. 

Beatarias.* 

Dominicas, 

1 

53 

Franciscas, 

1 

63 

Do.         Indias, 

1 

47 

Amparadas  y 

Recogidas, 

1 

147 

310 


The  above  numbers  include  novices,  nuns,  servants,  and 
slaves. 

Since  this  enumeration  was  made  (1791),  perhaps  the  num- 
ber of  nuns  and  friars  has  decreased  one-fifth,  t 


CHAPTER  V. 


Plaza — Portales — Palace — Cathedral — Archbishop's  palace — Fountains — The 
Plaza  by  day,  and  by  night — Segarr£ros — Picdntes — Barquillos — Ice. 

The  great  square  of  Lima,  in  ancient  times  the  Plaza  Real, 
now  Plaza  de  la  Independencia,  suggests  a  thousand  associa- 
tions. Here  Pizarro  drew  the  plan  of  this  Metropolis;  here  he 
laid  the  corner  stone  of  the  Cathedral,  the  first  building  in  the 

•  Those  females  who  devote  their  lives  to  religion  and  charity,  but  without 
binding  themselves  to  seclusion,  are  termed  lieatas. 
f  Vide,  Mcrcurio  Peruano,  Vol.  I. 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  213 

"  City  of  Kings ;"  here  he  saw  the  town-house  and  palace  rise ; 
within  a  few  yards  of  this  spot  he  lost  his  life,  and  not  far  off, 
now  rest  his  bones  !  Here,  too,  San  Martin  proclaimed  Liber- 
ty to  the  inhabitants, and  Bolivar  was  honored  and  contemned. 
Here  Torre  Tagle  ordered  the  national  hymn  to  be  sung  by 
young  girls,  assembled  from  the  several  schools,  on  every  Sun- 
day morning !  For  three  hundred  years,  the  plaza  has  been, 
by  turns,  the  scene  of  business,  of  religious  processions,  of 
amatory  intrigues,  of  festivities,  and  of  public  executions ! — 
and  will  probably  continue  so  to  be.  The  customs  of  Lima  are 
now  too  old,  and  too  deeply  rooted,  soon  to  change ! 

On  the  east  side  of  the  plaza,  are  the  Cathedral,  and  Arch- 
bishop's palace,  part  of  which  is  now  occupied  by  the  Peruvian 
Senate.  On  the  north  is  what  was  once  Pizarro's  palace ;  on 
the  west,  are  the  house  of  the  Cabildo,  or  Municipality,  the 
prison,  and  the  offices  of  the  Escribanos,  or  Scriveners;  on  the 
south,  is  the  Portad  de  los  Botineros,  and  in  the  centre  stands 
a  brazen  fountain,  which  was  once  glittering  with  gold. 

The  Portad  de  los  Botineros,  and  that  of  the  Escribanos,  are 
covered  walks  extending  along  two  sides  of  the  plaza,  support- 
ing a  second  story  of  irregular  balconies,  on  arches  and  colon- 
nades of  brick.  Beneath  the  first  are  fancy  stores,  and  against 
the  colonnades  are  placed,  in  the  day  time,  the  tables  and  appa- 
ratus of  fringe  makers,  of  lace  makers,  of  button  makers  (and 
hence  the  name  of  this  one,)  cases  of  small  wares,  &c.  Under 
the  Portad  de  los  Escribanos,  are  drygood  shops,  and  some  no- 
taries' offices.  In  front  of  them  are  the  cases  and  tables  of 
small  drygood  dealers,  or  permanent  pedlars,  with  a  display  of 
all  that  a  seamstress  can  want  in  the  way  of  thread,  needles, 
ribbons  and  tape.  The  tables  and  awnings  of  these  traders,  who 
remove  them  at  sunset,  extend  over  nearly  one-third  of  the 
plaza.  The  upper  story  of  the  "  Button-makers'  Portico,"  is 
occupied  by  private  families.  Both  port&les  are  paved  with 
small  pebbles,  and  the  ends  of  leg  bones,  distributed  so  as  to 
form  various  figures. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  noble  edifice  of  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
six  feet  front,  by  three  hundred  and  twenty  deep.  The  front 
presents  three  great  doors,  which  open  upon  a  broad  terrace, 


214  TinXE  TEARS  IN  TITE  PACIFIC. 

and  above  them,  an  ecclesiastic  coat  of  arms.  These  are  sup- 
ported by  Corinthian  columns  and  figures  of  saints.  At  each 
corner  is  a  tower  rising  nearly  two  hundred  feet  from  its  base, 
which  is  forty  feet.  They  are  octagonal,  ornamented  with 
Corinthian  columns,  cornices,  ovals,  socles  and  mouldings  ; 
the  whole  is  surmounted  by  a  gilt  ball,  and  an  iron  cross 
twelve  feet  high.  The  towers  were  thrown  down  by  the 
earthquake  of  1746,  and  rebuilt  in  1800.  During  1832  the 
pyramids  and  cupolas  on  their  summits  were  painted,  and  the 
balls  gilded.  In  the  belfries  there  are  three  large,  fine  toned 
bells,  besides  several  smaller  ones.  The  largest,  called  La 
Cantabria,  weighs  310  quintals;  the  second,  La  Purisima, 
155  quintals;  and  the  third,  La  Antigua,  55  quintals  ! 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Cathedral,  corresponding  to  it  in 
architecture,  is  a  small  church,  surmounted  with  a  low  cupola 
and  cross,  termed  the  Sagrario.  Adjoining  to  it  is  the  Arch- 
bishop's palace.  It  is  two  stories  high,  and  the  front  wall  is 
crowned  with  a  balustrade  and  urns.  Like  the  dwellings  of 
Lima,  it  is  disfigured  by  a  close  jutting  balcony. 

Beneath  the  terrace  of  the  Cathedral  are  several  small  shoe- 
makers' shops,  called  Los  cajones  de  los  cabachuelos. 

The  palace  occupies  the  whole  north  side  of  the  plaza.  It 
presents  an  irregular,  mean,  half  broken  down  row,  of  two 
stories  high.  The  lower  one  is  occupied  by  shops,  in  which 
are  sold  hardware,  twine,  sulphur,  wax  and  books,  and  almost 
every  one  has  the  same  assortment.  From  no  very  distant 
resemblance  to  huge  boxes,  this  row  has  acquired  the  name  of 
Los  cajones  de  la  ribera.  Coarse  unbleached  awnings  are 
propped  out  over  them  to  protect  their  goods  from  the  sun. 
The  second  story  is  a  kind  of  open  gallery,  called  La  Galeria 
de  Palacio.  A  side  entrance  leads  from  the  plaza  into  one  of 
the  great  patios,  through  which,  it  is  supposed,  Almagro's  par- 
ty entered  when  Pizarro  was  slain. 

In  the  centre  of  the  square,  on  a  level  table  of  masonry, 
forty  feet  on  each  side,  and  raised  three  feet,  having  drains 
around  it  for  carrying  off  the  superabundant  water,  is  placed 
the  great  reservoir  of  the  beautiful  fountain  of  Lima.  It  is 
twenty-four  feet  in  diameter,  and  about  three  feet  deep.    It  is 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  215 

crowned  by  eight  lions,  with  a  griffin  at  the  feet  of  each,  and 
is  ornamented  exteriorly  with  mouldings  and  flowers  in  semi- 
relief,  and  interiorly  the  sides  and  bottom  are  glazed.  In  the 
centre  of  this  reservoir  is  a  pedestal  eighteen  feet  high,  com- 
posed of  three  parts,  which  supports  a  second  basin,  eight  feet 
in  diameter.  Around  it  are  eight  grotesque  masks,  from  the 
mouths  of  which  the  water  is  jetted  into  the  reservoir  below. 
A  column,  two  feet  in  diameter  and  five  feet  high,  adorned 
with  foliage  in  relief,  rises  out  of  the  second  basin,  and  sustains 
a  third,  sixteen  feet  in  circumference,  and  surrounded  by 
seraphs,  who  jet  forth  the  water  collected  in  it.  Again  arises 
another  column  from  its  centre,  supporting  a  ball,  upon  which 
is  poised  a  statue  of  Fame,  five  feet  high.  In  her  right  hand 
she  once  held  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  monarch  of  Spain, 
and  in  her  left,  a  trumpet  with  which  she  published  his  name 
and  magnificence  to  the  world !     But  they  are  gone. 

The  whole  height  of  the  fountain  is  forty  feet.  At  the 
corners  of  the  table  of  mason  work  are  small  fountains,  orna- 
mented like  the  centre  one.  The  whole  is  of  bell-metal,  and 
all  its  ornaments  conform  to  the  composite  order  of  civic 
architecture. 

From  one  of  the  inscriptions  on  the  four  sides  of  the  pedes- 
tal, we  learn  that  this  fountain  was  erected  in  1650.  The 
water  is  derived  from  a  common  reservoir  near  the  college  of 
Santo  Tomas,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  city.  The  reservoir 
is  supplied  from  the  Rimac;  the  difference  of  elevation  be- 
tween it  and  the  plaza  is  thirty-three  feet. 

There  are  several  other  fountains  in  different  parts  of  the 
city,  which  present  a  brick  wall  or  block  of  masonry,  with 
water  constantly  pouring  from  leaden  pipes  into  a  basin  and 
drain. 

The  plaza  of  Lima,  every  hour  of  the  day  from  dawn  till 
midnight,  presents  scenes  of  interest  to  the  idle  stranger,  where 
he  may  observe  manners,  customs,  and  costumes,  so  totally 
different  from  all  he  has  before  met  with,  that  if  his  curiosity 
be  not  awakened,  he  must  have  been  disinherited  by  mother 
Eve. 

Entering  the  Portdl  de  Botineros,  about  ten  o'clock  in  the 


216  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

morning,  and  passing  to  that  of  the  Escribanos,  many  inter- 
esting groups  and  figures  present  themselves,  and  what  is  re- 
markable, from  one  end  of  the  year  to  the  other  the  picture  is 
always  the  same.  All  Sundays  and  feast  days  are  alike;  and 
all  working  days  strikingly  resemble  each  other ;  except  when 
there  is  some  popular  exhibition  or  religious  procession  going 
forward,  and  then  it  is  more  crowded. 

The  first  figure  that  called  attention  was  that  of  a  stout  negro, 
in  full  bottomed,  dark  green  breeches,  open  at  the  knee,  show- 
ing that  his  linen  drawers  were  embroidered  and  pointed  like 
a  ruffle.  Before  him  stood  a  table,  on  which  was  spread  a  piece 
of  bayela — a  species  of  baize — the  long  furze  of  which  he  was 
combing  with  a  card,  such  as  is  used  with  us  for  carding  wool 
and  cotton. 

The  shopkeepers  were  seen,  when  not  occupied  by  cus- 
tomers, seated  on  the  counters,  neatly  dressed,  swinging  their 
legs  and  smoking  cigars;  or  sometimes  a  half  dozen  were  list- 
ening to  the  news  from  an  infant  gazette,  read  in  a  monotonous 
tone.  When  a  lady  entered  to  purchase,  she  uncovered  her 
face,  though  not  always,  and  the  shopman  generally  served  her 
with  a  cold  indifference  that  argued  a  great  love  for  dolce  far 
niLnte.  This  feeling,  I  am  told,  has  been  known  to  gain  such 
influence  at  times,  that  a  shopman,  rather  than  move,  has  de- 
nied having  goods  which  were  seen  upon  his  shelves  !  Strangers 
generally  pay  doubly  for  all  they  buy  in  Lima.  I  have  known 
thirty  dollars  received  for  an  article,  of  which  the  price  asked 
was  a  hundred.  About  ten  o'clock,  the  shopmen  are  seen  be- 
hind their  counters,  taking  breakfast,  which  usually  consists  of 
some  stew,  bread,  a  basin  of  broth,  followed  by  a  cup  of  cho- 
colate and  a  glass  of  water. 

The  tables  along  the  colonnades  present  a  number  of  handy- 
craftsmen  of  every  variety  of  caste,  making  silk  cords,  tassels, 
gold  and  silver  epaulettes,  sword  knots,  buttons,  &c. 

Presently  we  met  a  canonigo.  Like  all  of  his  class,  he  wore 
a  long  black  cloak,  black  small  clothes  and  silk  stockings,  with 
large  shoes  and  buckles.  At  a  distance  his  hat  resembled  a 
great  black  cylinder.  Close  at  his  heels  were  two  or  three 
boys  in  black  suits,  relieved  by  a  blue  sash  worn  over  the 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  217 

shoulder,  tottering  under  huge  cocked  hats  trimmed  with 
feathers.  They  were  collegians.  Then  came  two  gaily  dressed 
officers,  arm  and  arm,  whiskered  and  moustached — booted  and 
spurred.  Nothing  kept  their  vanity  from  flying  away  with 
them,  but  the  weight  of  their  long  metal  scabbarded  sabres, 
which  clattered  after  them  over  the  pavement.  The  organ  of 
self-esteem  must  be  even  greater  than  that  of  combativeness  in 
the  Peruvian  army  !  Next  was  a  serrdno  or  Indian  from  the 
interior,  followed  by  his  wife.  He  wore  a  high  crowned, 
broad  brimmed  straw  hat  without  a  band,  and  a  long  poncho  of 
bayeta,  falling  below  the  knee.  His  legs  and  feet  were  bare, 
and  judging  from  the  spread  of  the  toes,  they  had  never  been 
acquainted  with  shoes.  A  pair  of  alforjas — coarse  saddle  bags 
— hung  carelessly  over  his  left  shoulder,  and  his  right  hand 
grasped  a  long  staff.  His  black  temple  locks  hung  straight 
down  his  cheeks,  as  was  the  fashion  hundreds  of  years  before 
the  conquest.  He  was  of  brawny  stature,  with  a  broad  cop- 
per colored  face,  high  cheek  bones,  and  a  serene  countenance. 
His  wife  was  clad  in  a  coarse  woollen  petticoat,  plaited  full 
round  the  waist,  and  short  enough  to  show  her  bare  feet.  A 
young  child  was  slung  over  her  back  in  a  shawl  of  blue  bayeta. 
Her  hair  was  combed  back  from  the  forehead,  and  braided  in 
two  long  tresses  hanging  almost  to  the  ground.  Curiosity  kept 
the  Indian  looking  over  his  shoulder,  and,  in  consequence,  he 
ran  into  the  corpulency  of  a  staid  judge,  with  a  severe  counte- 
nance and  a  large  cocked  hat.  His  shirt  was  folded,  ruffled, 
and  starched  in  a  prim  style,  and  a  star  of  brilliants  was  sus- 
pended round  his  neck  by  a  broad  tricolored  ribbon.  The  ren- 
contre was  equally  unexpected,  for  the  judge  was  in  a  most 
sedate  and  pensive  mood.  His  moody  look  changed  into  a 
scowl  of  contemptuous  anger;  the  Indian  cowered  under  it, 
touched  his  hat,  and  passed  on.  The  feelings  of  the  Indian  and 
the  European  Spaniard  are  still  as  uncongenial  as  oil  and  water, 
though,  like  the  first  of  those  two  fluids,  the  Spaniard  always 
maintains  his  superiority. 

Half  way  down  the  Port&l  de  Botineros  is  an  alley,  about 
ten  feet  wide,  leading  into  the  street  south  of  the  plaza.     This 
is  called  el  Callejon  de  Petateros,  from  being  chiefly  occupied 
2S 


218  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

by  manufacturers  of  a  kind  of  coarse  flag  mat,  half  an  inch  in 
thickness,  known  by  the  name  of  petite,  and  usually  inter- 
posed between  the  rough  tile  floors  and  carpets.  In  this  same 
callejon  are  constantly  seen  a  number  of  Indians  and  negroes 
making  segarreros,  and  washing  and  glazing  straw  hats  from 
Manila  and  Guayaquil.  The  segarrero  is  a  case  for  cigars,  plaited 
with  the  fingers,  of  a  species  of  grass  which  grows  at  Choco, 
near  the  Equator.  It  consists  of  two  symmetrical  halves,  one 
being  nicely  received  into  the  other.  Some  are  as  fine  as  hair, 
and  of  various  colors,  disposed  in  different  figures;  the  initials, 
and  even  the  whole  name,  are  occasionally  worked  into  them. 
Their  price  varies,  according  to  the  quality,  from  a  dollar  to  a 
doubloon. 

At  the  corner  where  the  portables  join,  are  generally  hung 
up  the  placards  or  bills  advertising  the  play,  cock-fight,  and 
bull-bait.  They  are  all  done  by  hand  instead  of  the  printing 
press.  The  most  interesting  scene  of  the  play  to  be  repre- 
sented is  caricatured  in  bright  colors,  much  as  we  see  large 
wood  cuts  of  the  feats  to  be  performed  at  the  equestrian  the- 
atres in  the  United  States.  The  bull-ring  is  shown,  with  some 
one  of  the  different  modes  of  attack  to  be  resorted  to  on  the 
day  of  exhibition.  Cock-fighting  is  announced  on  a  scroll,  sup- 
ported from  the  beaks  of  two  cocks,  painted  on  a  large  piece 
of  cloth,  on  which  are  some  eight  or  ten  doggrel  rhymes  lau- 
datory of  the  birds,  and  the  amount  bet  on  the  pitched  fight. 

At  the  same  corner  there  is  always  a  number  of  boys,  with 
quantities  of  cheap  dry  goods,  spread  upon  the  ground,  con- 
stantly crying  the  qualities  and  prices  at  the  top  of  their  voices : 
"  Panuelos  finos,  a  real  y  medio" — fine  pocket  handkerchiefs, 
at  a  real  and  a  half. 

At  sunset  the  scene  changes.  All  the  shops  are  shut,  busi- 
ness is  closed  for  the  day,  and  the  plaza  is  then  devoted  to  plea- 
sure and  promenade.  Along  the  Portal  de  Escribanos  are  ta- 
bles, where  are  sold,  by  candle  light,  ices  and  iced  drinks  of 
several  kinds.  Orchata — prepared  from  almonds — and  chicha, 
a  species  of  beer  made  from  maize,  are  common. 

Ice  is  a  monopoly  granted  to  a  company.    Physicians  deem 
ice  so  important  in  the  treatment  of  diseases,  that  the  mouo- 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  219 

polists  are  bound  under  a  heavy  penalty  to  keep  the  city  sup- 
plied with  it;  if  they  are  found  without  it  for  twenty-four 
hours,  their  charter  becomes  null.  Malignant  persons  have  at 
times  made  a  run  on  the  company,  and  when  the  stock  was 
exhausted,  informed  the  government,  in  order  to  gain  one-half 
of  the  fine.  Therefore  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  a  considerable 
quantity  at  a  time,  for  they  will  never  sell  to  any  individual 
more  than  one  or  two  reals'  worth. 

In  the  centre  of  the  plaza,  here  and  there,  are  glimmering 
lights  and  fires.  Men  and  women  are  seated  around  the  fresco 
tables,  as  they  are  termed,  partaking  of  the  various  refresh- 
ments. The  saya  y  manto  has  disappeared,  but  the  ladies  still 
hide  their  faces,  by  wearing  a  shawl  over  the  head.  Here  an 
old  negress,  with  long  bony  arms,  shining  in  grease,  with 
scarce  tatters  enough  to  conceal  her  limbs,  squats  over  a  copper 
pan  of  boiling  lard,  in  which  fritters  are  cooking.  A  long  stiek 
serves  her  all  the  purposes  of  a  fork  for  turning  the  cakes,  and 
when  she  cannot  see,  it  is  first  dipped  into  the  fat,  then  into 
the  fire,  and  is  at  once  converted  into  a  torch.  There,  another 
sybil  of  the  same  deep  complexion  and  garb,  sits  upon  the 
ground,  stretching  her  neck  silently  over  a  pan  of  frittering, 
crackling  fish,  while  a  half  dozen  negroes  are  stretched  out 
about  her,  resting  upon  an  elbow,  eating  from  a  gourd  plate. 
The  uncertain  glare  which  dapples  these  groups,  gives  to  them, 
at  first  sight,  something  of  that  appearance  which  the  imagina- 
tion attaches  to  Hades.  In  another  spot  sits  a  bare  headed  ne- 
gro, in  big  breeches,  making  barquillos.  He  has  three  or  four 
irons,  like  those  for  waffles,  arranged  in  a  bed  of  hot  coals, 
and  a  copper  pan  of  batter,  by  his  side.  He  pours  a  spoonful 
on  one  of  the  irons,  from  which  he  has  just  removed  a  barqui- 
llo,  and  places  it  in  the  fire.  Then  taking  the  iron  furthest  to 
his  left,  he  opens  it,  and  scrapes  round  the  edges  with  a  knife; 
he  turns  the  wafer-like  cake  upon  his  palm,  and  rolls  it  round 
a  stick,  which  is  removed  by  a  slight  jerk  of  the  hand,  and 
falls  to  the  ground,  leaving  the  barquillo  like  a  sheet  of  lightly 
rolled  paper.  Both  hands  are  now  wiped  on  the  full  part  of  his 
dirty  breeches,  and  the  iron  is  again  set  in  motion.  These 
cakes  are  made  very  rapidly.    They  are  eaten  with  ices  and 


220  THKEE   YEARS   IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

chocolate,  by  those  who  care  not  for  the  mode  in  which  they 
arc  made.  Still  another  kind  of  refreshment  is  found  in  the 
picdnte,  which  consists  of  various  kinds  of  butcher's  meat, 
made  into  a  stew,  spiced  and  peppered  as  hotly  as  possible. 
After  partaking  of  it,  the  throat  is  flooded  with  iced  chicha,  to 
quench  the  flame  which  the  morsel  excites. 

From  sunset  till  eleven  and  twelve  o'clock  at  night,  in  the 
summer  season  particularly,  men  and  women  are  strolling  from 
table  to  table.  The  women,  with  their  faces  hidden  under  the 
shawl,  perform  the  part  of  maskers  in  the  scene.  Many  curi- 
ous adventures  and  anecdotes  are  related  of  the  feigned  liaiso?is 
d'amours  which  the  Limanians  have  sustained,  in  order  to 
be  invited  to  partake  of  refreshments  at  the  expense  of  some 
uninitiated  wight.  Women  have  been  known  to  pretend  to  the 
acquaintance  of  a  gentleman  accidentally  met  in  the  plaza,  (and 
masked  as  they  are,  it  is  impossible  to  recognise  them,)  till 
they  have  succeeded  in  taking  ices  at  his  expense,  then  throw- 
ing off  the  disguise,  express  their  astonishment  that  he  was  "  tan 
inocente" — so  simple,  as  not  to  have  detected  them.  The  his- 
tory of  the  intrigues  and  deceptions  practised  in  this  plaza, 
would  form  a  volume  of  much  interest  to  a  curious  reader. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Saya  y  Manto—  Scenes  in  the  street — Police — Market — Chcrimoya — Palta- 
Granadilla — Cafes. 


The  walking  dress  of  the  ladies  of  Lima,  presents  a  very  cu- 
rious and  unique  appearance  to  the  stranger  who  beholds  it 
for  the  first  time.  Yet  after  a  little  use,  it  is  rather  pleasing 
than  disgusting  to  the  eye,  when  prettily  worn.  For  several 
days  after  my  arrival,  my  chief  amusement  in  the  morning,  be- 
fore breakfast,  was  to  stand  in  the  pucrtacallc  and  observe  the 
ladies  in  saya  y  manto,  as  they  passed  to  and  from  mass.   This 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  221 

dress  consists  of  two  parts.  The  saya,  the  lower  part,  is  a  silk- 
en petticoat,  made  in  folds  or  plaits,  extending  from  bottom  to 
top,  and  of  nearly  the  same  breadth  above  and  below.  It  sits 
closely  to  the  figure,  and  being  elastic,  from  the  manner  in 
which  it  is  sewed,  manifests  the  contour  of  the  figure,  and  the 
whole  muscular  play  of  the  body  and  limbs.  The  manto  is  a 
hood  of  crimped  silk,  cut  bias  or  diagonally,  to  give  it  elas- 
ticity. The  bottom  part  of  it  is  gathered  full  by  a  drawing 
string,  and,  encircling  more  than  half  of  the  body,  sits  low 
enough  down  to  hide  the  top  of  the  saya.  This  hood,  drawn 
up  from  behind,  over  the  shoulders  and  head,  and  covering  the 
elbows  and  arms,  is  folded  over  the  face  in  such  a  manner  as 
to  conceal  all  but  one  eye.  One  hand  is  occupied  in  holding 
the  fold  in  its  place  in  front,  while  the  other  is  carried  across 
the  breast,  bearing  sometimes  a  reticule  or  pocket  handker- 
chief, and  at  others,  a  rosary  or  cross.  When  worn  open,  leav- 
ing the  face  uncovered,  as  is  often  the  case,  the  position  of  the 
hands  is  nearly  the  same.  The  fore-finger  rests  upon  the  cheek, 
and  the  elbow  appears  supported  by  the  hand  of  the  other  side, 
giving  an  air  of  pensiveness  to  the  whole  figure.  Being  drawn 
tightly  under  the  elbows,  the  manto  is  kept  tense  over  the 
head.  With  this  dress  the  comb  is  not  always  worn.  The  saya 
is  always  short  enough  to  display  the  foot  and  ankle,  which  are 
set  off  in  white  silk  stockings,  and  satin  slippers,  of  every  co- 
lor. Silk  shawls,  of  every  dye,  beautifully  embroidered  and 
fringed,  fall  from  the  bust  in  front ;  while  behind  they  are  con- 
cealed in  the  manto,  forming  a  bunch  on  the  back,  rather  in- 
jurious to  the  appearance.  The  sayas  are  of  every  color,  but 
the  mantos  are  invariably  black. 

This  costume,  though  of  ancient  origin,  was  not  worn  in  the 
beginning  of  the  eighteenth  century.  Then,  a  dress  called  the 
Faldellin  was  in  fashion,  and  was  occasionally  seen  till  about 
the  year  1800.  It  was  a  short  petticoat,  made  very  full,  and 
trimmed  with  a  profusion  of  lace. 

San  Martin  was  so  much  opposed  to  the  saya  y  manto,  that 
he  issued  a  "bando"  prohibiting  ladies  from  appearing  in  the 
streets  in  that  dress,  but  to  no  purpose.  It  offers  too  many  ad- 
vantages to  the  intrigante,  and  too  many  conveniences  for  the 


222  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

slattern,  to  be  soon  thrown  aside.  Slipping  into  a  saya  y  man- 
to  at  dawn,  a  lady  is  dressed  to  comply  with  the  requisitions 
of  the  church,  without  losing  time  at  her  toilet.  It  was,  there- 
fore, a  cruel  whim  in  San  Martin,  to  wish  them  to  resign  it! 

This  is  strictly  the  walking  dress,  and  is  always  worn  when 
"  shopping,"  or  as  they  more  emphatically  express  it,  "  cheap- 
ening. "  It  is  not  considered  a  full  dress,  nor  is  it  ever  worn 
at  night — in  fact,  ladies  never  promenade  at  night. 

It  requires  very  little  tact  to  distinguish  a  foreign  lady,  in 
saya  y  manto,  from  a  Limanian.  The  walk  of  the  foreigner  is 
constrained  and  clumsy,  while  that  of  the  true  Limena  is  all 
grace  and  ease;  she  treads  with  the  true  gr&cia,  which  it  is 
difficult  to  describe.  "  Grdcia"  expresses  all  that  is  agreeable 
in  the  air  and  presence — all  that  polish  and  ease  of  manner, 
which  distinguish  accomplished  persons. 

The  making  of  sayas  is  a  business  followed  by  men  ;  being 
first  lined  with  calico,  white  or  colored,  it  is  plaited  over  a 
straight  board,  and  stitched.  The  time  expended  in  their  con- 
struction renders  them  expensive.  A  hundred  dollars  is  not 
an  unusual  price  for  a  fine  saya  ;  one  lasts,  however,  a  year, 
which  must  be  some  consolation  to  fathers  who,  with  moderate 
fortunes,  rejoice  in  many  unmarried  daughters. 

Standing  at  a  door  in  a  fashionable  street,  is  an  easy  way  of 
observing  the  costume  and  characteristics  of  a  large  city.  At 
Lima,  I  found  in  the  course  of  a  day,  that  all  to  be  seen  in  this 
respect  passed  our  hotel. 

In  the  morning,  glided  by  in  one  direction  or  another,  sayas 
y  mantos  of  every  color  and  age,  from  the  new,  lustrous  satin 
of  the  wealthy  young  maiden,  through  the  grades  of  lack-lustre 
of  the  middle  aged,  the  frayed  of  the  old,  and  the  ragged  and 
broken  of  my  lady's  maid.  The  colors  and  ages  of  the  wear- 
ers were  as  various  as  the  sayas  themselves.  In  compliance 
with  promises  of  penance,  some  wore  a  girdle  of  leather,  about 
two  inches  wide,  with  a  long  end  hanging  almost  to  the  feet 
If  "  las  Su61as  de  San  Augustin,"  as  this  girdle  is  termed  for 
some  unknown  reason,  be  the  measure  of  sins,  the  old  women 
have  more  to  answer  for  than  the  young  ones. 

Again  ;  there  are  a  few  females  devoted  to  religion  and  the 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  223 

exercise  of  charity,  who  are  termed  "beatas."  They  wear 
dresses  of  white  worsted,  with  capes  and  hoods  of  the  same. 

Later  in  the  day,  pass  priests  and  friars  of  several  orders. 
The  Mercedarian  appears  in  a  loose  robe  of  white  worsted, 
with  a  black  cape  and  hood  lined  with  white.  His  head  is  bare, 
showing  the  tonsure  and  mathematical  cut  of  his  straightly 
combed  hair,  or  it  is  covered  with  a  clerical  bonnet  of  white. 
The  followers  of  San  Augustin  and  St.  Francis  wear  an  entire- 
ly blue  dress.  The  Dominican  is  distinguished  from  the  Mer- 
cedarian by  the  black  cape  being  cut  in  a  long  point  before  and 
behind.  Both  carry  long  rosaries  and  crosses  suspended  about 
the  neck.  The  Descalzos,  or  barefooted,  of  the  order  of  St 
Francis,  wear  a  sackcloth  robe,  with  pointed  capes,  girt  round 
the  body  with  a  leather  belt,  a  broad  brimmed  hat,  and  san- 
dals. They  carry  a  tin  box  for  receiving  alms,  and  a  long  staff. 
The  brotherhood  or  order  of  Buenamuerte  are  robed  in  black, 
with  a  cross  of  red  cloth  stitched  upon  the  breast. 

The  military,  in  gay  uniforms,  are  seen  walking  and  riding 
at  all  times.  The  collegians  strut  in  black  suits  and  cocked 
hats,  and  judges  are  decorated  with  ribbons  and  medals. 

Then  come  pedlars,  crying  their  goods  and  low  prices,  and 
staggering  under  a  load  of  calicoes,  strung  over  a  stick,  which 
is  supported  at  the  side  by  a  strap  over  the  shoulder.  The  ven- 
der of  lottery  tickets  is  seen  sauntering  along,  with  a  book  filled 
with  sheets  of  tickets  in  one  hand,  and  an  ink-horn  in  the  other, 
bawling  out,  su — ir — te,  and  pausing  at  each  syllable,  and  be- 
fore every  gentleman  he  may  find  standing,  to  importune  him 
to  purchase  a  ticket.  If  disappointed,  he  turns  away,  and  for 
consolation,  shouts  su — 6r — te  as  loud  as  ever. 

From  one  to  two  o'clock,  the  streets  are  alive  with  venders 
of  the  various  messes  eaten  by  families  of  the  middling  class, 
who  seldom  cook  in  their  houses,  but  purchase  their  food  at 
the  door,  ready  for  mastication.  Negro  wenches,  with  trays 
on  the  head,  crying  "tam&l,"  which  is  a  mixture  of  boiled 
corn  and  beans,  with  a  small  piece  of  pork,  put  up  in  a  plan- 
tain leaf,  perambulate  every  street.  Others  carry  various  stews, 
in  tin  cases,  piled  one  above  the  other,  which  they  sell  by  their 
appropriate  names. 


224  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Representations  of  the  most  striking  scenes  of  the  play  for 
the  night,  painted  on  canvass,  are  carried  through  the  streets, 
accompanied  by  the  music  of  drum,  haut-boy,  and  marimba,* 
and  followed  by  a  crowd  of  raggamuffin  boys.  In  the  same 
way,  on  the  morning  and  day  preceding  the  bull-bait,  the 
figures  of  various  fireworks  to  be  exploded  at  the  exhibition, 
are  carried  round. 

Walking  through  the  streets,  there  is  nothing  met  with,  per- 
haps, more  unique  or  characteristic,  than  the  droves  of  jack- 
asses and  mules,  encountered  at  almost  every  step.  The  donkey 
frequently  manifests  the  most  stupid  indifference  in  his  habits, 
seldom  heeding  any  person  or  thing  that  may  come  in  his  way. 
Some  little  vigilance  is  therefore  necessary,  to  avoid  being 
walked  over  by  them,  or  unpleasantly  squeezed  between  their 
loads  and  the  wall. 

Here,  the  street  is  almost  choked  by  asses  laden  with  green 
grass  ;  there,  by  others,  laden  with  stones,  sometimes  so  small, 
that  we  ask  whether  the  animal  can  bear  no  more ;  again,  a  drove 
with  capachos  (small  sacks  of  hide)  filled  with  sand  or  earth. 
Then  comes  the  solitary  borrico  of  the  aguador,  wending  his 
way  in  the  same  unvarying  gait,  though  urged  by  spur  and 
weighty  blows,  habitually  bestowed,  it  would  seem  for  pastime, 
as  an  idle  man  drums  upon  a  table  for  amusement.  The  agua- 
dores  are  all  negroes,  and  wear  a  garb  like  those  in  Valparaiso. 

The  cruel  treatment  of  the  borricos  in  Lima,  is  as  proverbial 
as  the  tyrannical  sway  exercised  by  the  ladies  there  ;  hence 
the  saying,  ""Lima  is  the  heaven  of  women,  the  purgatory  of 
men,  and  the  hell  of  jackasses."  In  order  to  facilitate  the  re- 
spiration of  these  poor  animals,  the  nostrils  are  slit  up  about 
six  inches  ;  and  those  carrying  grass  are  muzzled  with  a  piece 
of  dry  hide,  having  holes  cut  in  it. 

Mules  share  no  better  fate.  They  are  reserved  for  the 
heaviest  labors.  All  the  merchandise  consumed  in  the  interior, 
is  conveyed  thither  on  the  mule's  back.  The  proverbial  stub- 
bornness of  the  mule  is  rarely  manifested  here  ;  a  liberal  be- 
stowal of  dry  blows,  made  ellicacious  by  abusive  epithets,  lias 

*  The  biiine  instrument  is  used  by  tlie  negroes  in  BfuiL 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  225 

produced  so  much  fear  in  the  beast,  that,  all  restive  qualities 
being  radically  removed,  he  has  become  quite  an  amiable  crea- 
ture. Droves  of  them  move  through  the  streets  in  long  files, 
sometimes  laden  with  bars  of  silver  from  the  mines  of  Pasco, 
having  their  heads  tied  to  the  tails  of  those  that  precede  them. 
In  the  morning,  the  baker's  mule,  with  two  great  panniers  of 
dry  hide,  filled  with  rolls,  and  the  baker  mounted  high  on  top, 
is  seen  going  from  door  to  door. 

At  the  corners  of  some  streets,  a  little  remote  from  the  plaza, 
are  occasionally  met  with,  great  heaps  of  cigar  stumps,  spread 
out  for  sale  on  white  cloths — a  cigar  is  not  the  worse  in  Lima 
for  being  partly  smoked  by  a  friend. 

The  decay  of  Lima  is  but  too  evident ;  we  see  some  of  the 
largest  houses,  or'rather  their  ruins,  occupied  by  pulperias,  and 
before  the  doors,  "  ollas"  of  various  stews,  frittering  over  pans 
of  coals.  These  tippling  shops,  in  the  afternoon  and  at  night, 
become  scenes  of  fandangos,  dissipation,  and  brawls  of  every 
kind.  Though  the  streets  are  perambulated  by  watchmen 
who  cry  the  half  hour  after  eight  o'clock,  they  are  of  but  little 
use.  Besides,  there  is  a  military  police  or  guard,  distributed 
in  various  parts  of  the  city,  and  when  passing  any  of  the  posts 
after  nine  o'clock  at  night,  the  sentinel  hails  you  with  "Quien 
vive  ?" — for  whom  ?  you  answer  "la  patria!" — the  country; 
again  he  inquires,  "  Que  gente  ?" — what  sort  of  people  ?  you 
answer,  "gente  de  paz!" — people  of  peace,  and  you  are  per- 
mitted to  pass  on. 

After  ten  o'clock  at  night  the  streets  are  very  dark,  unless 
when  the  moon  shines.  About  that  hour  the  candles  in  the 
great  lanterns,  hung  over  each  door-way  by  requisition  of  the 
law,  burn  out,  and  are  not  replaced;  as  this  is  the  only  means  of 
lighting  the  streets,  they  become  gloomy  after  that  hour,  and 
hence  it  is  customary  for  persons  walking  late  at  night,  to  be 
preceded  by  a  servant  with  a  lantern.  Even  this  precaution 
is  not  always  sufficient  to  save  the  passenger  from  the  uncon- 
genial showers  which  are  occasionally  hurled  from  the  balco- 
nies, though  one  should  cry,  gardez  Veau! 

The  market  is  near  the  convent  of  San  Francisco.  Along 
the  street,  spread  upon  the  ground,  there  is  a  display  of  all 
29 


226  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

kinds  of  vegetables  and  fruits — Lima  is  never  without  fruit 
of  one  sort  or  another — shaded  by  mats  propped  up  by  reeds, 
which  is  thn  only  accommodation  prepared.  Here  you  meet 
more  frequently  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  city,  begging 
friars,  carrying  an  image  of  the  virgin,  whose  kisses  they  sell 
at  a  real  each;  and  sometimes  an  orange  or  potato  will  buy 
one.  On  the  back  of  the  silver  case  which  holds  the  picture, 
is  inscribed  the  advertisement  of  some  one  indulgence  to  be 
obtained  by  kissing  it  and  bestowing  alms. 

The  country  around  Lima  is  beautifully  fertile,  and  by  irri- 
gation yields  every  variety  of  fruit  and  vegetable.  The  broad 
valley  of  Lurigancho,  which  is  in  sight  from  the  walls,  sup- 
plies the  market  with  the  greatest  abundance. 

Amongst  the  vegetables  are  several  varieties  of  peas  and 
beans;  quinoa,  a  small  seed  resembling  millet;  lentils,  toma- 
toes, carrots,  cucumbers,  yuca  (a  long  fusiform  root),  cabbages, 
cauliflowers,  egg  plants,  lettuce,  celery  (which  grows  wild  in 
many  parts  of  the  country),  peppers,  camotes  or  sweet  pota- 
toes, and  two  kinds  of  potatoes  ;  one  known  by  the  term 
Irish,  and  another  of  a  similar  kind,  but  yellow  as  an  orange, 
and  far  superior  to  the  first.  It  grows  only  on  the  mountains; 
many  trials  have  been  made  to  transplant  it  to  the  valleys  and 
to  Chile,  but  it  was  found  to  degenerate  in  a  very  short  time. 
The  potato  grows  wild  in  many  parts  both  of  Peru  and  Chile; 
numerous  roots  have  been  taken  from  the  top  of  the  island  of 
San  Lorenzo. 

The  principal  fruits  are  cherimoyas,  limas  or  sweet  lemons, 
sour  lemons,  limes,  pine  apples,  oranges,  two  kinds  of  grapes, 
pomegranates,  granadillas,  plantains,  bananas,  a  variety  of 
melons,  strawberries,  which  grow  very  large,  lucumas,  tunos, 
figs  (two  crops),  paltas,  besides  apples,  peaches,  pears,  &c. 

The  cherimoya  (annona  squamosa)  is  esteemed  among  the 
best  of  fruits.  It  grows  from  two  to  six  inches  in  diameter, 
and  is  of  a  conoidal  shape,  with  a  depression  in  the  centre  of 
its  base  where  the  stem  is  attached.  Externally  it  is  dark 
green,  and  has  a  loricate  or  scale-like  surface;  internally  it  is 
a  cream  white.  It  contains  a  centre  core,  with  a  number  ol 
black  seeds  about  five  lines  long  ranged  around  it.     The  pulp. 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  227 

the  taste  of  which  has  been  generally  compared  to  that  of 
strawberries  and  cream,  though  not  very  correctly,  is  eaten 
with  a  spoon.  Its  exquisitely  luscious  flavor  is  enhanced  by 
adding  the  juice  of  a  sweet  orange  ;  commend  me  to  cheri- 
moya  and  orange  juice  to  enrapture  my  palate! 

The  tree,  which  is  very  delicate,  and  will  not  bear  frost,  is 
from  sixteen  to  seventeen  years  in  coming  to  maturity  from 
the  seed.  In  Bolivia  it  attains  a  very  large  size;  but  its  fruit 
cannot  excel  that  brought  to  Payta  from  the  valley  of  Piura. 
Ehret  writes  it,  "  Cherimolia,"  and  from  the  frequency  of 
changing  the  y  for  the  //,  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  it  was 
originally  "  Cherimolia."  The  botanic  appellation  given  by 
the  above  named  gentleman  is,  Guanabanus  Persese. 

The  palta  resembles  (he  pear  in  shape.  In  ils  centre  there 
is  a  large  sione,  the  juice  of  which  being  indelible,  is  used  as 
a  dye  and  for  marking  linen.  This  stone  or  kernel,  whose 
consistence  is  about  the  same  as  that  of  (he  chestnut,  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  greenish  white  pulp,  usually  eaten  on  bread, 
with  pepper  and  salt,  as  a  substitute  for  butter,  which  in  Lima 
is  rare,  and  seldom  good.  It  is  preferred  by  some,  dressed 
with  sugar  and  lemon  juice  ;  in  either  way  it  is  excellent, 
though  not  generally  liked  when  first,  tasted.  It  is  esteemed 
a  wholesome  fruit,  and  Frezier  states,  I  know  not  on  what 
authority,  that  it  is  provocative  of  love!  In  the  Carribee 
islands  it  is  called  avocai;  at  Panama,  and  on  the  island  of 
Taboga,  where  it  grows  in  great  perfection,  "  Aguacate." 
The  tree,  which  somewhat  resembles  the  pear  tree,  is  from 
six  to  eight  years  in  coming  to  maturity  from  the  seed. 

The  granadilla  is  the  fruit  of  the  passion  flower,  (passiflora 
ccerulea,)  which  is  indigenous  to  America,  and  named  by 
pious  Spaniards  from  the  fancied  resemblance  which  its  parts 
bear  to  the  instruments  used  at  the  crucifixion.  In  Chile  the 
plant  does  not  yield  fruit.  The  granadilla  is  oval  in  shape,  or 
rather  egg-like,  and  has  a  smooth  yellowish  surface,  resem- 
bling that  of  the  mock-orange.  When  broken,  it  is  found  to 
be  a  hard,  slightly  brittle  shell,  lined  with  a  soft  velvety 
membrane,  which  contains  a  pulp  of  rather  more  consistence 
than  the  white  of  an  egg,  filled  with  flattened,  dark  colored 


228  TIIREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

seeds.  Without  much  outraging  the  propriety  generally  ob- 
served in  naming  things  from  resemblance,  I  have  thought 
that  it  might  be  called  the  egg  fruit.  The  pulp  has  a  pleasant, 
sub-acid  taste,  and  is  esteemed  wholesome. 

In  other  particulars,  what  has  been  observed  of  the  Callao 
market  is  applicable  to  this. 

It  is  not  unusual  to  see  hung  up  on  the  shambles  parts  of  a 
chicken  or  turkey,  as  legs,  wings,  necks,  &c,  so  as  to  accom- 
modate those  who  are  desirous  of  eating  poultry,  but  who 
cannot  well  afford  to  pay  for  an  entire  fowl. 

The  first  cafe  opened  in  Lima  was  in  1771.  It  is  remark- 
able that  in  Lima  there  is  not  a  single  hotel  kept  by  a  native 
for  the  accommodation  of  strangers.  When  they  come  to  the 
metropolis  from  any  part  of  the  country,  they  either  lodge 
with  their  friends  if  they  have  any,  or  hire  furnished  rooms 
and  eat  at  some  of  the  cafes;  or  purchase  their  meals  in  the 
streets  after  the  manner  of  many  private  families.  Except  at 
the  French  and  English  hotels,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  an 
ordinary  or  table  d'hote  in  Lima;  at  the  cafes,  two  of  which 
are  very  extensive,  a  bill  of  fare  is  kept,  and  whatever  the 
visiter  calls  for  is  served  on  small  marble  tables.  In  fact,  the 
cafes  in  Lima  are  under  similar  management  to  those  in  the 
great  cities  in  Spain  ;  a  regulation  issued  there  at  one  period, 
is  much  called  for  in  this  city.  An  order,  put  forth  at  Madrid 
for  the  better  government  of  the  cafes,  directed  that  the 
apartments  should  be  kept  clean;  that  every  person  should  be 
served  on  a  clean  plate,  because  by  the  spilling  of  coffee  and 
other  drinks  on  the  clothes  they  were  spoiled;  and  that  the 
servants  should  appear  clean,  and  without  hat  or  cap,  and  if 
possible  with  their  heads  combed.  The  enforcing  of  the  lat- 
ter clause,  I  fear  would  be  attended  with  difficulty,  at  least 
with  the  class  of  persons  referred  to,  for  many  men  of  respect- 
able standing  in  life  are  singularly  neglectful  of  that  part  of 
the  person  both  internally  and  externally.* 

•  Mercurio  Peruano,  vol.  i.  p.  111. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  229 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Convent  of  St.  Augustin — Monastery  of  La  Incarnacion — Convent  of  Santo 
Domingo — Negros  Bozales — Convent  of  San  Francisco — Our  Lady  of  Mer- 
cies— San  Pedro — Library — Churches — Bells — Inquisition — Museum — Uni- 
versity of  St.  Mark — Hall  of  Deputies — Charities — Hospitals. 

The  convent  of  San  Augustin  is  amongst  the  oldest  in  Lima. 
It  occupied  a  whole  square,  but  in  1825,  the  minister,  Montea- 
gudo,  caused  a  part  of  it  to  be  torn  clown,  to  widen  the  street, 
and  form  a  small  plaza  before  the  theatre.*  The  church  is  situ- 
ated on  one  corner  of  the  vast  pile.  Its  front  is  a  field  of  carv- 
ing and  statues  of  saints.  Over  the  great  door  is  San  Augustin, 
trampling  three  or  four  of  his  prostrate  enemies  under  his  feet. 
On  his  head  is  a  mitre,  and  in  his  hand  a  book  with  a  miniature 
temple  upon  it,  indicating  the  foundation  of  the  Christian 
church. 

The  interior  is  similar  in  its  general  arrangements  to  the  ca- 
thedral. It  has  its  several  chapels,  sacristy,  &c,  and  glories 
in  a  goodly  number  of  holy  reliques. 

The  convent  is  divided  into  several  large  courts,  surrounded 
by  corridors,  supported  on  arches  and  columns,  which  com- 
municate with  each  other  both  above  and  below.  The  court 
adjoining  the  church  is  termed  the  cloister.  The  principal 
events  of  the  life  of  St.  Augustin  are  represented  in  a  series  of 
paintings,  which  are  hung  round  the  walls,  and,  to  protect 
them  from  the  weather,  closed  by  light  shutters,  except  on 
certain  feast  days,  amongst  which  is  the  anniversary  of  the 
saint.  Of  this  vast  pile  only  a  few  apartments  are  now  tenant- 
ed. Its  refectory  is  no  longer  redolent  of  the  odors  of  the 
kitchen ;  its  fountains  are  choked,  and  its  gardens  have  ceased 
to  regale  the  senses  with  their  productions.  Of  the  hundred 
friars  who  lived  within  its  walls  twenty  years  ago,  scarcely 
one-third  remains.    The  patriots,  in  breaking  from  the  yoke 

*  This  act,  it  is  said,  led  to  the  assassination  of  that  minister  soon  afterwards. 


230  THREE   VEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  thrall  of  Spain,  defaced  the  great  bulwarks  of  her  strength  ; 
they  left  most  of  the  convents  of  Peru  in  a  state  of  ruin. 

The  history  of  the  foundation  of  the  order  of  St.  Augustin 
is  given  in  detail  by  the  Fray  Antonio  cle  la  Calancha,  in  a 
folio  volume  of  a  thousand  pages,  entitled,  "  Choronica  del 
Orden  de  San  Augustin,"  in  which  he  dwells  upon  the  diffi- 
culties encountered  by  the  founder. 

About  the  year  1547  or  4S,  as  is  stated  in  several  convent 
registers,  the  Reverend  Fray  Francisco  de  Viloria,  a  man  of 
apostolic  virtues  and  talentsvcame  to  settle  in  Peru,  as  the  first 
commissary  general  of  the  province,  (in  the  church  acceptation 
of  the  term),  in  company  with  a  number  of  friars  and  minis- 
ters of  the  Franciscan  order.  In  the  same  ship  with  them  was 
the  Reverend  Padre  Fray  Augustin  de  la  Santisima  Trinidad, 
who,  by  the  order  of  Charles  V.,  preceded  as  a  pioneer  the 
legion  that  was  to  found  the  order  of  St.  Augustin  in  Peru. 

Amongst  those  whom  the  Fray  Francisco  brought  under  his 
protection,  was  his  niece,  the  virtuous  and  noble  Lady  Dona 
Juana  de  Cepeda.  This  lady  was  young  and  beautiful,  and 
much  given  to  converse  about  the  holy  spirit  with  our  Fray 
Augustin,  for  whom  she  entertained  a  filial  regard.  It  was 
not  because  she  could  not  have  found  his  equal,  or  even  supe- 
rior, if  she  had  sought  for  such  a  one  in  the  pious  train  of  her 
uncle;  but  having  fallen  ill  when  very  young,  she  had  dedi- 
cated herself  to  our  Lady  of  Grace,  who  is  worshipped  by  all 
of  the  Augustin  religion,  and  promised  to  celebrate  her  annual 
feast,  if  permitted  to  recover  ;  and  it  was  this  circumstance 
which  inclined  her  towards  the  Fray  Augustin. 

They  all  arrived  safely  in  Lima,  at  a  period  when  the  coun- 
try was  still  distracted  by  the  civil  wars  which  broke  out  be- 
fore the  death  of  Pizarro.  Then,  it  appeared  that  the  care  of 
every  one  was  either  to  avoid  death  or  inflict  it;  individuals, 
seeing  the  strife  of  civil  war,  only  thought  of  providing  for 
their  own  security  and  convenience.  The  Fra)'  Augustin  fixed 
his  abode  in  a  small  house  near  the  city  shambles,  which  were 
then  where  now  stands  the  convent  of  "  La  Limpisima  Con- 
cepcion."  There  he  lived  poorly  indeed,  for  in  those  warlike 
times,  the  rich  thought  not  of  bestowing  alms  or  of  succoring 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  231 

the  religious.  A  few  months  passed  away,  and  Dona  Juana 
de  Cepeda  was  espoused  by  a  gallant  cavalier,  Don  Ernan 
Gonzalez  de  la  Torre.  He  had  served  in  many  battles  against 
the  Indians  with  Pizarro ;  he  raised  the  siege  of  Lima,  and 
contributed  greatly  to  the  general  pacification  of  Peru ;  when 
the  Marquis  was  assassinated,  he  had  gone  to  meet  the  judge, 
Vaca  de  Castro.  This  cavalier  was  both  valiant  and  wealthy, 
yet  with  Doila  Juana  he  received  a  rich  dower,  in  her  treasure 
of  nobleness  and  virtue.  The  nuptials  of  such  a  pair  were  pub- 
lished far  and  wide,  for  they  were  powerful  and  rich  ! 

So  soon  as  the  news  reached  our  Fray  Augustin  in  his  hum- 
ble dwelling,  he  went  to  congratulate  Doila  Juana  upon  her 
good  fortune,  and  to  manifest  his  joy  on  seeing  virtue  rewarded 
in  the  opulence  of  her  house.  They  conversed  about  the  spi- 
rit; and  when  he  found  her  properly  disposed,  he  lamented 
his  poverty,  the  inconvenience  of  his  dwelling,  and  above  all, 
complained  that,  having  neglected  to  bring  with  him  a  part  of 
the  cedula  of  the  emperor,  he  could  obtain  neither  aid,  nor 
even  a  site  whereon  to  found  a  chapel.  Having  impressed 
upon  Doiia  Juana  that  God  had  given  her  great  prosperity  and 
wealth,  he  told  her  that  it  was  now  her  duty  to  repay  heaven 
in  part  for  the  blessings  she  had  received,  by  assisting  him  in 
his  deplorable  situation. 

The  pious  lady  spoke  to  him  consoling  words,  but,  as  every 
prudent  wife  should  do  in  such  a  case,  withheld  an  answer  to 
the  prayer,  till  after  she  had  consulted  with  her  husband.  The 
Fray  Augustin,  confiding  more  in  God,  in  whose  cause  he  was 
embarked,  than  in  the  promises  of  the  world,  as  a  less  devout 
man  might  have  done,  returned  to  his  cell,  to  await  the  result 
of  this  visit. 

The  next  day,  Dona  Juana  de  la  Cepeda  sent  for  the  lonely 
Father,  and  when  he  arrived,  told  him,  in  great  joy,  that 
through  the  blessing  of  God,  his  desires  should  be  fulfilled. 
Her  husband  had  given  her  power  to  afford  unlimited  aid,  and, 
to  contribute  the  more  to  his  convenience,  desired  him  to  build 
the  chapel  near  his  own  house,  in  which  he  most  generously 
offered  all  that  heart  could  ask.  And  in  order  to  accomplish 
her  vow,  and  to  comply  with  her  obligation,  she  further  wished 


232  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


a  chapel  to  be  built  and  dedicated  to  our  Lady  of  Grace.  Here 
the  worthy  Calancha  breaks  forth  in  a  pious  ejaculation  ;  "Oh! 
providence  of  God  !  to  inflict  disease  upon  this  virtuous  lady, 
while  yet  young,  that  she  might,  when  growing  old,  succor 
the  poor — and  when  a  poor  maiden,  to. incline  her  to  devotion, 
that  she  might  protect  the  religious  when  rich  !"  She  gave 
him  a  home,  a  situation,  silver,  gold,  and  a  maintenance;  she 
raised  up  the  first  Augustin  altar  in  Peru,  and  placed  thereon 
the  image  of  the  blessed  Virgin,  our  Lady  of  Grace.  It  is  now 
in  a  chapel  of  the  convent,  and  was  then  in  the  house  of  that 
noble  cavalier,  Don  Ernan  Gonzalez  de  la  Torre,  one  square 
from  the  parish  of  San  Marcelo.  There  the  Fray  Augustin 
lived  two  years,  under  the  protection  of  his  benefactors,  await- 
ing the  arrival  of  the  eleven  Augustin  Friars,  required  to  com- 
plete the  legion  and  foundation  of  their  order. 

The  royal  edict  for  the  founding  of  the  convent,  bears  date 
Valladolid,  March  23,  1550,  and  provides  that  the  Indians 
shall  assist  in  its  erection,  which  is  to  be  at  the  expense  of  the 
emperor.  The  twelve  evangelic  fathers  left  Salamanca  in  the 
same  month,  and,  embarking  at  Cadizr  crossed  the  Isthmus, 
and  after  a  passage  of  seven  months,  reached  Lima.  The  con- 
vent was  begun  almost  immediately  afterwards,  and  from  that 
period  rejoices  in  the  number  of  pious  laborers  in  the  great 
work  of  converting  the  Indians. 

La  Incarnacion,  a  convent  of  nuns  of  the  order  of  San  Au- 
gustin, was  founded  in  1554.  In  1631,  it  contained  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty-three  nuns  of  the  black,  and  thirty-seven  of 
the  white  veil,  together  with  eighteen  novices,  who,  with  se- 
culars, servants,  and  slaves,  increased  the  number  of  females 
in  the  convent  to  eight  hundred ;  at  present,  scarcely  one-six- 
teenth can  be  found.  When  they  removed  from  their  first 
dwelling,  to  the  present  convent,  the  streets  were  hung  with 
silks,  and  the  way  strewed  with  mint  and  Mowers,  and  the  vice- 
roy, the  bishop,  and  the  prelates  of  the  church,  accompanied 
them. 

The  nuns  of  La  Incarnacion  profess  three  vows;  poverty, 
obedience,  and  chastity  ;  though  the  cloister  is  not  enjoined, 
they  observe  it  religiously.    Their  several  officers  arc  elected 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  233 

from  amongst  themselves,  every  three  years.  The  time  not 
devoted  to  vigils  and  other  religious  ceremonies,  is  employed 
in  making  sweetmeats,  pastillas,  artificial  flowers,  &c,  which 
are  sold  at  the  convent  door.  Notwithstanding  that  poverty 
is  professed  in  many  nunneries,  several  of  them  are  wealthy, 
and  require  each  novice  to  bring  with  her  a  dower  of  from  one 
to  four  thousand  dollars,  which,  on  the  death  of  the  nun,  be- 
comes the  property  of  the  convent. 

As  is  generally  the  case  with  all  institutions  of  the  kind, 
there  is  a  romantic  tale  connected  with  the  foundation  of  this 
nunnery,  which  is  related  by  the  Fray  Calancha. 

When  the  Captain  General  of  Peru,  Pablo  de  Meneses,  ar- 
rived at  Pucara  with  the  royal  camp,  Francisco  Ernandez  Gi- 
ron  attempted  to  surprise  it  by  night,  with  eight  hundred  chosen 
men,  armed  with  arquebuses  and  lances.  This  was  on  Sun- 
day, October  7th  1554.  He  was  betrayed  by  Francisco  Men- 
dez,  and  Domingo  Ollave  Vizcaino,  who  went  over  to  the  royal 
army.  A  battle  took  place.  Both  fought  most  valiantly,  but 
the  arms  of  the  king  were  triumphant. 

The  following  night,  Giron  determined  to  fly;  not  through 
fear  of  the  royal  army,  but  because  his  camp  was  mutinous, 
and  he  was  apprehensive  of  being  assassinated.  He  therefore 
sent  Gonzalo  Vasquez,  with  a  religious  friar,  to  urge  his  lady, 
Dona  Mencia  de  Sosa,  to  remain  behind,  that  he  might  have 
no  impediment  in  flight.  She  manifested  much  affliction  at  the 
communication  of  his  desire,  and  replied:  "Ever  since  Fran- 
cisco Ernandez  Giron  took  me  from  the  house  of  my  fathers, 
I  have  borne  him  company,  and  I  do  not  wish  to  part  from 
him  now;  but  would  follow  him,  and  be  his  partner  in  toil,  as 
I  have  been  in  his  honors  and  prosperity.  Though  my  hus- 
band do  not  concede  this  through  love,  he  must  through  ne- 
cessity, for  I  will  follow  him  on  foot,  with  a  staff  in  my  hand, 
and  never  shrink  back  from  difficulties  nor  distress  !" — "  Rare 
example  of  female  fortitude,  and  of  a  perfect  wife !"  piously 
exclaims  the  good  Fray  Calancha. 

When  Giron  heard  this,  he  said;  "  Lady,  God  never  ordained 
that  I  should  leave  thee  against  thy  will;  therefore,  prepare 
thyself  at  once,  and  follow  me."  Dona  Mencia  hastened  her 
30 


234  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

servants  in  their  preparations  for  immediate  departure.  The 
friends  of  Giron  murmured,  and  remonstrated  against  his  hav- 
ing the  hindrance  of  a  wife  in  his  flight.  At  last,  upon  their 
solicitation,  he  consented  to  leave  her.  He  hade  her  an  affec- 
tionate adieu,  and  she  swooned  away  !  On  her  recovery,  she 
inquired  for  her  husband,  and  ascending  a  height,  looked  after 
him  in  every  direction.  He  had  gone.  She  dissembled  her 
grief,  and,  thinking  more  of  his  defence  than  of  her  own  safety, 
prevailed  upon  several  of  the  captains  to  follow  her  husband. 
She  was  left  alone,  poor,  without  even  a  change  of  dress,  or  a 
servant,  for  all  had  been  sent  off  when  she  determined  to  fol- 
low her  lord. 

Captain  Ruibarba  carried  Dona  Mencia  to  Cuzco,  where  she 
was  protected  by  her  relation,  the  Oidor,  Saravia.  Thence, 
with  every  attention  to  which  her  high  rank  entitled  her,  she 
was  conducted  to  her  father's  house  in  Lima.  Giron  was  taken. 
She  heard  the  executioner  proclaim  before  her  father's  door ; 
"By  his  Majesty,  and  the  magnificent  Cavalier  Don  Pedro 
Puertocarrero,  Maestre  de  Campo,  this  doom  is  ordered  to  be 
executed  upon  this  man,  as  a  traitor  to  the  royal  crown,  and 
as  a  disturber  of  the  public  peace. — His  head  to  be  stricken  off, 
and  fixed  on  the  scaffold  of  the  city ;  his  houses  to  be  razed, 
and  the  ground  sowed  with  salt,  and  a  marble  monument  to  be 
erected  thereon,  to  commemorate  his  crimes." 

Upon  hearing  this  proclamation,  she  turned  to  a  crucifix  and 
said  ;  "  Thy  will  be  done  ;  receive  the  pang  which  pierces  my 
soul;  place  it  with  those  which  afflicted  thy  holy  body,  and 
grant  that  my  husband  died  in  thy  grace,  and  that  I  may  re- 
main, henceforward,  under  thy  protection  ;  I  desire  no  other 
husband ;  my  whole  life  shall  be  dedicated  to  thy  love  !"  She 
bore  with  Christian  fortitude  the  spectacle  of  the  body  of  the 
husband  she  so  tenderly  loved,  dragged  through  the  streets  at 
the  tail  of  a  horse  ! 

After  this,  Doila  Mencia,  and  her  mother,  Dona  Leonor 
Puertocarrero,  dedicated  themselves  to  penance,  and  the  dis- 
charge of  charitable  acts  and  religious  services.  With  the  aid 
of  the  Augustin  friars,  they  soon  became  the  founders  of  the 
convent  of  La  Incarnacion. — "  Wonderful,"  says  Calancha, 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  235 

"  are  the  ways  of  Providence,  who  disposes  of  remote  means  for 
the  accomplishment  of  convenient  ends!" 

The  convent  of  Santo  Domingo  occupies  an  entire  square.  It 
is  divided  into  four  great  courts  or  quadrangles,  surrounded 
by  corridors,  supported  on  arches  of  brick.  Various  rooms  and 
offices  open  on  these  corridors.  Their  walls  are  hung  with 
paintings,  illustrative  of  sacred  history,  but  none  of  them  can 
be  considered  as  a  very  meritorious  production.  It  has  a  small 
garden  and  a  fountain.  One  of  its  sides  overlooks  the  Rimac, 
and  has  a  fine  view  of  the  bridge,  the  river,  and  the  country 
around. 

Under  one  of  the  flights  of  broad  stairs,  leading  from  a  court 
to  a  corridor,  is  a  small  chapel,  dedicated  to  San  Martin.  Over 
its  altar  is  suspended  a  burning  lamp,  which  is  constantly  fed. 
On  the  door  there  is  a  notice,  that  an  illustrious  bishop  con- 
cedes eighty  days  of  indulgence,  to  any  person  who  will  de- 
voutly pray  one  salve  before  the  image.  This  chapel  is  illu- 
minated every  Friday. 

The  church  is  on  the  corner  of  the  building,  and  attached  to 
it  is  the  highest  steeple  in  Lima,  furnished  with  several  very 
large,  fine  toned  bells.  The  church  is  nearly  three  hundred 
feet  long,  by  eighty  broad.  The  ceiling  is  arched,  and  covered 
with  many  curious  mouldings  and  ornaments.  The  square  co- 
lumns and  pilasters  which  sustain  its  lofty  arches,  are  hung 
with  crimson  velvet  with  deep  borders  of  gold.  At  one  end 
is  the  great  altar,  and  at  the  other  a  gallery  for  the  choir.  To 
the  right  and  left  of  the  "altar  mayor"  are  two  smaller  ones; 
the  first  dedicated  to  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima,  and  the  other  to 
Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary.  On  the  altar  of  Santa  Rosa  is  a  re- 
presentation of  that  saint  sleeping  in  a  bed,  attended  by  an 
angel.  I  took  it  to  be  a  plaster  cast,  but  a  lay  brother  of  the 
convent  assured  me  that  it  was  marble.  Above  it  is  a  cu- 
riously carved  box,  containing  the  saint's  skull.  Next  to  her, 
on  the  lateral  wall,  is  the  altar  of  Santo  Domingo,  the  patron 
of  this  convent;  every  Tuesday  morning,  at  seven  o'clock,  the 
reliques  of  that  saint,  kept  in  the  intervals  locked  in  a  casket, 
are  publicly  exhibited. 

"  Sweet  sight  for  vulgar  eyes  !" 


296  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Opposite  to  the  shrine  of  Santa  Rosa  is  a  chapel  of  "  Nuestra 
Senora  del  Rosario  de  los  Natales."  Between  them  are  several 
shrines  and  altars,  many  of  which  are  beautifully  ornamented 
with  miniature  figures,  representing  portions  of  biblical  his- 
tory. The  opposite  side  of  the  church  is  taken  up  with  altars 
of  saints  and  paintings. 

When  I  first  visited  this  church,  the  great  altar  was  illumi- 
nated, and  mass  was  chanting  for  the  rest  of  the  souls  of  some 
departed  brothers  of  the  convent.  From  it  I  passed  to  the 
cloister,  around  which  the  history  and  genealogy  of  Santo  Do- 
mingo is  presented  in  a  series  of  paintings.  The  entire  wall, 
below  its  corridor,  is  covered  with  pictures  and  Dutch  tiles. 
Several  rooms  occupy  its  different  sides,  the  largest  of  which 
was  the  refectory,  but  now  a  dusty,  unfurnished  hall,  ani- 
mated by  thousands  of  fleas,  that  skip  joyfully  over  every  vi- 
siter, from  whom  they  seldom  depart  without  leaving  marks 
of  their  fondness. 

I  found  a  knot  of  friars  and  lay  brothers  in  the  cloister,  chat- 
ting and  smoking  cigars.  1  addressed  the  cleanest  of  them, 
(cleanliness  was  not  a  remarkable  trait  in  any  of  the  Domi- 
nicans) who,  at  my  request,  ordered  one  of  the  lay  brothers  to 
conduct  me  through  the  premises.  This  cicerone  proved  to  be 
almost  totally  ignorant  of  the  history  of  the  convent,  except, 
indeed,  touching  its  former  wealth,  present  poverty,  and  deface- 
ment by  the  patriot  troops  quartered  in  it  by  San  Martin. 

Previous  to  the  revolution,  this  convent  possessed  three 
sugar  plantations,  besides  other  real  estate.  Nearly  all  this 
property  has  been  taken  by  the  government,  and  in  lieu  of  it, 
each  friar  receives  monthly  fifteen  dollars.  In  1820,  it  con- 
tained one  hundred  and  sixty  friars;  in  1829,  ninety-five;  and 
in  1833,  only  fifty-three.  They  now  depend  upon  alms,  given 
for  masses,  and  the  small  monthly  salary  for  their  maintenance. 

Until  within  a  few  years,  there  was  a  splendid  procession 
from  this  convent  the  day  preceding  Good  Friday.  In  it  were 
carried  on  tables,  covered  with  sheets  of  silver,  the  image  of 
Santa  Catalina,  the  crowning  with  thorns,  Jesus  the  Nazarin, 
in  a  robe  of  purple  velvet,  under  a  canopy  of  the  same,  fringed 
with  fine  gold,  bearing  the  holy  cross;  "Nuestra  Senora  dc  la 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  237 

Soled&d,"  accompanied  by  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  under  a 
canopy  of  blue  velvet  fringed  with  fine  silver;  and  the  holy 
relique  of  the  Sanctum  Lignum  Cruris,  carried  in  a  silver 
sagrario.  The  whole  was  followed  by  the  brotherhood  of  St. 
Dominique,  assisted  by  all  the  nobles  of  the  city,  bearing  wax 
candles  of  a  pound  each,  and  preceded  by  the  provincial  and 
prior.  Both  instrumental  and  vocal  music  accompanied  this 
procession.  It  took  place  at  ten  o'clock  at  night,  and  passed 
through  several  streets  to  the  plaza,  and  back  to  the  convent.* 

Connected  with  the  convent  of  Santo  Domingo  are  the  seve- 
ral congregations  of  the  "Negros  Bozales,"  composed  of  the 
slaves  of  Lima  and  its  vicinity.  The  curious  annual  feasts  of 
this  degraded  people  are  still  celebrated  in  the  church,  though 
not  with  as  much  eclat  as  in  former  years. 

In  Lima  are  the  descendants  of  ten  different  African  tribes, 
viz.  the  Terranovos,  Lucumes,  Mandingas,  Cambundas,  Cara- 
baltes,  Cangaes,  Chalas,  Huarochiries,  Congos,  and  Misangas. 
All  these  names  are  not  derived  from  the  respective  coun- 
tries of  the  different  castes,  but  some  are  arbitrary,  as  the 
Huarochiries. 

All  these  castes  are  subject  to  two  corporals,  elected  for  life 
from  amongst  themselves.  The  election  is  held  in  the  chapel  of 
"  Nuestra  Senora  del  Rosario,"  founded  in  this  convent  by  the 
several  nations.  Those  who  vote  are  chief  negroes,  and  twenty- 
four  from  each  nation  forming  a  brotherhood.  The  election 
takes  place  in  the  presence  of  the  chaplain  ;  the  oldest,  and 
those  descended  from  the  original  founders  are  generally  no- 
minated, and  when  elected,  have  their  names  recorded  in  a 
book  kept  for  the  purpose.  The  same  formalities  are  observed 
in  the  election  of  sub-corporals  or  members  of  the  brotherhoods 
of  twenty-four.  To  be  admitted,  the  corporal  contributes  ten 
dollars,  and  the  brother  twelve,  one-half  of  which  is  devoted 
to  the  worship  of  Our  Lady,  and  the  other  for  refreshments  at 
the  election  feast.  These  offices  confer  high  consideration 
upon  their  functionaries  in  the  tribe,  but  they  do  not  alleviate 
in  any  degree  the  pains  of  slavery.    To  show  how  little  their 

*  Diario  de  Lima,  for  April  1791. 


238  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

rank  and  titles  availed  them,  it  is  stated,  that  a  gentleman  see- 
ing a  negro  in  the  stocks,  on  a  neighboring  farm,  asked  who 
he  was.  The  other  slaves  replied,  "that  is  the  King  of 
Congo  !" 

To  defray  the  expenses  of  the  feast  of  our  Lady  of  the  Ro- 
sary, each  individual  pays  a  half  real  on  the  first  Sunday  after 
Corpus,  at  a  small  table  placed  in  front  of  the  church ;  and  on 
the  death  of  any  one  of  the  corporals  or  brothers,  each  brother- 
hood contributes  six  reales  to  defray  the  expense  of  masses 
and  responses. 

In  by-gone  days,  the  several  brotherhoods  worshipped  their 
respective  saints  in  different  convents,  but  now,  those  of  this 
convent  only  remain. 

The  principal  feast  is  celebrated  on  the  Sunday  of  the  "In- 
fraoctava  of  Corpus."  All  the  tribes  assemble,  and  form  a  pro- 
cession, which  moves  from  the  convent  of  Santo  Domingo. 
Each  one  carries  its  standard,  under  which  walks  the  king  or 
queen,  with  a  sceptre  in  the  right  hand,  and  a  stick  in  the  left. 
They  are  accompanied  by  noisy  and  disagreeably  toned  instru- 
ments, amongst  which  the  hautboy,  marimba,  and  a  rude 
drum,  are  most  conspicuous.  In  fact,  there  is  scarcely  a  proces- 
sion in  Lima,  whether  civic,  religious,  or  military,  in  which 
some  of  these  instruments  are  not  seen,  and  what  is  worse, 
heard,  following  in  the  rear.  The  negroes,  on  this  occasion, 
dress  and  decorate  themselves  in  a  most  grotesque  manner; 
some  paint  their  faces  with  various  colors,  and  others  resemble 
so  many  fiends  from  another  world.  The  women  ornament 
the  hair  with  a  profusion  of  jasmine  flowers  and  gilt  paper. 
Some  of  them  carry  a  long  pole,  hung  with  pieces  of  tin,  rib- 
bons, and  tinsel-paper,  around  which  a  half  dozen  circulate  in 
a  slow  dance,  as  they  advance,  screeching  in  most  discordant 
tones,  while  the  pole  is  stricken  on  the  ground,  in  time  to  what 
they  call  music,  causing  a  rattling  and  clattering,  not  easily 
described. 

These  customs  were  probably  brought  from  the  countries 
whence  the  slaves  were  taken,  and  are  still  preserved  by  their 
descendants,  but  not  so  strictly  observed  now,  as  when  they 
were  first  engrafted  upon  the  Roman  Church  in  Peru.   At  first 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  239 

it  was  allowed,  as  a  sort  of  consolation,  which  every  nation, 
savage  and  civilized,  seeks  in  its  religion,  in  times  of  adversity, 
and  was  afterwards  maintained  as  lucrative  to  the  convents  and 
churches  to  which  they  resorted. 

In  1791,  there  were  sixteen  of  these  brotherhoods,  that  held 
meetings,  over  which  a  corporal  presided  as  president ;  and 
they  were  extremely  jealous  of  rank  on  these  occasions.  They 
had  their  dances  and  their  feasts,  and  when  any  one  of  them 
died,  they  watched  over  the  body  during  the  night,  the  rela- 
tives sitting  round,  and  frequently  breaking  forth  in  apostro- 
phes of  grief.  When  a  widow  put  off  mourning,  or  ceased  to 
mourn  for  her  husband,  and  was  about  to  marry  again,  she 
was  carried  in  a  chair  to  the  house  of  the  brotherhood,  where 
she  made  demonstrations  of  the  deepest  sorrow,  and  if  she  fail- 
ed to  enact  her  part  satisfactorily,  she  was  castigated  without 
mercy.  As  she  entered  the  door,  a  lamb  was  slain  upon  one 
of  the  seats  in  the  apartment ;  and  she  presented,  on  a  tray,  all 
the  old  shoes  she  had  worn  during  widowhood.  Having  made 
this  sacrifice  to  the  manes  of  her  husband,  the  preliminaries  of 
the  marriage  were  settled,  and  the  ceremony  concluded  in  fes- 
tivity. 

When  a  negro,  however,  lost  his  wife,  he  made  no  sacrifice 
of  the  kind ;  "  for"  said  he,  "  a  man  is  contemptible  who  shows 
sorrow  for  the  death  of  a  wife,  when,  for  one  thus  lost,  an  hun- 
dred may  be  found  !"* 

The  convent  of  St.  Francis,  which  stands  on  the  banks  of 
the  Rimac,  is  amongst  the  oldest,  and  is  the  largest  in  Lima. 
Its  buildings,  church,  and  cloisters,  cover  two  squares  of  ground. 
It  has  its  gardens  and  fountains ;  its  statues  and  paintings.  The 
church  is  next  in  size  to  the  cathedral,  and  at  one  time  was  the 
richest  in  Peru.  Its  interior  is  divided  by  three  naves,  tra- 
versed by  two  aisles,  forming  a  double  cross.  It  contains  many 
chapels,  shrines,  and  altars,  which  are  gorgeously  decorated 
with  gold,  silver,  ebony,  marble,  precious  stones,  velvet,  and 
damask,  disposed  in  good  taste.  On  the  great  altar,  in  a  silver 
sagrario,  are  deposited  the  reliques  of  San  Francisco  Solano, 

*  Mercurio  Peruano.  torn.  2.  1791. 


240  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

(who  was  canonized  in  172G,)  where  they  rest  "embalmed  in 
the  aroma  of  his  own  virtues."*  The  splendor  of  this  church 
impresses  the  beholder  with  a  religious  awe;  when  lighted 
with  its  thousand  candles,  and  the  deep  toned  organs  fill  its 
arches  with  their  mellow  sounds,  it  is  eminently  calculated  to 
impose  upon  the  vulgar,  and  inspire  that  devotion,  which  I 
fear  has  been  long  an  obstacle  to  the  advancement  of  rational 
liberty  in  Spanish  America. 

The  convent  of  Our  Lady  of  Mercy  is  less  extensive,  less 
magnificent,  and  in  a  state  of  greater  ruin,  from  having  suffer- 
ed more  during  the  revolution. 

The  convent  of  San  Pedro  is  in  better  keeping,  but  was  never 
as  rich  as  those  already  mentioned.  In  one  of  its  apartments 
is  a  large  but  coarse  picture  of  purgatory  and  hell,  in  which  all 
the  torments  of  the  damned  are  most  grotesquely  represented. 
In  one  part  of  it,  a  young  devil  sits  astride  the  shoulders  of  a 
mortal  victim,  and  confronting  him,  tearing  out  his  tongue  ; 
in  another,  a  red  hot  bolt  of  iron  is  driven  longitudinally  through 
the  head  and  body  with  a  huge  sledge  hammer,  slung  by  a 
hideous  demon  ;  here  is  the  death-bed  of  a  Christian,  surround- 
ed by  angels  ;  there,  that  of  a  sinner,  attended  by  fiends ;  again, 
the  course  of  Christian  life  allegorized  in  a  procession  of  reli- 
gious of  both  sexes,  contrasted  by  a  mixed  company  of  musi- 
cians, lawyers,  and  bacchanalians,  dancing  merrily  to  "  the 
burning  gulf."  All  of  which  is  piously  intended  to  strike  ter- 
ror into  the  hearts  of  the  ignorant  and  wicked,  and  thus  frighten 
them  into  the  love  of  the  beneficent  Almighty  ! 

In  a  large  hall  of  this  convent  is  placed  the  public  Library, 
consisting  of  eleven  thousand  volumes,  arranged  in  chapters. 
That  of  the  History  of  America  is  a  valuable  collection,  both 
of  ancient  and  modern  authors.  The  collection  of  Bibles  is 
large,  and  that  of  the  Holy  Fathers  extensive  and  curious. 
The  Library  was  instituted  on  the  21st  August  1S21,  by  San 
Martin,  who  gave  a  number  of  valuable  works  ;  but  the  great 
mass  was  derived  from  the  convents  of  the  city,  by  his  order. 
A  reading  room  is  attached  to  the  library,  furnished  with  mar- 

•  Sol  y  Ano  Fcliz  del  Peru.   1735. 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  241 

ble  tables,  chairs,  maps,  charts,  &c.  No  person  is  allowed  to 
read  in  the  library,  nor  is  any  one  permitted  to  carry  books  to 
his  own  dwelling.  The  librarian  attends  on  all  working  days, 
from  nine  o'clock  A.  M.  to  two  P.  M.,  and  from  four  P.  M. 
till  sunset.  In  these  intervals,  many  resort  there  to  read  the 
daily  gazettes,  and  the  periodicals  of  the  country. 

This  institution,  which  is  under  the  supervision  of  the  Minis- 
ter of  State,  is  kept  in  better  order,  and  is  more  creditable  to 
its  officers  and  the  government,  than  any  other  in  Peru. 

The  Convent  of  Monserat,  in  the  western  part  of  the  city, 
is  small  and  in  a  state  of  ruin.  I  visited  it  on  a  Sunday  morn- 
ing, and  found  the  only  friar  now  attached  to  it,  busily  at  work, 
stacking  grass  for  his  horses,  assisted  by  a  negro  boy. 

Of  the  nunneries,  several  in  number,  I  can  say  nothing,  be- 
cause men  are  not  permitted  to  enter  them.  Females,  however, 
are  not  permitted  to  visit  the  cloisters  of  any  convent,  without 
special  permission  from  a  prelate,  unless  they  be  enceintes/ 

Besides  the  many  convents  and  monasteries,  Lima  contains 
fifty-seven  churches,  and  twenty-five  chapels  belonging  to  hos- 
pitals, colleges,  &c.  With  the  exception  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  there 
is  a  more  continuous  ringing  and  chiming  of  bells  in  this,  than 
in  any  other  city  I  have  ever  visited.  The  clocks  strike  the 
quarters,  and  no  two  in  the  city  agree  in  time,  so  that  one  or 
another  is  striking  every  five  minutes.  Then  the  church,  con- 
vent, and  monastery  bells,  are  tolled  almost  every  hour  for 
some  ceremony,  and  at  midnight  they  summon,  with  iron 
tongue,  the  nuns  and  friars  to  their  vigils.  Again,  bells  are 
tolled  after  earthquakes,  and  rung  merrily  on  the  receiving  of 
joyful  news.  Habit  could  not  accustom  the  inhabitants  to  their 
clamorous  din.  Therefore,  decrees  have  been  issued  at  different 
times,  to  regulate  the  length  of  time  which  bells  might  be  rung 
on  the  occasion  of  funerals,  religious  ceremonies,  and  general 
or  partial  rejoicings.  Nevertheless,  they  soon  became  as  great 
an  annoyance  as  ever. 

From  the  number  of  churches  and  chapels  in  Lima,  it  was 

a  common  saying,  many  years  ago,  that  "  Peru  and  its  capital, 

'The  City  of  Kings,'  would  send  more  souls  and  saints  to 

Heaven,  than  the  mines  would  yield  dollars  to  the  world !"  Yet 

31 


242  THREE  TEAKS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

it  does  not  follow,  for  1  have  seen  it  remarked,  that  priests 
bear  about  the  same  relation  to  religion  that  lawyers  do  to  law  ; 
which  I  think  is  illustrated  in  this  city.  I  fear,  as  has  been 
said  of  the  "  Niobe  of  Nations,"  it  contains  "  too  many  priests 
to  leave  any  room  for  religion. "  Although  the  whole  popula- 
tion may  be  looked  upon  as  formal  Catholics,  very  few  of 
them  are  strictly  or  really  devout.  Their  notions  of  religion 
are  confined  to  the  church  ceremonies  and  the  confessional. 
Nevertheless,  that  there  are  very  many  pious  and  truly  Chris- 
tian people  in  Peru,  cannot  be  doubted  ;  this  may  be  inferred 
from  the  numerous  temples  of  public  worship,  and  the  charita- 
ble institutions  of  the  country. 

Amidst  the  civil  wars  which  distracted  Peru  in  the  years 
following  the  death  of  Pizarro,  commenced  the  exercise  of 
Christian  charity,  which  rejoices  in  relieving  the  sufferings  of 
the  destitute.  Several  of  the  institutions  founded  at  that  time 
still  remain,  and  form  an  interesting,  if  not  a  very  striking 
contrast  with  the  prevalent  licentiousness  of  the  age. 

About  the  year  1597,  Luis  Pecador,  more  pious  and  phi- 
lanthropic than  his  name  suggests,  began  collecting  alms  for 
the  purpose  of  instituting  a  Foundling  Hospital.  In  1603, 
the  proper  licenses  being  obtained,  he  commenced  receiving 
the  little  unfortunates,  (the  sins  of  their  fathers  being  visited 
upon  them,)  on  a  dumb  wheel,  fixed  in  the  wall  of  the  house 
destined  for  their  reception.  Colored  children  were  educated 
as  servants,  and  were  placed,  when  eighteen  years  of  age,  with 
eligible  masters.  In  16  IS,  the  number  of  foundlings  main- 
tained was  so  great,  that  seventy  nurses  were  employed  ; 
though  the  population  was  not  more  than  half  of  what  it  is  in 
the  present  day,  furtive  births  were  more  numerous.  In  1791, 
this  "Casa  de  Huerfanos"  employed  one  hundred  and  five 
nurses! 

The  "Colegio  de  Santa  Cruz  de  las  Ninas  Expositas,"  was 
founded  in  1659.  It  was  destined  for  the  reception  of  all 
Spanish  white  female  children,  whom  their  parents  cruelly 
abandon,  to  hide  their  own  shame,  and  those  who  are  desti- 
tute through  the  indigence  of  their  fathers.  They  are  re- 
ceived from  the  tenderest  infancy,  nursed,  clothed,  educated, 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  243 

and  maintained,  until  they  become  capable  of  gaining  their 
own  subsistence,  or  are  married.  It  was  originally  endowed 
with  a  capital  of  $341,626,  with  some  real  estate,  which 
yielded,  in  1791,  14,932  dollars  annually. 

The  "  Casa  de  Amparadas,"  or  House  of  Refuge,  was 
founded  by  the  Viceroy,  Conde  de  Lemos,  in  1670.  It  re- 
ceived indigent  females  who  were  without  homes,  and  an 
apartment  was  destined  for  the  reception  of  those  whose 
honor  and  hopes  had  been  blighted  by  the  libertines  of  the 
capital ;  here  they  were  provided  for,  and  every  mild  means 
was  resorted  to,  for  the  regeneration  of  their  morals. 

Another  institution,  perhaps  more  beneficial  than  either  of 
the  others,  is  the  "Real  Monte  de  Piedad."  It  was  begun 
in  1777,  with  a  capital  of  23,000  dollars,  which  was  increased 
by  donations,  by  a  tax  on  the  lottery  of  12,000  dollars,  by 
another  on  the  cock-pit  of  400  dollars,  and  an  annual  benefit 
at  the  bull-bait.  Its  object  was  to  aid  the  poor,  and  in  case  of 
their  death,  to  purchase  masses  for  the  benefit  of  their  souls. 
In  1792,  the  directors  distributed  from  three  to  four  thousand 
dollars  monthly,  amongst  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred 
and  fifty  persons. 

Lima  contains  eleven  public  hospitals,  viz;  San  Andrez, 
for  lunatics;  Santa  Ana,  and  Santa  Maria  de  la  Caridad,  for 
women  only  ;  Espiritu  Santo,  for  mariners  ;  San  Bartolome, 
for  negroes  and  the  various  castes  of  both  sexes,  in  separate 
houses  ;  San  Juan  de  Dios;  San  Pedro;  Bethlemitas;  the  Re- 
fuge, for  the  incurables  of  both  sexes ;  San  Lazero,  for  lepers  of 
both  sexes ;  and  Las  Camilas,  for  women  under  every  circum- 
stance and  disease. 

All  these  hospitals  are  large,  and  offer  a  fine  field  to  the 
medical  student  for  acquiring  a  practical  knowledge  of  all 
forms  of  disease.  The  number  of  flesh  wounds,  inflicted  by 
knives  in  the  personal  rencontres,  so  frequently  taking  place 
amongst  the  lower  orders,  is  astonishingly  great.  Where 
Irishmen  of  a  similar  rank  resort  to  the  shillalah,  and  English- 
men and  Americans  to  the  fists,  Peruvians  fly  to  the  knife, 
and  end  the  broil  by  the  death  or  severe  wound  of  one  of  the 
party.     It  is  in  hospitals  and  charitable  institutions  of  large 


244  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

cities,  that  the  moral  character  of  the  plcheian  mass  may  he 
most  correctly  estimated,  for  the  reason  that  misery  and 
penury  surely  follow  quick  in  the  footsteps  of  vice. 

Notwithstanding  the  number  of  hospitals  and  charitable 
institutions  of  Lima,  there  is  no  city  where  more  alms  are 
bestowed  on  individual  mendicants  than  in  this.  There  is 
not  a  square  in  which  one  does  not  meet  squalid  wretches, 
maimed  or  blind,  crying  in  most  piteous  tones,  "Una  limos- 
nita,  por  el  amor  de  Dios" — "  Una  limosna  por  un  pobre  ciego 
que  quiere  pan,  por  el  amor  de  mi  Sefiora  Maria  Purisima" — 
"  Alms,  for  the  love  of  God — Alms  for  a  poor  blind  man  who 
wants  bread,  for  the  love  of  my  Lady  Mary  the  Most  Pure." 
Saturday  is  beggars'  day,  and  also  the  day  of  duns,  when 
merchants'  clerks  visit  debtors  to  solicit  payment.  The  doors 
of  the  rich  are  beset  for  charity,  but  they  only  give  to  a  cer- 
tain few  whom  they  patronize.  These  are  professional  mendi- 
cants. In  1832,  one  of  those  wretches  died  rather  than  give 
two  "reales"  for  medicine,  and  after  his  death  80,000  dollars  in 
hard  cash  were  found  under  his  bed  ! 

The  building  which  was  once  occupied  by  the  Inquisition,  is 
now  a  jail  for  common  felons.  The  cells  formerly  used  for 
confining  the  victims  of  inquisitorial  torments,  are  so  arranged 
that  no  two  doors  open  into  the  same  passage,  which  is  between 
them.  They  are  eight  feet  square  and  ten  or  twelve  high,  and 
without  light.  On  one  side  is  an  adobe  bench,  and  over  it  a 
daub  of  the  Virgin  and  a  Crucifix.  In  some  of  them  the  marks 
of  fire,  where  the  victims  were  toasted,  still  remain.  The  judg- 
ment halls,  with  their  secret  panels  and  machinery  for  moving 
the  head  and  eyes  of  the  image  of  our  Saviour,  are  now  the 
offices  of  the  jailors  and  military  guard  which  protect  it. 

The  Inquisition,  with  all  its  horrors,  was  established  at  Lima 
in  1509,  and  exercised  the  same  functions  as  in  Spain,  until  it 
was  destroyed  in  1S21  by  San  Martin. 

One  of  its  halls  is  occupied  by  the  public  museum,  which 
contains  several  Peruvian  mummies,  some  Indian  curiosities, 
and  a  valuable  collection  of  minerals.  The  whole  is  badly  ar- 
ranged and  extremely  dirty.     It  is  under  the  charge  of  a  sci- 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  245 

entific  Peruvian,  who  receives  from  the  government  an  annual 
salary  of  twelve  hundred  dollars. 

The  University  of  St.  Mark  was  founded  in  1571,  hy  Don 
Francisco  de  Toledo.  Ethics  and  scholastic  learning;  were  at- 
tended to  more  particularly,  in  the  early  years  of  this  institu- 
tion. From  a  necessity  of  a  knowledge  of  the  Quichua  and 
other  Indian  languages,  in  propagating  the  gospel  and  convert- 
ing the  aborigines,  a  professorslvp  of  those  languages  was  early 
established,  and  continued  till  1770,  when  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage took  their  place.  Though  medicine  was  taught,  the 
chair  of  anatomy  did  not  exist  until  1752,  when  it  was  founded 
by  the  late  Dr.  Unanue. 

The  professors  received  low  salaries,  which  were  derived 
from  donations  of  pious  institutions,  and  a  repartamiento  or 
division  of  Indians,  bestowed  upon  the  university  by  one  of 
the  viceroys.  In  the  present  day,  it  receives  the  proceeds  of 
one  bull-bait  yearly,  and  is  occasionally  assisted  by  congress.* 

The  medical  department  of  the  university  is  in  a  languishing 
state,  though,  from  being  attached  to  extensive  hospitals,  and 
no  prejudices  existing  against  dissections,  it  might,  in  other 
hands,  be  made  a  flourishing  school.  In  1826,  a  board  of 
trustees  was  appointed  for  the  examination  of  students  at  the 
end  of  each  course  of  lectures.  The  professorships  are,  one  of 
anatomy,  one  of  physiology,  one  of  pathology,  one  of  the  prac- 
tice of  medicine  and  clinical  practice,  one  of  therapeutics  and 
pharmacy,  and  one  of  surgery  and  obstetrics,  with  a  demon- 
strator in  the  anatomical  theatre.    Besides  these,  there  is  one 


*  The  revenues  of  the  college  of  medicine,  exclusive  of  students'  fees,  are 
as  follows : — 

From  the  treasury,  for  educating  fourteen  students  gratuitously, 
From  the  treasury,  .... 

Settled  revenue,  .... 

From  real  estate  belonging  to  the  college, 
From  the  order  of  Buenamuerte, 
From  the  convent  of  Santo  Domingo, 
The  proceeds  of  one  bull-bait,  estimated  at 


jitously, 

§2,100 

- 

3,000 

- 

530 

- 

500 

- 

600 

- 

1,394 

- 

1,300 

Total, 

$9,424 

24G  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

of  natural  history  aided  by  an  artist  or  painter,  and  a  professor 
of  mathematics  and  chemistry. 

The  students  generally  reside  within  the  walls  of  the  insti- 
tution. To  become  a  student,  the  candidate  must  have  attained 
fourteen  years  of  age,  and  pass  an  examination  in  Spanish  and 
Latin  grammar,  reading,  writing,  and  the  elements  of  mathe- 
matics. Out-students  pay  a  fee  of  five  dollars  monthly,  or  sixty 
dollars  a  year.  The  whole  course  occupies  four  years.  In 
1833,  it  contained  thirty-four  students. 

The  house  of  representatives  occupies  an  apartment  in  the 
university.  It  is  oblong,  and  lighted  from  a  dome  above. 
Commodious  galleries  surround  three  sides  of  the  hall,  for  the 
accommodation  of  spectators;  but  no  one  is  permitted  to  enter 
armed  with  a  sword,  or  even  a  cane.  A  sentinel  at  the  door 
prevents  any  one  from  entering  who  refuses  to  deposite  his 
weapons  with  him.  The  speaker's  chair  is  at  one  end,  beneath 
a  dosel  or  canopy,  and  in  the  centre  stands  a  table  with  a  cru- 
cifix upon  it.  The  members  occupy  fixed  chairs,  arranged  in 
two  rows  along  each  wall,  and  are  not  afforded  the  means  of 
writing  at  their  seats.  They  sometimes  rise  and  speak  from 
their  places,  but  when  about  arguing  a  question  at  length,  as- 
cend one  of  the  tribunes,  premising,  "  Senores,  pido  la  pala- 
bra" — "  Gentlemen,  I  ask  leave  of  speech."  The  best  orators 
are  amongst  the  clergy — one  named  Vigil,  whom  I  heard  speak 
against  Gamarra  the  president,  was  eloquent  and  bold.  It  is 
said,  that  he  has  drawn  tears  from  the  whole  house. 

Around  an  inner  patio,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  corridor, 
and  into  which  several  committee  rooms  open,  are  painted  on 
the  wall,  symbolic  representations  of  the  several  arts  and  sci- 
ences, each  with  an  appropriate  motto  from  the  Latin  poets. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  247 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


The  Cathedral — The  Sagrario — Oraci6n — The  B6veda — Death  of  Pizarro — 
His  interment. 


Without  any  claims  to  the  character  of  a  very  pious  man, 
I  was  led  into  the  cathedral  on  the  first  morning  after  my  ar- 
rival. The  magnificence  and  splendor  of  the  interior — the 
interest  shed  over  it  by  being  founded  by  the  conqueror,  Pi- 
zarro, and  its  now  being  the  resting  place  of  his  bones,  caused 
me  to  repeat  my  visits  again  and  again.  How  little  did  the 
Marques  think,  when  he  placed  the  corner  stone  of  this  edi- 
fice, that  it  was  the  foundation  of  his  own  mausoleum  ! 

In  order  to  have  an  opportunity  of  examining  the  building 
at  leisure,  and  in  intervals  when  no  ceremonies  were  perform- 
ing, I  made  acquaintance  with  the  sexton,  who  is  a  tall,  ema- 
ciated old  man,  with  sharp  features,  and  a  pair  of  cunning 
black  eyes.  He  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  church,  man 
and  boy,  for  forty  years.  I  found  him  always  obliging,  and  full 
of  stories  of  by-gone  days.  From  habit,  he  spoke  in  a  subdued 
tone  ;  and  during  service,  was  seen  moving  about  with  noise- 
less step,  discharging  the  various  duties  of  his  office.  A  few 
"reales"  softened  his  solemn  visage  into  a  pleasant  smile,  and 
made  him  always  punctual  in  his  appointments. 

The  cathedral  is  divided  into  three  naves.  A  long  row  of 
chapels,  closed  by  large  doors  of  turned  wooden  bars,  between 
which  the  whole  interior  may  be  seen,  occupy  one  side  of  each 
of  the  lateral  aisles.  They  are  paved  with  large  earthen  tiles, 
laid  down  in  diamond  form,  and  are  perfectly  clear,  extending 
from  the  front  to  the  rear  of  the  building,  exceeding  three 
hundred  feet ;  the  ceiling  being  very  lofty,  and  ornamented 
with  architraves,  arches,  and  mouldings,  makes  the  great  length 
appear  greater  than  it  is.  The  centre  nave  is  broader  than  the 
others,  but  not  so  long ;  its  floor  is  raised  three  steps.    At  one 


248  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

end  of  it  is  the  choir,  and  at  the  other  the  "  Altar  Mayor,"  or 
great  altar. 

The  choir,  which  may  be  compared  to  a  splendid  labyrinth, 
contains  a  hundred  cedar  chairs.  The  back  of  each  one  presents 
the  half  figure  of  a  saint,  beautifully  carved  ;  and  the  spaces 
and  panels  between  them  are  ornamented  with  angels,  saints, 
animals,  birds,  and  flowers,  in  relief,  executed  in  the  best 
style.  The  fdcistol,  or  chorister's  desk,  which  stands  in  front, 
corresponds  with  the  rest.  The  sculpture  of  this  spot  cost 
30,000  dollars!*  Besides  two  immense  organs  of  surpassing 
melody,  not  exceeded,  it  is  said,  by  any  in  Spain,  on  certain 
occasions  there  is  an  accompaniment  of  violins,  violoncellos, 
harps,  and  wind  instruments. 

Between  the  great  altar  and  the  choir,  is  the  pulpit,  splen- 
didly carved  and  gilded,  the  cost  of  which  exceeded  twelve 
thousand  dollars  ! 

The  Altar  Mayor  is  a  magnificent  structure,  twenty-two  feet 
wide  and  forty-five  in  height.  The  base  is  three  feet  high. 
Upon  it  is  the  altar  table,  covered  with  fine  cambric,  trimmed 
with  Mechlin  lace.  At  each  corner  of  this  basement  stands  an 
angel,  supporting  in  the  extended  hand  a  silver  lamp,  and  be- 
tween them  three  large  urns  ;  one  contains  some  relics  of 
Santa  Rosa;  a  second,  the  head  of  Santo  Toribio  ;  and  the  mid- 
dle one,  a  cross  of  gold  and  precious  stones. 

The  tabernacle  is  supported  by  twelve  columns  of  the  com- 
posite order,  ten  feet  high ;  those  in  front  are  of  sheet  silver, 
and  all  the  capitals,  cornices,  and  mouldings,  are  richly  gilt. 
Together,  they  form  a  sort  of  niche,  in  which  is  the  sagrario 
of  silver,  surmounted  by  a  figure  of  our  Saviour;  it  contains 
the  custodium  of  gold.  At  the  foot  of  the  sagrario,  is  engraved 
in  large  gold  letters, 

ECCE  EGO  VOBISCUM. 

In  the  lateral  angles  are  the  effigies  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist, 
and  Santa  Rosa,  the  Patroness  of  the  Americas  and  of  Lima, 
the  tutchiries  of  this  church. 

•  Vide  :  lainu  I'ostuma  del  Senor  Doctor  Don  Juan  Domingo  Gonzulc.  ^k 
la  Uc^ucia;  Dignisimu  XVI.  Aizobispo  tic  los  lieycs.    Luna,  MDCCCV. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  249 

On  the  cornice  of  this  first  story,  surrounded  by  a  Grecian 
varanda,  are  eight  columns,  which  rest  upon  the  pilasters  of 
the  sagraxio,  and  support  another  varanda  above;  thus  form- 
ing a  sort  of  throne,  for  a  beautiful  image  of  Our  Lady,  pre- 
sented by  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  Behind  it  is  the  apostle 
Santiago.  The  whole  is  canopied  with  crimson  velvet,  sup- 
ported by  angels,  and  ornamented  with  gold  lace.  Large  can- 
delabra, and  candlesticks,  are  tastefully  placed  in  different  parts 
of  the  altar,  which,  when  lighted,  forms  a  splendid  spectacle. 

Until  the  revolution  of  1821,  the  standard  of  Pizarro  was 
preserved  over  the  top  of  the  altar.  When  San  Martin  left 
Peru,  he  carried  it  with  him,  and  considered  it  his  proudest 
trophy. 

Notwithstanding  that  the  columns  and  pilasters,  which  sup- 
port the  vaulted  roof,  are  hung  with  crimson  velvet,  bordered 
with  gold  lace,  and  the  many  pieces  of  gold  and  silver  on  the 
altars,  the  church  is  now  poor,  compared  to  its  state  previous 
to  the  Independence.  Immense  quantities  of  plate  were  taken 
during  the  war,  first  by  San  Martin,  and  afterwards  by  Bolivar, 
under  the  name  of  loans  to  the  state.  One  pair  of  candlesticks, 
taken  from  the  great  altar,  weighed  1500  marks,  or  12,000 
ounces  of  silver ! 

Behind  the  Altar  Mayor,and  opening  into  the  communicating 
passage  between  the  lateral  naves,  is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St. 
Bartholomew,  in  which  is  the  kneeling  statue  of  Don  Bartolo- 
me  Lobo  Guerrero,  the  third  archbishop  of  Lima. 

In  front  of  the  choir,  being  the  anterior  end  of  the  middle 
nave,  and  fronting  the  plaza,  is  the  chapel  of  Nuestra  Senora 
de  la  Antigua.  The  altar  is  of  massive  silver,  and  above  it  is  a 
painting  of  Our  Lady,  holding  the  infant  Saviour  in  her  arms. 
On  the  left  of  the  altar  is  a  tablet  inserted  in  a  pilaster,  bearing 
the  following  inscription  ; 

"  N.  S.  P.  Clemente  XIV.  por  su  breve  de  11  de  Junio  de 
1771. 

"  Concede  a  todos  los  fieles  cristianos  que  verdaderamente 

contritos  visitdren  este  altar  de  N.  S.  de  la  Antigua  pidien- 

do  por  su  intencion,  por  la  exaltacion  de  la  Santa  Fe,  paz 

y  concordia  entre  los  Principes  Cristianos,  y  rezuren  la 

32 


JJ50  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Letania  dc  N.  S.  el  Rosario  y  otras  devotas  oraciones,  todas 
las  gracias,  Yndulgencias,  y  uiios  dc  perdon  que  generul- 
?nen/e  est  an  concedidos  pur  los  Sumos  Pontifices  sus  ante- 
cesores,  a  los  que  visitdren  los  allures  de  otrus  Santas  Yma- 
genes,  y  en  especiul  los  que  concedio  Sixto  V.  y  confirmo 
Benedicto  XIII.,  para  que  pueden  aplicarlas  por  modo  de  Su- 
fragio  tl  las  Benditus  Mmas  del  Purgatorio  todas  las  veces 
que  visitdren  este  Jiltur,  y  rezdren  lu  Letuniu,  el  Rosurio, 
o'  la  Sulve." 

"  Y  siendo  moralmente  imposible  espccificar  el  numero  de 
estas  Yndulgencias,  baste  decir  que  esta  concesion  es  de  las 
mus  amplias  conque  la  Yglesia  puede  franquearnos  sus  te- 
soros puru  ulibio  de  lus  Benditas  Mmas  del  Purgutorio." 

"  Our  Lord  the  Pope  Clement  XIV.,  by  his  breve  of  11th  of 
June  1771." 

''Concedes  to  all  faithful  Christians,  who,  truly  contrite, 
may  visit  this  altar  of  Our  Lady  of  Antigua,  asking  from  their 
hearts,  for  the  exaltation  of  the  Holy  Faith,  peace  and  concord 
between  Christian  Princes;  and  pray  the  Litany  of  Our  Lord, 
the  Rosary,  and  other  devout  prayers,  all  the  graces,  indul- 
gences, and  years  of  pardon,  which  are  generally  conceded  by 
the  High  Pontiffs,  his  predecessors,  to  those  who  may  visit  the 
altars  of  other  holy  images,  and  especially  those  conceded  by 
Sixtus  V.,  and  confirmed  by  Benedict  XIII.,  that  they  may 
apply  them  as  a  suffrage  to  the  blessed  souls  in  Purgatory,  as 
often  as  they  may  visit  this  altar,  and  pray  the  Litany,  the 
Rosary,  or  Sulve." 

"And  it  being  morally  impossible  to  specify  the  number  of 
these  indulgencies,  let  it  be  sufficient  to  say,  that  this  conces- 
sion is  of  the  most  ample  of  those,  by  which  the  church  can 
bestow  upon  us  its  treasures  for  the  relief  of  the  Blessed  Souls 
in  Purgatory !" 

The  chapels  on  the  sides  of  the  church,  are  eighteen  in  num- 
ber. The  first  on  the  left,  contains  a  piece  of- the  Sunetum 
Lignum  Crucis,  presented  at  the  solicitation  of  Ugarte,  the 
fifth  archbishop,  by  Pope  Urban  VII.  In  this  chapel  two  tnflH- 
es  are  chanted  yearly  ;  one  on  the  day  of  the  Holy  Trinity, 
and  the  other  on  that  of  San  Antonio  dc  Padua.    Besides,  there 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  251 

are  two  chaplains  maintained,  to  say  continual  masses  for  the 
rest  of  Archbishop  Ugarto's  soul ! 

Adjoining  the  door  leading  into  the  Sacristy,  is  the  chapel 
of  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Concepcion,  in  which  are  preserved 
memorials  of  Don  Feliciano  de  Vega,  archbishop  of  Mexico. 
In  it,  on  the  day  of  San  Feliciano,  a  mass  was  chanted,  and  a 
sermon  preached  in  the  church  ;  and  in  more  generous  times, 
two  maidens  were  married,  and  presented  with  a  dowry  of 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  each  ! 

Near,  is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  Santa  Polonia.  Her  shrine  is 
famous  for  the  cure  of  toothach.  A  single  candle  burned  upon 
her  altar,  accompanied  by  a  single  prayer,  and  the  pain  vanish- 
es!  In  spite  of  general  faith,  the  barbers  of  this  city  are  not 
deprived  of  much  practice  in  the  extraction  of  teeth,  by  the 
intervention  of  this  saint's  powers  !  For  this  information,  I  am 
indebted  to  some  of  the  boys  of  the  choir,  who  claimed  a  real, 
as  a  reward,  to  buy  sweetmeats ;  but,  finding  it  was  not  to  be 
had,  were  satisfied  with  some  cigars. 

There  is  one  chapel,  dedicated  to  La  Purisima  Concepcion 
de  la  Virgen,  which  was  the  burial  place  of  the  Oydores,  mi- 
nisters, and  officers  of  the  king. 

The  other  chapels  are  dedicated  to  the  patron  saints  of  Ca- 
balleros,  founded  and  decorated  by  them  with  jewelry  and  rich 
services  of  plate. 

In  one  of  these,  which  was  founded  by  the  brotherhood  for 
the  visitation  of  Our  Lady  to  Santa  Isabel,  a  feast  was  cele- 
brated to  obtain  the  favorable  interference  of  their  patroness, 
to  protect  Lima  from  the  ruinous  effects  of  earthquakes.  The 
cabildo  of  the  church  now  chant  grand  mass  every  Tuesday  for 
the  same  object,  and  at  which  great  numbers  of  people  attend. 

On  the  door  of  one  of  the  chapels,  is  a  notice  painted  on  a 
board,  that 

"The  Illustrious  Senor  Doctor  Don  Diego  del  Corro,  Arch- 
bishop of  Lima,  concedes  eighty  days  of  Indigencies  to  all 
persons  who  devoutly  pray  a  salve  before  Nuestra  Senora  de 
la  Candel&ria,  who  is  worshipped  in  this  chapel  of  the  Holy 
Martyrs,  Sr.  Crispin  and  Crispiniano." 
"Year,  1760." 


252  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

On  the  side  of  the  pilaster  next  its  entrance,  is  a  tin  box 
with  a  slit  in  the  top,  the  meaning  of  which  cannot  be  mis- 
taken, even  though  an  inscription  beneath  it  did  not  state, 
"  Here  is  received  the  alms  for  Nuestra  Senora  de  la  Cande- 
ldria,  who  is  worshipped  in  this  chapel  of  the  Holy  Martyrs, 
Sr.  Crispin  and  Crispiniano." 

At  the  sides  of  the  choir  are  four  quite  small  chapels,  very 
richly  furnished.  One,  which  is  dedicated  to  San  Pedro,  was 
richly  endowed,  and  received  many  indulgencies  from  the 
Apostolic  See.  A  chaplain  is  maintained  at  five  hundred  dol- 
lars yearly,  to  say  annually  one  hundred  and  fifty  masses,  and 
to  extract  a  soul  from  Purgatory  every  Monday  and  Friday 
throughout  the  year  !* 

The  sacristy  of  the  cathedral  is  ornamented  on  one  side  with 
cedar  panels  carved  in  relief,  representing  our  Saviour  and 
the  twelve  apostles.  Above  them  are  paintings  of  the  seasons, 
and  on  the  opposite  wall  hang  portraits  of  the  archbishops  and 
distinguished  officers  of  the  church.  This  apartment  is  fur- 
nished with  presses  and  wash  stands.  A  plentiful  supply  of 
brocades,  lamas  of  gold  and  silver,  cambrics,  laces,  and  altar 
paraphernalia,  are  contained  in  the  wardrobes  and  drawers  sur- 
rounding the  walls. 

From  the  sacristy  a  door  opens  into  a  large  room,  in  which 
all  the  temporal  affairs  of  the  church  are  transacted ;  it  is  the 
chapter. 

The  sagrdrio  is  a  small  parochial  church,  communicating 
with  the  cathedral,  under  the  administration  of  the  parish  in 
which  the  cathedral  is.  It  contains  several  chapels.  The  Altar 
Mayor  is  a  splendid  structure  of  statuary  and  painting,  so  nicely 
blended,  that  at  a  short  distance,  a  coup  (Pail  cannot  distin- 
guish them.  A  long  form  or  bench  stands  on  each  side  of  this 
church,  and  behind,  a  row  of  confessionals  or  boxes,  in  which 
the  priests  sit  and  listen  to  the  chronicles  of  sin.  A  tin  plate 
perforated  with  holes  is  placed  in  the  side,  in  a  convenient  po- 
sition for  the  ear  of  the  Father,  and  below  is  a  step  on  which 
the  person  confessing  kneels  while  he  whispers  the  history  of 

•  Kama  Postuma  del  Scnor  Iieguera. 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  253 

his  sins.  Neither  the  confessor  nor  the  confessed  see  each 
other.  The  females  are  completely  hidden  in  the  saya  y 
manto,  so  thai  the  priest  knows  not  whose  sins  are  filtered  into 
his  ear ! 

Before  the  front  door  of  the  sagrdrio  is  a  high  wooden  screen, 
which  hides  the  altar  and  interior  of  the  church  from  the 
plaza.  On  it  are  pasted  various  notices  and  placards,  an- 
nouncing certain  feasts,  indulgences,  and  necessary  penances, 
which  are  generally  addressed,  "To  the  faithful  in  Christ." 
Not  unfrequently  a  few  lines,  written  in  a  crabbed  hand,  ad- 
vise "  the  faithful"  that  Fray  (somebody)  is  deceased,  and  that 
masses  are  still  owing  for  the  benefit  of  his  soul,  and  for  which 
alms  are  required! 

From  daylight  until  about  eleven  o'clock,  there  is  a  constant 
succession  of  masses  said  in  the  several  chapels;  and  about 
nine  o'clock,  grand  mass  is  chanted  at  the  great  altars  of  the 
cathedral  and  sagrdrio.  About  ten  o'clock,  at  the  elevation  of 
the  host,  one  of  the  great  bells  is  struck  two  or  three  times, 
and  in  an  instant,  the  hum  of  business,  the  clatter  of  horses' 
feet,  the  cries  of  the  town,  cease — all  Lima  is  plunged  into  a 
most  dead  silence.  The  streets  present  groups  of  people  stand- 
ing with  their  hats  off;  horses,  mules,  and  donkeys  look  asto- 
nished that  their  labors  should  cease  for  an  instant;  all  who 
happen  to  be  in  the  plaza,  near  the  church,  kneel — all  Lima  is 
at  devotion,  and  heaven  seems  to  be  assailed  with  one  mighty 
torrent  of  aves  and  pater  7iosters.  This  state  of  things  lasts 
about  a  minute,  and  the  whole  is  again  set  in  motion  by  a 
merrier  striking  of  the  bell — conversation  and  business  are  re- 
sumed at  the  very  points  where  they  were  interrupted.  This 
is  the  morning  "  oracion."  At  sunset  it  is  repeated.  It  is  the 
most  solemn  and  impressive  custom  witnessed  in  Catholic 
countries. 

Every  morning,  ladies  in  saya  y  manto  are  seen  passing 
along  the  port&l  to  and  from  the  cathedral,  followed  by  little 
slaves  carrying  small  rugs.  In  the  church  they  are  kneel- 
ing, either  before  the  great  altar  or  some  of  the  chapels, 
with  their  slaves  behind  them.  The  beads  of  the  rosary  are 
counted  over;  and  they  then  return.     Old  and  young,  rich 


254  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE   PACIFIC. 

and  poor,  the  maimed  and  the  blind,  are  found  in  every  part 
of  this  great  building  during  every  morning. 

One  day  I  was  accompanied  to  this  church  by  an  American 
lady,  and  walked  through  it,  with  her  arm  drawn  through 
mine.  Presently  we  were  admonished  by  a  canonigo  that  we 
were  in  the  temple  of  God,  and  lhat  it  was  highly  indecorous 
for  the  lady  to  take  my  arm  !  The  canonigo  stood  with  his 
long  clerical  hat  under  his  arm,  and  inquired  whether  we 
were  American  or  English.  When  informed,  he  made  many 
inquiries  relative  to  our  country.  He  asked  how  many  Roman 
Catholic  churches  there  were  in  the  United  States,  and  whe- 
ther there  was  a  bishop  there.  lie  was  pretty  well  acquainted 
with  the  general  history  of  our  country  and  its  great  resources, 
and  eulogized  our  institutions,  but  argued  warmly  against  re- 
ligious toleration. 

I  have  yet  to  describe  a  very  interesting  part  of  the  cathe- 
dral. I  mean  the  Boveda  or  great  vault  beneath  the  Altar 
Mayor.  After  several  visits  and  conversations  with  priests 
and  the  worthy  sacristdn,  I  obtained  the  key  which  opens  the 
door.  After  the  sexton  had  pushed  back  the  bolt,  several 
strong  efforts  were  required  to  move  the  hinges,  stiffened  by 
long  want  of  use.  The  sexton,  with  a  long  candle  in  his  hand, 
preceded  me  down  a  short  flight  of  steps  into  a  sort  of  ante- 
chamber, in  which  were  several  supernumerary  saints,  sa- 
viours, pictures,  torches,  and  candlesticks,  strewed  about  in 
familiar  confusion.  I  followed  my  leader  through  a  low  arched 
passage,  into  a  room  about  twenty  feet  square,  and  fifteen  high. 
In  the  centre  of  the  floor  is  the  mouth  of  a  vault  or  well, 
covered  by  loose  boards,  upon  which  the  worthy  sexton  was 
unwilling  for  either  of  us  to  trust  our  weight.  Around  the 
walls  are  boxes  of  rough  planks,  extending  from  the  floor  to 
the  roof  or  ceiling,  arranged  one  above  the  other.  Some  of 
them  were  broken,  and  disclosed  to  view  those  dead,  who, 
when  living,  had  been  illustrious  in  church  and  state.  The 
sepulchral  vesture  was  black,  but  so  old  and  dry,  that  a  touch 
of  the  finger  turned  it  to  dust  !  The  skin  was  entire,  of  a 
sombre  parchment  hue,  and  so  hard,  that  when  tapped  with  a 
cane,  it  yielded  a  hollow,  empty  sound.     It  was  shrunk  close 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  255 

over  the  bones  of  the  face,  giving  sharpness  to  the  features  ; 
the  eyelids  were  closed  and  sunk  deep  into  the  sockets  ;  the 
hands  were  clasped  in  front  below  the  chest,  and  the  feet  were 
bare.  Yet  the  sight  was  not  awful.  I  thought  that  Methuse- 
lah, towards  the  close  of  his  nine  hundred  years  of  life,  might 
have  looked  thus  when  sleeping. 

While  gazing  on  one  of  these  withered  corses,  the  sacristdn, 
looking  closely  at  the  head,  said,  in  his  habitually  subdued 
tone,  "Este  debe  ser  Virrey,  porque  no  lleva  corona" — This 
must  be  a  vice-king,  because  he  does  not  wear  a  crown,  (a 
queer  reason,)  meaning  the  clerical  tonsure.  Could  this  be 
the  conqueror  Pizarro  !  It  was  not  the  body  of  a  churchman, 
as  the  sacristan  had  shrewdly  remarked,  yet  there  were  no 
inscriptions  on  any  of  the  boxes  fixed  to  the  wall.  Neverthe- 
less, it  is  certain  that  in  this  boveda  is  deposited  whatever 
remains  of  Pizarro's  body.  Whether  it  be  in  the  well  beneath, 
or  in  this  upper  vault,  I  could  not  discover. 

On  one  side  of  the  vault  lay  a  long  box,  with  a  piece  of 
parchment  nailed  on  one  end  of  it,  bearing  the  following  in- 
scription in  Roman  letters,  and  without  date. 

"  El  Sor.  Dr.  Santiago  de  Mendoza,  Dean  que  fue  de 
esta  Santa  Yglesia." 

"The  Senor  Dr.  Santiago  de  Mendoza,  who  was  Dean  of 
this  holy  church." 

There  are  three  other  boxes,  containing  the  bones  of  a  Dean 
and  two  Prebendaries  of  the  church,  as  we  are  informed  by 
the  inscriptions,  which  bear  date  172S,  1766,  and  1771.  These 
were  the  only  inscriptions  I  could  discover. 

When  we  ascended  into  the  church,  the  good  sexton,  through 
the  intervention  of  that  eloquent  mute,  whose  language  is  irre- 
sistible, and  whose  possessor  always  enjoys  the  respect  of  the 
world,  was  prevailed  upon  to  return  the  key  to  the  Ec&nomo,* 
without  locking  the  door.  Thus  I  secured  for  myself  access 
on  other  occasions. 

After  Pizarro  had  founded  the  "City  of  Kings,"  and  his 

*  The  officer  appointed  to  administer  the  fiscal  affairs  of  the  church,  and  to 
superintend  generally  all  its  property,  moveable  as  well  as  real. 


256  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE  PACIFIC. 

companion,  Almagro,  had  returned  from  an  unsuccessful  expe- 
dition to  Chile,  dissatisfaction  and  strife  arose  between  the  Pi- 
zarros  and  Almagros.  Civil  war  was  the  result,  and  a  bloody- 
battle  was  fought  at  Salinas,  and  another  on  the  river  Amancay. 
Almagro  was  taken  prisoner  in  Cuzco,  and  sentenced  to  death 
by  Fernando  Pizarro,  the  brother  of  the  marques,  on  the  charge 
of  having  concerted,  with  Manco  Inca,  plans  of  a  rebellious 
nature;  of  having  entered  Cuzco  under  arms;  and  of  having 
slain  several  Spaniards.  Almagro  entreated  to  be  allowed  to 
die  in  prison,  and  urged  his  petition,  by  reminding  his  unre- 
lenting judge,  that  he  had  never  shed  the  blood  of  one  of  Pi- 
zarro's  friends,  though  many  of  them  had  been  in  his  power; 
and  that  he  had  been  the  principal  instrument  in  elevating  the 
marques  to  the  pinnacle  of  earthly  glory  and  honor.  In  conclu- 
sion, he  said  ;  "Behold  me,  an  old,  emaciated,  gouty  man — let 
me  pass  in  prison  the  few  days  of  life  that  may  yet  remain, 
to  weep  for  you  and  for  my  sins !"  His  appeal,  Garcilaso  tells 
us,  "  would  have  moved  a  heart  of  steel ;  but  Fernando  Pizarro 
was  firm  to  his  purpose,  because  he  feared  the  vengeance  of 
Almagro,  if  he  escaped,  and  moreover,  he  had  received  instruc- 
tions from  the  marques." 

Almagro  was  hung  in  prison,  and  afterwards  publicly  be- 
headed in  the  plaza  at  Cuzco,  in  1538. 

Almagro  left  a  son  named  Don  Diego,  begotten  of  an  Indian 
woman.  With  a  number  of  his  friends,  he  was  sent  to  Lima, 
where  they  held  meetings,  and  brooded  over  their  sorrows, 
for  they  were  destitute  of  even  the  common  necessaries  of  life. 
They  felt  themselves  entitled  to  a  share  of  the  wealth  and 
splendor  which  Pizarro  was  enjoying,  because  they  had  shared 
in  the  dangers  and  toils  which  had  gained  them.  The  expedi- 
tion to  Chile  had  not  been  crowned  with  success.  Their  leader 
had  been  sacrificed.  They  awaited  impatiently  the  decision  of 
the  king,  on  charges  which  had  been  forwarded,  of  the  cruelty 
and  oppression  of  the  Pizarros.  They  heard  that  Yaca  de  Cas- 
tro, who  had  been  appointed  to  investigate  the  causes  of  their 
complaints,  had  arrived  at  Buenaventura,  on  his  way  to  Lima. 
It  was  said  that  Pizarro  had  sent  a  large  sum  of  money  to  Pa- 
nama, for  thu  purpose  of  suborning  this  judge  ;  and  in  the  event 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  257 

of  not  succeeding,  it  was  supposed  that  he  would  cause  his 
death,  rather  than  suffer  him  to  reach  the  city.  It  was  reported 
too,  that  Pizarro  intended  to  banish  young  Almagro  and  his 
associates.  All  these  things  wrought  upon  the  goaded  feelings 
of  "  those  of  Chile,"  as  Almagro's  party  was  contemptuously 
styled,  until,  seeing  no  prospect  of  redress  through  the  tedious 
process  of  Spanish  justice,  they  resolved  to  right  their  own 
wrongs. 

Seeing  the  state  of  poverty  in  which  the  companions  of  young 
Almagro  were  left,  from  their  property  having  been  confiscated 
by  Fernando  Pizarro,  the  marques  proffered  to  them  offices  of 
trust  and  emolument  under  his  government.  But  recollecting 
their  cruel  treatment  after  the  battle  of  Salinas,  and  cherishing 
the  hope  of  obtaining  justice  at  the  hands  of  Vaca  de  Castro, 
when  he  should  arrive,  they  scorned  the  offer,  preferring  to 
live  by  mutual  assistance,  and  sharing  the  table  of  young  Al- 
magro, who  inherited  a  part  of  his  father's  estates.  There  was 
one  mess  of  seven,  who  had  but  a  single  cloak  amongst  them, 
and  when  one  was  out,  the  rest  ivaited  at  home  for  his  re- 
turn. They  sallied  forth  each  in  turn,  and  maintained  them- 
selves by  gambling.  By  common  consent,  Juan  de  Rada  was 
both  treasurer  and  caterer. 

This  state  of  things  gave  birth  to  a  conspiracy  against  Pizar- 
ro's  life,  at  the  head  of  which  was  the  same  Juan  de  Rada,  who 
appears  to  have  been  a  man  of  cunning,  effrontery,  and  despe- 
rate courage.  Soon  after  the  organization  of  the  conspiracy, 
several  insults  were  offered  to  the  marques.  To  express  what 
the  conspirators  thought  to  be  merited  by  Pizarro,  Antonio 
de  Picado  his  secretary,  and  Doctor  Juan  Velasquez,  a  gallows 
was  hung  up  over  night,  before  each  of  their  doors.  The  mar- 
ques treated  this  insult  with  contempt,  and  remarked,  when 
advised  to  guard  against  attempts  at  his  life ;  "  Their  heads 
will  be  answerable  for  mine  !"  The  conspiracy  became  public, 
yet  Pizarro  walked  about  as  usual  without  a  guard,  and  even 
visited  his  mills,  which  were  beyond  the  city,  attended  only 
by  a  single  page. 

One  day,  Juan  de  Rada  visited  Pizarro,  and  found  him  in 
his  garden.  When  the  marques  asked  why  he  was  at  that  time 
33 


25S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

purchasing  arms,  the  conspirator  replied  ;  "  Is  it  so  strange  that 
we  should  provide  ourselves  with  cuirasses  and  coats  of  mail, 
when  your  highness  is  collecting  lances  to  slay  us  all?"  The 
marques  said,  the  lances  were  not  bought  to  be  used  against 
"  those  of  Chile,"  nor  had  they  any  thing  to  fear  ;  he  awaited 
anxiously  the  arrival  of  Vaca  de  Castro,  and  hoped  that  existing 
difficulties  might  be  adjusted.  When  about  to  depart,  Pizarro 
plucked  six  oranges  from  a  tree,  and  presented  them  to  him, 
which  was  at  that  time  deemed  a  high  compliment,  because 
oranges  had  been  but  recently  introduced  into  Peru. 

The  insults  of  the  Almagro  party  were  retorted  by  the 
friends  of  Pizarro.  Antonio  de  Picado,  his  secretary,  wore 
on  his  cap  a  gold  medal  with  a  fig  enamelled  upon  it,  bearing 
the  motto,  "Paralos  de  Chile" — For  those  of  Chile. 

St.  John's  day  was  fixed  on  by  the  conspirators  for  the  exe- 
cution of  their  plan,  but  Pizarro  became  suspicious,  and  ab- 
sented himself  from  the  church  celebration,  nor  did  he  attend 
mass  on  the  following  Sunday.  This  induced  many  of  his 
friends  and  officers  to  visit  him  on  that  day,  which  led  the  con- 
spirators to  suspect  that  measures  would  be  taken  to  frustrate 
their  designs. 

Pedro  de  San  Millan  went  directly  to  Juan  de  Rada,  and 
with  the  semblance  of  truth  told  him,  he  had  ascertained  be- 
yond a  doubt,  that  all  would  be  seized  and  put  to  death  in  less 
than  two  hours.  This  was  an  invention  of  San  Millan  to  hasten 
the  completion  of  the  bloody  design.  Juan  de  Rada  at  once 
joined  some  of  the  party,  and  made  them  an  address,  in  which 
he  said :  "  If  we  prove  ourselves  valiant,  and  succeed  in 
putting  the  tyrant  to  death,  as  we  have  determined,  we  shall 
not  only  avenge  the  Adelantado,  Almagro,  which  is  as  much 
desired  by  us  now,  as  if  his  death  had  happened  only  yester- 
day, but  we  shall  obtain  in  this  land,  the  rewards  to  which  our 
services  mostjustly  entitle  us.  And  unless  we  are  unanimous 
on  this  subject,  our  heads  will  soon  grace  the  pillory  in  the 
plaza ;  therefore,  let  every  one  of  us  look  well  to  the  matter !" 

The  conspirators  armed  themselves  on  the  spot,  sallied  into 
the  street,  and  joined  others  of  the  party  at  Almagro's  house. 
It  was  Sunday,  about  mid-day,  on  the  twenty-sixth  of  June 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  259 

1541.*  They  passed  through  the  streets,  shouting,  "viva  el 
rey — mueran  tiranos" — long  live  the  king — perish  tyrants — 
and,  says  Herrera,  "  though  the  streets  and  plaza  were  filled 
with  people,  no  one  offered  them  resistance."  They  entered 
from  the  plaza  into  the  first  patio,  where  they  met  three  ser- 
vants of  Pizarro,  one  of  whom  named  Hurtado  they  attacked 
and  severely  wounded.  This  patio  communicates  with  another 
on  its  western  side,  which  opens  into  the  palace  and  the  street 
on  which  is  at  present  the  principal  entrance.  From  it  a  long 
sala  or  hall,  about  twenty  feet  wide,  leads  towards  the  northern 
end  of  the  building.  On  entering  the  door  from  the  street,  a 
short  flight  of  steps,  each  one  being  as  long  as  the  breadth  of 
the  sala,  conducts  you  to  a  landing  some  thirty  feet  in  length. 
From  this,  there  is  another  flight  of  eight  or  ten  steps,  at  the 
top  of  which  is  the  door  of  the  hall.  Here  a  spot  is  generally 
pointed  out  to  travellers,  on  which,  it  is  said,  Pizarro  expired. 
When  the  conspirators  entered  the  first  court,  the  marques 
was  in  the  sala,  conversing  with  Diego  de  Vargas,  in  company 
with  nineteen  others,  whom  Herrera  names,  besides  several 
servants,  all  armed  with  their  swords  and  bucklers.  A  page, 
who  perceived  the  conspirators  cross  the  plaza  and  enter  the 
palace,  and  recognising  Juan  de  Rada  and  Martin  de  Bilbao, 
ran  in  great  consternation  to  the  apartments  of  Pizarro,  crying, 
tl  Al  arma,  al  arma,  que  todos  los  de  Chile  vienen  a  matar  al 
marques  mi  Senor!" — To  arms,  to  arms,  for  all  of  those  of 
Chile  are  coming  to  kill  my  lord,  the  marques.  At  this,  Pi- 
zarro and  those  with  him  descended  to  the  landing  on  the  stairs, 
to  inquire  into  the  cause  of  alarm.  At  that  instant  the  conspi- 
rators entered  the  second  patio,  shouting,  "  long  live  the  king, 


*  Robertson,  the  historian,  would  lead  us  to  believe  that  it  was  a  warm, 
sultry  day,  and  that  Pizarro  was  nearly  alone.  He  seems  to  have  overlooked 
the  fact  that  June  is  a  winter  month  in  Lima,  and  that  the  inhabitants  usually 
wear  cloaks  when  they  walk  the  streets.  Don  Juan  Nuix,  in  his  "  Reflexiones 
Imparciales,"  translated  fiom  the  Italian  by  D.  Pedro  Varela  y  Ulloa,  (Ma- 
drid, 1782),  charges  Dr.  Robertson  with  wilful  inaccuracy  on  many  points. 
"Robertson,  to  prove  the  cruelty  of  the  Spaniards  by  the  testimony  of  our 
own  writers,  alleges,  not  what  these  say,  but  what  he  thinks  they  ought  to 
have  said  about  the  conquests  of  Peru  and  Mexico." 


2G0  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

perish  tyrants."  Those  who  had  descended  the  stairs  returned 
to  the  sala,  and  in  one  way  or  another,  sneaked  off;  Doctor 
Juan  Velasquez  and  the  Inspector  jumped  through  a  window 
into  the  garden. 

The  marques  and  his  maternal  brother,  Francisco  Martinez 
de  Alcantara,  with  two  pages,  hastened  to  a  wardrobe  to  arm 
themselves.  Pizarro  divested  himself  of  a  long  robe  of  scarlet 
cloth,  and  hastily  armed  himself  with  a  coracina — an  ancient 
kind  of  cuirass — and  a  sword  or  spear,  it  is  doubtful  which, 
for  Herrera  says  the  one,  and  Garcilaso  the  other.  In  the 
mean  time,  Francisco  de  Chaves  and  four  others  remained  in 
the  sala. 

The  conspirators  mounted  the  stairs,  headed  by  Juan  de 
Rada,  who  exclaimed,  "  Happy  day!  Almagro  has  friends  to 
avenge  his  death."  The  door  was  closed.  Chaves  opened  it; 
though  he  had  been  ordered  to  keep  it  shut,  to  gain  time  for 
the  arrival  of  succor.  A  blow  nearly  severed  his  head  from 
his  body,  which  rolled  down  the  steps.  His  two  servants  were 
killed.  "Those  of  Chile"  rushed  into  the  sala,  crying,  "where 
is  the  tyrant,  where  is  the  tyrant?"  Martin  de  Bilbao  sought 
Pizarro's  chamber.  Juan  Ortiz  de  Zarate  struck  him  one  or 
two  blows  with  a  halbert,  and  received  a  severe  wound  in  re- 
turn. Francisco  de  Alcantara  defended  the  door  of  the  ante- 
chamber with  his  sword  and  buckler,  but  seeing  the  second 
door  lost,  he  retreated  to  the  marques's  chamber.  Now 
"  those  of  Chile"  cried,  "  Let  the  tyrant  die  ;  we  lose  time." 
The  conqueror  of  Peru,  though  past  sixty  years  of  age,  de- 
fended the  door  most  valiantly,  with  his  two  pages  fighting  by 
his  side.  For  some  time  the  conspirators  were  kept  at  bay. 
Finding  that  they  could  not  force  a  passage,  they  pushed  one 
Narvaez  with  great  force  upon  the  marques,  and  while  he  and 
the  two  pages  dealt  their  blows  upon  this  victim,  the  other 
conspirators  rushed  into  the  chamber  and  engaged  Pizarro  en 
masse.  He  wounded  several  of  them,  but  at  last,  receiving  a 
thrust  in  the  throat,  fell,  covered  with  wounds,  calling  upon 
Jesus  Christ ;  and  making  a  cross  upon  the  ground  with  his  lin- 
ger, kissed  it  and  expired  !  Juan  Rodrigues  de  Bonvgan  dashed 
upon  his  head  an  alcardz  of  water  with  so  much  force  as  to 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  261 

break  it,  and  thus  extinguished  the  feeble  life  gleam  that  yet 
remained ! 

Francisco  Martinez  de  Alcantara  and  the  two  pages  were 
killed,  and  the  rest  of  Pizarro's  friends  were  severely  wounded. 

The  conspirators  left  the  body,  and  sallied  through  the 
street  into  the  plaza,  crying,  "  Long  live  the  king,  the  tyrant 
is  dead."  They  then  returned  to  the  palace,  and  sacked  it  of 
about  a  hundred  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  valuables,  and 
were  about  to  cut  off  Pizarro's  head  and  place  it  on  the 
pillory,  "but,"  says  the  worthy  Fray  Calancha,  "the  wife  of 
Juan  de  Barberan  bought  it  with  her  tears !"  She  rolled  the 
body  in  a  coarse  sack  and  secured  it  with  a  rope.  A  slave 
carried  it  on  his  shoulders  through  a  secret  door  which  opened 
on  the  river,  and  around  the  back  of  the  palace,  to  the  church. 
As  the  marques  was  corpulent,  and  the  distance  more  than 
two  squares,  the  slave  was  compelled  by  fatigue  to  drag  the 
body  a  part  of  the  way  along  the  ground.  In  a  spot  where 
they  were  making  adobes  at  the  time,  he  put  it  into  a  hole 
and  covered  it  with  earth,  without  sound  of  bell  or  ecclesi- 
astic ceremony ! 

Afterwards  the  obsequies  were  hastily  celebrated,  only  by 
Pedro  Lopez,  Juan  de  Barberan  and  his  wife.  Time  was  not 
allowed  them  to  array  the  corpse  in  the  style  which  they 
deemed  befitting  its  rank.  Not  a  dollar  was  left  in  the  palace, 
and  they  asked  alms  to  defray  the  expenses  of  the  funeral  !* 

"  For  several  years,"  says  Calancha,  "I  saw  the  bones  of 
the  marques  in  a  small  box,  deposited  in  the  sacristy  of  the 
Iglesia  mayor — principal  church  at  Lima,  until  it  should  be 
finished.  And  they  remained  there  several  years  afterwards, 
because  the  place  of  their  sepulture  had  not  been  determined. 
At  last  the  king,  in  a  royal  cedula,  ordered  his  body  to  be 
placed,  together  with  that  of  the  Viceroy  Don  Antonio  de 
Mendoza,  in  a  vault  near  the  Altar  Mayor." 

*  Herrera,  Gomara,  Zarate,  Garcilaso,  &c. 


262  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Morning  visits — A  family — Conversation — Difficult  for  foreigners  to  enter 
society — Female  education — Ignorance  of  Geography — Provincialisms — A 
tertiilia — Monte  al  dao — Use  of  Tobacco — Morale  of  Lima  society — Habits 
of  the  ladies — A  good  trait  in  the  Lima  character — Gambling. 


Sundays  and  feast  days  are  appointed  for  visiting.  The 
officers  of  the  government,  civil  and  military,  make  calls  on 
the  President,  and  on  their  friends. 

It  is  the  fashion  to  make  morning  visits  only  on  holy-days. 
Calesas  are  rolling  through  the  streets  in  every  direction. 
These  vehicles  present  a  grotesque  appearance  at  first;  the 
wheels  are  so  large,  the  mules  comparatively  so  small,  and 
the  caleseros  have  such  quaint  liveries.  The  ladies  do  not 
wear  the  saya  y  manto  when  riding,  but  ornament  the  hair 
with  dahlias  and  jasmine  flowers,  and  dress  in  gay  silks  taste- 
fully trimmed.  Though  so  many  colors  are  assembled  to- 
gether, they  are  harmonized  with  much  taste.  White  silk 
stockings  and  satin  shoes,  of  every  color  except  black,  which 
stamp  a  woman  as  poor,  or  of  the  second  class,  adorn  the 
feet.  The  extravagance  of  the  ladies  in  these  articles,  is 
great,  though  comparatively  trifling  now  ;  thirty  years  ago, 
silk  stockings  were  sold  at  from  twenty  to  forty  dollars  the 
pair,  and  then  it  was  a  matter  of  reproach  to  wear  them  after 
they  had  been  washed  !  So  soon  as  their  lustre  was  gone, 
they  were  thrown  aside.  It  is  an  invariable  rule  with  all 
classes,  and  has  been  from  time  almost  immemorial,  to  pur- 
chase new  shoes  every  Saturday.  Cotton  stockings  are  rarely 
seen,  not  even  in  dishabille.  Silk  shawls  are  carelessly  worn 
half  off  the  shoulders,  and  the  hands  are  employed  with  a 
small  fan,  which  is  scientifically  fluttered  and  cracked  every 
few  minutes. 

On  Sundays  I  usually  visited  a  family  considered  of  liaut 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  263 

ton.  The  female  part  consisted  of  the  mother  Dona  Panchita 
and  three  marriageable  daughters.  Their  house  is  large. 
The  sala  occupies  the  back  of  the  terraplan,  and  is  furnished 
with  chairs,  a  rough  table,  and  two  long  leather  backed  sofas. 
A  large  glass  lantern  hangs  from  the  centre  of  the  ceiling. 
This  apartment  is  a  common  lounge  for  servants.  To  the  left 
is  a  sitting  room,  the  walls  of  which  are  covered  with  crimson 
damask  hangings,  supported  by  gilt  cornices,  and  furnished 
with  tables,  a  pair  of  sofas,  and  chairs.  Here  the  family  gen- 
erally sit  when  visited  by  familiar  friends.  A  large  glass 
door  with  gilded  sash  opens  from  the  sala  into  the  cuadra  or 
parlor,  which  is  perhaps  forty  by  thirty  feet,  and  the  ceiling 
is  twenty  feet  high.  Like  the  sitting  room,  the  walls  are 
tapestried  with  crimson  damask,  secured  by  gilt  cornices 
and  moulded  surbases.  The  windows  are  near  the  ceiling, 
and  closed  by  rough  inside  shutters,  which  are  managed  by 
silk  cords  terminated  by  tassels  hanging  into  the  room.  A 
Brussels  carpet,  with  a  large  figure  and  of  gay  colors,  covers 
the  floor.  On  the  right  are  two  white  damask  sofas,  made 
of  light  wood.  The  chairs  correspond.  Several  small  card 
tables,  chairs,  and  four  large  mirrors,  are  placed  along  the 
walls.  At  convenient  distances  are  silver  and  beautiful  China 
spitoons  alternating  with  each  other.  A  centre  table  with 
marble  top  completes  the  furniture.  Through  a  glass  parti- 
tion with  gilt  sash,  at  the  end  of  the  room  opposite  to  the 
sofas,  is  seen  a  dormitory,  which  is  the  pride  of  the  family. 
A  high,  tented  canopy  of  blue  silk  with  gold  fringe,  and  cur- 
tains of  the  same  looped  up  to  the  posts,  overhang  a  capa- 
cious bed,  the  counterpane  of  which  is  of  yellow  satin,  cover- 
ed with  flowers,  embroidered  in  the  appropriate  colors.  The 
pillow  cases  are  of  fine,  tambored  cambric  over  pink  satin. 
Ml  the  utensils  in  this  magnificent  chamber  are  of  solid  silver  ! 
Beds  which  cost  a  thousand  dollars  are  by  no  means  uncom- 
mon now,  and  before  the  revolution,  two  thousand  were  often 
expended  on  this  piece  of  furniture ! 

In  the  first  apartment  I  have  attempted  to  describe,  attired 
in  gay  silks  and  lace,  their  necks  and  fingers  sparkling  with 
brilliants,  sit  the  mother  and  her  daughters,  entertaining  a  half 


264  THREE  YEARS  IN  TIIE   PACIFIC. 

dozen  female  visiters.  Such  a  flirting  of  fans,  (the  Spectator 
could  not  have  instructed  his  pupils  better  in  this  art) — such  a 
mutual  scrutiny  of  dress — such  adjusting  of  shawls,  is  not  easily 
described.  One  thrusts  forward  the  point  of  her  foot — and  they 
have  pretty  feet — and  another  looks  over  her  shoulder.  Every 
thing  is  formal  and  cold;  I  have  never  seen  such  heartless  re- 
ceptions given  to  friends  in  any  other  place,  but  this  gradually 
wears  off  in  a  few  minutes;  the  conversation  then  becomes 
sprightly  and  gay,  sprinkled  with  flashes  of  wit  and  humor. 
The  usual  subjects  discussed,  are  the  theatre,  bull-bait,  or  Ala- 
meda, with  a  sufficient  dash  of  personal  scandal  and  gossip,  to 
render  it  piquant.  The  history  of  some  friend's  accouchement, 
with  all  the  details,  is  a  prolific  theme,  particularly  if  it  happen 
to  be  a  little  out  of  the  common  order,  for  then  all  the  miracu- 
lous cases  are  brought  to  mind,  and  related  by  the  elder  ladies. 
In  these  discussions,  the  youngest  children  take  part,  and  speak 
quite  knowingly  of  things,  which  in  our  country  are  hidden 
arcana,  only  revealed  to  the  initiated.  That  squeamishness 
complained  of  by  a  late  notorious  traveller  in  the  United  States, 
is  unknown;  the  portrait  drawn  of  Miss  Clarissa  and  Mr.  Smith, 
could  have  no  original  in  Lima.  Whatever  is  found  in  nature, 
or  nature's  functions,  is  not  an  improper  topic  for  a  lady's  ear, 
if  discreetly  managed.  If  any  thing  be  said  which  oversteps 
the  bounds  of  delicacy,  a  lady  generally  exclaims,  "  Gua  !  que 
lisiira !"  but  does  not  blush,  nor  veil  her  face  with  her  fan.  In- 
deed, indelicate  allusions  give  a  piquancy  to  conversation  which 
is  agreeable  to  many.  Another  all  absorbing  subject  is  health. 
It  is  doleful  to  listen  to  the  croakings  of  the  old  women,  when 
they  chronicle  their  aches  and  pains,  or  recommend  to  their 
friends  some  quack  remedy,  which  has  produced  miraculous 
effects  in  their  own  cases.  As  self-interest  is  sometimes  touched, 
the  losings  and  winnings  of  friends  at  gaming  tables,  are  heard 
of  with  delighted  admiration.  Literature  is  out  of  the  question  ; 
books  were  only  intended  to  supply  the  place  of  conversation. 
I  have  seldom  heard  a  Peruvian  lady  say  she  had  read  any 
book  whatever.  I  knew  a  gentleman  who  loaned  a  lady  a  trans- 
lation of  Ivanhoe,  and  asked  her,  at  the  end  of  three  months, 
how  she  liked  it.    She  replied;  "  I  have  not  yet  opened  it — 1 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  265 

was  reserving  it.  for  the  long  winter  nights,  when  we  have  no 
tertulia !" 

The  visit  ended,  the  ladies  embrace  in  the  most  cordial  man- 
ner, and  gently  chide  their  visiters  for  staying  away  so  long; 
but  they  never  return  a  visit  in  less  than  two  weeks,  and  sel- 
dom in  less  than  a  month.  Foreigners  require  a  long  time  to 
become  acquainted  in  Lima  society  ;  the  Limanians  are  jealous 
and  suspicious,  and  entertain  strong  prejudices  against  them, 
which  have  their  origin  in  jealousies  existing  between  the  Spa- 
niards and  Creoles  from  the  earliest  period — jealousies  that  led 
to  family  quarrels  and  general  dissensions.*  The  old  ladies  are 
wont  to  say,  that  previous  to  the  revolution,  they  did  not  see 
young  ladies  take  gentlemen's  arms  at  night,  when  walking 
from  the  theatre — and  indeed  they  expect,  the  time  will  come 
when  girls  will  do  so  even  in  broad  day  light !  Ladies  in  Lima 
think  it  highly  indecorous  to  be  seen  walking  the  streets  in 
saya  y  manto,  attended  by  gentlemen.  Not  being  aware  of  this 
fact,  a  late  traveller  has  east  a  severe  slur  on  the  character  of 
several  females,  whom  he  saw  in  the  Alameda  de  la  Port&da, 
which,  I  am  sure,  was  inadvertently  done  on  his  part. 

It  may  be  inferred  from  what  I  have  said  of  a  morning  call, 
that  the  education  of  the  Lima  ladies  is  very  limited.  At 
school  they  learn  to  read  indifferently  well;  to  write  worse; 
to  embroider  with  floss  silk;  to  use  the  needle;  and  to  their 
credit  be  it  spoken,  they  generally  make  their  own  dresses, 
and  not  unfrequently  their  own  shoes  !  Mantua  makers,  how- 
ever, are  few,  and  until  within  a  very  few  years,  were  entirely 
unknown.  They  acquire  a  slight  knowledge  of  music,  and  play 
the  piano  and  guitar  passably  well.  Since  the  revolution,  some 
few  have  studied  French.  Dancing  is  an  hereditary  accomplish- 
ment, passed  down  from  generation  to  generation.  I  have  never 
heard  of  such  a  being  as  a  dancing  master  in  the  city,  yet  all 
are  graceful  in  the  waltz  and  contradance.  The  beneficial  ef- 
fects of  certain  public  amusements  upon  society,  have  been 
lately  shown  in  Lima.  The  Italian  Opera  Company,  which 
left  there  in  1832,  diffused  an  almost  universal  taste  for  Italian 

*  See  Noticias  Secretas  de  America.  Londres.  1826. 
34 


266  THKEE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

music;  and  now  every  young  lady  of  fashion  sings  and  plays 
the  best  pieces  of  Rossini  and  Paccini ;  and  many  have  learned 
to  read  Italian. 

The  Limanians  are  most  wofully  ignorant  of  geography  and 
history.  I  have  been  frequently  asked,  "  in  what  part  of  Phi- 
ladelphia is  London  ?"  "  Even  some,"  says  a  Spanish  traveller 
in  1826,  "who  are  reputed  to  be  learned  and  wise,  believe 
that  England  is  a  cit)T,  and  the  capital  of  a  country  called  Lon- 
don !"* 

I  was  acquainted  with  a  beautiful  woman,  of  about  twenty 
years  of  age,  who  moved  in  the  second  rank,  but  had  been  re- 
duced from  the  first  by  the  reverses  of  her  family.  She  was 
remarkable  for  natural  intelligence,  the  easy  flow  of  her  con- 
versation, and  the  purity  of  her  language.  One  evening,  when 
the  conversation  turned  on  geography,  she  remarked;  "you 
seem  to  know  every  thing — do  tell  whether  it  is  true  that  the 
world  turns  round  every  day  !" 

"Most  assuredly." 

"How  wonderful!"  she  exclaimed,  "and  what  a  miracle 
that  we  are  not  sensible  of  it !" 

I  then  asked  her  whether  she  knew  that  the  world  is  round, 
and  whether  she  was  aware  that  vessels  sail  around  it.  She  re- 
plied ;  "  I  believe  that  to  be  a  fact,  but  I  do  not  see  any  thing 
so  very  astonishing  in  a  voyage  of  circumnavigation,  for  I  am 
informed  that  the  world  is  in  the  middle  of  the  sea!" 

I  endeavored  to  explain  to  her  the  solar  system,  at  which 
she  expressed  great  admiration.  After  talking  an  hour,  and 
illustrating  the  form  of  the  earth  with  an  orange,  she  sighed, 
and  said,  "puede  ser  ! — it  may  be — but  I  hear  so  many  dif- 
ferent stories  about  the  same  thing,  that  I  scarcely  know  which 
to  believe  ;  I  wish  that  God  had  told  us  all  about  it  in  the  bible, 
and  then  nobody  could  doubt!" 

An  excuse  for  the  want  of  education,  and  ignorance  of  lite- 
rature among  the  females,  is  found  in  the  late  colonial  system 
of  Spain,  which  could  not  have  existed  so  long  as  it  did,  had 
no  precautions  been  taken  to  withhold  knowledge  from  the 

•  Un  Transcunte. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  267 

people.  Yet  this  is  but  one  of  the  many  commentaries  to  be 
found  on  the  cruelty  of  that  system,  and  the  present  generation 
should  not  be  reproached  with  it.  From  the  conviction  of  the 
better  classes  of  men,  that  the  country  cannot  be  tranquil  while 
universal  ignorance  prevails,  and  from  the  exertions  which 
have  been  lately  made  to  establish  schools  throughout  Peru,  it 
is  to  be  hoped,  that  the  next  generation  will  be  better  informed. 

When  a  people  are  deficient  in  general  knowledge,  it  cannot 
be  expected  that  they  should  speak  their  language  with  purity. 
Though  it  is  said  that  the  Spanish  is  better  spoken  in  Lima, 
than  in  any  other  part  of  South  America  bordering  the  Pacific, 
there  are  many  palpable  errors  in  pronunciation,  and  many 
provincialisms  which  pass  current  even  in  the  best  society. 
Both  in  writing  and  speaking,  the  //  and  y  are  frequently  sub- 
stituted one  for  the  other ;  as,  yanto  for  llanto — lUiravi  for 
yhravi — Taraya  for  Taralla,  &c.  The  B  and  V  are  very 
generally  confounded,  and  the  ultimate  D  in  the  participle  is 
almost  constantly  suppressed,  as,  armilo  for  a?,mado,  consuldo 
for  consulado,  &c. 

The  tertulias  of  Lima  are  attended  by  a  certain  fashionable 
set,  who  have  their  evenings  at  home  in  turn,  so  that  there  is 
one  or  two  soiries  every  week.  They  vary  but  little  from 
each  other,  and  seeing  one  is  seeing  the  whole,  for  the  same 
company  and  the  same  amusements  are  usually  found.  It  is  at 
these  tertulias,  the  accomplishments  of  the  ladies  may  be  seen 
to  the  greatest  advantage. 

On  a  Sunday  evening  I  visited  my  friend  Dona  Panchita. 
The  ladies  of  the  party  were  of  several  castes,  from  the  Cir- 
cassian complexion,  passing  through  light  and  dark  brunette, 
to  that  in  which  Africa  had  claims  for  several  sombre  shades. 
One  lady  in  particular  drew  my  attention,  who  was  evidently 
of  an  Ethiopian  ancestry,  for  her  hair  had  an  uncontrollable 
disposition  to  curling  and  crisping,  which  all  her  combs  could 
not  suppress.  She  was  musical,  and  played  and  sang  some  of 
Rossini's  pieces  with  great  energy,  to  the  admiration  of  every 
body.  Though  these  parties  are  attended  on  a  general  invita- 
tion, and  take  place  on  stated  nights,  the  ladies  always  appear 
in  full  dress.     They  wear  two  very  light  combs,  cut  in  various 


268  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

forms ;  some  resemble  baskets  of  flowers,  some  are  like  feathers, 
and  others  are  in  the  guise  of  wreaths.  Besides  the  combs,  the 
only  ornaments  worn  in  the  hair,  are  natural  flowers,  which 
they  are  eminently  tasteful  in  arranging. 

The  Limenas  possess  good  figures,  serene  countenances, 
rather  inclining  to  pensiveness,  vivid  black  eyes,  and  are  skill- 
ed in  all  the  little  blandishments  of  coquettes  and  belles.  Their 
conversation  is  sprightly  at  times,  and  I  think  I  have  never 
seen  any  thing  in  their  manners  to  which  the  term  maavaise 
honte  can  be  applied — not  even  when  surprised  in  the  most 
ordinary  dishabille. 

Among  the  gentlemen  were  several  generals  and  colonels, 
in  gorgeous  uniforms,  glittering  in  the  dim  light  of  tallow  can- 
dles, and  looking  as  fierce  as  mustaches  and  whiskers  could 
make  them.  The  tonsures  of  the  curate,  a  canonigo,  and  seve- 
ral priests  from  a  neighboring  convent,  were  conspicuous. 
About  seven  o'clock,  tea  and  coffee  were  served,  and  immedi- 
ately afterwards  the  party  grouped  off,  and  the  amusements  of 
the  evening  began. 

The  young  ladies  and  gentlemen  took  possession  of  the  draw- 
ing room,  to  amuse  themselves  with  music  and  dancing,  while 
the  elder  part  of  the  assemblage  formed  a  party  to  play  at 
"Monte  al  dao."  The  canonigo,  and  a  colonel,  sat  down  at 
chess ;  a  general  and  a  priest  were  soon  engaged  at  backgam- 
mon, playing  for  an  onza  ($  17)  a  game,  and  Dona  Panchita's 
husband,  who  is  tolerant  of  all  his  wife's  ways,  with  a  veteran 
general  and  two  old  ladies,  retired  into  a  corner  to  divert  their 
minds  with  "malilla." 

The  "  monte  al  dao,"  is  a  game  (I  believe)  only  played  in 
Peru.  A  table  was  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  room,  and  co- 
vered with  a  green  cloth,  having  two  concentric  circles  drawn 
upon  it,  which  were  crossed  by  diametrical  lines,  and  in  the 
quadrants  or  angles  thus  formed,  were  alternately  written  A 
and  S.  Each  one  of  the  company  seated  round  the  table,  had 
a  little  heap  of  gold  and  silver  before  him.  Opposite  to  each 
other,  at  the  sides  of  the  table,  stood  two  gentlemen ;  one  had 
a  large  pile  of  gold  and  silver  before  him,  and  the  other  threw 
a  pair  of  dice  from  his  hand,  with  a  careless  ease  which  long 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  269 

practice  alone  can  bestow.  The  bets  were  placed,  some  within 
the  angles,  and  others  betwixt  the  circles. 

"  Todo  como  pinta  !" — All  as  it  appears — cried  the  banker, 
thereby  announcing  that  if  gold  coins  were  hidden  among  the 
silver,  they  would  not  be  reckoned  such. 

"  Ya  voy!" — Now  I  cast — said  the  thrower  of  dice,  and 
agitating  them  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand,  for  a  single  moment, 
the  fatal  cubes  rolled  over  the  cloth.  The  eyes  of  those  seated, 
followed  them  with  interest,  while  those  who  stood  behind  the 
ladies'  chairs,  stretched  forward  to  see  how  fortune's  favors 
went.  The  throw  resulted  in  nothing.  The  dice  again  rolled 
over  the  table,  followed  by  all  eyes.  "  Ace  and  deuce  !"  cried 
a  half  dozen  at  the  same  time.  The  S  lost,  and  the  A  won.  The 
ladies  who  had  bet  on  A,  extended  their  hands,  glittering  with 
diamond  rings,  to  gather  in  their  winnings,  while  those  who 
had  risked  on  S,  saw  their  cash  scooped  into  the  banker's  pile. 
The  money  between  the  circles  still  remained.  Bets  were  again 
made,  and  the  dice  again  thipwn. 

The  game  is  thus :  ace  and  deuce,  doublets  ace,  deuce  and 
four,  win  for  A ;  five  and  six,  and  doublets  three,  five  and  six, 
win  for  S.  The  bets  between  the  circles  are  lost  and  won,  only 
when  doublets  are  thrown.  The  advantage  possessed  by  the 
bank,  is  a  discount  of  one-fifth,  when  the  bets  are  decided  by 
the  first  throw. 

The  amounts  staked,  are  from  a  real  to  one,  two,  and  even 
three  hundred  dollars  !  Sometimes  gold  alone  is  admitted  on 
the  table.  I  have  seen  ten  thousand  dollars  lost  and  won  on  a 
Sunday  morning !  So  strong  is  the  passion  for  this  game,  that 
children  of  eight  or  ten  years  old  are  seen  at  tertulias,  ventur- 
ing their  pocket  money  at  monte  ! 

As  the  players  became  more  interested,  the  bets  grew  high- 
er, and  the  betters  increased  in  number,  forming  a  crowd  round 
the  table.  All  was  silent.  The  muscles  of  those  who  lost,  be- 
came rigid,  producing  a  most  unpleasant  expression  of  counte- 
nance, and  the  cigars  were  smoked  more  rapidly  than  ever. 
The  winners  allowed  the  smoke  to  curl  from  the  mouth  and 
nostrils  in  a  quiet  cloud,  while  a  smile  of  satisfaction  played 
over  their  features.  Ladies  and  gentlemen  smoke  together.  A 


270  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

frequent  compliment  paid  by  the  hostess,  is  to  present  a  cigar, 
after  smoking  a  few  whiffs,  to  her  most  distinguished  guest. 

"  Qui  vit  sans  tabac  n'est  pas  digne  dc  vivre  !"*  seems  to  be 
a  creed  subscribed  to  in  Lima.  Within  a  few  years,  however, 
the  elder  ladies  alone  smoke  in  this  kind  of  tertulia;  the  younger 
ones  enjoy  the  cigar  only  in  private,  and  very  many  never  in- 
dulge in  this  practice.  I  have  never  seen  a  Limanian  who 
chewed  tobacco,  but  snuff  taking  is  quite  common.  As  in  Chile, 
the  "  pinganillos,"  or  dandies,  carry  small  gold  tweezers  to 
hold  the  "cigarito,"  to  avoid  staining  their  fingers. 

It  is  interesting  to  observe  the  contrast  between  the  parties 
in  the  different  rooms.  In  the  one  is  a  scene  of  gambling  en- 
veloped in  cigar  smoke,  while  in  the  other  is  presented  a  pic- 
ture of  hilarity  and  innocent  amusement.  A  few  cakes  and 
sweetmeats,  with  cordial  and  wine,  are  the  only  refreshments 
served.  About  half  past  ten  o'clock  the  party  broke  up,  and 
the  family,  after  partaking  of  a  hot  supper,  retired. 

The  morale  of  Lima  society,  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact, 
that  females,  married  or  single,  who  are  known  to  have  yielded 
to  amatory  intrigues,  are  received  in  the  fashionable  circles. 
Few  persons  who  know  any  thing  of  Lima,  have  not  heard  of 
the  celebrated  Josepha  Luisa,  the  heroine  of  a  correspondence 
between  herself  and  a  notorious  judge,!  which  was  printed  at 

•  "  Quoi  qu'en  dise  Aristote,  et  sa  docte  cabale, 
Le  tabac  est  divin,  il  n'est  rien  qui  l'egale  ; 
Et  par  les  faineants,  pour  fuir  l'oisivet£, 
Jamais  amusement  ne  fut  mieux  invente, 
Ne  sauroit-on  que  dire  ?  on  prend  la  tabatiere ; 
Soudain  a  gauche,  a  droit,  par  devant,  par  derriere ; 
Gens  de  toutes  facons,  connus  et  non  connus, 
Pour  y  demander  part  sont  tres  bien  venus, 
Mais  c'est  peu  qu'a  donner  instruisant  la  jeunesse, 
Le  tabac  1'  accoutume  a  faire  ainsi  largesse; 
C'est  dans  la  medecine  un  remcde  nouveau  : 
Il  purge,  rejouit,  conforte  le  cerveau ; 
])e  toute  noire  humeur  promptement  le  delivre  ; 
Et  qui  vit  sans  tabac  n'est  pas  digue  de  vivre, 

O  tabac,  6  tabac,  nies  plus  cheres  amours  ! " 

Le  Festin  de  Pierre. 
f  Manuel  Lorenzo  Vidaurre  y  Encalada. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  271 

Philadelphia,  in  1S23,  under  the  title  of  Cartas  Americanas. 
He  is  portrayed  in  that  work  as  a  second  St.  Preux,  and  she  as 
another  Nouvelle  Heloise.  He  now  holds  a  distinguished  place 
under  the  government,  and  she,  though  known  to  be  the  mo- 
ther of  some  of  his  children,  and  sister  of  his  wife,  is  seen  at 
the  theatre,  and  every  where  with  the  haat  ton!  The  passion 
which  suggested  the  correspondence,  no  longer  exists ;  yet 
neither  of  them  is  ashamed  of  its  publicity.  On  the  contrary, 
he  has  attempted  to  defend  his  letters,  as  well  as  the  senti- 
ments contained  in  them,  by  assuring  us  that,  they  were  pub- 
lished for  the  instruction  of  his  countrymen  !  He  even  pro- 
posed distributing  copies,  to  be  left  on  the  tables  at  the  various 
cafes,  as  tracts  are  piously  scattered  in  the  United  States  !  If 
all  who  are  in  similar  circumstances  in  the  "  City  of  Freemen,'* 
were  banished  from  its  social  world,  fashionable  society  would 
be  obliterated ! 

It  is  very  generally  acknowledged,  that  the  Limanas  exer- 
cise an  almost  unlimited  sway  over  the  gentlemen,  whether 
husbands  or  "cortejos" — cavalieri  serventi.  Yet  there  is  a 
most  remarkable  inconsistency  in  the  habits  of  the  people, 
where  ladies  are  concerned.  An  unmarried  lady  is  never  per- 
mitted to  go  out,  without  being  attended  by  the  mother,  an 
old  aunt,  a  married  sister,  or  some  chaperone ;  nor  is  she  ever 
left  alone  with  a  gentleman,  unless  he  be  an  admitted  suitor. 
Now,  it  has  often  puzzled  me  to  divine  how  young  ladies  thus 
closely  watched,  can  possibly  find  an  opportunity  to  listen  to 
the  secret  communications  of  their  lovers.  But  it  is  this  very 
watching  which  makes  them  such  adepts  in  intrigue;  " Love 
laughs  at  locksmiths."  The  saya  y  manto  is  the  talisman 
which  saves  them  from  every  difficulty.  In  that  dress  neither 
husbands  nor  brothers  can  easily  recognise  them,  and  to  make 
the  mask  still  more  complete,  they  sometimes  substitute  a  ser- 
vant's torn  saya,  which  precludes  all  possibility  of  discovery ; 
their  only  danger  is  in  being  missed  from  home. 

This  strict  surveillance  is  at  once  removed  by  matrimony. 
The  married  lady  enjoys  perfect  liberty,  and  seldom  fails  to 
make  use  of  her  privilege.    Intrigues  are  carried  on  to  a  great 


272  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

extent  in  the  fashionable  circles;  but,  I  think  there  is  more 
virtue  and  morality  to  be  met  with  in  the  second  ranks. 

The  ladies  in  Lima  seldom  nurse  their  children,  but  confide 
their  tender  offspring  to  the  care  of  the  females  of  the  various 
castes.  An  infant  scarcely  attains  a  month  old,  before  they 
commence  feeding  it  with  broth,  which  is  an  abundant  reason 
why  the  adult  population  have  feeble  constitutions,  and  are  un- 
able to  bear  cold.  In  the  months  of  June,  July,  and  August, 
though  the  thermometer  does  not  sink  below  55°  F.,  men 
never  think  of  walking  the  street  in  the  morning  or  evening 
without  being  enveloped  in  the  Spanish  cloak. 

Families  even  of  moderate  fortunes  live  in  splendid  style, 
and  dress  as  extravagantly  as  their  means  and  credit  will  allow. 
They  keep  a  host  of  useless  servants.  There  must  be  a  nurse 
for  each  child,  a  porter,  a  calesero,  a  waiter,  a  dueiia  or  house- 
keeper, and  two  or  three  blacks  in  the  kitchen  and  stables. 
The  lady  must  have  a  calesa,  coute  qui  coule.  When  reverses 
compel  the  family  to  dispose  of  the  calesa,  which,  being  the 
last  article  parted  with,  indicates  the  near  approach  of  ruin,  a 
part  of  the  bargain  always  urged  is,  that  the  purchaser  shall 
alter  the  paint  that  it  may  not  be  known  ! 

Considering  the  little  industry  among  the  ladies,  and  their 
want  of  taste  for  reading,  it  may  be  reasonably  asked,  how 
they  get  through  the  twenty-four  hours.  A  fashionable  belle 
rises  at  daylight,  hastens  through  her  prayers  at  the  Dearest 
church,  and  returned  home,  retires  again  to  slumber  till  about 
nine  or  ten  o'clock.  About  eleven  she  takes  her  breakfast 
alone,  which  is  frequently  purchased  to  the  street;  few  families 
assemble  at  this  meal,  each  one  eating  at  his  own  hour,  and 
whatever  his  appetite  may  suggest.  A  gentleman  told  me,  that 
he  did  not  see  his  wife  before  dinner  from  one  end  of  the  year 
to  the  other.  In  some  houses,  each  one  receives  a  certain 
weekly  stipend  for  his  maintenance  from  his  father,  which  is 
spent  at  the  cook  shops  about  the  city.  The  family  cook  sel- 
dom prepares  any  thing,  except  hot  water  for  making  choco- 
late or  mate. 

After  breakfast  the  lady  smokes  a  cigar  or  two,  and  strolls 
about  the  house  with  her  hair  hanging  over  her  shoulders,  dnM 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  273 

loose,  and  slip-shod,  in  silk  stockings,  occasionally  rubbing  her 
teeth  with  a  slender  root,  the  end  of  which  is  chewed  till  its 
fibres  separate  and  resemble  a  brush.  Notwithstanding  that 
they  are  fond  of  bathing  in  the  warm  months,  ladies  seldom 
think  of  washing  their  faces  before  breakfast  in  the  winter, 
but  substitute  the  corner  of  a  damp  towel.  They  allege,  that 
washing  in  the  morning  is  attended  with  the  great  risk  of 
causing  ague,  which  prevails  more  or  less  throughout  the  year. 
A  lady  once  asked  her  physician,  in  my  presence,  whether 
she  might  wash  her  hands  and  face  in  a  little  warm  water;  "1 
have  not  washed  either,"  said  she,  "for  seven  days,  and  they 
feel  extremely  greasy  and  uncomfortable!" 

About  midday  commences  the  important  business  of  dress- 
ing the  hair,  which  occupies  an  hour.  That  finished,  the  shoes 
are  pulled  up  at  the  heel,  a  large  shawl  is  cast  over  the  shoulders, 
and  the  lady,  (particularly  if  married),  is  ready  to  receive  any 
visiters  she  can  expect  on  ordinary  occasions.  The  hour  before 
dinner  is  spent  in  covering  "  mechas,"  or  in  some  trifling  needle- 
work, unless  there  be  a  new  dress  to  make.  Dinner  and  the 
siesta  take  up  the  afternoon  till  five  or  six  o'clock,  when  she 
dresses  to  walk  out  or  to  receive  her  friends.  Such  is  the 
usual  employment  of  ladies  of  great  as  well  as  of  moderate  for- 
tunes. Those  of  the  second  class  are  much  more  industrious, 
and  are  very  skilful  with  the  needle. 

Notwithstanding,  the  Limanians  of  the  same  family  have 
much  more  respect,  if  not  affection  for  each  other,  than  is  com- 
monly manifested  by  Americans.  The  younger  brothers  and 
sisters  are  always  obedient  to  their  elders;  men  established  in 
life  often  refuse  to  perform  trifling  acts,  on  the  ground  that 
they  may  be  disagreeable  to  their  fathers  or  mothers,  and  I 
have  seen  widows  who  had  returned  to  the  homes  of  their  pa- 
rents after  their  husbands'  death,  quite  as  scrupulously  obe- 
dient as  children  of  three  or  four  years  old!  "Honor  thy 
father  and  thy  mother,  that  thy  days  may  be  long  in  the  land," 
is  a  precept  strictly  observed.  The  ties  of  consanguinity  are 
stronger,  and  are  more  widely  extended  than  with  us ;  cousins 
are  almost  as  near  as  brothers — in  fact,  they  are  quite  as  affec- 
tionately treated  and  considered.  This  habit  of  feeling  may  be 
35 


274  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

entirely  owing  to  the  law  of  primogeniture,  which  enhances 
the  consideration  of  the  first  horn;  the  republican  shift-for- 
yourself  principle,  is  unfavorable  to  the  cherishing  those  clanish 
feelings  of  propinquity  which  we  meet  in  ancient  families. 

Gambling  is  the  bane  of  Lima  society.  Though  many  laws 
have  been  made  against  it,  "  monte  al  dao"  is  played,  often  to 
a  ruinous  extent.*  Gaming  houses  are  kept  secretly  in  almost 
every  part  of  the  city,  which  are  open  throughout  the  day  and 
night.  The  very  legislators  and  officers  of  the  police  coun- 
tenance them  by  their  presence.  The  President's  chaplain 
told  me  that  General  La  Fuente,  the  late  Vice  President,  had 
won  $50,000  during  the  first  year  he  was  in  office  ! 

Besides  the  monte  houses,  the  cafes  and  hotels  are  furnished 
with  billiard  tables,  to  which  the  young  men  habitually  resort 
to  play,  anjd  the  very  poorest  of  the  populace  have  their  pecu- 
liar games.  A  mode  of  gambling  which  I  have  occasionally 
seen  in  the  plaza  and  streets,  illustrates  the  universality  of  this 
passion.  Two  fellows  purchase  two  small  boxes  of  sweet- 
meats, and  placing  them  at  a  short  distance  apart,  lie  down 
near,  to  watch  ;  and,  betting  that  a  fly  will  alight  on  one  be- 
fore it  does  on  the  other,  agree  that  whoever  the  insect  favors 
shall  take  both  boxes  ! 

Should  this  be  deemed  an  exaggerated  sketch  of  Lima  man- 
ners and  customs,  I  beg  the  reader  to  look  at  the  work  of  Ta- 
ralla,t  which  is  admitted  by  all  Limanians  to  be  a  true  picture, 
but  rather  highly  colored.  I  am  sorry  to  differ  so  much  from 
the  high  authority  of  the  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia,  as  quoted 
by  Mr.  Benjamin  Morrell,  Jr.  ;  but  I  must  say  with  Rousseau, 
"e'est  ma  part  de  dire  la  v6rit6,  mais  non  pas  de  la  faire 
croire  !" 

•  The  law  of  1822,  prohibiting  gambling,  gives  one  half  of  the  money 
found  on  the  table  to  the  informer,  and  the  other  to  the  public  Ueasury. 
j  Lima  por  Deutro  y  Fuera.    Madrid,  1798. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  275 


CHAPTER  X. 

Sunday  in  Lima — Books — Machero — Misturas — Puchero  de  Flores — Street  of 
peril — Scene  on  the  Alameda — Cock-pit — Theatre. 

Sunday,  in  Lima,  is  devoted  to  pleasure  and  recreation  by 
all  classes.  In  the  morning,  the  plaza  is  the  centre  of  attrac- 
tion. About  nine  o'clock,  the  tables  under  the  port&les  present 
a  most  motley  display  of  small  wares,  old  prints,  old  books, 
new  books — chiefly  translations  from  the  French,  and  French 
editions,  among  which  are  usually  seen,  Spanish  versions  of 
several  of  Scott's  novels,  and  the  Spy  by  our  countryman 
Cooper.  Sometimes  the  plays  of  Calderon  are  severed  from 
the  binding,  and  sold  singly,  to  accommodate  purchasers. 
There  are  cases  and  tables  loaded  with  the  smoker's  appara- 
tus ; — segarreros,  macheros,  mechas,  flints  and  steel ;  and 
others  with  German  toys,  rough  hardware,  and  imitation  jew- 
elry. 

Every  man  in  Lima  carries  in  his  pocket  the  means  of 
lighting  his  cigar.  The  segarrero  has  been  already  described. 
The  machero  consists  of  a  tube  about  three  inches  and  a  half 
long,  and  a  half  inch  in  diameter,  made  of  gold  or  silver. 
Through  it  is  strung  a  match,  which  is  composed  of  spunk, 
{artemesia  Chinensis)  brought  from  Guatamala,  put  up  in 
long  rolls  about  a  half  inch  thick  and  one  or  two  feet  long. 
This  is  cased  with  calico  or  silk ;  sometimes  beautifully  em- 
broidered, or  sometimes  braided  with  various  colored  ribbons. 
The  ornamenting  of  "mechas"  falls  within  the  province  of 
the  belles,  who  present  them,  perfumed  with  sweet  smelling 
roots  and  gums,  in  compliment  to  the  beaux.  The  end  of  the 
match  which  is  fired,  passes  through  the  tube,  and  is  hooked 
by  a  chain  to  a  button  or  plug,  which,  excluding  the  air,  ex- 
tinguishes the  fire  after  it  is  no  longer  required.  To  the  other 
end,  is  appended  a  silken  cord  tastefully  knotted  at  the  ex- 
tremity, or  instead,  a  gold  chain  terminated  with  a  small  figure 


276  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

of  a  fish  or  animal.  The  mnchero  costs  from  one  to  forty 
dollars,  and  even  more,  according  to  the  material  and  orna- 
ments, which  sometimes  consist  of  a  ring  of  diamonds  round 
the  middle  !  Without  the  steel  and  flint,  however,  the  appa- 
ratus is  incomplete.  The  steel  is  frequently  embossed  with 
gold  and  silver  in  some  fanciful  sketch  on  one  side,  and  on  the 
reverse,  the  name  of  its  owner.  The  steel  alone  is  sometimes 
worth  ten  dollars,  and  in  "old  times"  flints  sold  at  from 
twenty-five  cents  to  a  dollar  each  ! 

From  nine  until  one  o'clock  the  portades  are  thronged  with 
people,  moving  in  opposite  directions  ;  some  are  buying  toys 
and  books,  and  others  are  there  to  see  and  be  seen.  The  gay 
uniforms  of  the  officers,  the  sombre  garb  of  priests  and  friars, 
the  learned  black  coats  of  students  and  judges,  the  new  and 
glossy  saya  and  gay  black  e)^e  peeping  from  behind  the  manto, 
the  shrivelled  uncovered  face  of  age,  no  longer  stirred  by  joy, 
but  still  arrayed  in  manto  and  saya  of  her  younger  days,  the 
disguised  belle,  the  blind  mendicant  in  tatters,  led  by  a  squalid 
child,  the  mulatto  wench  with  hair  frizzed  and  sprinkled  with 
jasmine  flowers,  the  barefoot  Indian,  the  sandalled  negro,  and 
liveried  black,  all  figure  in  the  moving  mass. 

Near  the  eastern  end  of  the  portad  sit  the  "  mistureras"  or 
flower  venders,  selling  nosegays  both  to  belles  and  beaux.  A 
"  mistura"  consists  of  flower  petals  of  various  kinds,  orange 
blossoms,  sweet  cherimoya  buds,  and  jasmine,  tied  in  a  piece  of 
plantain  leaf.  Here  also  are  sold  a  small  kind  of  apple,  and  an 
orange,  (naranja  de  Quito),  which  are  wreathed  over  with 
small  fragments  of  cinnamon  and  cloves  by  the  ladies,  and  sent 
as  complimentary  presents  to  their  friends.  They  are  called 
**  manzamtas  ambareadas."  One  of  these  apples,  with  two  or 
three  capulies  and  as  many  cherries,  placed  in  a  piece  of  plan- 
tain leaf  about  one-quarter  of  the  size  of  a  sheet  of  foolscap 
paper,  and  sprinkled  with  chamomile  flowers,  violets,  aromas, 
(a  yellow,  sweet  scented  flower),  margaritas,  (a  species  of  lily), 
with  a  sprig  of  sweet  basil,  formed  what  was  anciently  called 
a  "  puchcro  de  flores,"  which  cost  from  two  reales  to  three  dol- 
lars, according  to  the  season.  Young  ladies  frequently  make 
"  pucheros  de  flores,"  sometimes  perfuming  them  with  incense 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  277 

and  sweet  gums,  and  distribute  them  to  their  visiters.  The 
presentation  of  "  manzanitas  ambareadas"  and  flower  petals  is 
quite  common,  but  the  "puchero"  is  somewhat  out  of  date. 

Formerly,  a  row  of  women  sat  in  front  of  the  cathedral,  and 
sold  the  materials  for  the  "  puchero"  at  wholesale ;  and  in  front 
of  them  another  row,  having  small  tables  on  which  they  com- 
pounded the  "misturas"  and  pucheros,  in  a  serious,  but  at  the 
same  time,  pleasant  mood.  From  the  great  price  demanded 
for  the  puchero,  not  unfrequently  a  half  doubloon,  this  alley 
of  florists  was  called  "la  calle  de  peligro" — street  of  peril — 
alluding  to  the  great  danger  which  the  pockets  of  the  young 
beaux  ran  of  being  exhausted  on  nosegays  for  their  sweet- 
hearts.* Even  in  these  days  of  reform  and  cheapness,  I  have 
seen  a  dollar  paid  for  a  single  rose,  and  half  that  sum  for  a 
dahlia,  to  decorate  a  lady's  head  ! 

In  the  afternoon,  one  of  the  alamedas  is  resorted  to  by  the 
better  part  of  the  population,  for  the  pleasure  of  the  promenade. 
La  Alameda  de  los  Descalzos,  a  pleasant  walk  of  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  length,  is  the  most  fashionable.  On  each  side  there  is  a 
double  row  of  trees,  with  a  path  between  them.  The  centre  ave- 
nue is  about  sixty  feet  broad,  shaded  by  the  almost  interlock- 
ing branches  on  each  side,  having  at  equidistances  the  founda- 
tions of  several  unfinished  fountains.  This  alameda  derives  its 
name  from  a  convent  of  Franciscans,  standing  at  one  end  of  it, 
called  El  convento  de  los  padres  Descalzos.  These  barefoot 
fathers  maintain,  by  begging,  a  public  table,  where  the  poor 
are  free  to  dine  on  wholesome  and  substantial  food  every  day 
of  the  week.  Not  far  from  the  alameda  are  the  celebrated 
baths  of  Piedra  Lisa,  which  are  much  visited  during  the  sum- 
mer months,  both  by  ladies  and  gentlemen. 

About  five  o'clock,  calesas  are  seen  standing  beneath  the 
trees.  Their  fair  occupants,  in  gala  attire,  sit  and  behold  the 
passers-by,  enjoying  at  the  same  time  a  quiet  airing,  to  say  no- 
thing of  the  gratification  of  being  gazed  on  and  bowed  to  by 
their  friends.  The  young  cavaliers  display  their  steeds  and 
horsemanship  to  the  eyes  of  the  fair  ones.    On  the  side  walks, 

*  Mercurio  Peruano. 


27S  TIIREF.   VKARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

either  seated  or  promenading,  are  hundreds  of  sayas  y  mantos, 
watching  the  scene  before  them,  while  gentlemen  scrutinize 
the  cautious  glance  of  that  single  eye,  and  arching  black  brow 
contrasting  with  the  forehead,  to  discover  if  possible  who  the 
mistress  may  be,  but  she  laughs  at  their  curiosity,  and  sets  it 
at  defiance.  He  who  cannot  admire  a  beautiful  woman  with 
all  his  five  senses,  cannot  estimate  the  greatest  and  most  per- 
fect work  of  nature.  It  is  thrilling  to  your  man  of  sensibility 
to  behold  the  soft  motion  of  these  "tapadas,"  as  those  are 
termed  who  walk  with  only  one  eye  discovered.  There  is  an 
ease  and  grace  in  the  step  not  easily  portrayed  ;  such  sylph- 
like steps,  such  figures,  such  laughing  eyes, 

"  And  such  sweet  girls — I  mean  such  graceful  ladies, 
Their  very  walk  would  make  your  bosom  swell ; 
I  can't  describe  it,  though  so  much  it  strike, 
Nor  liken  it — I  never  saw  the  like  !" 

At  sunset,  the  whole  crowd  streams  towards  the  city.  The 
bridge  is  lined  with  gentlemen  waiting  to  catch  one  more 
glance  from  some  eye,  which  they  fancy  their  penetration  has 
discovered.  It  is  vain  ;  the  mask  is  too  perfect.  The  stream 
pours  into  the  portal,  and  thence  diffuses  itself  through  the 
several  streets  leading  from  the  plaza. 

Those  who  do  not  take  an  airing  in  the  alameda,  generally 
resort  to  the  Coliseo  de  los  Gallos,  or  cock-pit.  It  was  erected 
in  1762;  and  in  1790,  paid  to  the  government  annually  for  a 
license,  7,010  dollars,  which  were  distributed  among  various 
institutions  of  charity  and  education  in  the  city. 

The  Coliseum  is  an  amphitheatre,  with  an  arena  fifty  feet  in 
diameter,  surrounded  by  nine  benches  rising  one  behind  the 
other,  and  above,  by  a  tier  of  twenty-nine  galleries  or  boxes, 
(including  that  of  the  judge,)  supported  on  wooden  pillars, 
and  accessible  by  flights  of  stairs  on  the  outside  of  the  building, 
which  stands  in  a  large  patio.  Opposite  to  each  other  are  doors 
opening  into  the  arena,  by  which  the  fowls  are  introduced. 
The  price  of  admission  is  two  reales,  but  the  seat  is  an  extra 
charge  of  one  real  in  the  pit,  and  four  in  the  boxes.* 

•  In  1822,  a  decree  was  issued,  abolishing  the  cock-pit,  and  annulling  the 
contract  of  its  manager  with  the  Spanish  government,  which  was  dated  1804. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  279 

It  is  said  that  public  cock-fighting  owes  its  origin  to  the  ex- 
pedition of  Themistocles  against  the  Persians.  On  that  occa- 
sion, he  exhorted  his  army  to  fight  for  their  country  with  the 
valor  and  indomitable  spirit  displayed  by  two  contending  cocks. 
To  commemorate  the  victory  of  their  great  captain,  the  Athe- 
nians devoted  one  day  every  year  to  exhibit  the  battles  of  these 
birds.  The  custom  passed  to  Rome,  and  on  the  days  of  exhi- 
bition, criers  went  through  the  streets  shouting  Pulli pugnant. 

On  Sundays  and  holy-days,  in  Lima,  though  not  announced 
by  a  town  crier,  it  is  generally  known  that  pulli  pugnant,  and 
a  large  part  of  the  population  attends  without  a  summons.  The 
hour  of  exhibition  is  four  o'clock,  but  before  that  time,  the 
seats  are  usually  crowded  by  people  of  all  kinds,  for  all  classes 
delight  in  this  sport.  The  judge,  who  is  an  alcalde,  takes  his 
place  in  his  box,  the  guards  at  the  doors  are  all  attention,  the 
"  servid&r,"  with  a  row  of  gafts  before  him,  takes  his  seat  be- 
neath the  judge,  and  the  "corred&res,"  or  criers  of  bets,  enter 
the  arena.  For  a  moment,  conversation  ceases.  Two  fowls  are 
brought  in,  from  the  opposite  doors,  and,  after  holding  them 
up  to  the  spectators,  their  heads  are  ceremoniously,  but  rudely, 
rubbed  together.  The  silence  is  broken.  One  "corredor" 
cries,  " ,;  Quien  va  en  el  pardo  ?" — who  goes  on  the  gray  ?  An- 
other shouts,  "  ,;  Cuanto  en  el  Colorado?" — how  much  on  the 
red?  Then  such  a  Babel-like  hum  breaks  out  in  the  pit  and 
boxes,  that  it  is  difficult  to  understand  any  thing  that  is  said. 
The  corred&res  shout  still  louder.  The  ladies  in  the  boxes  make 
signs  with  their  fingers ;  and  the  gentlemen  call  aloud  to  differ- 
ent people  at  the  same  time.  A  corred&r  understands  a  lady; 
"  Si  Senorita  !  and  looking  in  another  direction,  and  striking 
his  uplifted  left  arm,  with  two  fingers  of  his  right  hand,  cries 
again  and  again  in  a  rapid  voice,  "  Media  onza  en  el  pardo — 
,;  quien  quiere  media  onza  en  el  pardo  ?" — A  half  doubloon  on 
the  gray — who  wishes  a  half  doubloon  on  the  gray? 

Another  lady  makes  a  sign.  "  Bueno" — understood,  cries  a 
corredor.  At  the  same  moment  another  is  crying  "two  doub- 
loons on  the  red ;  who  bets  two  doubloons  on  the  red  ?"  In  the 
meantime  the  attendants  are  securing  to  the  birds  the  gafts,  or 


280  TIIREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

rather  slashers,  which  are  three  inches  long,  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  wide,  and  slightly  curved. 

Sufficient  time  having  elapsed,  the  judge  rings  a  small  bell, 
and  the  noise  and  confusion  are  succeeded  by  order  and  silence. 
Then  each  attendant  walks  to  the  servidor,  and  turns  the  back 
of  the  fowl  towards  him.  He  examines  the  slasher,  and,  find- 
ing it  properly  secured,  runs  his  thumb  over  its  edge,  to  be 
certain  of  its  keenness.  Then  it  is  sheathed  in  leather,  and  the 
birds  are  allowed  to  make  a  few  flies  at  each  other,  while  still 
retained  in  the  hands  of  their  respective  attendants.  The 
sheaths  are  now  removed,  and  the  cocks  are  set  down  at  oppo- 
site sides  of  the  ring.  All  is  silent.  The  valiant  bird  scratches 
the  earth,  looks  proudly  round,  and,  seeing  his  adversary, 

" treads  as  if,  some  solemn  music  near, 


His  measured  step  were  governed  by  his  ear  : 
And  seems  to  say — "  ye  meaner  fowl  give  place  I" 

He  flies  to  the  conflict.  If  not  decided  at  the  first  onset,  the 
hum  of  assertion  and  dispute  again  begins,  and  increases  with 
the  excitement,  till  it  becomes  as  noisy  as  before ;  both  sides, 
like  politicians  before  an  election,  certain  of  coming  off  victo- 
rious, loudly  offer  to  increase  the  bets,  and  thus  strengthen 
their  opinions.  But  at  last  one  of  the  combatants  falls  dead, 
and  decides  the  matter  beyond  dispute.  The  judge  rings,  and 
if  not  too  much  wounded,  the  victorious  cock  gives  a  trium- 
phant crow,  and  flaps  his  wings. 

The  corredores  are  now  seen  in  every  part  of  the  pit,  and 
in  the  boxes,  collecting  the  losings,  and  paying  the  winnings, 
from  which  they  deduct,  as  the  fee  of  their  service,  a  medio 
from  every  dollar.  The  noise  of  talk  still  continues;  some  are 
eulogizing  the  victorious  bird,  and  others  dispute  with  the  cor- 
redores about  the  bets.  In  the  meantime,  the  fowls  arc  carried 
to  the  servid&r,  who  removes  the  slashers,  and  cleans  them  of 
blood,  by  drawing  them  between  his  thumb  and  finger,  before 
he  lays  them  down.  Both  fowls  arc  carried  out  of  the  arena, 
and  others  brought  in,  and  the  same  scene  is  repeated. 

Sometimes  the  conflict  is  decided  at  the  first  fly  ;  I  have 
seen  both  birds  fall  dead  from  the  slashers  entering  the  brain 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  281 

or  some   other  vital   part.     Again,  the  fight  endures  several 
minutes,  and  hoth  fall,  exhausted  by  the  loss  of  blood. 

The  sums  bet  are  almost  incredible.  I  have  heard  of  fifty 
onzas  ($S50,)  being  risked  on  a  single  battle.  Usually,  how- 
ever, the  bets  run  from  one  to  a  hundred  dollars. 

Sunset  is  the  signal  for  concluding  the  sport ;  as  the  crowd, 
with  pleasure  written  on  their  countenances,  pours  into  the 
street,  they  are  met  by  the  venders  of  lottery  tickets,  and  the 
almost  ceaseless  cry  of  su — cr — te.  The  neighborhood  of  the 
cock-pit  is  distinguished  by  the  unusual  number  of  cocks  te- 
thered by  a  leg  to  the  door  of  almost  every  house. 

In  the  evening  the  theatre  is  the  grand  attraction.  It  stands 
in  the  rear  of  the  convent  of  St.  Augustin.  Its  exterior  is 
not  distinguished  from  any  of  the  neighboring  dwellings.  The 
interior  is  shabby,  and  generally  filled  with  fleas,  and  badly 
lighted.  It  has  three  tiers  of  boxes,  and  a  large  box  fronting 
the  stage  for  the  President  and  the  officers  of  the  government. 
The  boxes  are  separated  from  each  other  by  board  partitions, 
and  rented  by  the  season,  the  tenant  furnishing  it  with  chairs. 
The  pit  seats  have  backs,  and  are  numbered.  The  entrance  to 
the  boxes  is  by  stairs  on  the  outside,  which  lead  to  corridors 
upon  which  the  boxes  open. 

The  ladies  appear  at  the  theatre  dressed  with  taste  and  ex- 
travagance, but  the  arrangement  of  the  boxes  is  such,  that 
their  fine  figures  and  beautiful  eyes  do  not  appear  to  advantage. 
In  the  pit,  women  go  disguised,  or  rather  with  their  faces  con- 
cealed with  a  shawl  folded  over  the  head  in  such  a  way  as  to 
hide  all  but  one  eye.  Between  the  acts,  the  pit  appears  as  if 
it  were  filled  with  fire  flies,  from  the  scintillations  of  the  ma- 
cheros;  all  the  men  commence  smoking  so  soon  as  the  curtain 
drops.  Boys,  with  trays  of  sweetmeats,  circulate  through  the 
pit  and  the  corridors  of  the  boxes,  crying,  or  rather  vociferat- 
ing, "el  dulcero,"  or  "el  caramelero,"  while  others,  with 
glasses  of  water,  cry  "  un  vaso  de  agua. "  From  the  earliest 
times,  decrees  have  been  issued,  both  by  the  Viceroys  and 
Presidents,  against  smoking  in  the  theatre,  but  to  no  purpose. 
Even  the  old  ladies  retire  to  the  back  of  the  boxes  to  enjoy  a 
few  whiffs  during  the  intervals  of  the  play.  A  half  dozen  dirty 
36 


2S2  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

soldiers  are  stationed  in  different  parts  of  the  pit,  to  enforce 
order  and  prevent  smoking,  but  the  latter  is  so  difficult  a  task, 
that  rather  than  run  against  the  current  of  public  opinion,  they 
join  in  tbc  practice. 

The  orchestra  is  generally  very  good,  and  sometimes  excel- 
lent ;  during  the  period  that  the  opera  company  remained  in 
Lima,  it  was  much  improved.  The  players  are  rather  below 
mediocrity,  with  one  or  two  exceptions.  Lately,  an  actress 
from  the  Madrid  boards,  named  Samaniego,  has  been  here,  and 
were  she  not  so  very  large  and  advanced  in  years,  would  cer- 
tainly be  an  interesting  player,  particularly  in  tragedy.  Her 
children  are  also  considered  good.  The  actresses  are  generally 
fat,  shapeless,  uninteresting  creatures,  who  follow  the  prompter 
in  a  most  monotonous  tone.  The  top  of  the  prompter's  cap 
is  seen  moving,  as  his  head  turns  to  follow  the  lines  of  his 
book,  just  above  a  wooden  hood  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
stage ;  and  his  voice  is  heard  above  all.  There  is  one  of  the 
actresses  who  sings  very  well,  yet  I  am  assured  that  she  is  to- 
tally ignorant  of  music,  depending  altogether  upon  the  correct- 
ness of  her  ear. 

The  plays  generally  represented,  have  the  fault  of  a  too  pro- 
tracted dialogue,  with  but  little  action,  and  are  barren  in  plot. 
The  tragedies  are  wretched.  I  do  not  mean  that  all  Spanish 
tragedies  are  so,  but  allude  to  those  represented  in  Lima. 
There  is  one  lately  written  by  a  native,  founded  on  the  early 
history  of  the  conquest,  which  possesses  considerable  merit. 
The  best  part  of  the  entertainment  is  in  the  farce  or  "sainete," 
— pieces  of  one  act,  in  which  some  ludicrous  incident  in  low 
life  is  presented.  These  are  filled  with  proverbs,  in  which  the 
language  abounds,  and  with  humor,  though  too  frequently  of 
a  vulgar  and  indecent  kind.  There  is  one  entitled  El  Santo, 
which  is  what  the  Spanish  term  "mui  gracioso."  A  worthy 
wife  is  represented  as  receiving  visits  of  rather  an  improper 
kind,  from  the  sexton  of  the  parish  church,  and  in  order  to 
conceal  her  lover,  on  the  sudden  arrival  of  her  husband,  he  is 
disguised  and  mounted  on  a  table,  where  he  assumes  the  atti- 
tude of  a  saint.  The  husband  enters,  and  finds  his  wife  very 
piously  kneeling  before  it.    Seeing  her  devotion,  he  joins  her 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  283 

in  prayer,  and  then  asks  how  the  saint  came  there,  and  gets  a 
most  miraculous  account  of  its  appearance  in  the  house.  The 
husband  runs  out  to  assemble  the  village  to  carry  the  pretended 
image  in  procession,  and  in  the  mean  time,  the  wife  and  saint 
discuss  the  means  of  getting  free  from  the  difficulty  ;  but  the 
husband  returns  so  suddenly,  that  the  saint  has  not  time  to 
assume  his  position,  but  kneels  on  the  table.  The  village 
troop  assemble,  and  place  candles  in  the  saint's  hands,  and  carry 
him  around  in  procession.  They  at  last  discover  the  imposi- 
tion by  the  entrance  of  the  curate,  who  recognises  in  his  saint- 
ship  no  other  than  the  sexton.  Then  all  fall  to  beating  and 
maltreating  him,  and  applying  all  kinds  of  epithets,  producing 
most  immoderate  laughter  in  the  audience. 

Though  a  censor  was  appointed  in  1S22,  by  San  Martin,  to 
watch  over  the  morality  of  the  stage,  and  prevent  any  repre- 
sentation that  might  be  favorable  to  royalty  or  tyranny,  the 
Lima  theatre  is  far  from  having  any  claims  to  perfection  in 
this  respect.  On  particular  occasions,  fire  works  are  exhibited 
in  front  of  the  theatre,  just  as  the  audience  leave  it. 

Such  are  the  amusements  in  Lima,  on  Sundays  and  religious 
holy-days. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Bull-bait — Plaza  del  Acho. 


About  half  past  two  o'clock  on  a  Monday  afternoon,  in 
December,  people  of  all  classes  were  to  be  seen  pouring  from 
the  plaza  into  the  street  that  leads  over  the  bridge  to  the  suburb 
of  San  Lazaro.  The  tailor  left  his  thimble,  the  cobbler  deserted 
his  awl,  the  donkey  of  the  water  carrier  enjoyed  rest  for  a 
time,  the  collegian  threw  aside  his  book,  the  workshops  were 
closed,  the  merchant  left  his  store,  the  lady  gave  up  the  si6sta, 


284  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  the  president  of  the  republic  joined  in  to  fill  up  the  living 
stream,  that  moved  towards  the  Alameda  del  Acho.  Towards 
that  point  rolled  gay  calesas,  accompanied  by  gaily  dressed 
equestrians;  the  street  was  thronged  with  mulattoes  and  ne- 
groes, tapddas  and  priests — all  going  to  see  "los  toros" — the 
bulls! 

Along  the  street  leading  to  the  Alameda,  armed  lancers  from 
the  president's  guard,  were  stationed  about  a  hundred  yards 
apart,  gazing  quietly  on  the  passing  crowd,  with  hands  folded 
over  the  pommel  of  the  saddle,  and  lance  resting  on  the  foot  and 
reposing  against  the  shoulder.  Great  earthen  jars  of  chicha 
were  leaning  against  the  trees,  here  and  there,  from  which  ne- 
gresses  and  mulattoes,  bedizened  with  jasmine,  were  pumping 
through  great  canes,  "the  nectar  of  Peru,"  and  dispensing  it 
to  groups  of  the  lower  orders,  standing  around  them.  The 
sounds  of  harp  and  guitar,  and  fandango-footing,  streamed  from 
houses  in  the  vicinity.  It  was  a  heartfelt  holy-day,  for  all  class- 
es delight  in  the  spectacle  of  bull-baiting. 

The  Plaza  del  Acho,  which  is  enclosed  in  a  square,  is  a  large 
amphitheatre,  capable  of  containing  in  the  boxes,  and  on  the 
benches  which  surround  it,  rising  one  above  the  other,  not  less 
than  twelve  thousand  persons.  The  boxes  and  benches  are  sup- 
ported on  brick  pillars,  and  are  accessible  by  narrow  stairs 
from  the  outside.  The  arena  is  about  four  hundred  feet  in  dia- 
meter, surrounded  by  a  barrier  seven  feet  high,  through  which 
are  horizontal  slits  a  foot  broad,  opening  into  the  pit  beneath 
the  benches.  In  the  middle  of  the  arena,  just  far  enough  apart 
to  allow  a  man  to  pass  between  them,  are  several  posts  planted 
in  the  form  of  three  rays  diverging  from  a  centre.  At  one  point 
are  a  large  and  a  small  door,  side  by  side,  opening  into  the  pen 
where  the  bulls  are  kept,  and  over  them  is  the  box  of  the  Pre- 
fect of  Lima,  who  presides  over  the  exhibition,  and  bestows 
the  rewards  on  those  who  distinguish  themselves  in  the  fight. 
Opposite,  but  a  little  to  the  right,  is  a  large  box,  occupied  by 
the  president  and  his  suite,  and  to  the  left  is  a  large  door  through 
which  the  slaughtered  bull  disappears  from  the  arena. 

About  a  quarter  before  three,  the  place  seemed  full,  yet  peo- 
ple were  still  pouring  in.   The  ladies  appeared  in  their  usual  ex- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  285 

travagant  style  of  dress,  and  the  tapddas  or  cyclop  beauties 
were  numerous  in  every  direction.  The  motley  assemblage, 
which  we  had  seen  in  the  street,  now  occupied  the  benches. 
A  busy  hum  of  conversation  arose  continually  from  the  multi- 
tude ;  and  above  it  bawled  the  "dulcero,"  with  his  tray  of 
sweets,  the  "  almendrero,"  with  his  comfits,  the  "  caramelero," 
with  his  bons-bons.  Then  the  "aguador,"  with  pitcher  and 
glass,  cried  ever  and  anon,  "  un  vaso  dc  agua" — a  glass  of  water. 
The  "segarrero,"  proclaimed  "  segarros  de  mi  amo,  que  los 
hace  bien" — my  master's  cigars,  he  makes  them  well.  Occa- 
sionally this  fellow  paused  in  his  walk,  and  holding  the  fingers 
of  his  right  hand  to  his  mouth  for  a  moment,  smacked  his  lips 
as  if  tasting  something  delicious,  and,  bowing  as  he  swept  away 
his  hand,  ejaculated  in  a  tone  horribly  nasal,  "  que  cosa  tan 
rica!" — how  exquisite!  Other  negroes,  with  trays  of  square 
packages  of  boiled  corn,  resembling  homony,  clone  up  in  plan- 
tain leaf,  were  crying,  "maiz  bianco,  bien  caliente  !" — white 
corn,  very  hot ! 

In  spite  of  the  discordant  hum,  and  out-of-time  cries  of  those 
fellows  who  sell  trifling  sweets  and  sugar  plums  to  the  crowd, 
to  amuse  its  excitement,  (which  must  be  spending  itself  on 
something,)  those  in  the  arena  appear  perfectly  calm  and  uncon- 
cerned. The  matadores,  and  capeadores  on  foot,  with  their 
red  cloaks  flung  carelessly  over  one  shoulder,  so  as  to  discover 
the  pink  or  green  silk  jacket,  and  bright  yellow  breeches, 
trimmed  with  jaunty  bows  of  gay  ribbon,  and  with  the  hat  set 
knowingly  on  one  side  of  the  head,  sauntered  about  the  ring 
smoking  cigars.  The  rejoneadores  and  capeadores  on  horse- 
back, armed  with  short  spears, 

"  In  costly  sheen  and  gaudy  cloak  array'd," 

slowly  walked  their  animals  over  the  ground,  or  awaited  pa- 
tiently the  commencement  of  the  sport.  The  mayors  of  the 
plaza,  better  mounted  than  the  rest,  occasionally  dashed  after 
a  half  dozen  ragged  urchins,  who  were  playing,  and  chasing 
each  other  about  the  arena. 

At  last  the  "  despejo"  or  clearing  of  the  field  commenced. 
Part  of  a  well  dressed  regiment  entered  the  arena,  headed  by 


2S6  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

a  fine  band  in  a  Turkish  uniform,  playing  a  quick  step.  They 
marched  and  countermarched,  and  performed  several  military 
evolutions,  which  ended  in  a  sham  fight  with  a  second  party, 
that  attacked  them  from  several  points  at  the  same  time.  The 
orders  were  given  by  blast  of  trumpet  and  tap  of  drum.  This 
part  of  the  exhibition  was  highly  interesting,  and  very  credit- 
able to  the  troops. 

Precisely  at  three,  the  president  and  staff  entered  his  box, 
and  were  received  by  the  troops  with  presented  arms.  The 
Turkish  band  took  its  place  in  front  of  the  president's  box, 
and  the  troops  separated,  and  springing  over  the  barrier,  min- 
gled with  the  crowd  on  the  benches. 

The  rejoneadores  and  capeadores  on  horseback,  preceded  by 
the  mayors  of  the  plaza,  and  followed  by  the  matad&res  and 
capeadores  on  foot,  marched  slowly  round  the  whole  circle, 
bending  low  before  the  boxes  of  the  president  and  prefect,  and 
saluting  the  spectators  generally  as  they  passed  along.  This 
ceremony  ended,  the  matad&res  and  capeadores  on  foot  distri- 
buted themselves  in  various  parts  of  the  arena;  the  mayors 
took  a  position  of  safety,  and  the  rejoneadores  and  capeadores 
on  horseback,  holding  their  spears  by  the  end  in  the  right 
hand,  the  points  down,  trotted  gallantly  up  to  the  prefect's 
box  and  halted.  In  the  mean  time,  a  caricature  figure  of  a 
belle,  constructed  of  paper  and  reeds,  was  placed  not  far  from 
the  centre  of  the  ring.  The  din  and  buz  of  the  multitude  were 
for  a  moment  hushed.  A  trumpet  sounded  a  charge,  and  a 
rocket  whizzed  high  and  exploded  in  the  air.  Expectation 
was  mute.  The  den  flew  open,  and  a  noble  bull,  having  a 
cloth  ornamented  with  tinsel  and  ribbons  stitched  to  his  back, 
sprang  forth.  He  stood  for  a  moment  gazing  fiercely  right 
and  left,  lashing  his  tail  in  the  air,  and  pawing  the  earth;  he 
wavered  for  an  instant,  then  lowering  his  head,  dashed  at  a 
rejonead6r,  who,  with  admirable  skill,  flirted  a  short  red  man- 
tle in  his  eyes,  and  saved  himself  and  horse  from  the  bull's 
horns.  Foiled  in  this  attack,  the  enraged  animal  opened  his 
eyes  for  a  second,  (bulls  always  close  them  to  attack),  ami 
rushed  at  a  capeador,  who  received  him  on  the  point  of  his 
spear;  thrusting  him  three  times  in  the  neck,  he  turned  the 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  287 

bull,  and  received  the  applause  of  the  assembled  multitude; 
then  galloping  to  the  prefect's  box,  held  out  his  cap  and  ob- 
tained a  rouleau  of  four  dollars,  which  was  tossed  into  it  as  his 
reward.  Blood  trickled  over  the  bull's  broad  chest  and  down 
his  legs,  as  he  stood  wavering  in  which  direction  to  make  his 
next  attack.  Now  the  capeadores  on  foot  approached,  shak- 
ing their  red  cloaks  and  stamping  and  shouting  in  defiance. 
He  rushed  at  one  of  them,  and  bore  off  the  cloak  in  triumph 
on  his  long,  sharp  horn,  amidst  shouts  of  "  que  buen  lance, 
que  buen  lance  !" — a  good  feat,  a  good  feat !  Next,  his  furious 
attentions  were  bestowed  upon  the  paper  belle,  and  he  met  a 
warm  reception,  for  she  was  a  "  fire  ship"  of  rockets  and 
squibs,  which  burst  about  his  ears  in  a  hundred  irregular  ex- 
plosions, enhancing  his  violence  and  rage.  Shouts,  laughter, 
and  clapping  resounded  from  all  sides.  He  turned  impetu- 
ously upon  a  rejoneador,  who  poised  his  spear  and  drew  up 
his  horse  to  receive  the  charge.  His  aim  was  true ;  he  struck 
just  behind  the  skull,  and  the  bull  rolled  lifeless  on  the  ground, 
amidst  the  deafening  shouts  and  plaudits  of  the  spectators  ! 

Besides  the  public  approbation,  the  rejoneador  received  a 
reward  of  three  rouleaus,  of  four  dollars  each,  from  the  hands 
of  the  prefect. 

So  soon  as  the  bull  fell,  the  band  of  hautboys  and  squeaking 
clarionets,  stationed  near  the  prefect's  box,  ceased,  and  that  in 
the  Turkish  costume  struck  up  the  national  air  called  La  Sama 
cueca.  Four  horses  that  "spurned  the  rein,"  bedecked  with 
waving  plumes,  pranced  into  the  arena  under  the  guidance  of 
two  postillions.  A  mulatto  held  the  traces,  and  leaned  back- 
wards with  all  his  strength,  as  he  was  dragged  forward.  An 
axle  with  two  low  wheels  or  trucks,  was  secured  under  the 
bull's  head,  and  the  horses  were  attached.  Under  rapid  ap- 
plications of  whip  and  spur,  they  sprang  forward,  and  with  a 
great  sweep  disappeared  with  the  load  from  the  ring. 

The  pools  of  blood  were  carefully  swept  over  with  sand,  and 
another  paper  figure,  representing  a  jackass  playing  a  guitar, 
was  placed  on  the  spot  where  the  belle  had  been  so  unceremo- 
niously treated.  Again  the  trumpet  sounded,  and  again  a 
rocket  was  fired.    Another  fierce  animal  bounded  forth.    The 


2SS  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

capeadores  and  matadores  shook  their  red  cloaks  to  invite  him 
to  attack ;  but  they  danced  backwards  as  he  trotted  towards 
them.  At  last  he  rushed  upon  one,  and  received  a  slight  wound 
in  the  shoulder  from  the  sword  of  a  matador,  which  served  to 
inflame  his  fury.  He  gored  the  musical  jackass,  and  struck 
such  notes  as  neither  jackass  nor  guitar  ever  before  produced. 
Wild  with  rage,  he  darted  upon  a  rejoneador,  and  received  a 
spear  wound  in  the  neck,  from  which  the  blood  flowed  freely. 
He  evidently  suffered  pain,  but  did  not  complain,  though  he 
stood  at  bay.  The  capeadores  on  foot,  and  the  matadores  ap- 
proached, shook  their  cloaks,  stamped,  and  shouted,  but  he 
heeded  not.  Small  darts  loaded  with  lead  were  showered  upon 
him,  and  hung  quivering  in  his  hide;  this  roused  him,  and 
with  a  well  directed  aim  he  rushed  upon  "a  light  limbed  ma- 
tador," who  received  the  attack  dexterously  upon  his  cloak ; 
the  attack  was  renewed,  but  the  cloak  quit  the  hand,  and  quick 
as  thought  the  long  blade  was  sheathed  in  his  broad  chest. 
His  career  was  arrested  ;  he  staggered  once,  but  recovered ;  in- 
stinctively he  separated  his  feet  to  gain  a  broader  and  firmer 
base  ;  his  limbs  trembled  ;  he  hung  his  head,  and  making  an 
effort  to  cough,  belched  forth  a  torrent  of  gore ;  the  next  in- 
stant he  reeled,  and  his  feet  kicked  in  the  air !  From  the 
moment  the  wound  was  given,  the  multitude  was  silent;  no- 
thing was  heard  except  the  discordant  and  tearing  notes  of  the 
hautboys,  but  when  he  fell,  the  welkin  rang  with  applauding 
shouts,  "buen  lance,  buen  lance,"  and  the  band  struck  up  El 
Chocolate,  another  of  the  Peruvian  airs.  The  matador  received 
his  reward,  the  car  was  brought,  and  the  carcass  whirled  swiftly 
away. 

The  next  feat  exhibited,  excited  deep  interest.  A  large 
wooden  spear,  with  a  broad  iron  head,  was  placed  near  the 
door  of  the  toril  or  den,  and  inclining  upwards  towards  it.  A 
stout  mulatto,  gaily  dressed,  laid  flat  upon  the  end,  which  rested 
against  a  point  d'apjmi,  and  in  that  position  awaited  the  bull. 
The  trumpet  and  rocket  signal  was  given.  All  was  silent.  The 
door  opened,  and  the  bull  pitched  at  the  prostrate  mulatto,  who 
guided  his  spear  so  that  the  point  struck  him  full  between  the 
eyes,   and    passing    through   his   head,   entered    several    feet 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  289 

into  his  body,  from  which  it  required  the  force  of  three  men 
to  extract  it !  The  animal  fell  dead.  The  spectators  were  de- 
lighted, and  even  renewed  their  plaudits  when  the  mulatto 
held  out  his  cap  for  the  reward. 

A  fourth  bull  was  received  by  "  matadores  de  punta" — ma- 
tadores  armed  with  short,  broad-bladed  dirks,  resembling  in 
form  a  bricklayer's  trowel.  They  played  him  for  a  long  time; 
now  daring  his  attack,  now  avoiding  it.  Showers  of  darts 
were  thrown,  and  his  hide  bristled  with  them,  like  that  of  a 
porcupine.  The  paper  image  was  attacked,  and  wrought  him 
to  the  highest  pitch  of  fury  ;  he  ploughed  the  ground  with  his 
horns,  and  bellowed  in  an  agony  of  rage.  He  pursued  a  mata- 
dor, and  was  so  near  tossing  him,  that  he  ripped  up  the  back 
of  his  gaudy  jacket.  He  then  wheeled  upon  a  rejonead&r,  and 
plunged  his  horn  into  the  horse's  abdomen,  and  made  an  effort 
to  toss;  but  by  some  means  the  poor  animal  was  extricated. 
The  rider  struck  his  sides  with  his  spur,  and  the  entrails  gushed 
from  the  wound  !  A  second  blow  gave  an  awfully  hollow  sound, 
that  might  have  been  heard,  at  that  moment,  over  the  plaza, 
for  it  was  still  as  the  grave.  His  bowels  poured  out  upon  the 
ground,  and  were  trampled  by  his  own  hoofs,  as  he  sprang 
forward,  and  cleared  the  infuriate  bull,  whose  attention  the 
matadores  had  attracted  to  themselves  !  The  horse  was  led  out 
of  the  arena,  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  (poor  indeed  !)  to  learn 
that  his  pains  were  ended  in  a  half  hour  by  death  !  The  bull 
rushed  with  furious  impetuosity  upon  the  matadores,  yet  he 
did  not  escape  unscathed.  A  matador,  with  well  turned  limbs, 
threw  aside  his  hat  and  cloak,  and  advanced  deliberately  to  re- 
ceive his  attack.  The  broad  blade  of  the  "  punta"  glittered  in 
the  sun  for  the  instant,  while  the  swift  arm,  with  certain  aim, 
struck  it  to  the  spinal  marrow,  just  behind  the  ears.  Lightning 
could  not  have  been  more  suddenly  fatal ;  the  bull  dropped 
dead  !  "  Viva  Espinosa" — the  name  of  this  famed  matador, 
was  shouted  from  all  sides.  Neither  the  danger  he  had  encoun- 
tered, the  success  of  his  feat,  nor  the  deafening  plaudits  of  the 
multitude,  produced  the  slightest  change  in  the  calm  expression 
of  his  countenance — it  remained  the  same  under  every  circum- 
stance. He  gathered  his  cloak  upon  his  arm,  and  with  cap  in 
37 


290  THKEE  YEARS  IN  THE  TACIFIC. 

hand,  walked  leisurely  to  the  Prefect's  box,  for  the  reward  he 
had  so  dexterously  won. 

One  bull  was  encountered  by  six  short-legged  Indians,  who, 
armed  with  light  spears,  extended  themselves  on  the  ground, 
in  front  of  the  den,  to  await  his  coming.  He  hurled  his  huge 
weight  among  them,  splintered  several  spears,  and  overturned 
five  Indians,  in  pursuit  of  the  sixth.  The  excitement  was  very 
great,  for  it  was  doubtful  whether  he  would  escape.  Now  he 
gained  a  little,  and  then  he  lost ;  he  seemed  to  be  out  of  breath ; 
all  feared  that  he  would  fall ;  the  bull's  horns  appeared  to  be 
touching  his  back  !  "  Corre,  corre  muchacho  !"  broke  through 
the  silence  from  a  hundred  mouths,  and  thus  encouraged,  his 
duck  legs  moved  faster,  and  in  longer  strides,  till  at  last,  pant- 
ing and  breathless,  he  dodged  between  the  posts  in  the  centre 
of  the  ring.  By  this  time  his  companions  had  risen,  and,  armed 
again  with  spears,  placed  themselves  in  a  new  position,  to  re- 
ceive another  attack.  The  bull,  for  an  instant,  looked  wildly 
at  the  Indian  he  had  pursued,  bellowed  in  disappointment,  and 
turned  upon  his  expectant  enemies.  But  when  he  drew  near 
to  them,  they  threw  away  their  arms,  and  fled,  to  the  great 
amusement  of  every  body.  The  animal  attacked  every  one 
who  opposed  him,  in  quick  succession,  and  received  a  wound 
from  every  hand.  One  matador  attempted  the  feat  of  Espinosa, 
but  missing  his  aim,  the  "punta"  was  tossed  high  in  the  air, 
and  both  man  and  beast  escaped  unhurt.  From  long  exertion 
and  loss  of  blood,  the  animal  seemed  to  be  exhausted,  yet  he 
could  not  be  approached  with  impunity.  He  stood  pawing  the 
ground  and  flirting  his  tail,  but  would  not,  any  longer,  attack 
with  fury  ;  therefore,  he  afforded  no  more  sport.  The  Luna — 
a  crescentic  knife  fixed  at  right  angles  on  the  end  of  a  long 
pole — was  brought.  They  tried  for  a  long  time  to  get  behind 
him,  before  they  succeeded  in  hamstringing  his  hind  legs — 
when  they  did,  the  poor  brute  still  fought,  and  kept  them  at 
bay,  and  even  when  the  sinews  of  his  fore  legs  were  cut  with 
the  luna,  he  attacked  the  mataddres  on  his  stumps.  He  at  last 
fell,  under  the  repeated  blows  of  the  dirk  and  sword  of  the  ma- 
tadores, and  was  slowly  expiring,  when  one  of  the  many  blows 
reached  the  spine,  and  ended  his  torments. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  291 

The  next  exhibition  was  rather  ludicrous.  When  the  door 
was  opened,  a  harlequin  attired  negro,  with  his  face  smeared 
with  blue  and  white,  entered  the  arena  mounted  on  a  bull's 
back.  His  only  means  of  retaining  his  scat  was  by  holding  fast 
to  a  piece  of  wood  lashed  across  his  horns.  His  task  was  an 
arduous  one,  for  the  bull  reared  and  plunged  in  every  possible 
manner,  to  free  himself  from  his  encumbrance;  but  the  rider 
was  encouraged  to  hold  fast,  as  the  bull  was  his  reward,  if  he 
succeeded  in  safely  reaching  the  middle  of  the  ring.  This  scene 
afforded  a  great  deal  of  mirth,  and  the  negro  won  the  bull,  after 
several  very  narrow  escapes  from  being  thrown. 

The  parting  rays  of  the  setting  sun  had  begun  to  tinge  the 
snowy  peaks  of  the  Cordillera,  which  seemed  the  signal  for 
leaving.  The  president  and  suite  left  their  box,  and  the  fash- 
ionables in  different  parts  of  the  circle  followed  his  example. 

A  guard  of  about  fifty  horsemen,  armed  with  sabres  and 
lances,  was  formed  round  the  president's  carriage,  and  a  num- 
ber of  officers  crowded  to  attend  him  from  the  door  of  the 
plaza.  The  carriage  was  of  European  manufacture,  with  silver 
mountings,  and  drawn  by  four  splendid  black  horses.  General 
Gamarra  soon  made  his  appearance,  hat  in  hand.  He  is  tall, 
rather  thin,  of  a  swarthy  complexion,  black  eyes,  deeply  sunk 
in  their  sockets,  heavy  brow,  black  whiskers  and  mustaches, 
and  possesses  a  courteous  military  air.  He  wore  a  general's  uni- 
form of  blue  deeply  embroidered  in  gold,  and  red  pantaloons 
with  broad  gold  lace  down  the  outer  seams.  Over  his  feet 
were  drawn  horseman's  boots  rising  above  the  knee,  armed 
with  large  gold  spurs.  His  cocked  hat  was  edged  with  white 
feathers  and  crowned  with  three  ostrich  plumes,  arranged  in 
the  succession  of  the  colors  in  the  flag — white  between  red. 
When  he  mounted  his  seat,  the  officers  threw  themselves  into 
their  saddles,  and  the  coach  flew  through  the  alameda  followed 
by  the  guard  at  full  gallop,  the  pennons  of  their  lances  flutter- 
ing in  the  air.  Their  dress  is  a  white  jacket  and  red  panta- 
loons, cut  full  about  the  hips  and  narrow  at  the  bottom.  The 
cap  is  blue  cloth,  with  a  long  bag-like  top  of  red  terminating 
in  a  tassel,  that  hangs  over  one  side.  Every  one  wore  large 
mustaches. 


292  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

As  the  president  passed,  the  calesas  that  had  been  standing 
to  view  the  passing  concourse  turned,  and  slowly  followed  to- 
wards the  city.  Seated  along  the  walls  were  long  files  of  ta- 
padas, 

"  Skilled  in  the  ogle  of  a  roguish  eye, 
Yet  ever  well  inclined  to  heal  the  wound  ; 
None  through  their  cold  disdain  are  doomed  to  die, 
As  moon-struck  bards  complain,  by  Love's  sad  archery — " 

They  lingered  to  see  the  last  of  the  crowd.  When  we  reached 
the  Independence  square  or  plaza,  the  fresco  tables  were  al- 
ready lighted. 

The  excitement  of  the  scenes  at  the  Plaza  del  Acho  and 
along  the  alameda,  produced  in  me  and  some  of  our  party 
most  severe  headachs.  Notwithstanding  the  cruelty  of  the 
sport,  there  is  an  agreeable  excitement  at  the  bull-bait,  from 
the  great  concourse  of  people,  and  the  endless  variety  of  dress 
and  character  that  present  themselves  for  observation.  In- 
deed the  ladies  say,  that  were  it  not  for  the  "  concurrencia," 
they  would  not  witness  a  diversion  "tan  barbara." 

Previous  to  the  revolution,  bull-baits  were  seen  in  almost 
every  village  throughout  Peru,  at  least  once  every  year.  For 
the  purpose,  the  plaza  was  fitted  up  for  the  exhibition.  This 
sport  caused  the  death  of  many  Indians  in  the  interior,  who 
were  either  killed  by  the  bulls,  or  died  from  excesses  in  Aguar- 
diente and  Chicha. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  293 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Nacimie'ntos — Christmas  Eve — Christmas — Ride  to  Chorillos — Saltead6res — 
Bathing — Harbor  of  Chorillos — Callao — La  Presidenta — Carnival — Mira- 
flores — Magdalena. 

About  the  season  of  Christmas,  those  wealthy  families  in 
which  there  are  children,  form  with  dolls  and  toys  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  birth  of  our  Saviour,  which  is  placed  in  some 
convenient  apartment,  where  it  may  be  visited  by  their  friends. 
These  are  termed  familiarly,  "  nacimientos"  or  births.  Some- 
times mass  and  prayers  are  said  before  them ;  and  one  of  the 
common  pastimes  of  the  season  is  to  pay  visits  from  one  to  the 
other,  all  over  the  city.  This  has  at  least  the  merit  of  being  a 
beautiful  method  of  instructing  the  youth  in  that  portion  of  the 
history  of  the  son  of  God. 

On  Christmas  eve,  or  "noche  buena,"  as  on  almost  all  holy- 
days,  the  plaza  becomes  a  scene  of  mirth  and  amusement. 
The  fresco  tables  are  more  numerous,  as  well  as  the  fires  of 
the  women  frying  fritters  and  fish  ;  and  the  irons  of  those  who 
make  barquillos  are  plied  more  actively  than  ever.  Stalls 
are  placed  along  the  Portal  de  Escribanos,  loaded  with  a  va- 
riety of  cooked  poultry,  picdntes,  stews,  sausages,  and  pu- 
cheros.  All  classes  make  merry ;  the  mendicant  and  miser, 
the  formal  lady  and  woman  of  light  manners,  the  old  and  the 
young,  allow  their  bosoms  to  expand  with  joy ;  yet  the  pious 
stand  aloof  from  all  that  tempts  the  appetite  in  the  plaza,  till 
past  midnight,  indulging  only  in  ices  and  iced  drinks.  Lights 
were  twinkling  in  every  direction,  though  the  moon  and  stars 
shone  as  bright  as  day. 

The  great  altar  of  the  cathedral  was  lighted  with  hundreds 
of  candles,  and  the  choir  was  full  of  instruments  and  voices. 
The  naves  were  crowded  through  the  whole  night  with  wo- 
men sitting  or  kneeling  on  the  pavement  in  saya  y  manto, 
while  the  priests  celebrated  mass  decorated  in  cloaks  of  gold 


294  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  silver  Lama.  At  midnight,  Te  Deum  laudamtis  was 
chanted,  the  hells  rang  a  merry  peal,  and  rockets  were  fired 
from  the  church  steps.  At  this  signal,  numerous  parties  and 
groups  that  had  been  wandering  about  the  square,  anxiously- 
waiting  the  hour  to  hreak  their  fast,  seated  themselves  at  dif- 
ferent tables,  and  fell  to  work  on  the  good  things  that  had  been 
spread  before  them  during  the  evening.  From  that  time  till 
daylight,  for  the  saying  is,  "  nadie  duerma  en  noche  buena" 
— nobody  may  sleep  on  Christmas  eve — the  plaza  is  a  scene 
of  feasting;  while  in  the  houses  of  the  higher  classes,  suppers 
are  spread  at  twelve  o'clock,  and  the  remainder  of  the  night 
is  spent  in  dancing  and  gambling. 

Christmas  day  is  devoted  to  amusement,  and  as  it  is  sum- 
mer, many  parties  are  made  for  rides  to  the  country,  and  some 
spend  the  whole  holy-days  at  Miraflores  or  Chorillos.  The 
alamcda  in  the  afternoon  is  thronged  with  people,  and  in  the 
morning  presents  a  scene  similar  to  that  of  a  Sunday.  At 
night  there  is  an  exhibition  of  fireworks,  provided  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  cabildo. 

During  the  summer  months,  from  December  to  April  in- 
clusive, many  paseos  or  excursions  of  pleasure  are  made  to 
different  points  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  city.  Most  of  the 
wealthy  families  resort  to  Chorillos  or  Callao  for  the  benefit  of 
sea  bathing.  Those  gentlemen  who  are  detained  in  the  city 
by  business  during  the  week,  generally  leave  Lima  on  Satur- 
day afternoon,  and  remain  with  their  families  until  Monday 
morning. 

In  the  month  of  January,  I  accompanied  a  party  of  gentle- 
men to  Chorillos,  and  passed  several  days  in  that  place.  We 
set  off  about  three  o'clock  on  Saturday  afternoon,  arrayed  in 
ponchos,  and  large  straw  hats  to  protect  us  from  the  sun,  and 
armed  with  pistols  to  secure  us  against  the  "  saltead&res,"  or 
highwaymen,  that  at  this  season  generally  infest  the  road. 
They  have  been  less  numerous,  however,  during  the  last  two 
years,  than  formerly.  These  salteadores  are  a  most  ungenerous 
set  of  thieves;  for,  not  satisfied  with  horse,  purse,  and  valuables, 
they  generally  leave  their  victims  without  any  other  covering 
for  their  skins  than  their  shirts  !    I  know,  however,  of  an  in- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  295 

stance  of  generosity  on  the  part  of  one  gentleman  of  the  pro- 
fession. He  stopped  a  wealthy  merchant  on  his  way  to  Lima 
from  Chorillos,  and  after  relieving  him  of  his  watch  and  purse, 
ordered  him  to  dismount.  The  merchant  remonstrated,  and 
argued  that  it  would  be  a  serious  prejudice  to  his  business  to 
be  detained  from  Lima,  but  offered  to  deliver  the  horse  the 
next  day,  without  asking  questions,  to  any  person  who  might 
be  sent  for  him.  The  terms  were  accepted,  and  the  merchant 
was  permitted  to  continue  his  journey.  The  next  morning  the 
salteador  called  for  his  horse,  which  was  honorably  delivered  ! 
It  must  be  recollected,  that  a  departure  from  the  terms  of  the 
bargain  would  have  been  at  the  peril  of  life,  in  case  of  a  second 
rencontre. 

We  sallied  out  at  the  Chorillos  gate,  upon  a  straight  road, 
flanked  on  either  side  by  high  mud  walls,  which  from  the 
powerful  reflection  render  the  road  excessively  hot.  The 
light  color  of  the  road,  well  sprinkled  with  pebbles,  served  to 
increase  the  oppressiveness  of  the  heat.  We  found  every  body 
going  in  the  same  direction  with  ourselves.  Here  we  over- 
took troops  of  borricos,  laden  with  fruit  and  vegetables  for  the 
Chorillos  market,  there  carts  laden  with  beds  and  household 
furniture  of  some  migrating  family ;  again,  parties  of  gentlemen 
dressed  like  ourselves,  and  now  we  came  up  with  two  or  three 
jackasses  that  had  trotted  on  ahead  of  their  companions,  lying 
down  by  the  way  under  baskets  of  fruit,  waiting  with  serious 
and  dejected  countenances  for  the  rest  of  the  drove.  Now 
and  then  we  passed  a  party  of  gallin&zos  and  dogs,  feasting 
amicably  on  the  carcass  of  a  borrico  or  mule  that  had  expired 
by  the  wayside. 

The  surrounding  country  was  parched  and  cheerless,  with 
here  and  there  one  of  those  vast  earthen  mounds  called  huacas, 
the  remaining  monuments  of  a  race  even  more  ancient  than 
the  children  of  the  sun. 

After  a  ride  of  five  miles,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  fane  of 
Miraflores,  and  another  mile  carried  us  beyond  that  quiet  vil- 
lage. Along  the  tapias,  as  the  low  mud  walls  are  called,  were 
seated  rows  of  ladies  with  their  servants,  amusing  themselves 
with  observing  the  passing  groups.    They  wore  Manila  hats, 


296  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

tied  under  the  chin  with  black  ribbon,  the  rim  being  free,  and 
the  hair  braided  down  the  back.  Amongst  them  were  some 
acquainted  with  gentlemen  of  our  party,  whom  they  saluted 
with,  "adios!  adios !  Caballeros." 

We  had  scarcely  cleared  Miraflores,  when  we  saw  the  low 
houses  of  Chorillos  about  two  miles  off,  nestling  under  the 
Morro  Solar  or  headland  of  Chorillos,  and  the  broad  Pacific 
expanding  to  the  view.  It  was  now  near  sunset;  the  mild 
breeze  from  the  ocean  kissed  our  heated  foreheads  as  we  gal- 
loped into  the  pueblo.  We  met  parties  of  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, strolling  about  in  every  direction,  to  enjoy  the  cool  air  of 
the  expiring  day. 

After  ablution  in  cold  water,  we  seated  ourselves,  and  like 
Sancho  Panza  were  felicitating  ourselves  in  not  having  en- 
countered any  perils  on  the  road,  when  a  gentleman  came  in, 
with  half  serious  face,  and  began  with,  "  Malditos  sean  los  de 
la  policia  que  no  limpian  el  camino  de  esos  bribones  de  saltca- 
dorcs!" — "Curse  those  police  officers,  for  not  clearing  the 
road  of  these  villainous  highwaymen  !" 

"  Que  hai !  que  hai !  Don  Ignacio?" — "What  is  the  matter, 
what  is  the  matter,  Don  Ignacio?"  asked  two  or  three  of  the 
party. 

"  Puez,  Seiiores,  me  pillaron  dos  de  estos  caballeros  en  la 
mitid  del  camino,  de  aqui  &  Miraflores,  y  si  no  fuera  por  la 
oscuridad  de  la  noche  me  hubieran  descubierto  la  desnudez  a 
todo  el  mundo  !" — "  Yes,  Gentlemen,  two  of  those  cavaliers 
caught  me  on  the  road,  half  way  between  here  and  Miraflores, 
and  had  it  not  been  for  the  obscurity  of  the  night,  would  have 
exposed  me  naked  to  the  whole  world  !" 

"  Que  dices  ?" — "  What  sayest  thou  ?" 

"  Puez,  Sefiores,  es  verdad,  me  dejaron  fresco  en  cueros — 
aun  sin  un  hilo  de  mi  camisa!" — "It  is  true,  they  left  me 
cool  in  my  skin — without  even  a  thread  of  my  shirt  1" 

"  Caramba  !"  exclaimed  one  of  the  ladies. 

"Jesus!"  cried  another — Peruvian  ladies  ejaculate  ! 

"Que  oigo,  por  Dios!" — "What  do  1  hear,  for  God's 
sake  !"  said  a  third. 

"Clua!  que  lisos!" — "What  impertinence!"  said  a  fourth. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  297 

"Que  fresquito  vino  usted  a  Chorillos!" — "  You  came  a 
little  fresh  to  Chorillos!"  observed  a  gay  young  lady,  and  the 
gentlemen  laughed  outright.  Finding  so  little  sympathy 
among  us,  Don  Ignacio  stalked  out  of  the  r<  o  ,  muttering,  be- 
tween his  teeth,  vengeance  on  all  salteadores,  wishing  that  the 
devil  might  warm  them  all,  and  the  police  in  the  bargain. 

The  evenings  in  Chorillos  are  passed  at  tertulias,  where 
gambling  high  at  monte-dao,  and  dancing,  are  the  only  amuse- 
ments.    All  Sunday  is  passed  in  this  unhallowed  manner! 

The  ladies  bathe  twice  and  three  times  every  day,  in  the 
sea;  in  the  morning  before  breakfast,  about  one  o'clock,  and 
again  at  sunset.  They  descend  the  high  and  precipitous  hill 
on  horseback,  or  on  foot,  and  dress  in  little  huts  made  of  flag 
mats,  kept  on  the  shore  for  the  purpose  by  Indians,  who  charge 
a  real  for  each  bath.  They  wear  long  flannel  robes,  and  go 
into  the  water  with  Indians,  who  are  entirely  naked,  with  the 
exception  of  a  handkerchief  tied  about  the  hips.  Many  of 
the  ladies  are  quite  expert  swimmers,  and  all  are  passionately 
fond  of  sea-bathing:. 

Chorillos,  in  one  respect  at  least,  is  superior  to  any  of  the 
watering  places  that  I  am  acquainted  with,  resorted  to  in  our 
country;  all  formality  is  thrown  aside,  and  every  body  thinks 
only  of  comfort  and  amusement.  The  ladies  stroll  about  with 
their  hair  hanging  down  the  back,  with  grass  hats,  and  the 
gentlemen  are  dressed  with  short  white  jackets,  and  are  not 
encumbered  with  cravats,  but  substitute  a  narrow  black  ribbon. 
Nothing  but  dissipation  and  gambling  occupy  the  time,  except 
the  few  moments  devoted  every  morning  to  counting  the  ro- 
sary. On  Sundays,  the  pueblo  is  more  lively  than  on  any  other 
day,  from  the  great  concourse  from  the  city  ;  and  it  is  then  only 
that  ladies  pay  attention  to  the  toilet,  to  appear  at  the  balls  or 
large  tertulias  given  at  night. 

It  is  a  remarkable  fact,  that  even  during  the  winter,  when 
Lima  is  covered  with  a  dense  fog  and  "garua,"  or  fine  drizzle, 
and  the  streets  slippery  with  mud,  the  sun  is  shining  warm 
and  clear  at  Chorillos.  It  is  probably  owing  to  the  south-west 
winds  blowing  the  vapors  past  the  Morro  Solar  against  the  high 
hills,  where  they  collect  and  form  clouds,  which  undergo  a 
38 


29S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

leakage  over  the  city  instead  of  dissolving  in  rain.  This  is 
probahly  an  electrical  phenomenon,  which  is  not  yet  well  un- 
derstood. The  same  fact  occurs  occasionally  at  Callao,  though 
the  distance  of  either  place  from  Lima  does  not  exceed  eight 
miles. 

During  the  war  of  the  revolution,  while  Rodil  occupied  the 
castles  of  Callao,  Chorillos,  though  only  a  small  Indian  town, 
with  some  few  indifferently  built  houses,  which  are  termed 
ranchos  and  "  barr&cas,"  was  the  port  of  Lima.  The  harbor  is 
a  roadstead,  only  protected  by  the  Morro  Solar :  a  heavy  swell 
is  constantly  roiling  in  from  the  southward,  the  anchorage  is 
not  good,  the  landing  is  bad,  and  vessels  ride  very  uneasily  at 
their  moorings. 

I  spent  the  month  of  February  at  Callao.  The  place  was 
probably  more  gay  than  usual,  in  consequence  of  the  president 
and  his  lady  being  there  to  take  advantage  of  the  sea-baths. 
The  tertulias  were  similar  to  those  at  Chorillos,  though  not  so 
numerously  attended,  for  neither  General  Gamarra  nor  his  lady 
is  very  popular.  They  were  attended,  of  course,  by  a  set  who 
are  more  or  less  dependent  on  their  pleasure  for  office. 

The  presidenta,  as  she  is  titled,  is  rather  a  large  and  fine 
looking  woman,  but  of  too  much  embonpoint  for  beauty.  She 
has  a  high,  expanded  forehead,  and  an  intelligent  face.  Her 
manners  are  masculine,  and  far  from  graceful.  Her  accom- 
plishments are  those  of  a  man.  She  shoots  a  pistol  with  great 
accuracy  of  aim,  wields  the  broadsword  with  much  dexterity, 
and  is  a  bold,  undaunted  rider  on  horseback.  Her  chief  amuse- 
ment at  the  tertfilias  is  playing  chess.  She  never  dances.  She 
is  a  native  of  Cuzco,  and  daughter  of  a  Patriot  general,  and  it 
may  be  said,  that  she  was  literally  educated  in  the  camp.  She 
is  now  about  thirty  years  of  age,  and  is  said  to  be  rather  a  shrew 
in  disposition,  and  pays  great  attention  to  politics;  indeed, 
some  affirm,  that  General  Gamarra  is  indebted  to  her  talents 
for  retaining  the  presidency  so  long  as  he  has. 

Pic-nic  parties  are  sometimes  formed  on  the  point  beyond 
the  castles,  but  the  place  is  entirely  without  the  shelter  of 
trees.  The  chief  attraction  to  that  quarter  is  the  line  situation 
for  bathing. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  299 

On  the  seventeenth  day  of  February  1833,  commenced  the 
merry  season  of  carnival.  The  sports  consist  in  dashing  scented 
water  on  each  other,  amongst  those  of  the  better  class,  but 
with  the  others,  whole  buckets  full  are  thrown,  and  when  the 
person  is  well  wet,  the  face  is  smeared  over  with  flour,  some- 
times colored  with  indigo. 

I  passed  part  of  the  month  of  April  at  Miraflores,  amusing 
myself  with  rides  round  the  country,  and  feasting  on  delicious 
grapes.  All  the  houses  have  gardens  attached  to  them,  where 
are  grown  great  varieties  of  beautiful  flowers.  A  geranium 
grows  to  a  large  bush,  and  is  looked  upon  almost  as  a  weed. 
Amongst  the  bulbs,  which  are  numerous,  are  the  margarita,  a 
white  flower,  the  amancaes,  which  is  yellow,  and  the  flor  de 
la  pila.  This  takes  its  name  from  its  resemblance  to  a  fountain. 
The  flower  is  beautifully  white,  and  the  monopetalous  corolla 
has  six  long  slender  digits,  which  fall  in  gentle  curves  from 
its  edge,  like  so  many  little  streams  of  water.  It  springs  up 
on  the  margins  of  drains  and  ditches,  all  along  the  Peruvian 
coast. 

The  ladies  in  Miraflores  pass  two  or  three  hours  of  Saturday 
afternoon  seated  on  the  tapias  along  the  Chorillos  road,  ob- 
serving the  passing  concourse.  One  half  of  "  pascua"  or  lent 
expired  on  the  28th  of  April  1S32.  This  day  is  celebrated 
amongst  the  rabble  by  feasting  and  dancing.  Parties  with 
guitars  and  harps  pass  through  the  streets  at  night,  visiting 
the  best  houses,  dancing  and  singing,  till  bribed  by  a  gra- 
tuity to  leave.  At  midnight,  a  grotesque  mask,  representing 
an  old  woman,  leaves  Lima  mounted  on  a  borrico,  accompa- 
nied by  a  crowd  of  negroes  and  boys,  shouting  and  singing  and 
ringing  bells.  The  party  or  procession  stops  long  enough  in 
Miraflores  to  waken  the  population,  and  then  continues  on  to 
Chorillos,  where  the  old  woman  is  met  and  kindl}'-  received 
by  an  old  man,  quite  as  grotesquely  dressed  as  the  old  lady 
herself.  The  two  open  the  dance  in  a  lascivious  minuet,  and 
then  the  frolic  is  continued  till  daylight.  This  feast  is  termed 
La  vieja,  or  old  woman.  She  is  quite  as  much  feared  by  the 
children  as  old  Chriskingle  himself,  for  the  old  people  are  wont 
to  say,  that  La  vieja  is  coming  at  four  in  the  morning  to  carry 


300  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

off  the  pascua,  and  if  they  are  nof  good  boys  and  girls,  she  will 
take  them  away  too.  The  only  explanation  of  the  festival  that 
I  could  obtain  from  the  curate  was,  "es  solamente  para  acor- 
darse,  de  las  muchas  pascuas  que  ban  pasado" — "It  is  only  to 
call  to  remembrance  the  many  lents  that  have  passed." 

There  is  a  pleasant  road  from  Miraflores  to  Callao,  passing 
through  a  small  village  called  Magdalena.  This  place,  which 
has  many  gardens  attached  to  it,  is  resorted  to  by  some  of  the 
better  and  quieter  part  of  society.  The  Liberator,  Bolivar,  occu- 
pied a  house  there  for  some  weeks,  while  in  Peru  ;  it  is  a  more 
pleasant  summer  retreat  than  either  Miraflores  or  Chorillos. 
The  road  passes  amidst  small  cultivated  farms,  and  is  shaded 
in  the  afternoon  by  the  walls  that  surround  them. 

Another  frequent  paseo  is  to  Lurin,  in  the  valley  of  Pacha- 
camac,  where  there  are  extensive  remains  of  the  temple  of 
that  god. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

St.  John's  day — Amancaes. 


Amongst  the  great  holy-days  of  Lima  is  the  festival  in  ho- 
nor of  St.  John.  It  falls  on  the  24th  of  June,  when  a  beau- 
tiful yellow  flower,  called  the  amancaes  [Narcissus  amancaes) 
is  in  full  bloom,  which  circumstance  has  given  name  to  the 
day.  About  three  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  city  is  a  high 
hill,  forming  with  two  others  a  deep  vale  or  gorge,  whicb, 
from  the  number  of  these  flowers  growing  on  its  sides,  is  called 
the  valley  of  the  amancaes. 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  all  the  world,  in  every  variety  of 
costume  and  equipage,  began  to  move  over  the  bridge,  through 
the  suburb  of  San  Lazaro  and  the  Alameda  de  loa  DeiOilsos, 
towards  Amancaes.    Passing  from  the  alameda,  the  road  is  shut 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  301 

in  by  high  mud  walls,  enclosing  fruit  and  flower  gardens, 
which  fill  the  soft  air  with  their  odors.  Here  moved  cale- 
sas,  filled  with  ladies  and  children  gaily  dressed,  and  their 
heads  decked  with  amancaes  and  dahlias;  ladies  on  horseback, 
managing  their  spirited  animals  in  a  most  masterly  style;  ca- 
valiers and  officers  in  gay  dress  and  gorgeous  uniforms;  ne- 
gresses  in  jaunty  calico  gowns,  mounted  on  donkeys ;  negroes 
on  foot,  or  mounted  on  sorry  asses  or  mules,  all  crowding  to 
the  scene  of  festivity.  The  whole  living  stream  was  animated 
by  the  mutual  smiles  and  salutations  of  the  dames  and  cava- 
liers, the  hearty  laugh  of  the  less  refined,  and  the  coarse  joke 
and  noisy  hilarity  of  the  plebeian  mob.  When  we  reached  the 
vale,  we  found  the  soil  bare,  save  where  the  hill  sides  were 
sprinkled  with  yellow  patches  of  the  amancaes.  Booths  were 
erected  of  mats  in  different  parts  of  the  vale,  and  surrounded 
by  various  groups,  enjoying  themselves  in  dancing  and  singing 
to  the  sound  of  harps  and  guitars.  Some  of  the  ladies  on  horse- 
back, moving  from  rancho  to  rancho,  attracted  our  attention ; 
they  wore  the  Manila  hat,  white  pantalets,  and  poncho,  as  have 
already  been  described.  They  seemed  to  delight  in  their  skill 
in  horsemanship,  for  a  practised  eye  might  detect  them  rein- 
ing in  their  animals,  while  at  the  same  time  the  spur  was 
pressed  quietly  into  their  sides,  causing  them  to  prance  and 
curvet  over  the  ground.  The  cavaliers  were  no  less  dexterous 
in  the  management  of  their  steeds,  as  they  squired  the  ladies 
with  "  heedful  haste,"  and  assisted  them  to  the  various  refresh- 
ments offered  at  the  ranchos. 

In  one  rancho  were  two  Africans,  dancing  the  "sama  cueca" 
to  the  music  of  a  rude  harp,  accompanied  by  the  nasal  voices 
of  two  negresses  jauntily  dressed,  and  the  hair  frizzed  out  and 
ornamented  with  flowers.  One  was  seated  on  the  ground, 
beating  on  the  body  of  the  instrument  in  time  with  her  palms. 
The  dancer  was  dressed  in  white,  flounced  to  the  knee,  with 
a  bright  colored  cotton  shawl  tied  round  the  hips,  so  as  to 
shorten  the  gown  very  considerably.  The  arms  were  bare  and 
shining  in  pure  black;  in  one  hand  she  held  a  white  handker- 
chief, which  was  ever  and  anon  flourished  in  the  air,  while 
the  other  sustained  her  dress  behind.    Her  hair,  like  that  of 


302  THREE  YEARS  IN  TTIE   PACIFIC. 

all  the  negresses,  was  frizzed  out  at  each  side,  and  sprinkled 
wilh  jasmine  and  amancaes,  and  a  high  crowned  Guayaquil  hat 
sat  square  on  the  head.  Her  companion  in  the  dance  wore  full 
bottomed  cinnamon  color  breeches,  open  at  the  knee,  with 
silver  buttons,  over  while  stockings  and  drawers,  seen  at  the 
opening  embroidered  in  a  gay  pattern,  a  white  jacket,  so  short 
as  to  show  his  shirt  between  its  bottom  and  the  waistband  of 
his  bragas.  He  wore  also  a  high  crowned  Guayaquil  hat.  He 
was  rather  advanced  in  years,  his  skin  was  black  as  ebony, 
and  his  face  was  rather  thin.  Both  were  smoking  and  shining 
in  the  true  African  gloss.  The  figure  consisted  in  advancing 
and  retreating  from  each  other,  in  a  short  shuffle  in  time  to  the 
music,  and  occasionally  performing  some  most  lascivious  move- 
ments, to  the  great  gratification  of  the  lookers  on. 

While  these  were  dancing,  those  standing  round  were  drink- 
ing pisco,  and  talking  and  laughing  in  the  gayest  manner. 

There  are  two  other  dances  of  a  similar  character,  called  el 
chocolate  and  el  zapateo,  only  differing  in  the  accompanying 
song.  Though  lascivious  and  vulgar  in  the  eyes  of  Europeans, 
these  dances  are  performed,  (with  some  modification,  how- 
ever,) at  the  public  balls  and  tertiilias.  Manners  and  vulgarity 
are  conventional  in  every  country,  and  those  of  one  should  not 
be  set  up  as  the  criteria  of  those  of  another  ;  a  Frenchman  will 
pick  his  teeth  with  his  fork,  and  wipe  his  lips  on  the  table 
cloth,  which  with  us  is  considered  a  departure  from  good 
breeding.  We  should  not,  therefore,  condemn  any  customs, 
however  revolting,  unless  we  find  them  intrinsically  immoral, 
whatever  may  be  our  opinion  of  correct  taste  in  these  matters. 

Towards  sunset,  the  crowd  began  to  move  towards  the  city. 
The  hilarity  was  increased,  and  many  were  sufficiently  ine- 
briated to  be  thrown  from  their  animals,  with  great  sangfroid 
passing  all  off  as  a  joke.  The  serious  cast  of  countenance  pre- 
served by  the  ladies  and  cavaliers,  was  curiously  contrasted 
with  the  boisterous  mirth  of  the  vulgar  mob,  as  the  whole  re- 
turned towards  the  city  loaded  with  bouquets  of  the  amancaes. 

Amancaes  is  not  only  visited  on  the  day  of  St.  John.  During 
the  whole  season,  from  St.  John's  day  till  the  close  of  Septem- 
ber, in  which  the  flowers  are  in  bloom,  the  valley  is  resorted 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  303 

to  every  Monday  by  a  large  number  of  people,  when  similar 
amusements  are  offered  as  on  the  holy  festival,  though  the 
scene  is  not  so  extensive  nor  so  joyous. 

The  feast  of  St.  John  is  variously  celebrated  in  various  coun- 
tries.  In  Northumberland,  Scotland,  Wales,  and  Ireland,  the 
festival  is  celebrated  with  bonfires  by  the  young  people.  Not 
many  years  ago,  there  was  a  stone  pulpit  in  the  University  of 
Oxford,  from  which  an  annual  sermon  was  preached  ;  and  to 
make  it  resemble  the  preaching  of  St.  John  in  the  wilderness, 
it  was  fenced  round  with  green  boughs.  Googe  has  described 
the  whole  custom  in  the  following  verses: — 

"  Then  doth  the  joyfull  feast  of  John 

the  Baptist  lake  his  turn, 
When  bonjiers  great,  with  loftie  flame, 

in  every  towne  doe  burne  ; 
And  young  men  round  about  with  maides, 

doe  dance  in  every  streete, 
With  garlands  wrought  of  motherwort, 

or  else  with  vervain  sweete, 
And  many  other  flowers  faire, 

with  violets  in  their  handes, 
Whereas  they  all  do  fondly  thinke, 

that  whosoever  standes, 
And  thorow  the  flowers  beJiolds  the  flame, 

his  eyes  shall  feel  no  paine. 
When  thus  till  night  they  danced  have, 

they  through  the  fire  amaine, 
With  striving  mindes  doe  runne,  and  all 

their  hearbes  they  cast  therein, 
And  then  with  words  devout  and  prayers 

they  solomnly  begin, 
Desiring  God  that  all  their  ills 

may  there  consumed  bee  ; 
Whereby  they  thinke  through  all  that  yeare 

from  agues  to  be  free. 
Some  others  get  a  rotten  Wheele, 

all  worne  and  cast  aside, 
Which  covered  round  about  with  strawe 

and  tow,  they  closely  hide  : 
And  caryed  to  some  mountaines  top, 

being  all  with  fire  light, 
They  hurle  it  downe  with  violence, 

when  dark  appears  the  night : 


304  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Jicsembling  mtich  the  sunne,  that  from 

the  Heavens  downe  should  fal, 
A  strange  and  monstrous  sight  it  seemes, 

and  fearefull  to  tliem  all : 
Hut  they  suppose  their  mischiefes  all 

are  likewise  tbrowne  to  hell, 
And  from  harmes  and  daungers  now, 

in  saftie  here  they  dwell."* 

Young  women  were  in  the  habit,  and  still  are,  of  "trying 
their  fortunes,"  on  mid-summer's  eve,  and  by  superstitious 
processes  summoned  to  their  presence  the  shades  of  their  fu- 
ture husbands.  Gay,  in  one  of  his  pastorals,  alludes  to  this 
custom. 

11  At  eve  last  mid-summer  no  sleep  I  sought, 
But  to  the  field  a  bag  of  hemp-seed  brought ; 
I  scattered  round  the  seed  on  every  side, 
And  three  times  in  a  trembling  accent  cried : — 
•  This  hemp-seed  with  my  virgin  hand  I  sow, 
Who  shall  my  true  love  be,  the  crop  shall  mow.' 
I  straight  looked  back,  and  if  my  eyes  speak  truth, 
With  his  keen  scythe  behind  me  came  the  youth." 

The  following  translation  of  a  ballad,  sung  by  the  maidens 
on  the  Guadalquivir,  when  they  go  forth  to  gather  flowers  on 
the  morning  of  St.  John,  describes  the  custom  observed  in 
Spain. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  my  maidens,  'tis  the  eve  of  good  St.  John, 
It  is  the  Baptist's  morning  that  breaks  the  hills  upon  : 
And  let  us  all  go  forth  together,  while  the  blessed  day  is  new, 
To  dress  with  flowers  the  snow-white  wether,  ere  the  sun  has  dried  the  dew. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  &c. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  my  maidens,  the  hedgerows  all  are  green ; 
And  the  little  birds  are  singing  the  opening  leaves  between  ; 
And  let  us  all  go  forth  together,  to  gather  trefoil  by  the  stream, 
E'er  the  face  of  Guadalquiver  glows  beneath  the  strengthening  beam. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  &c. 


•  Every  Day  Book,  p.  846. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  305 

Come  forth,  come  Forth,  my  maidens,  and  slumber  not  away 
The  blessed,  blessed  morning  of  St.  John  the  Baptist's  day  ; 
There's  trefoil  on  the  meadows,  and  lilies  on  the  lea, 
And  hawthorn  blossoms  on  the  bush,  which  you  must  pluck  with  me. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  &c. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  my  maidens,  the  air  is  calm  and  cool, 
And  the  violet  blue  far  down  ye'll  view,  reflected  in  the  pool ; 
The  violets  and  the  roses,  and  the  jasmines  all  together, 
We'll  bind  in  garlands  on  the  brow  of  the  strong  and  lovely  wether. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  &c. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  my  maidens,  we'll  gather  myrtle  boughs, 
And  we  all  shall  learn,  from  the  dews  of  the  fern,  if  our  lads  will  keep 

their  vows  : 
If  the  wether  be  still,  as  we  dance  on  the  hill,  and  the  dew  hangs  sweet 

on  the  flowers, 
Then  we'll  kiss  off  the  dew,  for  our  lovers  are  true,  and  the  Baptist's 

blessing  is  ours. 

Come  forth,  come  forth,  my  maidens,  'tis  the  eve  of  good  St.  John, 

It  is  the  Baptist's  morning  that  breaks  the  hills  upon  ; 

And  let  us  all  go  forth  together,  while  the  blessed  day  is  new, 

To  dress  with  flowers  the  snow-white  wether,  ere  the  sun  has  dried  the  dew.* 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Dia  de  Santa  Rosa — Birth-day  customs — Life  of  Santa  Rosa. 

The  30th  of  August  is  kept  as  a  festival  of  the  first  order  in 
Lima,  in  honor  of  Santa  Rosa,  the  patroness  of  the  Indies.  At 
the  corners  of  the  plaza  were  erected  temporary  altars  of  saints, 
dressed  gayly  and  richly ;  and  from  the  balconies  in  the  streets 
through  which  the  procession  passed,  were  hung  large  ban- 
ners of  silk  and  satin,  beautifully  embroidered  in  gold,  or 


•  Every  Day  Book — 24th  June. 
39 


306  THREE  TEARS  IN  TOE  PACIFIC. 

silver,  or  silk.  All  the  world  wore  holy-day  attire.  At 
twelve  o'clock,  the  procession  in  honor  of  the  saint  formed 
at  the  convent  of  Santo  Domingo,  and  proceeded  slowly  to  the 
plaza.  The  saint,  dressed  in  a  rich  cloak  of  gold  lama,  and 
crowned  with  flowers,  was  placed  on  a  high  platform  or  table, 
called  an  "  anda,"  which  was  borne  on  men's  shoulders.  In 
former  times,  the  anda  was  covered  with  sheets  of  silver.  Fol- 
lowing the  standard  of  the  order  of  Santo  Domingo,  (of  which 
Santa  Rosa  is  a  member),  were  two  lines  of  priests,  each  bear- 
ing a  large  wax  candle,  although  it  was  noonday,  chanting  aves 
as  they  advanced.  Next  followed,  in  the  centre  of  the  street,  a 
negress,  crowned  with  flowers  and  gaudily  attired,  carrying 
in  her  hand  a  censer  of  silver  filigree,  in  the  form  of  a  bird, 
and  close  after  her  moved  the  anda.  Then  were  two  or  three 
priests,  followed  by  a  can&nigo  bearing  the  host  in  a  rich 
custodium  of  silver,  and  shaded  by  a  silken  canopy  borne 
by  four  priests.  Next  came  two  files  of  church  dignitaries, 
in  cloaks  of  gold  and  silver  lama,  wearing  horned  bonnets 
of  black ;  and  after  them,  the  civil  and  military  officers  of 
the  government,  in  gay  uniforms.  There  was  the  hero  Nico- 
chea,  and  the  veteran  General  Vivero,  who  has  shown  himself, 
during  the  whole  struggle  for  independence,  faithful  to  the  Pa- 
triot cause,  and  unmoved  either  by  bribes  or  threats.  Then 
followed  literary  men  and  collegians,  in  black,  with  huge 
cocked  hats  and  small-swords,  hearing  wax  candles.  The 
whole  was  closed  by  companies  of  infantry  with  a  fine  band, 
and  a  troop  of  cavalry. 

The  procession  moved  slowly  on,  and  when  the  anda  reached 
the  first  altar,  at  the  north-west  corner  of  the  plaza,  it  halted 
for  a  short  time,  while  a  few  aves  were  chanted.  A  file  of  in- 
fantry extended  round  the  sides  of  the  square,  to  preserve  a 
free  space  for  the  passage  of  the  procession.  The  centre  was 
crowded  with  people  of  all  classes  on  foot,  and  long  lines  of 
calesas  were  drawn  up  in  the  rear  of  the  soldiers.  The  balco- 
nies of  the  portables  were  filled  with  ladies  and  children,  and 
the  steps  of  the  cathedral  were  crowded  with  sayas  and  tap5- 
das.    When  the  procession  entered  the  plaza,  the  bells  were 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  307 

rung  merrily,  both  at  the  cathedral  and  the  convent  of  Santo 
Domingo. 

When  the  anda  reached  the  south-west  corner  of  the  por- 
tiiles,  the  calesas  that  were  drawn  up  along  the  west  side  of 
the  plaza,  drove  over,  and  drew  up  on  the  south  side,  to  gain 
a  second  view  of  the  saint.  After  about,  an  hour,  the  anda 
arrived  at  the  side  of  the  cathedral,  and  as  it  passed  along, 
a  shower  of  roses  fell  over  Santa  Rosa  from  a  silken  balloon, 
which  had  been  purposely  suspended  over  the  street.  At  the 
moment  the  flowers  fell,  two  or  three  pigeons,  which  had  been 
confined  in  the  balloon,  flew  out,  to  the  great  amusement  of  the 
crowd,  who  set  up  a  long  shout  of  admiration.  The  bells  rang 
merrily,  and  a  hundred  rockets  and  squibs  were  set  off"  from 
the  steps  and  towers  of  the  church,  and  a  salute  of  musketry 
was  fired  in  the  plaza  as  the  saint  entered. 

After  Te  Deum  had  been  chanted,  the  procession  moved 
slowly  along  another  street,  and  returned  back  to  the  convent 
whence  it  started. 

So  soon  as  the  saint  had  entered  the  church,  the  venders  of 
lottery  tickets  were  seen  wending  their  way  through  the 
crowd,  with  book  and  ink-horn;1  and  the  venders  of  confec- 
tionary of  various  kinds  also  made  themselves  heard. 

All  the  ladies  in  Lima  named  Rosa,  are  prepared  on  this  day 
to  receive  visits  from  their  friends,  who  call  to  congratulate 
them  on  the  anniversary  of  their  birth  day.  Bouquets  are  sent 
as  presents,  with  complimentary  notes  from  the  )Toung  gentle- 
men to  the  young  ladies.  In  every  house  where  there  is  a 
Rosita — the  kinder  term  for  Rosa — a  table  is  set  out  loaded 
with  fruits,  flowers,  and  sweets  of  all  kinds,  and  cordials  and 
wines,  to  regale  the  numerous  visiters.  Those  who  are  unable 
to  call,  send  their  cards.  Thus  the  whole  day  is  passed  in 
gaiety  and  visiting,  and  the  evening  in  tertulia  and  dancing. 

The  saint's  day  is  generally  the  birth  day,  for  when  a  child 
is  born,  it  is  usual  to  look  into  the  almanack,  and  name  it  after 
the  saint  on  whose  day  the  event  may  happen;  and  when  this 
is  not  the  case,  the  saint's  day  is  generally  kept  as  the  birth 
day,  and  is  celebrated  much  after  the  manner  above  described. 

Santa  Rosa  was  born  on  the  very  spot  where  her  altar  now 


308  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

stands,  in  April  15S6.  With  her  birth  the  miracles  of  her  life 
began.  Her  mother  did  not  experience  the  same  pains  of  travail 
as  she  did  with  her  other  children.  She  imbibed  devotion  and 
the  sweet  benedictions  of  grace  from  her  mother's  milk.  Until 
three  months  old,  she  was  called  Isabel ;  at  that  period  of  her 
life,  a  rosy  blush  appeared  upon  her  face,  so  beautiful,  that  her 
mother  and  nurse,  when  caressing  her,  ever  after  called  her 
Rose.  Though  christened  Isabel,  she  was  confirmed  by  the 
archbishop  Torribio,  (afterwards  a  saint),  at  five  years  of  age, 
under  the  name  of  Rosa.  Her  young  mind  became  scrupulous 
of  the  validity  of  the  confirmation,  and  applied  in  prayer  to 
the  altar  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  in  the  convent  of  Santo 
Domingo,  to  have  her  doubts  relieved.  That  sovereign  lady 
not  only  approved  of  the  name  Rosa,  but  bestowed  her  own 
as  a  surname ;  so  that  she  was  ever  after  known  under  the  title 
of  Rosa  de  Santa  Maria. 

In  her  tender  infancy,  she  manifested  a  most  decided  aver- 
sion to  all  the  usual  amusements  of  her  age,  avoided  conversa- 
tion, was  habitually  silent,  and  much  devoted  to  prayer.  When 
scarcely  five  years  old,  she  vowed  eternal  chastity,  and  conse- 
crated her  heart  and  affections  to  Jesus !  This  precious  rose 
could  not  grow  without  thorns.  The  Lord  caused  great  diffi- 
culties and  obstacles  to  be  thrown  in  her  way,  for  the  mother 
regarded  her  as  a  wayward  child.  She  endeavored  first  by 
kindness  to  convince  her  of  her  folly,  but  finding  it  vain,  she 
resorted  to  chastisement,  and  upbraided  her  with  the  epithet 
of  hypocrite.  She  ordered  her  to  adorn  her  person,  and  on  one 
occasion,  to  wear  a  garland  of  flowers  on  her  head,  which  the 
infant  saint  obeyed,  but  hid  within  it  a  number  of  pins,  to  mor- 
tify the  flesh.  Constancy  triumphed  over  the  importunity  of 
her  relatives,  and  the  confessor  obtained  the  mother's  per- 
mission to  allow  the  child  of  God  to  pursue  the  course  of  her 
own  inclinations. 

From  the  time  she  had  attained  six  years  of  age,  till  her 
death,  she  fasted  three  days  in  every  week  on  bread  and  water  ; 
and  when  forced  by  her  mother  to  eat,  she  mixed  bitter  herbs 
and  gall,  or  ashes,  in  her  food.  She  lived  one  year  on  bread 
and  water  taken  once  a  day ;  and  once  existed  fifty  days  on  a 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  309 

single  loaf  and  a  glass  of  water.   During  passion  week,  her  sole 
diet  was  five  orange  seeds  a  day  ! 

When  four  years  old,  she  was  wont  to  pray  with  heavy 
weights  on  her  shoulders,  and  later  in  life,  in  imitation  of  St. 
Dominique,  she  prayed  in  a  garden,  walking  barefoot  at  mid- 
night, bearing  a  heavy  cross  on  her  back  ! 

For  sixteen  years,  her  bed  was  strewed  with  sharp  stones, 
and  her  head  rested  on  a  pillow  of  thorns.  Besides,  she  con- 
stantly wore  chains,  and  a  crown  of  tin  filled  with  nails,  stick- 
ing inwards,  concealed  in  her  hair!  She  prayed  twelve  hours, 
and  worked  ten,  every  day,  leaving  only  two  for  repose  !  To 
keep  off  drowsiness  during  her  devotions,  she  suspended  her- 
self by  the  hair,  so  as  just  to  allow  her  toes  to  touch  the  ground! 
In  fact,  it  was  wonderful  to  see  the  inventions  to  which  she.  re- 
sorted for  self  mortification  and  humiliation.  She  was  charita- 
ble to  the  poor,  and  performed  the  most  menial  offices  for  them 
when  sick. 

Notwithstanding  her  extraordinary  piety,  she  was  averse  to 
becoming  a  nun.  At  twenty,  she  yielded  to  the  solicitations 
of  her  parents,  to  enter  a  monastery,  and  when  on  her  way, 
she  stopped  at  the  convent  of  Santo  Domingo,  to  prostrate  her- 
self for  the  last  time  before  her  favorite  altar  of  our  Lady  of 
the  Rosary.  On  attempting  to  rise,  she  found  that  all  her  efforts 
were  vain,  till  she  promised  to  return  home,  and  abandon  for- 
ever the  idea  of  taking  the  veil. 

At  this  time  she  was  clothed  with  the  third  order  of  Santo 
Domingo,  and  became  a  beata. 

One  day,  while  kneeling  before  the  altar  of  our  Lady  of  the 
Rosary,  gazing  on  the  image  with  the  infant  Saviour  in  her 
arms,  she  saw  both  smile.  The  lips  of  the  Saviour  moved,  and 
said,  "Rosa  de  mi  corazon,  se  tu  mi  Esposa."  "Rose  of  my 
heart,  be  thou  my  spouse."  Without  any  knowledge  of  this 
miracle,  a  brother  made  her  a  ring,  with  those  very  words  en- 
graved upon  it ! 

Holy  Mary,  the  Empress  of  Heaven,  often  appeared  to  her, 
and  frequently  waked  her,  saying,  "  Levantate  hija,  levantate 
a\  la  oracion,  que  ya  es  hora  oportuna." — "  Rise  daughter,  rise 
to  prayer,  for  now  is  the  proper  hour." 


310  THREE  YEARS  IX  THE  PACIFIC. 

Rosa  took  care  of  the  altar  of  our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  and 
kept  it  supplied  with  the  sweetest  flowers,  cultivated  with  her 
own  hands.  She  was  careful  that  it  should  never  he  without 
wax  candles,  which  she  hegged  from  her  female  friends.  She 
also  adorned  the  image  of  Santa  Catalina  de  Serra,  whenever 
it  was  carried  forth  in  processions.  This  saint  she  had  early 
adopted  as  her  example,  and  endeavored  to  imitate  through 
her  whole  life. 

Rosa  was  favored  by  the  angels,  with  whom  she  was  on 
terms  of  the  closest  familiarity  ("  estrechisima  familiarid&d  ;") 
they  were  the  faithful  messengers  of  her  celestial  supplications! 
In  1615,  a  Dutch  fleet  appeared  in  Callao,  and  in  conse- 
quence, the  City  of  Kings  was  thrown  into  great  consternation. 
The  archbishop  ordered  the  Holy  Sacrament  to  be  exposed  in 
all  the  churches,  and  prayers  to  be  offered  up  for  the  protection 
of  the  city.  Rosa  repaired  to  her  favorite  altar,  for  the  same 
object.  It  was  reported  that  the  heretics  were  approaching. 
She  placed  herself  before  the  altar,  resolving  to  die  a  martyr 
in  defence  of  the  holy  images  of  our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  and 
the  infant  Saviour.  She  rejoiced  in  the  prospect  of  being  soon 
translated  to  Heaven,  and  exhorted  the  females  in  the  church 
to  emulate  her  example.  She  was  disappointed,  for  the  Dutch 
sailed  without  landing;  whether  through  the  measures  taken 
against  them,  by  the  archbishop,  is  not  stated. 

Rosa  wept  and  prayed  for  the  many  she  saw  around  her 
heedless  of  the  callings  of  the  Lord;  and  was  distressed  that 
the  poor  ignorant  Indians  should  worship  such  a  thing  as  the 
sun  ! 

The  power  to  prophecy  was  also  given  to  her.  She  foretold 
the  building  of  the  convent  of  Santa  Catalina,  and  named  her 
mother  as  amongst  the  first  who  would  take  the  veil,  all  of 
which  happened  as  she  stated  ! 

Her  last  illness  was  revealed  to  her  four  months  previous  to 
her  death.  Her  disease  was  most  excruciating  and  painful, 
but  it  was  borne  with  Christian  fortitude,  derived  from  her 
life  of  penance  and  piety.  She  died  at  midnight,  on  the 
24th  of  August  1617,  in  the  thirty-second  year  of  her  age.   A 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  311 

pious  lady  saw  her  soul  escorted  to  the  regions  of  glory,  by  a 
multitude  of  angels  ! 

So  great  was  the  rush  made  by  the  inhabitants  of  Lima,  to 
obtain  parts  of  her  garments  for  reliques  and  amulets,  that 
the  viceroy  set  a  guard  over  her  body,  to  keep  them  off. 

She  was  buried  in  the  chapter  of  the  convent  of  Santo  Do- 
mingo, and  at  the  end  of  two  years,  the  body  was  exhumed, 
and  placed  upon  her  altar. 

After  her  death,  she  appeared  and  spoke  to  several  persons. 
Her  reliques  were  effectual  in  curing  the  incurable,  and  even 
in  animating  the  dead  ! 

She  was  beatified  in  Rome,  April  1688,  and  canonized  in 
1671,  as  the  universal  patroness  of  all  the  Indies.* 

Miraculous  as  the  life  of  Santa  Rosa  appears,  the  highest 
functionaries  of  the  church,  at  that  time,  bear  testimony  to  the 
facts  stated ;  and  no  less  than  eleven  holy  confessors  swore, 
that  during  her  whole  life,  she  never  committed  sin,  or  even 
had  a  sinful  thought !  Yet  there  are  not  wanting,  in  the  present 
day,  persons  malicious  enough  to  doubt  her  sanctity  and  mi- 
raculous life,  and  even  say  that  she  was  the  most  meretricious 
saint  in  the  whole  calendar  ! 

On  the  30th  of  August,  the  day  on  which  the  procession  in 
honor  of  Santa  Rosa  takes  place,  a  compendium  of  her  life, 
(from  which  the  above  is  extracted,)  is  sold  in  the  plaza  at  a 
dollar  a  copy.  It  is  a  small  duodecimo  volume  of  123  pages, 
containing  the  prayers  of  the  novena,  or  nine  days  of  devotion, 
and  a  rude  picture  of  the  saint,  under  which  is  engraved,  "  A 
true  likeness  of  Santa  Rosa  de  Santa  Maria." 

*  Vida  de  la  gloriosa  Santa  Rosa  de  Santa  Maria  de  Lima.  Lima,  1818. 


312  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC- 


CHAPTER   XV. 


Day  of  All  Saints — Pantheon — Hesponsos — Mode  of  burial — Obsequies — Col- 
lecting alms  for  masses — Day  after  All  Saints — Funeral  expenses — A  patri- 
otic curate — Rapacity  of  curates — Cofr&dia  or  burying  company — Marriage 
ceremony — Marriage  fees — Difficult  for  foreigners  to  marry  in  Peru — Clan- 
destine marriage. 

November  1st — Dia  de  todos  los  Santos — Day  of  all  Saints. 

The  streets  were  quiet  during  the  morning  ;  all  business  was 
stopped ;  the  living  only  directed  their  thoughts  to  the  man- 
sions of  the  dead.  The  churches  were  all  open,  and  many  a 
beautiful  saya  entered  and  knelt  before  the  altar  of  the  patron 
saint,  to  breathe  a  salve  for  the  rest  of  some  departed  friend. 

Nevertheless,  the  plaza,  which  smiles  even  when  blood 
stains  its  stones,  wore  its  holy-day  appearance.  The  botoneros 
were  not  seen ;  their  places  were  occupied  by  the  tables  and 
cases  of  the  mercachifles,  and  their  italage  of  small  wares. 
Officers  in  gay  and  costly  uniforms,  mustaches  combed  and 
head  erect,  sauntered  up  and  down  the  port&les.  Many  a 
laughing  eye  glanced  from  under  the  manto,  and  many  a  heart 
inquired  what  eye  it  was,  but  in  vain  ;  the  silken  dressed  feet 
still  moved  with  the  light  and  measured  step.  The  aguadores 
disputed  and  laughed,  and  filled  their  water  at  the  pila.  The 
bells  tolled,  and  misas  ascended.  The  suertero  still  cried  in  a 
broken  tone  su — Sr — te,  and  the  priests  moved  along  and  beg- 
ged alms  for  the  repose  of  those  departed,  and  their  liberation 
from  purgatory. 

About  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  all  the  world  were  in 
motion  towards  the  Pantheon — the  common  resting  place  of 
the  dead.  Before  we  reached  the  gate  of  the  city,  we  were 
accosted  by  two  women,  sitting  at  a  chapel  door,  who  held  out 
small  silver  plates,  containing  a  few  reales  and  medios  ;  with 
smiling  faces  they  begged  "un  mcdiocito  para  mi  Senora  del 
Carmen" — a  medio  for  my  Lady  Carmen.   Near  the  gate  was 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  313 

a  temporary  altar,  under  a  silken  tent,  where  women  begged 
for  Santa  Rosa.  As  we  passed  the  pulperias  at  the  different 
corners,  we  heard  the  sound  of  the  guitar  and  song,  and  beat- 
ing of  the  rude  drum. 

Beyond  the  city  wall  the  concourse  was  great.  Negroes  on 
borncos,  and  negresses  and  women  of  the  lower  orders  sitting 
astride  sorry  horses,  hurried  along  and  brushed  by  the  more 
leisurely  moving  calesas,  bearing  some  of  the  most  beautiful 
women  of  Lima.  The  gay  officers  we  saw  under  the  portdles 
were  mounted,  and  their  horses  pranced  and  curvetted  over 
the  road  ;  their  heavily  embroidered  dresses  glanced  in  the  sun, 
and  their  gay  plumes  waved  in  the  air.  The  new  sayas  (for  all 
put  on  a  new  saya  on  the  day  of  All  Saints)  strolled  along  the 
walls,  and  many  a  one  was  seated  by  the  road  side,  gazing 
from  the  mask  on  the  moving  multitude. 

When  we  reached  the  Pantheon,  which  is  about  a  mile  from 
the  city,  the  concourse  became  a  dense  crowd,  and  the  road 
was  blocked  up  with  calesas.  Very  few  ladies  alighted  from 
them,  but  remained  to  view  the  passing  scene. 

We  entered  the  resting  place  of  the  dead  through  a  hall,  in 
the  centre  of  which  is  a  cast  (probably  of  plaster)  of  the  body 
of  our  Saviour,  in  a  sepulchre  of  glass.  The  whole  is  well  ex- 
ecuted, and  the  wounds  in  the  hands  and  feet  are  distinctly 
seen.  Around  this  tomb  knelt  a  number  of  females  of  all  colors, 
and  of  all  ranks  in  society,  in  new  sayas,  muttering  salves  for 
the  dead.  The  poorest  seemed  to  be  the  most  devout ;  perhaps 
poverty  is  favorable  to  religion,  by  removing  from  us,  in  a 
great  measure,  the  temptations  and  vanities  of  the  world  ! 

We  soon  reached  the  open  yard,  and  saw  persons  moving  in 
every  direction,  examining  the  epitaphs  and  graves.  What  an 
admirable  appointment  is  the  day  of  All  Saints,  to  bring  us  to 
a  retrospection  of  the  past,  and  remind  us  of  our  mortality  I 
But,  like  many  other  well  intended  festivals  of  the  Romish 
church,  it  has  become  a  day  of  rejoicing,  instead  of  mourning 
for  our  own  and  the  sins  of  our  deceased  friends. 

Not  far  from  the  front  of  the  building  through  which  we 
entered,  there  is  a  hollow  pyramid,  made  of  canes,  plastered 
over  with  mud,  covering  a  deep  and  capacious  vault,  in  which, 
40 


314  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE    PACIFIC. 

are  thrown  those  bodies,  that  are  found,  on  exhumation,  to  be 
not  yet  entirely  decayed.  Around  it  are  eight  blocks  or  tiers 
of  holes,  adapted  to  receive  the  dead  bodies  of  children  ;  they 
are  connected  to  each  other  by  a  wooden  railing,  and  thus 
form  an  octangular  enclosure. 

About  this  spot  stood  several  Fathers,  in  their  church  habili- 
ments, repeating  responses  for  those  who  came  to  purchase.  I 
observed  one,  and  stood  near  enough  to  hear.  Presently  an 
Indian  came  up,  and  very  respectfully  taking  off  his  Guaya- 
quil hat,  requested  "un  responso."  ,;Paraquien? — for  whom? 
asked  the  friar.  For  Francisca,  replied  the  Indian.  The  priest 
folded  his  arms,  and  muttered  the  prayer  pretty  rapidly  ;  to- 
wards the  close  he  clasped  his  hands  mechanically,  and  rolling 
his  eyes  towards  Heaven,  came  to  the  Amen.  The  Indian  fol- 
lowed the  holy  father  to  the  end,  and  when  he  had  ceased, 
handed  him  a  two  real  piece.  The  padre  fumbled  a  little  while 
to  find  the  pocket  that  he  wore  under  his  robe,  and  then  re- 
turned a  real  in  change  ;  and  the  poor  Indian  walked  off  with 
the  countenance  of  one  who  had  fulfilled  a  pious  duty — per- 
haps he  felt  that  Francisca  was  relieved  of  a  real's  worth  of 
purgatorial  pains!  Several  persons  followed,  and  paid  their 
real  for  responses.  The  padre  discharged  his  duty  towards 
them  with  the  nonchalance  and  confident  air  of  one  experienced 
in  the  business  ;  when  alone,  he  stepped  near  to  one  of  his 
order,  and  whispering  into  his  ear,  both  burst  into  a  merry 
laugh.  At  almost  every  corner  about  the  grounds,  was  a  padre 
repeating  requiescats  for  some  poor  mortal. 

The  Pantheon  walls  enclose  about  two  acres  of  ground, 
which  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees  or  any  thing  green  ;  the 
surface  is  parched  by  the  sun,  and  almost  as  white  as  ashes. 
It  is  divided  into  several  squares,  by  low  walls  or  curbs  of 
adobes.  In  these  are  dug  trenches,  and  the  bodies  of  the  poor, 

"Unknell'd,  uncoffm'd,  and  unknown," 

are  thrown  promiscuously  together,  and  the  earth  pitched  in 
and  pounded  down.  Almost  every  morning  a  half  dozen  are 
thus  bestowed,  for  the  sexton  or  undertaker  waits  till  the  dead 
house  is  filled  before  he  buries  ;  being  no  more  trouble  in  his 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  315 

opinion  to  bury  a  dozen  bodies  tban  one.  The  wealthy,  how- 
ever, are  differently  disposed  of.  On  one  side  of  the  Pantheon 
are  four  tiers  or  blocks  of  holes,  about  five  feet  high,  ranged 
in  the  form  of  a  square,  each  of  which  is  of  sufficient  capacity 
to  receive  a  corpse  and  its  coffin.  From  the  roof  of  these  holes 
being  arched,  the  English  term  them  ovens,  though  their  office 
more  closely  resembles  that  of  an  ice  house.  The  mouths  of 
these  stratified  sepulchres  are  closed  with  a  brass  or  copper 
plate,  cemented  round  with  mortar;  upon  them  are  inscribed 
the  name  of  the  deceased,  age,  epitaph,  &c.  At  the  expiration 
of  five  or  six  years,  according  to  the  term  for  which  the  grave 
may  have  been  leased,  the  bones  are  removed  and  burned. 
Those  of  the  common  people  are  exhumed  on  the  morning  of 
All  Saints,  and  heaped  up  on  the  outside  of  the  Pantheon  walls, 
and  burned  at  leisure.  This  custom  renders  the  Pantheon  all 
sufficient  as  the  burial  place  of  the  whole  population  of  Lima, 
and  it  will  endure  for  ages. 

Funerals  are  usually  celebrated  soon  after  twilight,  and  are 
conducted  with  a  good  deal  of  pomp  and  solemnity.  Every 
person  carries  a  lighted  candle,  and  the  hearse  is  followed  by 
priests  chanting  the  requiem  hymn.  The  corpse  is  left  in  the 
church  all  night,  and  interred  the  following  clay  by  the  sexton. 
Several  months  afterwards,  sometimes  a  year,  the  relatives  of 
the  deceased  invite  their  friends  to  assist  in  the  celebration  of 
mass  for  the  soul  of  the  departed.   The  invitation  runs  thus  : 

"  Jose  Maria,  Benito,  Juan  Antonio,  sons  of  the  late  Don 
Juan  Maria  Fernandez  (may  he  rest  in  peace),  supplicate  you 
to  commend  him  to  God,  and  be  pleased  to  assist  at  the  obse- 
quies that  are  to  be  celebrated  for  his  soul  on  the  28th  inst., 
at  half  past  eight  A.  M.,  in  the  church  of  the  cathedral,  for 
which  favor  they  will  remain  obliged." 
"Al  Sor.  Don ." 

"  The  mourners  will  be  received  and  taken  leave  of  at  the 
church." 

Formerly  bodies  were  interred  in  the  churches  and  con- 
vents ;  though  the  Pantheon  was  opened  in  1S00,  it  was  not 
generally  used  till  after  the  following  preamble  and  decree 
were  issued  by  San  Martin. 


316  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"  Believing  that  nothing;  hut  an  excessive  prejudice,  as  ill 
suited  tu  ihe  lights  of  the  age,  as  it  is  prejudicial  to  the  puhlic 
health,  can  perpetuate  the  abuse  of  interring  dead  hodies  in  the 
temples  consecrated  to  the  assembling  of  the  faithful,  and  to  the 
worship  of  the  Eternal  ; 

"  I  therefore  order, 

"  1st.  That  no  body  shall  be  buried  outside  of  the  Pantheon, 
be  the  defunct's  rank  in  society  what  it  may. 

"2d.  That  the  bodies  of  nuns  shall  also  be  buried  in  the 
Pantheon;  and  carried  there  with  all  the  religious  ceremony 
which  ought  to  be  observed  towards  the  remains  of  any  one 
who  has  been  the  spouse  (esposa)  of  Jesus  Christ. 

"  3d.  That  the  present  decree  shall  be  communicated  to  the 
governor  of  the  bishopric,  and  be  inserted  in  the  official  gazette, 
that  it  may  be  complied  with. 

"  Given  in  the  Protectoral  Palace  of  Lima,  October  25th, 
1821.* 

"San  Martin." 

By  a  subsequent  decree,  however,  nuns  are  permitted  to  be 
buried  in  the  cemeteries  of  the  monasteries  in  which  they  may 
have  died  ;  and  I  believe  the  same  privilege  is  extended  to  friars 
belonging  to  convents. 

Towards  sunset,  the  concourse  moved  in  a  stream  towards 
the  city.  Many  an  officer  of  gallant  bearing,  and  many  a 
gay  cavalier,  glanced  at  the  beauty  in  the  passing  calesas. 
Many  a  negro  sang  some  amusing  ditty  as  he  strode  along, 
mocking  the  solemnity  with  which  the  day  was  intended  to  be 
observed.  The  scene  was  almost  as  gay  as  that  presented  by  a 
crowd  returning  from  a  bull-bait  ;  there  is  little  respect  mani- 
fested towards  the  memory  of  the  dead,  after  the  requisite 
number  of  masses  have  been  said  to  liberate  them  from  the 
pangs  of  purgatory. 

At  the  corner  of  a  church  by  which  we  passed,  stood  a  table 
covered  with  a  black  cloth,  bordered  with  narrow  gold  lace. 
On  the  centre  of  it  was  a  naked,  wooden,  half  figure  of  a  female 
in  the  attitude  of  prayer.     On  one  side  was  a  silver  crucifix, 

•  Coleccion  dc  las  Icycs  del  Peru. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  317 

and  on  the  other  a  silver  plate,  containing  reales,  medios,  and 
quartillos,  and  on  each  corner  was  placed  a  human  skull.  Be- 
side the  table  sat  a  mulatto  priest,  under  a  broad  brimmed  hat 
rolled  up  at  the  sides,  and  a  black  silk  habit.  Beggary  is  con- 
ducted in  a  magnificent  style  in  Peru  !  I  asked  the  priest  what 
it  all  meant.  He  told  me  that  the  image  was  an  "dnima," 
or  departed  spirit,  in  the  flames  of  purgatory,  and  that  the 
skulls  were  to  remind  us  that  we  must  all  die — that  the  next 
day  was  to  be  devoted  to  saying  masses  for  the  dead,  and  he 
was  collecting  alms  for  that  purpose.  I  asked  if  the  skulls  were 
of  Indians.  He  replied,  "No!  they  are  from  the  Pantheon." 
And  pray,  said  I,  may  they  not  be,  nevertheless,  Indian  skulls 
— what  is  the  difference?  "  Puez  Senor  esos  son  de  Cristianos 
— los  Indios  no  son  !" — These,  Sir,  are  Christians,  the  Indians 
are  not." 

The  second  day  of  November  (that  following  All  Saints), 
masses  were  said  in  all  the  churches  in  the  city  for  the  repose 
of  the  dead.  In  the  cathedral  there  was  a  procession  of  church 
dignitaries  and  priests,  all  dressed  in  cloaks  of  gold  and  silver 
lama,  trimmed  with  black  velvet;  and  each  wore  a  black  velvet 
cross  over  the  back.  In  the  church  of  the  convent  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, I  saw  a  priest  leave  the  choir  where  he  was  chanting 
mass,  and  step  behind  a  pillar  and  say  a  response,  for  which 
he  received  a  real  from  a  negro  who  had  beckoned  him  out ! 

In  Lima,  and  indeed  throughout  Peru,  funerals  are  attend- 
ed with  great  expense.  The  curates  exacted  so  much  on  these 
occasions,  that  a  law  was  passed,  assigning  the  amounts  that 
might  be  charged  for  each  kind  of  interment.  The  articles  re- 
quired that  curates  should  bury  the  poor,  and  those  who  had 
been  in  any  public  employment,  without  any  charge  whatever. 
For  a  burial  in  the  parochial  or  semi-parochial  church,  with 
the  corpse  present,  the  curate  is  entitled  to  sixteen  dollars,  in- 
cluding the  vigil,  mass,  and  two  chanted  responses,  "  cruz 
alta"  or  elevated  cross,  censer  and  chiming  of  bells  ;  but  no 
mourner  is  required  to  observe  this  pomp,  unless  the  deceas- 
ed may  have  so  ordered  in  his  will,  or  his  heirs  desire  it.  If 
the  mourners  should  require  more  "posas,"  or  passing  bells, 
the  curate  may  receive  two  dollars  for  each,  but  in  no  case  can 


318  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  number  exceed  eight.  If  surplices  are  desired,  which  may 
not  exceed  eight,  including  two  chanting  ecclesiastics,  he  may 
receive  for  each  two  dollars.  For  a  chanted  burial  without  the 
parish,  the  charge  is  one  third  more.  For  a  chanted  mass,  in 
honor  of  the  deceased,  at  the  end  of  the  year,  with  a  vigil  also 
chanted,  the  curate  is  entitled  to  eight  dollars.  But  these  ho- 
nors, and  "  cabo  de  aiio,"  or  end  of  the  )'ear,  are  not  obliga- 
tory. If  the  parties  desire  a  "  novena,"  or  nine  days  of  chant- 
ed masses,  with  a  vigil,  ended  with  a  single  response,  the  cu- 
rate is  entitled  to  two  dollars  for  each.  For  the  interment  of 
a  child,  the  charge  is  eight  dollars  ;  but  more,  if  accompanied 
with  ringing  of  bells,  and  surplices.  Natives,  or  Indians,  are 
to  pay  nothing,  unless  they  are  known  to  possess  property  ; 
then  they  are  charged  one  half.  Such  are  the  rates  fixed  by 
law,  but  they  are  not  attended  to,  and  the  curates  always  en- 
deavor to  impress  upon  the  minds  of  the  parishioners,  how 
important  these  masses  are  to  the  rest  of  the  defunct's  soul  ! 

Not  long  since  the  god-child  of  a  lady  died  ;  the  parents 
were  too  much  reduced  to  give  it  that  kind  of  burial  which 
their  former  circumstances  warranted.  The  god-mother  gene- 
rously undertook  the  management  and  expense  of  the  funeral. 
To  ascertain  what  were  the  expenses  and  proper  steps  to  be 
taken,  she  called  on  the  curate  of  the  parish.  He  told  her, 
that  the  expense,  if  a  Spanish  child,  would  be  forty-eight 
dollars;  if  a  plebeian  of  the  country,  twelve  dollars;  and  if  be- 
longing to  any  one  of  the  various  castes,  six  dollars.  Now  as 
this  was  a  Spanish  child,  the  expense  would  be  forty-eight  dol- 
lars, and  a  mass  the  next  day  to  deliver  its  soul  from  purga- 
tory, would  be  twelve  dollars  extra!  She  told  him,  that  as 
infants'  souls  did  not  stop  in  purgatory,  she  supposed  the  mass 
would  be  unnecessary.  "  Puez  bucno" — very  well,  said  he, 
"if  you  choose  to  run  the  risk  of  it,  the  mass  may  be  dispensed 
with,  but  the  funeral  will  be  not  a  quartillo  less  than  forty- 
eight  dollars."  However  patriotic  it  might  be  thought,  in  the 
time  of  the  revolution,  to  charge  more  for  the  interment  of  a 
Spanish  subject,  we  should  suppose  that  Christian  chanty 
would  have  caused  this  pious  clergyman  to  have  equalized  the 
expense,  now  it  is  over  ! 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  319 

The  rapacity  of  the  curates,  though  less  now,  is  almost  in- 
credible. Previous  to  the  revolution,  a  curacy  in  Peru  was  a 
sure  fortune  to  the  possessor*  in  the  course  of  a  very  few 
years.  Even  now,  the  only  cow  of  a  poor  widow  is  sometimes 
sold  to  pay  the  funeral  expenses  of. her  husband  !  In  Pisco,  I 
saw  an  Indian  boy,  who  had  been  sold  by  the  curate  in  one  of 
the  interior  provinces,  to  pay  for  the  requisite  number  of 
masses  for  the  rest  of  his  father's  soul  ! 

The  curates  supply  the  wax  candles  used  at  funerals,  for 
which  they  charge  an  extravagant  price.  They  are  weighed 
previous  to  leaving  the  church,  and  again  when  returned  ;  the 
amount  of  wax  consumed  is  thus  ascertained,  and  the  mourners 
are  made  to  pay  for  it.  The  number  of  candles  used  at  a  fu- 
neral is  limited  to  twenty-eight,  by  law.  It  is  usual  to  place 
four  candles  round  the  corpse  in  the  house  before  interment, 
but  the  curates  generally  recommend  eight,  as  being  more  ef- 
fectual in  saving  the  soul  from  the  torments  of  purgatory.  In- 
deed, so  firmly  are  the  lower  classes  convinced  of  the  necessity 
of  masses  for  the  eternal  rest  of  the  deceased,  that  there  is  a 
cofr&dia  or  company  in  Lima,  to  which  every  poor  family  pays 
a  real  a  week,  for  which  the  company  engage  to  defray  the 
funeral  expenses,  and  purchase  the  requisite  number  of  masses, 
in  case  of  the  death  of  any  of  its  members. 

Besides  the  fees  for  funerals,  the  curates  receive  others  for 
marriages.  The  marriage  ceremony  consists  of  two  parts  ;  one 
is  the  simple  benediction  of  the  parties  on  joining  hands,  after 
having  expressed  their  mutual  consent  before  witnesses.  After 
the  consummation,  sometimes  the  next  day,  and  sometimes  a 
week,  the  parties  go  to  church,  and  go  through  the  second  part 
of  the  ceremony,  which  is  called  the  "  velacion"  or  veiling,  or 
nuptial  benediction.  The  bride  is  covered  with  a  veil,  and 
kneels  with  the  bridegroom  before  the  altar.  After  mass  is 
said,  he  puts  the  ring  on  the  bride's  finger,  and  presents  her 
with  thirteen  pieces  of  money,  which  are  termed  the  "  arras." 
These  pieces  of  money  may  be  reales,  or  two  real  pieces,  or  es- 
cudos,  or  onzas  of  gold,  according  to  the  pecuniary  circum- 

*  See  Noticias  Secretas. 


320  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

stances  of  the  parties.  These  thirteen  pieces  or  arras  are  given 
by  the  bride  to  the  curate.  The  velacion  cannot  take  place 
during  lent,  except  on  St.  Joseph's  day.  Besides  the  arras, 
the  curate  is  entitled  to  thirteen  dollars  and  four  reales,  for  wax, 
proclaiming  the  marriage,  &c. ;  and  or  ascertaining  the  fact  of 
bachelorship,  the  consent  of  the  contracting  parties,  and  the 
assent  of  parents  or  guardians,  he  receives  twelve  dollars! 

Great  difficulties  are  thrown  in  the  way  of  foreigners,  who 
wish  to  marry  Limanian  ladies,  if  they  be  not  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  faith.  To  render  the  nuptials  legal,  and  the  children 
legitimate,  a  license  and  a  dispensation  are  required  to  be  ob- 
tained from  the  bishop  or  archbishop.  To  enhance  the  value 
of  this  indulgence,  the  bishop  bears  long  importunity,  and  at 
last  yields,  in  consideration  of  a  douceur  of  five  or  six  hundred 
dollars,  which  he  accepts,  only  to  be  given  to  the  poor,  or  for 
masses  for  the  benefit  of  the  bridegroom  !  Persuasion  to  join 
the  church,  or  as  the  phrase  is,  "hacerse  Cristiano" — become 
a  Christian,  is  always  made  use  of,  and  if  the  candidate  for  hy- 
men's altar  will  attend  mass  and  confess,  all  the  difficulty  is 
removed  !  Fortunately  for  foreigners  in  this  predicament,  a 
half  dozen  onzas,  quietly  deposited  in  the  hands  of  the  curate 
of  the  parish,  will  clear  all  obstructions  in  the  way,  without 
resorting  to  the  bishop,  or  even  "becoming  a  Christian,"  and 
for  two  dollars  more,  the  necessary  certificate  may  be  obtained. 

In  cases  where  the  parties  have  been  unwilling  to  pursue 
this  latter  course,  and  dispensation  could  not  be  procured  from 
the  bishop,  the  "  clandestine  marriage"  has  been  resorted  to. 
It  is  thus  effected.  At  the  elevation  of  the  host  in  the  usual 
mass,  when  the  priest  pronounces  the  benediction,  the  bride- 
groom, in  the  presence  of  three  witnesses  (who  afterwards  sign 
the  marriage  contract,)  says,  taking  the  hand  of  the  bride,  "I 
am  your  husband,  you  are  my  wife;"  and  she  replies,  "I  am 
your  wife,  you  are  my  husband."  This  form  is  all  sufficient 
to  make  the  nuptials  legal,  and  consequently,  the  children  le- 
gitimate. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  321 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Influence  of  priests  over  society — Perpetual-light — Priests  rule  families — Con- 
fession— Penances — Money  paid  for  expiation  of  sin — Novenas — Superstition 
— Preaching — Bulas  de  Cruzada — Character  of  the  clergy — Notions  about 
religious  toleration — Supremacy  of  the  Pope — "Cartas  Peruanas." 

In  spite  of  the  low  state  of  morals  in  Lima,  the  influence  of 
religion,  or  rather  of  its  priests  over  society,  is  very  great. 
Whatever  the  "sacerdote  santo"  says,  is  looked  upon  with 
great  veneration.  They  exercise  their  power,  however,  with 
a  great  deal  of  lenity,  and  seldom  interdict  any  of  the  pleasures 
or  pastimes  of  the  people.  Notwithstanding  this  influence,  the 
number  of  intrinsically  pious  Catholics  is  very  limited,  though 
all  are  very  observant  of  the  forms  of  religion.  The  priests 
are  very  careful  in  giving  currency  to  superstitious  notions,  par- 
ticularly in  cases  where  pecuniary  profit  is  to  be  derived.  The 
importance  of  endowing  chapels  and  chaplains,  is  very  gene- 
rally inculcated. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  there  is  a  small  crucifix  stand- 
ing in  little  niche  in  the  wall  of  a  corner  house,  before  which 
a  light  has  been  kept  burning  for  many  years.  Around  the 
niche  are  nailed  small  books,  said  to  contain  the  history  of  an 
individual  who  was  murdered  near  the  spot,  and  who  left  a  very 
respectable  estate.  As  he  died  without  the  sacrament  and  con- 
fession, a  portion  of  his  property  was  allotted  to  pay  for  daily 
masses,  to  free  his  soul  from  the  pangs  of  purgatory,  which  is 
held  up  by  the  clergy  as  a  terror  to  the  ignorant,  to  prevent 
them  from  omitting  any  of  the  forms  of  the  church.  Indeed, 
it  would  seem,  as  that  eccentric  tyrant  of  Paraguay,  Dr.  Fran- 
cia,  once  said,  "  the  priests  teach  the  people  to  be  mindful  of 
the  devil,  and  forgetful  of  God  Almighty."* 

The  priests  managed,  through  the  means  of  the  confessional 

*  Essai  Historique  sur  la  Revolution  du  Paraguay,  pour  Rengger  et  Long- 
champ. 

41 


322  THREE    VEARS  IN  THE    PACIFIC. 

and  the  duefias,  to  make  themselves  rulers  of  families  of  wealth, 
and  even,  in  some  degree,  governed  their  domestic  regime.  If 
a  servant  made  himself  obnoxious  to  the  confessor,  he  was 
soon  dismissed,  and  his  place  filled  by  a  person  of  the  padre's 
own  selection.  Though  this  influence  has  worn  away  before 
the  improvement  of  Lima  in  knowledge,  there  are  still  many 
powerful  families  completely  ruled  by  the  ministers  of  the 
church.  It  is  through  the  confessional,  that  powerful  engine  of 
mental  despotism,  that  the  priests  have  maintained  that  sway 
which  has  been  so  fatal  to  the  advancement  of  civil  liberty  and 
true  knowledge.  Children,  who  are  scarcely  able  to  compre- 
hend the  meaning  of  purgatory,  or  heaven,  are  sent  to  the 
family  confessor  to  recount  their  infant  sins.  A  lady,  who  is 
in  the  habit  of  expressing  more  independent  views  than  is  ge- 
nerally done  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  "City  of  the  Free," 
told  me  that  her  parents  sent  her  to  confess,  when  she  was  so 
young  that  she  had  no  idea  of  the  meaning  of  sin.  Her  objec- 
tions and  protestations  were  in  vain.  She  at  last  used  to  tell 
the  confessor  a  story  inpromptu,  often  as  extravagant  as  it  was 
false,  and  perform  the  penance  to  which  he  condemned  her, 
in  order  to  be  free  from  the  chiding  of  her  parents.  A  young 
friend  of  this  same  lady,  committed  to  memory  the  catalogue 
of  sins  contained  in  the  confessional  guide  book,  and  acknow- 
ledged herself  guilty  of  the  whole  !  The  pious  father  was 
curious  to  see  a  person  of  a  character  so  abandoned  as  the 
little  girl  represented  herself  to  be,  and  looking  forth  from 
the  confessional,  he  beheld  a  child  scarcely  seven  years  of  age  ! 

The  pious  confess  weekly,  and  some  even  daily,  but  all  are 
compelled,  under  the  peril  of  excommunication,  to  lay  their 
sins  before  the  padre,  and  ask  forgiveness  at  least  once  a  year. 
Just  before,  and  during  the  early  part  of  Lent,  is  the  season  that 
all  endeavor  to  remember  the  sins  of  the  past  year,  and  make 
a  humble  and  contrite  confession,  and,  under  a  promise  of  doing 
better  for  the  future,  obtain  absolution. 

The  penances  imposed,  consist  sometimes  in  wearing  a  lea- 
ther girdle;  sometimes  pecuniary  fines  or  religious  offerings 
arc  required.  In  1S28,  an  order  was  issued  to  the  reverend 
bishops  and  ecclesiastic  governors  of  the  several  dioceses  in  the 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  323 

republic,  to  inform  against  those  curates  who  required  money 
to  be  paid  for  penance,  or  to  remove  impediments  to  matrimo- 
ny, particularly  amongst  the  Indians.  To  those  impediments, 
prices  were  affixed,  according  to  their  supposed  gravity. 

The  curates  are  in  the  habit  of  imposing  certain  feasts,  which 
are  paid  for  by  their  parishioners.  This  custom  was  carried  to 
such  an  excess,  that  a  decree  was  published  against  it,  limiting 
the  number  of  feasts  to  eight  yearly;  and  also  limiting  the 
price  of  each  feast  to  ten  dollars.  Offerings  of  every  kind  were 
prohibited,  which  it  was  customary  to  exact  under  the  name  of 
ricuchico  y  aguinaldos ;  also  the  oblations  required  by  some 
curates  during  holy  week,  under  the  title  of  Preosles,  Jllfe- 
reces,  Estandarteros,  &c.  The  laws  of  Peru,  both  religious 
and  civil,  are  but  little  heeded,  except  while  they  are  new; 
therefore  the  curates,  in  the  remote  provinces  particularly, 
still  continue  their  exactions. 

Amongst  many  other  religious  feasts,  are  the  "novenas,"  or 
nine  days  prayer,  in  honor  of  particular  saints,  which  are  cele- 
brated with  a  great  deal  of  pomp,  at  the  expense  of  the  parish- 
ioners. There  are  also  prayer  meetings  almost  every  night  in 
the  churches  of  the  convents,  which  are  attended  by  great 
numbers  of  the  lower  classes,  amongst  which  are  found  the  fa- 
natics in  this,  as  well  as  in  our  own  happy  country.  The  ig- 
norance and  superstition  of  these  classes  fill  me  with  pity  for 
them,  and  disgust  for  their  hypocritical  teachers.  One  even- 
ing, in  the  convent  of  St.  Augustin,  I  heard  an  old  lady,  in 
saya  y  manto,  chide  another  who  was  kneeling  near  her,  for 
wearing  her  combs  in  church,  telling  her  that  it  was  a  mortal 
sin,  and  that  she  had  better  remove  them.  The  young  woman 
replied,  with  some  warmth,  "  Vmd*  es  mas  pecadora  que  yo — 
y  no  me  da  la  gana  quitarmelos — ^  pues  es  mas  pecado,  el  llevar 
peine  de  noche  qui  de  dia?" — You  are  a  greater  sinner  than  I 
— and  T  dont  choose  to  take  them  out — for,  is  it  a  greater  sin 
to  wear  a  comb  by  night  than  by  day? 

On  these  occasions,  all  the  arts  of  eloquent  description  of 
hell  and  purgatory  are  made  use  of  by  these  fanatic  and  aban- 
doned priests,  to  maintain  the  fears  of  the  people,  and  to  pro- 


324  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

pagate  superstitions  which  are,  alas  !  but  too  widely  spread  over 
Peru,  and  indeed  over  all  South  America. 

A  very  intelligent  Limanian  told  me,  that  when  a  child,  her 
nurse  carried  her  to  hear  a  sermon  at  one  of  those  night  meet- 
ings. The  priest,  after  the  celebration  of  mass,  ascended  the 
pulpit.  He  set  forth  in  glowing  terms  all  the  horrors  of  hell — 
the  torments  that  awaited  those  who  in  this  world  neglected 
confession  and  the  purchase  of  indigencies,  and  at  length,  by 
his  eloquence,  wrought  the  whole  congregation  to  tears.  He 
then  exclaimed,  "Ye  are  cursed — and  your  souls  will  burn 
and  blaze  forever,  as  I  do  now,"  at  the  same  time  throwing 
out  his  arms;  his  sleeves,  which  had  been  purposely  wet  with 
spirits,  took  fire  in  one  of  the  candles.  While  thus  in  flames, 
he  seized  a  crucifix,  and  rushed  from  the  pulpit,  crying,  "  Let 
me  escape  the  contamination  of  these  vile  sinners." 

Besides  the  feasts  imposed  and  alms  begged,  the  people  are 
burthened  with  the  charge  of  "Bulas  de  Cruzada"  or  Crusade 
Bulls,  and  other  "  indulgencias." 

Las  bulas  de  Cruzada  were  originally  conceded  to  the  kings 
of  Spain  by  the  popes,  and  the  profits  resulting  from  their  sale 
were  devoted  to  aid  the  holy  wars  or  Crusades,  and  hence 
their  name.  When  the  age  of  chivalry  faded  away  before  the 
advancing  lights  of  knowledge,  and  the  necessity  that  created 
the  vending  of  the  bulas  de  Cruzada  had  ceased,  they  had  be- 
come a  lucrative  branch  of  the  church  revenue.  Soon  after  the 
conquest  of  America,  the  bulas  de  Cruzada  were  introduced; 
and  at  the  commencement  of  the  revolution,  there  were  five 
different  kinds  of  bulas,  each  one  possessing  its  respective  vir- 
tues. These  were  the  bull  of  the  living,  the  "  lacticinio,"  or 
that  for  food  into  the  composition  of  which  milk  entered 
largely,  the  dispensation  for  eating  meat  on  days  of  abstinence, 
and  the  bulls  of  the  dead,  and  of  composition  or  reconciliation. 
To  each  was  affixed  a  price;  they  were  sold  from  two  reales 
and  a  half  to  fifteen  dollars,  according  to  their  supposed  vir- 
tues, and  the  pecuniary  circumstances  of  the  purchaser.  The 
bulls  were  published  every  two  years,  at  the  end  of  which  pe- 
riod their  virtues  ceased,  and  a  new  sale  was  made;  it  was 
therefore  necessary  to  purchase  new  ones.    The  bulls  were 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  325 

written  in  Spanish,  and  printed  on  ordinary  paper,  in  semi- 
gothic  characters.* 

The  bulls  were  purchased  for  every  member  of  the  family 
that  had  attained  seven  years  of  age;  and  so  fully  persuaded 
were  the  poor  of  their  necessity  to  complete  absolution  after 
confession,  and  also  of  their  efficacy  in  mitigating  the  torments 
of  those  of  their  friends  who  had  departed  to  another  world, 
that  they  sacrificed  any  thing  in  their  possession  to  obtain  the 
bulls  of  dispensation  for  eating  meat,  and  those  of  the  living 
and  of  the  dead. 

The  revolution  interrupted  all  communication  with  the 
Apostolic  See,  and  consequently  the  bulas  de  Cruzada,  that 
were  on  hand,  lost  their  efficacy  before  a  new  stock  could  be 
supplied.  Under  these  circumstances,  on  the  12th  of  Decem- 
ber 1825,  the  dean  of  the  holy  metropolitan  church  of  Lima 
issued  an  order  to  continue  the  sale  of  the  bulas  de  Cruzada, 
which  had  been  suspended  on  the  fourth  of  March  preceding. 
The  order  states,  "as  the  want  of  communication  renders  it 
impossible  to  consult  the  Silla  Apostolica,  and  being  necessary 
in  the  existing  circumstances,  the  bula  de  Cruzada  will  be 
granted,  that  meat  may  be  eaten  on  the  days  of  Lent  and  on 
other  days  of  abstinence,  excepting  only  Ash  Wednesday ; 
every  Friday  in  Lent ;  Wednesday,  Thursday,  Friday,  and 
Saturday  in  holy  week;  the  vigils  of  the  nativity  of  Our  Lord 
and  the  Pentecost;  the  assumption  of  Our  Lady,  and  the  days 
of  the  blessed  apostles,  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul ;  with  the  under- 
standing, however,  that  on  all  excepted  days  for  eating  meat,  it 
is  obligatory  to  preserve  the  form  of  fast,  it  not  being  permitted 
to  mix  fish  and  flesh,  agreeable  to  the  constitution  of  the  so- 
vereign pontiff,  Benedict  XIV.,  dated  30th  of  May  1741,  be- 
ginning, '  Non  ambigimusj  &c." 

To  obtain  this  indulgence,  some  act  of  charity  or  penance  is 
required.  "  All  persons  in  authority,  from  the  first  in  the  re- 
public, all  in  its  employ  who  enjoy  any  salary  whatever,  all 
'haciendados'  or  farmers,  whether  proprietors  or  tenants,  all 
who  possess  any  property,  or  are  engaged  in  commerce,  (every 

•  Restrepo.  Historia  de  Colombia. 


326  THREE  FEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC 

individual)  shall  annually  pay  one  coined  silver  dollar  to  the 
hospitals  or  other  pious  institutions.  Those  who  are  not  enu- 
merated .shall  pay  the  fourth  part,  which  is  two  reales.  Those 
who  arc  poor,  and  religious  mendicants  of  both  sexes,  shall 
only  he  obliged  to  pray  on  each  day  a  Pater  Noster  and  an 
Jive  Maria,  beseeching  God  in  favor  of  religion  and  of  the 
state.  Thus  shall  all  obtain  the  benefits  of  the  '  indulgencia.' 
"  In  the  same  way  and  by  the  same  means,  may  be  enjoyed 
all  the  spiritual  privileges  and  indulgences,  contained  in  the 
summary  of  the  bulas  de  Cruzada  of  the  living  and  of  the  dead. 
Not  doubting  this  to  be  the  will  and  religious  intention  of  the 
high  dispenser  of  them,  we,  therefore,  on  our  part,  by  the 
powers  ordinary  and  delegate  which  authorize  us,  concede 
them  for  the  relief  and  felicity  of  the  faithful,  and  the  tran- 
quillity of  their  consciences. 

"Given  in  Lima,  December  12th  1825. 

"Francisco  J.  de  Echague,  Dean. 

"Dr.  Jorje  de  Benavente,  Secretary  " 

The  clergy  of  Peru,  like  that  of  all  Spanish  America,  holds 
in  its  ranks  men  of  talents,  deep  scholastic  learning  and  pa- 
triotism, but  the  great  mass  of  priests  is  composed  of  men  who 
are  plunged  in  superstitious  ignorance,  and  given  to  every  kind 
of  immorality. 

The  majority  of  those  wearing  the  garb  of  the  church,  are 
men  of  the  lowest  vices — men  who  stroll  the  streets  ragged 
and  filthy  in  their  persons — men  who,  in  spite  of  their  vows 
of  celibacy,  live  in  open  concubinage,  and  own  themselves, 
not  only  fathers  of  the  church,  but  also  of  a  numerous  offspring, 
doubly  illegitimate.  I  have  heard  them  boast  of  their  success- 
ful amours,  and  say  that  holy  orders  do  not  change  human  na- 
ture !  The  Peruvian  clergy,  particularly  the  lower  grades,  as 
curates  and  sub-curates,  have  borne  this  character  for  the  last 
hundred  years.  Ulloa,  in  his  "  Noticias  Secretas,,>  complains 
of  their  being  addicted  to  women,  gambling,  and  to  imposing 
upon  their  parishioners.      His  account  is  given  in  sober  Ian- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  327 

guage,  but  the  description  given  by  Butler  of  the  fanatics  of 
his  time,  is  quite  applicable  to  Peru. 

(They)  "  could  turn  the  cov'nant,  and  translate 
The  Gospel  into  spoons  atid  plate  ; 
Expound  upon  all  merchants'  cashes, 
And  open  the  intricatest  places  ; 
Could  catechize  a  money-box, 
And  prove  all  pouches  orthodox." 

They  beg  every  day  through  the  streets,  under  the  pretence  of 
some  pious  purpose,  but  devote  the  greater  part  of  their  collec- 
tions to  the  support  of  their  mistresses,  illegitimate  children, 
and  numerous  vices. 

Unfortunately  for  the  cause  of  religion  in  all  ages,  the  faults 
and  vicious  habits  of  its  teachers  have  been  charged  against 
the  purity  of  Christianity  itself.  And,  however  we  may  differ 
in  opinion  with  the  Roman  Catholic  clergy,  it  is  our  duty  to 
give  their  arguments  an  honest  consideration;  for  amongst 
those  above  alluded  to,  we  meet,  even  in  Lima,  men  of  most 
exemplary  piety  and  austere  virtue,  such  as  the  venerable 
Padre  Arrieta  and  others.  One  reason  for  the  degraded  state 
of  the  clergy  is,  that  since  the  revolution,  many  priests,  by  the 
suppression  of  the  convents  and  monastic  property,  have  em- 
braced the  privilege  of  the  law  of  secularization,  or  leaving  the 
cloister.  This  has  cast  upon  the  world  men  who  are  destitute  of 
means  or  professions  by  which  to  support  themselves  in  society. 
These  men,  too,  are  not  entitled  to  the  privileges  of  citizenship, 
and  they  must  beg  or  starve. 

According  to  the  Constitution  of  182S,  the  religion  of  the 
Republic  is  "the  Roman  Catholic  Apostolic.  The  nation  pro- 
tects it  by  all  the  means  that  conform  to  the  spirit  of  the  Evan- 
gelist ;  and  will  not  permit  the  exercise  of  any  other."*  A  simi- 
lar article  is  found  in  the  Chilian  Constitution,  of  May,  1833. 

In  both  countries,  the  question  of  religious  toleration  gave 
rise  to  very  considerable  discussion  of  an  animated  character. 
The  arguments  against  toleration  were,  that  it  gives  rise  to  a 
multiplicity  of  religious  sects ;  that  these  give  rise  to  Deism  and 

*  Constitution  del  Peru. 


328  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

irreligion  ;  and  adduce  in  proof  of  it,  the  state  of  religion  in 
France  during  the  revolution  ;  the  religious  persecutions  in 
England,  particularly  against  the  Roman  Catholics  ;  and  the 
great  prevalence  of  irreligion  and  sectarian  fanaticism  in  the 
United  States.  That  the  state  of  religious  opinion  in  Chile  and 
Peru  does  not  require  it,  because  all  their  citizens  are  Catholics ; 
and  though  it  be  not  proper  to  persecute  any  man  for  opinion's 
sake,  as  God  alone  is  the  ruler  of  the  conscience,  it  is  thought 
proper  that  any  person  who  endeavors  to  make  proselytes  to  a 
new  faith,  should  be  banished  the  territory  forever.  In  the 
case  of  only  two  sects  in  a  state,  there  is  danger  of  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  state,  or  of  one  of  the  religious  parties  ;  in  proof  of 
which  is  adduced  the  bloody  wars  of  the  Jews  against  the 
Polytheists,  and  the  Moors  against  the  Spaniards.  To  avoid 
religious  discord  and  contention,  the  United  States  resolved,  at 
the  formation  of  the  government,  to  tolerate  all  sects,  but  to 
protect  none  more  than  another.  The  uniformity  of  religion 
tends  to  the  consolidation  of  states,  and  toleration  is  of  no  ad- 
vantage to  a  society  where  one  opinion  or  sect  prevails,  &c. 

A  pamphlet  published  in  Chile  thus  concludes  :  "  I  should 
not  omit  to  remark,  that  some  of  the  tolerant  party,  convinced 
of  the  civil  and  moral  dangers  occasioned  by  a  diversity  of  re- 
ligions in  a  state,  have  proposed  to  follow  the  example  of  North 
America,  and  declare,  constitutionally,  that  there  is  no  religion 
of  the  state  ;  that  is,  that  the  social  body  has  no  kind  of  worship 
by  which  to  adore  the  Supreme  Being.  We  admit,  that  in  a 
federal  system,  where  each  sovereign  state  has  its  respective 
religions,  it  is  almost  necessary  that  the  general  government 
should  not  declare  itself  for  any  one  in  particular  ;  it  is  certain 
that  this  free  will  cannot  prevent  convulsions,  where  the  sects 
are  few;  irreligion,  if  many  ;  nor  the  spirit  of  corporation  and 
religious  party  from  mixing  in  political  movements.  But  may 
Heaven  never  permit,  in  Chile,  the  establishment  of  that  po- 
litical Atheism,  and  leave  this  nation  united  in  a  society,  with- 
out forms  or  worship  to  adore  God.  I  would  rather  inhabit 
Pagan  Rome,  where  I  should  sec  the  Consul,  surrounded  with 
triumphal  pomp,  humiliate  himself  before  Jupiter,  received  as 
the  God  of  the  Empire,  than  a  country  where  the  benefits  of 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  329 

Providence  are  acknowledged  in  taverns,  and  where  there  is 
no  national  God  to  implore  in  times  of  public  distress!" 

They  generally  look  upon  the  separation  of  the  church  from 
the  state  as  a  deplorable  mistake,  founded  in  a  false  spirit  of 
philosophy. 

Those  in  our  country,  who  seem  anxious  to  change  the  faith 
of  the  Catholics  in  South  America,  should  pause  before  they 
make  the  attempt,  and  consider  the  immense  evils  their  efforts 
may  bring  on  a  people,  who  have  already  suffered  much  on  ac- 
count of  religion.  The  learned  and  pious  amongst  the  clergy, 
are  anxious  for  religious  reformation,  and  correcting  the  many 
abuses  that  they  know  to  exist  in  the  church  ;  but  they  are  as 
unwilling  to  change  their  doctrine,  which  they  distinguish 
from  its  teachers,  as  any  of  the  many  sects  in  the  United  States, 
to  give  up  theirs  for  the  faith  of  the  Romish  church.  It  must 
not  be  forgotten,  that  the  people  of  South  America  are  Chris- 
tians, and  not  heathen,  nor  idolaters,  like  the  western  Indians, 
or  the  inhabitants  of  the  South  Sea  Islands.  I  fear  there  is  too 
much  truth  in  the  charge  of  the  prevalence  of  irreligion  in  the 
United  States.  There  is  a  broad  field  at  home  for  the  exercise 
of  missionary  laborers.  What  would  we  think  if  the  Peruvian 
church  should  send  tracts  and  missionaries  to  our  happy  coun- 
try, to  make  proselytes  to  the  Romish  church?  "Take  the 
beam  from  thine  own  eye,  before  thou  removest  the  mote  from 
that  of  thy  brother." 

Lately,  the  interesting  question  of  the  universal  supremacy 
of  the  Pope  over  the  Catholic  church,  has  given  rise  to  some 
learned  articles  in  the  newspapers,  and  an  erudite  pamphlet,  of 
216  pages,  by  the  author  of  "  Cartas  Peruanas,"  in  defence  of 
the  Christian  Primate. 

The  argument  against  the  Pope's  supremacy,  and  consequent- 
ly, of  the  independence  of  the  bishops,  turns  on  the  question, 
whether  Christ  gave  "  the  keys"  to  Peter  solely,  or  whether 
the  disciples  also  participated  in  the  gift.  The  articles  signed 
Desenganador,  in  the  papers  alluded  to,  insist  upon  it,  that 
Christ  gave  the  keys  to  all  the  disciples,  as  well  as  to  Peter,  and 
that  consequently,  as  they  received  them  under  the  same  in- 
junctions, Peter  could  be  in  uo  manner  superior  to  them. 
42 


330  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Against  this,  the  author  of  the  "  Cartas  Peruanas"  quotes  a 
host  of  the  holy  fathers, and  the  nineteenth  verse  of  the  sixteenth 
chapter  of  St.  Matthew; — "and  I  will  give  unto  thee  the  keys 
of  the  kingdom  of  heaven  :  and  whatsoever  thou  shalt  bind  on 
earth,  shall  be  bound  in  heaven  :  and  whatsoever  thou  shalt 
loose  on  earth,  shall  be  loosed  in  heaven ;■"  and  several  other 
passages  from  the  New  Testament,  which  I  have  not  time  to 
quote,  are  adduced  and  explained,  to  prove  that  St.  Peter  sole- 
ly was  charged  with  the  keys,  and  was  set  over  the  other  dis- 
ciples as  their  chief.  The  popes,  according  to  the  faith,  are 
the  successors  of  St.  Peter,  who  was  left  as  the  representative 
of  Christ  upon  earth ;  and  the  holy  bishops  are  the  successors 
and  representatives  of  (he  Apostles. 

Our  author  insists  that  the  destruction  of  the  supremacy  of 
the  Pope,  must  be  followed  by  the  destruction  of  Catholicism 
— that  the  church  is  a  unity,  and  its  separation  must  be  fol- 
lowed by  the  springing  up  of  various  sects,  discord,  contention, 
and  irreligion. 

The  following  pages, translated  from  this  well  written  pam- 
phlet, will  give  an  idea  of  the  manner  and  spirit  in  which  the 
Pope  is  defended,  by  the  author  of  the  "Cartas  Peruanas." 

Speaking  of  the  vices  alleged  against  the  popes,  he  says, 
"  Amongst  these  false  Catholics,  there  are  some,  who,  skim- 
ming over  the  annals  of  the  church,  instead  of  imitating  the 
sheep,  and  extracting  the  sweetest  juices  from  the  flowers,  re- 
semble flies  that  delight  in  filth  and  offensiveness.  They  col- 
lect the  sweepings  of  history  to  cast  upon  the  heads  of  the 
popes,  without  distinguishing  between  the  few  bad  ones  and  the 
multitude  of  those  who  have  shone  in  the  face  of  the  Universe 
— when  not  for  their  eminent  piety,  at  least  for  their  talents, 
their  integrity,  their  prudence,  their  zeal,  and  upright  inten- 
tion. 

"  Of  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  popes,  who  have  oc- 
cupied the  chair  since  St.  Peter,  how  few  are  they,  who  can 
in  reality  be  qualified  as  vicious  and  perverse  men  !  What 
throne  on  earth  presents  us  with  so  long  a  list  of  princes,  re- 
commendable  for  genius  and  virtue?  Let  us  hear  Bergier. 
<  The  charity,  the  heroic  fortitude,  the  humble  and  poor  life 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  331 

of  the  popes,  for  the  Ihree  first  ages,  are  attested  by  the  monu- 
ments of  history.  The  knowledge,  the  talents,  the  zeal,  and 
laborious  vigilance  of  the  fourth  and  fifth  centuries,  are  incon- 
testable, for  their  works  exist.  The  labors,  and  constant  en- 
deavors of  the  sixth  and  seventh,  to  diminish  and  repair  the 
ravages  of  barbarism,  to  save  the  reliques  of  the  sciences,  arts, 
laws,  and  customs,  cannot  be  called  in  doubt;  of  these,  their 
cotemporaries  bear  testimony.  What  the  popes  did  in  the 
eighth  and  ninth,  to  humanize  the  people  of  the  north,  through 
the  means  of  religion,  is  so  well  known,  that  the  Protestants 
have  not  been  able  to  conceal  it,  even  with  the  varnish  of  odi- 
um, except  by  poisoning  the  motives,  the  intentions,  and  the 
means  employed.  It  was  necessary  not  to  forget  what  the  popes 
did  in  the  ninth  century,  to  restrain  the  devastations  of  the 
Mahometans.  It  has  been  requisite  to  scrape  through  the  lees 
of  past  ages,  to  find  personages  and  deeds  that  could  be  black- 
ened at  discretion.  And  at  what  period  were  the  bad  popes? 
It  was  when  Italy  was  torn  by  petty  tyrants,  who  disposed  of 
the  See  of  Rome  at  their  will;  it  was,  when,  casting  out  its  le- 
gitimate possessors,  they  placed  in  it  either  their  children  or 
their  creatures.'* 

"But  even  in  the  ages  of  general  corruption  and  darkness, 
I  mean  the  tenth  and  the  eleventh,  how  much  are  the  majority 
of  the  popes  distinguished  above  the  commonalty  of  men,  not 
only  by  their  knowledge,  but  by  their  firm  and  untiring  zeal 
in  opposing  the  torrent  of  abuses  of  the  monarchs  and  people, 
in  extirpating  the  dominant  vices  of  simony  and  incontinency, 
in  reducing  the  clergy  everywhere  to  a  common  mode  of  living 
separate  from  the  age?  All  the  monuments  of  that  epoch,  bear 
testimony  to  the  fact,  and  amongst  them  may  be  reckoned  the 
Roman  Councils,  celebrated  in  1059  and  1063.  Of  the  thirty- 
three  popes  who  governed  the  church  in  the  twelfth  and  thir- 
teenth centuries,  there  is  not  one  who  did  not  do  honor  to  the 
Holy  See — not  one  whose  habits  were  reprehensible.  If  their 
pretensions,  and  the  mode  of  sustaining  them,  sometimes  caused 
disturbance  in  the  church,  the  purity  of  their  lives,  and  their 

*  Diccion.  Theol.  art.  Papa. 


332  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

zeal  for  discipline,  always  maintained  it.  In  the  order  of  polity 
and  government,  they  adopted  the  received  maxims  of  the 
times,  and  which  nobody  charged  as  unjust  or  excessive.  Some, 
as  Innocent  III.,  labored  in  correcting,  with  just  severity,  all 
the  vices  and  abuses,  particularly  that  of  venality,  of  which  the 
Roman  court  was  accused  ;  and  if  some  did  not  display  an  equal 
zeal,  their  tolerance  was  drawn  from  them  by  the  force  of  cir- 
cumstances, by  the  misfortunes  of  the  times,  and  by  the  ardu- 
ous nature  of  affairs,  which  it  was  necessary  to  commit  to  cer- 
tain hands,  and  which  none  but  the  most  pure  and  faithful 
were  capable  of  safely  conducting.  Taking  the  times  and  cir- 
cumstances into  consideration,  in  spite  of  their  political  errors, 
let  justice  be  rendered  to  their  personal  conduct,  and  to  their 
practice  of  those  obligations,  annexed  to  the  apostolic  ministry 
in  general,  and  better  popes  could  scarcely  be  desired. 

"Benedict  XI.  was  distinguished  for  his  virtues  in  the  begin- 
ning of  the  fourteenth  century  ;  and  if  among  the  seven  popes 
who  succeeded  him,  and  styled  '  de  Avignone,'  because  they 
translated  their  chair  to  that  city  in  France,  there  were  some 
chargeable  with  weakness  and  irregularities — exaggerated  by 
the  Italians,  who  could  not  pardon  their  absence  from  Rome — 
an  exact  and  impartial  judgment  must  confess  that  they  were 
almost  all  commendable  for  their  sublime  qualities,  for  the 
superiority  of  their  intellects  and  talents,  and  many  rendered 
their  names  venerable  by  the  sanctity  of  their  lives.  It  is  not 
strange,  that  those  who  figured  during  the  schism,  should  scan- 
dalize the  church  by  their  insatiable  avarice  to  possess  means 
to  sustain  their  party,  and  by  their  cruel  ambition,  that  made 
them  always  perfidious,  constantly  breaking  their  promise  of 
renunciation,  for  the  peace  of  the  church.  Such  intruders  do 
not  merit  the  name  of  Popes  ;  but  that  of  sanguinary  wolves, 
who,  without  compassion,  scattered  the  flock  of  the  Lord. 

"But  from  the  election  of  Martin  V.,  the  nine  Popes  that 
legitimately  succeeded  him  to  the  Papal  throne,  until  the  close 
of  the  fifteenth  century,  if  they  were  not  all  of  eminent  virtue 
and  unimpeachable  merit,  we  may  be  assured,  that,  with  the 
exception  of  the  two  last,  they  possessed  appreciable  qualities, 
which  did  not  render  them  unworthy  of  the  sublime  station 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  333 

which  they  filled.  Amongst  them  there  is  not  one  who  may 
not  be  admired  for  an  ardent  and  generous  zeal,  manifested  in 
the  defence  of  Christianity,  threatened  by  the  Turks,  and  who, 
in  this  respect,  did  not  merit  well  of  all  the  kings  and  nations 
of  Europe.  Though  it  was  their  duty,  as  well  as  their  desire, 
they  were  not  always  able  to  cause  a  reform  in  the  customs 
and  abuses  that  afflicted  the  interior  of  the  church.  Besides 
the  obstacles  met  with  in  their  own  court,  and  the  difficult  and 
extraordinary  state  of  things  that  produced  in  the  church  the 
great  schism  of  the  west,  they  found  many,  in  the  situation  of 
the  whole  of  Christian  Europe,  torn  by  internal  dissentions 
or  external  wars,  that  armed  nation  against  nation,  and  in  each, 
a  party  against  a  rival  faction,  without  observing  the  terms  of 
moderation,  or  the  first  maxims  of  humanity  !  In  the  midst  of 
so  many  difficulties,  and  all  the  excesses  of  ambition,  of  ven- 
geance, and  civil  fury,  to  which  the  Christian  nations  of  Eng- 
land, France,  Germany,  Poland,  Bohemia,  Hungary,  Spain, 
and  Italy,  had  given  themselves  up,  what  could  the  Popes  do 
in  favor  of  good  order  and  canon  law,  oppressed  as  they  were 
by  affairs,  surrounded  by  cabals,  and  obliged  to  defend  them- 
selves against  their  own  restless  vassals  and  powerful  usurpers? 
If  we  were  just,  we  would  not  censure  them  so  much  for 
not  having  done  good,  of  the  importance  of  which  they  were 
aware,  as  we  should  pity  them  for  not  having  been  able  to 
do  it. 

"From  Leo  X.,  that  is,  during  the  last  three  centuries,  Rome 
has  counted  thirty-six  Popes.  And  is  there  one  among  them 
whose  habits  are  not  free  from  censure?  And  how  few  are  not 
remarkable  for  talent,  knowledge,  elevated  sentiments,  or 
eminent  piety?  In  the  eyes  of  any  impartial  man,  Paul  III., 
Pius  V.,  Sixtus  V.,  Clement  VIII.,  Benedict  XIV.,  Pius  VI., 
Pius  VII.,  cannot  be  considered  either  as  mediocre  or  vulgar 
men. 

"  The  Protestant  historian  of  the  Life  and  Pontificate  of  Leo 
X.,  doubtlessly  was  not  entirely  exempt  from  prejudice;  but 
he  possessed  too  much  information  and  probity  to  avail  himself 
of  that  tone  of  injury  and  inflammation  against  the  Popes,  which 
has  become  so  common  amongst  some  who  call  themselves 


334  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Catholics.  Here  is  the  tribute  of  homage  which  he  renders 
them.  '  Few  Popes  have  ascended  the  Papal  throne,  who  were 
not  endowed  with  more  intellect  and  talents  than  are  common 
amongst  men.  Consequently,  the  Pontiffs  of  Rome  have  very 
often  shown  great  examples,  and  have  appeared,  in  the  highest 
degree,  protectors  of  the  sciences,  of  letters,  and  of  arts  ;  hav- 
ing, as  ecclesiastics,  devoted  themselves  to  those  studies  which 
were  interdicted  to  the  laity,  or  despised  by  them.  So  that 
we  must  consider  them  in  general  as  superior  to  the  age  in 
which  they  lived;  and  the  philosopher  may  justly  celebrate 
the  eloquence  and  force  of  Leo  I.,  that  saved  Rome  from  the 
fury  of  the  barbarian  Atira  ;  and  he  may  admire  the  candor, 
the  beneficence,  the  paternal  solicitude  of  Gregory  I.;  he  may 
wonder  at  the  diversity  of  the  knowledge  of  Silvestre  II.;  he 
may,  in  fine,  praise  the  ability,  penetration,  and  wisdom  of 
Innocent  III.,  of  Gregory  IX.,  of  Innocent  IV.,  and  of  Pius 
II.,  as  well  as  the  munificence  and  love  of  letters  that  distin- 
guished Nicholas  V.' 

"Why  is  it  that  Villanueva,  Pradt,  and  others,  whom  the 
Desenganador  follows  and  imitates,  do  not  weary  with  accusing 
the  Popes  generally,  of  ambition  and  avarice  ;  of  pride  and 
indolence  ;  of  interest  and  false  zeal  ;  of  injustice,  of  usurpa- 
tion, of  violence,  &c. ;  it  appears,  to  listen  to  them,  that  from 
the  time  they  belted  on  the  'tiara,'  they  laid  down  every  sen- 
timent of  morality,  to  follow  no  other  rule  than  that  of  their 
interests  and  passions  !  Why  do  they  spread  through  their 
writings  the  bitterest  bile  against  their  persons,  and  swear 
against  them  a  hatred  so  incarnate,  a  rage  so  implacable — as  if 
they  had  received  from  them  a  personal  injury  of  the  most 
atrocious  and  unpardonable  nature?*  Does  this  agree  with  the 


•  "It  is  true,  that  there  is  not  wanting  a  persona]  motive,  sufficient  to  excite 
the  eternal  babble  of  Pradt,  and  stir  up  the  black  bile  of  Villanueva  against  the 
Pope.  The  first  cannot  forget,  that  by  Pius  VII.  refusing  the  bulls  of  con- 
firmation to  the  tyrant  Napoleon,  while  held  captive  in  Savona,  he  was  de- 
prived of  the  Bishopric  of  Mal'mas,  to  which  he  had  been  named  ;  hence  his 
complaints,  and  his  endeavor  to  despoil  the  Pope  of  the  right  of  installing  the 
bishops;  availing  himself  f< it  this  purpose  of  all  the  sophisms  that  he  can 
imagine.     (See  Concord,  de  la  Amr.  con  Roma,  cap.  12.  y  nota  23 — .)     Nor 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  335 

truth  of  things,  or  with  the  Christian  philanthropy,  or  even 
with  the  philosophy  of  which  they  boast?  Tantsene  animis 
ccelestibus  irse!  Shall  we  suppose  that,  irritated  like  all  inno- 
vators, at  the  inflexible  rigor  of  the  Apostolic  See,  in  respect 
to  bad  or  dangerous  doctrines,  they  omit  nothing  to  make  it 
an  object  of  odium  and  contempt ;  and  that  they  hope  to  make 
the  affront  with  which  they  charge  the  Roman  Pontificate, 
recoil  upon  the  Pontiff  himself,  and  upon  the  church  that  re- 
verences him  as  its  chief? 

"  I  am  unwilling  to  say  it;  but  I  may  affirm,  that  the  course 
they  take  to  accriminate  the  popes  is  as  perfidious  and  tor- 
tuous, as  innovators  always  select; — to  bring  their  vices  in 
strong  relief,  and  dissimulate  their  virtues — to  be  delighted 
with  showing  the  excesses  and  abuses  of  power,  and  cast  a  veil 
over  the  immense  services  rendered  to  civilization,  to  letters, 
to  science,  the  arts,  and  all  humanity — to  exaggerate  the  rigor 
of  punishments,  without  taking  into  consideration  the  enormity 
nor  the  scandalous  nature  of  the  crimes  that  provoked  them — 
to  give  right  to  every  body  except  the  Pope — to  give  an  evil 
interpretation  to  the  most  laudable  actions  and  enterprises — to 
copy  all  that  has  been  thought  or  expressed  against  him  and 
his  authority  by  his  enemies  or  rivals — to  refer  to  the  facts, 
not  as  they  happened  in  reality,  but  as  they  relate  them;  or 
to  disfigure  them,  passing  over  in  silence  those  circumstances 
that  justify  them — wilfully  to  misunderstand  the  difference  of 
legislation,  of  customs,  of  the  genius  of  the  ages,  and  of  the 
people,  always  to  pass  sentence  against  the  Pope,  by  modern 
ideas  entirely  unknown  in  past  times — and  not  only  to  deplore 
abuses,  (which  is  allowable),  but  to  make  it  a  crime  for  the 
popes  to  have  at  all  participated  in  the  general  spirit  of  their 
times,  notwithstanding  that  in  the  midst  of  their  very  abuses, 
they  so  frequently  showed  themselves  superior  to  their  cotem- 

has  the  latter  been  able  to  pardon  the  same  Pius  VII.  for  refusing  to  receive 
him  near  his  person  and  court  as  Minister  Plenipotentiary  from  Spain,  or  what 
is  the  same  thing,  submit  to  his  insolent  and  seditious  discourses  against  the 
Apostolic  See,  or  allow  himself  to  be  insulted  to  his  face,  after  having  been 
insulted  so  often  in  public,  both  in  writing  and  viva  voce.  See,  Su  vida  literaria, 
escrita  por  si  mismo.  torn.  i.  cap.  Ixix.  y  siguientes." 


336  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

porarics,  which  ought  rather  to  have  excited  admiration  than 
bitter  and  impious  censure  !  Such  is  the  way  in  which  Villa- 
nueva,  above  all,  has  composed  his  libels,  in f amatory  as  re- 
gards the  person  of  the  Pope,  and  seditious  in  respect  to  the 
authority  of  the  See. 

"  I  would  say  to  them,  with  Melchor  Cano,  that,  discredit- 
ing the  Pope,  and  crying  for  that  reason  the  vices  of  the  court 
of  Rome,  even  if  they  were  ascertained,  they  imitate  the  in- 
solent Cam,  who  discovered  and  turned  into  jest  the  shame  of 
his  father!  Do  they  think,  in  this  manner,  to  render  honest 
their  perfidy  and  rebellion  against  the  common  father  of  Chris- 
tians? Let  them  remember,  (adds  the  same  learned  man),  that 
Jesus  Christ  shut  to  them  this  door,  saying,  '  The  Scribes  and 
Pharisees  sit  in  Moses's  seat;  all,  therefore,  whatsoever  they 
bid  you  observe,  that  observe  and  do ;  but  do  not  ye  after 
their  works.'  (Mat.  23,  2.)  The  zeal  which  ye  feign,  to  heal 
Rome  of  the  inveterate  hectic,  which,  according  to  you,  pene- 
trates to  the  bones,  ye  had  better  reserve  to  cure  the  pesti- 
lential gangrene  of  pride  and  rebellion  that  has  ulcerated  your 
hearts.  While  ye  are  internally  infirm,  ye  cannot  hope  to  see 
and  judge  of  things  as  they  are.  Does  Rome  scandalize  you  ? 
Review  other  courts,  all  tribunals,  the  episcopal  curacies;  in 
every  place  that  men  are  found  ye  will  find  incorrigible  abuses, 
incurable  vices.  For  this  then  will  it  be  necessary  to  throw 
off"  all  authority,  and  have  neither  pope,  nor  rectors  of  the  peo- 
ple, nor  magistrates,  nor  bishops  ?" 

Such  are  the  ideas  of  a  large  party  in  South  America.  Every 
means  to  preserve  the  church  and  the  purity  of  the  faith,  were 
resorted  to  by  the  governments  at  the  very  commencement  of 
the  revolution.  Living  as  we  do,  in  a  land  where  every  man 
is  at  liberty  to  follow  his  own  religious  inclinations  and  opin- 
ions, we  can  have  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  mightiness  of  Catho- 
licism when  united  to  the  political  government.  Nor  can  we 
perhaps  justly  appreciate  the  reasons  advanced  for  its  support, 
in  countries  where  but  one  religion,  or  rather  sect,  prevails; 
at  least,  not  till  we  take  into  consideration  the  mental  thral- 
dom in  which  the  people  have  been  held  by  the  edicts  and 
dogmas  of  the  Catholic  clergy.     The  veil  of  ignorance  that  so 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  337 

long  has  darkened  this  fair  portion  of  the  earth,  is  breaking 
away  before  the  rising  light  of  knowledge  ;  its  rays  have  pene- 
trated far  and  wide,  yet  there  is  much  still  to  clear  from  the 
darkness  of  superstition  and  the  influence  of  clerical  imposi- 
tion ;  and  there  is  reason  to  hope,  that  the  Catholic  church  will 
in  these  countries  be  freed  from  its  abuses,  and  the  faith  re- 
stored to  its  pristine  purity.  The  very  discussion  above  al- 
luded to,  may  possibly  result  advantageously  to  Christianity. 

By  many  in  the  United  States,  even  the  name  of  Catholic  is 
used  reproachfully;  but  when  we  see  men  of  talents  and  edu- 
cation yielding  to  forms  and  ceremonies  that  appear  idle,  let 
us  pause,  and  be  sure  that  we  understand  before  we  condemn 
them.  San  Martin,  the  Liberator  of  Peru,  received  instruc- 
tions from  the  Chilian  congress  to  hold  sacred  the  temples  of 
religion,  and  to  punish  any  of  those  under  his  command  who 
should  forget  the  duty  that  Christians  owe  to  their  God  ! 

Soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  revolution,  the  book- 
makers of  Europe  prepared  hasty  translations  of  the  most  im- 
pious books,  such  as  Volney's  Ruins,  the  writings  of  Thomas 
Paine,  &c,  with  a  host  of  lascivious  novels,  that  abound  in 
the  French  language,  and  brought  them  into  the  South  Ame- 
rican market.  Lima  was  full  of  them.  Instead  of  enlighten- 
ing, they  only  served  to  stir  up  the  passions,  and  fill  with 
doubts  a  people  b}r  no  means  prepared  to  think  on  abstract  sub- 
jects. To  prevent  the  diffusion  of  this  mental  poison,  several 
decrees  were  published  during  1823,  prohibiting  the  publica- 
tion of  any  article  in  the  gazettes,  "against  the  Holy  Scrip- 
tures, the  articles  and  dogmas  of  faith,  morality,  religion,  or 
the  essential  discipline  of  the  church." 

It  was  these  circumstances  that  gave  origin  to  the  "Cartas 
Peruanas,"  that  were  commenced  in  1822,  and  continued 
till  1825,  at  intervals.  In  1829,  they  were  collected  and  pub- 
lished together,  forming  a  well  written  work  on  the  evidences 
of  Christianity,  in  which  the  author  displays  a  great  deal  of 
erudition  and  industry.  He  is  said  to  be  a  canonigo,  named 
Moreno.  He  has  taken  up  and  answered  the  arguments  of  all 
the  most  distinguished  anti-religionists  of  France,  as  Voltaire, 
Rousseau,  Diderot,  &c. 
43 


338  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Arica — Appearance  from  the  anchorage — Mole — Advertisements — Streets — 
School — Water  and  provisions — Ancient  cemetery — Founding  of  Arica — 
Population — Products — Commerce — Guano. 


About  two  o'clock  P.  M.,  on  the  19th  September  1832, 
we  anchored  in  the  roadstead  of  Arica.  It  is  situated  in  18° 
28'  south  latitude. 

The  town  of  Arica  is  placed  under  a  high  sand  hill  and 
headland,  that  shelter  it  from  the  southerly  winds,  which  pre- 
vail nearly  throughout  the  year.  The  houses  are  white ;  and 
the  churches  and  belfries,  standing  on  the  high  ground  in  the 
rear  of  the  town,  give  it  a  neat  and  imposing  appearance  from 
the  anchorage. 

The  long  valley  of  Azapa,  running  inland,  with  clusters  of 
trees  in  the  distance,  and  the  town  at  the  entrance,  is  seen  from 
far  at  sea.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  gardens  and  trees  to 
the  left  of  the  town,  the  vale  is  entirely  naked  for  two  or  three 
leagues  back,  and  the  hills  that  rise  in  a  long  ridge  to  the  north 
and  south  to  form  it,  are  sandy  and  totally  barren,  not  afford- 
ing even  soil  enough  to  nourish  a  single  cactus.  The  morro  or 
headland  of  Arica,  which  is  a  prominent  bluff  of  rocks  and 
sand,  whitened  by  the  deposites  of  birds,  forms  a  very  striking 
landmark  in  approaching  the  port.  On  its  summit  is  erected  a 
wooden  cross,  which  is  said  to  be  eight  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.*  Not  far  from  the  base  of  the  morro,  is  a  low, 
flat  island  of  rocks,  also  whitened  with  similar  deposites  ;  be- 
tween this  islet  and  the  main  are  many  small  rocks,  rising  even 
with  the  surface  of  the  water,  amongst  which  the  breakers  are 

•  This  headland  was  sunk  by  an  earthquake,  in  September  1833  !    New 
York  Courier  and  Enquirer. 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  339 

constantly  rolling  and  foaming  with  great  violence.  About  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  north  is  the  anchorage,  which  is  pretty 
good,  though  but  slightly  protected  against  the  prevailing 
winds. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  landed  at  the  mole  and  breakwater, 
which  has  been  built  within  the  last  few  years.*  It  has  two 
or  three  flights  of  steps  for  embarking,  and  its  top  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wooden  rail  and  benches,  which  in  the  evening 
are  the  resort  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  town.  At  the  outer 
end,  is  a  small  box  to  shelter  the  custom  house  officers,  who 
are  constantly  on  the  alert  to  detect  and  prevent  smuggling. 
On  the  sides  of  this  watch  tower  were  pasted  several  written 
notices;  one  ordered,  that  no  boat  should  land  or  leave  the 
mole  before  sunrise,  nor  after  eight  o'clock  at  night,  and  it  for- 
bade any  person  to  go  afloat  at  any  time  without  a  written  per- 
mission from  the  captain  of  the  port,  or  the  head  of  the  custom 
house;  nor  are  balsas  to  be  afloat  either  before  sunrise  or  after 
sunset.  Another  was  the  quarantine  regulation  to  be  enforced 
against  all  vessels  from  Chile,  to  prevent  the  introduction  of 
scarlet  fever. 

We  found  the  streets  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles, 
but  narrow  and  dusty,  hot  and  dirty.  In  our  walk  over  the 
whole  town,  we  met  now  and  then  a  negro,  or  a  half  naked 
child  playing  in  the  dirt.  In  one  street  we  passed  a  house,  in 
which  was  a  small  school.  We  heard  a  dozen  ragged  children, 
of  various  castes,  color,  sex,  and  age,  standing  round  the  mis- 
tress, who  was  seated  on  the  floor,  singing  at  the  top  of  their 
voices,  in  a  nasal  tone,  a  set  of  aves,  which  appeared  to  form 
the  conclusion  of  the  afternoon  exercises. 

On  the  9th  November  1S31,  nearly  the  whole  place  was 
shaken  down  by  an  earthquake.  The  streets  seemed  desolate, 
and  many  of  the  houses  were  in  ruins  or  undergoing  repair. 
Most  of  the  buildings  are  but  one  story  high,  and  some  have 
flat  roofs,  and  others  have  them  made  of  adobes  and  arched. 


*  The  landing  is  dangerous  for  those  who  are  not  acquainted  with  the  very- 
narrow  channel,  which  is  surrounded  by  sunken  rocks  and  breakers. 


340  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Occasionally  there  falls  a  passing  shower ;  generally,  how- 
ever, there  is  nothing  but  a  giirua  or  mist  during  the  winter. 

This  is  the  only  one  of  the  many  towns  that  I  have  visited 
in  South  America,  in  which  there  is  no  billiard  table. 

With  some  labor,  vessels  may  obtain  here  very  good  water. 
There  is  a  narrow  stream  running  along  the  northern  side  of 
the  town,  planted  on  either  bank  with  young  willows;  to  ob- 
tain water,  it  is  necessary,  (on  account  of  rollers  and  the  rocky 
nature  of  the  shore),  to  roll  the  casks  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance to  the  watering  place.  Provisions  are  found,  of  the  same 
kinds,  and  at  about  the  same  rates,  as  at  Lima,  though  not  so 
abundant.  Beef,  however,  is  an  exception.  The  only  butcher's 
meat  usually  to  be  met  with  in  the  market,  is  mutton.  The 
fruits  and  vegetables  of  this  valley  are  the  same  as  those  of  the 
capital.  The  fertility  of  this  part  of  Peru  is  much  lauded  by 
the  Spanish  writers.  It  is  stated,  on  the  authority  of  Garcilaso, 
that  in  1556,  there  grew  a  radish  so  large,  that  five  horses 
were  sheltered  under  the  shade  of  its  leaves ! 

With  the  exception  of  agues,  that  prevail  during  one  season 
of  the  year,  the  place  is  healthy,  and  it  is  fortunate  for  the  in- 
habitants that  it  is  so,  for  the  curate  is  the  only  man  who  pre- 
tends to  any  knowledge  of  the  healing  art ! 

About  a  mile  from  the  town,  on  the  south  side  of  the  morro, 
is  a  cemetery  of  the  ancient  Peruvians.  There  is  one  path  to  it 
over  the  hill,  which  is  somewhat  laborious,  and  another  round 
the  base  of  "  Arica  Head,"  which  is  only  practicable  when  the 
tide  is  low. 

On  the  side  of  the  hill  are  found  the  graves  of  this  injured 
people,  indicated  by  hillocks  of  upturned  sand,  and  the  num- 
bers of  human  bones  bleaching  in  the  sun,  and  portions  of  bo- 
dies, as  legs  and  arms,  or  a  hand  or  foot,  with  the  dry  flesh 
still  adhering,  scattered  over  the  surface.  The  graves  have  been 
a  great  deal  dug,  and  many  bodies  carried  to  Europe  by  travel- 
lers. Some  boys  who  were  playing  about  the  place,  told  us  that 
an  "Ingles"  in  Tacna,  had  a  large  collection  of  them,  which 
he  is  constantly  increasing;  for  a  pair  of  these  mummies,  when 
perfect,  he  pays  a  doubloon. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  341 

We  dug  in  several  places,  without  being  able  to  find  any- 
thing. At  last  \vc  inquired  of  an  Indian,  who  was  fishing  with  a 
cast  net,  where  the  graves  were  found,  and  what  were  the  in- 
dications by  which  we  might  discover  them.  He  told  us  that 
there  were  none,  except  to  stamp  upon  the  ground,  and  dig 
where  it  sounded  hollow.  We  pursued  this  plan  with  consi- 
derable success. 

The  surface  is  covered  over  with  sand  an  inch  or  two  deep, 
which  being  removed,  discovers  a  stratum  of  salt,  three  or  four 
inches  in  thickness,  that  spreads  all  over  the  hill.  Immediately 
beneath,  are  found  the  bodies,  in  graves  or  holes,  not  more 
than  three  feet  in  depth. 

The  body  was  placed  in  a  squatting  posture,  with  the  knees 
drawn  up,  and  the  hands  applied  to  the  sides  of  the  head.  The 
whole  was  enveloped  in  a  coarse  but  close  fabric,  with  stripes 
of  red,  which  has  withstood  wonderfully  the  destroying  effects 
of  ages,  for  these  interments  were  made  before  the  conquest, 
though  at  what  period  is  not  known.  A  cord  was  passed  about 
the  neck  on  the  outside  of  the  covering,  and  in  one  case  we 
found  deposited  upon  the  breast  a  small  bag,  containing  five  little 
sticks  about  two  inches  and  a  half  long,  tied  in  a  bundle  by  two 
strings,  which  broke  in  our  efforts  to  open  the  bag.  A  native 
gentleman  told  me  that  drinking  vessels,  and  the  implements 
of  the  occupation  pursued  by  the  deceased  while  living,  as  bal- 
sas, paint  brushes,  &c,  were  frequently  found  in  these  graves.* 

Several  of  the  bodies  which  we  exhumed,  were  in  a  perfect 
state  of  preservation.  We  found  the  brain  dwindled  to  a  crumb- 
ling mass,  about  the  size  of  a  hen's  egg — perhaps  adipocire? 
The  cavity  of  the  chest  was  nearly  empty,  and  the  heart  con- 
tained what  seemed  to  be  indurated  blood,  which  cut  with  as 
much  facility  as  rich  cheese.  It  was  reddish  black.  The  mus- 
cles cut  like  hard  smoked  beef. 

Arica  was  founded  not  long  after  the  conquest,  though  at 
what  period  is  not  recorded.  It  is  2S0  leagues  from  Lima,  80 
from  Arequipa,  and  14  from  Tacna.  In  1579,  when  visited  by 
Sir  Francis  Drake,  in  the  Golden  Hind,  it  contained  only 

*  See  Calancha,  Herrera,  Garcilaso,  &c. 


342  THKEE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

twenty  houses  ;  and  though  two  centuries  and  a  half  have  since 
elapsed,  their  number  is  not  more  than  300,  and  the  population 
does  not  exceed  2,000  souls. 

Refore  the  revolution,  the  valley  produced  cotton,  wine, 
olive  oil,  maize,  and  aji,  (a  kind  of  red  pepper,  extensively 
used  by  the  Indians,)  amounting  in  all  to  $602,500,  for  the 
year  1791.*  It  was  also  rich  in  mules,  employed  in  the  traffic 
of  the  interior. 

Prior  to  the  birth  of  the  Republic  of  Bolivia,  all  the  trade 
with  that  country,  known  then  as  Alto-Peru,  passed  through 
Arica;  but  since  the  opening  of  Cobija,  the  commerce  has  di- 
minished in  proportion  as  it  advances  in  the  latter  place.  The 
prosperity  of  Arica  depended  very  much  on  that  trade,  which 
the  policy  pursued  by  the  government  of  Peru  has  lost.  All 
goods  intended  for  the  Bolivian  market,  are  charged  according 
to  their  class,  with  a  transit  duty  of  five,  ten,  and  fifteen  per 
cent.;  but  as  they  ean  now  be  introduced  directly  through  Co- 
bija, at  the  same  or  less  rates,  Arica  is  ruined.  The  population 
of  the  valley  is  too  small  to  create  a  demand  sufficiently  great 
to  maintain  wholesale  dealers  ;  consequently,  very  few  vessels 
touch  in  the  port. 

The  principal  exports  are  gold,  silver,  copper,  tin,  and  some 
few  chinchilla  skins,  that  pay  a  duty  of  four  per  cent,  on  a  va- 
luation of  two  dollars  per  dozen.  To  encourage  the  working  of 
mines  in  this  district,  gold  and  silver  are  allowed  to  be  export- 
ed, though  in  all  other  parts  of  the  republic  it  is  prohibited; 
gold  pays  a  duty  of  about  eighty  cents  the  ounce,  and  silver,  a 
dollar  the  mark  of  eight  ounces. 

There  is  a  coasting  business  carried  on  between  this  place 
and  Pabellon  de  Pica,  and  lquique,  which  are  some  leagues  to 
the  southward.  Small  vessels  load  at  those  places,  with  a  sub- 
stance called  Guano,  which  is  used  as  a  compost  in  almost 
every  section  of  the  coast  of  Peru;  in  many  places  the  soil 
being  entirely  unproductive  without  it. 

"  The  "guano  de  lquique,"  or  "  de  pajaros,"  according  to 


*  Mercurio  Peruano,  vol.  6.  p.  132. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  343 

tradition,  was  in  use  during  the  dynasty  of  the  Incas.  There 
are  various  opinions  respecting  the  nature  of  guano;  some  sup- 
pose that  it  is  a  mineral  production,  and  others,  that  it  is  simply 
an  accumulation  of  the  excrement  of  marine  birds.  The  im- 
mense quantities  that  are  consumed,  its  weight,  its  reddish  co- 
lor, the  length  of  time  and  immense  number  of  birds  required 
to  produce  the  great  quantity  that  exists,  are  rather  in  favor  of 
the  mineral  origin.  But  on  the  other  hand,  its  physical  and 
chemical  properties  incline  us  to  look  upon  it  as  an  animal  pro- 
duction. The  ammoniacal  odor  which  it  gives  off,  the  presence 
of  uric,  phosphoric,  and  oxalic  acids,  and  potass,*  its  color 
more  or  less  reddish,  according  to  its  exposure  to  the  atmo- 
sphere, the  identity  of  its  composition  with  that  of  the  "  guano 
bianco"  (white  guano,)  daily  produced,  similar  deposites  not 
being  found  in  the  interior,  not  being  in  strata  or  layers,  as  we 
should  expect  to  find  a  mineral  product,  having  found  in  it,  at 
certain  depths,  the  remains  of  birds,  and  cutting  instruments, 
used  by  the  ancient  Indians,  the  fact  that  the  guano  bianco  be- 
comes red  in  the  course  of  time,  are  sufficient  evidence  that  the 
guano  de  pajaros  is  an  animal  production. 

Of  this  substance  there  are  three  varieties ;  the  red,  the  dark 
gray,  and  the  white.  The  first  and  second  are  on  the  islands 
of  Chincha  (near  Pisco),  Iquique,  and  the  hill  of  Pabellon  de 
Pica. 

The  island  of  Iquique  is  the  place  whence  it  was  first  ex- 
tracted, and  hence  its  name  of  "guano  de  Iquique."  It  is 
about  four  hundred  yards  from  the  port  of  that  name  ;  it  is 
eight  hundred  yards  long,  and  two  hundred  broad  ;  and  was 
worked  for  twenty-five  years,  in  which  time  it  was  exhausted. 
About  thirty  years  since,  the  Piloto,  Reyes,  discovered  the 
guano  of  Pabellon  de  Pica,  which  is  situated  on  the  sea  shore, 
about  thirty  leagues  from  the  village,  and  eighty  from  the  port 
of  Mollendo.  This  hill  is  very  high  ;  the  sea  laves  its  base, 
which  consists  entirely  of  guano,  and  the  opposite  side  is  sand 
and  gravel ;  formerly  a  mine  was  worked  in  the  rock,  said  to 
be  of  silver,  but  no  indication  of  guano  was  met  with  in  the 
< 

*  According  to  an  analysis  made  by  MM.  Fourcroy  and  Vauquelin. 


344  THREE   TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

excavation.  The  neighboring  hills  on  both  sides  are  of  pure 
sand,  which  is  carried  by  the  winds,  and  deposited  on  and 
covers  the  guano.  The  guano  of  this  hill  is  about  a  quarter  of 
a  league  in  length,  and  about  three  hundred  varas  high.  To 
extract  it,  the  covering  of  sand  is  first  removed,  and  then  deep 
excavations  are  made. 

The  third  variety,  or  white  guano,  is  most  esteemed,  from 
being  fresh  and  pure  ;  it  is  taken  from  the  numerous  islands, 
lying  near  the  shore,  along  the  whole  Peruvian  coast.  These 
varieties  of  guano  have  several  prices;  the  red  and  dark  gray, 
being  more  abundant,  are  worth  ten  reales  (Si  25)  the  fanega 
of  250  lbs. ;  the  white,  from  the  port  of  Mollendo,  is  sold  at 
two  dollars  the  fanega,  and  during  the  war  it  rose  even  to 
seven. 

It  seems  incredible  that  these  guanos  could  be  deposited  by 
the  assemblage  of  birds  that  rest  together  during  the  night, 
but  wonder  ceases  when  we  consider  the  millions  of  them,  as 
the  Jirdeas  Phenicopteros,  or  flamingos,  that  rise  in  the  air 
like  clouds  of  many  leagues  in  extent,  and  that  the  deposites 
have  been  accumulating  perhaps  ever  since  the  deluge.  From 
the  islands  of  Islay  and  Jesus,  in  the  years  that  they  are  fre- 
quented by  many  birds,  four  and  five  hundred  fanegas  of  white 
guano  are  annually  obtained.  During  these  latter  years  their 
produce  has  been  very  small,  the  birds  having  absented  them- 
selves, from  the  unusual  heat  of  the  summers,  the  want  of 
food,  and  the  firing  of  guns  by  many  vessels  that  have  visited 
that  port.  The  proprietors  of  the  guanera,  or  guano  ground  of 
Jesus,  were  so  fully  persuaded  of  this,  that  they  obtained  ce- 
dulas  from  the  Court  of  Spain,  forbidding  the  entrance  of  ves- 
sels into  the  port,  and  the  birds  again  returned.  Since  the 
opening  of  the  port  of  Islay,  these  islands  have  not  yielded  a 
hundred  fanegas  a  year. 

Without  the  guano,  the  volcanic  and  sandy  soil  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Arequipa  is  almost  unproductive;  but  when  used,  it 
yields  in  potatoes  forty-five  for  one,  and  in  maize  thirty-five 
for  one.  It  is  so  active,  that  unless  watered  soon  after  it  is  ap- 
plied round  the  roots  of  the  plants,  it  dries  them,  or,  as  the 
country  people  say,  burns  them  up. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  345 

The  quantity  of  guano  yearly  employed  in  Peru,  is  estimat- 
ed to  be,  from 

Mollendo,      -  25,000  fanegas. 
Cocotea,          ...  6,000     " 

Chancay,        -  5,000     " 

Arica  and  Tarapacd,        -  5,000     " 


Total,  41,000  fanegas. 


The  above  account  is  taken  from  a  paper  on  the  subject, 
published  in  the  "  Memorial  de  Ciencias  Naturales,  y  de  In- 
dustria  Nacional  y  Estranjera,  edited  by  M.  De  Rivero  and 
N.  De  Pierola.  Lima.   Vol.  I.   1828." 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


Islay — Landing  place — Town — Arequipanian  ladies — Post-office  regulation — 
Notions  of  the  captain  of  the  port  about  politics. 


About  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  24th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1832,  we  anchored  in  the  roads  of  Islay.  The  charts  of 
this  part  of  the  coast  of  Peru,  are  far  from  being  accurate. 
This  port  is  laid  down  as  being  in  16°  44'  of  south  latitude, 
and  in  72°  40'  of  west  longitude  from  Greenwich.  The  true 
latitude  is  17°  1' — seventeen  miles  farther  south  than  marked 
in  the  charts  ;  and  the  longitude  is  72° — forty  minutes  to  the 
eastward  of  the  chart.  By  the  chart,  Arequipa  is  forty  miles 
from  Islay,  but  the  actual  distance  is  ninety.  Similar  errors 
are  found  in  several  places  along  this  region  of  Peru. 

The  land  to  the  north  and  south  is  barren  and  rocky,  and 
lower  than  it  usually  is  along  the  coast.     About  two  leagues 
back,  it  rises  to  a  very  considerable  height.  In  the  gullies  and 
44 


346  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

ravines,  are  large  white  patches,  consisting  of  ashes,  thrown 
out  many  years  since  from  a  volcano,  which,  from  the  sea, 
have  the  appearance  of  light  drifted  snow,  partially  melted. 

The  landing  place  differs  from  any  thing  of  the  kind  that  I 
have  seen  anywhere  on  the  coast.  The  shore  of  the  whole  bay, 
or  rather  roadstead,  is  bounded  by  irregular  rocks  about  two 
hundred  feet  high,  and  nearly  perpendicular  ;  so  that  even  if  a 
landing  be  effected,  their  top  is  almost  inaccessible.  At  the 
base  of  a  rocky  mass  with  square  faces,  rising  out  of  the  sea, 
and  about  ten  feet  high,  and  separated  from  the  main  by  a  nar- 
row channel,  there  is  a  floating  stage,  or  as  it  is  technically 
called,  a  camel.  A  horizontal  stage,  supported  by  stanchions 
and  chains,  juts  out  from  the  top  of  the  rock,  having  a  vertical 
shutter  or  midriff  floating  from  its  edge.  The  ascent  from  the 
camel  to  the  stage  is  effected  by  the  aid  of  a  rope  ladder  of 
some  six  or  eight  steps,  that  rests  against  the  shutter,  and  a 
pair  of  man  ropes  like  those  suspended  at  the  gangway  of  a 
ship.  On  the  stage  is  a  pair  of  shears,  with  a  tackle  for  hoist- 
ing and  lowering  goods.  A  path  mounts  from  the  stage  over 
the  rock,  and  is  continued  over  a  short  wooden  bridge,  that 
connects  it  with  the  main. 

The  site  and  neighborhood  of  Islay  is  a  barren  plain,  gently 
rising  from  the  sea.  About  two  leagues  back,  the  surface  is 
covered  with  green  vegetation,  and  suddenly  rises  to  a  height 
of  about  three  thousand  feet.  The  summits  of  these  hills  were 
so  constantly  hidden  in  clouds,  that  we  got  a  glimpse  of  them 
only  once  or  twice  while  here.  Near  their  base  are  some  groves 
of  olive  trees. 

In  1829,  this  spot,  cheerless  as  it  is,  was  purchased  by  the 
government,  for  building  the  seaport  of  Arequipa,  which  was 
previously  reached  from  Quilca  and  Mollendo,  which  are  now 
closed. 

Notwithstanding  that  the  ground  is  broken  by  deep  gullies, 
the  town  is  very  regularly  laid  out.  The  huts,  for  they  do  not 
merit  the  name  of  houses,  are  one  story  high  ;  the  roofs  are 
pitched,  covered  with  rush  mats,  and  stand  with  the  gable  end 
to  the  street.  The  walls  are  made  of  willow  poles,  brought 
about  fourteen  leagues,  driven  into  the  ground,  closely  toge- 


NOTICES  OF  rEKU.  347 

ther,  and  lined  on  the  inside  with  mats  similar  to  those  of  the 
roofs.  The  floors  are  also  of  mats.  From  the  great  pitch  of  the 
house-tops,  T  was  led  to  inquire  whether  it  rained,  and  learned 
that  there  is  only  an  occasional  drizzle.  Such  is  the  general 
architecture  in  this  new  port,  excepting  the  custom-house, 
which  is  two  stories  high,  and  some  two  or  three  wooden 
buildings  occupied  by  foreigners.  The  church,  which  stands  on 
one  side  of  the  plaza,  is  a  large  frame,  bearing  a  striking  like- 
ness to  an  old  weather  beaten  barn.  Near  it  is  a  pair  of  shears, 
made  of  three  poles,  from  which  are  suspended  three  small 
bells  ;  strips  of  raw  hide  hang  from  the  clappers,  by  which 
simple  contrivance  (and  it  is  adopted  all  over  South  America) 
the  necessity  of  turning  the  bell  over  to  ring  it  is  completely 
avoided.  The  only  exterior  ornament  is  a  wooden  cross  fixed 
on  its  top.  Through  the  joinings  of  the  door,  we  perceived 
that  the  floor  was  tiled,  and  the  interior  neat  and  clean.  On 
the  door  was  pasted  a  notice  nearly  to  the  following  effect 

"  We,  the  Bishop  of  Arequipa,  desirous  of  affording  to  all 
faithful  Christians  opportunities  of  prayer,  and  availing  our- 
selves of  our  power  delegated  from  his  Holiness  the  Pope,  do 
grant  to  the  port  of  Islay  an  indulgence  of  forty  days,  provid- 
ed that  its  inhabitants  prostrate  themselves,"  &c. 

Well,  said  I  to  the  captain  of  the  port,  suppose  that  the  in- 
dulgence had  not  been  granted,  what  difference  could  it  make 
to  the  place.  He  shrugged  his  shoulders,  drew  down  the  cor- 
ners of  his  mouth,  and  replied,  "ninguna" — none. 

"Of  what  benefit  is  it  to  the  people?" 

"Ninguna  puez,  but  they  suppose,  if  any  one  who  accepts 
of  the  indulgence  die,  he  will  escape  from  purgatory  in  one 
half  of  the  time  allotted  for  his  stay  there,  which,"  said  he  with 
a  knowing  smile,  "  is  a  consideration  !" 

We  next  found  a  billiard  table,  where  a  negro  and  a  white, 
both  genteelly  dressed,  were  playing;  and  I  learned  that  the 
first  was  a  doctor,  and  the  latter  an  alcalde.  Besides  this  place 
of  public  resort,  there  are  two  or  three  tippling  shops,  with 
signs  over  the  doors,  representing  the  union  of  the  flags  of  Pe- 
ru, Chile,  England,  and  the  United  States,  which  are  all  temp- 
tations for  sailors,  and  being  clanish  in  their  notions,  they  are 


348  TIIREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

easily  taken  by  the  bait.  If  Jack  only  spies  his  own  bunting  in 
the  picture,  it  is  enough,  and  he  seldom  cares  to  notice  any- 
thing further. 

When  we  called  on  the  captain  of  the  port,  we  were  courte- 
ously received  by  his  lady,  who  appeared  at  the  door,  smoking 
a  cigar.  We  found  in  the  room  a  very  pretty  collection  of 
books,  which  is  quite  an  unusual  sight  in  these  places.  It  con- 
sisted mostly  of  novels;  amongst  them  were  translations  of 
Ivanhoe,  the  Talisman,  two  cantos  of  Byron's  Don  Juan, 
Franklin's  works,  and  several  treatises  on  marine  and  military 
tactics. 

Islay  is  at  present  quite  gay,  and  presents  as  busy  a  scene  as 
may  be  imagined,  for  a  place  containing  no  more  than  eight 
hundred  or  a  thousand  inhabitants.  There  is  a  number  of  fami- 
lies here  from  Arequipa,  where,  at  this  season,  I  am  told  it  is 
disagreeable  and  unhealthy.  The  ladies  are  amusing  themselves 
in  this  inhospitable-looking  place,  by  bathing,  and  promenad- 
ing the  hills.  To  judge  from  the  specimen  here,  the  Arequipe- 
nas  are  rather  pretty :  they  are  remarkably  small,  and  have 
black  eyes,  clear  skins,  fine  hair,  and  dear  little  feet ! 

When  we  returned  to  the  boat,  we  found  the  whole  world 
assembled  round  a  seal  that  had  been  just  shot,  and  laid  on  the 
bridge  before  mentioned.  The  governor  and  the  captain  of  the 
port,  with  their  ladies,  were  amongst  the  crowd.  The  news  of 
the  phoca  ran  through  the  town,  and  curiosity  soon  brought 
all  the  ladies  in  the  place  around  it.  They  took  this  opportuni- 
ty of  seeing  the  progress  made  in  removing  the  stones  from  a 
spot,  surrounded  by  perpendicular  rocks,  which  is  intended  for 
a  bathing  place.  Some  of  the  ladies  were  finely  dressed,  and 
wore  beautifully  embroidered  shawls,  and  large  filigree  combs, 
with  the  hair  tastefully  supported  by  them;  others  were  in  dis- 
habille, with  red  baize  shawls  over  the  shoulders,  and  the  hair 
plaited  in  two  braids,  hanging  down  the  back,  and  some  wore 
round  hats  of  Manila  or  Guayaquil  manufacture.  All  were  scru- 
pulously nice  about  the  feet.  They  were  cased  in  silken  hose 
and  white  satin  shoes,  which  did  not  seem  exactly  adapted  to 
the  dust  and  rocks  of  the  streets.  When  they  turned  up  the 
hill  towards  the  town,  we  could  not  but  admire  the  turn  of 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  349 

many  a  pretty  foot  and  ankle,  which,  from  the  shortness  of  the 
dresess,  were  disclosed  even  unto  the  garters! 

The  commerce  of  Islay  is  very  limited.  During  the  two  past 
years,  only  three  American  merchant  vessels  have  anchored  in 
the  roads.  The  trade  is  chiefly  English.  At  present  there  are 
two  English,  and  one  French,  merchantmen,  and  a  French  fri- 
gate, with  one  or  two  guano  traders,  in  the  port.  It  is  supposed 
that  the  commerce  will  increase,  when  the  port  of  Arica  is 
closed,  which  has  heen  for  some  time  contemplated  by  the  go- 
vernment. 

The  following  decree,  given  to  me  by  the  captain  of  the  port, 
was  pasted,  with  several  others,  signed  by  the  Prefect  of  Are- 
quipa,  against  the  side  of  his  house.  One  prohibited  the  firing 
of  rockets  on  feast  days,  and  another  forbade  bull-baiting,  as  a 
barbarous  and  inhuman  sport,  suited  only  to  the  uncivilized. 

"  Peruvian  Republic — Ministry  of  government,  and  of  fo- 
reign affairs — House  of  government  in  Lima.  January  4 
1832— 13/A. 

"  To  the  Prefect  of  Arequipa  :— 
"Sir,— 

"  By  supreme  order,  and  under  the  necessary  responsibility, 
I  herewith  enclose  you  an  authorized  copy  of  the  supreme  de- 
cree, issued  June  2d  1S22,  that  you  may  cause  it  to  be  strictly 
conformed  to:  for  in  spite  of  its  having  been  frequently  re-issued, 
the  revenue  of  the  post  office  has  diminished  to  such  an  extent 
that  it  is  not  sufficient  to  meet  the  expenses  of  that  depart- 
ment. 

"With  this,  1  will  also  advise  you  to  take  especial  care  that 
no  subversive  papers  be  introduced  into  this  department ;  for 
the  law  which  governs  the  press,  should  not  allow  the  impor- 
tation of  any,  that  may  not  be  printed  with  impunity  within 
the  territory  of  the  republic. 

"I  mention  this  to  you,  for  the  purpose  indicated  by  the 
express  command  of  His  Excellence  the  President — May  God 
protect  you. 

"Matias  Leon." 


350  THREE   VEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"THE  SUPREME  DELEGATE, 

"I  HAVE  ACCORDED  AND  DECREED. 

"  1st.  That  so  soon  as  any  vessel  shall  anchor  in  any  port 
of  the  state,  from  whatever  place  she  may  proceed,  her  captain 
or  supercargo  shall  notify  the  passengers,  that  they  may  de- 
liver the  letters  which  they  may  bring,  with  those  in  charge 
of  the  captain  or  supercargo,  to  the  captain  of  the  port,  or  in 
his  absence,  to  the  sub-delegate  of  marine  ;  in  order  that  they 
may  be  remitted  to  the  general  administration  of  the  post  office, 
or  to  the  chief  of  the  department,  to  which  the  port  appertains, 
with  a  list  of  the  letters,  signed  by  the  captain  of  the  vessel, 
and  by  him  who  may  receive  them. 

"  2nd.  If  any  letters  shall  contain  bills  of  exchange  or  other 
interesting  documents,  the  same  shall  be  noted  by  whoever  re- 
ceives them,  at  the  bottom  of  the  list  mentioned  in  the  pre- 
vious article,  relying  on  the  statement  of  the  captain  or  super- 
cargo. 

"  3d.  The  captain,  supercargo,  or  passenger,  in  any  vessel, 
who  shall  infringe  the  first  article,  shall  incur  the  penalty  of 
five  hundred  hard  dollars,  for  every  letter  he  shall  fail  to  de- 
liver as  therein  expressed. 

"4th.  Whoever  shall  inform  of  the  infraction  of  the  said 
article,  proving  that  any  letter,  even  of  recommendation,  has 
been  delivered,  shall  receive  one-half  of  the  fine,  and  his  name 
shall  not  be  disclosed. 

"5th.  Travellers  by  land,  who  may  carry  letters  from  one 
point  to  another  of  the  free*  territory,  are  equally  obliged  to 
deliver  them  to  the  administration  of  the  post  office,  on  arriv- 
ing at  the  place  of  their  destination,  under  the  penalty  of  fifty 
dollars  for  every  letter  they  shall  fail  to  deliver  into  that  office. 

"  6th.  Loose  copies  of  this  decree  shall  be  printed,  and  the 
officer  charged  with  its  execution  shall  give  one  to  the  captain 
or  supercargo,  so  soon  as  he  shall  arrive  in  any  port,  and  the 
guards  at  the  gate  shall  give  them  to  those  coming  from  be- 
yond this  capital,  that  nobody  may  allege  ignorance. 

•  Meaning,  not  occupied  by  the  Spanish  armies ;  this  decree  having1  been 
first  promulgated  during  the  revolution. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  351 

"7th.  From  these  general  rules  is  only  excepted  official 
correspondence,  directed  to  any  of  the  constituted  authorities, 
which  may  be  delivered  directly  to  them.  So  soon  as  the  pre- 
sent, decree  is  inserted  in  the  official  gazette,  it  shall  be  con- 
sidered as  circulated  to  the  administrators  of  the  post  office 
revenue,  to  the  director-general  of  marine,  to  the  sub-delegates 
of  that  direction,  and  to  captains  of  ports,  that  each  one  re- 
spectively may  take  care  of  the  punctual  observance  of  what 
is  in  it  ordered. 

"Given  in  the  palace  of  the  Supreme  Government  in  Lima 
—4th  of  June  1S22-3. 

(Signed)         "Torre  Tagle. 
"By  order  of  His  Excellence, 

"Bernardo  Monte agudo. 
"  Copy — Rio. 

"Arequipa,  1S32." 

After  reading  the  decree,  I  told  the  captain  of  the  port  that 
such  laws  were  hardly  in  accordance  with  the  institutions  that 
should  adorn  a  free  republic,  nor  were  the  reasons  set  forth  in 
the  preamble,  very  feasible  to  account  for  the  diminution  of 
the  revenue,  since  it  was  a  natural  consequence  that  corres- 
pondence must  diminish,  when  commerce  was  interrupted  by 
war  and  onerous  duties. 

He  answered,  it  was  very  true  ;  but,  he  continued,  the  object 
of  the  decree  was  not  revenue,  as  set  forth,  but  to  prevent  the 
introduction  of  any  gazettes  or  papers  containing  articles 
against  General  Gamarra  or  his  administration.  He  stated, 
that  he  was  authorized  to  open  any  letter  or  packet  containing 
papers,  and  if  they  contained  any  thing  that  might  be  con- 
strued as  subversive  of  the  government,  to  destroy  them.  He 
added,  that  very  lately  he  had  burned  a  large  number  of  papers 
of  that  character,  forwarded  by  General  La  Fuente  from  Chile, 
to  different  persons  in  Peru. 

I  told  him  how  matters  are  managed  in  our  country,  and 
how  free  was  the  expression  of  public  opinion. 

He  observed,  in  reply,  "  You  are  a  different  people  from  us 
— you  are  educated,  and  have  been  independent  for  fifty  years 


352  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

— though  composed  of  many  states,  they  move  on  harmoniously 
together.  We  are  made  up  of  seven  departments  or  provinces, 
and  the  inhabitants  of  one  are  against  those  of  the  others.  The 
Cuzcanian  abhors  the  Limanian  and  the  Arequipanian  both. 
Our  population  is  a  heterogeneous  mass  of  negroes,  sambos, 
mulattoes,  mestizos,  Indians,  and  whites;  the  latter  are  fewest 
in  number,  and  the  Indians  most  numerous.  All  the  castes 
set  themselves  against  the  whites,  and  the  Indian's  hand  is 
against  them  all.  The  greater  part  of  the'population  is  ignorant, 
and  incapable  of  judging  of  its  rights.  The  government  is  now 
establishing  schools,  and  it  is  to  the  rising  generation  that  we 
look  for  a  proper  constitution  and  laws.  We  are  not  like  the 
United  States — her  freedom  would  not  suit  us.  Our  people 
are  passionate,  and  ignorant,  and  ready  to  follow  the  standard 
of  any  plausible  leader,  who  chooses  to  lure  them  by  fair  pro- 
mises and  the  abuse  of  the  existing  authorities.  Newspapers, 
which,  in  the  United  States,  are  the  great  means  of  propagating 
knowledge  and  correct  opinions  on  almost  every  subject,  are 
not  appreciated.  Even  men  of  the  better  classes  live  without 
knowing  what  is  going  on  around  them — even  official  news- 
papers are  but  little  read,  and  foreign  gazettes  are  unheard  of. 
For  this  reason,  inflammatory  articles  have  very  extensive  in- 
fluence upon  the  people.  It  is  therefore  necessary,  for  the 
tranquillity  of  the  republic,  to  keep  factious  and  party  papers 
out  of  their  way." 

"Your  commerce  is  declining." 

"  Yes !  and  our  ports  are  in  ruin  ;  but  the  present  congress 
is  thinking  of  lowering  the  duties,  and  we  hope  that  it  will 
again  revive." 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  353 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Pisco,  from  the  anchorage — Landing — Ancient  Pisco — Town — A  ride— Salinas 
— Commerce — Captain  of  the  Port. 


On  the  29th  of  September  1832,  we  anchored  opposite  to 
Pisco,  about  two  miles  from  the  shore,  and  in  four  fathoms  of 
water.    Lat.  13°  46'  S.    Long.  76°  12'  W. 

From  the  anchorage,  the  broad  valley  presents  an  undulat- 
ing champaign  country,  extending  several  leagues  in  every  di- 
rection, and  covered  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  with  olive 
groves,  palmettos,  and  shrubbery.  The  white  spires  and  fanes 
of  the  town  were  seen  in  relief  against  the  sides  of  the  blue 
Cordilleras,  magnificent  in  their  snow-crowned  summits,  and 
rich  in  hidden  treasures  of  gold  and  silver.  They  stand  far 
from  the  coast,  but  still  oppose  their  blue  cloud-like  sides  to 
the  view.  Their  outline  was  penciled  against  the  vault  of  hea- 
ven ;  they  looked  the  beneficent,  genii  of  South  America,  in- 
viting the  clouds,  the  vapors,  the  rain,  and  the  snow  ;  and 
receive  their  gloom,  their  torrents,  their  frost  and  cold,  upon 
their  own  devoted  heads,  and  thus  defending  the  thousand 
valleys  at  their  feet,  pour  down  their  streams  to  fertilize  those 
valleys,  which  are  as  their  children. 

We  found  the  landing  easy,  though  it  is  occasionally  diffi- 
cult ;  when  the  wind  is  fresh,  several  large  rollers  form  them- 
selves in  lines,  and  tumble  one  after  the  other  on  the  beach, 
with  so  much  force  as  to  upset  or  fill  the  boats  that  attempt  to 
land. 

Some  hundred  and  fifty  years  since,  Pisco  stood  where  the 

sea  now  breaks  ;  and  even  now,  the  tide  does  not  ebb  beyond 

the  ruins  of  the  ancient  town.     To  the  right  of  the  landing  is 

an  old  fort  and  some  ruined  stores,  that  were  destroyed  by  the 

45 


354  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

patriots  who  landed  here  in  September  1821.  A  large  store- 
house and  a  few  huts  stand  upon  the  shore,  the  town  of  Pisco 
being  about  a  mile  from  the  sea,  where  it  was  built  soon  after 
the  earthquake  of  16S2.  At  that  time,  the  sea  retired  for  a 
considerable  distance,  and  again  returning  with  immense  vio- 
lence, submerged  the  whole  town  ;  and  remained  a  quarter  of 
a  league  beyond  its  former  limits. 

When  we  landed,  we  found  the  captain  of  the  port  ready  to 
receive  us  ;  he  plead  indisposition  for  not  having  visited  us, 
and,  to  use  a  Spanish  expression,  he  politely  "franked  us  his 
house,"  and  offered  us  horses  to  ride  to  town  ;  but  we  prefer- 
red walking,  as  the  morning  was  pleasant,  and  the  distance 
short.  On  our  way,  we  saw  several  ruins  of  ancient  Pisco, 
and  in  the  neighborhood  several  huacas  or  mounds  of  the 
aborigines.  It  is  supposed  that  the  race  of  Indians  which  in- 
habited this  section  of  the  country  previous  to  the  conquest, 
was  very  poor,  as  nothing  has  ever  been  found  either  in 
their  huacas  or  in  their  graves,  though  diligent  examinations 
have  been  made. 

The  town  of  Pisco  is  small,  and  bears  a  sufficient  resem- 
blance to  Lima  to  mark  it  as  a  dwarfish  offspring  of  the  same 
parent.  As  at  Lima,  buzzards  and  carrion  birds  are  constantly 
sailing  about  in  the  air  above  it*  It  contains  a  convent  of  the 
order  of  San  Francisco,  which  is  now  closed,  from  want  of 
funds  to  maintain  its  friars.  The  architecture  of  the  churches 
and  dwellings  is  similar  to  that  in  most  of  the  towns  along  the 
coast  of  Peru.  The  Cathedral,  or  rather  the  lglesia  Matriz, 
occupies  all  the  eastern  side  of  the  plaza  ;  it  has  a  tower  at 
each  corner  of  its  front,  an  oval  roof,  and  a  dome  at  the  back. 

Being  Sunday,  the  streets  were  gay  ;  and  several  well  fur- 
nished stores  of  the  place  were  open.  Many  heaps  of  fruit, 
shaded  by  mats  supported  on  poles,  lay  in  a  line  across  the 
plaza.  Mules  and  asses  were  moving  in  every  direction, 
bearing  riders  in  holy-day  suits.  The  negress  moved  in  her 
calico  gown  and  jaunty  flounces,  with  a  well  glazed  hat  of 
Manila  straw,  barefoot,  though  not  without  the  ornament  of  a 
flower.  The  negro  sauntered  about  in  his  big  bottomed  "  hia- 
tus ;"   the  gay  miss  advanced  towards  the  church  wilh   una- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  355 

sured  step,  in  her  saya  y  manto,  followed  by  a  little  negress 
bearing  the  rug  upon  which  her  mistress  bowed  the  knee  be- 
fore her  saint,  and  sent  her  oraisons  to  heaven. 

The  hours  of  prayer  had  scarcely  passed  away,  before  the 
ear  was  saluted  with  the  tones  of  the  guitar  and  rude  harp; 
the  sounds  of  moving  feet,  the  laugh,  and  all  the  noise  of  jolly 
mirth. 

On  the  fourth  day  of  October  we  took  a  ride  into  the  coun- 
try. We  visited  a  vineyard,  which  covers  more  than  a  hun- 
dred acres,  where  black  grapes  only  are  grown,  but  the  vines 
were  not  very  carefully  tended.  From  the  black  grape,  large 
quantities  of  pisco  or  aguardiente  (brandy)  are  distilled  in  this 
Department,  and  exported  to  different  parts  of  Peru.  We  left 
the  vineyard  and  passed  over  an  extensive  formation  of  chalk, 
through  which  a  channel  or  canal  was  cut,  many  centuries  ago, 
by  the  aborigines.  A  bridge  of  chalk  was  left  for  the  purpose 
of  crossing.  A  little  further  on,  we  came  to  the  Salinas  or  salt 
beds.  The  surface  looked  as  if  it  had  been  boiled  and  suddenly 
cooled,  leaving  little  ridges  running  over  it  in  every  direction. 
We  rode  at  least  a  league  on  the  salt,  when  we  came  to  a  spot 
where  several  men  were  cutting  it  into  cakes  of  about  two  feet 
long,  one  broad,  and  about  six  inches  thick.  Where  the  salt 
had  been  taken  out,  there  were  ponds  of  water  of  a  reddish  color, 
and  indeed  the  whole  may  be  compared  to  a  frozen  lake  with 
holes  cut  into  it.  Although  almost  any  amount  of  salt  is  ob- 
tainable, the  expense  of  conveying  it  to  the  coast  is  so  great 
that  the  Salinas  cannot  be  worked  with  profit.  This  salt,  like 
all  that  found  along  the  coast,  is  so  contaminated  with  nitre, 
lime,  and  magnesia,  that  it  is  unfit  for  preserving  beef  or  any 
kind  of  meat. 

Not  far  from  the  Salinas  is  an  extensive  sugar  estate,  known 
by  the  name  of  Caucato.  Before  the  revolution  it  was  worked 
by  twelve  hundred  slaves,  but  since  that  period  it  has  gone 
almost  to  ruin,  and  the  slaves  are  reduced  to  less  than  five 
hundred,  and  who  are  not  at  all  subordinate.  There  are 
several  mills  upon  it  for  grinding  the  cane,  which  are  worked 
by  oxen  ;  the  only  water  mill  is  now  out  of  repair.  They 
were  making  a  brown  sugar  of  an  inferior  quality,  termed 


356  TIUIEE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

"chancaca,"  which  is  used  in  the  manufacture  of  syrups  and 
sweetmeats.  The  sugar  of  Peru  is  generally  put  up  in  large 
loaves  of  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  and  wrap- 
ped in  flag  mats  covered  with  coarse  bagging.  Chile  is  its  only 
foreign  market ;  and  since  the  heavy  duty  of  three  dollars  the 
arroba,  or  twelve  dollars  the  hundred,  has  been  imposed,  that 
is  destroyed,  and  many  of  the  sugar  estates  of  Peru  are  conse- 
quently fast  going  to  decay.  On  this  estate  there  is  also  a  soap 
apparatus,  with  copper  vats,  one  of  which  is  so  large  as  to 
give  S00  quintals,  equal  to  80,000  pounds,  of  hard  soap,  at  a 
boiling!  It  has  not  been  in  operation  since  the  revolution. 

The  chief  exports  from  Pisco  are  sugar,  olives,  dates,  aguar- 
diente, and  Italia,  a  very  pure  brandy,  of  a  peculiar  odor  and 
flavor,  resembling  that  of  peach  leaves.  It  takes  its  name  from 
the  grape  from  which  it  is  made.  The  aguardiente  is  put  up  in 
jars  containing  from  ten  to  twenty  gallons  ;  of  these  about 
18,000  are  annually  exported  and  consumed  along  the  coast. 
The  country  about  lea,  the  capital  of  the  province,  yields 
some  wine,  but  of  a  very  indifferent  flavor.  A  duty  of  three 
reales  in  paper*  is  paid  on  every  arroba  of  spirits  exported,  and 
three  reales  in  silver  on  wine. 

During  our  stay  here,  we  found  the  captain  of  the  port,  and 
indeed  all  those  we  became  acquainted  with,  very  courteous 
and  hospitable.  The  captain  was  inclined  to  be  intelligent  on 
some  points,  but  prejudiced  and  opinionated  on  others.  His 
family  was  amiable,  and  his  daughters,  though  living  in  a  one 
story  building,  with  a  ground  floor,  and  with  no  other  furni- 
ture than  a  rough  table  and  a  half  dozen  high  backed  chairs 
with  leather  seats,  always  received  us  kindly,  and  presented 
us  with  flowers,  the  odor  of  which  they  were  careful  to  en- 
hance by  sprinkling  them  with  Cologne  water! 

At  the  captain's  house  we  met  an  "old  Spaniard,"  who  had 
resided  a  number  of  years  in  different  parts  of  Peru,  and  who 
was  very  intelligent  and  agreeable  in  conversation.  Speaking 
of  the  Peruvian  ladies  one  day,  he  said,  "that  during  sixteen 
years  he  had  not  heard  of  a  single  happy  marriage  with  fo- 

•  Custom  house  bonds. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  357 

reigners,"  and  supposed  that  it  arose  from  difference  of  educa- 
tion. The  husband  was  annoyed  by  the  frivolities  and  expen- 
sive amusements  of  his  wife,  or  by  her  loose  manner  of  con- 
versation, for  there  are  few  Limanians  who  are  not  fond  of 
vulgar  allusions  and  broad  jests,  too  disgusting  to  repeat,  and 
some  even  go  so  far  as  to  enjoy  a  practical  joke  of  the  kind. 
But  he  added,  that  though  the  ladies  were  accused  of  looseness 
of  morals  and  inconstancy,  he  had  not  known  one  to  go  astray 
who  was  united  to  a  foreigner  of  any  respectability ! 

Speaking  with  the  captain  of  the  port  about  the  political 
state  of  the  country,  and  more  particularly  of  its  relations 
with  Bolivia  and  Chile,  he  observed,  that  he  believed  the 
object  of  the  dissentions  with  Bolivia  were  to  make  General 
Santa  Cruz  President  of  Peru,  for  all  the  states  of  South 
America  looked  towards  Peru  with  a  jealous  eye,  as  being 
the  favorite  child  of  nature,  abounding  in  capital,  and  mineral 
wealth ! 

Not  long  since,  it  was  thought  that  Peru  could  grow  within 
itself  sufficient  wheat  for  its  own  consumption  ;  therefore  a 
very  heavy  duty  was  imposed  upon  that  imported  from  Chile, 
with  the  view  of  encouraging  its  cultivation  at  home.  The 
Chilians  became  indignant,  and  reciprocated,  by  imposing  a 
duty  of  twelve  dollars  per  quintal  on  the  importation  of  Peru- 
vian sugars.  The  Peruvian  Congress  then  proposed  to  admit 
into  their  ports  all  foreign  vessels  at  reduced  duties,  on  condi- 
tion of  not  touching  previously  in  the  Chilian  ports.  The 
Peruvians  and  Chilians  now  view  each  other  with  a  jealous 
eye,  and  mutually  apply  very  harsh  epithets  ;  the  first  say 
that  the  latter  are  a  set  of  savages,  who  were  not  civilized  till 
after  the  revolution,  and  they  are  mean  spirited  enough  to  ape 
the  English  and  Americans  in  whatever  they  do — "  Siendo 
Inglez  o'  Norte  Americano,  basta  para  que  entre  en  la  socie- 
d&d  de  Chile" — To  enter  the  society  of  Chile,  it  is  enough  to 
be  an  Englishman  or  North  American.  The  Chilians  charge 
the  Peruvians  with  ignorance,  immorality,  arrogance,  and 
want  of  hospitality.  The  Peruvians  reply,  that  they  cannot 
even  speak  Spanish  with  propriety ;  that  they  are  a  set  of 
drawlers,  &c. 


358  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

I  asked  the  captain  of  the  port  if  lie  had  received  the  circu- 
lar relative  to  the  post  office,  which  I  had  seen  at  Islay.  He 
mid  "Yes,  but  as  it  was  promulgated  at  a  time  when  nobody 
ruled — when  Bolivar,  Torre  Tagle,  and  Monteagudo,  were  all 
heads  of  the  government,  and  nobody  subordinate,  and  as 
Pisco  was  not  a  port  of  entry,  he  did  not  trouble  himself 
about  it!" 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Guarmey — Ferrol — Samanco — Nepeiia. 

On  the  24th  of  April  1833,  we  sailed  from  Callao,  and  on 
the  26th,  at  ten  o'clock,  anchored  in  the  Bay  of  Guarmey.  It 
is  a  mere  indentation  of  the  coast,  and  is  situated  in  ten  degrees 
and  five  minutes  of  south  latitude,  and  fifty-nine  and  a  half 
minutes  of  longitude  west  of  Callao.  It  is  of  easy  ingress  and 
egress,  and  the  anchorage  is  said  to  be  good.  The  land  to  the 
southward  is  sterile  and  precipitous.  After  doubling  round  the 
point,  the  eye  is  relieved  by  an  agreeable  contrast;  for  then  the 
valley  comes  into  view,  covered  with  the  bright  green  foliage 
of  algarrobo  and  espino  trees,  which  grow  about  twenty  feet 
high.  A  small  rivulet  empties  into  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  bay,  where  vessels  may  take  in  a  supply  of  fresh  water, 
without  much  difficulty.  The  river  is  from  three  to  four 
feet  deep,  and  about  twenty  yards  in  breadth.  It  has  several 
branches,  some  of  which  pass  through  beds  of  saline  earths,  or 
salt-licks,  that  yield,  by  lixiviation  and  evaporation,  nitre  and 
marine  salt.  The  earth  which  has  been  lixiviated  and  deprived 
of  its  nitre, is  exposed  for  a  twelvemonth  to  the  atmosphere,  and 
again  affords  nearly  an  equal  quantity  of  that  important  article. 
The  rationale  of  its  formation,  is  far  from  being  satisfactory,  if 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  359 

we  are  obliged  to  look  to  animal  remains  for  the  nitric  acid 
which  is  contained  in  the  nitre.  The  original  formation  might 
be  attributed  to  that  cause,  for  the  whole  vicinity  has  been 
formerly  a  cemetery  of  the  aborigines  ;  but  how  the  earth,  after 
it  has  been  exhausted  of  nitre,  regains  it  by  simple  exposure 
to  the  air,  is  a  problem  which  I  am  not  prepared  to  solve. 

The  salt  is  said  to  be  too  strong  for  the  purpose  of  preserving 
meat ;  and  sealers  say  that  it  is  so  caustic  as  to  destroy  the  seal 
skins  salted  with  it.  The  extraction  of  nitre  at  this  place,  has 
been  but  recently  commenced,  but  promises  to  be  a  lucrative 
business.  At  present  its  only  market  is  Lima. 

The  chief  export,  after  the  nitre,  is  fire-wood  (the  espino,) 
which  is  sold  at  Callao  at  a  dollar  per  quintal — at  Guarmey,  it 
is  worth  two  reales  and  a  half. 

Near  the  beach,  were  long  piles  of  wood,  from  which  two 
or  three  small  craft  were  loading.  Two  or  three  ranchos  of  flag 
mats,  were  the  only  habitations  about  the  landing.  The  town 
of  Guarmey  is  about  two  miles  from  the  bay,  situated  in  the 
midst  of  a  thickly  growing  forest  of  espino  and  algarrobo  trees. 
A  single  broad  street,  kept  remarkably  clean,  forms  the  vil- 
lage ;  the  houses  are  constructed  of  flag  mats,  or  reeds,  plastered 
over  with  mud  ;  the  chapel,  which  stands  at  one  end  of  the 
street,  and  two  or  three  dwellings,  are  built  of  adobes.  As  we 
walked  through  the  town,  the  children  that  were  sprawling 
about,  or  playing,  got  up  and  gazed  at  us,  either  with  the  thumb 
stuck  in  the  mouth,  or  twirling  their  hands  behind  them;  the 
women,  whose  ugliness  was  remarkable,  came  to  the  doors, 
and  at  least  fifty  lank  and  worthless  curs,  broke  the  silence  by 
their  attacks  upon  us.  The  whole  place  had  an  air  of  coolness 
and  cleanliness,  that  are  unusual  in  the  small  towns  along  the 
coast,  for  every  house  was  very  nicely  whitewashed.  Guarmey 
contains  about  three  hundred  inhabitants,  all  of  whom  are  In- 
dians or  sambos,  with  the  exception  of  a  dozen  whites.    The 

only  foreigners  are  General  E ,  with  three  or  four  men, 

assisting  him  in  his  nitre  works. 

So  soon  as  we  anchored,  I  landed,  in  company  with  Lt 

A .    We  followed  the  stream,  and  one  or  two  of  its 

branches,  crossed  some  lagoons,  shooting  ducks  and  water  hens 


360  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

as  we  proceeded.  We  saw,  during  our  walk,  a  small  flock  of 
flamingos,  whose  feathers  were  unusually  deep  colored  and 
brilliant. 

On  our  way  along  one  of  the  branches  of  the  rivulet,  we 
came  upon  two  Indians,  catching  "camar&nes,"  or  prawns; 
each  was  armed  with  a  small  hoop-net,  which  they  swept  under 
the  bank,  and  scooped  out  from  two  to  twenty  at  a  time.  Their 
trowscrs  were  rolled  above  the  knee,  and  they  waded  through 
the  water  with  the  least  noise  possible. 

A  little  further  on,  we  met  an  old  Indian  carrying  a  rude 
iron  axe  upon  his  shoulder.  He  saluted  us  with  a  smiling  face ; 
and  halting,  looked  at  our  guns  with  an  expression  of  curiosity. 
He  directed  us  with  his  hand  to  a  branch  of  the  stream  where 
we  would  find  plenty  of  game;  for  which  kindness,  we  gave 
him  a  porter  bottle  that  we  had  just  emptied,  an  article,  in  this 
part  of  the  world,  not  easily  procured  by  the  lower  classes; 
gourds  of  different  forms  being  dried,  and  used  as  substitutes. 
"Dios  le  pague  mi  patron" — may  God  pay  you,  my  palron, 
said  he,  when  he  received  it,  with  an  inclination  of  the  head. 
We  continued  on  our  course,  and  he  turned  upon  his  heel,  and, 
in  our  company,  retrod  the  path  which  he  had  just  traversed. 
He  made  many  inquiries  about  the  guns,  and  was  very  curious 
in  examining  the  percussion  locks  and  caps.  Presently  he  dis- 
appeared, but  soon  returned  with  a  large  gourd  of  chicha,  which 
we  found  very  acceptable,  and  quite  as  excellent  as  we  were 
led  by  fame  to  expect  the  chicha  of  Guarmey  to  be.  After  we 
had  clone  honor  to  his  gourd  in  deep  potations,  he  led  us  to 
a  spot  where  the  sand  had  formed  a  flat  in  the  river,  which 
was  shaded  by  rocks  and  trees.  Two  women  were  seated  on 
the  bank,  preparing  prawns  for  a  meal ;  they  took  off  the  shell, 
and  threw  them  into  a  gourd  ;  a  plentiful  supply  of  lime  juice 
was  squeezed  over  them,  and  some  salt,  which  was  broken 
from  its  bed  not  far  off,  was  then  added.  In  the  meantime,  a 
young  man  was  upon  his  hands  and  knees,  blowing  a  lire  made 
of  faggots,  to  heat  some  stones,  which  were  to  be  thrown 
amongst  the  "  camar&nes,"  to  cook  them.  Besides  this  dish. 
they  had  a  quantity  of  small  dried  fish,  and  a  gourd  of  "  mate," 
and  several  of  chicha. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  361 

After  taking  a  second  potation  of  chicha,  and  leaving  them 
a  small  gratification,  we  left  this  pic-nic  party,  and  followed 
the  path  towards  the  town,  which,  however,  we  lost  in  the  sand, 
and  ascended  a  high  sandy  hill,  from  whose  summit,  where 
there  are  some  Indian  ruins,  after  some  difficulty  we  descried 
the  village,  almost  hidden  in  trees,  and  after  a  toilsome  walk 
succeeded  in  reaching  it,  though  we  were  near  passing  it 
when  not  more  than  a  hundred  yards  off.  We  stopped  in  a 
small  pulperia,  where  we  found  a  quantity  of  new  cheeses 
hung  up  over  head,  and  a  supply  of  pisco,  bread,  and  chicha. 
Having  refreshed  ourselves  with  these,  and  well  pleased  with 
the  hospitality  of  the  old  woman  who  kept  the  shop,  we  re- 
turned on  board  with  our  game  bags  filled  with  ducks,  water 
hens,  and  wild  pigeons. 

Not  far  from  the  landing,  are  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  fortress; 
and  in  fact  the  valley  is  crossed  by  the  vestiges  of  a  wall, 
which  it  is  supposed  was  built  by  the  Grand  Chimu  in  his  last 
war  with  the  Incas.  This  war,  which  was  one  of  religion, 
ended  in  the  complete  subjugation  of  the  empire  of  that  valiant 
chief. 

On  the  27th  of  April,  we  again  weighed  anchor,  and  set 
sail  for  the  bay  of  Samanco ;  but  passed  it  at  night;  and  about 
ten  o'clock  the  next  morning,  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Ferrol. 
This  bay  is  two  leagues  from  Santa,  and  about  five  from  the 
port  of  Samanco.  Ferrol  is  a  beautiful  bay,  completely  shut 
in  by  two  or  three  rocky  islands  at  its  mouth,  and  is  about 
seven  miles  long  and  four  broad.  At  its  northern  extremity 
is  a  small  Indian  village,  containing  about  five  hundred  inha- 
bitants, called  Chimbote;  and  also  several  springs  of  fresh 
water,  accessible  to  boats,  for  watering  ships.  The  bay  is 
only  visited  by  sealers,  and  occasionally  by  smugglers.  The 
rocks,  during  certain  seasons,  are  completely  covered  with 
seals,  which  are  taken  in  great  numbers.  The  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  bay  is  separated  from  that  of  Samanco  by  a  flat 
neck  of  sand,  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  extending 
from  the  main  to  a  large  morro  or  headland,  forming  in  part 
the  northern  cape  of  Samanco.  Ferrol  bay  is  in  9°  7'  south 
latitude  and  78°  3'  west  longitude.  The  extent  of  the  bay  of 
46 


362  THREE  FEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

Samanco,  which  is  not  laid  down  on  the  charts,  is  as  extensive 
as  that  of  Ferrol,  hut  not  so  smooth,  nor  so  well  defended  from 
the  sea.  Fire  wood,  sugar,  and  rice,  are  carried  in  small  coast- 
ing vessels  to  the  Lima  market,  but  even  this  trade  is  very  li- 
mited. 

"We  left  the  ship  about  eleven  o'clock,  and  pulled  to  the 
southern  end  of  the  bay,  distant  about  three  miles  from  the 
anchorage,  and  dragged  the  boat  across  the  sand,  which  we 
found  covered  with  dead  shells,  and  bones  of  marine  animals. 
Alarmed  by  our  landing,  a  very  large  flock  of  flamingos  rose, 
and  sailed  away  through  the  air  with  an  infinite  grace,  while 
a  party  of  buzzards,  less  timid,  only  moved  off  a  few  yards, 
and  when  we  had  passed,  returned  to  their  carrion  feast. 

Our  boat  being  launched  on  the  waters  of  Samanco,  we  pulled 
across  to  what  is  termed  the  port,  a  distance  of  at  least  seven 
miles.  When  near  the  beach,  we  perceived  a  flag  rancho, 
built  a  few  yards  from  the  water,  on  a  knoll  of  sand,  which  is 
in  a  kind  of  gorge  formed  by  high  rocks  rising  on  either  side. 
Several  dogs  ran  out  and  set  up  a  loud  barking,  at  least  ten  mi- 
nutes before  we  reached  the  shore.  On  the  beach  were  several 
pieces  of  iron  machinery,  and  a  sun-dried  boat.  Our  boat  was 
drawn  up  "high  and  dry,"  and  the  oars  &c.  carried  to  the 
rancho  and  deposited. 

The  front  of  the  rancho,  which  is  about  ten  feet  wide,  was 
sheltered  from  the  sun  by  the  roof  projecting  in  advance  of  the 
wall,  forming  a  kind  of  corridor.  The  whole  was  built  of  cane 
and  flags  or  bulrushes.  Beneath  this  shade  we  met  an  elderly 
woman,  of  the  sambo  caste,  in  a  calico  gown.  Panchita,  as  she 
is  called,  was  seated  on  a  low  stool,  shelling  corn,  and  at  the 
same  time  quieting  a  young  child  extended  in  her  lap.  On 
her  right  was  a  shelf  or  counter,  filled  with  bottles  of  aguar- 
diente, gourds  of  chicha,  and  some  cheese  and  onions;  on  her 
left,  were  overturned  gourds  of  different  sizes,  and  several  cats 
and  dogs  lying  together  in  familiar  confusion.  On  one  corner 
of  the  counter  was  the  "  Guia  de  los  Fieles" — Guide  of  the 
Faithful — and  a  mutilated  copy  of  the  incomparable  adventures 
of  Don  Quixote,  that  in  appearance  had  been  very  frequently 
thumbed.     The  interior  of  this  dwelling  was  small,  and  appa- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  363 

rently  comfortless.  In  one  corner  was  a  bed,  in  which  one 
of  Panchita's  two  sons  was  lying  sick  with  a  disease  of  the  skin. 

Though  the  widow  Panchita  was  so  nearly  alone,  she  re- 
plied quietly  to  our  salutation,  while  she  continued  her  em- 
ployment, nor  did  she  evince  the  least  surprise  at  our  visit 

We  had  a  letter  for  a  Mr.  C ,  and  we  inquired  the  way 

of  reaching  that  gentleman's  hacienda  or  estate.  She  told  us, 
that  Guacatambo,  the  name  of  the  hacienda,  was  at  least  three 
leagues  distant,  and  she  had  no  "  bestias"  to  hire,  nor  had  she 
any  body  to  send  to  the  estate  to  bring  us  horses.  We  sug- 
gested, that  the  boy,  Jacinto,  who  was  standing  by,  might  go 
on  the  "burro"  that  was  tethered  before  the  door,  amusing 
himself  with  a  bundle  of  grass;  but  Panchita  said,  that  Jacinto 
was  the  only  aid  she  had;  and  added,  that  we  might  get  horses 
at  Guambacho,  which  was  only  a  league  and  a  half  off,  and 
that  we  might  walk  there  in  a  little  while.  After  some  per- 
suasion, she  consented  that  Jacinto  should  mount  the  donkey 
and  act  as  our  guide,  which  the  little  fellow  seemed  right  glad 
to  do. 

We  acted  on  the  widow's  suggestion,  and  the  whole  party, 
boat's  crew  and  all,  set  off  for  the  pueblo  of  Guambacho.  The 
sun  was  powerfully  hot,  and  the  road  deep  in  sand,  which  in- 
creased the  heat  by  its  reflection.  The  country  is  wild  and 
uncultivated,  covered  with  thorn  bushes  and  a  few  algarrobo 
trees. 

We  found  the  distance  a  long  league  and  a  half,  and  indeed 
we  were  afterwards  informed  that  it  rather  exceeded  two. 
When  we  entered  Guambacho,  the  whole  pueblo  was  assem- 
bled at  one  rancho,  drinking  chicha  and  making  merry,  be- 
cause it  was  Sunday.  The  houses,  or  rather  ranchos,  are  some 
six  or  eight  in  number,  and  the  whole  population  cannot  ex- 
ceed fifty  souls.  The  men  had  drunk  enough  to  make  their 
speech  a  little  thick,  and  to  enlarge  their  hearts.  The  women 
were  less  affected  by  the  drink,  and  all  gave  us  a  hearty  wel- 
come. We  made  known  our  desire  to  hire  horses  for  Guaca- 
tambo, which  they  told  us  was  about  a  league  distant,  but  all 
said  there  were  no  horses  to  be  had.  There  were  two  horses 
and  a  mule  standing  by  the  rancho,  and  one  of  the  men  said 


364  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

he  would  hire  his  animal  for  four  reales,  a  second  offered  his  for 
six,  hut  a  third  declared,  that  he  would  not  let  his  animal  go 
for  less  than  a  dollar,  and  at  last  refused  to  hire  the  beast  for 
any  consideration  whatever.  All  at  once  he  had  business  on 
his  chacra,  and  must  be  off,  but  at  last  agreed  to  accompany 
us  to  the  hacienda.  The  sailors  were  to  remain  at  Guam- 
bacho,  and  make  out  the  best  way  they  could.  Our  party  con- 
sisted of  three,  but  the  owners  of  the  "bestias"  would  not 
consent  to  trust  the  animals  to  our  care,  and  insisted  upon 
accompanying  us.      A   small   boy  was   mounted   behind   Lt 

D ,  and  a  man  behind  Mr.  B ,  who  was  on  the 

mule  without  a  saddle ;  I  was  on  a  horse,  with  a  youth  named 
Manuel  seated  behind  me  on  a  pillion. 

While  we  were  bargaining  for  the  horses,  we  inquired  for 
the  alcalde,  with  the  view  of  enlisting  his  services  in  our  favor. 
An  old  Indian,  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  secured  at  the  wrists  with 
silver  buttons,  seated  in  the  group,  was  pointed  out  by  one  of 
the  party  as  the  person  inquired  for  ;  he  arose  on  being  address- 
ed, and  acknowledged  himself  to  be  the  alcalde,  but  regretted 
very  much  that  it  was  not  in  his  power  to  force  the  owners  to 
hire  their  horses,  unless  we  had  "un  papel  del  gobierno" — a 
paper  from  the  government ;  in  that  case  he  would  furnish  as 
many  horses  as  might  be  desired,  but  he  doubted  whether  we 
could  do  better  than  take  up  with  the  "bestias"  before  us, 
because  he  did  not  think  there  were  any  more  in  the  "  pueblo." 

Manuel,  who  was  behind  me,  was  a  light  young  man,  of  a 
copper  colored  complexion.  His  eyes  were  black,  but  lack 
lustre,  and  his  whole  form  promised  great  activity,  for  though 
small,  his  limbs  were  well  proportioned.  He  wore  a  white 
shirt  and  trowsers,  and  a  straw  hat,  which  were  all  extremely 
degenerated  in  color  by  dirt.  When  talking,  he  was  perfectly 
nonchalant,  and  his  countenance  at  no  time  betrayed  anything 
like  emotion  or  feeling  of  any  kind  ;  his  face  was  as  expression- 
less as  parchment. 

We  set  off,  but  had  not  ridden  more  than  a  hundred  yards, 
before  the  mule  kicked  up  and  threw  both  riders  to  the  ground, 
and  trotted  away  into  the  bushes,  to  the  infinite  amusement  of 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  ,  365 

our  friends  at  the  rancho.     Mr.  B then  got  up  behind 

our  third  companion,  after  making;  the  boy  dismount. 

After  riding  about  a  mile,  bewailing  our  ill  accommodation, 

Mr.  B asked  Manuel  for  his  pillion.    "En  que  voy  yo 

puez  ?" — On  what  shall  I  go  then  ?  asked  Manuel  in  return. 

"Why,  ride  on  the  bare  back,  as  I  do  !" 

"  ^Y  como  voy  yo  gustarmelo  mejor  que  Vmd-? — How  am  I 
going  to  like  that  better  than  you  ? 

"But  my  pantaloons  will  be  soiled." 

"  Y  tambien  los  mios — ^  y  que  me  importa  &  mi  si  se  ensu- 
cien  los  pantalones  de  Vmd>  o'  no?" — And  mine  too — and  what 
is  it  to  me  whether  your  pantaloons  are  soiled  or  not  ? — So 
Manuel  remained  obstinate,  and  my  friend  was  compelled  to 
ride  on. 

Guacatambo  was  reached  after  a  ride  of  a  league  through 
bushes  and  stunted  algarrobo  trees.  We  found  a  single  house, 
built  of  adobes,  standing  in  a  barren  spot,  with  two  or  three 
common  ranchos  near.  A  number  of  dogs,  some  pointers, 
hounds,  and  degenerate  curs,  came  forward  to  meet  us.  The 
"mayordomo,"  almost  as  immoveable  as  Manuel  himself, 
and  three  or  four  slaves,  were  sitting,  or  rather  sprawling,  be- 
fore the  door,  in  idleness.     Amongst  them  was  a  sprightly 

mulatto,  from  whom  we  learned  that  Mr.  C was  "en 

la  sierra" — in  the  mountains — and  that  the  horses  were  all 
"en  el  monte"  (a  common  thickly  overgrown  with  bushes 
and  small  trees.)  Disappointed  in  getting  horses  here,  we  ap- 
pealed to  Manuel,  and  endeavored  to  persuade  him  to  accom- 
pany us  to  Nepena,  but  in  vain.     Mr.  B said  he  would 

keep  the  other  horse,  to  which  Manuel  made  no  objection, 
but  replied,  "entonces  me  voy" — then  I  am  going — and, 
walking  his  horse  up  to  where  the  other  was  standing,  struck 
it  so  smartly  with  the  plaited  end  of  his  bridle,  that  Manuel 
and  both  horses  went  off  at  full  gallop,  leaving  us  to  get  back 
the  best  way  we  could.  Though  exercised  at  our  expense,  we 
could  not  but  laugh  at  the  dexterity  of  Manuel,  who  shouted 
from  the  edge  of  the  woods,  as  he  disappeared,  "  Adios !  Ca- 
balleros,  Adios !" 

It  was  near  sunset,  and  we  began  to  think  seriously  of  eat- 


366  THREE   YEARS  IN   THE    PACIFIC. 

ing,  but  on  requesting  the  "mayordomo"  to  give  us  some 
bread  and  cheese,  he  replied,  "  pan  no  hay,  my  patron" — there 
is  no  bread,  my  patron.  Disappointed  in  this,  we  found,  in 
one  of  the  ranchos,  a  copper  pan,  half  full  of  broiled  ribs  of 
pork,  and  a  gourd  of  boiled  corn,  which  the  slaves  had  pre- 
pared for  their  suppers  ;  we  partook  of  the  food  thus  thrown 
in  our  way,  and  when  our  appetites  were  appeased,  the  mu- 
latto brought  us  animals  to  proceed  to  Nepena,  whither  he  vo- 
lunteered to  be  our  guide. 

It  was  dark  when  we  mounted  on  two  donkeys  and  a  mule, 
the  guide  riding  with  me  on  the  latter  animal.  The  road  or 
path  wound  in  almost  every  direction  through  a  "monte," 
sometimes  plunging  into  close  thickets,  and  again  emerging 
into  open  spots,  with  here  and  there  a  lone  algarrobo,  or  thorn 
bush,  that  cast  a  long  shade  over  the  ground,  as  the  moon  was 
just  rising.  The  distance  is  two  leagues,  and  it  was  nine  o'clock 
when  we  entered  the  streets  of  the  village  of  Nepena. 

When  we  rode  into  the  plaza,  every  thing  was  still,  save  a 
party  of  men  and  women  who  were  singing  and  dancing  to  the 
tinkling  of  a  guitar  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square.  The 
moon  was  shining  clear  and  bright.  We  alighted  at  the  house 
of  the  curate,  for  whom  we  had  a  letter  of  introduction,  but 
he  was  not  at  home.  Several  persons  came  forward  to  see  us, 
and  we  learned  with  satisfaction  from  one  of  them,  that  Mr. 
C had  returned  the  previous  evening  from  the  "  Sier- 
ra." He  soon  made  his  appearance,  and  carried  us  off  to  the 
house  of  his  friend,  Don  Jose  Manuel,  where  we  were  receiv- 
ed with  the  kindest  hospitality.  Don  Jcse  was  engaged  at  a 
game  of  "solas"  with  two  or  three  friends;  his  lady,  and 
some  of  her  female  acquaintances,  were  chatting  under  the 
corridor,  in  front  of  the  house. 

We  were  quickly  supplied  with  the  means  of  ablution  and 
abstersion,  though  we  had  no  handmaiden  to  perform  for  us 
these  agreeable  operations.  A  plentiful  supper  of  steaks  and 
eggs  was  spread  for  us,  and  in  consideration  of  our  fatigue,  we 
were  permitted  to  retire  early. 

The  next  morning  we  walked  over  the  whole  pueblo  before 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  367 

breakfast,  and  afterwards  conversed  for  an  hour  or  two  over 
our  cigars,  with  our  host,  in  the  corridor. 

Don  Jose  was  a  man  of  good  sense  and  considerable  reading, 
and  possessed  of  a  fund  of  entertaining  anecdotes.  Speaking 
of  politics,  and  the  state  of  Peru,  he  observed,  "the  morale 
of  the  mass  is  not  suited  for  a  republican  form  of  government. 
We  want  a  Frederick  II.,  or  a  Napoleon  ;  you  were  happy  in 
having  Washington  amongst  you.  The  Presidents  of  the  Unit- 
ed States  have  always  retired  from  office  poorer  than  when 
they  were  elected.  Our  Presidents  and  their  officers  think  only 
of  enriching  themselves.  The  army  is  a  sort  of  parasite  to  the 
body  of  the  people,  and  the  officers  of  it  are  constantly  striving 
to  destroy  each  other.  The  lieutenant  is  opposed  to  the  cap- 
tain ;  the  captain  to  the  major  ;  the  major  to  the  colonel  ;  the 
colonel  to  the  general,  and  the  general  to  the  president.  All 
cry,  "  libertad  y  la  patria,  y  no  piensan  en  mas  que  agarrar" — 
liberty  and  the  country,  and  they  only  think  of  grasping.  This 
expression  was  accompanied  with  a  gesture  more  expressive 
than  his  words,  his  hand  being  spread  out  like  the  claw  of  a 
bird,  and  gradually  closed  as  he  drew  it  through  the  air.  He 
added,  "Los  que  hablan  de  la  patria,  son  los  picaros  mas  grandes 
en  el  Peru" — Those  who  talk  of  the  country,  are  the  greatest 
rogues  in  Peru. 

While  we  were  conversing,  the  lady  of  Don  Jose"  was  en- 
gaged in  a  small  tienda  or  shop,  selling  various  articles  of  dry 
goods  to  the  people  of  the  place.  Even  by  the  most  wealthy 
in  Peru,  the  keeping  a  tienda  is  not  deemed  to  be  derogatory 
to  their  dignity,  or  standing  in  society.  Don  Jose  is  master  of 
three  hundred  slaves  and  a  sugar  estate,  and  is  estimated  to  be 
worth  one  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

About  eleven  o'clock  we  visited  the  curate.  He  was  swing- 
ing in  a  hammock  of  Guayaquil  grass,  and  smoking  a  cigar. 
He  received  us  very  cordially,  and  after  offering  us  Italia  and 
cigars,  at  once  entered  upon  the  subject  of  politics.  He  read 
us  a  representation  that  he  had  just  made  to  the  President,  set- 
ting forth  the  propriety  and  necessity  of  annexing  Nepena  and 
its  vicinity  to  the  province  of  Chancay  ;  or  in  case  this  propo- 
sition should  not  be  approved,  to  appoint  a  Prefect  to  rule  over 


368  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

it,  and  allow  it  a  representative  in  Congress.  He  assured  us, 
that  the  alcaldes  were  so  linked  with  the  people,  either  by  in- 
terest, relationship,  or  friendship,  that  it  was  next  to  an  impos- 
sibility to  obtain  justice  at  their  hands.  From  the  conduct  of 
the  alcalde  at  Guambacho,  I  am  disposed  to  think  his  observa- 
tion correct. 

The  curate  had  been  a  chaplain  in  the  army,  both  with  Bo- 
livar and  General  Gamarra,  and  seemed  therefore  unwilling  to 
express  himself  freely  as  to  the  probable  result  of  the  pending 
election.  He  said  that  General  Gamarra  had  been  his  friend, 
and  had  rendered  him  essential  services.  "A  man,"  said  he, 
"should  wait  till  office  seeks  him,  and  not  seek  office:  Gene- 
ral Gamarra  was  called  by  the  voice  of  the  people,  and  now 
the  voice  of  the  people  seems  to  be  calling  on  General  Riva 
Aguero,  and  if  he  succeed  to  the  presidency,  it  would  be  use- 
less for  me,  with  my  single  arm,  to  oppose  him  because  he  is 
not  my  friend — my  duty  is  to  obey." 

He  opened  the  church,  and  took  to  himself  great  credit  for 
its  cleanliness,  and  the  improvements  which  he  had  made.  The 
church  is  small,  very  plain,  and  contains  nothing  worthy  of 
notice.  The  curate's  house,  adjoining  to  it,  is  of  one  story,  and 
built  of  adobes  ;  it  has  a  ground  floor,  and  is  furnished  with  a 
rough  table,  and  a  few  rude  high  backed  chairs. 

While  on  our  visit,  the  worthy  father  received  a  note,  and  a 
pair  of  large  gold  buckles  wrapt  in  paper.  He  said  that  they 
were  sent  with  the  governor's  compliments,  to  see  whether 
one  of  us  would  not  purchase  them.  We  declined,  observing 
that  they  were  too  large  for  our  fashions.  He  replied,  that  we 
could  not  do  better  than  purchase  them,  as  he  would  dispose 
of  them  cheap,  and  that  we  might  sell  them  again  in  Lima  to 
great  advantage  ! 

Nepefia  is  a  small  village  of  ranchos,  built  of  mats  and  canes, 
and  about  a  dozen  adobe  houses.  Its  population  is  estimated  at 
fifteen  hundred.  The  country  around  is  watered  by  the  river 
Guambacho  and  its  branches.  Sugar,  rice,  and  maize,  are  its 
chief  products. 

At  one  o'clock  we  again  mounted,  and  returned  to  our  boat 
by  a  shorter  road  than  that  we  had  travelled.   The  boat's  crew 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  369 

had  returned  from  Guambacho  in  the  morning.  They  reported 
that  they  had  great  difficulty  to  get  any  thing  to  eat  in  the 
pueblo,  and  that  there  was  a  strong  disposition  manifested  to 
impose  upon  them,  and  cheat  them  of  their  money.  According 
to  their  account,  the  widow  Panchita  was  the  only  lady  in  the 
country. 

About  half  past  five  o'clock  we  launched  our  boat,  and,  after 
a  long  and  tedious  pull  outside  of  the  promontory  that  separates 
the  two  bays,  we  got  on  board. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Santa — Bathing — A  prison  scene — An  execution. 

At  one  o'clock,  P.  M.,  on  the  7th  of  March  1833,  we  an- 
chored in  the  Bay  of  Santa. 

We  landed,  and  walked  along  the  shore,  stopping  at  the  dif- 
ferent ranchos,  (only  six  in  all,)  constructed  by  hanging  flag 
mats  on  poles,  forming  a  square  divided  into  two  or  three  apart- 
ments. In  one  we  found  the  curate  of  Santa,  attended  by  his 
mistress,  a  comely  girl,  of  an  Indian  caste,  and  about  eighteen 
years  old.  The  padre  was  a  short,  stout  man,  with  a  round  face 
and  jaundiced  eye.  He  told  us  that  he  had  been  suffering  for  a 
long  time  with  the  "  tertiana,"  or  intermittent  fever,  and  had 
been  recommended  sea  bathing  as  a  dernier  resort  for  his  cure! 
This  is  not  the  only  instance  that  has  come  in  my  way,  of  the 
priests  violating  their  vows  of  celibacy. 

About  half  a  mile  from  the  usual  landing  place,  were  two 
ranchos,  occupied  by  families  who  had  taken  up  a  temporary 
abode,  for  the  advantage  of  sea  bathing  in  the  cases  of  some 
of  their  members.  Several  females  were  bathing  ;  and  as  they 
sprung  up  to  avoid  the  rolling  in  of  the  surf,  they  gave  way  to 
the  hilarity  of  youth  on  a  narrow  escape,  or  they  plunged  into 
47 


370  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

it,  and  again  emerged,  like  Venus  of  old,  from  the  froth  of  the 
sea,  in  all  their  beauty.  The  youngest  of  the  five  bathers  was 
a  little  girl,  but  eight  years  old,  entirely  naked,  plunging  and 
sporting  in  the  breakers,  with  her  long  hair  floating  down 
her  back.  The  symmetry  and  tournure  of  her  little  person 
were  perfect.  The  next  was  thirteen,  and  had  so  far  advanced 
into  womanhood,  as  to  conceal  the  lower  part  of  her  person 
in  a  petticoat.  Her  bosom  was  bare,  white,  and  rounded,  and 
made  her  represent  more  years  than  she  possessed.  The  third 
was  a  matron  of  some  twenty  summers;  her  person  was  hid- 
den in  a  calico  dress,  which  was  rent,  and  permitted  the  eye 
to  discover  at  a  glance  the  beauty  of  her  bust.  The  other  two 
were  much  further  advanced  in  life,  and  attracted  but  little  of 
our  attention. 

An  elderly  lady  sat  upon  the  bank,  smiling  at  the  pranks  of 
her  sporting  family,  surrounded  by  half  a  dozen  lean,  lazy 
curs.  The  father  was  a  long  man,  of  about  forty  years  old, 
with  a  grizzled  beard  of  a  week's  growth.  He  wore  a  poncho 
and  a  straw  hat.  When  we  came  up,  he  was  seated  in  front  of 
the  rancho,  silent  and  reflecting;  and  near  him,  a  half  dozen 
slattern,  barefoot,  half  dressed  black  wenches,  were  preparing 
dinner.  He  came  forward  and  saluted  us:  seeing  our  attention 
directed  towards  the  bathers,  he  ordered  chairs  to  the  bank, 
and  invited  us  to  be  seated.  We  soon  entered  into  familiar  con- 
versation, and  though  we  were  total  strangers,  and  foreigners 
to  boot,  not  one  of  the  party  appeared  to  be  the  least  geni;  and 
indeed,  I  have  never  seen  these  people,  under  any  circum- 
stances, the  least  embarrassed  by  the  sudden  appearance  of 
strangers  amongst  them.  The  young  maids  did  not  abate  one 
jot  of  their  mirth,  nor  endeavor  to  avoid  our  gaze.  The  old 
lady  and  gentleman  seemed  pleased  with  the  scene,  and  the 
first  laughed  heartily,  whenever  her  daughters  were  buried  in 
the  sea. 

After  twenty  minutes,  we  walked  about  a  hundred  yards 
further  on,  where  there  was  a  group  seated  on  the  shingle  bank, 
and  near  the  last  rancho.  Two  old  men  were  reclining  on  the 
stones,  and  a  middle  aged  woman  was  sitting  upon  a  pillion. 
She  was  of  an  Indian  caste,  and  possessed  a  smiling,  good  hu- 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  371 

mored  face.  One  old  man,  who  was  dressed  in  a  rusty,  snuff 
colored  suit,  had  a  hald  crown,  fringed  round  with  a  light 
growth  of  silvery  hair.  Time  had  made  some  inroads  upon  his 
sun  burnt  cheek,  but  his  eye  was  still  bright,  and  expressive 
of  good  nature  and  kindness  of  heart.  His  companion  was 
some  years  younger.  His  dress  was  a  blue  jacket  atid  trowsers ; 
the  latter  were  of  rather  stinted  longitude,  but  sat  close  to  his 
well  proportioned  leg;  his  vest  was  striped,  and  secured  by  a 
single  button.  A  bottle  nose,  and  a  pair  of  twinkling  eyes, 
evinced  the  remains  of  humor.  He  had  been  evidently  a  bon 
vivant,  and  was  doing  penance,  perhaps  for  the  indiscretions 
of  youth.  When  we  drew  near,  the  elder  lady  bowed  her  head 
and  smiled,  and  both  the  gentlemen  raised  their  hats,  and  sa- 
luted us  with  "  buenas  dias  Caballeros,"  without  changing  their 
position  in  any  manner.  The  bon  vivant  invited  us  to  be  seat- 
ed, saying,  "  though  the  stones  are  not  the  softest,  yet  we 
share  what  we  have."  We  complied,  and  offered  cigars  to  our 
new  acquaintances;  the  lady,  and  the  gentleman  in  the  snuff 
colored  suit,  took  one  each,  but  the  bon  vivant  moved  his  fin- 
ger before  his  face,  from  side  to  side,  saying  "  no,  muchas  gra- 
cias,  me  hace  daiio  ahora" — no,  I  thank  you,  it  is  injurious  to 
me  now.  As  is  usual,  we  commenced  the  conversation  with  re- 
marks upon  the  weather,  the  pleasant  situation  of  the  rancho 
for  the  enjoyment  of  the  sea  breeze,  and  its  convenience  for 
bathing.  The  man  in  blue  saw  that  we  looked  towards  the 
bathers,  and  assenting  to  our  remark,  observed,  "  pero  esas  son 
jovenes  y  no  valen  nada,"  and  expressed  by  a  look  all  that  his 
words  did  not  convey.  He  admired  our  ship,  and  inquired 
whether  there  was  not  a  general  impatience  amongst  those  liv- 
ing on  board,  to  get  on  shore  immediately  after  arriving  in 
port.  He  dwelt  upon  the  pleasures  of  the  land  after  being  at 
sea,  and  thought  that  it  must  be  delightful  to  arrive  at  a  great 
city  like  Lima,  where  there  were  so  many  amusements,  the 
opera,  the  bull-bait,  the  cock-pit,  the  tertulias,  "en  fin, cuanto 
hay  para  distraerse," — in  fine,  every  thing  to  distract  one  from 
care.  He  added,  that  he  had  been  there  the  last  year,  during 
the  gay  season,  and  had  won  something  at  Chorillos.  "  To  an- 
chor in  a  place  like  Santa,"  he  continued,  "  in  these  days,  when 


372  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

it  is  '  triste,'  and  the  place  so  in  ruins,  is  not  so  pleasing — it  is 
not  as  it  was  before  it  was  destroyed  by  George  Anson  and 
Cocheran" — and  he  expressed  something  more  by  a  shrug  of 
the  shoulders,  which,  however,  it  is  impossible  to  interpret.  He 
told  us  that  he  came  from  a  place  seventy  leagues  in  the  inte- 
rior, and  spoke  in  enthusiastic  terms  of  the  richness  of  its  soil, 
and  its  products. 

At  this  moment,  two  girls,  who  had  been  bathing,  came 
dripping  from  the  sea;  one,  less  than  ten  years  old,  was  entire- 
ly naked  ;  the  other,  about  thirteen,  who  was  in  a  cotton  dress, 
smiled,  and  saluted  us  with  an  inclination  of  the  head,  and 
hastily  threw  a  woollen  poncho  over  her  shoulders.  The  young- 
er one  hung  down  her  head,  and  by  her  averted  face,  and  side- 
long gait,  evinced  a  degree  of  modesty  at  thus  appearing  before 
strangers  in  a  state  of  nudity.  The  bon  vivant  laughed,  and 
said,  "Que!  tu  no  tienes  nada  que  tapar — si  fuistes  hombre, 
entonces  si." — The  little  girl,  however,  did  not  agree  with 
him,  and  glided  behind  her  sister  in  the  poncho,  and  soon  slip- 
ped on  her  dress. 

A  negress  now  announced  dinner,  and  the  good  people  in- 
vited us  to  join  them  ;  but,  being  past  our  dining  hour,  we  de- 
clined ;  we  took  seats,  however,  in  front  of  the  rancho. 

A  table,  about  two  feet  square,  and  a  foot  and  a  half  high, 
was  placed  under  the  shade  of  the  projecting  roof.  It  was  co- 
vered with  a  white  cloth,  and  laid  with  several  silver  plates, 
and  heavy  forks  and  spoons  of  the  same  metal.  The  pillions 
were  spread  round,  and  the  good  people  seated  themselves  upon 
them.  According  to  the  general  custom,  a  large  dish  was  set 
in  the  centre  of  the  table,  from  which  every  one  helped  him- 
self. The  first  was  of  boiled  beef,  dressed  with  a  salad  of  toma- 
toes and  onions.  A  variety  of  dishes  succeeded  it  in  turn, 
amongst  which  were  rice,  Quinoa,  and  potatoes,  dressed  with 
aji,  which  is  one  of  those  common  mixtures  termed  pic&ntes; 
this  one  is  termed  "  papas  con  aji." 

The  children  were  seated  round  a  pillion;  in  its  centre  was 
placed  a  silver  plate,  out  of  which  they  fed  themselves  with 
their  fingers.  About  three  yards  from  the  table  was  the 
kitchen,  where  the  various  materials  of  the  meal  were  eookinu; 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  373 

in  their  respective  "ollas"or  earthen  crocks,  supported  on 
stones,  with  a  fire  beneath  them.  Two  or  three  horses  were 
standing  near,  dosing,  and  occasionally  switching  away  the  flies 
with  their  tails;  their  bridles  were  hanging  upon  the  ground, 
which  is  the  only  means  usually  adopted  to  secure  a  horse  to 
any  particular  spot  where  the  rider  may  dismount.  These 
were  the  "  rocines"  or  hacks  ;  but  there  was  one  animal,  lighter 
limbed  and  sleeker  than  the  rest,  tethered  by  a  lazo  to  a  peg 
in  the  ground,  that  stood  rubbing  his  head  against  a  fore  leg 
that  was  advanced  before  the  rest,  and  now  and  then  looking 
in  upon  the  company.  A  philosophic  looking  borrico,  with  a 
clean  face,  peered  his  long  head  and  great  ears  beneath  the 
shed,  and  looked  calmly  upon  what  was  going  forward.  A 
great  blue  cat  was  purring  and  rubbing  her  sides  against  the 
children,  with  her  tail  curved,  and  using  all  her  eloquence  to 
influence  the  charity  of  the  little  girls  for  a  morsel  of  beef. 
With  sneaking  looks,  and  tails  between  their  legs,  a  half  dozen 
mongrel  curs  stole  cautiously  towards  the  table,  and  seated 
themselves  at  the  elbows  of  their  masters.  I  thought  they 
took  advantage  of  company  to  draw  near,  for  so  soon  as  they 
were  perceived,  and  slightly  reprimanded,  they  slunk  away, 
hut  took  the  first  opportunity  to  resume  their  places. 

We  sat  there  nearly  an  hour,  smoking,  chatting,  and  occa- 
sionally joining  in  the  potations  of  the  "  chicha  de  maiz," 
which  was  served  in  silver  tankards.  The  bon  vivant  told 
us,  that  the  old  lady  had  been  recommended  to  visit  the  sea 
shore,  "to  breathe  the  air,"  and  that  he  had  come  to  bathe, 
•"  porque  tenia  la  sarna  y  me  rasgaba  mucho — aun  no  me  dejo 
•dormir  de  noche" — for  I  had  the  itch,  and  scratched  much — 
I  scarcely  could  sleep  at  night;  but  I  am  now  cured,  though  1 
am  still  afraid  to  drink  chicha  or  smoke  cigars. 

Impressed  with  a  favorable  idea  of  the  hospitality  of  our 
new  acquaintances,  which  is,  out  of  the  large  cities,  proverbial 
along  the  whole  coast,  we  bade  them  farewell.  On  our  way 
back  to  the  landing,  we  passed  over  an  ancient  burying  place 
•of  the  Indians,  which  has  been  pretty  generally  turned  up  by 
visiters  in  search  of  huaqueros  or  earthen  vessels,  found  in  the 
graves.     The  whole  surface  is  strewed  with  skulls  and  bones, 


374  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

bleaching  in  the  sun,  which  receive  many  a  kick  by  the  idle 
passers  by.  The  back  part  of  these  skulls  is  almost  vertical, 
and  rises  quite  abruptly  from  the  great  hole  at  the  base.  The 
left  side  is  generally  much  more  prominent  than  the  right. 
The  forehead  is  narrow  and  retreating;  and  the  line  of  the  face 
is  quite  as  perpendicular  as  that  of  the  European. 

The  bay  of  Santa,  situated  in  8°  52'  of  south  latitude,  is  a 
mere  roadstead,  defended  from  the  prevailing  winds  by  a  high 
bluff  on  the  south.  The  valley  is  comparatively  fertile,  and 
yields  rice  and  sugar  in  considerable  quantities,  and  large 
herds  of  cattle  are  grazed,  and  sold  in  the  Lima  market.  A 
little  to  the  south  is  a  small  lagoon,  tilled  with  most  excellent 
mullet,  which  we  judged,  from  their  large  size  and  great  num- 
bers, had  not  been  disturbed  previous  to  our  visit.  There  are 
other  lagoons  in  the  neighborhood,  abounding  with  ducks, 
snipe,  and  water  hens.  The  lagoons  owe  their  origin  to  a 
small  rivulet  which  passes  the  town  to  the  north,  called  Santa 
river,  which  occasionally  overflows  its  banks.  Algarrobo  and 
espino  trees  grow  closely  along  its  shores,  forming  thickets, 
which  are  visited  by  deer.  These  features  of  the  country  are 
quite  sufficient  to  account  for  the  intermittent  fevers  which 
prevail  through  the  year,  and  for  which  the  padre  before  men- 
tioned was  indebted  to  the  kind  attentions  of  his  Dulcinea. 
The  valley  contains  many  of  the  ancient  mounds,  termed  hu- 
acas,  and  a  fortress  of  the  Grand  Chimu,  who  for  some  time 
made  head  against  the  Incas,  previous  to  his  fall.  The  graves 
of  the  aborigines  in  this  part  of  the  country  resemble  those 
near  Arica,  but  appear  to  have  been  made  with  more  care,  for 
some  of  them  are  square  chambers  about  six  feet  deep,  and  four 
on  each  side,  walled  up  with  small  adobes. 

The  town  of  Santa,  which  is  situated  about  three  miles  from 
the  beach,  is  laid  out  with  a  regularity  that  is  characteristic  of 
all  Spanish  towns,  and  the  architecture  is  the  same  as  that  of 
Lima.  Its  streets  have  a  lonely  deserted  appearance,  and  are 
much  more  than  sufficiently  extended  for  the  present  small 
population,  which  does  not  exceed  eight  or  nine  hundred  souls. 
Santa  was  once  much  more  populous,  but  change  of  govern- 
niiiit  and  war  have  reduced  it  to  its  present  condition.    In  for- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  375 

mer  times,  the  town  stood  upon  the  shore;  hut  in  consequence 
of  its  being  sacked  in  16S5  by  the  English Jjnccaneers,  it  was 
moved  to  its  present  site,  to  avoid  the  frequent  descents,  made 
at  different  periods  by  the  enemies  of  Spain,  along  the  whole 
coast.  But  here  it  did  not  escape,  for  in  1761,  the  river  on 
which  it  stands  overflowed  its  banks,  and  reduced  the  place 
nearly  to  a  mass  of  mud  ! 

At  the  house  of  a  native,  who  is  one  of  the  magnates  of  the 
land,  and  who  keeps  a  mistress,  and  an  immense  baboon  for 
her  amusement,  without  exciting  the  scandal  of  the  neighbors, 
(which  may  be  owing  to  the  absence  of  the  practice  of  tea- 
drinking,)  I  became  acquainted  with  a  gentleman  named  Don 
Jose.  Previous  to  the  revolution,  he  was  possessed  of  a  million 
of  dollars,  and  lived  only  to  enjoy  it.  Loyal  in  his  principles, 
in  1823  he  hastily  got  together  eighty  thousand  hard  dollars, 
determined  to  leave  the  country  till  the  troubles  should  pass 
over.  This  money  he  was  carrying  to  Guanchaco,  to  embark, 
when  it  was  seized  by  the  patriot  chiefs,  and  spent  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  country.  Fearing  that  he  might  be  drawn  upon  for 
larger  amounts,  and  for  this  reason,  desirous  of  conciliating  the 
patriot  officers,  he  kept  open  house,  and  for  the  amusement  of 
his  friends,  kept  a  gambling  table,  at  which  he  constantly  lost. 
At  last,  almost  ruined,  he  closed  his  establishment,  the  conse- 
quence of  which  was,  that  he  was  accused  of  being  favorable 
to  Ferdinand,  and  was  obliged  to  fly  for  safety.  He  was  hunted 
for  several  years,  and  after  the  Spanish  flag  had  disappeared 
from  South  America,  he  made  his  appearance,  and  found  his 
immense  fortune  reduced  to  about  thirty  thousand  dollars.  Don 
Jose  told  me,  that  even  now  he  is  afraid  to  express  an  opinion 
about  political  matters,  on  account  of  the  strong  prejudice  that 
universally  prevails  against  Spaniards.  He  therefore  almost 
constantly  resides  upon  his  estate,  where  he  grazes  large  herds 
of  cattle,  which  are  sold  in  the  Lima  market. 

One  morning,  while  at  Santa,  I  was  attracted  by  an  assem- 
blage of  about  a  dozen  persons  around  two  or  three  horsemen 
in  the  plaza,  which  was  an  unusual  sight  in  this  lonely  spot. 
They  were  in  front  of  what  is  termed  the  "c&rcel,"  or  jail. 
Before  a  door  made  of  thick  wooden  bars,  forming  a  grating, 


376  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

through  which  we  saw  about  a  half  dozen  prisoners,  in  a  dirty 
obscure  room,  the  group  was  assembled.  One  of  the  prisoners 
held  two  of  the  bars  above  his  head  with  his  hands,  and  leaned 
his  chin  against  the  door,  looking  out  upon  the  plaza,  while  the 
latter  part  of  his  body  projected  backwards.  He  was  a  savage 
looking  fellow,  with  sturdy  limbs,  and  blood  shot  eyes;  his 
dress  consisted  of  a  white  shirt  and  trowsers,  one  leg  of  which 
was  rolled  up  to  his  knee.  Another  was  seated  on  the  ground, 
leaning  his  back  against  the  wall,  while  his  head  hung  forward 
on  his  breast,  with  a  striped  handkerchief  tied  round  it;  his 
legs  were  crossed,  as  they  extended  before  him,  and  his  hands 
were  clasped  together  upon  his  lap,  with  their  palms  turned 
forward ;  in  addition  to  his  shirt  and  trowsers,  the  latter  spat- 
tered with  mud,  he  wore  a  dark  poncho  knotted  round  his 
waist.  The  other  prisoners  were  walking  back  and  forth  in 
silence. 

The  horsemen  were  clothed  in  large  green  ponchos,  Guaya- 
quil hats  tied  under  the  chin,  and  armed  with  pistols  and  short 
spears;  and  each  had  a  dragoon's  sabre,  in  a  metal  scabbard, 
dangling  at  his  side.  Their  horses  hung  their  heads  like  wearied 
animals,  and  if  their  muddy  limbs  had  not  been  sufficient,  the 
long  beards  of  their  riders  clearly  proved  that  they  had  but  just 
returned  from  a  long  journey.  A  stout  old  man  in  a  gingham 
jacket,  with  a  round  face  and  little  gray  whiskers,  stood  con- 
versing with  one  of  them,  while  the  other  was  arranging  a 
paper  cigar,  and  striking  fire  by  aid  of  a  machero.  The  respect 
paid  by  all  present,  and  a  large  Molluca  stick,  with  a  ponder- 
ous gold  head,  which  he  held  in  his  hand,  and  occasionally 
moved  to  support  his  arguments,  declared  him  to  be  no  other 
than  the  Alcalde  of  Santa.  One  horse  stood  without  a  rider, 
the  reins  lying  on  the  ground,  and  a  lazo  by  his  side.  The 
prisoner  had  been  brought  in  upon  this  animal,  secured  by  tying 
his  legs  together  with  the  lazo. 

The  whole  turn  out,  I  soon  discovered,  was  to  see  a  murder- 
er, who  had  been  just  brought  in  by  the  mounted  "  vigilantes." 
The  prisoner  had  eluded  an  almost  constant  search,  all  over  the 
country,  during  more  than  a  year,  and  was  at  last  brought  to 
the  town  to  show  that  escape,  under  such  a  crime,  was  impos- 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  377 

Bible  even  in  Peru.  The  conversation  between  the  alcalde  and 
the  "  vigilante,"  was  upon  the  best  mode  of  keeping  securely 
a  prisoner,  who  had  murdered  his  patron  under  most  aggravated 
circumstances.  The  only  plan  which  occurred  to  them,  was  to 
mount  guard  constantly  before  the  door,  because  manacles  or 
shackles  they  had  none.  Curiosity  led  me  to  look  a  second  time 
in  the  carcel,to  see  the  prisoner,  who,  I  concluded,  was  the  de- 
jected looking  man  sitting  against  the  wall,  but  to  my  astonish- 
ment I  was  told  that  the  murderer  was  he  who  was  leaning 
his  chin  against  the  grated  door.  I  instinctively  drew  back  to 
gaze  upon  the  wretch;  he  smiled,  and  extending  his  hand 
through  the  door,  said,  <<  de  me  un  real  para  comprar  cigarros" 
— which,  with  tone  and  manner  taken  into  account,  translated, 
is,  "  give  me  a  real  to  buy  cigars,  and  be  d d  to  you  !" 

About  two  months  after  this  event,  I  was  passing  through 
the  streets  of  the  capital,  and  was  attracted  by  a  mulatto,  walk- 
ing slowly  along,  tolling  a  little  table  bell  in  one  hand,  and 
carrying  a  silver  plate  in  the  other,  containing  several  small 
pieces  of  money.  I  asked  him  what  it  meant.  He  replied,  that 
he  was  collecting  alms  to  pay  for  misas  and  the  "  mortage"  of 
a  man  who  was  "in  capilla,"  and  who  was  to  be  shot  at  ten 
o'clock.  A  prisoner  is  said  to  be  "in  capilla,"  when  he  is  se- 
parated, after  being  sentenced,  from  the  rest  of  the  prisoners  in 
the  cdrcel,  and  only  allowed  communication  with  his  immediate 
friends,  and  confessor. 

I  hastened  to  the  plaza  to  witness  the  execution,  the  manner 
of  which  was  almost  new  to  me.  The  port&les  presented  their 
usual  appearance.  A  hollow  square  of  troops  was  drawn  up 
just  in  front  of  the  Bishop's  palace,  resting  on  their  arms,  and 
some  forty  or  fifty  spectators,  mostly  idle  boys  or  negroes, 
were  standing  around.  On  a  nearer  approach,  I  discovered,  at 
one  end  of  the  hollow  square,  an  old  negro  with  a  grizzled 
head,  dressed  in  a  short  jacket,  and  full  bottomed  bragas  open 
at  the  knee,  standing  upon  one  leg,  while  the  other  crossed  it 
and  rested  the  toe  upon  the  ground  ;  his  left  hand  grasped  the 
top  of  a  square  post  planted  in  the  ground,  having  a  small 
board  about  two  feet  high  nailed  in  front  of  it,  and  his  right 
hung  by  his  side,  holding  a  white  handkerchief  folded  like  a 
4S 


37S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

cravat.  Over  the  top  of  the  post  were  laid  a  white  fillet  and 
two  or  three  strips  of  hide  ahout  a  fathom  long.  Presently,  an 
officer  at  the  head  of  a  small  guard  entered  the  hollow  square, 
and  as  he  marched  round  with  his  sword  drawn,  repeated  seve- 
ral times  in  a  loud  voice,  "Juan  Mendez  is  doomed  to  die  for 
murder ;  if  any  person  can  offer  a  reason  why  he  should  be  par- 
doned, let  him  speak." — All  remained  silent. 

In  a  few  minutes  a  chanting  was  heard,  and  the  prisoner, 
supported  by  two  friars,  attended  by  others,  and  guarded  by 
twenty  soldiers,  advanced  slowly  into  the  plaza  from  the  street 
leading  to  the  prison.  When  he  had  nearly  reached  the  place 
of  execution,  the  troops  were  ordered  to  shoulder  arms,  and  a 
body  of  cavalry  issued  from  the  palace,  and  formed  outside  the 
infantry,  completely  surrounding  them.  The  prisoner  halted 
in  front  of  the  troops.  He  was  much  emaciated,  but  I  recog- 
nised, in  his  strong  frame  and  bloodshot  eyes,  as  they  wander- 
ed round  the  scene  before  him,  the  murderer  that  I  had  seen 
at  Santa.  He  knelt  down,  and  the  executioner,  that  the  reader 
has  already  guessed  to  be  the  negro  in  bragas,  blindfolded  him 
with  the  handkerchief  which  he  held  in  his  hand.  The  padres, 
who  were  chanting  the  whole  time,  raised  him  and  led  him  to 
the  post,  where  he  again  knelt  for  a  moment,  and  then,  with 
much  composure,  took  the  seat  which  was  prepared  for  him. 
The  executioner  passed  the  hide  cords  round  his  arms  and 
body,  and  secured  it  to  the  post,  and  then  bound  his  head  back 
with  the  white  fillet : — the  padres  crying,  in  a  lugubrious  tone, 
all  the  time,  "  Misericord ia  !  Misericordia  !"  not,  however,  as 
if  they  really  desired  it,  but  mechanically,  as  if  they  did  it  as 
a  trade.  At  a  motion  of  the  sword  of  the  commanding  officer, 
after  all  had  been  adjusted,  four  soldiers  wheeled  out  from  the 
ranks,  and  at  another  signal,  fired,  though  not  simultaneous- 
ly ;  the  prisoner  fell,  and  hung  by  the  middle  to  the  post,  with 
his  head  and  feet  touching  the  ground.  A  friend  advanced 
with  the  "mortage,"  or  grave  clothes,  and  the  crowd  rushed 
forward,  anxious  to  see  the  body.  The  troops  quickly  retired, 
and  in  two  minutes  the  padres  had  disappeared,  and  only  four 
persons,  besides  the  executioner,  were  standing  near  the  spot 
of  the  execution.  The  body  was  untied  and  laid  on  the  ground. 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  379 

and  a  plate  laid  upon  the  breast,  into  which  several  "  cuarti- 
llos"  were  thrown.  In  this  situation,  I  am  told,  the  bodies  of 
malefactors  are  frequently  exposed  for  many  hours,  to  obtain 
alms  from  the  passers-by  to  pay  the  expenses  of  interment. 

To  judge  from  this  instance,  public  punishment  for  crime  is 
useless  in  Lima;  for  not  more  than  eighty  persons,  besides  the 
troops,  witnessed  the  execution — indeed  the  plaza  appeared  to 
be  as  gay  during  the  whole  scene  as  if  nothing  unusual  was 
going  forward. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


Huanchaco — Balsas — Landing — Port — Road  to  Truxillo — The  Grand  Chimu, 
and  his  war  with  the  Incas — City  of  Truxillo — "El  Quipos  del  Chimu" — 
A  nunnery  and  a  nun — Pacasmayo — Spinning — Ride  to  San  Pedro — A  Go- 
vernor— A  Colonel — Hospitable  reception. 

Huanciiaco,  or  Guanchaco,  is  situated  in  8°  4'  south  lati- 
tude, close  to  the  beach,  upon  which  the  sea  breaks  with  so 
much  violence  that  the  ordinary  boats  of  a  ship  cannot  land, 
even  when  the  ocean  is  most  tranquil.  The  anchorage  is  about 
two  miles  distant,  and  communication  is  held  with  the  shore 
by  large  launches,  and  a  peculiar  kind  of  balsa,  made  of  straw, 
which  the  fishermen  call  "  caballito,"  from  the  manner  they 
ride  upon  it  through  the  breakers.  It  consists  of  two  large 
bundles  of  straw  or  rushes,  made  of  a  conical  shape,  bound 
close  together,  leaving  a  small  space  or  hole  towards  the  large 
end,  in  which  small  parcels  are  sometimes  carried  ;  the  apex 
of  the  cone  is  turned  up  in  a  slender  point,  like  the  toes  of  the 
shoes  worn  by  our  great-great-grand-mammas,  in  times  of  old. 
The  balsero  sits  astride  this  little  vessel  or  caballito  when  in 
the  surf,  for  better  security,  and  when  he  gains  the  open  sea, 
a  la  Turque,  in  the  hollow  or  space  just  mentioned.   A  straw 


3S0  THREE  TEARS  IX  TITE   PACIFIC. 

hat,  a  coarse  shirt  and  trowsers,  form  his  dress,  and  he  manages 
his  "little  horse"  with  a  double  paddle  instead  of  rein. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival,  we  pulled  towards  the 
shore,  to  meet  a  launch  that  was  making  its  way  slowly  to  the 
ship,  and  thus  save  as  much  time  as  possible.  After  we  had 
got  on  board,  her  head  was  turned  again  to  the  shore,  and 
we  soon  found  ourselves  in  the  rollers.  When  fairly  in  the 
breakers,  foaming  and  boiling  fiercely  enough,  the  oars  were 
held  up  perpendicularly,  ready  to  be  put  in  the  water  again  if 
occasion  should  require,  and  the  timoneer,  an  old  Indian,  guid- 
ed her,  as  she  swept  high  on  the  top  of  a  roller  swiftly  towards 
the  beach,  and  just  before  she  touched,  brought  her  bows  to 
the  sea,  and  the  next  moment  three  or  four  Indians  waded  to 
the  stern  of  the  boat,  having  one  shoulder  saddled  with  a  sheep 
skin,  on  which  the  passengers  were  ridden  ashore.  The  Indian 
holds  the  feet  of  his  rider  in  his  hands,  while  the  latter  holds 
by  the  other's  head,  to  prevent  himself  from  sliding  off.  For 
this  piece  of  service  each  passenger  paid  a  real. 

At  different  places  along  the  coast,  as  far  as  eye  could  reach, 
the  line  of  the  breakers  was  sprinkled  with  fishermen,  mounted 
on  their  caballitos,  engaged  in  their  vocation,  now  mounting 
high  on  the  foamy  crest  of  a  sea,  like  a  great  water  fowl,  now 
sinking  from  sight  in  the  hollow  of  the  waves,  or  whirled  about 
in  the  eddies  ;  and  again,  by  aid  of  the  double  paddle,  regain- 
ing their  positions. 

The  Indians  that  were  on  the  shore,  were  rather  short,  stout, 
of  a  sleek  copper  color,  with  small  black  eyes,  set  well  apart, 
coarse  black  hair,  cut  close,  except  a  small  tuft  or  topknot  in 
the  middle  of  the  forehead,  and  temple  locks  hanging  down  to 
a  line  with  the  lower  part  of  the  ear.  They  wore  coarse  white 
shirts  and  trowsers,  the  latter  rolled  high  afeove  the  knee, 
showing  their  most  sturdy  limbs.  They  were  employed  carry- 
ing bales  of  goods  from  the  launches  that  were  being  discharg- 
ed, or  loading  others  with  sugar  and  bales  of  tobacco. 

The  port  of  Guanchaco  consists  of  a  store  house,  a  church, 
which  is  the  general  land  mark,  and  about  a  dozen  or  two  of 
huts  and  small  houses.  The  city  of  Truxillo,  or  Trujillo  accord- 
ing to  the  latest  orthography  of  the  Spanish  Academy,  is  about 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  381 

seven  miles  off,  though  probably  not  more  than  a  league  in  a 
direct  line  from  the  sea. 

The  road  is  tolerably  good,  and  passes  by  many  huacas,  and 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  town  of  Chimu,  named  after  the  king, 
who  was  called  the  Grand  Chimu,  the  lord  of  the  valleys, 
Parmunca,  Huallmi  (now  Guarmey),  Santa,  Huanapu,  or  Gu- 
anape,  and  Chimu,  or  Chimo.  He  is  represented  to  have  been 
a  haughty  prince,  very  successful  in  war,  and  much  feared  by 
the  neighboring  nations.  His  subjects  worshipped  various 
beasts,  and  birds,  and  fishes,  for  some  peculiar  virtue  or  trait 
in  their  habits  ;  as  the  lion  and  tiger  for  their  fierceness  ;  the 
condor  for  its  size  ;  the  owl  for  its  wonderful  sight,  being  able 
to  see  at  night,  and  the  dog  for  his  loyalty. 

In  the  reign  of  Pachacutec,  who  died  in  1423,  the  Incas 
carried  their  arms,  under  the  command  of  Inca  Yupanqui, 
his  son,  and  his  uncle,  Capac  Yupanqui  (whom  the  king  call- 
ed his  right  arm),  into  the  dominions  of  the  Grand  Chimu, 
to  force  him  and  his  vassals  to  renounce  their  idols,  and  wor- 
ship the  sun,  the  God  of  the  Incas. 

Inca  Yupanqui  advanced  as  far  as  the  valley  of  Rimac,  and 
while  waiting  there  for  some  reinforcements  from  the  south, 
sent  ambassadors  to  the  Grand  Chimu,  to  declare  the  will  of 
the  Inca,  and  to  offer  clemency  in  case  of  submission.  The 
powerful  and  Grand  Chimu  replied  that  he  was  ready  to  die 
with  arms  in  his  hands,  in  defence  of  his  country,  laws,  and 
customs,  and  desired  no  new  gods  ;*  and  that  the  Inca  must 
rest  satisfied  with  this,  answer,  for  he  would  never  give  any 
other. 

War  was  begun,  and  waged  with  great  fury  on  both  sides, 
for  some  of  the  ancient  enemies  of  Chimu  joined  the  Incas  for 
the  sake  of  revenge.  The  inhabitants  of  Santa  and  the  valley 
pf  Chimu,  where  this  proud  king  held  his  court,  were  more 
warlike  than  the  rest,  so  that  the  contest  was  more  fierce  and 
bloody  than  any  that  occurred  during  the  long  dynasty  of  the 
children  of  the  sun.  At  last  the  haughty  king  was  forced  to 
yield,  and  the  Inca  generously  left  him  the  government  of  his 
valleys,  saying  that  he  did  not  wish  to  despoil  him  of  his  do- 


382  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

main,  but  to  raise  him  and  his  vassals  from  their  low  state  of 
idolatry,  and  to  improve  their  laws.* 

The  huacas  of  Chimu  have  yielded  more  treasures  and  curi- 
ous antiquities  than  those  of  any  other  of  the  Peruvian  valleys. 
Large  amounts  in  gold  and  silver  have  been  extracted  at  dif- 
ferent periods.  Among  many  of  these  antiquities,  I  was  shown 
a  fore-arm  and  hand  of  gold,  found  several  years  since;  it  was 
about  six  inches  long,  hollow,  without  any  seam,  and  had  three 
holes  on  one  side,  and  a  single  one  opposite,  like  those  in  the 
joint  of  a  flageolet,  and  it  was  supposed  to  have  been  used  as  a 
musical  instrument. 

The  city  of  Truxillo,  (now  known  in  public  documents  by 
the  name  of  Libertad),  stands  in  a  sandy  plain,  about  two 
leagues  to  the  northward  of  Guanchaco,  and  about  a  league 
from  the  sea.  It  was  founded  in  1535,  soon  after  the  founding 
of  Lima,  by  Don  Francisco  Pizarro,  and  called  after  the  city 
of  his  birth  in  Estremadura  in  Spain.  The  streets  are  of  a 
convenient  breadth,  and  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles; 
but  from  the  nature  of  the  soil,  and  being  badly  paved,  they 
are  dusty  and  dirty.  Many  of  the  houses  are  built  of  adobes, 
two  stories  high,  having  balconies  looking  into  the  streets  and 
interior  courts,  resembling  Lima  in  all  respects.  The  po- 
pulation does  not  exceed  six  thousand.  The  city  is  surrounded 
by  an  adobe  wall,  intended  in  former  times  to  repel  the  at- 
tacks of  Indians.  The  city  contains  a  cathedral,  two  convents 
of  nuns,  and  a  hospital.  Lately,  a  newspaper,  under  the  title 
of  "El  Quipos  del  Chimu,"  printed  on  a  sheet  of  foolscap, 
headed  with  a  phoenix  rising  from  the  flames,  and  the  motto, 
"Sin  ilustracion  en  Ios  ciudadanos,  ni  severidad  en  los  man- 
datarios  son  nulas  las  Republicas,"  is  published  every  Saturday, 
at  a  real  each  number,  or  at  the  rate  of  six  dollars  a  year. 
The  editor  announces,  that  all  articles  intended  for  publication 
must  be  presented  before  Thursday  of  the  week,  if  their  pub- 
lication be  desired  for  the  following  Saturday;  this  illustrates 
the  activity  of  the  press  in  this  city.  The  "  Quipos"  contains 
the  public  decrees,  items  of  foreign   news,  commercial  adver- 

*  Garcilaso.   Hcrrera. 


NOTICES     OP  PERU.  383 

tisements,  but  the  greater  part  is  filled  with  personal  wrangles 
and  vituperation. 

The  title  and  the  phoenix  are  both  fanciful  and  classic,  for 
Quipos  is  the  name  of  a  register  of  important  events,  composed 
of  a  variety  of  different  colored  strings  and  knots,  that  was 
kept  by  the  ancient  Peruvians,  and  the  phoenix  is  symbolic  of 
the  city  of  Liberty  rising  out  of  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Chimu, 
which  are  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

Truxillo  was  formerly  the  residence  of  several  nobles,  who 
held  lucrative  offices  under  the  Spanish  government.  Tar- 
ralla,  in  his  satire,  entitled,  "Lima  por  dentro  y  fuera,"  says, 
that  it  was  "poverty  enclosed  in  walls,"  and  for  want  of  mo- 
ney, that  articles  were  bartered  in  the  market  place, 

"  Que  en  la  plaza  se  permutan, 
Harina  y  carne  por  huevos, 
Por  pan,  frutas  y  verduras 
Y  tambien  gatos  por  perros." 

Though  the  country  immediately  surrounding  the  city  is 
sandy  and  barren  a  few  miles  from  the  sea,  the  valley  is  rich 
in  sugar  cane,  corn,  and  wheat.  In  a  report  made  to  the  gene- 
ral government  of  Peru,  by  the  governor  of  Huanchaco,  in 
July  1833,  it  is  stated,  that  the  province  yielded  for  the  past 
year  20,000  fanegas  of  wheat,  valued  at  53,000  dollars,  and 
from  the  fostering  care  of  the  government  being  extended  to 
agriculture,  the  quantity  would  be  in  all  probability  very  much 
increased.  The  chief  wealth  of  this  part  of  Peru  consists  in 
the  products  of  the  mines.  Large  amounts  of  uncoined  silver,  in 
spite  of  the  prohibition,  are  smuggled  on  board  of  men-of-war 
that  stop  at  this  port  for  this  purpose. 

One  morning  I  paid  a  visit  to  a  convent  of  nuns,  that  is  un- 
der the  holy  protection  and  patronage  of  Santa  Carmen.  On 
one  side  of  the  building  is  a  small  square  hall,  leading  from 
the  street  to  an  interior  court,  which  was  closed.  A  dumb 
waiter  or  turning  wheel  is  placed  on  one  side  of  the  hall, 
which  conveys  things  in  and  out  of  the  apartments  occupied 
by  the  nuns,  without  any  of  them  being  seen.  While  I  was 
there,  many  servants  arrived  with  baskets  of  fruit,  sweetmeats, 


3S4  THREE    YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

and  various  presents,  that  were  placed  on  the  wheel,  and  re- 
ceived on  the  inside  by  a  female  with  a  sweet  voice.  She 
heard  me  speaking,  and  inquired  who  the  stranger  was,  and 
then  asked  me,  whether  I  was  a  Christian,  and  how  I  liked 
Peru.  I  told  her,  that  it  was  an  interesting  country,  though  I 
thought  Truxillo  very  dull,  and  I  ventured  to  inquire,  whether 
she  did  not  sometimes  feel  a  want  of  society.  She  replied, 
"jamas  !  somos  veinte,  todas  esposas  de  nuestro  Senor  Jesu 
Christo,  y  que  otra  felicidad  podemos  desear!" — Never,  we 
are  twenty,  all  wives  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  what  other 
happiness  can  we  desire  !  She  sent  me  out  a  scapulary,  which 
she  bid  me  wear  as  an  amulet  for  the  sake  of  Nuestra  Senora 
del  Carmen,  and  for  which  1  returned  some  silver  in  charity, 
and  asked  how  long  she  had  been  a  nun.  Imagination  pictured 
her  to  be  young,  and  of  course  beautiful,  because  she  had  a 
sweet  voice;  but  the  romance  vanished,  when  she  told  me  that 
she  had  taken  the  veil  more  than  thirty  years  back,  at  the  age 
of  seventeen  ! 

On  the  corner  of  the  convent  is  the  chapel,  which  is  open 
to  the  public.  The  interior  is  tastefully  decorated,  and  almost 
hidden  in  gilded  mouldings  and  panels.  On  the  side  next  the 
convent,  are  holes  about  a  foot  square,  covered  with  a  tin  per- 
forated plate,  through  which  the  nuns  whisper  their  confessions 
to  the  priests,  who  occupy  the  confessionals  placed  immediate- 
ly below. 

Leaving  Truxillo  at  midnight,  we  anchored  the  next  day  be- 
fore the  port  of  Pacasmayo,  situated  about  fifty  miles  to  the 
northward.  We  landed,  as  at  Huanchaco,  in  a  launch.  The  port 
consists  of  a  half  dozen  ranchos,  built  on  the  sand,  of  reeds  and 
flag,  without  door  or  window,  inhabited  by  Indians,  who  are 
exclusively  employed  in  fishing  with  their  caballitos.  They 
use  small  cast  nets,  by  which  they  obtain  almost  their  only 
food.  In  one  of  the  ranchos,  an  old  woman  was  spinning  after 
a  very  primitive  fashion.  She  was  seated  on  the  ground,  a  la 
Turque,  with  a  roll  of  nicely  picked  cotton  enclosed  in  paper, 
and  supported  on  three  sticks,  forming  a  kind  of  tripod.  Her 
dress  was  a  woollen  petticoat,  and  a  shawl  of  coarse  blue  baize  ; 
her  face  was  wrinkled,  and  her  head  gray.    The  cotton  was 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  385 

drawn  out  into  a  thread  with  the  fingers,  which  were  occasion- 
ally rubbed  on  a  large  lump  of  chalk  beside  her,  and  twisted 
by  aid  of  a  stick,  having  one  end  pointed,  and  on  the  other  a 
heavy  button,  that  was  set  in  motion  by  a  dexterous  twist  of 
the  fingers,  and  the  weight  kept  it  revolving  for  some  time.  As 
the  thread  was  spun,  it  was  wrapped  on  the  stick  that  per- 
formed the  office  of  a  spindle.  In  the  same  rancho,  several  sea 
stars  were  roasting  on  the  coals,  and  a  young  Indian  was  eat- 
ing one  with  aji,  which  was  contained  in  a  small  gourd.  A  lit- 
tle to  the  northward,  is  a  small  stream  of  fresh  water,  on  whose 
banks  grow  some  small  trees,  which  are  the  only  relief  from 
the  reflection  of  the  fine  white  sand. 

One  of  the  persons  whom  we  met  in  the  port,  was  a  young 
man  with  black  hair,  dressed  in  a  short  jacket  and  pantaloons 
of  white,  and  without  stockings.  This  personage  very  courte- 
ously introduced  himself  to  us  as  a  lieutenant  of  the  navy,  and 
offered  his  assistance  to  procure  us  horses  to  ride  to  San  Pedro, 
the  chief  town  in  the  province,  distant  two  leagues.  Our  party 
consisted  of  three  persons.  After  some  delay,  four  horses  were 
brought  forward,  but  only  three  saddles  could  be  found,  and 
our  compagnons  de  voyage  would  be  three,  so  that  we  made 
six  in  all.  One  animal  was  a  little  lean  pony,  about  four  feet 
high,  and  it  somehow  happened  that  he  fell  to  the  longest 
legged  man  in  company.  In  place  of  a  saddle,  a  fragment  of  a 
rug  was  folded  and  placed  on  his  back,  and  the  owner  of  the 
animal  insisted  upon  riding  a  ancas  or  en  croupe.  The  other 
chargers  were,  to  judge  from  appearances,  descendants  either 
in  direct  line,  or  from  a  branch  of  the  renowned  Rocinante,  for 
they  seemed  to  possess  all  the  spirit  of  their  sire,  and  not  a  jot 
more.  I  was  fortunate,  and  had  an  entire  horse  to  myself,  so 
that  we  set  off  for  the  pueblo. 

Our  route  lay  over  deep  sand,  that  did  not  retain  the  tracks 
of  our  animals,  and  after  a  mile,  we  found  ourselves  amonjrst 
drifting  sand  hills,  which  are  common  in  several  places  along 
the  coast.  Here  the  fellow-traveller  of  our  long  legged  friend 
got  down,  and  took  to  his  own  legs,  in  preference  to  being 
longer  dandled  on  the  sharp  rear  of  the  hard  trotting  pony. 
Seeing  him  toiling  through  the  sand,  I,  in  sheer  compassion, 
49 


3S6  THREE   YEAKS  IN   THE    PACIFIC. 

gave  him  a  scat  behind  me.  In  this  way  we  got  through  the 
sand,  and  came  out  upon  hard  ground,  planted  with  low  cedars 
and  willow.  The  road  then  passed  through  rice  fields,  which 
were  overflowed  from  a  neighboring  acequia. 

About  one  o'clock,  under  a  burning  sun,  we  entered  the 
pueblo  of  San  Pedro,  which  consists  of  an  assemblage  of  adobe 
houses  and  ranchos,  sufficient  in  number  to  accommodate  about 
five  hundred  inhabitants.  It  rejoices  in  a  small  church,  a  bil- 
liard table,  and  a  gambling  house,  where  we  found  several 
groups  engaged  at  cards  and  monte-al-dao,  for  reales  and  dol- 
lars. 

We  paid  a  visit  to  the  governor,  a  short  fat  man  of  the  In- 
dian caste,  who  unites  in  his  person  the  offices  of  captain  of 
the  port,  tailor,  and  shopkeeper.  A  little  band-box  of  a  room, 
with  a  counter  in  front,  formed  his  tienda,  which  was  stored 
with  American  cottons,  coarse  cloth,  white  wax,  candles,  hard- 
ware, besides  sundry  cheeses  suspended  in  little  nets  from  the 
ceiling.  His  sitting  room  was  furnished  with  three  leather 
backed  chairs,  a  low  table,  four  tumblers,  and  a  black  bottle, 
from  which  he  regaled  us  with  a  potation  of  pisco  and  water. 
He  was  warm  in  praise  of  the  quiet  of  San  Pedro,  and  men- 
tioned, in  proof  of  its  prosperous  condition,  that  a  piano  had 
been  lately  imported,  which  was  the  delight  of  "  todas  las  don- 
cellas  del  pueblo," — the  delight  of  all  the  maids  in  the  place. 
In  spite  of  the  apparent  want  of  comfort,  he  received  us  with 
great  cordiality,  and  presented  us  with  cigars,  and  had  fire 
brought  in  a  silver  brazero  of  fine  filigree  in  the  form  of  a  bird. 
This  "filigrana"  of  silver,  as  it  is  termed,  is  manufactured  at 
Huamanga,  or  Ayacucho,  by  the  Indians,  into  a  variety  of 
baskets,  birds,  &c,  which  are  very  beautiful,  and  many  have 
been  carried  to  Europe  and  the  United  States,  by  travellers,  as 
curiosities. 

Our  friend  the  "teniente,"  invited  us  to  visit  his  cousins, 
one  of  whom,  he  told  us,  was  married  to  a  lieutenant-colonel, 
and  we  consequently  concluded  that  they  were  of  the  ton.  We 
found  his  cousins,  three  young  ladies,  sleeping  on  the  estrada, 
(part  of  the  room  raised  about  a  foot  above  the  level  of  the 
floor,)  on  mats,  with  their  bare  arms  for  pillows.    On  our  en- 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  387 

trance,  the  aunt  shook  the  girls,  saying,  "levantate,  nifia, 
aqui  hay  gente" — get  thee  up,  there  are  people  here  !  The 
cousins  roused  themselves,  and  threw  their  hair  over  their  bare 
shoulders  with  a  shake  of  the  head,  and  concealed  their  busts 
in  shawls,  which  they  hastily  put  on,  but  without  an  air  of  sur- 
prise or  embarrassment.  They  smiled,  and  said  that  they  had 
fallen  asleep  in  consequence  of  the  heat.  At  the  other  end  of 
the  room  sat  a  thin  little  man,  with  black  eyes,  mustaches,  and 
a  long  beard,  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  busily  employed  in  making 
paper  cigars.  He  only  bowed  his  head,  but  did  not  speak,  and 
continued  his  employment.  The  aunt,  after  a  communication 
in  a  whisper  from  the  "teniente,"  pressed  us  to  take  dinner 
with  them.  While  it  was  preparing,  the  girls  sang  and  played 
the  guitar,  and  exerted  themselves  to  amuse  us.  There  were 
two  or  three  children  sitting  by  the  window,  studying  their 
lessons  from  a  catechism,  and  a  work  on  Christian  morality ! 

Our  dinner  consisted  of  stewed  chickens,  roasted  lamb,  boiled 
eggs,  rice,  and  a  rout  of  "  pucheros,"  "  papas  con  aji,"  onions, 
cheese,  and  garlic,  with  a  desert  of  melted  "chancaca"  and 
bread.  Before  dinner,  the  man  who  was  employed  making  ci- 
gars disappeared,  and  we  learned  that  he  was  the  lieutenant- 
colonel,  and  did  not  dine  in  consequence  of  indisposition- 

About  three  o'clock,  we  took  leave  of  our  hospitable  friends, 
well  pleased  with  our  reception  and  kind  treatment,  and  re- 
turned on  board  ship. 


388  THREE  YEAKS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Lambayeque  Roads — Derivation  of  the  name  of  the  Pacific — Landing — San 
Jose" — Balsa — Hide  to  Lambayeque — Plaza — The  Capus,  a  dress  worn  pre- 
vious to  the  Conquest — A  curious  currency — The  Church — A  morning 
visit — Chichaifas — Huacas — Chicha —  Gourds — Indians — Town — Products 
— Visit  Chiclayo — Factoria  de  Tobacos — Soap  making — Tanning — Palm 
Sunday — Return  to  Lambayeque — Passion  week — Scenes  at  the  Chicharfa 
and  Billiard  room — Mode  of  embarking. 

On  the  22d  of  March  1833,  we  arrived  in  the  roadstead  of 
Lambayeque,  situated  in  6°  47'  of  south  latitude,  and  anchored 
about  six  miles  from  the  beach.  The  anchorage  is  unprotected 
by  either  point  or  headland,  so  that  it  is  much  like  anchoring 
in  the  open  ocean,  particularly  when  a  fog  covers  the  distant 
shore.  In  any  other  part  of  the  world  it  would  be  dangerous; 
but  here,  where  storms  are  unknown,  and  the  breezes  blow 
steadily  from  one  direction  nearly  throughout  the  year,  it  is 
done  with  impunity.  "This  south  sea,"  says  the  worthy 
Fray  Calancha,  "is  called  the  Pacific,  because,  in  comparison 
with  the  Atlantic,  the  Mediterranean,  the  Red  Sea,  and  the 
Persian  Gulf,  its  storms  are  less  violent  and  fewer,  and  its 
calm  is  more  tranquil.  It  is  also  called  the  sea  of  drunkards, 
because  a  drunken  man  might  navigate  in  it,  and  if  a  vessel  be 
ever  lost,  it  is  entirely  owing  to  the  ignorance  of  the  pilot,  for 
the  navigation  is  safe,  unless  he  go  where  he  should  not.  Both 
ocean  and  ships  are  ruled  over  by  five  beautiful  stars  in  the 
form  of  a  cross — a  happy  prognostic  of  a  holy  domination  over 
sea  and  land — at  the  sight  of  which  the  devil,  even  when  most 
enraged,  retreats,  and  leaves  all  in  tranquillity  !"  But  the  poet 
Peralta,  more  gallantly  at  least,  even  if  less  devoutly,  attri- 
butes the  tranquillity  of  the  Pacific  to  the  mild  spirit  of  its  em- 
press, Amphitrite,  who,  according  to  him,  rules  this  ocean. 

*'  Pacifica  Amphitrite  magestuosa 
Domina  en  Throno  ram  vez  turbado  ; 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  389 

Que  solo  alii  de  su  Deidad  undosa 
El  descuydo  es  despojo  lumentado ; 
Con  que  de  sus  espumas  la  violencia 
Del  error  es  castigo  no  inclemencia  !"* 

Whether  the  cross  of  brilliant  stars  or  the  goddess  keeps 
away  tempests,  I  must  leave  to  the  decision  of  those  who  are 
more  deeply  skilled  in  the  reading  of  the  heavens,  though  I 
hope  the  goddess  may  not  be  cheated  of  her  empire,  since  she 
is  so  beneficent  to  sailors. 

Soon  after  anchoring,  we  took  a  whale  boat  and  pulled  in 
for  the  town,  in  hopes  of  getting  on  board  of  a  balsa,  which  we 
saw  under  sail  close  to  the  shore,  and  which  we  conjectured 
was  steering  for  the  beach ;  but  on  coming  up  with  her,  we 
found  she  was  standing  out  with  goods  for  a  brig  loading  for 
Callao.  Loath  to  return  after  so  long  a  pull,  we  determined  to 
attempt  the  landing  in  our  boat,  though  extremely  hazardous, 
from  the  heavy  surf  that  constantly  lashes  the  beach;  we  did 
not  apprehend  much  danger,  as  the  boat  had  twice  landed  on 
former  occasions  without  the  least  difficulty.  We  rowed  boldly 
into  the  breakers,  and  though  they  boiled  fiercely  around  us, 
we  met  with  nothing  that  caused  us  to  regret  our  undertaking, 
till  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  sand;  then  the  steering  oar 
was  wrenched  from  the  hands  of  our  timoneer.  Now  deprived 
in  a  great  measure  of  the  means  of  managing  the  boat,  she 
came  broadside  to  the  sea,  which  rushed  leaping  and  foaming 
and  roaring  towards  us,  as  if  exulting  in  our  danger.  We 
found  ourselves  in  the  most  imminent  peril;  and  one  of  our 
party  cried  out,  "It  is  all  up  with  us — that  sea  must  turn  us 
-over." 

"Not  so  fast,"  exclaimed  our  timoneer.  "Now  boys  for 
your  lives ! — give  way  your  starboard  oars,  and  back  the  lar- 
board— and  no  crab  catching!"  The  order  was  obeyed  with 
precision,  and  the  stern  of  the  boat  almost  instantly  was  op- 
posed to  the  approaching  sea,  but  not  soon  enough  to  avoid  the 
spray,  which  drenched  us  pretty  thoroughly.   The  boat  mount- 


*  Lima  Fundada.    Canto  I.  st.  xx.  p.  10. 


390  THREE   TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

ed  on  the  crest  of  the  wave  ;  the  oars  were  at  rest,  and  the  next 
moment  we  lay  safely  upon  the  sand. 

At  this  season,  many  families  are  here  from  the  town,  for 
the  benefit  and  pleasure  of  sea  bathing.  More  than  a  hundred 
persons,  men,  women,  and  children,  ran  to  the  beach,  spring- 
ing over  the  balsa  logs  strewed  in  every  direction,  to  see  us 
land.  Some  were  impelled  by  curiosity  to  examine  our  boat, 
never  before  having  seen  one,  except  at  a  distance,  and  others, 
who  had  sympathized  with  us  in  peril,  shouting  for  us  to  turn 
back  long  before  we  were  within  ear-shot,  now  came  to  re- 
prove us  for  our  temerity.  "Que  temeridad  !  exponerse  la 
vida  para  nada !" — What  temerity  !  to  expose  life  for  nothing ! 
said  one. 

"  Unos  calaveras  sin  duda!" — Some  rattlepates,  doubtless! 
cried  another. 

"  Valgame  Dios  !  no  lo  hago  yo  por  diez  mil  pesos !" — The 
Lord  preserve  us!  I  would  not  do  it  for  ten  thousand  dollars! 
exclaimed  a  third;  but  the  young  damsels  spent  their  admira- 
tion on  the  boat.  "Que  buen  bote!  que  bonito  parecia,  en 
laola!  que  bien  andaba  !" — What  an  excellent  boat !  How 
beautiful  she  appeared  on  the  wave  !  How  well  she  sailed  ! 
Indeed,  many  a  boat  has  been  lost  here,  and  money  cannot  in- 
duce these  people  either  to  embark  or  land  in  any  thing  but  a 
balsa.  Seeing  us  dripping  like  river  gods,  several  of  the  good 
people  came  forward,  thanking  Heaven  that  we  were  safe,  and 
offered  us  a  change  of  clothes;  but  our  valise  having  escaped 
being  wet,  we  declined  the  offer,  though  we  were  fain  to  ac- 
cept a  potation  of  pisco  to  keep  out  the  cold. 

Our  boat  was  again  launched,  in  spite  of  protestations,  and 
being  very  buoyant,  was  soon  forced  through  the  breakers,  and 
pulling  away  for  the  ship. 

There  are  a  few  huts  and  store  houses  built  upon  the  shore, 
which  together  form  the  town  of  San  Jose.  The  town  of  Lam- 
bayeque  stands  about  six  miles  to  the  northward  and  west- 
ward. 

The  balsa  used  here,  differs  from  that  of  Coquimbo,  Cobija, 
Arica,  or  Huanchaco  ;  it  consists  of  a  raft  of  large  logs,  of  a 
very  light  species  of  wood  that  grows  near  Guayaquil.    They 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  391 

are  secured  together  by  ropes,  and  a  mast  is  fixed  near  the 
centre,  on  which  a  square  sail  is  set.  The  balsa  is  managed  by 
six  or  eight  Indians,  and  used  for  landing  and  embarking  car- 
goes for  vessels,  for  fishing,  and  many  sail  as  far  north  as  Guaya- 
quil, with  cargoes  of  dry  goods.  Some  are  employed  carrying 
salt  from  Sechura  to  Paita,  and  sometimes  go  as  far  as  thirty 
and  forty  miles  from  the  coast.  They  beat  along  by  standing 
off  all  day  with  the  sea  breeze,  and  laying  on  all  night  with 
the  land  wind,  which  succeed  each  other  very  regularly. 
Their  progress  is  much  more  rapid  than  could  be  possibly 
conjectured  from  a  simple  examination  of  their  structure.  At 
this  port  they  always  land,  sailing  directly  upon  the  beach, 
and  if  not  required  for  immediate  use,  are  at  once  taken  apart, 
because  the  breakers  very  soon  dash  them  to  pieces. 

Wet  as  we  were,  we  mounted  our  horses,  and  in  a  few  mi- 
nutes put  spur  for  the  town  of  Lambayeque.  The  road  lies- 
over  an  irregular  plain,  winding  amongst  sand  hills  and  abori- 
ginal mounds  ;  the  only  vegetation  upon  it  are  a  species  of 
thorn  tree  called  aroma,  and  the  everywhere  pervading  algar- 
robo  tree.  About  seven  o'clock  we  entered  the  town,  amidst 
the  noisy  salutations  of  hosts  of  dogs,  that  were  roused  from 
their  slumbers  at  almost  every  step  ;  they  seem  to  enjoy  great 
privileges,  and  to  judge  from  the  fact,  that  there  is  a  strong 
sympathy  between  poverty  and  dogs,  it  might  be  conjectured 
that  this  town  rejoices  in  a  number  of  poor  inhabitants.  Bells 
were  ringing  and  dogs  were  barking  as  we  passed  through 
the  streets,  while  numerous  little  groups  of  slattern  women  and 
children  were  assembled  at  the  doors.  We  alighted  at  the 
house  of  a  gentleman  of  the  country,  who  had  travelled  in  Eu- 
rope, and  who  speaks  English  very  well,  but  we  found  that 
he  was  absent  in  the  Sierra,  on  a  visit  to  some  of  the  mines. 
According  to  a  previous  agreement  with  him,  we  took  posses- 
sion of  the  house,  and  in  a  very  few  minutes  put  the  servants 
into  requisition,  to  prepare  our  supper  and  beds. 

While  at  tea,  several  neighboring  gentlemen,  and  two  of  our 
countrymen,  residing  here,  came  in  ;  we  passed  all  the  evening 
in  the  house,  conversing  with  our  guests,  one  of  whom  (a  na- 
tive) we  found  to  be  very  intelligent  in  the  history  of  the 


392  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

country,  besides  possessing  very  correct  notions  in  regard  to 
Europe  and  the  United  States. 

The  conversation  turned  upon  the  conquest  of  Mexico  and 
Peru,  and  our  friend,  Don  Francisco,  who,  by  the  way,  was 
as  thin  and  as  dry  as  Don  Quixote  himself,  was  very  warm  in 
the  praise  of  Cortez  and  Pizarro.  He  defended  the  latter  in  the 
part  he  took  in  the  death  of  Atahualpa  the  Inca,  who  was,  ac- 
cording to  him,  an  usurper,  and  deserving  of  his  fate.  When 
I  urged  Pizarro's  ignorance  and  baseness,  he  argued  that  per- 
haps any  other  chief  would  have  pursued  a  similar  policy 
under  similar  circumstances,  and  that  it  was  hardly  probable, 
that  a  man  who  held  such  entire  sway  amongst  his  followers, 
should  be  unable  either  to  read  or  write — particularly  as  he 
governed  men,  who,  according  to  the  Fray  Calancha,  under- 
stood both  those  arts — Don  Francisco  therefore  concluded  that 
such  reports  had  been  propagated  through  envy  by  his  cotem- 
poraries. 

About  four  o'clock  the  next  morning,  we  were  roused  by  the 
ringing  of  bells  and  firing  of  rockets,  accompanied  by  the  music 
of  hautboys,  horns,  and  violins,  which  were  altogether  too  noisy 
to  permit  us  to  sleep.  We  found  it  to  be  a  part  of  a  church 
ceremony,  and  when  we  looked  out  upon  the  street,  the  stars 
were  brilliant,  and  the  sky  almost  transparent. 

Soon  after  sunrise  we  visited  the  plaza,  which  forms  part  of 
every  Spanish  town.  We  found  numbers  of  people  in  the 
street,  passing  thither  to  purchase  the  day's  provisions,  or  re- 
turning with  their  baskets  already  filled.  Now  and  then  we 
passed  a  door,  where  two  or  three  old  men,  in  morning  gowns 
of  calico,  and  white  cotton  caps,  sat  smoking  the  segarrito, 
and  enjoying  the  freshness  of  the  morning. 

Along  one  side  of  the  plaza,  next  to  the  church,  were  the 
market  women,  sitting  amidst  heaps  of  fruit  and  vegetables, 
shaded  by  mats  propped  up  with  canes.  The  women  were  all 
Indians,  short,  and  square  built,  having  coarse  black  hair,  braid- 
ed down  the  back,  black  eyes,  set  well  apart,  white  teeth,  and 
flat  noses.  The  expression  of  the  countenance  is  sad  and  very 
placid,  from  which  might  be  inferred  their  great  docility,  and 
patience  of  suffering.  The  color  of  the  skin  is  a  dark  copper,  ami 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  393 

smooth.   They  are  an  ugly  race,  and  their  full  black  dress  con- 
ceals any  grace  their  figures  may  possess.     It  is  called  the 
"capfis"  (pronounced  capoos),  and  consists  of  two  pieces;  the 
lower  part  is  a  petticoat,  extending  from  above  the  ankle  to 
the  hips,  around  which   it  is  gathered  full  ;  the  upper  part  is 
straight,  and  may  be  compared  to  a  bag,  in  which  slits  are  left 
for  the  head  and  arms  ;  it  is  looped  up  on  the  shoulders  with 
a  black  ribbon  or  string,  like  an  infant's  slip.   A  broad  sash  of 
red  passes  round  the  hips  several  times,  and  secures  the  petti- 
coat and  lower  edge  of  the  "  capus,"  which  being  much  longer 
than  the  body,  falls  down  in  a  sort  of  bagging  fold,  so  as  to 
conceal  the  sash.   The  "capus,"  sitting  loosely,  falls  off  from 
the  bust  in  front,  and  discovers  the  white  chemise  of  coarse 
linen,  embroidered  with  blue  thread,  and  being  neatly  pucker- 
ed about  the  neck,  completely  conceals  the  bosom.  The  sleeves 
of  the  chemise  are  short,  and  also  worked  in  blue  or  pink 
thread.     A  scapulary  of  various  virtues,  or  a  "string  of  black 
beads  and  a  cross  pending  in  front,  is  the  usual  ornament  of 
the  neck,  when  any  is  worn.   To  this  costume,  which  does  not 
differ  very  materially  from  that  used  previous  to  the  conquest, 
is  added  a  white  poncho  or  shawl,  woven  in  a  blue  pattern, 
worn  over  the  shoulders,  and   which  occasionally  serves  to 
sling  "the  mother's  joy"  upon  her  back  ;  while  she  sits  spin- 
ning cotton  after  the  fashion  of  Pacasmayo,  or  disposing  of  her 
truck,  the  infant  sleeps  on  her  back,  and  lolls  its  head  and  arms 
out  of  its  sack,  in  vain  endeavoring  to  reach  the  ground  ;  and 
it  is  rarely  that  these  children  are  heard  to  weep  or  complain 
while  near  the  mother.   The  little  urchin  soon  learns  to  attract 
the  parent's  attention,  by  tugging  her  ear  or  hair,  and  is  sure 
then  to  be  hauled  by  the  heels  over  the  shoulder,  and  his  lips 
applied  to  the  fountain  of  the  purest  as  well  as  the  earliest 
food. 

On  another  side  of  the  plaza,  are  three  or  four  moveable 
shambles  for  butcher's  meat,  shaded  by  mats,  and  surrounded 
by  a  bevy  of  idle  curs.  Besides  a  variety  of  fruits,  amongst 
which  are  fine  cherimoyas  and  grapes,  several  kinds  of  fish, 
some  salted,  and  some  fresh,  were  spread  out  on  mats ;  amongst 
those  salted,  were  the  flounder  and  skate.  A  small  shell  fish,, 
50 


394  THREE   TEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

known  to  conchologists  under  the  name  of  donax,  was  ex- 
posed for  sale  in  little  heaps. 

The  want  of  small  coin  in  Lambayeque,  has  given  rise  to  a 
curious  way  of  making  change.  The  smallest  coin  in  circula- 
tion here,  is  a  medio  (6i  cents,)  though  in  Lima,  the  cuartillo, 
equal  to  half  that  sum,  is  found,  but  in  limited  numbers.  To 
remedy  this,  a  conventional  law  has  made  two  eggs  equal  to  a 
cuartillo  ;  when  the  port  has  been  for  a  long  time  without  visit- 
ers, the  currency  depreciates  so  much,  that  three  or  four  eggs 
are  required  to  equal  that  sum,  though  this  is  less  fluctuating 
than  the  currency  either  of  Brazil  or  Buenos  Ayres. 

The  dress  of  the  male  Indians  consists  of  a  pair  of  breeches, 
tight  round  the  hips,  and  loose  or  bagging  behind,  and  open  at 
the  knee,  showing  the  embroidered  linen  or  cotton  drawers. 
A  poncho,  folded  and  laid  over  one  shoulder,  is  carried  even 
during  the  warm  weather,  and  sometimes  a  jacket  is  worn.  A 
large  hat  of  Guayaquil  manufacture,  forms  a  conspicuous  part 
of  the  dress,  and  when  mounted,  the  heels  are  armed  with 
huge  spurs  of  iron  or  silver.  Like  the  women,  their  faces  are 
serene,  and  seldom  lighted  by  a  smile;  they  are  short,  square 
built,  and  possess  very  sturdy  limbs. 

The  plaza,  at  an  early  hour,  presents  a  curious  scene  to  the 
eye  of  the  stranger  ;  and  if  he  would  see  the  world  of  Lam- 
bayeque, at  this  season,  he  must  visit  this  spot  before  the  pow- 
erful sun  has  driven  every  body  home.  Amongst  the  heaps  of 
fruit,  shaded  by  mats  that  look  like  so  many  targets,  are  seat- 
ed the  Indian  women,  in  the  capus,  ti  hi  Turque,  or  thread- 
ing their  way  among  them  with  infants  slung  upon  their  backs, 
loitering  here  and  there,  to  gossip  in  a  singing  tone,  and  pur- 
chase their  frugal  meals.  These  are  contrasted  with  the  more 
animated  Creoles,  sambos,  and  whites,  of  both  sexes,  who  ap- 
pear in  gayer  attire.  At  one  corner  are  assembled  the  asses 
and  mules,  with  empty  capachos  and  panniers,  whisking  away 
the  flies,  or  nodding  in  the  shade.  The  bells  are  ringing,  and 
on  the  terrace  around  the  church  are  seen  ladies  in  saya  y  man- 
to,  and  in  the  mantilla  of  Cadiz,  and  fat  headed  friars  in  black 
robes,  walking  very  leisurely  to  matins  or  confession  ;  for  at 
this  early  hour  the  conscience  is  lighter,  the  memory  is  clear- 


NOTICES  OF  TERTT.  395 

er,  and  the  stomach  is  not  employed  in  digestion.  At  the  same 
time,  the  water  carriers,  seemingly  as  gay  as  the  morning,  are 
hurrying  along,  chirping  or  whistling  to  their  asses  loaded 
with  cool  water  dripping  from  the  kegs. 

We  entered  the  only  church  in  Lambayeque.  It  is  built  of 
adobes  and  brick,  is  terraced  round,  and  occupies  one  side  of 
the  plaza.  It  has  a  tower  or  belfry  about  a  hundred  feet  high. 
The  interior,  like  all  Catholic  churches,  contains  several  altars 
and  saintly  shrines.  The  altar  cloths  are  secured  by  a  great 
iron  hasp  and  padlock,  which  conveyed  to  my  mind  a  dark 
meaning,  that  had  some  relation  to  the  honesty  of  those  who 
visit  these  shrines.  The  pulpit,  as  well  as  some  of  the  altars, 
are  heavily  carved  and  richly  gilt,  and  the  square  columns  are 
hung  with  crimson  damask,  trimmed  with  tawdry  yellow  lace, 
but  the  whole  is  tarnished  and  covered  with  dust.  The  choir 
contained  an  organ,  a  rudely  constructed  but  sweet  toned  harp, 
two  horns,  two  vocalists,  and  a  violin.  The  music  was  solemn 
and  soothing  at  times,  and  then  lively.  The  organ  always 
sounded  without  accompaniment. 

Several  women,  some  in  saya  y  manto,  and  one  or  two  in 
the  mantilla,  were  kneeling  on  mats  or  rugs,  in  the  nave  of 
the  church,  counting  their  beads,  while  two  priests  were  chant- 
ing mass  before  the  altar.  In  distant  corners  of  the  temple, 
two  were  kneeling  beside  confessionals,  whispering  through 
its  sieve-like  pane  into  the  ear  of  a  friar  seated  within  the  box, 
while  two  or  three  irreverent  curs  were  gamboling  amongst 
the  kneeling  women.  One  old  lady  was  apparently  much  an- 
noyed, and  occasionally  interrupted  her  devotions  to  cast  a  re- 
proving glance  upon  the  sporting  dogs,  and  then  relaxed  her 
countenance  to  a  proper  devotional  longitude.  Just  as  she  was 
concluding  a  prayer  with  "Bendito  sea  Dios,"  a  little  dog 
leaped  against  her.  Her  equanimity  was  overthrown,  and  she 
exclaimed  in  an  angry  but  subdued  tone,  "  zafe  perro,  sin  ver- 
guenza  !" — out,  dog,  without  shame  ;  but  the  dog  seemed  to 
enjoy  her  anxiety,  and  did  not  desist  till  she  struck  at  him 
with  her  rosary. 

About  noon,  in  spite  of  the  oppressive  heat,  we  passed 
through  the  silent  streets,  to  visit  a  family  that  one  of  us  had 


396  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

formerly  known.  The  matron  made  her  appearance,  with  her 
arms  drawn  out  of  the  sleeves  of  her  dress,  which  were  pen- 
dent at  her  sides,  her  hair  hanging  down  her  back  and  shoul- 
ders, and  her  bosom  nearly  bare.  In  this  slovenly  attire,  for 
which  the  heat  is  offered  as  an  apology?  it  is  not  uncommon 
for  married  ladies  of  Lambayeque  to  be  seen,  in  their  own 
houses,  during  the  summer  season.  As  is  customary  in  other 
countries  besides  this,  the  conversation  began  upon  the  wea- 
ther. "  Que  calor  hace  !" — how  warm  it  is  !  said  Dona  Juan- 
ita,  (the  elderly  matrons  are  always  pleased  to  have  the  dimi- 
nutive annexed  to  their  names,  even  after  the  hair  has  become 
silvered,)  at  the  same  time  passing  her  pocket  handkerchief, 
first  on  one  side  of  her  neck,  and  then  on  the  other,  to  dry  away 
the  effects  of  the  heat  of  which  she  complained.  This  remark 
was  most  philosophically  replied  to  by  a  young  Peruvian  of 
our  party  : — "  Si,  Senorita  ! — Es  verdad,  pero  es  la  fruta  de  la 
estacion." — Yes,  madam  ! — It  is  true,  but  it  is  the  fruit  of  the 
season.  After  exhausting  the  subject  of  the  weather,  not  for- 
getting to  dwell  on  the  pleasures  and  advantages  of  sea-bathing, 
the  comparative  facility  of  learning  various  languages  was  next 
discussed.  On  a  due  consideration  of  French,  Italian  and  Eng- 
lish, Spanish  was  decided  to  be  more  easily  acquired  by  fo- 
reigners than  any  other,  "  porque  como  se  pronuncia  se  escri- 
be, y  como  se  escribe  se  pronuncia," — because  as  it  is  pro- 
nounced it  is  written,  and  as  it  is  written  it  is  pronounced  ;  but, 
continued  our  hostess,  "el  idioma  de  ustedes  se  escribe  de  un 
modo,  y  se  habla  de  otro," — your  language  is  written  in  one 
way,  and  spoken  in  another.  These  remarks  I  have  heard  in 
every  town  from  Valparaiso  to  Panama.  After  waiting  some 
time,  and  losing  all  patience  for  the  appearance  of  the  young 
ladies,  the  mother  observed,  "  las  nifias  estan  pein^ndose," — 
the  girls  are  dressing — but  as  the  hair  is  the  material  part  of 
the  female  toilet  in  South  America,  the  expression  is  better 
rendered,  "  the  girls  are  combing."* 


•  I  am  informed  by  an  English  lady  who  lias  long  resided  in  Lima,  that  the 
belles  never  wear  corsets,  except  on  the  occasion  of  attending-  public  balls  ; 
hence  whatever  beauty  their  persons  may  possess  is  natural,  and  not  the  re- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  397 

About  five  o'clock  the  heat  had  partially  subsided,  and  the 
houses  in  the  streets  running  north  and  south,  cast  a  complete 
shade.  We  strolled  out,  and  found  a  large  portion  of  the  po- 
pulation seated  at  their  doors,  the  men  smoking  cigars,  and  the 
women  dressed,  and  their  heads  ornamented  with  fresh  pluck- 
ed flowers.  Near  the  river,  which  passes  on  the  north  side  of 
the  town,  is  a  large  building,  formerly  used  as  an  hospital,  but 
now  in  ruins  ;  at  its  corner  were  seated  upon  the  door  sill,  se- 
veral gentlemen,  amongst  whom  were  the  governor  and  a 
number  of  officers  of  the  customs,  conversing  and  chatting  over 
their  cigars.  After  a  few  remarks,  we  continued  our  paseo 
across  the  bridge,  wbich  is  now  swagging  sadly  in  the  centre. 
It  is  built  of  reeds  laid  athwart,  and  covered  with  earth,  sup- 
ported by  piles  of  algarrobo  wood  that  have  become  almost  as 
hard  as  stone,  though  they  have  been  standing  for  a  hundred 
years.  The  river  is  about  a  hundred  feet  wide,  and  twelve  or 
fourteen  deep.  Generally  it  runs  with  an  easy  current,  but 
when  the  snows  melt  in  the  mountains,  after  a  hard  winter,  it 
overflows  its  banks,  carrying  every  thing  before  it.  In  March 
1791,  the  town  was  inundated,  and  many  lives  destroyed  ; 
again,  in  1828,  the  hospital  before  mentioned  was  nearly  de- 
stroyed, and  canoes  were  floated  in  the  streets  for  several  days. 

Lambayeque  is  celebrated  for  its  excellent  chicha,  and  it  is 
one  of  the  few  places  in  Peru  that  Taralla  speaks  well  of: — 

"  Que  llegas  a  Lambayeque 
Abundante  fertil  pueblo, 
Cuyos  Indios,  y  vecinos 
Son  del  agrado  el  modelo." 

Along  the  streets  are  seen  poles  projecting  horizontally  from 
the  tops  of  the  ranchos,  with  a  bunch  of  corn  leaves  tied  on 
the  end,  which  indicate  that  chicha  is  to  be  sold  within.  Near 
the  extremity  of  the  bridge,  opposite  to  the  town,  is  a  "  chi- 
charia,"  at  present  in  high  repute  for  the  excellence  of  its  li- 
quor.    Here  we  found  two  or  three  young  gentlemen,  and  a 

suit  of  that  much-to-be-deprecated  habit  of  squeezing  and  lacing,  so  generally 
practised  both  in  England  and  the  United  States,  to  the  prejudice  of  health, 
and  often  to  the  peril  of  life. 


39S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

jolly  friar,  styled  Fray  Tomas,  chatting  over  their  mates  of 
chicha,  and  smoking  cigars.  Fray  Tomas  is  a  remarkable  little 
man,  not  only  for  his  short  stature  and  well  filled  rotundity, 
but  for  his  neat  manner  of  dressing.  He  usually  wears  a  black 
silk  vest,  carelessly  buttoned,  so  as  to  display  to  advantage  a 
neatly  embroidered  shirt  bosom  and  ruffles,  black  velvet  small 
clotbes,  secured  at  the  knee  with  gold  buckles,  black  velvet 
pumps,  tied  in  bows  of  black  ribbon,  and  his  well  proportioned 
calf  covered  in  black  worsted  hose.  His  upper  garment  is  a 
striped  gingham  surtout,  short  in  the  waist,  and  reaching  be- 
low the  knees.  A  low,  straight  stock,  with  purple  edging,  is 
worn  about  his  neck,  and  a  heavy  gold  chain  and  seals  hang 
from  his  waistband,  like  a  kedge  anchor  from  the  bows  of  a 
frigate.  When  he  walks  out,  he  wears  a  thin  black  cloth  cloak, 
and  a  clerical  hat  rolled  up  at  the  sides,  which  shelters  his  lit- 
tle face,  at  the  same  time  hiding  his  thin  black  hair  and  ton- 
sure ;  besides,  he  carries  a  gold  mounted  Molluca  stick  about 
four  feet  long.  Altogether,  Fray  Tomas  is  a  trig,  merry  son 
of  the  church,  of  fifty  years  old,  who  leads  an  easy  life,  saying 
mass,  exhibiting  the  sacrament,  and  employing  his  leisure  in 
playing  cards,  smoking  cigars,  and  drinking  chicha.  He  is 
courteous  and  talkative,  and  delights  in  mixing  the  "Nectar 
del  Peru,"  as  he  styles  it,  of  different  brewings,  always  desir- 
ing the  opinion  of  the  company,  whether  it  be  not  improved. 
Like  most  of  the  clergy  in  Peru,  he  is  skilled  in  Latin  and 
church  history,  and  besides,  has  somewhat  of  an  antiquarian 
taste,  which  he  indulges  occasionally  upon  inquiries  about  the 
huacas  and  graves  of  the  children  of  the  sun,  and  always  dwells 
with  particular  gusto  upon  the  chicha  sometimes  found  in  them, 
which  he  represents  as  becoming  much  stronger  than  brandy. 
Speaking  of  the  huacas,  the  question  was  agitated,  whether 
they  were  tombs,  or  depots  for  treasure,  or  strong  holds.  Fray 
Tomas  thinks  they  are  the  depots  for  treasure,  because  the 
burying  places  are  always  found  in  the  plains,  and  that  nothing 
but  treasures  are  ever  found  in  the  huacas,  while  in  the  graves, 
jars  of  chicha,  or  some  implements  of  industry,  arc  only  met 
with.  I  expressed  a  desire  to  visit  a  huaca  which  is  near  the 
town,  to  satisfy  my  curiosity  upon  the  subject.     At  this  mo- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  399 

ment,  a  tall  Indian,  whose  person  was  but  partially  concealed 
by  a  dirty  poncho  rolled  about  him,  who  was  leaning  against 
a  post,  arms  folded,  a  leg  crossed  over  the  other,  toe  resting 
on  the  ground,  and  head  reclining  slightly  backward,  listening 
silently  to  our  conversation,  remarked,  that  it  would  be  dan- 
gerous to  visit  that  huaca,  because  it  was  enchanted.  "  No  hay 
tal — tu  no  sabes  nada" — It  is  no  such  thing — thou  knowest 
nothing — said  the  priest  snappishly,  and  then  in  a  softer  tone 
said  to  me,  "No  le  crea  Vmd-" — Dont  you  believe  him — at 
the  same  time,  with  a  significant  look,  moving  his  forefinger 
before  his  nose,  from  one  side  to  the  other.  He  then  observed, 
that  there  was  a  huaca  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  be- 
came enchanted  in  a  curious  manner.  Two  parties,  without  any 
knowledge  of  the  intentions  of  each  other,  commenced  mining 
on  opposite  sides,  at  night,  with  the  view  of  keeping  their 
work  secret.  At  last  the  adits  met  in  the  centre,  and  when  the 
earth  between  them  grew  thin,  they  heard  strange  sounds, 
which  they  attributed  to  enchanted  Indians,  who  were  disturb- 
ed by  their  labors.  Presently  the  partition  broke,  and  there 
was  a  rush  of  wind  through  the  aperture,  that  reduced  all  to 
darkness.  The  workmen  threw  down  their  tools,  and  fled  in 
great  consternation,  and  though  it  was  fully  explained,  the 
lower  orders  never  could  be  persuaded  that  the  huaca  was  not 
enchanted. 

Though  many  Huacas  have  been  explored,  and  yielded  large 
amounts  in  gold,  there  are  still  many  which  remain  untouched  ; 
these  may  reward  the  enterprise  of  some  fortune-hunting  indi- 
vidual. There  is  an  anecdote  told  in  Truxillo,  of  a  poor  but  in- 
dustrious Spaniard,  who  gained  the  esteem  of  an  old  Indian, 
by  kind  offices,  and  protecting  him  from  the  operation  of  the 
mita  system.  The  Indian  described  a  spot  in  Chimu,  where 
the  Spaniard  found  more  than  a  million  in  gold,  in  utensils  and 
ornaments,  and  promised  to  tell  him  before  his  death  where 
he  might  obtain  much  more,  saying  that  he  had  only  got  a 
single  egg  from  the  nest.  In  gratitude  for  this  mark  of  confi- 
dence, the  Spaniard  purchased  an  exemption  from  personal 
service  in  the  mines,  for  the  Indian  and  all  of  his  tribe,  but  the 
old  man  died,  and  his  secret  was  buried  with  him ! 


400  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

One  afternoon  we  visited  some  Huacas  in  the  vicinity,  which, 
among  the  Indians,  have  the  reputation  of  being  enchanted. 
They  resemble  fortresses  more  than  anything  else.    In  the  in- 
terior of  one  of  them  there  is  a  wall,  made  of  adobes  of  differ- 
ent sizes,  which  appears  as  if  it  had  been  heavily  rained  om 
They  are  about  thirty  feet  high,  a  hundred  feet  square,  and  of 
a  pyramidal  shape.    There  is  no  trace  of  graves  or  bones  any 
where  in  their  neighborhood.   The  age  of  these  mounds  is  not 
known,  for  we  are  told  that  seven  hundred  years  ago,  their 
origin  and  use  were  as  great  a  mystery  as  at  the  present  day. 
The  term  Huaca,  in  the  Quichua  language,  signifies  "  to  weep," 
and  hence  the  general  impression   that  these   mounds  were 
graves  or  places  of  interment.    The  amount  of  treasure  taken 
from  them  at  different  times,  is  very  great.    It  is  stated  in  the 
"  Diario  de  Lima,"  for  1791,  that,  from  the  year  1550  to  1590, 
the  king's  fifths  amounted  to  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  Cas- 
tellanos*  of  gold,  worth  about  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  ! 
Chicha  was  a  liquor  used  by  the  aborigines  before  the  con- 
quest, which  is  proven  by  its  having  been  found  in  their  tombs. 
Chicha  of  the  present  day  is  of  the  consistence  of  milk,  of  a 
yellowish  color,  and  when  poured  from  one  vessel  into  another, 
froths  like  beer;  generally  its  taste  is  slightly  acid,  but  when 
very  good,  the  acidity  is  scarcely  perceptible.   The  process  of 
making  it  is  simple.    Indian  corn  is  steeped  in  water  till  it 
swells ;  it  is  then  dried,  and  ground ;  the  flour  and  bran  are 
boiled  in  water,  strained,  and  left  to   ferment    twenty-four 
hours,  when  it  is  fit  for  use.   Sugar  is  occasionally  added,  and 
it  is  sometimes  made  into  flip  with  eggs.   Foreigners  are  gene- 
rally disgusted  with  chicha,  because  they  are  told  that  it  is 
made  by  chewing  the  corn,  and  spitting  the  saliva  into  a  com- 
mon receptacle,  where  it  is  left  to  ferment  I    This  is  called 
"  chicha  mascada,"  and  1  am  assured  that  it  is  thus  made  in 
several  places,  t 


•  A  Castellano  is  one  hundredth  part  of  a  Spanish  pound. 

■J-  Chicha  bears  some  resemblance,  at  least  in  its  manufacture,  to  the  Epeah- 
la,  made  by  some  of  the  "  Ilollontontes"  on  the  southern  coast  of  Africa.  Sec 
Owen's  Vuyugcs,  to  explore  Jifrica  and  Arabia, 


NOTICES  OP  PERU. 


401 


The  following  verses  in  praise  of  chicha  are  sung  to  an  agree- 
able air,  both  in  Peru  and  Chile,  on  all  occasions  of  festivity 
that  partake  of  a  national  character  : 

LETRILLA. 

Patriotas,  el  mate 
Be  chicha  llenad, 
Y  alegres  brindemos 
Por  la  liberlad. 

Oh  licor  precio9o! 
Tu  licor  peruano, 
Licor  sobre  humano, 
Mitiga  mi  sed. 

Oh  nectar  sabroso 
De  color  del  oro, 
Del  indio  tesoro! 
Patriotas,  bebed. 
Patriotas,  &c. 

Sobre  la  jalea 
Del  aji  untada 
Con  mano  enlazada 
El  poto  apurad : 

Y  este  brindis  sea 
El  signo  que  damos 
A  los  que  engendramos 
En  la  libertad. 

Patriotas,  &c. 


Cubra  nuestras  mesas 
El  chupe  y  quesillo 
Y  el  aji  amarillo, 
El  celeste  aji. 

Y  a  nuestras  cabezas 
La  chicha  se  vuele, 
La  que  hacer  se  suele 
De  maiz  6  mani. 
Patriotas,  &c. 


Esta  es  mas  sabrosa 
Que  el  vino  y  la  cidra 
Que  nos  trajo  la  hidra 
Para  envenenar. 

Es  muy  espumosa : 

Y  yo  la  prefiero 
A  cuanto  el  ibero 
Pudo  codiciar. 

Patriotas,  &.c. 

El  Inca  la  usaba 
En  su  regia  mesa 
Con  que  ahora  no  empieza, 
Que  es  inmemorial. 

Bien  puede  el  que  acaba 
Perdir  se  renueve 
El  poto  en  que  bebe 
O  su  caporal. 

Patriotas,  &c. 

El  seviche  venga, 
La  guatia  en  seguida, 
Que  tambien  combida 

Y  esita  a  beber. 
Todo  indio  sostenga 

Con  el  poto  en  mano 
Que  a  todo  tirano 
Ha  de  aborrecer. 
Patriotas,  &c. 
51 


Al  caliz  amargo 
De  tantos  disgustos 
Sucedan  los  gustos, 
Suceda  el  placer. 

De  nuestro  letargo 
A  una  despertamos : 
Y  tambien  logramos 
Libres  por  fin  ser. 
Patriotas,  &c. 

Gloria  eterna  demos 
Al  heroe  divino 
Que  nuestro  destino 
Cambiado  ha  por  por  fin. 

Su  nombre  gravemos 
En  el  tronco  bruto 
Del  arbol  que  el  fruto 
Debe  a  San  Martin. 
Patriotas,  &c. 


402  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

The  gourds  from  which  chicha  is  drunk,  are  called  mates. 
Gourds  grow  here  to  an  astonishing  size,  and  are  converted  into 
all  kinds  of  household  utensils  required  by  the  Indians.  The 
small  ones  are  made  into  bottles,  drinking  cups,  and  plates,  and 
the  large  ones  into  dishes,  and  even  into  wash  tubs! 

The  Indians  and  common  people  pay  less  attention  to  per- 
sonal cleanliness  than  at  any  other  place  I  have  visited.  The 
better  classes,  though  slovenly  in  their  dress,  are  extremely 
careful  to  wash  and  bathe  frequently  in  the  river.  In  our  walks, 
we  often  saw  men  and  women  bathing  together,  in  a  paucity 
of  clothing  ;  and  children  of  both  sexes,  of  eight  or  ten  years 
of  age,  are  seen  plunging  in  the  river,  and  even  playing  through 
the  streets  entirely  naked. 

The  food  of  the  Indians  consists  of  a  little  fish,  salted  or  fresh, 
parched  corn,  and  chicha.  They  sometimes  indulge  in  eggs, 
but  not  often,  for  it  is  like  eating  up  their  own  gold  !  These 
people  still  bear  the  impress  of  the  Spanish  domination,  evinced 
in  their  silent,  tolerant  manners.  They  are  extremely  supersti- 
tious, and  resort  to  witchcraft  for  the  cure  of  diseases,  and  give 
a  large  portion  of  their  gains  to  the  church;  they  spend  every 
thing  in  wax,  for  religious  ceremonies,  and  chicha.  The  women 
carry  heavy  loads  of  wood,  and  great  jars  of  water,  enough  in 
appearance  to  weigh  down  a  man.  They  are  a  short,  square 
built  people,  possessed  of  mild  countenances,  but  an  ugly  race 
withal.  Honesty  is  a  rare  virtue  among  them.  I  am  told  they 
were  in  the  habit  of  placing  combustibles  against  store  doors, 
and  silently  burning  their  way  in  ;  to  avoid  which,  many  doors 
were  made  double,  having  the  interstitial  space  filled  with 
rockets  to  give  alarm.  Both  in  Lambayeque  and  Chiclayo,  a 
town  about  five  miles  distant,  there  are  Indians  who  trace  their 
genealogy  back  to  the  Caciques;  and  one  old  man  in  the  latter 
village  is  familiarly  styled  "el  Cacique." 

The  town  of  Lambayeque  contains  at  present  about  twelve 
thousand  inhabitants,  including  whites,  blacks,  sambos,  In- 
dians, and  castes.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  intersect  each 
other  nearly  at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  generally  one 
story  high,  and  resemble  those  of  Lima  in  their  architecture. 
There  are  no  wheeled  carriages  in  the  place,  with  the  excep- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  403 

t-ion  of  a  sort  of  cart,  made  of  heavy  pieces  of  algarrobo,  sup- 
ported on  low  wooden  trucks,  and  drawn  by  oxen. 

Many  years  ago,  this  place  was  inhabited  by  Indians  alone, 
the  capital  of  the  province  being  Sana,  situated  a  few  leagues 
to  the  southward;  but  after  the  latter  town  was  sacked  by  an 
English  pirate,  about  the  year  16S5,  the  inhabitants  removed 
to  Lambayeque.  "  Old  Lambayeque"  applies  now  to  the  site 
of  an  ancient  Indian  village,  about  four  miles  to  the  northward. 

The  country  around,  for  many  leagues,  is  a  plain,  watered 
by  the  river  of  Lambayeque,  which  bursts  over  the  land  in  al- 
most every  direction,  and  like  the  Nile,  carries  fertility  with 
it;  these  vagrant  streams  terminate  in  small  lagoons,  which 
have  so  much  encroached  upon  the  roads  in  many  places,  that 
a  guide  is  necessary  to  lead  one  through  the  many  paths,  wind- 
ing among  algarrobo  and  other  trees,  which  grow  thickly 
everywhere,  a  half  mile  from  town. 

This  province,  sometimes  styled  the  garden  of  Peru,  pro- 
duces excellent  sugar,  tobacco,  rice,  soap,  hides,  and  cordovan 
leather.  The  tobacco  and  sugar  have  been  sent  from  the 
earliest  times  to  the  Chilian  and  Panama  markets;  the  soap 
and  leather  were  usually  consumed  at  Lima.  Lately,  how- 
ever, from  difficulties  existing  between  the  governments  of 
Peru  and  Chile,  the  export  of  sugar  has  been  very  limited  ;  the 
latter  having  imposed  a  duty  of  twelve  dollars  the  quintal  on 
all  Peruvian  sugars,  not  because  the  article  is  raised  in  Chile, 
but  to  retaliate  on  Peru  for  the  imposition  of  a  heavy  duty  on 
Chilian  bread  stuffs  !  The  fruits  are  similar  to  those  of  Lima. 
Large  quantities  of  sweetmeats,  both  dry  and  in  syrup,  are 
made  in  the  town,  from  peaches,  quinces,  and  grapes,  the  lat- 
ter being  most  esteemed. 

Besides  all  the  fruits  of  the  soil,  large  amounts  in  silver  bul- 
lion, from  the  mines  of  Hualgayoc  and  Caxamarca,  are  ex- 
ported, in  spite  of  the  law,  and  sold  either  at  Callao  or  Valpa- 
raiso, to  English  or  American  merchants.  The  ingenuity  prac- 
tised by  the  owners  of  the  silver  to  elude  the  custom  house  is 
admirable.  It  is  sometimes  packed  in  bales  of  soap,  and  some- 
times in  bags  of  rice,  and  in  that  way  arrives  on  board  of  the 
men-of-war,  where  the  silver  is  removed,  and  the  rice  and 


404  TIIHEE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

soap  sent  on  board  of  some  merchant  vessel.  A  custom  house 
officer  once  observing  a  great  number  of  apparent  hales  of  soap, 
thai  were;  being  embarked  on  board  of  an  American  man-of- 
war,  remarked  very  archly,  "  the  Americans  must  be  a  dirty 
people,  to  require  so  much  soap  to  keep  one  ship's  company 
clean!" 

English  and  American  naval  commanders  receive  one  and  a 
half  per  cent,  freight  for  carrying  specie  or  bullion,  and  one 
per  cent,  deposite.  The  French  government  does  not  allow 
their  officers  any  privilege  of  the  kind.  This  freight  money, 
with  the  English,  is  divided  between  the  captain,  admiral  of 
the  station,  and  the  Greenwich  hospital ;  with  Americans,  it 
"  is  to  be  equally  divided  between  the  captain  of  the  vessel 
and  the  Navy  Pension  Fund."  By  this  business,  in  the  time 
of  the  revolution,  some  commanders  gained  eighty  and  even  a 
hundred  thousand  dollars,  in  the  course  of  a  three  years'  cruise. 
In  those  days,  it  was  not  uncommon  for  a  million  in  plate  and 
bullion  to  be  shipped  at  one  time,  to  save  it  from  the  hands  of 
patriot  or  royalist,  as  the  fortune  of  either  happened  to  be  as- 
cendant. 

The  Indians  manufacture  a  variety  of  cotton  fabrics,  which 
are  consumed  in  the  country  ;  such  as  cotton  counterpanes  with 
raised  figures,  straw  hats  of  a  variety  of  colors,  petiites  or  mats, 
and  segarreros. 

Some  years  ago,  a  holy  friar  and  his  nephew,  who  was  anx- 
ious for  promotion  in  the  Spanish  army,  left  Truxillo  for  Spain, 
the  latter  carrying  with  him  one  of  the  finest  segarrdros  made 
in  the  country.  The  friar  contrived  in  a  short  time  to  ingratiate 
himself  with  the  king,  and  get  appointed  one  of  his  Christian 
Majesty's  confessors ;  and  the  nephew,  who  was  blessed  with 
winning  manners,  soon  became  in  such  high  favor  as  to  visit 
his  king  in  his  chamber  before  he  arose  from  bed,  "for  you 
know,"  said  the  old  gentleman  who  told  me  the  story,  "that 
kings  never  get  up  before  twelve  o'clock."  One  morning,  the 
king  told  the  nephew  to  take  a  cigar  from  the  royal  segarr6ro, 
"  which  was  a  great  honor,"  and  observing  that  it  was  a  very 
coarse  one,  not  worth  more  than  two  reales  in  Lambayeque, 
the  young  man  very  humbly  proposed  to  exchange  it  for  the 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  405 

beautifully  fine  one  he  had  brought  with  him.  To  his  unspeak- 
able joy,  the  offer  was  accepted  !  For  a  time,  the  king's  segar- 
rero  was  the  admiration  and  theme  of  conversation  with  the 
whole  Spanish  court.  The  friar  at  once  sent  to  Peru,  and  im- 
ported the  finest  cigar  boxes  that  had  ever  been  seen  in  all 
Spain,  and  such  was  the  rage  and  fashion  for  these  segarreros, 
that  they  sold  for  fifty,  and  even  a  hundred  dollars  each,  and 
many  Indians  grew  rich  by  plaiting  them  !  But  the  most  im- 
portant result  of  the  exchange  was,  that  his  majesty  appointed 
the  young  man  to  an  office  near  his  person,  which  was  no  doubt 
turned  to  advantage,  both  by  the  confessor  and  his  winning 
nephew  ! 

One  Sunday,  we  mounted  our  horses  at  seven  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  and  set  off  for  Chiclayo.  The  road  winds  first  among 
algarrobo  trees  and  lagoons,  in  which  were  several  storks  and 
a  variety  of  white  herons  feeding  ;  and  the  trees  were  filled 
with  wild  pigeons.  Near  Chiclayo,  the  road  was  enclosed  be- 
tween green  hedges,  running  through  fields  of  sugar  cane  and 
rice. 

The  entrance  to  the  town  is  through  a  gateway,  with  square 
white  pillars,  and  over  a  short  bridge,  thrown  across  an  ace- 
quia  or  ditch.  The  first  building  is  a  large  one,  called  "  Fac- 
toria  de  Tobacos,"  where,  during  the  Spanish  colonial  govern- 
ment, tobacco  was  bought  by  the  Real  Hacienda,  or  Royal 
Treasury,  and  packed  up  in  long  rolls,  about  two  inches  in 
diameter,  called  "mazos."  A  million  of  these  rolls  were  an- 
nually exported  to  Chile,  where  this  tobacco  is  esteemed  and 
still  purchased  by  the  Estanco  or  monopoly,  though  it  is  not 
used  in  Peru.  The  price  was  fixed  by  the  "  Direccion  General 
de  Lima,"  at  seventy-five  dollars  for  a  thousand  rolls,  which 
were  sold  at  the  same  rate  per  hundred,  yielding  a  large  profit 
to  the  government.  Though  the  building  has  changed  masters, 
it  is  still  used  for  drying  and  packing  tobacco  for  exportation. 

Chiclayo  is  smaller  than  Lambayeque,  which  it  closely  re- 
sembles in  general  appearance,  the  population,  lately  very 
much  increased,  not  exceeding  eight  thousand  souls.  The 
plaza  is  a  parallelogram,  having  a  church  on  one  corner.  On 
one  side  of  it  is  a  small  apothecary  shop,  tenanted  by  a  tall 


406  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

yankee  master  of  the  pestle  and  mortar,  whom  I  remember  to 
have  seen  several  years  ago  in  Lima.  He  told  me  that  he 
was  married,  "  made  out  to  get  a  living,"  and.  that  there  was 
an  American  carpenter  in  the  place.  There  is  not  an  out  of 
the  way  corner  in  the  world,  where  some  of  our  enterprising 
countrymen,  from  "the  land  of  steady  habits,"  are  not  met 
with  ! 

We  stopped  at  the  house  of  Don  Antonio,  which  is  at  one 
end  of  the  square,  and  by  far  the  neatest  in  the  place.  Don 
Antonio  was  making  his  toilet  in  the  sala,  and  saluted  us  with 
a  nod,  without  saying  a  word,  but  continued  buttoning  and  ad- 
justing his  shirt  bosom.  One  of  our  party  thought  the  recep- 
tion so  cold,  that  he  said  something  about  returning.  Before 
our  host  found  leisure  to  speak,  we  had  examined  him,  the 
apartment,  and  its  furniture.  He  is  a  Spaniard,  about  forty 
years  of  age,  with  a  short  corpulent  stature,  surmounted  by  a 
square,  stupid,  inoffensive  face,  not  at  all  set  off  by  his  thin 
hair  and  light  colored  eyebrows.  The  apartment  was  large, 
airy,  clean,  and  floored  with  tiles.  The  furniture  consisted  of 
a  Guayaquil  hammock,  stretched  across  one  end  of  the  room, 
two  leather  backed  sofas,  a  baize  covered  table,  and  a  host  of 
sulphur  colored  Windsor  chairs,  enough  to  make  one  pant  with 
heat.  A  pair  of  tame  black-birds  were  hopping  about,  picking 
up  flies. 

At  last,  Don  Antonio,  with  a  deep  sigh,  gathering  up  the 
clothes  he  had  just  thrown  off,  said,  "  Puez  Senores,  porque 
no  se  asientan  ustedes" — Well,  gentlemen,  why  don't  you  sit 
yourselves  down;  and  disappeared  for  a  moment  into  the  next 
room.  When  he  returned,  he  drew  a  chair,  expressed  his 
pleasure  at  our  visit,  inquiring  about  our  ride,  &c.  Then  his 
better  half,  who  is  young,  and  very  agreeable  in  conversation, 
came  in,  followed  by  a  little  curly  headed  girl  about  five  years 
old,  whom,  Dona  Josepha  told  us,  had  been  left  at  the  door 
when  an  infant,  and  having  no  children,  Don  Antonio  and 
herself  considered  her  as  their  own.  In  five  minutes,  in  spite 
of  our  first  impression,  we  were  perfectly  at  home,  and  con- 
versed with  our  new  acquaintances  as  if  we  had  known  them 
for  years. 


NOTICES  OF  PEKU.  407 

The  table  was  supplied  with  cool  water,  glasses,  and  some 
excellent  Italia,  which  was  so  cordially  recommended,  that  a 
president  of  a  temperance  society  could  not  have  refused  it. 
In  a  few  minutes  breakfast  was  brought,  consisting  of  a  variety 
of  substantial  dishes  in  the  Spanish  style.  After  the  lady  re- 
tired, we  sat  an  hour  chatting  over  our  cigars,  with  an  old 
Franciscan  who  came  in,  and  then  Don  Isidro  proposed  a  stroll 
through  the  town. 

The  streets  were  dusty  and  hot,  and  we  gladly  took  shelter 
in  the  "tina,"  or  soap  factory,  belonging  to  our  friend  Don 
Isidro.  He  makes  large  quantities  of  soap,  and  tans  a  great 
number  of  goat  skins.  Tanning  and  soap  making  are  combined 
here,  because  the  soap  is  made  from  goats'  tallow,  to  obtain, 
which  the  whole  animal  must  be  purchased.  Having  no  coopers 
in  the  place,  the  soap  tubs  or  boilers,  with  a  copper  bottom,  are 
built  up  in  an  octagonal  form,  of  pieces  of  wood,  the  ends  of 
which  are  dovetailed  together,  and  the  seams  and  joints  caulked 
like  those  of  a  ship.  The  barilla,  here  called  "lito,"  is  ob- 
tained at  Sechura,  a  few  leagues  to  the  northward.  The  soap 
is  cut  into  square  cakes  of  five,  six,  or  nine  to  the  pound,  and 
packed  in  bales  called  "  petacas"  for  exportation. 

The  goat  skins  are  tanned  and  dyed  by  the  aid  of  a  plant 
called  Paipai.  A  hundred  thousand  skins  of  Cordovan  are  an- 
nually exported  from  the  province.  The  goats  are  fattened  on 
the  algarrobo  bean,  and  yield  from  seventeen  to  twenty-four 
pounds  of  tallow  each. 

The  whole  neighborhood  of  Lambayeque  and  Chiclayo,  is 
taken  up  with  soap  factories,  tanneries,  and  sugar  mills,  in  most 
cases  all  combined  into  one  establishment.  They  are  only  re- 
markable for  the  rudeness  of  their  structure. 

Leaving  the  soap  works,  we  visited  several  families,  but 
found  only  the  gentlemen  at  home,  all  the  ladies  having  gone 
to  church. 

The  news  of  a  late  revolution  had  just  reached  Chiclayo,  and 
was  the  absorbing  theme  of  conversation.  An  old  gentleman 
in  company  remarked,  "  that  a  general  commotion  throughout 
Peru,  would  be  a  great  blessing  to  the  country,  because  it 
would  serve  to  unite  the  liberals,  and  put  down  the  tyrant  Ga- 


40S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

marra  and  his  army,  whose  only  use,  since  the  state  was  at 
peace,  was  to  support  the  executive — that  these  local  disturb- 
ances were  scarcely  felt  beyond  the  capital,  and  in  fact  they 
were  not  aware  of  the  existence  of  the  government,  except 
when  it  levied  contributions  to  support  the  soldiery  kept  about 
the  president's  palace — that  trifling  revolutions  only  irritated 
and  increased  the  complaints  of  the  people,  i  quienes,  son  todos 
mui  patriotas  para  hablar  hasta  que  se  toca  la  bolsilla — entonces 
se  callan' — who  are  all  great  patriots  in  talk,  till  the  purse  is 
touched — then  they  are  silent." 

We  next  visited  the  church,  which  was  crowded  with  wo- 
men,  sitting  upon  their  heels  in  the  nave,  waiting  for  the  com- 
mencement of  mass.  The  bells  were  chiming  right  merrily  ; 
and  presently  we  heard  approaching  music.  In  a  few  minutes, 
a  priest,  followed  by  a  half  dozen  Chiclayo  patricians,  under 
cocked  hats,  and  adorned  with  bows  of  red  ribbons  tied  in  the 
button  holes,  entered.  Immediately  after  them  walked  a  dozen 
Indians,  bearing  long  palm  leaves  in  their  hands,  to  be  blessed 
by  the  priest,  previously  to  being  affixed  to  the  windows  of 
their  huts,  to  keep  off  witches  and  disease.  When  the  padre 
reached  the  great  altar,  which  was  hidden  by  a  large  green 
curtain  with  a  yellow  cross  upon  it,  the  women  raised  up  on 
their  knees,  and  having  scrupulously  adjusted  the  dress  so  as 
to  conceal  their  feet,  assumed  a  devout  look,  and  crossed  them- 
selves a  half  dozen  times.  The  voice  of  the  organ  rolled  among 
the  arches,  smoke  rose  from  the  censers,  and  circulated  around 
the  priest  and  the  palms;  and  two  or  three  Indians,  who  had 
fallen  asleep  behind  the  bench  upon  which  we  were  seated, 
started  up,  and  were  quickly  kneeling  and  crossing.  Our  pa- 
tience was  exhausted ;  so  we  returned  to  Don  Antonio's,  and 
saw  from  his  door  a  procession  issue  from  a  chapel  called  La 
Recolcta,  and  enter  the  church.  We  were  too  far  off  for  a  satis- 
factory view,  and  the  heat  was  too  great  to  attempt  to  get  near- 
er. All  we  could  distinguish  was  that  they  carried  palms  (being 
Palm  Sunday)  and  lighted  candles,  though  the  sun  was  glow- 
ing in  meridian  effulgence. 

We  chatted  and  smoked  cigars  in  the  house  for  an  hour  or 
two.    During  the  conversation,  curiosity  prompted  me  to  ask  a 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  409 

lady's  age,  principally  because  she  said  she  had  married  young. 
"  No  se  de  veras — hay  madres  curiosas  que  apuntan  cuando 
nacen  sus  hijos,  pero  la  mia  no  era  una  de  esas!" — Indeed  I 
do  not  know — there  are  mothers  curious  enough  to  note  down 
when  their  children  are  born,  but  mine  was  not  one  of  those  ! 
This  was  said  with  so  much  ingenuousness,  that  I  could  not 
suppose  it  was  for  evasion  ;  in  fact,  the  ladies  in  Peru,  when 
married,  do  not  keep  their  ages  a  secret. 

About  three  o'clock,  the  table  was  set  out  with  fruits  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  and  we  were  invited  "  to  refresh  ourselves."  After 
partaking  of  the  fruits,  several  dishes  of  meat,  dressed  in  vari- 
ous ways,  succeeded  each  other  to  the  number  of  ten  or  twelve, 
and  then  followed  a  desert  of  puddings,  custards,  and  cakes. 
Italia  was  frequently  recommended  during  the  feast,  to  pro- 
mote digestion  and  prevent  cholera. 

About  five  o'clock,  much  gratified  with  their  hospitality,  we 
took  leave  of  Don  Antonio  and  his  lady,  and  rode  briskly  back 
to  Lambayeque. 

Being  what  is  termed  passion  week,  there  was  a  procession 
every  night  in  the  streets,  illustrative  of  some  part  of  the  pas- 
sion of  Christ: — on  Sunday  night,  a  huge  table,  dressed  with 
vines,  flowers,  and  fruits,  resembling  a  garden,  and  illuminated 
with  lanterns  and  candles,  in  which  were  several  figures,  and 
among  them  our  Saviour  in  a  velvet  robe,  richly  embroidered 
in  gold.  The  table,  called  the  "  paso,"  or  "anda,"  is  borne 
along  by  as  many  men  as  can  crowd  their  shoulders  under  it; 
yet  it  is  so  heavy  that  they  reel  along,  and  are  obliged  to  halt 
frequently  to  take  breath.  The  anda  was  preceded  by  a  num- 
ber of  men  and  women  bearing  candles,  two  or  three  Indians 
with  silver  rods,  and  one  carrying  the  banner  of  the  church. 
Immediately  in  front  of  the  anda,  were  two  Indian  girls  be- 
decked with  jewels,  which  are  generally  loaned  them  by  their 
mistresses  for  the  occasion,  carrying  silver  brazeros  of  coals, 
upon  which  others,  ever  and  anon,  sprinkled  frankincense. 
A  priest,  in  full  canonicals,  followed,  and  the  accompanying 
band  was  playing  lugubrious  airs.  One  evening,  the  scourging 
of  the  Saviour  in  the  presence  of  Pontius  Pilate,  was  the  scene 
represented ;  the  guards  were  dressed  for  all  the  world  like 
52 


410  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

old  continental  soldiers,  with  black  beards  and  bristly  musta- 
ches, which  strongly  reminded  us  of  our  boyish  days,  when 
we  were  delighted  with  the  figures  in  "  Jesse  Sharpless's  wax- 
works," at  Philadelphia.  These  processions,  which  are  paid  for 
by  voluntary  contributions  from  the  Indians,  serve  to  enliven 
the  place,  but  at  the  same  time  bring  religion  into  disrespect 
with  the  better  informed. 

"  How  would  you  tolerate  such  puppets  in  your  country,  be- 
fore which  every  body  must  stand  uncovered  ?"  asked  a  friend. 
"These  are  all  inventions  of  the  priests  to  filch  money  from 
the  ignorant,  who  give  their  pittance  to  secure  for  themselves 
a  short  detention  in  purgatory,  and  a  free  passage  through  the 
gate  guarded  by  St.  Peter!" 

"  Before  you  condemn  the  clergy  of  these  countries,  look  to 
the  United  States,  and  tell  me  whether  there  are  no  abuses  to 
be  corrected  in  them?  How  many  hypocritical  enthusiasts, 
who  have  thrown  aside  the  thimble  and  goose,  or  the  lap-stone 
and  awl,  'to  obey  a  call,'  are  now  robbing  women  of  their 
pin  money,  and  children  of  their  cakes,  under  the  pious  pre- 
text of  saving  souls,  in  order  to  live  in  idleness  themselves !" 
It  is  these  apostates  of  St.  Crispin  who  bring  religion  into  dis- 
respect, and  make  us  laughed  at  by  the  thinking  of  all  parts  of 
the  world ! 

We  frequently  visited  the  chicharia  over  the  bridge ;  the 
house,  partly  from  antiquity,  and  partially  from  the  frail  nature 
of  the  materials  of  which  it  is  constructed,  has  a  decided  incli- 
nation towards  the  street,  which  the  owners  have  opposed  with 
stout  logs  of  algarrobo  placed  against  the  eaves.  The  interior 
presents  a  small  apartment, or  rather  covered  entrance, furnished 
with  two  or  three  high  leather  backed  chairs,  and  as  many 
wooden  benches.  At  our  last  visit,  Fray  Tomas  sat  swinging 
his  legs,  which  did  not  reach  the  ground,  and  sipping  chicha 
from  a  mate  of  wholesome  capacity.  A  little  dried  up  custom 
house  officer,  in  a  yellow  striped  jacket,  occupied  one  of  the 
chairs  opposite  to  him,  smoking  a  paper  cigar.  Both  these  gen- 
tlemen were  listening  to  a  gay  story  told  by  a  tall,  fine  looking 
man,  who  had  been  in  the  army,  but  is  now  administrador  of 
the  custom  house.  Further,therc  was  a  little  group  of  gentlemen, 


NOTICES  OF  PERTT.  411 

smoking,  laughing  and  chatting;  and  two  pre-eminently  ugly 
Indian  women  were  squatted  by  a  bed  of  coals,  broiling  fish. 
They  were  shaded  by  a  few  canes  laid  side  by  side,  their  ends 
resting  on  a  ricketty  fence  of  reeds,  that  separated  them  from 
the  high  road.  One  of  these  Indians  had  a  child  about  two 
years  old  slung  upon  her  back ;  and  the  squalid  little  thing  kept 
striking  its  mother  to  gain  attention,  but  in  vain  ;  she  continued 
putting  fish  on  the  coals,  and  coals  on  the  fish,  without  noticing 
any  thing  else.  An  Indian  girl,  as  ugly  as  either  of  the  others, 
who  acted  as  an  attendant,  wore,  instead  of  the  capus,  a  piece 
of  cloth  rolled  about  her  person,  extending  from  the  armpit 
below  the  knee,  secured  over  the  breast  by  strings  tied  over 
the  shoulders  and  around  the  waist.  Close  to  them  were  seve- 
ral large  earthen  jars,  for  boiling  and  fermenting  chicha,  and 
at  the  remotest  end  of  the  yard  were  two  pig-stys,  inhabited 
by  noisy  black  swine.  Besides  these,  a  half  dozen  pigs  were 
tied  by  the  middle  like  monkeys,  and  tethered  to  pegs  driven 
in  the  ground.  The  whole  tribe  were  squeaking  anxiously  to 
join  the  preparing  feast,  while  a  dozen  ducks  stood  in  a  pond 
hard  by,  prattling  and  shaking  their  tails,  and  an  amicable  com- 
pany of  turkeys  and  hens  were  retiring  to  roost.  At  least  five 
mangy  curs  were  sneaking  about  with  tails  hanging  down,  and 
watching  every  opportunity  to  plunge  their  noses  into  the 
earthen  pots  that  were  stewing  on  the  fire.  The  Indians  pur- 
sued their  operations  in  silence,  except  some  one  of  the  guests 
cried  "  chicha,"  and  then  the  young  Hebe  replied  "  ya  voy." 
Presently  the  roasted  fish  were  put  into  a  gourd  dish,  and 
an  earthen  pot  of  "  mote"  (corn  shelled  from  the  cob  and  boil- 
ed) was  turned  into  another,  and  placed  on  a  table.  The  gen- 
tlemen immediately  threw  away  their  cigars,  drew  up  the 
benches  and  chairs,  and  fell  to  eating  with  their  fingers.  Those 
who  could  not  find  room  at  the  table,  got  a  fish  on  a  gourd 
plate  with  a  handful  of  mote,  and  eat  as  they  walked  up  and 
down,  inviting  us  to  join  them.  Though  we  had  just  dined, 
and  the  food  was  so  rudely  served,  we  found  the  fish  and  mote 
very  good.  Fray  Tomas  and  his  friend  the  custom  house  officer 
formed  a  separate  mess,  seated  on  a  mat,  with  a  great  gourd 
dish  of  beef  and  riee  stewed  with  aji,  garnished  by  a  mate  of 


412  TIIREE   YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

chicha,  and  another  of  mote.  The  padre  plied  his  gourd  spoon 
so  rapidly,  that  every  thing  like  articulation  was  precluded,  hut, 
true  Spaniard  like,  never  forgetting  politeness,  he  conveyed 
an  invitation  to  us,  by  pointing  into  the  dish,  and  nodding  his 
head,  with  a  look  which  made  the  whole  gesture  quite  intelli- 
gible. The  custom  house  officer  was  not  far  behind  his  com- 
panion.  One  of  the  curs  was  disposed  to  join  them,  in  spite  of 
the  rebuffs  given  him  by  the  priest,  under  whose  arm  he  now 
and  then  found  an  opportunity  to  run  his  nose  into  the  dish, 
and  scamper  off*  with  a  piece  of  hot  meat.  We  joined  in  eat- 
ing mote  and  drinking  chicha,  and  I  ventured  to  compliment 
the  Indian  on  her  cookery  ;  her  only  reply  was  "Ay!  Senor," 
spoken  in  the  usual  half  singing  kind  of  tone,  as  she  continued 
poking  the  fire. 

We  followed  the  whole  party,  after  they  had  ended  the 
feast,  to  the  billiard  room,  where  some  were  playing  billiards, 
while  others,  seated  in  the  corners,  were  gambling  with  dice 
or  cards.  The  young  men  pass  their  evenings  in  this  way,  and 
when  they  lose,  always  attribute  it  to  some  unusual  run  of 
luck.  Last  night  a  custom  house  officer  lost  all  his  money  with 
the  curate  and  some  others,  who  left  him  seated  on  a  bench, 
holding  fast  to  his  chin,  staring  vacantly  on  the  billiard  table, 
and  looking  like  a  man  in  despair.  To  night,  however,  he  was 
in  luck  ;  the  curate  grew  desperate,  and  increased  his  bets  till 
he  placed  all  he  had  in  his  pocket  on  the  table.  The  devil  was 
in  the  dice,  for  they  rolled  against  the  clergyman  and  in  favor 
of  the  custom  house  officer,  who,  amidst  the  dead  silence  of 
the  astonished  losers,  swept  the  table,  apparently  delighted  in 
prolonging  the  chinking  of  the  silver  and  gold,  as  they  drop- 
ped from  sight,  piece  by  piece,  into  his  straw  hat,  and  in  his 
turn  walked  off",  leaving  the  curate  to  console  himself  with  a 
paper  cigar.  Whether  long  habit  had  inured  him  to  losses, 
whether  his  profession  had  taught  him  resignation,  or  whether 
he  derived  consolation  from  the  little  paper  cigar  that  smoked 
so  cheerfully  around  his  nose,  I  could  not  determine,  but  the 
fact  is,  he  did  not  appear  to  be  much  distressed.  The  custom 
house  officer,  flushed  with  success,  ventured  his  winnings  at 
another  game,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  room.   Directly  there 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  413 

was  a  loud  laugh,  and  1  saw  him  sit  down  by  the  curate,  and, 
lighting  his  cigar,  torture  his  features  to  look  cheerful,  but  the 
whole  effort  only  resulted  in  a  grin. 

We  left  Lambayeque  about  twelve  o'clock,  and  embarked 
on  a  large  balsa,  called  El  Sacramento,  which  was  laden  with 
supplies  for  our  ship.  The  crew  consisted  of  ten  brawny  In- 
dians, who,  like  all  of  their  tribe,  wore  the  hair  braided  behind, 
and  cut  short  from  the  crown  to  the  forehead,  except  a  long 
tuft  in  the  centre.  Their  dress  was  complete  in  a  pair  of  cloth 
trowsers. 

All  being  ready,  the  square  sail  was  hoisted,  and  one  end  of 
the  balsa  pushed  off  towards  the  breakers,  while  the  other  was 
retained  on  the  beach  by  a  rope  held  by  a  party  of  Indians  on 
shore.  Presently  the  sail  filled,  a  heavy  wave  broke  roaring 
on  the  beach,  sending  a  sheet  of  foamy  water  towards  the  shore, 
and  our  balsa  was  afloat.  The  balseros  who  had  been  bearing: 
off  the  bow  of  the  vessel,  or  rather  raft,  gave  a  shout,  jumped 
on  board,  and  the  rope  was  let  go.  The  sail  was  now  sufficient 
to  urge  us  steadily  through  the  surf  into  the  open  sea,  aided 
by  broad  paddles,  called  rudders,  which  the  Indians  worked 
cheerily.  As  we  got  into  deep  water,  several  short  planks 
were  forced  down  between  the  logs,  giving  steadiness,  and, 
like  the  keel  of  a  ship,  keeping  the  balsa  near  the  wind. 

After  we  were  fairly  under  way,  the  Indians  put  on  their 
ponchos,  and  sat  themselves  down,  with  gourds  of  mot6  and 
little  shell-fish,  before  mentioned,  called  Donax.  At  four 
o'clock  P.  M.  we  reached  the  ship,  and,  having  been  thirteen 
days  in  port,  got  our  anchor  and  put  to  sea. 


414  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Paita — Bay — Town — Piura — Whalers — A  fish  story. 

At  six  o'clock  P.  M.,  on  the  10th  of  January  1S33,  we  an- 
chored in  the  bay  of  Paita,  which  is  situated  in  5°  2'  south 
latitude.  Its  configuration  resembles  that  of  Valparaiso,  but  is 
of  greater  extent.  For  several  leagues  to  the  north  and  south, 
the  land  is  a  flat  waste,  composed  of  rocks  and  clay,  filled  with 
marine  shells.  It  bears  the  appearance  of  having  been  sub- 
merged at  some  remote  period  ;  not  a  green  spot  or  even  a 
blade  of  grass  meets  the  eye  in  any  direction.  A  hard  sand 
beach  stretches  round  the  harbor,  which  is  completely  sheltered 
from  all  prevailing  winds.  The  atmosphere  is  remarkably 
clear  at  all  seasons,  and  the  moon  is  said  to  be  more  beautifully 
pale  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  The  climate  is  dry 
and  equal  in  temperature.  A  sea  breeze  usually  sets  in  about 
ten  or  eleven  o'clock  A.  M.,  and  blows  till  sun  down ;  in  the 
summer  season,  before  that  hour,  it  is  somewhat  sultry. 

A  very  short  time  enables  you  to  survey  the  whole  town. 
It  is  built  under  a  precipice  of  clay  and  stone,  upon  a  lap  of 
land  of  irregular  superficies.  It  consists  of  two  or  three  parallel 
streets,  connected  by  narrow  alleys  or  lanes.  The  houses  are 
constructed  of  split  canes,  brought  from  Guayaquil,  where  they 
grow  to  a  large  size ;  they  are  lashed  to  the  wooden  frame 
with  cords,  and  are  plastered  with  mud  ;  they  present,  in  the 
early  stage  of  construction,  the  appearance  of  large  cages.  1 
inferred  from  the  great  peakedness  of  the  roofs,  that  heavy 
rains  were  frequent,  but  learned  on  inquiry,  tbat  it  is  only 
once  in  two  or  three  years  that  there  is  a  shower  from  a  stray 
cloud.  The  dews,  however,  compensate  for  the  absence  of 
rain,  though  they  are  thrown  away  upon  the  ungrateful  soil  in 
the  immediate  vicinity.  The  number  of  inhabitants,  according 
to  the  captain  of  the  port,  amounts  to  three  thousand,  "mal 
contado" — badly  counted,  and  consist  chiefly  of  Indians  and 


NOTICES  OF  PEItU.  415 

their  progeny.  The  main  street  now  presents  a  busy  appear- 
ance ;  houses  are  being;  built,  and  others  are  falling  under  the 
march  of  improvement.  Whalemen  are  swaggering  before  the 
doors  of  the  pulperias,  and  talking  of  their  exploits  with  "the 
fish."  Children  are  sprawling  about  in  the  sand  at  play,  and 
their  parents  seem  to  be  sleeping  in  the  thresholds.  At  the 
"Union  Sociable,"  according  to  the  advertisement  on  the 
door,  may  be  had  "  Uillar  y  Cafe" — Billiards  and  Coffee  ;  this 
is  the  fashionable  resort,  and  the  balls  are  never  at  rest.  The 
female  part  of  the  community  spend  a  large  portion  of  time 
swinging  in  straw  hammocks.  At  night,  in  the  summer,  the 
whole  population  seem  to  live  in  the  street:  after  wearying 
themselves  with  dancing  to  the  tinkling  of  guitars  by  moon- 
light, in  spite  of  the  dews,  they  stretch  themselves  out  on  the 
ground  before  the  doors  to  sleep.  In  all  parts  of  South  Ame- 
rica, the  people  live  to  enjoy  themselves,  and  the  common 
people  indulge  more  generally  in  innocent  amusements  than 
those  of  similar  classes  in  the  United  States;  national  music, 
perhaps,  has  a  tendency  to  amuse  the  populace,  and  prevent  it 
from  resorting  to  sensual  dissipation  ! 

Paita,  which  was  discovered  by  Pizarro,  is  the  sea  port  of 
Piura,  also  founded  by  the  conqueror  in  1532,  and  called  San 
Miguel.*  Piura  is  fourteen  leagues  in  the  interior,  built  on  a 
river  of  the  same  name.  It  is  celebrated  for  the  salubrity  of  its 
climate,  and  visited  by  numbers  of  valetudinarians,  to  drink  of 
the  waters  of  the  river,  which  are  said  to  be  strongly  impreg- 
nated with  sarsaparilla,  that  grows  abundantly  on  its  banks. 
The  town  contains  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  a  market 
for  European  and  American  goods,  which  are  there  sold  and 
sent  to  the  different  villages  in  the  neighborhood. 

The  exports  from  Paita  are  cinchona  bark,  rhatany,  silver, 
and  wool. 

Paita  has  figured  in  the  history  of  the  buccaneers  from  the 
earliest  periods,  and  has  suffered  as  much  from  their  invasions 
as  any  other  port  in  the  Pacific.  It  was  sacked  on  the  24th  of 
November  1741,   by   Lord  Anson,  who  is  now  familiarly 

*  Herrera. 


416  THREE  TEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

spoken  of  by  the  old  inhabitants  as  "Jorge  Anson."  He 
landed  so  few  of  his  people,  that  the  Paitanians  carried  off 
quantities  of  their  treasure,  and  buried  it  in  the  sand,  yet  the 
admiral  found  wealth  enough  left  to  surprise  him.  Don  Nico- 
las de  Salazar,  who  was  at  that  time  Contador  of  Piura,  aided 
by  a  negro,  fired  two  small  guns  from  a  fort  that  had  been 
abandoned,  but  ammunition  was  so  scarce  that  he  loaded  them 
with  hard  dollars  !* 

This  port  is  a  rendezvous  throughout  the  year  for  American 
whalers,  who  resort  to  it  to  refresh  their  creVs,  to  cooper  their 
oil,  and  to  fill  up  their  supplies  of  vegetables  and  provisions. 
For  this  purpose,  they  are  allowed  to  sell  goods  to  an  amount 
not  exceeding  two  hundred  dollars,  duty  free,  but  they  gene- 
rally exceed  the  law,  and  dispose  of  certain  "  ventures"  at  the 
risk  of  seizure  and  confiscation.  I  asked  a  captain  of  a  whaler 
in  port,  whether  he  was  not  afraid  of  being  detected  in  these 
transactions.  He  replied,  "Why  you  see  I  never  know  how 
things  gets  ashore — they  will  have  'em,  and  I  am  mostly  asleep 
when  they  takes  'em  away  !  But  there  is  no  trade  now. 
When  I  first  came  to  the  south  sea,  in  1S05,  we  used  to  get 
just  as  much  as  we  chose  to  ask  for  any  thing.  Our  captain 
had  a  barrel  of  gin  fixed  in  the  bulk  head,  so  one  half  of  it  was 
in  the  cabin,  and  the  other  in  the  mate's  room.  When  the 
people  knew  we  had  this  liquor,  they  flocked  aboard  with  bot- 
tles and  gourds;  and  while  the  captain  drew  off  gin  in  the  ca- 
bin, the  mate  was  in  his  room  pouring  in  water,  so  that  I  guess 
the  barrel  was  sold  three  times  full  for  about  six  dollars  a 
gallon  !" 

Whalers  form  a  distinct  class.  When  several  vessels  are 
assembled  at  any  of  the  places  of  rendezvous,  the  oldest  cap- 
tain in  company  is  styled  the  admiral.  They  have  suppers  on 
board  one  of  the  ships  every  night,  to  which  all  present  are 
invited  by  hoisting  a  flag  before  sunset.  I  attended  on  one  of 
these  occasions,  and  was  much  amused  with  the  peculiar  slang 
of  these  people.  "Come,"  said  the  captain,  "  take  a  cigar, 
you'll  find  'em  pretty  much  half  Spanish,  I  guess." 

•  Noticias  Secrctas.    p.  180. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  417 

I  inquired  of  one  who  had  heen  relating  .some  exploits  with 
whales,  whether  he  never  felt  that  he  was  in  danger.  "  Why, 
I  always  think,  if  I  have  a  good  lance,  the  fish  is  in  most  dan- 
ger !" 

I  asked  another  whether  he  had  ever  met  with  an  accident. 

"  I  can't  say  exactly  as  how  I  have,  though  I  came  plaguy 
near  it  once.  You  see  we  was  off  the  coast  of  Japan,  right 
among  a  shoal  of  whales,  and  all  hands  was  out  in  the  boats 
except  me  and  the  cook.  I  was  lookin  at  the  creaturs  with  the 
glass,  and  saw  one  on  'em  flirt  her  tail  agin  a  boat,  and  it  was 
a  caution  to  see  the  scatterment  she  made  of  her.  All  the  boys 
were  set  a  swimmin,  ,so  the  cook  and  me  jumped  into  a  boat 
and  picked  'em  all  up.  Directly  the  fish  blowed  close  to  us, 
and  I  took  an  iron  and  sunk  it  into  her,  and  I  know  how  to 
strike  a  whale  as  well  as  any  man,  but  the  creatur  canted  the 
wrong  way,  and  I  know  how  a  sparm  ought  to  cant,  and  comin 
at  us  full  tilt,  with  her  jaws  as  wide  open  as  a  barn  door,  bit  the 
boat  smack  in  two  in  the  middle.  Then  she  chawed  up  one  end 
on  her,  and  by  the  time  we  got  hold  on  the  other,  she  come  at 
us  agin,  and  making  another  bite,  took  me  by  the  back  betwixt 
her  teeth,  and  shook  me  as  a  puppy  would  a  ball  of  yarn,  and 
I  guess  she  would'nt  have  dropped  me,  if  the  mate  had'nt  come 
up  in  another  boat,  and  shoved  in  his  lance  till  she  was  sicken- 
ed !  As  good  luck  would  have  it,  we  was  all  picked  up  with- 
out any  accident,  but  I  got  five  of  her  tooth  prints  in  my  back 
to  this  day !" 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Geography  of  Peru — Repartimientos — Mita  System — General  La  Mar — Ge- 
neral Gamarra. 

The  once  extensive  Empire  of  Peru,  whose  foundation  by 
the  Incas  is  shrouded  in  the  darkness  of  fable,  and  an  uncer- 
tain tradition,  was  bounded,  at  the  period  of  the  conquest,  on 
53 


41S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

the  north  by  the  Blue  river,  or  in  the  language  of  the  country, 
the  Ancalmayu,  which  is  near  the  equator,  and  between  Pasto 
and  Quito  ;  on  the  south  by  the  river  Maule,  which  crosses 
the  kingdom  of  Chile  to  the  north  of  the  country  of  the  Arau- 
canians  ;  on  the  east  by  the  snow-capped  Ritisuyu,  or  band  of 
snow,  that  stretches  from  Santa  Martha  to  the  Straits  of  Ma- 
gellan, and  on  the  west  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  In  the  course  of 
time  its  extent  was  diminished.  In  1718,  the  provinces  form- 
ing the  kingdom  of  Quito  were  separated  from  it,  and  in  1778, 
the  viceroyship  of  Buenos  Ayres  was  taken  away. 

In  1791,  Peru  extended  from  two  degrees  to  twenty-three 
of  south  latitude  ;  it  was  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  kingdom 
of  New  Granada,  and  on  the  south  by  the  desert  of  Atacama. 
On  the  east,  a  gloomy  desert  of  five  hundred  leagues  in  extent 
separated  it  from  Brazil,  Paraguay,  and  Buenos  Ayres.  On  the 
west  the  Pacific  still  lashed  its  shores. 

At  present,  the  Republic  of  Peru  is  separated  from  the  ter- 
ritory of  Equador,  on  the  north,  by  the  river  Tumbez  }  on 
the  south  it  is  bounded  by  Bolivia,  the  limits  of  which  are 
not  yet  settled  ;  on  the  east  by  Brazil,  and  on  the  west  by  the 
Pacific. 

The  territory  is  divided  into  seven  departments,  and  each 
department  into  provinces. 

Departments.  Provinces. 

.  _      C  Arica,   Callyoma,    Camand,    Cercado,    Conde- 

^    "      *     £      suyos,  Moquegua,  Tarapaci. 


Andahuaylas,   Cangallo,   Castrovireyna,    Hua- 
Ayacucho  9.  1      manga,  Huancavelica,  Huanta,  Lucanas,  Pa- 
rinacochas,  Tayacaja. 


(  Abancay,  Aymaraes,  Calca,  Cercado,  Cotabam- 
Cuzco  11.        <      bas,    Chumbivilcas,    Paruro,    Paucartamboy 
£      Quispicanchi,  Tinta,  Urubamba. 

r     .  cCajatambo,    Conchucos,    Huaylas,    Huamalies, 

£      Huanuco,  Hauri,  Jauja,  Pasco. 

C  Cajamarca,  Chachapoyas,  Chota,  Iluamachuco, 
Libertad  10.  <      Jaen,  Lambayeque,  Maynas,  Pataz,  Piura, 
£      Trujillo. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  419 

Departments.  Provinces. 

T  .        _  CCanta,  Canete,  Cercado,  Chancay,  Huarochiri, 

Lima  b.  -s      r       o  v 

I      lea,  banta,   i  auyos. 

p         _  C  Azangaro,     Carabaya,    Chucuito,     Huancane, 

I      Lampa. 


Population  in  1795. 

Departments. 

Arequipa, 

- 

- 

136,812 

Aj^acucho, 

- 

159,608 

Cuzco, 

- 

- 

216,382 

Junin, 

- 

- 

200,839 

Libertad, 

- 

- 

230,970 

Lima, 

- 

- 

149,112 

Puno, 

Total, 

156,000 

1,249,723 

This  population  is  composed  of  three  original  castes — Span- 
iards, Indians,  and  Negroes.  The  secondary  species,  arising 
from  these  three,  are  the  Mulatto,  from  the  Spaniard  and  Ne- 
gro ;  Quarteroon,  from  Mulatto  and  Spaniard,  and  the  Mestizo, 
from  Spaniard  and  Indian.  The  other  subdivisions  are  as  nu- 
merous as  the  possible  combination  of  the  primitive  castes. 

The  coast  is  occupied  by  a  chain  of  arid,  craggy  hills,  and 
sandy  deserts.  Several  lakes,  many  of  them  very  extensive, 
expand  their  bosoms  to  the  sky,  some  of  which  are  on  the  very 
summits  of  the  Cordillera.  Such  is  generally  the  face  of  the 
country,  yet  its  watered  valleys  and  quebr&das  contain  popu- 
lous towns  and  villages,  and  enjoy  a  benign  climate,  while  the 
elevated  situations  in  the  Sierra  are  extremely  cold,  the  ther- 
mometer ranging,  on  the  Pampas  de  Bonbon,*  which  are  forty 
leagues  to  the  eastward  of  Lima,  constantly,  from  34°  to  40° 
of  Fahrenheit. 

Almost  coeval  with  the  conquest  of  Peru  by  the  Spaniards, 
the  country  was  divided  into  districts  or  corrigimientos,  over 

•  Celebrated  for  the  mines  of  Pasco. 


420  THKKE  7JBAB8  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

which  a  corrcgidor  or  praetor  was  appointed  to  rule,  with  pow- 
er to  judge  and  punish  civil  and  criminal  offences  in  the  name 
of  the  king.  A  tribute  of  one-third  was  exacted  by  law  from 
every  Indian  over  eighteen  years  of  age,  which  was  collected 
till  he  completed  fifty-five,  when  he  became  exempt.  The  cor- 
rcgidor or  praetor  was  charged  with  its  collection,  and  for  this 
purpose  visited  all  the  villages  and  estates  twice  annually.  The 
praetors  made  arbitrary  distributions  of  goods  amongst  the  In- 
dians, at  most  exorbitant  prices,  and  which  the  individual 
dared  not  refuse,  however  useless  the  articles  allotted  to  him 
might  be.  These  repartimientos,  or  distributions,  were  made 
throughout  Peru,  excepting  in  the  Audiencia  of  Quito,  Para- 
guay, and  the  modern  missions  in  the  Sierra.  The  tribute  was 
intended  by  the  Spanish  court  for  the  benefit  of  the  Indians, 
in  paying  the  curates,  teachers,  and  alcaldes,  but,  from  the  cu- 
pidity of  the  corregid6res,  became  a  system  of  most  cruel  and 
unheard-of  oppression.  No  crime  was  alleged  against  the  un- 
happy aborigines;  there  was  no  fault  save  their  docility  and 
ignorance. 

Two  modes  of  collecting  the  tribute  were  adopted.  In  the 
first,  a  register  of  the  number  of  Indians  in  the  pra?torship,  lia- 
ble to  pay  tribute,  was  made  out  from  the  baptismal  and  burial 
records,  and  an  account  rendered  to  the  Royal  Audiencia  at 
Lima.  This  plan  gave  room  to  great  fraud  on  the  public  trea- 
sury, for  the  corregidores  sometimes  detained  the  tribute  col- 
lected, in  their  own  hands,  for  years,  under  various  pretexts, 
and  employed  it  in  trade.  A  second  plan,  resorted  to  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Quito,  and  approved  by  the  Viceroy  of  Peru,  Marques 
de  Villa  de  Garcia,  was  to  sell  the  tribute  to  the  highest  bidder 
at  auction,  and  in  this  case  the  corregid&r  always  had  the  pre- 
ference. Notwithstanding  the  law,  tribute  was  exacted  from 
Indians  two  or  three  years  before  they  completed  the  eight- 
eenth year,  and  long  after  they  had  attained  fifty-five — even 
decrepid  old  men,  of  more  than  seventy  years  of  age,  and  who 
begged  for  their  subsistence,  were  forced  to  pay  the  tribute. 
The  law  exempted  all  the  Caciques  and  their  heirs;  alcaldes; 
all  who  served  in  the  church,  and  all  those  who  were  corpo- 
really or  mentally  deficient;  yet  they  did  not  escape  the  grasp- 


NOTICES  OP  PERU.  421 

Ing  avarice  of  the  corregidores,  who  were  poor  men  that  came 
to  India  to  make  their  fortunes,  coate  qui  coute;  they  general- 
ly retired  at  the  end  of  five  years,  the  term  for  which  they 
were  appointed,  with  fortunes  of  from  one  hundred  thousand 
to  a  half  a  million  of  dollars,  according  to  the  district  allotted 
to  them. 

Compassion  prompted  brothers,  wives,  and  children,  to  task 
themselves  doubly,  to  assist  those  in  paying  the  tribute  who 
were  exempt  by  law,  that  they  might  not  see  their  near  re- 
latives cruelly  scourged  for  its  default,  by  the  fiendish  col- 
lectors appointed  by  the  corregidor !  Thus  were  they  dou- 
bly oppressed.  It  often  happened,  too,  that  the  tribute  was 
twice  exacted.  When  paid,  the  collector  gave  the  Indian  a  re- 
ceipt, which,  from  ignorance  and  want  of  a  place  of  safety  for 
keeping,  was  soon  lost,  and  when  called  on  by  another  collec- 
tor, he  was  again  forced  to  pay,  in  spite  of  every  protestation. 
The  Indians,  when  absent,  were  forced  to  pay  the  tribute  in 
the  district  in  which  they  happened  to  be  at  the  time  of  collec- 
tion, and  if  they  did  not  show  receipts  on  their  return,  they 
were  forced  to  pay  a  second  time.  If  destitute  of  means,  the 
collector  seized  any  valuable  he  could  lay  hands  upon  in  his 
miserable  hut,  and  if  not  enough  to  satisfy  his  demand,  the  In- 
dian was  set  at  some  day  labor,  at  low  wages,  until  the  debt 
was  discharged.  Misery  and  oppression  soon  ended  his  unhap- 
py days,  if  his  wife  and  daughters  were  not  able  to  free  him 
by  their  extra  tasks  ! 

The  corregidores  masked  their  cruel  iniquity  and  oppression 
under  a  pretended  zeal  for  the  service  of  the  king  and  royal 
treasury,  in  order  to  self-aggrandizement. 

In  the  province  of  Quito,  besides  the  exaction  of  tribute,  the 
corregidores  employed  the  Indians  like  slaves,  at  very  low 
wages,  either  in  weaving  cotton,  or  in  the  fields  of  their  own 
estates.  The  slightest  pretext  was  sufficient  to  seize  the  mule 
or  cow  of  an  Indian,  as  a  fine  for  his  offence  ;  in  fact,  no  means 
of  oppression  were  left  unpractised. 

With  a  view  of  encouraging  industry  amongst  a  people  na- 
turally idle,  as  is  the  case  with  all  savage  and  semi-civilized 
nations,  all  the  corregidores  south  of  Loxa,  were  directed  to 


422  THREE  YEARS  IN   THE   PACIFIC. 

carry  with  them  a  supply  of  such  articles  as  were  adapted  to 
the  wants  of  the  Indians,  and  distribute  them  amongst  them. 
Being  obliged  to  pay  for  these  at  moderate  prices,  it  was  thought 
would  be  an  incentive  to  industry,  and  the  means  of  improve- 
ment. Such  was  the  principle  of  the  repartimiento,  or  distri- 
bution, which,  in  practice,  became  the  most  horrible  system  of 
tyranny  and  oppression  that  history  has  recorded,  and  contri- 
buted in  no  small  degree  to  the  great  bloodshed  and  depopula- 
tion of  South  America. 

On  receiving  his  appointment,  the  corregidor  went  to  any 
merchant  in  Lima,  whom  he  might  find  willing  to  give  him 
credit,  and  purchased  an  assortment  of  articles  to  be  distributed 
in  his  corregimento.  He  generally  took  a  large  portion  of  un- 
saleable articles  off  the  merchant's  hands,  and  paid  an  exorbi- 
tant price  for  every  thing;  for,  being  poor,  he  was  unable  to 
make  cash  purchases. 

He  commenced  the  distribution  by  assigning  to  each  Indian 
a  certain  quantity  of  goods,  at  an  arbitrary  price,  and  then 
gave  a  list  of  them  to  the  cacique  of  the  village  or  town.  It 
was  in  vain  that  the  Indian  protested  against  the  price,  and  his 
total  inability  to  pay  for  articles  which  he  did  not  require,  and 
of  which  in  many  instances  he  did  not  even  know  the  use.  Of 
what  use  was  a  yard  of  velvet  or  satin  to  these  poor  savages, 
for  which  they  were  charged  forty  or  fifty  dollars! — or  silk 
stockings; — to  what  end  were  locks  to  men  living  in  straw  ca- 
bins, without  a  single  article  of  furniture,  save  perhaps  an  earth- 
en cooking  vessel  and  a  few  gourd  dishes. — What  a  cruel  jest 
it  was  to  practice  on  men,  who,  entirely  destitute  even  of  down 
on  any  part  of  their  bodies,  to  force  upon  them  razors,  looking- 
glasses,  and  scissors,  though  they  never  cut  their  hair;  yet  all 
those  things,  and  more,  the  Indian  was  compelled  to  receive  at 
almost  incredible  prices.  Two  years  and  a  half  were  given  to 
pay  for  the  first  distribution,  at  the  end  of  which  period  another 
was  made;  the  second  was  not  so  great,  and  consisted  of  arti- 
cles which  might  serve  them  for  some  useful  purpose.  Besides 
these  two  general  repartimientos,  or  distributions,  the  corregi- 
dor made  frequent  visits  to  the  towns,  and  gave  to  those  who 
were  prompt  in  payment,  such  articles  as  they  absolutely  re- 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  423 

quired,  at  very  exorbitant  prices.  In  each  village  of  his  juris- 
diction, he  established  a  shop,  where  all  were  forced  to  pur- 
chase, because  no  other  was  allowed.  These  were  termed 
voluntary  sales;  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind,  that  in  the  first 
distribution,  the  most  useless  articles  were  given  out,  and  those 
of  absolute  necessity  reserved  for  the  second,  and  irregular  dis- 
tributions. 

The  distribution  of  mules  will  serve  to  give  an  idea  of  the 
repartimiento.  A  corregidor  generally  purchased  from  five 
to  six  hundred  mules,  at  from  fourteen  to  eighteen  dollars  each, 
and  allotted  to  each  Indian  from  four  to  six,  according  as  he 
estimated  his  capacity  to  pay  for  them.  He  charged  them 
generally  from  forty  to  forty-four  dollars  each.  The  Indian 
was  prohibited  from  hiring  his  mules  without  permission  from 
the  corregidor,  under  the  pretext  of  preventing  illicit  trade. 
When  travellers  or  merchants  required  mules  for  transport- 
ing their  baggage  or  merchandise,  they  applied  to  the  corre- 
gidor, who  looked  over  his  list  of  those  who  had  received 
mules,  and  ordered  those  who  were  most  indebted  to  him  to 
undertake  the  journey.  He  received  the  amount  of  the  freight, 
and  reserved  one-half  on  account  of  the  debt;  one-fourth  was 
given  to  the  traveller  or  merchant,  to  defray  the  expense  of 
food  for  the  mules,  and  the  remaining  fourth  was  paid  to  the 
peones  or  Indians,  who  accompanied  the  caravan  to  load  and 
feed  the  animals,  so  that  nothing  was  left  to  the  Indian  to  whom 
the  mules  belonged!  One-half  of  that  fourth  given  to  the  pe- 
ones was  reserved,  on  account  of  the  repartimiento  or  distri- 
bution of  goods. 

The  Indian  set  out  on  his  route,  which  in  Peru  was  ge- 
nerally a  long  and  toilsome  one,  and  it  frequently  happened, 
that  from  fatigue  one  of  the  mules  died.  In  this  case,  being 
obliged  to  continue  his  journey,  he  was  forced  to  sell  one  of 
his  mules  at  a  very  low  price,  and  with  the  proceeds  hire  two 
others,  so  that  when  he  arrived  at  the  place  of  destination,  he 
had  two  mules  less,  and  nothing  as  an  equivalent  in  their  place. 
He  was  left  without  means  of  subsistence,  and  a  long  and  rug- 
ged road  between  him  and  his  home.  A  bare  chance  alone 
relieved  his  distress  ;  sometimes  he  met  with  a  return  freight, 


424  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

which,  however,  from  the  fatigue  of  his  mules,  and  their  re- 
duced number,  was  necessarily  small,  and  if  it  was  enough  to 
replace  his  loss,  he  thought  he  had  made  a  successful  trip, 
though  after  two  or  three  months'  absence  he  had  gained  no- 
thing. 

After  the  mules  were  paid  for,  the  corregidor  no  longer  em- 
ployed the  Indian,  to  afford  him  arr  opportunity  of  paying  other 
debts,  all  of  which  were  kept  strictly  under  separate  heads; 
but  he  required  payment  in  cloth  and  the  products  of  his  little 
farm  or  garden.  Sometimes  he  distributed  more  mules,  though 
the  Indian  did  not  require  them,  in  order  to  increase  the  recua 
or  drove,  that  he  might  have  the  advantage  of  employing  a 
greater  number. 

It  not  unfrequently  happened,  that  the  mules,  from  being 
driven  hundreds  of  leagues,  from  change  of  climate  and  pas- 
ture, grew  sick  and  died,  even  in  a  day  or  two  after  they  had 
been  delivered  to  the  Indian.  An  instance  of  this  kind  fell 
under  the  notice  of  Ulloa  in  1742. 

Sometimes  they  distributed  or  reparted  wines,  brandies, 
olives,  or  oil,  which  the  Indians  never  used.  For  a  botija  of 
brandy,  (aguardiente),  they  were  charged  from  seventy  to 
eighty  dollars,  and  if  they  could  dispose  of  it  for  ten  or  twelve, 
they  esteemed  themselves  fortunate. 

Such  was  the  practice  of  the  repartimiento,  and  truly  does 
Ulloa  exclaim,  "  the  corregidores  must  have  been  abandoned 
by  the  hand  of  God,  to  practice  such  iniquities  !" 

In  1780,  the  corregidor  of  Chayenta,  Don  Joaquin  de  Aloz, 
and  the  corregid&r  of  Tinta,  Don  Antonio  Arriaga,  made  three 
repartimientos  in  one  year.  The  Indians,  unable  to  bear  such 
oppression,  rose,  put  to  death  the  corregidores,  and  every 
Spaniard  that  fell  into  their  hands.  The  veteran  troops  march- 
ed from  Lima  and  Buenos  Ayres  to  the  interior  of  Peru,  and 
from  Jujui  to  Cuzco  became  a  bloody  theatre  of  cruelty  and 
vengeance.  After  a  desolating  war  of  three  years,  the  In- 
dians again  fell  under  the  Spanish  yoke,  and  their  chief  ca- 
cique, Tupac  Amaru,  after  seeing  his  wife  and  children  coldly 
butchered  before  his  eyes,  was  sentenced  to  death  by  the 
Spanish  authorities.     The  executioner  tore  out  his  tongue,  and 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  425 

then  he  was  quartered  alive,  being  jerked  asunder  by  the  vio- 
lent efforts  of  four  horses  pulling  in  opposite  directions  !  This 
rebellion  put  an  end  to  the  repartimientos,  but  in  every  other 
respect  their  cruel  state  was  not  ameliorated.* 

Connected  with  the  corregidores  and  repartimientos,  was  a 
system  of  cruelty  practised  on  the  Indians,  known  by  the  name 
of  Mita. 

The  Mita  was  a  law,  which  obliged  every  estate  and  district 
to  give  a  certain  number  of  Indians,  to  labor  in  the  mines  and 
on  the  haciendas.  By  this  law  the  Indian  was  free  at  the  end 
of  a  year  ;  but  it  was  a  matter  of  no  importance  ;  for  whether  a 
"  mitayo"  or  not,  his  toils  were  the  same,  whether  employed 
for  the  benefit  of  the  corregidor,  the  miner,  or  haciendado 
(farmer.)  All  the  provinces  of  Quito  and  the  Serrania,  except 
Pisco  and  Nasca,  were  under  the  mita.  The  customs  observed 
in  Quito  will  illustrate  those  of  the  others.  The  haciendas  were 
divided  into  four  classes  :  first,  the  agricultural ;  second,  those 
for  grazing  large  cattle  ;  third,  those  for  rearing  small  cattle  ; 
and  fourth,  those  on  which  cotton  and  wool  were  manufac- 
tured. 

On  an  hacienda  of  the  first  class,  an  Indian  received  from 
fourteen  to  eighteen  dollars  a  year,  together  with  a  piece  of 
ground  from  twenty  to  thirty  yards  square  for  his  own  culti- 
vation. For  this  sum  he  was  obliged  to  work  three  hundred 
days  in  the  year,  sixty-five  being  allowed  for  Sundays  and 
other  prescribed  feasts  of  the  church.  The  mayordomo,  or 
overseer,  carefully  noted  the  number  of  days  the  Indian  had 
worked,  in  order  to  settle  the  account  at  the  end  of  the  year. 

Each  Indian  paid  from  his  salary,  eight  dollars  tribute,  and 
supposing  that  he  received  eighteen,  ten  were  left,  from  which 
two  dollars  and  two  reales  were  deducted  for  a  "capisayo"  to 
cover  his  nakedness,  leaving  him  seven  dollars  and  six  reales 
to  maintain  his  family,  and  to  pay  the  fees  exacted  by  the  cu- 
rate. This  was  not  all.  The  land  allotted  to  him  was  so  small, 
that  it  would  not  yield  sufficient  maize  to  nourish  his  family; 
he  was  therefore  usually  forced  to  purchase  from  his  master, 

*  Noticias  Secretas. 
54 


426  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  FACIFIC. 

six  fanegas  of  corn,  at  twelve  reales  the  fanega,  making  nine 
dollars  ;  so  that,  after  having  toiled  three  hundred  days,  and 
cultivated  his  little  garden,  without  receiving  anything  but  a 
coarse  capisayo  and  six  fanegas  of  corn,  he  was  brought  in 
debt  at  the  end  of  the  year,  one  dollar  and  six  reales,  which 
were  carried  forward  in  the  account  of  the  next.  If  an  animal 
died  upon  the  estate,  it  was  brought  in,  and  distributed  to  the 
Indians  at  a  high  price,  though  the  meat  was  in  such  a  condi- 
tion that  they  were  obliged  to  cast  it  to  the  dogs!* 

If  his  wife  or  a  child  died,  the  Indian's  misery  was  at  its 
height.  The  mitayo  was  anxious  to  find  means  to  pay  the  cu- 
rate the  rights  of  burial,  and  was  forced  to  apply  to  his  master, 
for  money  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  the  church  !  If  the  mitayo 
were  fortunate,  and  did  not  lose  one  of  his  family,  then  the  cu- 
rate obliged  him  to  bear  the  expense  of  some  ecclesiastic  "func- 
cion"  or  entertainment  in  honor  of  the  Virgin,  or  some  saint, 
thus  forcing  him  to  contract  another  debt,  and  leaving  him,  at 
the  end  of  the  year,  owing  more  than  the  amount  of  his  hire, 
without  his  having  even  touched  money,  or  received  an  equiva- 
lent. In  this  manner  the  master  acquired  a  right  over  his  per- 
son, and  obliged  him  to  continue  in  his  service  till  the  debt 
should  be  paid,  which  being  impossible,  the  Indian  became  a 
slave  for  life,  and,  contrary  to  all  equity,  the  children  were 
made  to  pay  the  inevitable  debt  of  their  father  ! 

Another  cruelty  was  practised.  In  years  of  common  scarcity, 
from  failure  of  the  crops,  the  price  of  corn,  which  was  the 
chief  article  of  food  used  by  the  Indians,  rose  to  three  or  four 
dollars  the  fanega  ;  the  masters  would  not  give  it  to  them,  nor 
increase  their  salaries,  but  sold  it,  and  depriving  them  of  nour- 
ishment, left  them  to  perish  with  hunger!  This  happened  in 
the  province  of  Quito,  in  1743  and  1744.t  An  immense  mor- 
tality was  the  consequence,  and  many  towns  and  estates  were 
depopulated. 

The  only  opportunity  the  Indians  had  of  tasting  meat,  was 
when  a  carcass  was  snatched  from  the  talons  of  condors  and 


•  Noticias  Secretaa. 
|  Ibid. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  427 

vultures,  for  which  they  were  charged  an  exorbitant  price, 
and  punished  if  they  refused  to  swallow  this  often  disgusting 
offal! 

The  Indians  who  became  mitayos  on  the  haciendas  of  the 
second  class,  where  black  cattle  were  chiefly  reared,  sometimes 
gained  more  than  the  day  laborers,  but  their  toil  was  greater. 
Each  one  was  charged  with  a  certain  number  of  cows,  and 
with  the  milk  of  which  they  were  required  to  make  a  stipulat- 
ed quantity  of  cheese,  that  was  given  to  the  overseer  on  the 
last  day  of  every  week,  and  scrupulously  weighed.  If  it  fell 
short  of  the  prescribed  weight,  the  deficiency  was  charged  to 
the  Indian's  account,  without  taking  into  consideration  the 
season,  the  pasture,  or  the  quantity  of  milk  yielded  ;  so  that  at 
the  end  of  the  year,  when  his  mita  ought  to  have  expired,  he 
was  more  enslaved  than  ever  ! 

On  those  haciendas  where  flocks  were  pastured,  the  Indian 
shepherd  received  eighteen  dollars,  if  he  had  charge  of  a  com- 
plete "  manada,"  (which  in  Europe  is  500  sheep,)  and  if  two, 
something  more,  though  not  double,  as  it  should  have  been. 
They  did  not  escape  the  cruel  tyranny  exercised  on  all  of  their 
race.  The  flocks  were  counted  every  month,  and  if  one  were 
missing,  unless  brought  forth  dead,  it  was  charged  to  the  In- 
dian ; — though  the  pasture  grounds  were  in  the  wilds  of  the 
Andes,  and  subject  to  the  inroads  of  condors,  that  often  car- 
ried away  the  lambs,  in  spite  of  the  shepherd  and  his  dogs, 
and  that  too  before  their  eyes. 

The  hut  of  an  Indian  was  so  small  that  he  could  scarcely 
extend  himself  in  it.  It  contained  no  moveables  ;  his  bed  was 
an  undressed  sheep  skin  ;  his  clothes  a  capisayo,  which  was 
never  taken  off,  not  even  to  sleep  ;  his  sustenance,  two  or 
three  spoonfuls  of  meal,  taken  dry  into  the  mouth,  and  wash- 
ed down  with  water,  or  chicha  when  he  could  get  it ;  to  this 
was  sometimes  added  a  handful  of  corn,  boiled  till  the  grain 
burst ! 

The  fourth  class  of  haciendas,  were  the  manufacturing, 
where  wool  and  cotton  were  converted  into  cloths,  baizes, 
serges,  &c. 

With  the  dawn,  the  Indian  repaired  to  his  task.    The  doors 


428  THREE   VEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

of  the  workshops  were  then  closed  till  mid-day,  when  the 
wives  were  admitted  to  give  their  husbands  the  scanty  noon- 
day meal,  for  which  a  very  short  time  was  allowed.  When 
darkness  prevented  them  from  working  any  longer,  the  over- 
seer entered,  and  collected  the  tasks  ;  those  Indians  who  had 
been  unable  to  conclude  them,  without  listening  to  reasons  or 
excuses,  were  most  inhumanly  scourged,  and,  to  complete  the 
punishment,  imprisoned,  though  the  workshop  was  nothing 
but  a  jail !  During  the  day,  the  master  and  overseer  made  fre- 
quent visits  to  the  manufactory,  and  if  any  negligence  were 
discovered,  on  the  part  of  any  one  of  the  workmen,  he  was 
immediately  chastised.  All  of  the  task  left  unfinished  was 
charged  at  the  end  of  the  year,  so  that  the  debt  went  on  in- 
creasing, till  the  master  acquired  a  right  to  enslave,  not  only 
the  Indian,  but  his  whole  family. 

Those  who  failed  to  pay  the  tribute  to  the  corregidor,  and 
who  were  consequently  condemned  to  the  manufactories,  shared 
a  still  more  cruel  fate.  They  received  a  real  a  day,  one  half 
of  which  was  retained  on  account  of  the  tribute,  and  the  other 
for  the  Indian's  maintenance,  and  as  he  was  not  allowed  to  go 
out  of  his  prison,  he  was  compelled  to  receive  for  it,  whatever 
his  master  pleased  to  give  him.  Always  looking  to  the  accu- 
mulation of  wealth,  without  regarding  the  means,  the  master 
usually  gave  such  corn  as  had  become  damaged  in  his  granary, 
and  the  carcasses  of  those  animals  that  died  on  the  estate.  For 
want  of  nourishment,  nature  was  exhausted  ;  the  unhappy  In- 
dian fell  sick,  and  often  died,  without  paying  off  his  tribute. 
The  Indian  lost  his  life,  and  the  country  that  inhabitant;  here 
is  one  source  of  the  great  depopulation  of  Peru.  The  greater 
number  of  the  Indians  died  with  their  tasks  in  their  hands. 
Complaint  of  sickness  was  unheeded,  and  he  was  deemed  hap- 
py who  reached  a  wretched  hospital,  where  to  expire !  An 
order  to  labor  in  the  manufactories,  was  regarded  with  the 
greatest  horror.  Wives  considered  their  husbands  already 
dead,  and  children  wept  for  their  parents,  when  the  order  was 
received  ! 

It  was  no  uncommon  thing,  to  meet  Indians  on  the  road, 
tied  by  the  hair  to  a  horse's  tail,  dragged  to  the  manufactories! 


NOTICES  OV  PERU.  429 

A  mestizo  or  negro  was  generally  the  conductor,  who  rode  the 
animal  !* 

On  the  slightest  provocation,  the  Indian  was  forced  to  lie 
flat  upon  the  ground,  and  count  the  stripes  on  his  bare  back, 
given  as  a  punishment.  When  he  arose,  he  was  taught  to  kneel 
before  whoever  had  beaten  him,  and,  kissing  his  hand,  say, 
"  Dios  se  lo  pague" — May  God  reward  you  !  It  was  not  only 
in  the  workshops  that  they  were  thus  punished,  but  private 
individuals,  and  the  curates,  often  scourged  them  in  the  same 
manner  ! 

This  was  the  ordinary  castigation.  When  the  ire  of  the  en- 
raged master  was  not  satisfied,  a  more  horrible  mode  of  tor- 
ment was  resorted  to.  Two  pieces  of  light  wood  were  set  on 
fire,  and  rubbed  together  so  as  to  cause  the  sparks  to  fall  in  a 
shower  on  the  bare  back  of  the  Indian,  while  he  was  receiving 
the  stripes!  Starvation,  imprisonment,  and  blows,  were  the 
corporeal  pains  inflicted  ;  but  greater  than  all,  was  cutting  off 
the  hair,  which  was  to  degrade  the  Indian  to  the  basest  in- 
famy !  In  short,  no  species  of  torment,  that  unbridled  ven- 
geance could  suggest,  was  left  unpractised  by  the  Spaniards. 

'  "It  was  a  common  saying,  among  the  judicious  and  com- 
passionate of  that  time,  that  their  continued  fasts,  perpetual 
nakedness,  constant  misery,  and  immense  punishment,  suffer- 
ed from  the  day  of  their  birth  till  that  of  their  death,  was  a 
sufficient  atonement  for  all  the  sins  that  could  be  attributed  to 
them,  and  rendered  them  worthy  of  canonization,  as  saints  in 
the  church. "t 

So  horrible  was  the  name  of  Spaniard,  or  Viracocha,  (which 
term  comprehends  all  who  are  not  Indians,)  that  parents  si- 
lenced their  children  by  threatening  that  the  Viracocha  would 
catch  them  ! 

Ulloa  states,  that  while  travelling  in  Peru,  when  he  wished 
to  inquire  his  road,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  come  up 
with  an  Indian,  for  if  his  approach  was  perceived,  the  Indian 


*  Indians  were  dragged  two  hundred  leagues,  as  mitayos,  to  toil  in  the  mines 
of  Potosi !     MS.  Report  of  the  Governor  of  Azangaro. 
f  Noticias  Secretas. 


430  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

fled  in  terror.  When  closely  pursued,  they  were  known,  rather 
than  be  overtaken,  to  throw  themselves  from  precipices,  at  the 
risk  of  their  lives  ! 

The  Indians  bore  this  unparalleled  oppression,  and  the  reli- 
gion of  iheir  oppressors,  which,  in  the  New  World,  was  the 
harbinger  of  every  vice,  and  the  destroyer  of  hope  ;  but  when 
once  roused  from  their  apathy,  it  was  impossible  again  to  re- 
duce them  to  the  yoke.  Though  the  spirit  of  liberty  occasion- 
ally scintillated  since  1741,  and  did  not  burst  forth  in  an  in- 
extinguishable blaze  till  1S09,  the  Indians  in  the  province  of 
Azangaro  are  not  entirely  satisfied  to  this  day,  that  the  revo- 
lution of  1S21  has  made  them  citizens  of  an  independent  re- 
public, with  equal  rights.  They  think  that  the  whites  tell 
them  they  are  free,  with  a  view  of  involving  them  in  some 
snare.* 

For  three  hundred  years,  Peru  was  ruled  by  a  succession  of 
tyrants  ;  and  since  the  revolution,  the  country  has  been  domi- 
neered over  by  a  set  of  factious  military  chieftains,  of  unbridled 
passions,  who  have  thought  of  little  else  than  self  aggrandize- 
ment. A  sketch  of  the  last  four  or  five  years,  will  convey  an 
idea  of  the  manner  in  which  the  people  have  been  misruled. 

In  1S27,  General  La  Mar,  a  man  of  mild  virtue,  and  emi- 
nent worth,  was  elected  to  the  presidency.  He  was  a  native  of 
Guayaquil,  and  served  in  the  Spanish  army  during  the  penin- 
sular war,  with  much  credit  to  himself.  On  his  return  to 
America,  he  was  appointed  Inspector  General  of  Peru,  and 
soon  after  attached  himself  to  General  San  Martin.  Having 
distinguished  himself  in  the  glorious  field  of  Ayacucho,  he  was 
elected  President  by  the  first  Congress  ;  but  he  had  too  little 
of  the  tyrant  in  his  character,  to  preside  over  a  people  among 
whom  a  strong  revolutionary  spirit  seems  to  predominate. 
They  manifested  for  him  all  that  admiration  and  enthusiasm  a 
mob  is  wont  to  display  on  the  accession  of  a  military  chieftain 
to  civil  authority.     His  name  was  painted  over  the  gates  of 

•  Manuscript  report,  drawn  up  by  order  of  the  Peruvian  government.  The 
observations  were  made  from  1825  to  1829  inclusive.  For  a  perusal  of  this 
document,  the  author  is  indebted  to  his  friend,  Samuel  Larned,  Esq.  Charge 
d' Affaires  from  the  United  States,  at  Lima. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  431 

Lima,  in  the  place  of  that  of  Bolivar  ;  salutes  were  fired,  and 
bells  pealed  joyously  on  convent  and  church  ;  the  city  was  illu- 
minated ;  balls  were  given,  and  entertainments  were  got  up  at 
the  theatre,  and  in  the  bull-ring. 

About  the  beginning  of  1828,  affairs  pending  between  Co- 
lombia and  Peru,  assumed  such  an  aspect  as  to  lead  to  the  de- 
claration of  war  between  the  neighboring  republics.  Peru 
drained  her  exhausted  treasury  in  equipping  her  army  and  navy; 
loans  were  consequently  exacted  from  the  people,  and  gave 
rise  to  disaffection  towards  La  Mar's  administration. 

The  armies  had  marched  to  the  respective  frontiers  of  the 
contending  nations,  and  in  September,  the  President  of  Peru 
took  command  of  the  forces,  and  established  his  head  quarters 
at  Loxa,  where  the  division  of  the  army  in  the  south,  and  the 
southern  recruits,  were  ordered  to  join  him.  Early  in  1829, 
Bolivar  was  at  Quito;  the  Colombian  army's  head  quarters  were 
at  Cuenca,  and  the  Peruvians  had  possession  of  Guayaquil. 

On  the  24th  of  May,  General  La  Fuente  arrived  at  Callao 
from  Arica,  with  1500  men,  well  equipped,  bringing  with  him 
equipments  for  a  thousand  more,  and  a  large  sum  of  money, 
coined  and  in  bullion.  When  the  vice-president  ordered  him 
to  deliver  up  these  funds,  he  refused,  saying  that  they  were 
intended  for  the  pay  and  subsistence  of  his  officers  and  men  ! 
which  excited  suspicions  as  to  his  honesty. 

On  the  night  of  the  day  of  his  arrival,  he  quartered  his 
troops  in  Castle  Independence.  So  soon  as  within  the  walls,  he 
ordered  the  troops  to  load  their  arms;  and  the  governor,  fear- 
ing that  the  general  had  designs  upon  the  fortress,  trained  se- 
veral field  pieces  on  the  doors  of  the  barracks  in  which  the 
men  were  quartered,  and  doubled  the  sentinels  at  all  the  posts  ! 
The  next  day,  La  Fuente  seized  every  horse  he  could  lay 
hands  upon,  mounted  four  hundred  men,  and  established  him- 
self at  Magdalena,  a  short  league  to  the  southward  and  west- 
ward of  Lima.  On  the  6th  of  June  1S29,  having  matured  his 
plans,  he  ejected  the  vice-president  and  all  his  official  adherents, 
and  assumed  the  administration  of  affairs  in  the  name  of  Gene- 
ral Gamarra  !  No  blood  was  shed  on  this  occasion.  The  usual 
number  of  proclamations  were  issued,  setting  forth  the  reasons 


432  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

for  such  violent  measures,  and  the  people,  always  ready  for  a 
holyday,  threw  up  their  caps  and  shouted 
"  Long  live  King  Richard  !" 

On  the  field  of  Cuenca,  or  Portete,  La  Mar  commanded  in 
person,  and  Gamarra  had  charge  of  the  body  of  reserve.  For- 
tune frowned  that  day  on  the  standard  of  Peru.  While  La  Mar 
was  sustaining  a  murderous  fire  from  a  thicket  which  surround- 
ed him  on  all  sides,  he  ordered  Gamarra  to  charge  with  his 
whole  force,  instead  of  which  he  ignominiously  heat  a  quick 
retreat,  and  galloped  off  the  field  !*  The  battle  was  lost,  and 
in  a  few  hours  afterwards,  La  Mar  was  made  prisoner  by  order 
of  Gamarra,  hurried  on  board  of  a  little  vessel,  and  sent  to  the 
mortiferous  climate  of  Costa  Rica,  where,  borne  down  with 
chagrin,  and  the  ingratitude  of  him  whom  he  thought  his  friend, 
he  shortly  died.t 

Such  was  the  plan  of  Gamarra,  to  elevate  himself  to  the  pre- 
sidential chair.  He  knew  that  La  Mar's  popularity,  which 
was  .already  diminished,  would  vanish  if  the  battle  of  Cuenca 
were  lost;  and  he  therefore  was  careful  to  bring  about  the  ca- 
tastrophe by  his  own  base  desertion. 

Peace  was  afterwards  negotiated.  Gamarra  became  the  sub- 
ject of  popular  acclamation,  and,  consequently,  president.  To 
reward  La  Fuente  for  his  assistance,  he  made  him  vice-presi- 
dent. The  self-election  of  these  men  was  confirmed  by  Con- 
gress, and  their  parasites  were  installed  in  office  with  the  usual 
oath. 

In  the  spring  of  1S31,  while  Gamarra  was  on  the  frontier, 
threatening  Bolivia,  La  Fuente  fell  under  his  patron's  suspi- 
cions. Soldiers  were  sent  at  night  to  seize  him  in  his  own 
dwelling.  He  fled  over  the  house  top,  and  the  officer  pursuing 
him  was  shot  in  mistake,  by  one  of  his  own  party.  La  Fuente 
sought  an  asylum  on  board  of  the  U.  S.  Ship  St.  Louis,  then 
at  Callao,  and  soon  after  retired  an  exile  to  Chile. 

•  El  Telegrafo  de  Lima. 

■J-  Soon  after  his  election  (1833,)  General  Orbegoso  submitted  a  resolution 
to  the  National  Convention,  to  remove  the  remains  of  La  Mar  to  Peru,  agree- 
ably to  his  dying  request. 


NOTICES  OF  PERU.  433 

On  the  18th  of  January  1832,  a  conspiracy  was  revealed  to 
Gamarra  by  anonymous  notes,  stating  that  a  regiment,  in  which 
Major  Rosel,  a  young  man  of  great  promise,  had  a  command, 
would  revolt  that  night,  and  seize  upon  the  person  of  the  pre- 
sident. In  the  afternoon  Rosel  drilled  three  companies,  and 
directed  them  to  stack  their  arms  in  the  barrack  yard.  At  eight 
o'clock,  while  pacing  in  his  quarters,  the  colonel  of  the  regi- 
ment entered,  accompanied  by  a  Serjeant  and  two  soldiers,  and 
ordered  them  to  seize  the  major.  No  sooner  was  the  order 
given,  than,  drawing  his  sword,  he  rushed  out  and  called  the 
soldiers  to  arms,  and  ordered  them  to  charge  a  company  that 
had  been  summoned,  at  the  same  instant,  by  the  colonel,  but 
they  hung  back.  Rosel  was  seized,  disarmed,  tried  on  the  spot, 
and  shot  the  following  morning  at  seven  o'clock  ! 

This  instance  is  related  to  illustrate  the  summary  process 
which  has  been  resorted  to  on  several  occasions  by  Gamarra. 
Several  revolutions,  as  all  such  incidents  are  termed,  have  been 
checked  during  his  administration,  and  many  of  them  are  said 
to  have  been  fictions.  The  people  of  Lima  never  take  part  in 
these  disturbances,  but,  like  peaceful  citizens,  retire  into  their 
houses,  and  there  quietly  wait  till  the  military  decide  the  mat- 
ter among  themselves,  and  again  resume  their  vocations,  only 
indulging  in  remarks  upon  the  "suffocated  revolution." 

Another  revolution,  according  to  Gamarra,  was  to  be  at- 
tempted in  March  1833.  On  the  night  of  the  sixteenth,  Ma- 
nuel Telleria,  President  of  the  Senate,  and  ex  officio  Vice 
President  of  the  Republic,  (La  Fuente  being  in  exile),  was 
seized  at  Chorillos,  where  he  had  gone  to  recruit  his  health, 
and  carried  a  prisoner  to  Callao,  charged  with  being  privy  to 
a  conspiracy  against  the  government.  On  the  twenty-first,  at 
midnight,  he  was  put  on  board  a  man-of-war  schooner,  the 
Peruana,  and  carried  to  Panama.  Some  delay  was  occasioned 
by  the  desertion  of  her  commander,  Otero,  a  young  man  of 
spirit,  who  refused  this  duty,  because  the  law  prohibits  any 
master  of  a  vessel,  whether  Peruvian  or  foreign,  from  taking 
any  individual  out  of  the  republic,  without  his  own  consent, 
under  heavy  penalties. 

In  July,  the  national  convention  assembled,  according  to  an 
55 


434  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE   PACIFIC. 

act  of  the  constitution  of  1S28,  for  the  purpose  of  reviewing 
and  correcting  the  fundamental  law  of  the  government.  Its 
sessions  were  for  some  time  irregular.  The  presidential  elec- 
tion was  about  taking  place,  and  it  is  alleged,  that  Gamarra, 
though  constantly  expressing  his  wish  and  determination  to 
resign,  did  every  thing  in  his  power  to  thwart  the  assembling 
of  congress,  that  the  election  might  not  take  place.  He  found 
that  his  popularity  was  fast  dwindling  away,  and  every  news- 
paper in  the  country  teemed  with  articles  against  his  tyranny 
and  injustice.  Revolts  occurred  in  several  places  north  and 
south,  and  having  appointed  Camporedondo  to  administer  af- 
fairs during  his  absence,  Gamarra  went  south  to  quell  a  revo- 
lution, which  had  broken  out  in  the  neighborhood  of  Aya- 
cucho. 

The  term  of  his  administration  expired  on  the  20th  of  De- 
cember;  on  the  19th,  he  sent  in  his  resignation  to  the  national 
convention,  and  in  an  address  to  the  people,  declared,  that  the 
long  wished  for  day  had  arrived  when  he  could  retire  into  pri- 
vate life,  where  he  should  remain,  unless  his  sword  should  be 
required  in  the  service  of  his  country. 

On  the  22d,  General  Don  Luis  Jose  Orbegoso  was  elected 
provisional  president,  until  an  election  should  take  place.  The 
convention  continued  its  sessions  from  day  to  day,  till,  on  the 
18th  of  January  1834,  they  were  dispersed  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet  by  Gamarra  and  his  satellite  Bermudez !  It  was  a 
bloody  day,  and  many  lost  their  lives.  Gamarra,  however, 
reckoned  without  his  host,  for  he  was  driven  from  Lima,  and 
at  the  latest  dates  was  almost  alone  in  Arequipa,  and  his  wife 
had  sailed  for  Chile. 

Gamarra,  who  is  a  native  of  Cuzco,  served  in  the  Spanish 
army  in  Upper  Peru,  and  rose  from  the  grade  of  serjeant  to  that 
of  colonel.  He  was  placed  at  the  head  of  a  regiment  at  Cuzco, 
destined  as  a  reinforcement  of  the  Spanish  forces  at  Lima; 
before  reaching  there,  however,  he,  with  many  distinguished 
officers,  joined  the  Liberating  army,  on  the  24th  of  January 
1821.  He  was  attached  to  the  "  Division  Libertadora,"  under 
the  command  of  General  Arenales,  by  San  Martin,  but  during 
the  whole  campaign  behaved  in  the  most  indecorous  manner, 


NOTICES    OP  PERU.  435 

avoiding,  in  several  instances,  skirmishing  with  the  guerilla 
parties,  which  it  was  his  duty  to  engage;  and  on  the  eve  of  a 
great  action,  he  obtained  permission  from  General  Arenales  to 
leave  the  army  to  hasten  to  Lima  to  inform  San  Martin  of  the 
state  of  affairs  in  the  Sierra  !* 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Valedictory  to  the  south-west  coast  of  America,  and  return  home. 

The  last  two  weeks  of  August  1S33  were  spent  in  preparing 
for  our  homeward  bound  passage,  and  in  taking  leave  of  our 
numerous  friends  in  Lima,  who  seemed  to  think,  that  they 
could  not  sufficiently  manifest,  in  any  way,  the  warmth  of  their 
feelings  towards  us,  and  their  regret  at  separation.  Nor  were 
these  manifestations  confined  to  our  countrymen  sojourning 
there;  both  Englishmen  and  Peruvians  vied  in  their  demon- 
strations of  kindness  towards  the  officers  of  our  happy  ship. 

Captain  Gregory  wrote  a  farewell  letter  to  General  Vivero, 
expressing  thanks  for  the  many  acts  of  kindness  extended  to 
the  vessels  of  the  United  States,  while  the  squadron  was  under 
his  command,  as  well  as  for  the  many  personal  civilities  re- 
ceived by  him  and  his  officers,  from  General  Vivero,  when  at 
Callao.  To  that  letter,  the  following  was  received  in  reply, 
which  is  satisfactory,  because  it  shows  on  what  footing  the  of- 
ficers of  the  United  States  Navy  stand  in  the  estimation  of  Pe- 
ruvians. 


•  See,  Memoria  Historica  sobre  las  Operaciones  e  Incidencias  de  la  Division 
Libertadora  a  las  ordenes  del  General  D.  Juan  Antonio  Alvarez  de  Arenales 
en  su  segunda  campana  a  la  Sierra  del  Peru,  en  1821.  Por  Jose  Arenales  ; 
Tenienle  Coronel  graduado  de  Artilleria,  &c.    Buenos  JLyres.  1832. 


436  THREE   YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

11  Lima,  August  24,  1833. 

"  Sor.  Don.  F.  H.  Gregory. 

"Dear  Sir,  and  friend  of  my  distinguished  affection;  your 
farewell  letter  leaves  me,  as  well  as  my  family,  to  regret  that 
we  can  no  longer  enjoy  the  esteemed  virtues  of  yourself  and 
your  officers,  who  all  do  honor  to  the  navy  of  your  country, 
which  has  always  been  happy  in  bringing  up  officers  of  distin- 
guished education,  politeness,  and  noble  deportment.  To  these 
superior  qualifications,  while  I  had  command  in  Callao,  I  was 
unable  to  reciprocate,  by  my  attentions  and  deportment,  ac- 
cording to  my  wishes.  I,  and  my  family,  desire  that  you  may 
meet,  both  in  your  family  and  in  your  career,  every  felicity 
and  prosperity  that  you  can  wish.  I  beg  you  to  present  my 
compliments  and  remembrances  to  Commodore  Hull,  late  of 
the  Frigate  United  States,  and  to  Commander  Finch*  of  the 
Vincennes,  who  both  honored  us  with  their  friendship.  You, 
my  friend,  under  any  circumstances,  can  count  that  you  leave 
here  one  filled  with  gratitude  for  your  friendship  and  atten- 
tions, and  who  will  always  be 

Your  very  affectionate, 

grateful,  and  attached  servant, 

"  Jose  Pasql.  de  Vivero." 

The  first  day  of  September,  in  spite  of  our  being  homeward 
bound,  was  the  saddest  of  our  cruise.  The  ship  was  thronged 
with  our  friends,  among  whom,  besides  our  countrymen,  were 
a  crowd  of  English,  French,  and  Peruvian  naval  officers,  and 
a  host  of  citizens.  There  never  could  have  been  a  greater  show 
of  warm  and  regretful  feelings  among  men,  than  were  manifest- 
ed that  day  !  Weather-beaten  cheeks  were  moist  with  tears, 
as  they  grasped  our  hands  for  the  last  time,  and  descended  the 
gangway  to  their  boats! 

About  four  o'clock  P.  M.,  our  ship  got  underway,  and  sail- 
ing in  a  beautiful  curve  towards  the  shore,  fired  a  salute  of 
twenty-one  guns,  which  was  immediately  returned  from  Castle 

•  Now,  Captain  William  Compton  Bolton. 


CONCLUSION.  437 

Independence.  The  French  brig  of  war  Griffon,  Captain  Du 
Pettit  Thouar,  hoisted  the  American  ensign,  and  fired  a  salute, 
which  we  returned  ;  then  followed  the  same  compliment  from 
the  U.  S.  Schooner  Dolphin  (Lt.  Commandant  J.  C.  Long), 
another  from  a  French  sloop  of  war,  and  again  several  guns 
were  fired  from  on  board  of  a  whale  ship,  all  of  which  we  re- 
plied to  in  turn,  as  we  glided  steadily  over  the  smooth  surface 
of  the  bay,  followed  in  our  motions  by  the  Dolphin,  now  full 
of  ladies,  who  had  come  from  Lima  to  see  us  off,  waving  their 
white  handkerchiefs,  as  the  vessel  passed  gracefully  under  our 
stern,  and  stood  in  to  her  anchorage.  Our  band  was  on  the 
poop,  playing  Peruvian  airs,  till  nearly  off  the  point  of  San 
Lorenzo,  when  the  Dolphin's  crew  mounted  the  rigging,  and 
gave  three  hearty  cheers,  which  were  heartily  returned  by 
the  Falmouths. — Then  our  music  told  us  of  "Home  !  sweet 
Home,"  and  we  filled  away  with  a  gentle  breeze,  and  placed 
the  island  between  us  and  the  harbor,  as  the  sun  dipt  below 
the  western  horizon. 

We  lingered  in  a  calm  during  the  early  part  of  the  next  day, 
close  to  San  Lorenzo ;  the  sea  was  glassy ;  the  sails  flapped 
mournfully;  and  our  gorgeous  stripes  hung  motionless ;  the  very 
ship  seemed  to  regret  leaving  the  placid  waters  and  ever  be- 
nign skies  of  the  Pacific. 

About  meridian,  the  breeze  sprang  up,  and  gradually  fresh- 
ened, carrying  us  in  thirteen  days  and  some  hours  to  our  an- 
chorage in  Valparaiso.  There  we  found  H.  M.  Frigate  Dublin, 
with  whose  commander  and  officers  we  had  been  for  two  years 
on  the  most  cordial  and  intimate  terms,  frequently  entertaining 
each  other  with  dinners  and  balls  on  board,  whenever  we  met. 

In  Chile,  though  perhaps  equally  sincere,  the  parting  scene 
was  not  so  vivid  in  demonstrations  of  regret  as  in  Peru.  We 
were  dinnered,  danced,  and  saluted,  ashore  and  afloat,  as  long 
as  we  remained.  As  an  evidence  of  the  feeling  which  existed 
between  the  English  and  American  naval  officers  in  the  Pacific, 
I  beg  to  introduce  the  following  letters.  Such  letters  cannot 
be  but  gratifying  both  to  Americans  and  Englishmen,  and, 
being  equally  honorable  to  the  heads  and  hearts  of  their  writ- 
ers, I  take  the  liberty  (for  which  I  ask  their  forgiveness,)  of 


43S  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

publishing  them,  believing  that  neither  commander  expected 
to  see  them  in  print. 

"J£T.  M.  Ship  Dublin. 
"  Valparaiso  Bay,  24th  September,  1S33. 
"My  Dear  Gregory — 

I  cannot  allow  the  Falmouth  to  leave  this  coast,  without  ex- 
pressing how  much,  individually,  I  shall  feel  the  loss  of  your- 
self, your  officers,  and  ship.  But  it  is  not  me  alone,  but  all 
my  countrymen  who  feel  it.  Your  attention  and  kindness  can 
never  be  exceeded.  To  you  our  trade  and  commerce  are  much 
indebted,  and  1  regret  I  cannot  find  words  strong  enough  to 
express  the  feelings  of  gratitude  for  the  many  obligations  we 
are  all  under  to  you.  No  !  my  good  friend,  no  Englishman 
ever  knew  what  distress  was  in  the  presence  of  the  Falmouth, 
or  where  she  could  reach  to  assist  them.  As  senior  officer  of 
the  English  squadron,  I  thank  you  for  all  your  friendly  com- 
munications and  assistance  at  all  times,  which  I  have  reported 
to  my  government.  Individually,  1  am  under  the  greatest  ob- 
ligations, and  believe  me,  a  most  grateful  heart  thanks  you 
most  sincerely  for  it.  It  may  not  be  our  lot  to  meet  again 
upon  the  service  of  our  respective  nations,  but  I  trust,  my  good 
and  dear  friend,  we  shall  do  so  in  private  life,  when  the 
greatest  pleasure  to  me  will  be,  to  cultivate  that  sincere  friend- 
ship which  has  so  happily  subsisted  between  us. 

"  May  you  have  a  safe  and  quick  passage  home,  and  enjoy 

all  the  comforts  and  happiness  1  wish  you.     I  enclose  you  my 

address,  and  I  need  not  say  how  delighted  I  shall  be  to  see 

you  and  your  family  there,  as  well  as  any  of  the  Falmouths. 

"Believe  me,  my  dear  Gregory, 

"Your  very  sincere  friend, 

"J.  ToWNSnEND." 


"  U.  S.  Ship  Falmouth. 
"  Valparaiso,  September  25th,  1S33. 
"My  Dear  Sir— 

"From  your  Lordship's  generous  and  friendly  conduct  to- 
wards me,  on  all  occasions,  since  I  have  had  the  honor  and 


CONCLUSION.  439 

happiness  of  your  acquaintance  and  friendship,  I  had  imagined 
that  the  measure  of  my  obligations  was  completely  filled;  but 
your  kind  farewell  letter,  written  with  a  feeling  and  delicacy 
which  have  always  characterized  your  deportment  towards 
me,  has  increased  those  obligations,  and  leaves  me  where  I  feel 
I  must  always  remain — your  Lordship's  most  grateful  debtor. 
I  thank  your  Lordship,  not  only  for  myself,  but  in  the  name 
of  the  officers  of  this  ship,  for  your  kindness  and  attention  to 
us  all — and  assure  you,  that  we  unite  in  expressing  our  deep 
and  sincere  regret,  on  the  occasion  of  parting  with  so  valued  a 
friend :  and  we  all  respond  most  cordially  to  the  wishes,  so 
kindly  expressed  by  your  Lordship,  that  our  destinies  may  at 
some  future  time  unite  us  in  the  bonds  of  friendship.  As  an 
individual  of  a  nation,  linked  to  yours  by  feelings  and  asso- 
ciations which  can  never  fail  to  have  their  proper  influence 
upon  me,  I  feel  that  your  Lordship  has,  in  the  warmth  of  your 
friendship,  ascribed  to  me  more  merit  than  the  little  services, 
occasionally  rendered  your  countrymen,  deserve.  The  gene- 
rous examples  which  your  Lordship  kept  continually  in  my 
view,  as  well  as  those  of  my  gallant  friend,  Captain  Hope,  and 
others,  left  me  no  choice  of  action,  and  leaves  me  no  other 
merit,  than  that  of  having  reciprocated  them  as  nearly  as  my 
abilities  and  circumstances  would  allow.  A  pleasing  part  of 
my  duty  has  been  performed,  in  representing  to  the  govern- 
ment your  friendly  conduct  towards  the  flag  of  our  country, 
and  the  important  services  rendered  its  commercial  interest. 
"  That  your  Lordship  may  ere  long  be  happily  restored  to 
your  family  and  country,  and  long  enjoy  every  blessing  of  this 
life,  is  the  sincere  wish  of, 

"Your  Lordship's 
"  Very  grateful  and  obedient  friend, 

F.  H.  Gregory." 
"To  the  Lord  James  Townshend, 

ti  Commandiiig  H.  B.  M.  Squadron, 
"  Pacific  Ocean.'* 

Both  in  Peru  and  Chile,  we  left  many  choice  American  spi- 
rits,— men  whom  any  nation  would  be  proud  to  rank  among 


440  THREE  YEARS  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

her  sons,  and  whom  we  glory  to  call  our  friends  and  country- 
men. We  rememher  them  with  pride  and  affection,  when  we 
recur  to  the  many  happy  hours  spent  together,  either  beneath 
their  hospitable  roofs,  or  on  board  our  own  little  ship.  To 
many  of  us,  the  past  cruise  rests  upon  the  heart  like  the  me- 
mory of  a  bright  dream  of  fairy  land,  which  Hope  whispers 
we  shall  visit,  and  find  the  reality  superior  to  the  anticipations 
of  imagination. 

We  may  never  again  meet, — 

"  May  they  sometimes  recall,  what  I  cannot  forget, 
That  communion  of  heart  and  that  parley  of  soul 
Which  has  lengthen'd  our  nights,  and  illumin'd  our  bowl  !" 

Oil  the  fifth  of  October  1S33,  we  got  underway,  and  after 
saluting  the  town,  and  exchanging  cheers  and  salutes  with  H. 
M.  Frigate  Dublin,  we  filled  away,  and  bade  a  long  farewell 
to  the  shores  of  Chile.  We  passed  the  Cape,  and  gazed  upon 
the  snowy  peaks  of  the  "  Land  of  Fire,"*  with  the  thermome- 
ter at  33°  F. 

On  the  ninth  of  November,  we  anchored  in  the  mouth  of 
the  broad  expanding  Rio  de  la  Plata,  and  the  next  evening  at 
Montevideo.  Having  visited  Buenos  Ayres,  and  the  town  of 
Maldonado,  we  stood  to  sea  on  the  evening  of  the  twentieth, 
but  did  not  reach  Rio  de  Janeiro  until  the  eighth  of  Decem- 
ber. 

On  the  fifteenth,  the  ship  having  been  watered,  and  our  sup- 
plies filled  up,  we  got  underway,  and  felt  that  we  were  really 
"homeward  bound."  On  the  sixth  of  January  1834,  we  crossed 
the  equator  into  our  own  hemisphere,  and  soon  gained  a  sight 
of  the  North  Star,  which  had  been  so  long  a  stranger  to  our 
eyes.  On  the  thirty-first  of  January,  we  made  the  shores  of 
New  Jersey,  and  the  next  day,  our  ship  was  secured  at  the 
navy  yard  New  York,  having  been  absent  two  years  and  eight 
months,  in  which  time  we  sailed  50,132  miles,  in  401  days. 

Those  only  who  have  been  absent  on  a  distant  station,  can 
appreciate  the  feelings  that  fill  the  heart  after  so  long  an  ab- 

•  Terra  del  Fuego. 


CONCLUSION.  441 

sence.  The  joy  of  arriving  is  always  marred  by  hopes  and 
fears  for  the  health  and  lives  of  our  dearest  friends;  we  had 
been  eight  months  without  information  from  our  homes,  and 
it  was  not  till  the  return  of  mail,  that  we  felt  sure  of  their  ex- 
istence. Can  any  one  figure  to  himself  the  state  of  feeling  with 
which  the  first  letter  is  opened  and  read  ?  It  is  worth  a  three 
years'  cruise  to  feel  the  joyousness  of  the  moment,  when  we 
can  pronounce  to  ourselves  "All's  well." 


THE  END. 


56 


JUST  PUBLISHED  BY  CAREY,  LEA,  &  BLANCIIARD. 


PENCIL  SKETCHES,  or  Outlines  of  Char- 
acter and  Manners.  By  Miss  Leslie. 

"  Look  here  upon  this  picture,  and  on  this." — Shahs. 
Contents. — The  Escorted  Lady.  A  Pic-Nic 
at  the  Sea-Shore. ;  The  Miss  Vanlears.  Country 
Lodgings.  Sociable  Visiting.  Frank  Finlay. 
Tlie  Travelling  Tin-man.  Mrs.  Washington 
Potts.  Uncle  Philip.  The  Revolutionary  Officer. 
Poland  and  Liberty.  The  Duchess  and  Sancho. 
The  ("lean  Face.  Lady  Jane  (rrey.  In  one 
volume,  l^ino. 

"  Miss  Leblii*  tuts,  skilfully  and  hard,  the  follies,  foibles,  and  exception- 
able manners  of  our  meridian.  She  is  perhaps  too  severe  ;  she  draws  too 
broadly,  hut  she  is  always  more  or  less  entertaining,  and  CODVeyi  salutary 
lessofueven  in  her  strongest  caricatures.  Her  sutijects,  incidents,  and  per* 
sous,  are  happily  chosen  for  her  purposes." — Natiimul  Uuz<ttc. 

LEGENDS  of  the  LIBRARY  at  LILIES. 

By  the  Lord  and  Lady  there.     In  2  vols. 

12mo. 

"Two  delightful  volumes,  various,  graceful,  vvitli  the 
pathos  exquisitely  relieved  by  gaiety;  and  the  romantic. 
legend  vveil  contrasted  by  the  lively  sketch  from  actual 
existence." — Literary  Gazette. 

NEW  GIL  BLAS,  or  Pedro  of  Penaflor.  By 
R.  D.  Inglis,  Author  of  Spain  in  1830,  &c. 

"The  whole  work  is  very  amusing.'* — Lit.  Gaz. 
"Those  who  want  a  few  hours'  pleasant  reading  are 
not  likely  to  meet  with  a  book  more  to  their  taste?." — 

Jitkcnu:uni. 

THE  BUCCANEER.  By  Mrs.  S.  C.  Hall. 
In  2  vols. 

"  The  perusal  of  these  volumes  warrants  our  precon- 
ceived impressions  of  the  ample  capacities  of  Mrs.  Hall 
to  sustain  the  bolder  flight  she  has  undertaken." — United 
Service  Journal. 

"  The  work  now  before  us  belongs  to  the  historical 
school ;  but  it  has  that  talent  which  bestows  its  own 
attraction  on  whatever  subject  its  peculiar  taste  may 
select.  We  sincerely  congratulate  Mrs.  Hall  on  the  in- 
terest and  the  talent  displayed  in  the  Buccaneer." — Lit. 
Gazette. 

SWALLOW  BARN,  or,  A  SOJOURN  IN 
THE  OLD  DOMINION.    In  2  vols.  12mo. 

"We  cannot  but  predict  a  warm  reception  of  this 
work  among  all  persons  who  have  not  lost  their  relish 
for  nature  and  probability,  as  well  as  all  those  who  can 
properly  estimate  the  beauties  of  simplicity  in  thought 
and  expression." — New  York  Mirror. 

"  One  of  the  cleverest  of  the  last  publications  written 
on  this  or  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic." — New  York 
Courier  and  Inquirer. 

"  The  style  is  admirable,  and  the  sketches  of  character, 
men,  and  scenery,  so  fresh  and  agreeable,  that  we  can- 
not help  feeling  that  they  are  drawn  from  nature." 

IVAN  VEJEEGHEN,  or  LIFE  IN  RUSSIA. 
By  Thaddeus  Bulgarin.     2  vols.  12mo. 

"This  is  a  genuine  Russian  novel,  ami  a  tale,  which, 
with  the  interest  of  a  fictitious  story,  presents  many 
details  of  a  state  of  society  of  which  nothing  can  be 
learned  from  books  of  travels.  It  is  in  every  respect 
equal  to  Hope's  Anastasius,  and  well  deserves  to  equal 
that  renowned  romance  in  popularity;  it  has  all  the 
novelty  and  the  ability." — Monthly  Magazine. 

THE  PARSON'S  DAUGHTER.  By  The- 
odore Hook,  Author  of  Sayings  and  Do- 
ings, &c.     In  2  vols.  12mo. 

"We  proceed  to  assure  the  reader,  who  has  it  before 
him,  that  he  will  enjoy  an  intellectual  treat  of  no  mean 
order.  The  principal  feature  of  its  excellence  is  an  all- 
engrossing  interest,  which  interest  is  mainly  attributa- 
ble to  the  extreme  vraisemblance  of  its  incidents,  and 
the  fidelity  with  which  each  character  supports  its 
individuality.  In  it  there  is  as  much  invention  and 
originality  as  we  have  ever  met  with  in  a  modern 
novel,  be  the  author  who  he  may." — Metropolitan. 


ROSINE    LAVAL.      By   Mr.   Smith.     An 
American  Novel.     In  1  volume,  12mo. 

"The  perusal  of  a  few  pn^fs  of  the  work  must  [mpreta  every  reader 
With  the  opinion  that  the  writer  is  no  ordinary  person."    Nat.  Gazritt. 

"  His  paces  abound  with  passages  of  vigor  ai.,1  !,-  my,  v  ,t|,  i,l1I(  \,  (U1;,i 
for  abstract  thought;  and  with  group*  of  incident  ..),,.  i.  ,,,  :  ,,,,|y  fix  the 
attention  oJ  the  naader,  but  ftwaft  his  admiration."— PhU,  Gctzttu. 

11  It  is  one  of  the  most  pleasing,  chaste,  and  spirited  production*  that  we 
have  met  with  for  a  long  tune.  We  may  claim  it  with  pridt:  as  an  Ameri- 
can production. "—Halt,  Gazette. 

FRANKENSTEIN:    or,  THE    MODERN 
PROMETHEUS.   By  Mary  W.  Shelley, 

Author  of  the  Last  Man,  Perkin  Warbeck, 
&c.     2  vols. 

"  Vigorous,  terrible,  and  with  its  interest  sustained 
lo  tin-  last,  Frankenstein  is  certainly  one  of  the  most 
original  works  that  ever  proceeded  from  a  female  pen." 
— Literary  Gazette. 

THE   RECTORY   OF  VALEHEAD.     By 
the  Rev.  Robert  Wilson  Evans,  M.  A. 

"  Universally  and  cordially  do  we  recommend  this 
delightful  volume.  Impressed  with  the  genuine  spirit 
of  Christianity;  a  diary,  as  it  were,  of  the  feelings, 
hopes,  and  sorrows  of  a  family,— it  comes  home  to  all, 
either  in  sympathy  or  example.  It  is  a  beautiful  pic- 
ture of  a  religious  household,  influencing  to  excellence 
all  within  its  sphere.  We  believe  no  person  could  read 
this  work,  and  not  be  the  better  for  its  pious  aim  touch- 
ing lessons." — Literary  Gazette. 

"  We  fearlessly  pronounce  this  delightful  little  volume 
to  be  not  only  one  of  the  most  faultless,  but  every  way 
valuable  works  it  has  ever  fallen  to  our  lot  to  recorn 
mend  to  public  perusal."— Stamford  Herald. 

PICTURES  OF  PRIVATE  LIFE.    By  Sa- 
rah Stickney.     In  1  neat  18mo.  vol. 

"  The  publishers  deserve  the  thanks  of  the  lovers  of 
pure,  chastened,  and  profitable  fiction,  for  their  reprint 
of  this  charming  little  work.  It  cannot  fail  to  become 
as  popular  here  as  it  already  is  in  England.  It  is  a  col- 
lection of  tales  and  sketches,  designed  to  impress  upon 
the  mind  useful  lessons  of  piety,  virtue  and  wisdom. 

"  It  is  written  in  a  style  of  unusual  excellence — mas- 
culine in  its  vigor,  yet  light  and  playful  in  its  delicacy, 
and  embodies  several  scenes  of  pathos  and  feeling  of 
which  Sterne  or  M'Kenzie  might  be  proud. 

"  To  those  whose  taste  has  not  been  perverted  by  the 
flashy  wit  and  nauseous  sentimentality  of  modern  fic- 
tion, we  commend  the  immediate  purchase  of  this  de- 
lightful little  work." — Daily  Intelligencer. 


ivnss  AUSTEN. 

ELIZABETH  BENNET;  or,  Pride  and  Pre- 
judice.   In  2  vols.  12mo.    By  Miss  Atjsten. 

"  One  of  the  first  female  novelists."—  Sir  Walter  Scott. 

"The  most  correct  of  female  writers,  Miss  Austen.  "— 
Miss  Mitford.  in  Our  Village. 

"  Her  fables  appear  to  us,  in  their  own  way,  pearly 
faultless.  *  *  *  She  conducts  her  conversations  with  a 
regard  to  character  hardly  exceeded  by  Shakspeare  him- 
self. Like  him,  she  shows  as  admirable  a  discrimination 
in  the  character  of  fools,  as  of  people  of  sense:  a  merit 
which  is  far  from  common.  *  *  *  Those  who  delight  in 
the  study  of  human  nature,  may  improve  in  the  I  mu, 
ledge  of  it,  and  in  the  profitable  application  of  that 
knowledge,  by  the  perusal  of  such  actions  as  those  before 
us." — Quarterly  Review. 

PERSUASION,  a  Novel.     By  the  same  Au- 
thor.    In  2  vols. 

"  It  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  fictions  of  common  life 
we  ever  remember  to  have  met  with."— Quarterly  Rev. 

MANSFIELD  PARK.    By  the  same  Author. 

"  Mansfield  Park  contains  some  of  Miss  Austen's 
moral  lessons,  as  well  as  her  most  humorous  descrip- 
tions.'1— Quarterly  Review. 

By  the  same  Author — 

NORTHANGER  ABBEY,  2  vols. 

EMMA,  2  vols. 

SENSE  AND  SENSIBILITY,  2  vols. 


Bill DtiE WATER    TREATISES. 


This  series  of  Treaiiscs  Lb  published  under  the  following  circumstances:— 

The  Rigid  Honorable  and  Rev.  Francis  Henry,  Earl  of  Bridgewater,  died  in  the  month  of  February, 
1825;  he  directed  certain  trustees  therein  Darned,  to  invest  in  the  public  funds,  the  sum  of  eight  thousand 
pounds  Merlins;  tlu>  sum,  with  the  accruing  dividends  thereon,  to  be  h<  Id  at  ihc  disposal  of  the  President, 
liir  the  lime,  being,  of  the  1  i •  ■  \ n I  Society  of  London,  to  be  ]>aid  to  the  person  or  persons  nominated  by  him. 
The  Testator  lamer  directed,  that  die  person  or  persons  selected  by  the  said  President,  should  be  appointed 
to  write,  print  and  publish  one  thousand  copies  of  a  work,  on  the  Power,  Wisdom,  and  Goodness  of  God,  as 
manifested  in  the  Creation;  illustrating  such  work,  by  all  reasonable  arguments,  as,  for  instance,  the  variety 
and  formation  of  God's  creatures  in  the  Animal,  Vegetable,  and  Mineral  Kingdoms  ;  the  effect  of  digestion, 
and.  (hereby,  of  conversion;  the  construction  of  the  hand  of  man,  and  an  infinite  variety  of  other  arguments; 
aa  also  by  discoveries,  ancient  and  modem,  in  arts,  sciences,  and  the  whole  extent  of  literature. 

red,  moreover,  that  the  profits  arising  from  the  sale  of  the  works  so  published,  should  be  paid  to  the 
author-  of  the  works. 

The  late  President  of  the  Royal  Society,  Davies  Gilbert,  Esq.,  requested  the  assistance  of  his  Grace,  the 
Archbishop  of  Canterbury,  and  of  the  Bishop  of  London,  in  determining  u|>on  the  best  mode  of  carrying  into 
effect,  the  intentions  of  the  Testator.  Acting  with  their  advice,  and  with  the  concurrence  of  a  nobleman 
immediately  connected  with  the  deceased.  Mr.  Davies  Gilbert  appointed  the  following  eight  gentlemen  to 
Writ)   separate  Treatises  in  the  different  branches  of  the  subjects  here  Mated : — 

I.  The  Adaptation  of  External  Nature  to  the  Moral  and  Intellectual  Constitution  of  Man.  by  the  Rev. 
Thomas  Chalmers,  D.  D.,  Professor  of  Divinity  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh. 

II.  The  Adaptation  of  External  Nature  to  the  Physical  Condition  of  Man,  by  John  Kidd,  M.  D.,  F.  R.  S., 
:         -  Professor  of  Medicine  in  the  University  of  Oxford. 

III.  Astronomy  and  General  Physics,  considered  with  reference  to  .Natural  Theoiogy,  by  the  Rev.  William 
Whewoll,  M.  A.,  F.  R.  S.,  Fellow  of  Trinity  College,, Cambridge. 

IV.  The  Hand ;  its  mechanism  and  vital  endowments  as  evincing  design,  by  Sir  Charles  Bell,  K.  H.,  F.  R.  S. 

V.  Animal  and  Vegetable  Physiology,  by  Peter  Mark  Roget,  M.  D.,  Fellow  of  and  Secretary  to  the  Royal 

Society. 

VI.  Geology  and  Mineralogy,  by  the  Rev.  Wm.  Buckland,  D.  D.,  F.  R-  S.,  Canon  of  Christ  Church,  and 
Professor  of  Geology  in  the  University  of  Oxford. 

VIL  The  History,  Habits,  and  Instincts  of  Animals,  by  the  Rev.  Wm.  Kirby.  M.  A.,  F.  R.  S 
VIII.  Chemistry,  Meteorology,  and  the  Function  of  Digestion,  by  WTm.  Prout,  M.  D.,  F.  R.  S. 


THE  FOLLOWING  ARE  PUBLISHED. 
OX  THE  ADAPTATION  OF  EXTERNAL 
NATURE  TO  THE  MORAL  AND  IN- 
TELLECTUAL CONSTITUTION  OF 
MAX.  By  the  Rev.  Thomas  Chalmers, 
f ).  D. ;  being  Part  I.  of  the  Bridgewater 
Treatises  on  the  Power,  Wisdom,  and  Good- 
ness of  God,  as  manifested  in  the  Creation. 
In  one  vol.  12mo. 

"The  volumes  before  US  are  every  way  worthy  of  their 

It  would  seem  almost  supererogatory  to  pass 
any  judgment  on  the  style  of  a  writer  so  celebrated  as 
Dr!  Chalmers,  lie  is  wefl  known  as  i  logician  not  to  be 
baffled  by  any  difficulties;  as  one  who  boldly  grapples 
with  his  theme,  and  brings  every  energy  of  hi.-  dear  and 

intellect  into  the  field.  No  sophism  i 
Ins  eagle  vision  —no  argument  that  could  either  enforce 
or  illustrate  his  subject  is  left  untouched.  Our  literature 
09  es  a  deep  dei,t  of  gratitude  to  the  author  of  these  ad- 
mirable volumes." — Lit.  Gazette. 
"  Dr.  Chalmers  baa  here  added  another  to  the  many 
inspeakable  services  which  be  has  rendered  before.  No 
praise  can  add  to  ins  character,  and  no  words  could  ex- 
pre**  the  reviewer's  sense  of  l>r  Chalmers'  merits,   it  is 

pleasure  to  think  ofsocb  a  man;  for  without 

is  with  him  on  every  point,  it  is  impossible  not 

to  r.ei  that  be  has  devoted  a  mighty  mind  to  the  b  isl  of 

that  every  feeling  and  thought  an 
—that  he  is  always  laboring  in  the  cause  of  God  and 
man    and  thai  many  of  the  truUvwhich  he  is  scatter 
log  will,  at  last,  by  God's  blearing,  be  instrumental  in 

destroying  errors  when   be  is  low  In  the  dust."— British 

" 

A  TREATISE   ON  THE    CAPTATION 
OP   EXTERNAL    NATURE  Tl  I   THE 

PHYSICAL  CONDITION  OF  MAN, 
principally  with  reference  to  the  supply  of 
Ins  wants,  and  the  exercise  of  bin  intellec- 
tual feculties.  By  John  Knm.  M.  I>.  P  U.S. 
ftegiua  Prof  Bor  of  Medicine  in  tbe  Univer- 


sity of  Oxford ;  being  Part  II.  of  the  Bridge- 
water  Treatises  on  the  Power,  Wisdom,  and 
Goodness  of  God,  as  manifested  in  the  Crea- 
tion.    In  one  vol.  12mo. 

"  It  is  ably  written,  anil  replete  both  with  interest  and 
instruction.  The  diffusion  of  such  works  cannot  fail  in 
be  attended  with  the  happiest  effects  in  justifying  'the 
ways  Of  God  to  man,'  and  illustrating  the  wisdom  and 
g !n ess  of  the  Creator  by  arguments  which  appeal  irre- 
sistibly both  to  the  reason  and  the  feelings.  Pew  can 
understand  abstract  reasoning,  and  still  fewer  relish  it. 
or  will  listen  to  it :  but  in  this  w  .irk  the  purest  morality 
and  the  kindle  st  (Mings  are  inculcated  through  the 
medium  of  agreeable  and  useful  information." — Balti- 
more On 

"It  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  individual  who 
feels  disposed  to  '  vindicate  the  wa\  s  of  CM  to  man.'  "— 
.V.  }'.  Com.  Mr. 

•  \'o  one  will  read  this  bonk  without  profit  ;  it  is  cer- 
tainly one  of  the  most  interesting  volumes  we  have 
e\    r  read." — Phil.  GV 

"  Dr.  Kidd  has  fulfilled  his  task,  and  may  claim  the 
gratitude  of  those  who  delight  to  contemplate  the  wis 
aoai  of  Providence  iu  the  works  of  nature,  and  to  die- 
covi  r  the  adaptation  of  the  vegetable  to  the  animal 
world   and  the  subserviency  of  the  whole  to  the  high, 

destinies  of  man." —  U.  S.  Gazette. 

"We  congratulate  Professor  Kidd  on  the  produotioa 
of  ins  work,  and  re;i  .u  the  commendation,  to  which,  u 
a  popular  treatise,  it  is  indisputably  entitled."— Caru 

tian  Remembrancer. 

ASTRONOMY  \.\l>  GENERAL  PHY- 
SICS, considered  with  reference  to  Natural 
Theology.  By  'hi-  Rev.  \Vh.m\m  Whb- 
«  n,i„  .M.  A.,  Fellow  and  Tutor  of  Trinity 
College,  Cambridge ;  being  Pen  HL  of  the 
Bridgewater  Treatises  on  ili<"  Power,  Wis- 
dom, and  Goodness  of  God,  ns  manifested  in 
the  Creation.    In  one  vol  12mo. 

■•  it  is  a  work  of  profound  investigation,  deep  research, 
ilike  ter  i be  calm  Christian  spirit  which  it 


BR1DGEWATER  TREATISES,  &c. 


breathes  throughout,  and  the  sound,  irresistible  argu- 
mentation which  is  stamped  on  every  page." — Daily  In- 
lelligencer. 

••  Let  works  like  that  before  us  be  widely  disseminat- 
ed, and  the  bold,  active,  and  ingenious  enemies  of  reli- 
gion be  met  by  those,  equally  sagacious,  alert  and  reso- 
lute, and  the  most  timid  of  the  many  who  depend  upon 
the  few,  need  not  fear  the  host  that  comes  with  subtle 
steps  to  '  steal  their  faith  away.'  " — JV.  Y.  American. 

"That  the  devoted  spirit  of  the  work  is  most  exem- 
plary, that  we  have  here  and  there  found,  or  fancied, 
room  for,  cavil,  only  peradventure  because  we  have  been 
unable  to  follow  the  author  through  the  prodigious  range 
of  his  philosophical  survey — and  in  a  word,  that  the 
work  before  us  would  have  made  the  reputation  of  an, 
other  man,  and  may  well  maintain  even  that  of  Profes- 
sor W'lie  well." — Metropolitan. 

"  lie  has  succeeded  admirably  in  laying  a  broad  found- 
ation, in  the  light  of  nature,  for  the  reception  of  the 
in  in  glorious  truths  of  revelation  ;  and  has  produced  a 
work  well  calculated  to  dissipate  the  delusions  of  scepti- 
cism and  infidelity,  and  to  confirm  the  believer  in  his 
faith." — Charleston  Courier. 

"  The  known  talents,  and  high  reputation  of  the  au- 
thor, gave  an  earnest  of  excellence,  and  nobly  has  Mr. 
Whewell  redeemed  the  pledge. — In  conclusion,  we  have 
no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  the  present  is  one  of  the 
best  works  of  its  kind,  and  admirably  adapted  to  the  end 


proposed;  as  such,  we  cordially  recommend  it  to  our 
readers." — London  Lit.  Gazette. 
"  It  is  a  work  of  high  character.'*— Boston  Recorder. 

THE  HAND:  ITS  MECHANISM  AND 
VITAL  ENDOWMENTS,  AS  EVINC- 
ING DESIGN.  By  Sir  Charles  Bell, 
K.  G.  H. ;  being  Part  IV.  of  the  Bridge- 
water  Treatises  on  the  Power,  Wisdom,  and 
Goodness  of  God,  as  manifested  in  the  Crea- 
tion.    In  one  vol.  12mo. 

"  In  thi'  present  treatise,  it  is  a  matter  of  the  warmest 
satisfaction  to  find  an  anatomist  of  Sir  Charles  Bell's 
great  eminence,  professing  Ins  contempt  for  the  late 
fashionable  doctrines  of  Materialism  held  by  so  many 
anatomists,  and  now  coming  forward  to  present  tin- 
fruits  of  his  wide  researches  and  great  ability,  in  a  trea- 
li<e  bo  full  of  curious  and  interesting  matter,  expressly 
intended  to  prove,  by  the  examination  of  one  particular 
point,  that  design  which  is  impressed  on  all  parts  of  the 
various  animals  which  in  some  degree  answer  the  pur- 
poses of  the  hand,  and  has  shown  that  the  hand  is  not 
the?  source  of  contrivance,  nor  consequently  of  man's 
superiority,  as  some  materialists  have  maintained.  To 
this  he  has  added  some  very  valuable  remarks,  showing 
the  uses  of  pain,  and  he  has  illustrated  this  work  with 
a  variety  of  the  most  admirable  and  interesting  wood 
cuts." — British  Magazine. 

%*  The  remaining  volumes  are  now  in  a  state  of  progress,  and  will  be  published  without 
any  delay. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


TRAITS   AND  TRADITIONS   OF   POR- 
TUGAL.    By  Miss  Parooe.    2  vols.  12mo. 

"  Miss  Pardoe  is  a  charming  traveller,  enjoying  what 
she  sees,  entering  with  good  taste  into  the  feelings,  and 
with  liveliness  into  the  peculiarities  of  the  people 
among  whom  she  resided,  and  telling  all  that  she  has 
heard  and  seen  in  an  animated  and  picturesque  style. 

"  We  dismiss  these  attractive  volumes  with  warm 
praise  and  congratulations." — Lit.  Gazette. 

"Two  more  entertaining  volumes  than  those  before 
us  could  not  easily  be  found. 

"  Her  work  is  a  series  of  lively  pictures,  always  skilful. 

"Miss  Pardoe  entered  Portugal  determined  to  please 
and  be  pleased;  petty  annoyances  afforded  her  mirth; 
difficulties  roused  her  to  exertion;  clangers,  like  a  sol- 
dier's daughter,  she  scorned  ;  and  severe  toil  was  her 
favorite  pleasure. 

"  We  heartily  recommend  them  to  all  who  love  vigor- 
ous sketches  of  national  manners,  racy  anecdotes,  and 
interesting  traits  of  character." — Atheneeum. 

"  The  work  is  light  and  pleasant  reading,  the  mode  of 
sketching  slight,  but  effective,  the  style  classic,  elegant, 
and  smacking  even  of  enthusiasm." — Spectator. 

THE  PREMIUM,  A  PRESENT  FOR  ALL 

SEASONS :  consisting  of  elegant  selections 
from  British  and  American  writers  of  the 
19th  century.  In  one  small  neat  volume, 
elegantly  bound  in  morocco;  with  engrav- 
ings, by  Ellis,  from  designs  by  Westall  and 
Richter. 
This  work  particularly  commends  itself  to 
school  teachers,  parents,  and  others,  who 
may  be  in  search  of  a  volume  to  present  to 
either  sex. 

"  A  delightful  little  bouquet  of  '  elegant  extracts'  from 
the  best  writers  of  prose  and  poetry  in  Great  Britain 
and  America.  The  Premium  would  be  a  pretty  present 
for  young  ladies,  or  students,  emulous  to  be  noticed  or 
rewarded." — Sentinel. 

"  It  is  a  collection,  or  rather  let  us  say,  a  selection  of 
pieces  in  prose  and  verse,  that  have  real  merit,  with 
reference  both  to  style  and  sentiment.  They  are  choice, 
and  will  be  usefui  to  improve  the  taste  and  strengthen! 


the  morals.  The  author  has  done  a  good  work,  and  those 
who  wish  to  give  the  most  deserving  a  beautiful  and 
useful  '  premium,'  will  find  the  work  to  which  we  refer 
altogether  suitable."—  U.  S.  Gazette. 

"  Carey.  Lea  &.  Rlanchard  have  given  us  a  choice  se- 
lection of  gems,  from  the  best  popular  writers  of  the  day, 
under  the  above  title.  It  contains  articles  from  the  pens 
of  Croley,  Wilson,  Byron,  Mary  Howitt,  Mrs.  Hemans, 
Moore,  Hood,  Dr.  Bird,  Campbell,  Manning,  Irving,  Web- 
ster, Sprague,  Hraining,  Percival,  &c.  The  volume  is  a 
pleasant  one,  and  the  selections  such  as  their  respective 
authors  have  no  need  to  be  ashamed  of."— JV.  Y.  Com. 
Advertiser. 

•  This  is  a  neat  volume,  composed  of  extracts  from  the 
celebrated  writers  of  the  present  century.  The  selections 
are  admirably  made,  and  the  work  is  got  up  with  unu- 
sual elegance.  The  binding  is  a  beautiful  specimen  of 
the  skill  which  has  been  attained  in  this  important  de- 
partment of  book-making.  The  volume  is  one  of  rare 
beauty,  and  constitutes  a  cheap,  elegant,  and  appropriate 
present." — Daily  Intelligencer. 

"  A  very  neat  and  instructive  present  for  youth  at  all 
seasons."— Nat.  Gazette. 

RECOLLECTIONS  OF  MIRABEAU  AND 
THE  TWO  FIRST  LEGISLATIVE  AS- 
SEMBLIES OF  FRANCE.  By  Ettienne 
Dumont,  of  Geneva.     In  1  vol.  8vo. 

"  This  is  a  very  instructive  book,  and  interesting  as  a 
relic  of  a  wise  and  virtuous  man.  It  is  more  lively, 
more  picturesque,  and  more  amusing  than  we  had  prom- 
ised ourselves." — Edinburgh  Review. 

"  CHRISTIAN  YEAR."  By  the  Rev.  John 
Keble,  Professor  of  Poetry  in  the  University 
of  Oxford:  with  an  introduction,  and  occa- 
sional notes,  by  the  Rt.  Rev.  George  W. 
Doane,  Bishop  of  New  Jersey. 

'  The  Christian  Year,  a  collection  of  little  poems." — 
"By  the  Rev.  John  Keble.  a  name  well  known,  and 
justly  dear  to  Oxford."— "  We  scarcely  ever  remember 
to  have  read  so  exquisite  an  invocation  of  religion  in 
poetry." — "We  have  so  high  a  sense  of  its  genuine 
worth,  that  we  hope  this  notice  of  it  may  be  the  means  I 
of  introducing  it  into  manv  families." — British  Critic. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


TOURofaGERM.W  PRINCE,  (Pi-ckler 
Mvskau,)  through  the  Southern  and  West- 
ern parts  of  England,   Walts,  Ireland,  and 
France.     Jn  8vo. 
"It  contains  As  leasi  prejudiced  and  most  acute  no 

ticcs  we  have  read  of  the  habits  and  modes  of  thinking 

of  Englishmen, and  the  merits  and  defects  of  the  country 

and  socielv."— G/ube. 

CONVERSATIONS  WITH  LORD  BY- 
RON ON  THE  SUBJECT  OF  RELI- 
GION.     By  Kennedy,     12mo. 

TRWELS  OF  AN  IRISH  GENTLEMAN, 
IN  SEARCH  OF  A  RELIGION.    With 

Notes  and  Illustrations.     By  tlte  Editor  of 
Captain  Rock's  Memoirs.     In  1  vol.  12mo. 

"Considering  the  circumstances  under  which  these 
volumes  arc  given  to  the  public,  we  consider  their  con- 
tents as  amongst  the  most  interesting  records  Of  Which 
the  assertion  of  the  human  mind  ever  formed  the 
theme." — Monthly  Review. 

"Tin:  masterly  manner  in  which  Mr.  Moore  has 
brought  together  his  arguments,  the  great  extent  and 
minuteness  of  his  researches  into  ancient  author- 
ities, his  intimacy  with  the  customs  and  traditions  of 
Other  tunes,  and  ins  close  and  critical  knowledge  of  the 
ancient  languages,  will  surprise  the  reader  of  his  Trav- 
els, who  may  have  measured  his  talents  by  his  songs." 
— American  Sentinel. 

A  GUIDE  TO  AN  IRI-5IT  GENTLEMAN 

IN  HIS  SEARCH  FOR  A  RELIGION. 

By  the  Rev.  Mortimer  O'Sullivan,  A.  M. 

1  vol.  12mo.     Being  an  answer  to  Moore's 

work. 
THE  ECONOMY  OF  MACHINERY  AND 

MANUFACTURES.  By  Chares Babbage. 

18mo. 

"  Of  the  many  publications  which  have  recently  issued 
from  the  press,  calculated  to  give  a  popular  and  attractive 
form  to  the  results  of  science,  we  look  upon  this  volume 
as  by  far  the  most  valuable.  Mr.  Babbage's  name  if 
well  known  in  connexion  with  the  general  subject  of 
which  he  has  here  undertaken  to  treat.  But  it  will  be 
difficult  for  the  reader  who  does  not  possess  the  volume 
itself,  to  understand  the  happy  style,  the  judgment  and 
tact,  by  means  of  which  the  author  has  contrived  to  lend 
almost  the  charm  of  romance  to  the  apparently  dry  and 
technical  theme  which  he  has  chosen." — Monthly  Rev. 

OUSELEY'S  REMARKS  on  the  STATIS- 
TICS and  POLITICAL  INSTITUTIONS 
of  the  UNITED  STATES. 

"The  author  is  a  man  of  solid  sense,  friendly  to  this 
country,  and  his  remarks  have  the  value  and  interest 
of  which  his  character  and  inquiries  authorized  the  ex- 
pectation."— National  Outette. 

TWO  YEARS  AND  A  HALF  IN  THE 
NAVY,  or,  Journal  of  a  Crvise  in  the 
Mediterranean  and  Levant,  on  board 
the  U.  S.  Frigate  Constellation,  in  tut. 
Years  1829,  1830,  and  1831.  By  E.  C. 
Wines.  In  2  vols.  12mo. 
"The  author  is  a  gentleman  of  classical  education,  n 

ihrewd  observer,  a  lively  writer,  whose  natural  manner 
is  always  agreeable  ;  w  hose  various  mttttet  is  generally 

entertaining  and  instructive;  ami  whose  descriptions 

ar,-  remarkably  graphic.  The  greater  portion  Of  hi     | 

ban  yielded  us  both  profit  ami  pleasure."— JV*o&  Oat. 

THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  SEL- 
BORNE    By  the  late  Rev.  Gilbert  White, 

V  M.,  Fellow  <»f  the  Oriel  College,  with 
additions,  by  S,r  William  Jardine,  Bart, 
P.  lis.  E.  r. !,.  S.  M.W.S.,  Author  of «'  II- 
lustrations  of  Ornithology."     I   vol   l8mo. 

"Whits  Hi  tor]  •!  :-,  ■ih., I,.,- ,  Hi-  mnal  Fascinating 
ptfjec  "i  rui  i  mil  i : . i -  li  h  phili  inpby  thai 

■I  from  tin-  I'l,  »i."      .-llLiinrun. 


The  DUCHESS  of  BERRI  in  LA  VENDEE, 

comprising  a  Narrative  of  her  Adventures, 
with  her  private  papers  and  secret  corres- 
pondence. By  General  Dekmoncoiut,  who 
arrested  her  royal  highness  at  Nantes.  In  1 
vol.  12mo. 

[This  edition  exclusively  contains  the  important  document  and  papers 
which  would  have  led  to  the  seizure  of  the  work  in  France,  had  they  l*en 
published  there.] 

u  Upon  ils  high  interest  we  need  not  enlarge :  (he  perv>nal  id  venture  nf 
the  princess,  her  journeying*  on  foot  and  on  horseback,  in  diwruise  and  in 
her  own  character,  her  mental  and  bodily  Ntft  r  i-o.  ber  hOPM 
pair,  an-  a  romance,  ar-d  seem  to  be!         \o  ■  recall  the 

>  and  the  perils  of  our  own  Charles  Kdward,  wilh  all  the  addi- 
tional interest  which  must  attach  to  the  daring  and  the  suffering  of  a  wo- 
man."— Athtrvtum. 

AN  HISTORICAL  INQUIRY  INTO  THE 
PRODUCTION  AND  CONSUMPTION 
OF  THE  PRECIOUS  METALS,  from 
the  Earliest  Ages,  and  into  the  Influence  of 
their  Increase  or  Diminution  on  the  Prices 
of  Commodities.  By  William  Jacob,  Esq. 
F.  R.  S.     In  8vo. 

"  Mr.  Jacob's  Historical  Inquiry  into  the  Production 
anil  Consumption  of  Hie  Precious  ■Metals,  i-  one  of  the 
most  curious  anil  important  works  which  has  lately  is- 
sued from  the  press." — Spectator. 

"It  was  written  at  the  suggestion  of  the  late  Mr. 
Huskisson.  and  displays  the  fruits  of  much  industry  and 
research,  guided  by  a  Bound  judgment,  and  emta 
more  learning  than  is  usually  brought  to  bear  on  sta- 
tistical or  economical  subjects,  we  recommend  the 
book  lo  general  attention." — Time*.  Sept.  2,  1831. 

NARRATIVE  OF  A  VOYAGE  TO  THE 
PACIFIC  AND  BEHRING'S  STRAIT, 
to  co-operate  with  the  Polar  Expeditions: 
performed  in  his.  Majesty's  ship  Blossom. 
under  the  command  of  Capt.JP.  W.  Beechev, 
R.  N.,  in  the  years  1825,  2G,  27, 28.     8va 

"  The  most  interesting  of  the  whole  series  of  expedi- 
tions to  the  North  Pole."— Quarterly  Review. 

"This  ■  S|  edition  will  be  for  ever  memorable  as  one 
which  has  added  immensely  to  our  knowledge  of  this 
earth  that  we  inhabit." — Blackwood's  Mag. 

"  Captain  Bcechc-y's  work  is  a  lasting  monument  of  his 
own  abilities,  and  an  honor  to  his  country."— Lit.  Gaz. 

A  GENERAL  VIEW  of  the  PROGRESS 
of  ETHICAL  PHILOSOPHY,  chiefly 
during  the  Seventeenth  and  Eighteenth 
Centuries.  By  Sir  James  Mackintosh, 
M.  P.  In  8vo. 
"The  best  ofibpringof  the  pen  of  an  author  who  in 

philosophical  spirit,  knowledge  and  reflection,  richness 

of  moral  sentiment,  and  elegance  of  style,  has  altogethei 
no  superior— perhaps  no  equal— among  ln>  conl 
ries.    Some  time  ago  we  made  copious  extracts  from  the 
beautiful  work.    We  could  not  recommend  thi 

too  earnestly." — National  Gazette. 

HISTORY  OF  ENGLAND,  by  Sib  Jambs 

Mackintosh.    Octavo  edition. 

***  The  first  voiun f  this  edition  will  contain  the 

same  matter  as  On  first  three  volumes  of  the  l8mo 
edition. 

THE  INFIRMITIES  OF  GENIUS,  illus- 
trated by  referring  the  anomalies  in  the 
literary  character,  to  the  habits  and  C 

tutional  peculiarities  of  .Men  of  Genius. 
By  R.  R.  Madden,  Esq.     In  9  vols.  12ma 

"Tim  li  i  v.tv  nlsabla  .mi  intareettui  work,  full  o*  ■»■  »iewi  .wl 

curiam  dadoctio&a ;  !>•■  • nr  arils,  genera]  n-nurk*  on  Mm  >i  Horace  nt  lit. 

tbt  (Scott 
,,  to  particular  liaaanrea. 
•'  ||i>  |  '  Soma,  Con-prr 

Byron,  ,  >  ritten  v,  itli  equal 

It,    IIUC  — 


HTTminn.      llf   incn  i„»|wi  ■  niaiauj    ,  ,   us   uur  wuirr, 

n-li(inui>ubjrru;  j  remarka >•  atonoa ao 

i,ii,I,  thai  «r  eaunot  ,1"  t'lMrr  l!an  cue  a  brial  , 


FAMILY  CABIMTT  ATLAS. 


MISCELLAXEOUS. 


.     STRUCTED    UPON    AN    ORIGINAL    PLAN:     Bt'lllff        0        ,      Q  ■>  '"*"-■«• 

, ,  ■         *      *u_    n  a  P        «J  vols.  OVO. 

a  LointKinion  to  the   t/ncyclopeedia  Amen-;      rriL      ,   .         .  _■    ,      ,    _. 

cana,  Cabinet  Cyclopedia,  Family  Ui^^^S^^VZ^^^J& 

Cabinet  Lillian  ,  QZ.C.  She  has  given,  it  is  true,  no  summary  ol  the  character 

This  Atlas  comprises,  in  a  volume  of  the  Family  Library  of  that  monarch,  but  she  has  devoted  an  extensive 

work  to  a  faithful  relation  of  his  public  works  and  ac- 
tions, and  has  left  it  to  tell  his  story." — AtAenceum. 

Following  up  her  interesting  career  of  a  historical 
writer,  Lucy  Aiken  has  here  produced  one  of  those 
episodes  belonging  to  our  national  annals,  which  add 
to  the  importance  of  (acts  elaborated  from  many  a 
source,  all  the  charms  which  are  usually  found  in  the 
inventions  of  fiction. 

"  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  from  family  and  other  papers 
long  hidden  from  the  public  view,  new  lights  are  ever 
and  anon  shed  upon  the  actors  and  proceedings  of  that 
time :  and  that  without  delving  too  deeply  into  them, 
our  intelligent  author  has  wrought  the  whole  into  one 
of  those  agreeable  narratives  for  which  her  pen  is  so 
justly  popular." — Lit.  Gazette. 


Dearly  ton  Maps  and  Tables,  which  present  equal 
to  Fifty  Thousand  Names  of  Places ;  a  body  of  informs 
tion  three  times  as  extensive  as  that  supplied  by  the 
g  laterality  ni' Quarto  Mioses, 

Opinions  of  the  Public  Journals. 
"This  beautiful  and  most  useful  little  volume ."  Bays 
ill'  Literary  Gazette,  "  is  a  prrli'ct  picture  of  elegance, 
containing  a  vast  sum  of  geographical  information.  A 
more  instructive  little  present,  or  a  gift  better  calculated 
to  be  lung  preserved  and  often  referred  to,  could  not  be 
offered  to  favored  youth  of  either  sex.  Its  cheapness,  we 
must  add,  is  another  recommendation  ;  for.  although  this 
elegant  publication  contains  100  beautiful  engravings 
it  is  issued  at  a  price  that  can  be  no  obstacle  to  its  being 
procured  by  every  parent  and  friend  to  youth." 

'•  This  Atlas  far  surpasses  any  thing  of  the  kind  which 
we  have  seen,  and  is  made  to  suit  the  popular  libraries 
whicii  Dr.  Lardner  and  Mr.  Murray  are  now  sending  into 
every  family  in  the  empire  " — Monthly  Review. 

"  Its  very  ingenious  method  of  arrangement  secures  to 
the  geographical  student  the  information  for  which  hith- 
erto he  has  been  obliged  to  resort  to  works  of  the  largest 
dimensions." — JUhenmum. 

"  This  miniature  and  beautiful  Atlas  is  likely  to  super- 
sede, for  general  purposes,  mips  of  a  more  expensive  and 
elaborate  character.  It  appears  to  us  to  answer  the 
double  purpose  of  exercising  the  attention  while  it  im- 
prints all  that  is  important  in  Geography  on  the  memo- 
ry."— .Mas. 

"The  workmanship  is  among  the  best  of  the  kind  we 
have  ever  witnessed." — Examiner. 

"  It  contains  all  the  information  to  be  derived  from  the 
most  expensive  and  unwieldy  Atlas."— -York  Courant. 

"  By  a  moment's  reference,  the  exact  situation  of  any 
place  may  be  found" — Birming/iam  Journal. 

"  An  excellent  little  work,  engraved  with  a  clearness 
and  correctness  which  is  quite  surprising  :  when  com- 
plete, travellers  will  have  a  system  of  Geography  and  a 
complete  Atlas,  which  they  may  carry  in  their  pocket." — 
Spectator. 

"  This  is  the  most  perfect  gem  of  an  Atlas  which  has 
ever  been  published." — Bristol  Journal. 

"  It  corresponds  in  size  with  those  popular  publications 
to  which  it  will  form  so  useful  an  addition — namely, 
■  The  Family  Library,1  '  The  Classical  Library,'  and 
•  Cabinet  Cyclopaedia." — Court  Journal. 

■■  Nothing  could  be  devised  better  calculated  to  impress 
upon  the  mind  a  knowledge  of  the  general  principles  of 
geography,  than  the  plan  of  this  publication." — The 
Warder. 

'•  It  will  be  a  crying  shame  in  this  age  of  intellect,  if 
this  able  and  beautiful  work  be  not  extensively  patron- 
ized ;  but  we  cannot  doubt  the  success  which  we  feel 
assured  its  intrinsic  merits  must  secure  to  it." — Intelli- 
gencer. 

••  It  is  scarcely  in  the  nature  of  things,  that  a  work  of 
so  much  public  service  should  fail  in  meeting  with  that 
extensive  patronage  which  can  alone  remunerate  the 
projectors." — Leeds  Intelligencer. 

"The  plates  are  beautifully  executed;  and  the  geo- 
graphical student  may  obtain  in  this  little  work,  such  is 
the  excellence  of  its  arrangement,  as  much  information 
as  he  could  gain  by  wading  through  several  books  of  far 
greater  bulk." — Weekly  Dispatch. 

"  We  have  seldom  seen  a  work  so  perfect  in  its  arrange- 
ment, and  so  elegant  in  its  execution." — York  Courant. 

"For  the  accuracy  of  its  delineation,  and  the  extent 
of  the  information  which  it  conveys,  it  stands  without 
a  rival  in  English  topography." — Freeman's  Journal. 

"The  plan  of  this  useful  and  elegant  work  may,  in- 
ur-n.l,  be  called  original.  Tile  style  and  execution  of  the 
Maps  are  of  the  fir6t  character." — Woolmer's  Exeter  and 
Plymouth  Gazette. 

"This  work  is  one  of  the  most  usefil  publications 
whichhasyet  issued  from  thr?  press;  it  will  be  an  unique 
and  hrilliajit  accession  to  the  library,  and  a  very  useful 
work  to  the  student  in  geography."— Heading  Mercury 
and  Oiford  Gazette. 

"  Its  qualifications  will  render  it  one  of  the  most  popu- 
lar, highly  interesting,  and  useful  publications  of  the 
day." — Liverpool  Courier. 

It 


ELEGANT  LIBRARY  EDITIONS 

OF  THE   FOLLOWING   WORKS. 


WORKS  OF  JOANNA  BAILLIE. 

COMPLETE  IN   ONE  VOLUME,  8vO. 

This  edition  corresponds  with  the  Library  Editions 
of  Byron,  Scott,  Moore,  &c. 

"  Miss  Baillie's  Plays  on  the  Passions  have  been 
long  known  as  among  the  best  in  the  language.  Wo 
one  who  reads  them  can  entertain  a  doubt  of  the  char- 
acter of  the  WTiter's  affections.  Such  works  could 
never  have  been  dictated  by  a  cold  heart." — Christian 
Examiner. 

"  We  are  among  the  most  earnest  admirers  of  her 
genius,  her  literary  attainments  and  skill,  her  diction, 
her  success, her  moral  designs,  and  her  personal  worth. 
Some  of  her  tragedies  have  deservedly  passed  into 
the  stock  of  the  principal  British  and  American  thea- 
tres. They  are  express  developments  and  delinea- 
tions of  the  passions,  marked  by  a  deep  insight  into 
human  nature,  great  dramatic  power  of  treatment,  a 
fertile  spirit  of  poetry,  and  the  loftiest  and  purest 
moral  sentiment." — National  Gazette. 


WORKS  OF  HENRY  FIELDING. 

IN  TWO   VOLUMES    8vO.,   WITH    A    PORTRAIT. 


WORKS  OF  TOBIAS  SMOLLETT. 

IN  TWO   VOLUMES    8V0.,   WITH    A   PORTRAIT. 


THE 

HISTORY 

OF  THE 

RISE  AND  PROGRESS 

OF   THE 

UNITED    STATES 

OF 

NORTH  AMERICA. 

EY  JAMES  GRAHAM. 
TWO  VOLS.  8V0. 


TRAVELS,  AXXUATLS,  &c« 


NOTES  on  ITALY,  during  the  years  1829-30. 
By  Rembr\ndt  Pfcjuus.     In  1  vol.  8vo. 

"This  artist  will  gratify  all  reasonable  expectation; 
be  ia  u.-ithcr  ostentatious,  nor  dogmatical,  nor  too  mi- 
nute; he  is  not  a  partisan  nora  carper;  he  admired  with- 
out servility,  be  criticises  without  malevolence;  bis 
frankness  and  good  humor  give  an  agreeable  color  and 
effect  to  all  "bis  I  the  object  of  them ;  his  book 

leaves  ■  useful  gen  iral  idea  of  the'  names,  works,  and  de- 
serts, of  the  great  masters  ;  it  is  an  instructive  and  enter- 
taining index." — Jv"jr.  Gaz. 

"  We  have  made  a  copious  extract  in  preceding  columns 
from  this  interesting  work  of  our  countryman,  Rembrandt 
Pealc,  recently  published.  It  has  received  high  commen: 
datum  from  respectable  sources,  which  is  justified  by  the 
portions  we  have  seen  extracted  '— Commercial  Advertiser. 

"  Mr.  Peale  must  lie  allowed  the  credit  of  candor  and 
entire  freedom  from  affectation  in  the  judgments  he  has 
pass  d  At  the  same  time,  we  should  not  omit  to  notice 
the  variety,  extent,  and  minuteness  of  his  examinations. 
No  church,  gallery,  or  collection,  w  p.s  passed  by,  and  most 
of  the  individual  pictures  are  separately  and  carefully 
noticed."— Am.  Quarterly  Keeieio. 

FRAGMENTS  of  VOYAGES  and  TRAV- 
ELS, including  ANECDOTES  of  NAVAL 
LIFE ;  intended  chiefly  for  the  Use  of  Young 
Persons.  By  Basil  Hall,  Capt.  R.  N.  In 
2  vols,  royal  18mo. 

"  His  volumes  cnri-isf  of  a  melange  of  autobiography, 
naval  anecdotes,  and  sketches  of  a  somewhat  discursive 
nature,  which  we  have  felt  much  pleasure  in  perusing." 

"The  title  page  to  these  volumes  indicates  their  being 
chiefly  intended  for  young  persons,  but  we  are  much  mis- 
taken if  the  race  of  gray-benrds  will  be  among  the  least 
numerous  of  the  readers  of  'midshipmen's  pranks  and 
the  humors  of  the  t;r,:en  room.'  " — Lit.  Gazette. 

A  TOUR  in  AMERICA.  By  Basil  Hall, 
Capt.  R.  N.     In  2  vols.  12mo. 

SKETCHES  OF  CHINA,  with  Illustrations 
from  Original  Drawings.  By  W.  W.  Wood. 
In  1  vol.  12mo. 

"The  residence  of  the   author  in  China,  during  the 

years  1886-7-8  and  9,  has  enabled  him  to  collect  much 

very  curious  information  relative  to  this  singular  people, 

which  he  has  embodied  in  his  work;  and  will  serve  to 

gratify  the  curiosity  of  many  whose  time  or  dispositions 

How  til  -in  tn  seek,  in  the  voluminous  v.  ntnigs  of 

Mt3  and  early  trai  nllere,  the  information  contained 

In  the  present  work     The  recent  discussion  relative  to 

val  of  the  East  India  Company's  Charter,  has 

■    t;  aril  among  ourselves,  the  desire 

en  lie  farther  acquainted  with  the  subjects  of  'theCeles- 

ti-ii  Empire.'  ha<<  been  considerably  a  igmented." 

EXPEDITION  to  tub  SOURCES  of  the 
MISSISSIPPI,  Executed  by  order  of  the 
Governmant  of  the  United  States.  By  Ma- 
jor 8.  II.  Long.  In  2vols.8vo.  With  Plates. 

HISTORICAL,  CHRONOLOGICAL^  GEO- 
GRAPHICAL and  STATISTICAL  AT- 
LAS or  NORTH  and  SOUTH  AMERI- 
CA, A-ii)  the  WEST  INDIES,  with  ail 
their  Divisions  into  States,  Kingdoms-,  &c. 
on  the  Plan  of  I  ind  intended  as  a 

companion  to  Lavoisne's  Atlaa  In  1  vol. 
f 'lit),  containing  p4  Maps.  Third  Edition, 
improved  and  enlarged. 

ATLANTIC  SOUVENIR,  for  the  different 
.  1832,  1831,  &c. 

roltrmei  are  superbly  bound  in  embossed  lea- 
th<-r.  and  ornamented  with  numerous  plates. executed 
In  th-  b  n  style,  bj  lbs  Bi  i  artiste,    Wo  espet 

in ■  i  in  lb  •  •  ideavor to  render  them  worthy  of 
the  purpose  tor  winch  they  were  Intended. 


SALMONIA ;  or,  Days  of  Fly  Fishing :  iy 
Sir  Humphry  Davy. 

"One  of  the  most  delightful  labors  of  leisure  ever 
seen  ;  not  a  few  of  the  most  beautiful  phenomena  of  na- 
ture are  here  lucidly  explained." — Gentleman's  .' 

The  MECHANISM  of  the  HEAVENS:  by 
.Mrs.  Somerville.     In  lHmo. 

'•  Is  it  asking  too  much  if  Mrs.  Soioerville  to  express 
a  hope  that  she  will  allow  this  beautiful  preliminary 
Dissertation  to  be  printed  separately,  tor  the  delight  and 
instruction  of  thousands  of  readers,  young  and  old.  who 
cannot  understand,  or  are  too  indolent  lo  apply  them- 
selves to  the  mure  elaborate  parts  of  the  work  >  If  she 
will  do  this,  we  hereby  promise  to  exert  our  best  endea- 
vors to  make  its  merits  known." — Lit.  Gazette. 

ON  THE  PENITENTIARY  SYSTEM  IN 
THE  UNITED  STATES,  and  its  applica- 
tion in  France.  With  an  Appendix  on  Pe- 
nal Codes,  and  Statistical  Notes.  By  G.  De 
Beaumont  and  A.  De  Toqueville,  Counsel- 
lors in  the  Royal  Court  of  Paris,  and  Mem- 
bers of  the  Historical  Society  of  Pennsylva- 
nia. Translated  from  the  French :  with  sn 
introduction,  notes,  and  additions.  By  Fran- 
cis Leieer.     In  1  vol.  8vo. 

"The  commissioners  appear  to  iiave  pursued  their  re- 
searches with  much  industry  and  intelligence,  and  to 
have  rendered  themselves  thoroughly  acquainted  with 
in  i  subject.'' 

"  The  translation  of  the  work  could  not  have  been 
committed  to  better  hands  than  Mr.  Leiber's,  and  with 
his  notes  and  additions,  it  forms  one  of  the  best  practi- 
cal treatises  extant  on  the  causes  and  prevention  of 
crime.  We  shall  probably  have  occasion  to  recur  again 
to  this  valuable  work." — Salt.  American. 

TALES  AND  CONVERSATIONS,  or.  THE 
NEW  CHILDREN'S  FRIEND.  By  Mrs. 
Markham,  Author  of  the  Histories  of  Eng- 
land and  France.     In  2  small  volumes. 

"  We  conscientiously  recommend  Mrs.  Markham  to 
our  readers." — Lit.  Gazette. 

"These  volumes  contain  excellent  instruction  in  a 
very  agreeable  form." — Spectator. 

"  We  have  two  neat  volumes,  containing  a  scries  of 
Dialogues,  by  Mrs.  Markham,  designed  for  the  improve 
ment  of  young  people  VVe  have  examined  them  care- 
filly,  an  I  ran  Bay  that  we  think  them  well  adapted  to 
the  purpose  of  the  author.  They  are  sufficiently  simple 
to  be  understood  by  boys  and  girls  who  have  just  begun 
to  take  to  their  books;  they  convey  lessons  well  worth 
the  study  of  all  who  are  yet  classed  among  young  peo- 
ple; and  they  are  interesting  enough  to  secure  the  at- 
tention of  those  whom  they  are  designed  to  instruct." — 
Chronic!-. 

"  The  title  of  this  book  is  not  altogether  so  precise  ne 
it  might  be.  Children  are  always  new  ;  but  children — 
new  or  old,  little  or  big— will  Bad  some  very  entertain- 
ing matter  in  these  volumes.  —Baltimore  Gazette. 

THE  BOOK  of  the  SEASONS.  By 
William  Howrrr. 

"Since  the  publication  of  the  Journal  of  a  Naturalist, 
no  work  at  once  so  interesting  and  instructive  as  the 
Book  of  th"  Seasons  baa  been  submitted  to  the  public. 
Whether  in  reference  to  the  utility  of  its  design,  or  the 
grace  and  beauty  of  it«  execution,  it  trill  amply  rw  nt  tiie 
popularity  it  is  certain  to  obtain.    It  is.  Indeed,  cheering 

and   rein  shin-;  to  meet  with  such  a  delightful  volume,  so 

full  of  nature  and  truth— in  winch  reflection  and  experi- 
ence  derive   aid  from  imagination— in  which  we  arc 

taught  much  :  but  in  such  a  manner  an  to  make  it  doubt 

lui  whether  we  have  n«'t  been  amusJnf,  ourselves  all  the 

tin.   w.-  have  been  i  'I  '■       Monthly  Magazine. 

"The  lUh.k  <'f  the  Seasons  is  a  delightful  book,  and 
reOOSBflMttded  to  all  lovers  of  nature  "-- Blackwood's  Mag 


SCOTT,  COOPER,  A2TD  WASHINGTON  ZRVH-7G-. 


by  sir  v*  alter  scott. 


COUNT  ROBERT  OF  PARIS,  a  Tale  of 
the  Lower  Empire.  By  the  Author  of  Wa- 
verley.     In  3  vols. 

"The  reader  "ill  at  once  perceive  that  the  subject, 
;h>'  characters  anil  the  scenes  of  action,  could  not  have 
!>".■;;  better  selected  t'i>r  the  display  of  the  various  and  un- 
equalled powers  of  the  author.  All  that  is  glorious  in  aits 
and  splendid  in  arms— the  glitter  of  armor,  the  pomp  of 
war,  and  the  splendor  of  chivalry— the  gorgeous  scenery 
of  the  posphorus— the  nuns  of  Byzantium — the  magnifi- 
cence of  the  Grecian  capital,  and  the  richness  and  volup- 
tuousness of  the  imperial  court,  will  rise  before  the  reader 
in  a  succession  of  beautiful  ami  dazzling  images." — Com- 
menial.  Mvertisi  r. 

AUTOBIOGRAPHY  OF  SIR  WALTER 
SCOTT.     With  a  Portrait. 

'■  This  is  a  delightful  volume,  which  cannot  fail  to  sat- 
isfy every  reader,  and  of  which  the  contents  ought  to  be 
known  to  all  those  who  would  be  deemed  conversant  with 
the  literature  of  our  era." — National  Gazette. 

HISTORY  OF  SCOTLAND.     In  2  vols. 

"  The  History  of  Scotland,  by  Sir  Waiter  Scott,  we  do 
not  hesitate  to  declare,  will  b.\  if  possible,  more  exten- 
sively read,  than  the  most  popular  work  of  fiction,  by  the 
same  prolific  author,  and  for  this  obvious  reason  :  it  com- 
bines much  of  the  brilliant  coloring  of  the  Jvanhoe  |  ic- 
tures  of  bygone  manners,  and  ail  the  graceful  facility  of 
style  and  picturesqueness  of  description  of  his  other 
charming  romances,  with  a  minute  fidelity  to  the  facts 
of  history,  and  a  searching  scrutiny  into  their  authenti- 
city and  relative  value,  which  might  pat  to  the  blush 
Sir.  Hume  and  other  professed  historians.  Such  is  the 
magic  charm  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  pen.  it  has  only  to 
touch  the  simplest  incident  of  every-day  life,  and  it  starts 
up  invested  with  all  the  interest  of  a  Ecene  of  romance  ; 
and  yet  siich  is  his  fidelity  to  the  text  of  nature,  that  the 
knights,  and  serfs,  and  collared  fools  with  whom  his  in- 
ventive genius  has  peopled  so  many  volumes,  are  regarded 
by  ns  as  not  mere  creations  of  fancy,  but  as  real  flesh  and 
blood  existences,  with  all  the  virtues,  fillings  and  errois 
of  commonplace  humanity." — Lit.  Gazs'lr. 

TALES  of  a  GRANDFATHER  being  a 
series  from  French  History.  By  the  Author 
of  Waverley. 


BY  MR.  COOPER. 


i  THE  BRAVO.     By  the  Author  of  the  Spy, 
Pilot,  &c.  In  2  vols. 

|  The  WATER- WITCH,  or  the  SKIMMER 

of  the  SEAS.     In  2  vols. 
THE  HEADSMAN,  or  the  ABBEYE  DES 
VIGNERONS.     2  vols.  12mo. 

THE  HEIDENMAUER;  or,  The  Benedic- 
tines.    2  vols. 

New  Editions  of  the  following  Works  by  the 
same  Author. 

NOTIONS  OF  THE  AP4ERICANS,  by  a 
Travelling  Bachelor,  2  vols.  12mo. 

The  WEPT  OF  WISH-TON-WISH,  2  vols. 
12mo. 

The  RED  ROVER,  2  vols.  12mo. 

The  SPY,  2  vols.  12mo. 

The  PIONEERS,  2  vols.  12mo. 

The  PILOT,  a  Tale  of  the  Sea,  2  vols.  12mo. 


LIONEL  LINCOLN,  or  the  LEAGUER  of 

BOSTON,  2  vols. 
The   LAST  of  the  MOHICANS,   2  vols. 

12mo. 
The  PRAIRIE,  2  vols.  12mo. 


BY  WASHINGTON  IRVING. 


VOYAGES    and    ADVENTURES   of  the 
COMPANIONS    of    COLUMBUS.      By 
Washington   Irving,   Author  of  the   Life 
of  Columbus,  &c.  1  vol.  8vo. 
"Of  the  main  work  we  may  repeat  that  it  possesses 
the  value  of  important  history  and  the  magnetism  of  ro- 
mantic adventure.    It  sustains  in  every  respect  the  repu- 
tation  of  Irving."   "  We  may  hope  that  the  gifted  author 
will  treat  in  like  manner  the  enterprises  and  exploits  o' 
Pizarro  and  Cortes  ;  and  thus  complete  a  series  of  elegant 
recitals,  which  will  contribute  to  the  especial  gratifica- 
tion of  Americans,  and  form  an  imperishable  fund  of 
.delightful  instruction  for  all  ages  and  countries."— „Yat. 
I  Gazette. 

j  "  As  lie  leads  us  from  one  savage  tribe  to  another,  as  I 
he  paints  successive  scenes  of  heroism,  perseverance  and 
I  self  denial,  as  he  wanders  among  the  magnificent  scenes 
lof  nature,  as  he  relates  with  scrupulous  fidelity  the 
errors,  and  the  crimes,  even  of  these  whose  lives  are  for 
the  most  part  marked  with  traits  to  command  admira- 
tion, and  perhaps  esteem — everywhere  we  find  him  the 
same  undeviating,  but  beautiful  moralist,  gathering  from 
every  incident  some  lesson  to  present  in  striking  lan- 
guage to  the  reason  and  the  heart."— Am.  Quarterly  Re- 
view. 

"  This  is  a  delightful  volume;  for  the  preface  truly  says 
that  the  expeditions  narrated  and  springing  out  of  the 
voyages  of  Columbus  may  be  compared  with  attempts  of 
adventurous  knijhts  errant  to  achieve  the  enterprise  left 
unfinished  by  some  illustrious  predecessors  Washington 
Irving's  name  is  a  pledge  how  well  their  stories  will  be 
told:  and  we  only  regret  that  we  must  of  necessity  defer 
our  extracts  for  a  week.*  —  London  Lit.  Gazette. 


A  CHRONICLE  of  the  CONQUEST  of 
GRENADA.  By  'Washington  Irving, 
Esq.     In  2  vols. 

"On  the  whole,  this  work  will  sustain  the  high  fame 
of  Washington  Irving.  It  fills  a  blank  in  the  historical 
library  which  ought  not  to  have  remained  so  long  a 
blank.  The  lauguase  throughout  is  at  once  chaste  and 
animated  ;  and  the  narrative  may  be  said,  like  Spenser's 
I  Fairy  Queen,  to  present  one  long  gallery  of  splendid  pic- 
tures.!'— Land.  Lit.  Gazette. 

!  THE  ALHAMBRA ;  a  series  of  Trues  and 

Sketches  of  the  Moors  and  Spaniards.     By 

the  Author  of  the  Sketch-Book,  &c.    2  vols. 

12mo. 

j      "  Mr.  Irving  has  faiily  trusted  himself  '  to  the  golden 

'  shores  of  old  romance,'  and  yielded   to  all  their  influ- 

'  ences.     He  has  oarried  us  into  a  world  of  marble  foun- 

i  tains,  moonlight,  arabesques,  and  perfumes.   We  do  not 

|  know  whether  reform  and  retrenchment  have  left  any 

t  imagination  in  the  world,  but  this  we   know,  that  if 

there  be  any  fantasies  yet  slumbering  deep  within  the 

souls,  the  tales  of  the  Alhambra  must  awaken  them." — 

London  Literary  Gazette. 

By  the  same  Author. 
The  SKETCH  BOOK,  2  vols.  12mo. 

KNICKERBOCKER'S  mSTORY  of  NEW 
YORK,  revised  and  corrected.     2  vols. 

BRACEBRIDGE  HALL,  or  the  HUMOR- 
ISTS, 2  vols.  12mo. 

TALES  of  a  TRAVELLER,  2  vols.  12mo. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


A.  MEMOIR  OP  SEBASTIAX  CABOT,  with 
a  Review-  of  the  History  of  Maritime  Dis- 
covery. Illustrated  by  Documents  from 
the  Rolls,  now  first  published. 

"  Put  forth  in  the  nmst  unpretending  manner,  anil 
without  a  name,  this  work  i-  of  paramount  importance 
to  the  subjects  of  which  it  treats." — Literary  Gazette. 
"The  author  has  corrected  many  grave  errors,  and  in 
general  given  us  a  clearer  insight  into  transactions  of 
considerable  national  interest."— lb.  "  Will  it  not,"  says 
the  author,  with  just  astonishment,  "be  deemed  almost 
incredible,  that  the  very  instrument  in  the  Records  of 
England,  which  recites  the  Great  Discovery,  and  plainly 
contemplates  a  scheme  of  Colonization,  should,  up  to 
tins  moment,  have  been  treated  by  her  own  writers  as 
that  which  firsl  gave  permission  to  go  forth  and  explore  ?" 
—lb.  "  We  must  return  to  investigate  several  collateral 
mailers  which  we  think  deserving  of  more  space  than  we 
can  this  week  bestow.  .Meanwhile  we  recommend  the 
work  as  one  of  great  value  and  interest." — lb. 

"  The  general  reader,  as  well  as  the  navigator  and  the 
curious,  will  derive  pleasure  and  information  from  this 
well-written   production." — Courier. 

'•A  specimen  of  honest  inquiry.  It  is  quite  frightful  to 
think  of  tiie  number  of  the  inaccuracies  it  exposes:  we 
shall  cease  to  have  confidence  in  books."  "The  investi- 
gation of  truth  is  not  the  fashion  of  these  times.  But 
every  sincere  inquirer  after  historical  accuracy  ought  to 
pun  Ikisc  the  book  as  a  curiosity:  more  false  assertions 
and  inaccurate  statements  were  never  exposed  in  the 
same  compass.  It  has  given  us  a  lesson  we  shall  never 
forget,  and  hope  to  profit  by."— Spectator. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  NORTHMEN,  OR  NOR- 
MANS AND  DANES  ;  from  the  earliest 
times  to  the  Conquest  of  England  by 
William  of  Normandy.  By  Henry  AVhca- 
ton,  Member  of  the  Scandinavian  and 
Icelandic  Literary  Societies  of  Copenha- 
gen. 

This  work  embraces  the  great  leading  features  of  Scan- 
dina\ian  history,  commencing  with  the  leroic  age,  and 
advancing  from  the  earliest  dawn  of  civilization  to  the 
introduction  of  Christianity  into  the  North — its  long  and 
bloody  strife  wilh  Paganisui— the  discovery  and  coloniza- 
tion of  Iceland,  Greenland,  and  North  America,  by  the 
Norwegian  navigators,  before  the  time  of  Columbus— the 
military  and  maritime  expeditions  of  the  Northmen— 
their  early  intercourse  of  commerce  and  war  wilh  Con- 
stantinople and  the  Eastern  empire — the  establishment 
of  a  Norman  state  in  France,  under  Hollo,  and  the  sub- 
jugation of  England,  first  by  the  Danes,  under  Canute 
the  Great,  and  subsequently  by  the  Normans,  under 
Duke  William,  the  founder  of  the  English  monarchy. 
It  also  contains  an  account  of  the  mythology  and  litera 
lure  of  the  ancient  North— the  Icelandic  language  pre 
vailing  all  over  the  Scandinavian  countries  until  the 
formation  of  the  present  living  tongues  of  Sweden  and 
Denmark— an  analysis  of  the  Eddas,  Saxas.  and  various 
chronicles  and  songs  relating  to  the  Northern  deities  ami 
heroat,  constituting  the  original  materials  from  ulnrli 
the  work  has  been  principally  composed.  It  is  intended 
to  illustrate  the  history  of  France  and  England  during 
the  middle  ages,  and  at  tlte  same  time  to  serve  as  an 
introduction  to  Ihe  modern  history  of  Denmark,  Norway, 
and  Sweden. 


THE  PRINCIPLES  Oh  CHRISTIAN  PHILOSO- 
PHY. Containing:  the  Doctrine*.  Duties,  Admoni- 
tions, and  Convolutions,  of  the  Ckristinn    Religion. 

Bj  Jon*  Burns,  i\1.  [>..  K.  It.  S.    From  the   ith 
London  edition.    In  1  vol.  lino. 

"  Thr  julbnrluiiiinfiiUc'!  Ihe  principle*  of  1'britfi.inity  with  much  candor 
awl  C"rrwln«iA  ;  Lr  ha,  explained  mir  jHranr.al  *a'l  M'.itive  Jutirt  io  a  )>Mf 
and  philoiiiphic-u  n.annrr  ;  and,  I  j  Ihr  rw  and  urunVctrd  umplieity  of  hii 
■tylr,   h»t  m^irrt-l  g  „  well  a,  baft)  uclivc  —  Hn  rrmirki 

f>B  brrrthrrlj  lo.r,  hi  thai  pan  ,,f  hii  work  emuracn*  ihe  irlalon  dutici, 
pom—  mini.  •  rraMUtft 

"The  t*«*a  baf  *  I   -h  rapotaltoa  inline!  tlritaio.and  thrrr  it  no  brint; 

capable  <>l  I,  \u<l  upon  **hnrti  it  u  not  incumbent, 

.fh',  IDd  bstJow  ■  ,,      ,  wl.i.n  ire  l.crr  dwKOMed. 

"■Sen    ■  ■    nhatahouU  b*4*na»4th*akib>ia 

Irreat  of  life,  tad  CtMM  V '»'  '  "  l*>-^-  it  bj  ulterior  Jejtmiea,  u  ol  iLCatj- 
i  ruble  value.1' — Nat.  teAtefli. 


PRIVATE  MEMOIRS  of  NAPOLEON  BO- 
NAPARTE, from  the  French  of  M.  Fauve- 
let  de  Boxrrienne,  Private  Secretary  to 
the  Emperor. 

The  peculiar  advantages  of  position  in  regard  to 
his  present  subject,  solely  enjoyed  by  M.  de  Bourri- 
enne,  his  literary  areoinp'lishnie'nts  arid  moral  quali- 
fications, have  already  obtained  ibr  these  memoirs  the 
first  rank  in  contemporary  and  authentic  history.  In 
France,  where  they  had  been  ibr  years  expected  with 
anxiety,  and  where,  since  the  revolution,  no  work 
connected  with  that  |>eriod  or  its  consequent  events 
has  created  so  great  a  sensation,  the  volumes  of  Bour- 
rienne  have,  from  the  firsl,  been  accepted  as  the  only 
trustworthy  exhibition  of  the  private  life  and  political 
principles  of  Napoleon. 

"  We  know  from  the  best  political  authority  now  liv- 
ing in  England,  that  the  writer's  accounts  are  perfectly 
corroborated  by  facts."— Lit.  Ga:. 

ANNALS  of  the  PENINSULAR  CAM- 
PAIGNS. By  the  Author  of  Cyril  Thorn- 
ton. In  3  vols.  12mo.  with  plates. 

The  HISTORY  OF  LOUISIANA,  particu- 
larly of  the  Cession  of  that  Colony  to  the 
United  States  of  North  America;  with  an 
Introductory  Essay  on  the  Constitution  and 
Government  of  the  United  States,  by  M.  dk 
Marbois,  Peer  of  France,  translated  from 
the  French  by  an  American  Citizen.  In 
1  vol.  8vo. 

The  PERSIAN  ADVENTURER.  By  the 
Author  of  the  Kuzzilbash.  In  2  vols.  i2mo. 

"  It  is  full  of  glowing  descriptions  of  Eastern  life."' — 
Courier. 

MORALS  of  PLEASURE,  Illustrated  by 
Stories  designed  for  Young  Persons,  in  1 
vol.  12mo. 

"The  style  of  the  stories  is  no  less  remarkable  fur  ils 
ease  and  gracefulness,  than  for  the  delicacy  of  its  humor, 
and  its  beautiful  ami  ai  times  affecting  simplicity.  A 
lady  must  have  written  it— for  it  is  from  the  bosom  of 
woman  alone,  that  such  tenderness  of  feeling  n rid  such 
delicacy  of  sentiment— such  sweet  lessons  of  morality— 
such  deep  and  pnre  streams  of  virtue  ami  piety,  eush 
forth  to  cleanse  the  juvenile  mind  from  the  grosser  irupu 
rities  of  our  nature,  and  prepare  the  youne  for  lives  of 
usefulness  hero,  and  happiness  hereafter."— .V.  I.  On*. 
.Idecrtizcr. 

CLARENCE ;  a  Tale  of  our  own  Times.  By 
the  Author  of  Redwood,  Hope  1-eni.ii:.  &c 
In  2  vols. 

AMERICAN  QUARTERLY  REVIEW,  pub- 
lished on  the  first  of  March,  June,  >'< 
ber,  and  December.     Price  $f>  per  aim. 

\  few  complete  Ir-Yts  of  the  Work  are  still  for 
sale. 

CONSIDERATIONS  O.N  THE  CURREN- 
CY AND  BANKING  SYSTEM  OF  THE 
UNITED  STATES.     By  Albert  Cm.ia 

TflS. 

THE  SUMMER  PETE.  A  Poem,  with  Songs. 

ByTHOafAl   MoOM     EatJ.,   Author  of  Irish  Molo- 
8u 


CABINET    LIBRARY. 


No.  1.— NARRATIVE  OF  THE  LATE 
WAR  IN  GERMANY  AND  FRANCE. 
By  the  Marquess  of  Londonderry.  With 
a  Map. 

No.  2.— JOURNAL  of  a  NATURALIST, 
with  plates. 

No.  3.— AUTOBIOGRAPHY  of  SIR  WAL- 
TER SCOTT.    With  a  portrait. 

No.  4.— MEMOIRS  of  SIR  WALTER  RA- 
LEGH. By  Mrs.  A.  T.  Thomson.  Willi  a 
portrait 

No.  5.— LIFE  of  BELISARIUS.  By  Lord 
Mahon. 

MILITARY  MEMOIRS  OF  THE  DUKE 
OF  WELLINGTON.      By  Capt.  Moyle 
Sherer,   Author  of   Recollections  of  the 
Peninsula.     In  2  vols.  18mo. 
"The  tone  of  feeling  and  reflection  which  per- 
vades the  work  is  in  the  characteristic  mood  of  the  , 
writer,  considerate,  ardent,  and  chivalrous;  his  prin- 
ciples, as  might  be  expected,  are  sound  and  independ- 
ent, and  his  language  is  frequently  rich  in  those  beau- 
ties which  distinguish  his  previous  writings.    To  us 
it  appears  a  work  which  will  not  discredit  its  illustri- 
ous subject." — United  Service  Journal. 

GLEANINGS  in   NATURAL    HISTORY, 

being-  a  Companion  to  the  Journal  of  a  Nat- 
uralist 

"  The  Cabinet  Library  bids  fair  to  be  a  series  of  great 
value,  and  is  recommended  to  public  and  private  libraries, 
to  professional  men,  and  miscellaneous  readers  generally. 
It  is  beautifully  printed,  and  furnished  at  a  price  which 
will  place  it  within  the  reach  of  all  classes  of  society." — 
American  Traveller. 

"  The  series  of  instructive,  and,  in  their  original  form, 
expensive  works,  which  these  enterprising  publishers  are 
now  issuing  under  the  title  of  the  "  Cabinet  Library," 
is  a  fountain  of  useful,  and  almost  universal  ,'rnowledge  ; 
the  advantages  of  which,  in  forming  the  opinions,  tastes, 
and  manners  of  that  portion  of  society,  to  which  this 
varied  information  is  yet  new,  cannot  be  too  highly 
estimated." — Nutional  Journal. 

"  Messrs.  Carey  and  Lea  have  commenced  a  series  of 
publications  under  the  above  title,  which  are  to  appear 
monthly,  and  which  seem  likely,  from  the  specimen  before 
us,  to  acquire  a  high  degree  of  popularity,  and  to  alibrd 
a  mass  of  various  "information  and  rich  entertainment, 
at  once  eminently  useful  and  strongly  attractive.  The 
mechanical  execution  is  fine,  the  paper  and  typography 
excellent." — Nashville  Banner. 


MEMOIRS  OP  THE  LIFE  OF  SIR  WAL- 
TER RALEGH,  with  some  Account  of  the 
Period  in  which  he  lived.  By  MRS.  A.  T. 
THOMSON.    With  a  Portrait. 

"-Such  is  the  outline  of  a  life,  which,  in  Mrs.  Thorn- 
son's  hands,  is  a  mine  of  interest;  from  the  first  page  to 
the  last  the  attention  is  roused  and  sustained,  and  \\  bile 
we  approve  the  manner,  we  still  more  applaud  the  spirit 
in  which  it  is  executed."— Literary  Gazette. 


JOURNAL  OF  A  NATURALIST.    With 
Plates. 

Plants,  trees,  and  stones  we  note ; 

Birds,  insects,  beasts,  and  rural  things. 
"We  again  most  strongly  recommend  this  little  unpre- 
tending volume  to  the  attention  of  every  lover  of  nature, 


and  more  particularly  of  our  country  readers.  It  will 
induce  them,  we  are  sure,  to  examine  more  closely  than 
they  have  been  accustomed  to  do,  into  the  objects  of  ani- 
mated nature,  and  such  examination  will  prove  one  of 
the  most  innocent,  and  the  most  satisfactory  sources  of 
•.'ratification  and  amusement.  It  is  a  book  that  ought 
to  find  its  way  into  every  rural  drawing-room  in  the 
kingdom,  and  one  that  may  safely  be  placed  in  every 
lady's  boudoir,  be  her  rank  and  station  in  life  what  they 
may." — Quarterly  Review,  No.  LXXVIII. 

"We  think  that  there  are  few  readers  who  will  not 
be  delighted  (we  are  certain  all  will  be  instructed)  by  the 
'Journal  of  a  Naturalist.'  "—Monthly  Review. 

"This  is  a  most  delightful  book  on  the  most  delightful 
of  rill  Studies.  We  are  acquainted  with  no  previous 
work  which  hears  any  resemblance  to  this,  except 
'  White's  History  of  Selborne,'  the  most  fascinating  piece 
of  rural  writing'  anil  sound  English  philosophy  that  ever 
issued  from  the  press." — flthenmum. 

"The  author  of  the  volume  now  before  us,  has  pro- 
duced one  of  the  most  charming  volumes  we  remember 
to  have  seen  for  a  long  time." — New  Monthly  Magazine, 
June,  1829. 

"  A  delightful  volume — perhaps  the  most  so — nor  less 
instructive  and  amusing — given  to  Natural  History 
since  White's  Selborne." — Blackwood's  Magazine. 

"  The  Journal  of  a  Naturalist,  being  the  second  num- 
ber of  Carey  and  Lea's  beautiful  edition  of  the  Cabinet 
Library,  is  the  best  treatise  on  subjects  connected  with 
this  train  of  thought,  that  we  have  for  a  long  time  pe 
rused,  and  we  are  not  at  all  surprised  that  it  should  have 
received  so  high  and  flattering  encomiums  from  the  Eng- 
lish press  generally." — Boston  Traveller. 

"Furnishing  an  interesting  and  familiar  account  of 
the  various  objects  of  animated  nature,  but  calculated 
to  afford  both  instruction  and  entertainment."— Nask- 
ville  Banner. 

"One  of  the  most  agreeable  works  of  its  kind  in  the 
language." — Courier  de  la  Louisiane. 

"  It  abounds  with  numerous  and  curious  facts,  pleas- 
ing illustrations  of  the  secret  operations  and  economy  of 
nature,  and  satisfactory  displays  of  the  power,  wisdom 
and  goodness,  of  the  great  Creator." — Philad.  Album. 


THE  MARQUESS  OF  LONDONDERRY'S 
NARRATIVE  OF  THE  LATE  "WAR  IN 
GERMANY  AND  FRANCE.    With  a  Map, 

"No  history  of  the  events  to  which  it  relates  can  be 
correct  without  reference  to  its  statements." — Literary 
Gazette. 

"The  events  detailed  in  this  volume  cannot  fail  to 
excite  an  intense  interest." — Dublin  Literary  Gazette. 

"The  only  connected  and  well  authenticated  account 
we  nave  of  the  spirit-stirring  scenes  which  preceded  the 
fall  of  Napoleon.  It  introduces  us  into  the  cabinets  and 
presence  of  the  allied  monarchs.  We  observe  the  secret 
policv  of  each  individual :  we  see  the  course  pursued  by 
the  wily  Bernadotte,  the  temporizing  Metternich,  anil 
the  ambitious  Alexander.  The  work  deserves  a  place  in 
every  historical  library."— Globe. 

"We  hail  with  pleasure  the  appearance  of  the  first 
volume  of  the  Cabinet  Library."  "  The  author  had  sin- 
gular facilities  for  obtaining  the  materials  of  his  work, 
and  he  has  introduced  us  to  the  movements  and  measures 
of  cabinets  which  have  hitherto  been  hidden  from  the 
world." — American  Traveller. 

"It  maybe  regarded  as  the  most  authentic  of  all  the 
publications  which  profess  to  detail  the  events  of  the 
important  campaigns,  terminating  with  that  which  se- 
cured the  capture  of  the  French  metropolis."— Nat.  Jour- 
nal. 

"  It  is  in  fact  the  only  authentic  account  of  the  memo- 
rable events  to  which  it  refers." — Nashville  Banner. 


"  The  work  deserves  a  place  in  every  library. 
dclphia  Album. 


-Phila- 


CLASSICAL  LITERATURE. 


L\TRODUCTION  to  the  STUDY  of  the 
GREEK  CLASSIC  POETS,  for  the  use  of 
Young  Persons  at  School  or  College. 

Contents. — General  Introduction  ;  Ho- 
meric Questions ;  Life  of  Homer;  Iliad; 
Odyssey;  Margites;  Batrachomyomachia ; 
1  lymns ;  Hesiod.  By  Henry  Nelson  Cole- 
ridge. 

"  We  have  been  highly  pleased  with  this  little,  volume. 
This  w  ork  supplies  a  want  which  we  have  often  painfully 
lilt,  anil  affords  a  manual  which  we  should  gladly  see 
placed  in  the  hands  of  every  embryo  undergraduate. 
HV  look  forward  to  the  next  portion  of  this  work  with 
vi  ry  eager  and  impatient  expectation." — British  Critic. 

■  Mr.  Coleridge's  work  not  only  deserves  the  praise  of 
clear,  eloquent  and  scholar  like  exposition  of  the  prelimi- 
nary matter,  which  is  necessary  in  order  to  understand 
and  enter  into  the  character  of  the  great  Poet  of  anti- 
quity ;  but  it  has  likewise  the  more  rare  merit  of  being 
admirably  adapted  for  its  acknowledged  purpose.  It  is 
written  in  thai  fresh  and  ardent  spirit,  which  to  the  con- 
genial mind  of  youth,  will  convey  instruction  in  the 
most  effective  manner,  by  awakening  the  desire  of  it; 
and  by  enlisting  the  lively  and  buoyant  feelings  in  the 
cause  of  useful  and  improving  study;  while,  by  its  preg- 
nant hrevity,  it  is  more  likely  to  stimulate  than  to  super- 
sede more  profound  and  extensive  research.  If  then,  as  it 
is  avowedly  intended  for  the.  use  of  the  younger  readers 
of  Homer,  and,  as  it  is  ini|K>ssible  not  to  discover,  with  a 
more  particular  view  to  the  g»eat  school  to  which  the  au- 
thor owes  his  education,  we  shall  be  much  mistaken  if  it 
does  not  become  as  popular  as  it  will  be  useful  in  that 
celebrated  establishment." — Quarterly  Review. 

"  We  sincerely  hope  that  Mr.  Coleridge  will  favor  us 
with  a  continuation  of  his  work,  which  he  promises." — 
Gent.  Mag. 

"  The  author  of  this  elegant  volume  has  collected  a  vast 
mass  of  valuable  information.  To  the  higher  classes  of 
the  public  schools,  and  young  men  of  universities,  this 
volume  will  be  especially  valuable;  as  it  will  afford  an 
agreeable  relief  of  light  reading  to  more  grave  studies,  at 
once  instructive  and  entertaining." — Wesleyan  Methodist 
Magazine. 

ATLAS  OF  ANCIENT  GEOGRAPHY,  con- 
sisting of  21  Colored  Maps,  with  a  complete 
Accentuated  Index.  By  Samuel  Butler, 
D.  D.,  F.  R.  S.  &c.  Archdeacon  of  Derby. 

By  the  same  Author. 

GEOGRAPHIA  CLASSICA:  a  Sketch  of 
Ancient  Geography,  for  the  Use  of  Schools. 
In  8vo. 

Extract  of  a  Letter  from  Professor  Stuart  of 
And  over. 

"  I  have  used  Butler's  Atlas  Classics  for  12  or  11  Rears 
and  prefer  it  on  the  score  of  convenience  and  correctness 
to  any  alias  within  the  compass  of  my  knowledge.  It 
i  i  \eienilv  a  work  of  much  care  and  taste,  and  most 
happily  adapted  in  classical  readers  and  indeed  all  others, 
Who  consult  the  history  of  past  iges.  I  have  long  cherish- 
ed s  -tinng  desire  to  seethe  woik  brought  forward  in  this 
Country,  and   1   am  exceeding!}   gratified  that  you   have 

carried  through  this  undertaking.   The  beautiful  manner 

in  w he  ii  the  specimen  is  executed  thai  you  have  sent  me 

ii  credit  to  engraven  arid  publishers,    it  cannot 

'"'  U t  Mhooli  and  colleges  will  fail  to  adopt  tins 

work    and  bring  it  Into  very  general  circulation.    1  know 
of  none  Which  in  all  res|iects  would  supply  lis  place  " 

'The  abridged  but  classical  and  excellent  work  of  But- 
»  r    •"  X|"  isnt  Geography,  winch  you  are  printing  as  an 

accompaniment  to  the  maps,  I  consider  i  of  the  mosl 

ettractive  work    oi  n„-  kind,  especially  tor  young  persons 

studying  thi  els  lies,  thai  has ie  snder  my  notiee.    I 

wish  you  the  most  ample  luccess  in  these  highly  useful 
publication 


MECHANICS,  MANUFACTURES,  &c. 


A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  on  RAIL- 
ROADS, and  INTERIOR  COMMUNI- 
CATION   in    GENERAL— containing  an 

.  account  of  the  performances  of  the  different 
Locomotive  Engines  at,  and  subsequent  to, 
the  Liverpool  Contest ;  upwards  of  two 
hundred  and  sixty  Experiments  with  Tables 
of  the  comparative  value  of  Canals  and  Rail- 
roads, and  the  power  of  the  present  Locomo- 
tive Engines.  By  Nicholas  Wood,  Colliery 
Viewer,  Member  of  the  Institution  of  Civil 
Engineers,  &c.  Svo.    with  plates. 

"  In  this,  the  able  author  has  brought  up  his  treatise  to 
the  date  of  the  latest  improvements  in  this  nationally 
important  plan.  We  consider  the  volume  to  be  one  of 
great  general  interest." — Lit.  Oa:. 

"We  must,  injustice,  refer  the  reader  to  the  work 
itself,  strongly  assuring  him  that,  whether  he  be  a  in. m  it' 
science,  or  one  totally  unacquainted  with  its  technical 
difficulties,  he  will  here  receive  instruction  and  pleasure, 
in  a  degree  which  we  have  seldom  seen  united  before." — 
Monthly  Rev. 

REPORTS  on  LOCOMOTIVE  and  FIXED 
ENGINES.  By  J.  Stephenson  and  J. 
Walker,  Civil  Engineers.  With  an  Ac- 
count of  the  Liverpool  and  Manchester  Rail- 
road, by  H.  Booth.     In  Svo.  with  plates. 

MILLWRIGHT  and  MILLER'S  GUIDE 
By  Oliver  Evans.  New  Edition,  with  ad- 
ditions and  corrections,  by  the  Professor  of 
Mechanics  in  the  Franklin  Institute  of 
Pennsylvania,  and  a  description  of  an  im- 
proved Merchant  Flour- .Mill,  with  engrav- 
ings, by  C.  &.  O.  Evans,  Engineers. 

THE  NATURE  and  PROPERTIES  of  the 
SUGAR  CANE,  with  Practical  Directions 
for  its  Culture,  and  the  Manufacture  of  its 
various  Products;  detailing  the  improved 
Methods  of  Extracting,  Boiling,  Refining, 
and  Distilling ;  also  Descriptions  of  the  Best 
Machinery,  and  useful  Directions  for  the 
general  Management  of  Estates.  By  George 
Richardson  Porter. 

"This  volume  contains  a  valuable  mass  of  scientific 
and  practical  information,  and  is.  indeed,  a  compendium 
of  everything  interesting  relative  to  colonial  agriculture 
and  manufacture.'' — Intelligencer. 

"We  can  altogether  recommend  this  volume  as  a  most 
valuable  addition  to  the  library  of  the  home  West  India 
merchant,  as  well  as  that  of  the  resident  planter. "—Lit. 
Gazette. 

"  This  work  may  be  considered  one  of  the  most  valua- 
ble books  lhat   has  yet    issued   from  the   press   connected 

with  colonial  interests;  indeed,  we  know  of  no  greatsa 

service  we  could   render  West  India  proprietors,  than   in 

recommending  the  study  of  Mr.  Porter's  volume 
tator. 


TREATISE  ON  CLOCK  AND  WATCxfl 
MAKING  Theoretical  and  Practical.  By 
Thomas  Rkid,  Edinburgh,  Honorary  .Mem- 
ber of  tin'   Worshipful    Company  of  Clock- 

Makere,  London.     Royal  Bvo,     Illustrated 
by  numerous  Plata 


THE 

NATIONAL    SCHOOL    MANUAL: 

A 

REGULAR  AND  CONNECTED  COURSE  OF  ELEMENTARY  STUDIES, 

EMBRACING 

THE  NECESSARY  AND  USEFUL  BRANCHES  OF  A  COMMON  EDUCATION. 


IN  FOUR  PARTS,  WITH  A  QUARTO  ATLAS. 


COMPILED  FROM  THE  LATEST  AND  MOST  APPROVED  AUTHORS, 

BY  M.  R.  BARTLETT. 


The  plan  of  this  work  was  the  suggestion  of  the  late 
Governor  Clinton,  whose  zeal  and  efforts  in  the  cause 
of  our  Public  Schools,  will  be  cherished  with  grateful 
remembrance  to  the  latest  posterity ;  and  this  work,  so 
far  as  it  had  advanced,  up  to  the  time  of  his  lamented 
death,  received  his  favorable  regard  and  patronage. 

The  object  of  the  National  School  Manual,  is  to 
furnish  a  System  of  instruction,  for  a  thorough  English 
education,  in  a  plain,  practical,  and  progressive  Series 
of  Lessons,  collaterally  arranged. 

It  is  believed  that  the  plan  of  this  work  is  sufficiently 
wide  and  comprehensive  for  all  the  purposes  of  a  good 
English  Education,  and  that  it  is  capable  of  advancing 
the  pupil  much  faster  in  his  studies,  and  to  much  higher 
attainments  in  the  useful  sciences,  than  is  possible  in 
the  present  mode,  with  the  help  of  the  best  teachers. 

The  practical  results  of  a  general  adoption  of  the 
National  School  Manual  will  be : 

1st.  To  introduce  system,  uniformity  and  order  into 
our  Schools.  2d.  To  define  and  regulate  the  duties  of 
teachers,  and  give  them  the  means  of  being  more  too 
rough,  precise,  and  useful.  3d.  To  present  to  the  opening 
minds  of  pupils,  the  various  subjects  of  human  science, 
in  a  clear  and  lucid  manner,  and  with  all  the  advan- 
tages of  natural  order,  and  philosophical  arrangement, 
adapted  to  the  progress  of  knowledge:  and,  4th.  To 
Parents  and  Guardians,  exemption  from  the  vexation 
and  expense  of  changing  the  whole  catalogue  of  School 
Books,  and  the  whole  course  of  studies,  with  every 
change  of  School  or  Teacher — a  thing  of  very  frequent 
occurrence  in  our  Country  Schools.  As  to  the  saving 
of  expense  in  the  article  of  School  Books,  the  entire 
cost  of  the  Common  School  Manual,  embracing  the 
Primer  and  the  Four  Parts,  of  upwards  of  1500  pages, 
for  the  whole  course  of  a  good  English  education,  and  an 
Atlas  of  20  maps,  is  between  three  and  four  dollars. 

From  the  Teachers  of  Public  Schools  in  the  city  of  New- 
York. 
We  have  examined  the  National  School  Manual,  and 
are  pleased  with  the  plan.  From  our  knowledge  of  the 
various  systems  pursued  in  the  country  schools,  many 
of  which,  upon  the  change  of  teachers,  serve  rather  to 
retard,  than  advance,  the  pupil,  we  do  not  hesitate  to 
recommend  the  Manual,  as  having  not  only  a  tendency 
to  uniformity  and  order,  but  also  to  save  expense,  the 
complaint  of  which  is  without  parallel. 

LOYD  D    WINDSOR. 
Teacher  of  Public  School,  No.  1. 

JOSEPH  BELDEN, 
Teacher  of  Public  School,  No.  11. 
A.  DE  MONTFREDY. 
Februarys,  1830.  Teacher  of  Public  School,  No.  10. 

From  the  Rev.  James  Carnalian,  President  of  Princeton 
College. 

Havine  pxamined  the  gpneral  plan  of  the  1st,  2d,  and 
3d  parts  of  the  "  National  School  Manual,"  and  hav- 
ing also  taken  a  cursory  view  of  some  of  the  details,  I 
am  satisfied  that  it  is  a  work  of  no  common  merit. 

The  evils  which  this  work  proposes  to  remedy  are 
great  and  generally  felt  by  parents  and  instructors. 
The  expense  of  books,  according  to  the  course  hereto- 
fore  pursued,  is  a  very  serious  inconvenience;  and  the 
loss  of  time  and  labor  arising  from  the  want  of  a  con- 
nected series  of  instruction  adapted  to  the  capacities 
of  children  and  youth,  is  a  consideration  of  vast  mo- 
ment. 

Comparatively  few  instructors  are  competent  to  select. 
from  the  great  number  of  books  now  used  in  common 
schools,  those  adapted  to  the  improving  capacities  of 
their  pupils.     If  a  book,  which  he  cannot  understand, 


be  put  into  the  hands  of  a  pupil,  he  will  lose  his  time, 
and  what  is  worse,  he  will  probably  contract  a  disgust 
for  learning.  The  great  art  of  teaching  consists  in 
beginning  with  the  simplest  elements,  aud  advancing 
gradually  to  things  more  difficult  as  the  capacity  of  ac- 
quiring  knowledge  expands,  presenting  something  new 
to  arrest  the  attention  and  to  exercise  the  ingenuity 
of  the  pupil.  To  answer  these  ends,  the  work  of  Mr. 
Bartlett  seems  to  me  well  suited.  If  these  small  vol- 
umes be  thoroughly  studied,  I  am  persuaded  that  the 
pupil  will  be  better  prepared  to  transact  the  business  of 
life,  and  by  his  own  exertions  to  improve  himself  after 
he  leaves  school,  than  if  he  had  spent  twice  the  time 
under  an  ill-arranged  system  of  instruction. 

It  will,  doubtless,  be  difficult  to  introduce  a  uniform 
system  of  instruction  into  our  common  schools  ;  yet 
the  object  is  so  desirable,  that  it  deserves  a  vigorous 
and  persevering  effort;  and  I  indulge  the  hope  that  the 
day  is  not  far  distant,  when  the  "  National  School  Man- 
ual," improved  and  enlarged  by  its  able  and  experienced 
author,  will  be  very  generally  adopted. 

JAMES  CARNAHAN. 

Nassau  Hall,  April  27,  1832. 


From  the  Rev.  Charles  S.  Stewart,  Chaplain  in  the  United 
States  Navy— Author  of  a  Journal  of  Voyages  to  the 
Pacific,  fyc.  fyc. 

I  have  examined  with  much  care,  and  great  satisfac- 
tion, the  "National  School  Manual,"  compiled  by 
M.  R.  Bartlett.  The  opinion  I  have  formed  of  its  merits, 
is  of  little  importance,  after  the  numerous  and  highly 
respectable  testimonials  to  its  value  already  in  your 
possession. 

A  work  of  this  kind  has  long  been  a  desideratum  in 
the  economy  of  our  public  schools,  and  I  am  persuaded 
that  the  advantages  which  this  compilation  is  calculated 
to  secure  to  pupils,  teachers,  and  parents  need  only  to 
be  appreciated  to  secure  its  introduction  throughout  our 
country.  It  will  be  found  on  trial.  I  think,  greatly  to 
aid  the  instructor  in  his  arduous  service,  while  the  pupil 
cannot  fail,  in  the  use  of  it,  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  to 
make  a  more  rapid  and  understanding  progress  than  by 
the  method  now  generally  pursued.  To  teacher  and 
scholar  the  importance  and  value  of  the  system,  I  doubt 
not,  would  be  fully  shown  after  a  very  brief  trial,  while 
the  parent  and  guardian  would  soon  learn  its  advantage 
in  an  exemption  from  the  heavy  tax  now  imposed  on 
them  by  a  constant  change  of  books. 

I  should  be  happy  to  see  the  Manual  in  every  common 
school  in  the  Union,  from  the  conviction  that  the  best 
interests  of  education  would  be  promoted  by  it. 

(Signed)  CHAS.  SA.ML.  STEWART. 

Chaplain  U.  S.  Navy. 

New- York,  March  30,  1832. 


I  have  examined  with  rare  and  a  hith  degree  of  in- 
terest the  work  called  the  "  National  School  Manual." 
by  Air.  M.  R.  Bartlett,  and  am  so  well  satisfied  with  its 
merits,  and  that  it  will  eventually  be  adopted  in  all  our 
common  schools,  to  the  exclusion  of  every  other  work 
of  the  kind  now  in  use,  that  I  feel  authorized  to  exert 
my  influence  to  have  the  work  introduced  forthwith 
into  mv  school. 

JAS.  W.  FAIRCHILD, 
Principal  of  the  Hudson  Academv. 

Hudson,  Jan.  23,  1832. 


The  Publishers  have  similar  letters  from  fifty  or 
sixty  Teachers  of  the  highest  respectability. 


VI 
Eh 

-y 


o 


< 

s 

o 
o 

VI 

O 


— i  7i  ."•:  -i«  o  — 


THE  PEOPLE'S  LIBRARY. 


'  The  editors  and  publishers  should  receive  the  thanks  of  the  present  generation,  and  the  gratitude  of 
posterity,  for  being  the  first  to  prepare  in  this  language  what  deserves  to  be  entitled  not  the  ENCYCLO- 
PAEDIA AMERICANA,  but  the  people's  library." — N.  Y.  Courier  and  Enquirer. 


Just  Published,  by  Carey,  Lea,  <5f  Blanchard, 
nd  sold  in  Philadelphia  by  E.  L.  Carey  Hf  A.  Hart ;  in  New  York  by  G.  d>  C  d>  H.  Carvill ;  in  Boston 
barter  fy  Hendte  :  in  Baltimore  by  E.J.Coale,&  W.tyJ.Neal;  in  Washington  by  Thompson  d>  llomans ; 
ichmond  by  J.  H.  Nash ;  in  Savannah  by  W. '/'.  Williams;  in  Charleston  by  \V.  H.  Berrett ;  inNcw-Orleans 


ENCYCLOPEDIA  AMERICANA: 

A 

POPULAR  DICTIONARY 

OF 

ARTS,  SCIENCES,  LITERATURE,  HISTORY,  AND  POLITICS, 

BROCGHT   DOWN  TO   THE  PRESENT    TIME,   AND    INCLUDING   A   COPIOUS   COLLECTION   OF  ORIGINAL  ARTICLES  IK 

AMERICAN  BIOGRAPHY: 

On  the  basis  of  the  Seventh  Edition  of  the  German 

CONVERSATIONS-LEXICON. 


Edited  by  FRANCIS  LIEBER, 

ASSISTED  BY 

EDWARD  WIGGLESWORTH  and  T.  G.  BRADFORD,  EsdRS. 


IN  THIRTEEN  LARGE  VOLUMES,  OCTAVO,  PRICE  TO  SUBSCRIBERS,  BOUND  IN  CLOTH, 
TWO  DOLLARS  AND  A  HALF  EACH. 

EACH   VOLUME    CONTAINS    BETWEEN    600    AND    700   PAGES. 


"THE  WORLD-RENOWNED  CONVERSATIONS- 
LEXICON."—  Edinburgh  Review. 

"  To  supersede  cumbrous  Encyclopedias,  and  put  within 
the  reach  of  the  poorest  man,  a  complete  library,  equal  to 
about  forty  or  fifty  good-sized  octavos,  embracing  every 
possible  subject  of  interest  to  the  number  of  20,000  in  all — 
provided  he  can  spare  either  from  his  earnings  or  his  ex- 
travagancies, twenty  cents  a  week,  for  three  years,  a  library 
so  contrived,  as  to  be  equally  suited  to  the  learned  and 
the  unlearned, — the  mechanic — the  merchant,  and  the  pro- 
fessional man." — JV.  Y.  Courier  and  Inquirer. 

"  The  reputation  of  this  valuable  work  has  augmented 
with  eacli  volume;  and  if  the  unanimous  opinion  of  the 
press,  uttered  from  all  quarters,  be  true,  which  in  this 
instance  happens  to  be  the  case,  it  is  indeed  one  of  the 
best  of  publications.  It  should  be  in  the  possession  of 
every  intelligent  man,  as  it  is  a  library  in  itself,  compris- 
ing an  immense  mass  of  lore  upon  almost  every  possible 
subject,  and  in  the  cheapest  possible  form." — JV.  1".  Mirror. 

"  Witnesses  from  every  part  of  the  country  concurred 
in  declaring  that  the  Encyclopedia  Americana  was  in  a 
fair  way  to  degrade  the  dignity  of  learning,  and  especially 
the  learning  of  Encyclopedias,  by  making  it  too  cheap — 
that  the  multitudes  of  all  classes  were  infatuated  with  it 
in  saying  in  so  many  words  from  the  highest  to  the  low- 
est '  the  more  we  see  of  the  work  the  better  we  li>.e  it.'  " 
— JV".  Y.  Courted  and  Inquirer. 

"  The  articles  in  the  present  volume  appear  to  us  to 
evince  the  same  ability  and  research  which  gained  so 
favorable  a  reception  for  the  work  at  its  commencement. 
The  Appendix  to  the  volume  now  before  us,  containing  an 
account  of  the  Indian  Languages  of  America,  must  prove 
highly  interesting  to  the  reader  in  this  country;  and  it  is 
at  once  remarkable  as  a  specimen  of  history  and  philology. 
The  work  altogether,  we  may  again  be  permitted  to  ob- 
serve, reflects  distinguished  credit  upon  the  literary  and 
scientific  character,  as  well  as  the  scholarship  of  our 
country." — Charleston  Courier. 

"  The  copious  information  which  this  work  affords  on 
American  subjects,  fully  justifies  its  title  of  an  American 
Dictionary;  while  at  the  same  time  the  extent,  variety, 
and  felicitous  disposition  of  its  topics,  make  it  the  most 
convenient  and  satisfactory  Encyclopedia  that  we  have 
ever  seen." — National  Journal. 

"  If  the  succeeding  volumes  shall  equal  in  merit  the 
one  before  us,  we  may  confidently  anticipate  for  the  work 
a  reputation  and  usefulness  which  ought  to  secure  for  it 
the  most  flattering  encouragement  and  patronage." — Fed- 
eral Gazette. 

"  A  compendious  library,  and  invaluable  book  of  refer- 
ence."— JV.  Y.  American. 


"  The  variety  of  topics  is  of  course  vast,  and  they  are 
treated  in  a  manner  which  is  at  once  so  full  of  informa- 
tion and  so  interesting,  that  the  work,  instead  of  being 
merely  referred  to,  might  be  regularly  perused  with  as 
much  pleasure  as  profit." — Baltimore  American. 

"  We  view  it  as  a  publication  worthy  of  the  age  and  of 
the  country,  and  cannot  but  believe  the  discrimination  of 
our  countrymen  will  sustain  the  publishers,  and  well  re- 
ward them  for  this  contribution  to  American  Literature." 
— Baltimore  Patriot. 

"  It  reflects  the  greatest  credit  on  those  who  have  been 
concerned  in  its  production,  and  promises,  in  a  variety  of 
respects,  to  be  the  best  as  well  as  the  most  compendious 
dictionary  of  the  arts,  sciences,  history,  politics,  biogra- 
phy, Sec.  which  has  yet  been  compiled.  The  style  of  the 
portion  we  have  read  is  terse  and  perspicuous ;  and  it  is 
really  curious  how  so  much  scieptific  and  other  informa- 
tion could  have  been  so  satisfactorily  communicated  in 
such  brief  limits."— JV.  Y.  Evening  Post. 

"Those  who  can,  by  any  honest  modes  of  economy, 
reserve  the  sum  of  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents  quarterly, 
from  their  family  expenses,  may  pay  for  this  work  as  fast 
as  it  is  published",  and  we  confidently  believe  that  they 
will  find  at  the  end  that  they  never  purchased  so  much 
general,  practical,  useful  information  at  so  cheap  a  rate 
— Journal  of  Education. 

"  If  the  encouragement  to  the  publishers  should  corres- 
pond with  the  testimony  in  favor  of  their  enterprise,  and 
the  beautiful  and  faithful  style  of  its  execution,  the  hazard 
of  the  undertaking,  bold  as  it  was.  will  be  well  compen- 
sated ;  and  our  libraries  will  be  enriched  by  the  most  gene 
rally  useful  encyclopedic  dictionary  that  has  been  offered 
to  the  readers  of  the  English  language.  Full  enough  for 
the  general  scholar,  and  plain  enough  for  every  capacity, 
it  is  far  more  convenient,  in  every  view  and  form,  than 
its  more  expensive  and  ponderous  predecessors." — Ameri- 
can Farmer. 

"The  hish  reputation  of  the  contributors  to  this  work, 
will  not  fail  to  insure  it  a  favorable  reception,  and  its 
own  merits  will  do  the  rest."— Silliman's  Journ. 

"  The  Encylopredia  Americana  is  a  prodigious  improve- 
ment upon  all  that  has  gone  before  it;  a  thing  for  our 
country,  as  well  as  the  country  that  gave  it  birth,  to  be 
proud  of;  an  inexhaustible  treasury  of  useful,  pleasant, 
and  familiar  learning  on  every  possible  subject,  so  arranged 
as  to  be  speedily  and  safely  referred  to  on  emergency,  as 
well  as  on  deliberate  inquiry;  and  better  still,  adapted  to 
the  understanding,  and  put  within  the  reach  of  the  mul- 
titude. *  *  *  The  Encyclopaedia  Americana  is  a  work 
without  which  no  library  worthy  of  the  name  can  hare- 
after  be  made  up." — Yanlcee. 


DR.  LAIiDNSB'S 
CABINET     CYCLOPiEDIA. 


VOLUMES  PUBLISHED. 

I.  II.— HISTORY  of  SCOTLAM).    By  Sin  Walter 

Scott. 
III.  VI— HISTORY  or  ENGLAND.    By  Sir  James 

Mackintosh.    In  8  Vols.    Vols.  I.  and  II. 
IV.^-OUTLLMES  ok  HISTORY. 
V— HISTORY  or  tiik  NETHERLANDS.  By  T.  C. 

(  iltATTAV,  Ksij. 

Ml.  Mil.  £IL— HISTORY  of  FRANCE.  By  Eyre 
Evans  Cbowe.     In  3  Vols.  , 

EX.— MECHANICS.  By  Capt.  Kater  and  Dr. 
Lardnhc. 

X.— A  PRELIMINARY  DISCOURSE  on  thi  OB- 
JECTS, ADVANTAGES,  and  PLEASURES  of 
hi:  ST1  DY  of  NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY.  In 
1  Vol.    %  J.  F.  VV.  Hersciiel,  Esq. 

XI.— IWXiRAPHY  of  EMINENT  BRITISH 
STATESMEN. 

KIIL— HYDROSTATICS  and  PNEUMATICS.  By 
I  Ml.  Lardner. 

XIV.— HISTORY  of  the  PROGRESS  and  PRE- 
SENT  SITUATION  of  the  SILK  MANUFAC- 
TURE. 

X\'.— HISTORY  of  the  ITALIAN  REPUBLICS. 
By  J.  C.  L.  Sishondi. 

XVI.— HISTORY  of  the  PROGRESS  and  PRE- 
SENT STATE  of  the  MANUFACTURE  of 
PORCELAIN  and  GLASS. 

XVII.  XVIII.  XX.  XXI.  XXII—  HISTORY  of  SPAIN 
and  PORTUGAL.    5  vols. 

XIX.— HISTORY  of  SWITZERLAND. 

XXIII.— HISTORY  of  ENGLAND.  By  Sir  James 
Mackintosh.    Vol.  III. 


Volumes   in   immediate   preparation. 

The  BRITISH  ADMIRALS,  with  an  introducto- 
ry View  of  the  NAVAL  HISTORY  of  ENG- 
LAND. By  Robert  Southey,  LL.  D„  Poet  Laure- 
ate.    Nearly  ready. 

A  HISTORY  of  IRELAND,  to  the  UNION.  In  2 
Vols.     By  T.  Moore,  Esq. 

A  PRELIMINARY  DISCOURSE  on  the  USEFUL 
ARTS  and  MANUFACTURES.  By  the  Baron 
Charles  Dupin,  Member  of  the  Institute  of  France 
and  of  tlie  Chamber  of  Deputies. 

A  HISTORY  OP  the  MOORS.  In  3  vols.  By  Rob- 
ert Southey,  Esq. 

LIVES  of  the  MOST  EMINENT  LITERARY 
MEN  of  ALL  NATIONS.  In  8  vols.  By  Scott, 
Southey,  Moore,  Mackintosh,  Montgomery, 
Cunningham,  and  nil  the  principal  Eilerary  and 
Scientific  Contributors  lo  the  Cyclopaedia. 

GEOGRAPHY      In  1  vols.     By  W.  Cooley,  Esq. 

author  of  the  "  History  of  Maritime  Discovery." 

LIVES  of  the  MOST  DISTINGUISHED  BRITISH 
NAVAL  COMMANDERS.    By  R.  Southey,  Esq. 

I.l\  I'.Soiriii:  MOST  DISTINGUISHED  BRITISH 
MILITARY  COMMANDERS.    Bj  theRev.G.R 

<  iLUO. 

Tm.  HISTORY  of  GREECE     In  3  vols.    By  the 

Rev.  C. Tiinti.wAi.i.. 

LIM'.s  or  EMINENT   BRITISH  ARTISTS.    By 

W    ">    OrLEY,  Ev|.  and  'I'.  I'liii.i.irs,  R.  A.  Professor 

of  Painting  to  the  Royal  Acujemj 

1  TREATISE  on  ELECTRICITY  ind  MAGNET 
ISM     Bj   M    Biot,  Member  of  the  French  Inetu 

lute. 


"  BOOKS  THAT  TOO  MAY  CARRY  TO  THE  FIRE,  AND  HOLD 
READILY  IN  YOUR  HAND.  ARE  THE  MOST  USEFUL  AFTER 
ALL.  A  MAN  WILL  OFTEN  LOOK  AT  THEM,  AND  BE 
TEMPTED  TO  GO  ON,  WHEN  HE  WOULD  HAVE  BEEN 
FRIGHTENED  AT  BOOKS  OF  A  LARGER  SIZE,  AND  OF  A 
MORE  erudite  appearance." — Dr.  Johnson. 

"We  advisedly  call  the  Cabinet  Cyclopedia  a  great 
undertaking,  because  we  consider,  that  in  its  effects  on 
the  loin-  anil  habits  of  thought  of  what  is  known  by  the 
phrase,  the  reading  public,'  it  will  be,  if  carried  through 
in  the  spirit  of  its  projection  and  commencement,  one  of 
the  most  invaluable  productions  of  modern  literature.  *  * 

"  Hut  these  advantages,  eminent  as  they  undoubtedly 
arc,  are  not  the  sole  nor  the  chief  recommendations  of 
the  Cabinet  Cyclopaedia.  Neither  is  it  on  the  extreme 
cheapness  of  the  publication,  nor  the  federal  independence 
— if  we  may  so  speak — of  its  several  volumes,  that  we 
rest  our  prediction  of  its  influence  on  the  tone  of  think 
ing  of  the  present,  and  on  the  literature  of  the  next  gen 
eration — but  on  the  promise,  amounting  almost  to  a  moral 
certainty,  of  the  great  excem  nee  ofitsi  xecution.  A  mul- 
titude Of  persons  eminent  in  literature  and  science  in  the 
United  Kingdom  are  employed  id  tins  undertaking;  and 
indeed,  no  others  should  \»-  employed  in  it :  for  it  i>  a  truth 
that  the  profound  and  practised  writer  alone  is  capable  of 
furnishing  a  '  popular  compendium.' 

"  What  parent  or  guardian  that  throws  hiscyo  over  the 
lis)  of  its  contributors  but  must  be  rejoiced  by  meeting 
thi  names  of  those  who  are  in  themselves  a  guarantee 
of  intellectual  and  moral  excellence?" — Literary  Gazette. 

"The  plan  of  the  work  appears  well  adapted  to  the  pur 
pose  it  is  proposed  to  fulfil— that  of  supplying  a  series  of 
publications,  embracing  the  whole  range  of  literature 
and  science,  in  a  popular  and  portable  form;  while  the 
excellence  of  the  execution  is  guarantied  by  the  judgment 
displayed  in  the  selection  of  writers.  The  list  of  authors 
employed  in  this  ambitious  undertaking  comprises  eomi 
of  the  most  eminent  men  of  the  present  age." — Atlas. 

"  The  Cyclopedia,  when  complete,  will  form  a  valuable 
work  of  reference,  as  well  as  a  most  entertaining  and  in- 
structive library.  It  is  an  essential  principle  in  every  pari 
of  it,  that  it  should  be  clear  and  easily  understood,  and 
that  an  attempt  should  everywhere  be  made  to  unite 
accurate  information  with  an  agreeable  manner  of  eon 
veying  it.  It  is  an  experiment  to  try  how  much  science 
may  be  taught  with  little  crabbed  or  technical  language, 
and  how  far  the  philosophical  and  poetical  qualities  of 
history  may  be  preserved  in  its  more  condensed  state.  It 
possesses  also  the  most  indispensable  of  all  the  qualities 
of  a  work  intended  for  general  instruction — that  of  cheap- 
ness. Whatever  the  plan  might  be,  it  was  evident  that 
the  grand  difficulty  of  Dr.  Lardner  was  to  unite  a  body 
of  writers  in  its  execution,  whose  character  or  works  af 
forded  the  most  probable  hope  that  they  were  fitted  Ebl  a 
task  of  which  the  peculiarity,  the  novelty,  and  even  the 
prevalent  relish  for  such  writings  greatly  enhance  the  dif- 
ticulty.  We  do  not  believe,  that  in  the  list  of  contribu- 
tors, there  is  one  name  of  which  the  enlightened  part  of 
the  public  would  desire  the  exclusion. 

"In  science,  the  list  is  not  less  promising.     The  names 

of  the  President,  Vice-Presidents,  and  most  distinguished 
fellows  of  the  Royal  Society,  are  contained  in  it  A 
treatise  on  astronomy,  by  Herscbel;  on  optics,  by  Brews 
ter;  ami  on  mechanics,  by  Lardner;  need  be  only  recom 
mended  by  the  subjects  and  the  writers,  An  eminent 
Prelate,  or  the  first  rank  in  science,  has  undertaken  a 
noble  subject  winch  happily  combines  philosophy  with 
religion.  Twelve  of  the  most  distinguished  naturalists 
of  the  age.  Fellows  of  the  Linnnan  ami  Zoological  Bo 
cieties,  are  preparing  a  course  of  natural  history,  others 
not  less  eminent  in  literature  ami  science,  w  hose  names  it 
is  not  needful  yet  to  mention,  have  shown  symptoms  of  an 
ambition  to  take  a  place  among  such  fellow-laborers."— 

'/'imrs. 

"  The  topics,  as  may  be  supposed,  are  both  judiciously 
selected  and  treated  with  ability.  To  general  readers 
and  as  part  of  a  family  library,  the  volumes  already  psb 

liahad  posses  great  recommendations.    For  the  external 

beauties  of  good  printing  and  paper  they  merit  equal  coin- 
inendalioii. " — Unit.  .Him man. 

"The   uniform  neatness  of  these  volume.",  their  very 

moderate  price,  and  the  quantity  of  information  which 

the]  contain,  drawn  from  the  best  and  moat  attractive 

have  given  them  deserved  celebrity,  and  no  one 

who  desires  to  possess  such  information,  should  hesitate 

■  moment  to  add  them  to  ins  library."    Pfcs\  tia-.rtte 

"  Tins  excellent  work  continues  to  Increase  in  public 

d  to  receive  fresh  accessions  ol  force  lo  its  corps 

of  contributors.  —lAt.  Oazettr. 


EDUCATION. 


LESSONS  on  THINGS,  intended  to  improve 
Children  in  the  Practice  of  Observation,  Re- 
flection and  Description,  on  the  System  of 
Pestalozzi,  edited  by  John  Frost,  A.  M. 
The    publishers    request   the   attention   of 
teachers,  school  committees,  and  all  who  are 
desirous  of  improving  the  methods  of  instruc- 
tion, to  this  work,  which  is  on  a  plan  hitherto 
unattempted  by  any  school-book  in  this  coun- 
try, and  which  has  been  attended  with  extra- 
ordinary success  in  England. 

The  following  remarks  on  the  work  are  ex- 
tracted from  the  "  Quarterly  Journal  of  Edu- 
cation." 

"  This  little  volume  is  a  'corrected  and  re-corrected'  edi- 
tion of  lessons  actually  given  to  children,  and,  therefore, 
possesses  a  value  to  which  no  hook  made  in  the  closet 
can  lay  claim,  being  the  result  of  actual  experiment. 
The  work  consists  of  a  number  of  lessons,  divided  into 
live  series ;  beginning  with  subjects  the  most  easy  and 
elementary,  it  gradually  increases  in  difficulty,  each  suc- 
cessive step  being  adapted  to  the  mind  of  the  child  as  it 
acquires  fresh  stores  of  knowledge. 

"  Every  part  of  these  lessons  is  interesting  to  the  child, 
both  on  account  of  the  active  operation  into  which  his 
own  mind  is  necessarily  called  by  the  manner  in  which 
the  lessons  are  given  ;  and  also  by  the  attractive  nature 
of  many  of  the  materials  which  form  the  subject  of  the 
lessons.  In  the  first  and  most  elementary  series,  the  pupil 
is  simply  taught  to  make  a  right  use  of  his  organs  of 
sense,  and  to  exercise  his  judgment  so  far  only  as  relates 
to  the  objects  about  him;  and  accordingly  the  matter 
brought  before  him  at  this  stage,  is  such  that  its  obvious 
properties  can  be  discovered  and  described  by  a  child  who 
has  acquired  a  tolerable  knowledge  of  his  mother  tongue." 

OUTLINES  of  HISTORY,  from  the  Earliest 
Records  to  the  Present  Time.  Prepared  for 
the  Use  of  Schools,  with  Questions,  by  John 
Frost,  A.  M. 

"  The  main  object  of  the  work  is,  by  giving  a  selection 
of  interesting  and  striking  facts  from  more  elaborate  his- 
tories, properly  and  carefully  arranged,  with  chronological 
tables,  to  render  the  study  of  general  history  less  dry  and 
repulsive  than  it  has  been  heretofore.  This,  we  think  is 
fully  accomplished.  Very  great  care  appears  to  have  been 
bestowed  on  the  selections,  and  in  arranging  the  chrono- 
logical tables,  as  well  ns  in  the  classification  of  the  his- 
torical matter  into  parts  and  chapters.  The  work  will 
sufficiently  recommend  itself  to  all  who  examine  it." — 
Sat.  Evening  Post. 

"To  concentrate  in  one  comparatively  small  volume,  a 
complete  epitome  of  the  entire  history  of  the  world,  an- 
cient and  modern,  so  treated  as  to  present  a  correct  image 
of  it,  would  seem  to  be  an  object  to  be  wished  for,  rather 
than  expected  ;  the  '  Outlines  of  History,'  however,  realize 
this  object."—  Asiatic  Journal. 

"We  consider  that  Mr.  F.  has  done  a  service  to  schools, 
by  the  time  and  labor  which  he  has  bestowed  upon  this 
work ;  the  marginal  dates  will  be  found  of  fxeat  service, 
but  the  chapters  of  questions  upon  the  text,  and  upon  the 
maps,  to  illustrate  the  geography  of  the  history,  will  es- 
pecially recommend  the  work  to  the  attention  of  teach- 
ers."—  U.  S.  Gazette. 

Philadelphia,  July  Wth,  1831. 
"  The  '  Outlines  of  History,'  I  consider  an  excellent 
class-book  of  general  history  for  the  use  of  schools.  The 
questions  added  by  Mr.  Frost,  are  a  most  valuable  auxili- 
ary for  the  teacher  as'well  as  the  pupil.  I  shall  use  the 
'Outlines'  in  my  school,  and  cordially  recommend  it  to 
parents  and  teachers.  S.  C.  WALKER." 

Philadelphia,  April  30«A,  1831. 
"  Dear  Sir, — I  have  just  received  a  copy  of  your  edition 
of  the  'Outlines  of  History.'  From  a  cursory  perusal,  I 
am  disposed  to  give  it  a  high  rank  as  a  school-book.  So 
well  satisfied  am  I  with  the  arrangement  and  execution 
of  the  work,  that  I  intend  to  put  it  immediately  into  the 
hands  of  a  class  in  my  own  school. 

"  Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 
"  MR-  John  Frost."  "LEVI  FLETCHER. 


FRENCH. 


BY  A.  BOLMAR. 


A  COLLECTION  of  COLLOQUIAL 
PHRASES  on  every  Topic  necessary  to  main- 
tain Conversation,  arranged  under  different 
heads,  with  numerous  remarks  on  the  peculiar 
pronunciation  and  use  of  various  words — the 
whole  so  disposed  as  considerably  to  facilitate 
the  acquisition  of  a  correct  pronunciation  of  J 
the  French.     By  A.  Bolmar.    One  vol.  18mo. 

A  SELECTION  of  ONE  HUNDRED 
PERRIN'S  FABLES,  accompanied  by  a  Key, 
containing  the  text,  a  literal  and  free  trans- 
lation, arranged  in  such  a  manner  as  to  point 
out  the  difference  between  the  French  and  the 
English  idiom,  also  a  figured  pronunciation  of 
the  French,  according  to  the  best  French  works 
extant  on  the  subject ;  the  whole  preceded  by 
a  short  treatise  on  the  sounds  of  the  French 
language,  compared  with  those  of  the  English. 

Les  AVENTURES  de  TELEMAQUE 
par  FENELON,  accompanied  by  a  Key  to 
the  first  eight  books ;  containing  like  the  Fa- 
bles— the  Text — a  Literal — and  Free  Trans- 
lation ;  intended  as  a  Sequel  to  the  Fables. 

The  expression  '  figured  pronunciation,'  is  above  em- 
ployed to  eipress  that  the  words  in  the  Key  to  the  French 
Fables  are  spelt  and  divided  as  they  are  pronounced.  It  is 
what  Walker  has  done  in  his  Critical  Pronouncing  Dic- 
tionary ;  for  instance,  he  indicates  the  pronunciation  of  the 
word  enough,  by  dividing  and  spelling  it  thus,  e-nuf.  In 
the  same  manner  I  indicate  the  pronunciation  of  the  word 
comptaient  thus,  konte.  As  the  understanding  of  the 
figured  pronunciation  of  Walker  requires  the  student  to 
be  acquainted  with  the  primitive  sounds  of  the  English  vow- 
els, he  must  likewise,  before  he  can  understand  the  figured 
pronunciation  of  the  French,  make  himself  acquainted  with 
the  20  primitive  sounds  of  the  French  vowels.  This  any 
intelligent  person  can  get  from  a  native,  or  from  anybody 
who  reads  French  well,  in  a  few  hours. 

A  COMPLETE  TREATISE  on  the  GEN- 
DERS of  FRENCH  NOUNS;  in  a  small 
pamphlet  of  fourteen  pages. 

This  little  work,  which  is  the  most  complete 
of  the  kind,  is  the  fruit  of  great  labor,  and  will 
prove  of  immense  service  to  every  learner. 

ALL  THE  FRENCH  VERBS,  both  REG- 
ULAR and  IRREGULAR,  in  a  small  volume. 

The  verbs  etre  to  be,  avoir  to  have,  parler  to  speak, 
finir  to  finish,  recevoir  to  receive,  veridre  to  sell,  se 
lever  to  rise,  se  bien  porter  to  be  well,  s'en  aller  to  go 
away,  are  here  all  conjugated  through — affirmatively 
— negatively — interrogatively — and  negatively  and  in- 
terrogatively^an  arrangement  which  will  greatly  fa- 
cilitate the  scholar  in  his  learning  the  French  verbs, 
and  which  will  save  the  master  the  trouble  of  explain- 
ing over  and  over  again  what  may  be  much  more 
easily  learned  from  book6,  thus  leaving  him  more  time 
to  give  his  pupil,  during  the  lesson,  that  instruction 
which  cannot  be  found  in  books,  but  which  must  be 
learned  from  a  master. 


NEUMAN'S  SPANISH  and  ENGLISH 
DICTIONARY.  New  Edition,  in  one  vol. 
16mo. 


(Ehcmffltrg,  Natural  ?l?tstor|)r  an)  fthilpsojihg. 


THE  CHEMISTRY  OP  THE  ARTS,  on  the 

basis  of  Gray's  Oprrntivc  Chemist,  i>.  inu 
au  Exhibition  of  the  Arts  and  Manufac- 
turcN  dependent  on  Chemical  Principles, 
-with  numerous  Ru<;ravingg,  (,j  ARTHUR 
In  PORTER,  M.  D.  late  Professor  of 
Chemistry,  &c.  In  the  University  of  Ver- 
mont!   In  Svo.    With  numerous  Platen 

The  popular  and  valuable  English  work  of  Mr. 
Gray,  which  forms  the  groundwork  of  the  present 
volume,  was  published  in  London  in  1829,  and  de- 
>  signed  to  exhibit  a  systematic  and  practical  view  of  the 
-his  Arts  and  Manufactures  which  involve  the 
ation  of  Chemical  Science.  The  author  himself, 
a  skilful,  manufacturing,  as  well  as  an  able,  scientific 
chemist,  enjoying  the  multiplied  advantages  afforded 
by  the  metropolis  of  the  greatest  manufacturing  nation 
on  earth,  was  eminently  qualified  for  so  arduous  an 
undertaking,  and  the  popularity  of  the  work  in  Eng- 
land, as  well  as  its  intrinsic  merits,  attest  the  fidelity 
and  success  with  which  it  has  been  executed.  In 
the  work  now  offered  to  the  American  public,  the 
practical  character  of  the  Operative  Chemist  has  been 
preserved,  and  much  extended  by  the  addition  of  a 
great  variety  of  original  matter,  by  numerous  correc- 
tions of  the  original  text,  and  the  adaptation  of  the 
whole  to  the  state  and  wants  of  the  Arts  and  Manu- 
factures of  the  United  States.  Among  the  most  con- 
siderable additions  will  be  found  full  and  extended 
treatises  on  the  Bleaching  of  Cotton  and  Linen,  on  the 
various  branches  of  Calico  Printing,  on  the  Manufac- 
ture of  the  Chloride  of  Lime,  or  Bleaching  Powder, 
and  numerous  Staple  Articles  used  in  the  Arts  of 
Dying,  Calico  Printing,  and  various  other  processes 
of  Manufacture,  such  as  the  Salts  of  Tin,  Lead,  Man- 
ganese, and  Antimony;  the  most  recent  Improve- 
ments on  the  Manufacture  of  the  Muriatic,  Nitric, 
and  Sulphuric  Acids,  the  Chromates  of  Potash,  the 
latest  information  on  the  comparative  Value  of  Dif- 
ferent Varieties  of  Fuel,  on  the  Construction  of 
Stoves,  Fire-Places,  and  Stoving  Rooms,  on  the  Ven- 
tilation of  Apartments,  &c.  &c.  The  leading  object 
has  been  to  improve  and  extend  the  practical  charac- 
ter  of  the  Operative  Chemist,  and  to  supply,  as  the 
publishers  flatter  themselves,  a  deficiency  which  is 
felt  by  every  artist  and  manufacturer,  whose  processes 
involve  the  principles  of  chemical  science,  the  waul 
of  a  Systematic  Work  which  should  embody  the  most 
recent  improvements  in  the  chemical  arts  and  manu- 
factures, whether  derived  from  the  researches  of  sci- 
entific men,  or  the  experiments  and  observations  of 
the  operative  manufacturer  and  artisans  themselves. 


CHEMICAL  M ANIPUIiATIOX.  Instruction 
to  Students  on  the  Methods  of  perform- 
ing Experiments  of  Demonstration  or 
Research,  with  accuracy  and  success.  lty 
MICHAEL  FARAOtY,  PI  It.  S.  First 
American,  from  the  second  London  cili- 
tion,  with  Additions  by  J.  K.  MITCHELL, 
M.  D. 

■  very  careful  perusal  of  this  work,  wp  strenu- 
ouily  recommend  it,  as  containing  lbs  must  complete  and 
excellent  instructions  for  conducting   chemical  experi 
There  are  few  persons,  however  greai  theii  ex 
who  may  not  gain  information  in  many  impor- 
tant particulars;  ami  rot  ourselves,  are  beg  must  unequiv- 
ocally to  acknowledge  that  we  have  acquired  man)  new 
ami  important  hints  on  subjects  "t  even  even  da 
opMeal  Mag. 
\  wirk  tntiurt',  exceedingly  wanted  in  the  labors 
I  d  to  the  pro*  lent  and  to  the  student, 
,-uifi  eminent!)  i  n  ditable  to  the  industry  and  skill  of  the 
author,  and  i"  the  kqooI  whence  it  emanstes."— Jbsr- 


GEOLOGICAL  MANUAL,  by  H.  T.  De  la 
Beche,  F.  R.  S.,  F.  G.  S.,  Mem.  Geol.  Soc. 
of  France.     In  8vo.    With  104  Wood  Cuts. 


ELEMENTS  of  PHYSICS,  or  NATURAL 
PHILOSOPHY,  GENERAL  and  MEDI- 
CAL, explained  independently  of  TECH- 
NICAL MATHEMATICS,  and  containing 
New  Disquisitions  and  Practical  Sugges- 
tions. By  Neill  Arnott,  M.  D.  Second 
American  from  the  fourth  London  edition, 
with  Additions  by  Isaac  Hays,  M.  D. 

"Dr.  Anion's  work  has  done  for  Physics  as  much  as 
Locke's  Essay  did  for  the  science  of  miiid."— London  Uni- 
versity Magazine. 

"  We  may  venture  to  predict  that  it  will  not  be  surpass- 
ed."— Times. 

"Dr.  A.  has  not  done  less  for  Physics  than  Blackstone 
did  for  the  Law.'' — Morning  Herald. 

"Dr.  A.  has  made  Natural  Philosophy  as  attractive  as 
Buffon  made  Natural  History." — French  Critic. 

"  A  work  of  the  highest  class  among  the  productions  ef 
mind." — Courier. 

"  We  regard  the  style  and  manner  as  quite  admirable." 
— Morning  Chronicle. 

"  As  interesting  as  novel-reading." — Jlthena-um. 

"  Never  did  philosophic  hand  wield  a  pen  more  calcu- 
lated to  win  men  to  be  wise  and  good."— Edinburgh  Ob- 
server. 

"  Of  this  valuable,  or  we  might  say,  invaluable  work, 
a  second  edition  has  been  speedily  demanded  by  the  pub- 
lic voice."— Lit.  Oaz. 

A  FLORA  of  NORTH  AMERICA,  with 
108  colored  Plates.  By  W.  P.  C.  Barton, 
M.  D.     In  3  vols.  4to. 

ARNOTT'S  ELEMENTS  of  PHYSICS. 
Vol.  II.  Part  1.    Containing  Light  and  Heat. 

"Dr.  Anion's  previous  volume  has  been  so  well 
ed,  that  it  has  ,-Jniost  banished  all  the  flimsy  productions 
called  popular,  which  falsely  pretend  to  strip  scii  oca  of 
its  mysterious  a : i , t  repulsive  asp  ct,  and  to  exhibit  a  hefty- 

day  apparel.  The  success  of  such  a  work  slums  m.ist 
clearly  that  it  is  plain,  but  Bound  knowledge  which  the 
public  want." — Monthly  Review. 

AMERICAN  ORNITHOLOGY,  or  NATU- 
RAL HISTORY  of  BIRDS,  inhabiting 
the  UNITED  STATES,  by  Chabub  l.v- 
cien  Bonaparte;  designed  as  a  cootinua> 
tion  of  Wilson's  Ornithology,  Vols.  I.  II. 
Ill  and  IV. 

*„*  Gentlemen  who  possess  Wilson,  and  are  der 
Birous  id'  rendering  the  work  complete,  are  informed 
thai  the  edition  of  this  work  is  very  amaD,  and  that 
but  a  very  limited  number  of  copies  remain  unsold 

A  DISCOURSE  on  the  REVOLUTIONS  of 
nit:  SURFACE  of  the  GLOBE  km»  ran 

('it  \m;i:s  nit  hi  nv  PBODUCED   in  THE   ANI- 
MAL KINGDOM.     By  Baroh  G.  Oovrr. 
Translated  from  the  French,  with  I 
dens  and  a  Glossary.  [nl2mo.  WithPlatea 

•  One  of  iln'  mosl  scientific  and  important,  yet  plain 

and  lucid  v.  01  KS,  wlncli  alum  tbS  SgS II'  re   i-  *  .is: 

md  to  the  reader  Interest  -i  in  the  study  of  nature,  and 
the  lights  which  reason  and  investigation  have  thrown 
upon  1 1«-  formation  oi  ins  u.m.  rsi 


CIRCULATION  DEPART*^ 
RETURN  JK^nUblSD^ (5 " 

honveuH- 

Renewals  ond  *  „.  64/ 


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fORM  NO.  DD6 


AUG  2    1*2 


U.  C.  BERKELEY  LIBRARIES 

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UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


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